LIONS  PULLING  DOWN  GIRAFFE. 


LAKE  NGAMI; 


OR, 

EXPLORATIONS  AND  DISCOVERIES 

DURING 

FOUR  YEARS’  WANDERINGS  IN  THE  WIIDS 


SOUTHWESTERN  AFRICA. 


BY 

CHARLES  JOHN  ANDERSSON. 


WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS, 

REPRESENTING  SPORTING  ADVENTURES,  SUBJECTS,  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY, 
DEVICES  FOR  DESTROYING  WILD  ANIMALS,  &C. 


NEW  YORK: 

HARPER  & BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS, 
FRANKLIN  SQUARE. 

1856. 


PREFACE. 


The  following  Narrative  of  Explorations  and  Dis- 
coveries during  four  years  in  the  wilds  of  the  south- 
western parts  of  Africa  contains  the  account  of  two  ex- 
peditions in  that  continent  between  the  years  1850  and 
1854.  In  the  first  of  these  journeys,  the  countries  of 
the  Damaras  (previously  all  but  unknown  in  Europe) 
and  of  the  Ovambo  (till  now  a terra  incognita)  were 
explored;  in  the  second,  the  newly-discovered  Lake 
Ngami  was  reached  by  a route  that  had  always  been 
deemed  impracticable.  It  is  more  than  probable  that 
this  route  (the  shortest  and  best)  will  be  adopted  as  the 
one  by  which  commerce  and  civilization  may  eventual- 
ly find  their  way  to  the  Lake  regions. 

The  first  journey  was  performed  in  company  with 
Mr.  Francis  Galton,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for  a 
work  on  “ Tropical  South  Africa on  the  second  the 
Author  was  alone,  and  altogether  dependent  on  his  own 
very  scanty  resources. 

It  was  suggested  to  the  Author,  as  regards  the  first 
journey,  that,  from  the  ground  having  been  preoccu- 
pied, it  would  be  best  for  him  to  commence  where  his 
friend  left  off.  There  was  some  reason  for  this ; but, 
on  mature  consideration,  he  deemed  it  desirable  to  start 
from  the  beginning,  otherwise  he  could  not  have  given 


IV 


PREFACE. 


a connected  and  detailed  account  of  the  regions  he  vis- 
ited. Moreover,  from  the  Author  having  remained  two 
years  longer  in  Africa  than  Mr.  Galton,  he  has  not  only 
been  enabled  to  ascertain  the  truth  respecting  much 
that  at  first  appeared  obscure  and  doubtful,  but  has  had 
many  opportunities  of  enlarging  the  stock  of  informa- 
tion acquired  by  himself  and  friend  when  together. 
Besides,  they  were  often  separated  for  long  periods, 
during  which  many  incidents  and  adventures  occurred 
to  the  Author  that  are  scarcely  alluded  to  in  “ Tropical 
South  Africa.”  And,  lastly,  the  impressions  received 
by  different  individuals,  even  under  similar  circum- 
stances, are  generally  found  to  vary  greatly,  which,  in 
itself,  would  be  a sufficient  reason  for  the  course  the 
Author  has  decided  on  pursuing. 

As  will  be  seen,  the  present  writer  has  not  only  de- 
scribed the  general  appearance  of  the  regions  he  visited, 
but  has  given  the  best  information  he  was  able  to  col- 
lect of  the  geological  features  of  the  country,  and  of  its 
probable  mineral  wealth  ; and,  slight  though  it  may  be, 
he  had  the  gratification  of  finding  that  the  hints  he 
threw  out  at  the  Cape  and  elsewhere  were  acted  upon, 
that  mining  companies  were  formed,  and  that  mining 
operations  are  now  carried  on  to  some  extent  in  regions 
heretofore  considered  as  utterly  worthless. 

The  Author  has  also  spoken  at  some  length  of  the 
religion,  and  manners,  and  customs  of  such  of  the  na- 
tive tribes  (previously  all  but  unknown  to  Europeans) 
visited  by  him  during  his  several  journeys.  He  also 
noted  many  of  their  superstitions,  for  too  much  atten- 
tion, as  has  been  truly  observed,  can  not  be  paid  to  the 
mythological  traditions  of  savages.  Considerable  dis- 


PREFACE. 


y 


cretion  is,  of  course,  needful  in  this  matter,  as,  if  every 
portion  were  to  be  literally  received,  we  might  be  led 
into  grievous  errors ; still,  by  attending  to  what  many 
might  call  absurd  superstitions,  we  not  only  attain  to  a 
knowledge  of  the  mental  tendencies  of  the  natives,  but 
are  made  acquainted  with  interesting  facts  touching  the 
geographical  distribution  of  men  and  inferior  animals. 

Since  the  different  members  constituting  the  brute 
creation  are  so  intimately  connected  with  the  economy 
of  man,  and  since  many  of  the  beasts  and  birds  indige- 
nous to  those  parts  of  Africa  visited  by  the  Author  are 
still  but  imperfectly  known,  he  has  thought  it  advisable 
to  enter  largely  into  their  habits,  &c.,  the  rather  as  nat- 
ural history  has  from  childhood  been  his  favorite  pur- 
suit, and  is  a subject  on  which  he  therefore  feels  con- 
versant ; and  though  part  of  what  he  has  stated  regard- 
ing the  rhinoceros,  the  hippopotamus,  the  koodoo,  the 
ostrich,  and  others  of  the  almost  incalculable  varieties 
of  animals  found  in  the  African  wilderness  may  be 
known  to  some  inquirers,  it  is  still  hoped  that  the  gen- 
eral reader  will  find  matter  he  has  not  previously  met 
with. 

The  larger  portion  of  the  beautiful  plates  to  be  found 
in  this  work  (faithfully  depicting  the  scenes  described) 
are  by  Mr.  Wolf— “ the  Landseer  of  animals  and  vege- 
tation,” to  quote  the  words  of  the  Earl  of  Ellesmere  in 
a note  which  his  lordship  did  me  the  honor  to  write  to 
me. 

The  Author  has  endeavored  in  the  following  pages 
faithfully,  and  in  plain  and  unassuming  language,  to 
record  his  experiences,  impressions,  feelings,  and  im- 
pulses, under  circumstances  often  peculiarly  trying. 


VI 


PREFACE. 


He  lays  claim  to  no  more  credit  than  may  attach  to  an 
earnest  desire  to  make  himself  useful  and  to  further 
the  cause  of  science. 

It  is  more  than  probable  that  his  career  as  an  ex- 
plorer and  pioneer  to  civilization  and  commerce  is  term- 
inated ; still  he  would  fain  hope  that  his  humble  exer- 
tions may  not  be  without  their  fruits. 

When  he  first  arrived  in  Africa,  he  generally  traveled 
on  foot  throughout  the  whole  of  the  day,  regardless  of 
heat,  and  almost  scorning  the  idea  of  riding  on  horse- 
back, or  using  any  other  mode  of  conveyance ; indeed, 
he  was  wont  to  vie  with  the  natives  in  endurance ; but 
now,  owing  to  the  severe  hardships  he  has  undergone, 
his  constitution  is  undermined,  and  the  foundation  of  a 
malady  has  been  laid  that  it  is  feared  he  will  carry  with 
him  to  the  day  of  his  death ; yet  such  is  the  perverse- 
ness of  human  nature  that,  did  circumstances  permit, 
he  would  return  to  this  life  of  trial  and  privation. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  Sweden. — Day-dreams. — Fraternal  Love. — A tempt- 
ing Offer. — Preparations  for  Journey  to  Africa. — Departure  from 
England. — Arrival  at  the  Cape. — Town  and  Inhabitants. — Table 
Mountain. — Curious  Legend. — Preparation  for  Journey  into  the 
Interior. — Departure  for  Walfisch  Bay Page  19 

CHAPTER  II. 

Arrival  at  Walfisch  Bay. — Scenery. — Harbor  described. — Want  of 
Water. — Capabilities  for  Trade. — Fish. — Wild-fowl. — Mirage.— 
Sand  Fountain.  — The  Bush- tick.  — The  Naras.  — Quadrupeds 
scarce.  — Meeting  the  Hottentots. — Their  filthy  Habits.  — The 
Alarum. — The  Turn-out. — Death  of  a Lion. — Arrival  at  Schepp- 
mansdorf. — The  Place  described. — Mr.  Bam. — Missionary  Life. — 
Ingratitude  of  Natives. — Missionary  Wagons 29 

CHAPTER  HI. 

Preparations  for  Journey. — Breaking-in  Oxen.  — Departure  from 
Scheppmansdorf. — An  infuriated  Ox. — The  Naarip  Plain.  — The 
scarlet  Flower. — The  Usab  Gorge. — The  Swakop  River. — Tracks 
of  Rhinoceros  seen. — Anecdote  of  that  Animal. — A Sunrise  in  the 
Tropics.— Sufferings  from  Heat  and  Thirst. — Arrival  at  Daviep : 
great  resort  of  Lions. — A Horse  and  Mule  killed  by  them. — The 
Author  goes  in  pursuit. — A troop  of  Lions. — Unsuccessful  Chase. — 
Mules’  flesh  palatable 44 

CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Gnoo  and  the  Gemsbok. — Pursuit  of  a Rhinoceros. — Venomous 
Fly. — Fruit  of  the  Acacia  nutritious. — Sun-stroke.— Crested  Parrot. 
— A Giraffe  shot. — Tjobis  Fountain. — Singular  Omelet. — Nutritious 
Gum. — Arrival  at  Richterfeldt. — Mr.  Rath  and  the  Missions. — The 
Damaras  : their  Persons,  Habits,  &c. — Lions  Troublesome. — Panic. 
— Horse  Sickness 56 


CONTENTS. 


Vlll 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Hans  Larsen. — His  Exploits. — He  joins  the  Expedition. — How  people 
travel  on  Ox-back. — Rhinoceros  Hunt. — Death  of  the  Beast. — 
u Look  before  you  Leap.” — Anecdote  proving  the  Truth  of  the  Prov- 
erb.— Hans  and  the  Lion. — The  Doctor  in  Difficulties. — Sufferings 
on  the  Naarip  Plain. — Arrival  at  Scheppmansdorf Page  68 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Return  to  Scheppmansdorf. — Training  Oxen  for  the  Yoke. — Sporting. 
— The  Flamingo. — The  Butcher-bird : curious  Superstition  regard- 
ing it. — Preparing  for  Journey. — Servants  described 76 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Departure  from  Scheppmansdorf.  — Cattle  refractory  at  starting. — 
Tineas. — Always  travel  by  Night.' — Rhinoceros  Hunt. — The  Au- 
thor in  danger  of  a second  Sun-stroke. — Reach  Onanis. — A Tribe 
of  Hill-Damaras  settled  there. — Singular  Manner  in  which  these 
People  smoke. — Effects  of  the  Weed. — The  Euphorbia  Candela- 
brum.— Remarkable  Properties  of  this  vegetable  Poison. — Guinea- 
fowl  : the  best  Manner  of  shooting  them. — Meet  a troop  of  Gi- 
raffes.— Tjobis  Fountain  again. — Attacked  by  Lions. — Providential 
Escape. — Arrival  at  Richterfeldt 83 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

A hearty  Welcome. — We  remove  the  Encampment. — An  Apparition. 
— Audacity  of  wild  Beasts. — Depriving  Lions  of  their  Prey. — Ex- 
cessive Heat. — Singular  effects  of  great  Heat. — Depart  for  Barmen. 
— Meet  a troop  of  Zebras.-— Their  flesh  not  equal  to  Venison. — The 
Missionary’s  Wall. — A sad  Catastrophe. — The  u Kameel-Doorn.” — 
Buxton  Fountain. — The  Scorpion. — Arrival  at  Barmen 95 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Barmen. — Thunder-storm  in  the  Tropics. — A Man  killed  by  Light- 
ning.— Warm  Spring. — Mr.  Hahn:  his  Missionary  Labor;  Seed 
sown  in  exceeding  stony  Ground. — The  Lake  Omanbonde.— Mr. 
Galton’s  Mission  of  Peace. — The  Author  meets  a Lion  by  the  way ; 
the  Beast  bolts. — Singular  Chase  of  a Gnoo. — “ Killing  two  Birds 
with  one  Stone.” — A Lion  Hunt. — The  Author  escapes  Death  by  a 
Miracle. — Consequences  of  shooting  on  a Sunday 106 


CONTENTS* 


IX 


CHAPTER  X* 

A Christmas  in  the  Desert. — Mr.  Galton’s  Return  from  the  Erongo 
Mountain. — He  passes  numerous  Villages. — Great  Drought;  the 
Natives  have  a Choice  of  two  Evils. — The  Hill-Damaras. — The  Da- 
maras*  a Pastoral  People. — The  whole  country  Public  Property. — 
Enormous  herds  of  Cattle. — They  are  as  destructive  as  Locusts  to 
the  Vegetation. — Departure  from  Richterfeldt. — The  Author  kills 
an  Oryx. — The  Oxen  refractory. — Danger  of  traversing  dry  Water- 
courses on  the  approach  of  the  Rainy  Season. — Message  from  the 
Robber-chief  Jonker. — Emeute  among  the  Servants. — Depart  for 
Schmelen’s  Hope..., , Page  119 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Schmelen’s  Hope. — Scenery. — Missionary  Station. — Raid  of  the  Na- 
maquas. — Ingratitude  of  the  Natives. — Jonker’s  Feud  with  Kahi- 
chene ; his  Barbarities  ; his  Treachery. — Mr.  Galton  departs  for 
Eikams. — Author’s  successful  sporting  Excursions. — He  captures  a 
young  Steinbok  and  a Koodoo.— They  are  easily  domesticated. — 
Hy senas  very  troublesome ; several  destroyed  by  Spring-guns. — The 
latter  described. — Visit  from  a Leopard  ; it  wounds  a Dog ; Chase 
and  Death  of  the  Leopard. — The  Caracal 126 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Wild-fowl  abundant. — The  Great  Bustard. — The  Termites. — Wild 
Bees. — Mushrooms.— The  Chief  Zwartbooi. — Return  of  Mr.  Galton. 
— He  makes  a Treaty  with  Jonker. — He  visits  Rehoboth. — Misdo- 
ings of  John  Waggoner  and  Gabriel. — Change  of  Servants. — Swarm 
of  Caterpillars. — A reconnoitring  Expedition. — Thunder-storm. — 
The  Omatako  Mountains. — Zebra-flesh  a God-send. — Tropical  Phe- 
nomenon.— The  Damaras  not  remarkable  for  Veracity. — Encamp 
in  an  Ant-hill. — Return  to  Schmelen’s  Hope. — Preparations  for  vis- 
iting Omanbonde 135 

. CHAPTER  XIII. 

Depart  from  Schmelen’s  Hope.  — Meeting  with  Kahiohene.  — Oxen 
Stolen. — Summary  Justice. — Superstition. — Meeting  an  old  Friend. 
— Singular  Custom.  — Gluttony  of  the  Damaras.  — How  they  eat 
Flesh  by  the  Yard  and  not  by  the  Pound.  — Superstitious  Cus- 
tom.— A nondescript  Animal. — The  Author  loses  his  Way. — Rav- 
ages of  the  Termites. — “Wait  a bit,  if  you  please.” — Magnificent 
Fountain.  — Remains  of  Damara  Villages.  — Horrors  of  War.  — 
A 2 


X 


CONTENTS. 


Meet  Bushmen. — Meet  Damaras. — Difficulties  encountered  by  Af- 
rican Travelers. — Reach  the  Lake  Omanbonde. — Cruel  Disappoint- 
ment  Page  146 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Omanbonde  visited  by  Hippopotami. — Vegetation,  &c.,  described. — 
Game  somewhat  scarce. — Combat  between  Elephant  and  Rhinoce- 
ros.— Advance  or  Retreat. — Favorable  reports  of  the  Ovambo-land. 
— Resolve  to  proceed  there. — Reconnoitre  the  Country. — Depart 
from  Omanbonde. ^-Author  shoots  a Giraffe.— Splendid  Mirage. — 
The  Fan-palm.—  The  Guide  absconds. — Commotion  among  the 
Natives. — Arrive  at  Okamabute. — Unsuccessful  Elephant-hunt. — 
Vegetation. — Accident  to  Wagon. — Obliged  to  proceed  on  Ox-back. 
— The  Party  go  astray. — Baboon  Fountain. — Meeting  with  the 
Ovambo  ; their  personal  Appearance,  &c. — Return  to  Encampment. 
— An  Elephant  killed. — Discover  a curious  Plant. — Immorality. 
— Reflections 162 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Depart  from  Okamabuti. — Visit  from  a Lion. — Amulets.  — Revisit 
Baboon  Fountain.— Otjikoto ; a wonderful  Freak  of  Nature ; Re- 
markable Cavern. — Natives  unacquainted  with  the  Art  of  Swim- 
ming.— Fish  abundant  in  Otjikoto ; frequented  by  immense  Flocks 
of  Doves. — Panic  of  the  Ovambo  on  seeing  Birds  shot  on  the  Wing. 
— Arrive  at  Omutjamatunda. — A greasy  Welcome.  — Ducks  and 
Grouse  numerous. — Author  finds  himself  somewhat  “ overdone.” — 
“ Salt-pans.” — All  “look  Blue.” — A second  Paradise. — Hospitable 
Reception. — Vegetation. — People  live  in  Patriarchal  Style. — Popu- 
lation.— Enormous  Hogs. — Arrive  at  the  Residence  of  the  redoubt- 
able Nangoro 178 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Visit  from  Nangoro. — His  extreme  Obesity. — One  must  be  fat  to  wear 
a Crown. — His  non-appreciation  of  Eloquence. — Singular  Effects 
of  Fireworks  on  the  Natives. — Cure  for  making  a wry  Face. — Ball 
at  the  Palace. — The  Ladies  very  attractive  and  very  loving.— Thei^ 
Dress,  Ornaments,  &c. — Honesty  of  the  Ovambo. — Kindnessitq^the 
Poor. — Love  of  Country. — Hospitality. — Delicate  manner  of  Eat- 
ing.— Loose  Morals. — Law  of  Succession. — Religion. — Houses. — 
Domestic  Animals. — Implements  of  Husbandry. — Manner  of  Tilling 
the  Ground. — Articles  of  Barter. — Metallurgy 190 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  River  Cunene. — The  Travelers  are  Prisoners  at  large. — Kingly 
Revenge. — Kingly  Liberality. — Depart  from  Ondonga. — Sufferings 
and  Consequences  resulting  from  Cold. — Return  to  Okamabuti. — 
Damara  Women  murdered  by  Bushmen. — Preparations  for  Jour- 
ney.— Obtain  Guides. — Depart  from  Tjopopa’s  Werft. — Game  abun- 
dant.— Author  and  three  Lions  stalk  Antelopes  in  Company. — Ex- 
traordinary Visitation. — The  Rhinoceros’s  Guardian  Angel. — The 
Textor  Erythrorhynchus.  — The  Amadina  Squamifrons  ; singular 
Construction  of  its  Nest. — Return  to  Barmen Page  204 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

The  Damaras. — Whence  they  came. — Their  Conquests. — The  Tide 
turns. — Damara-land  only  partially  inhabited.  — Climate. — Sea- 
sons.— Mythology.  — Religion.  — Superstitions. — Marriage. — Poly- 
gamy.— Children. — Circumcision. — Bury  their  Dead. — Way  they 
mourn. — Children  interred  alive. — Burial  of  the  Chief,  and  Super- 
stitions consequent  thereon. — Maladies. ^-Damaras  do  not  live  long; 
the  Cause  thereof. — Food. — Music  and  Dancing. — How  they  swear. 
— Power  of  the  Chieftain  limited. — Slothful  People. — Numerals. — 
Astronomy.— Domestic  Animals ; their  Diseases..... 214- 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Dispatch  a Messenger  to  Cape-Town. — Depart  from  Barmen. — Eik- 
hams. — Eyebrecht. — Depart  from  Eikhams. — Elephant  Fountain. — - 
Tunobis. — Enormous  quantities  of  Game. — Shooting  by  Night  at 
the  “ Skarm.” — The  Author  has  several  narrow  Escapes. — Checked 
in  attempt  to  reach  the  Ngami. — The  Party  set  out  on  their  Return. 
— Reach  Elephant  Fountain. — How  to  make  Soap. — Pitfalls. — A 
night  Adventure.^-Game  scarce. — Join  Hans. — The  Party  nearly 
poisoned. — Arrival  at  Walfisch  Bay. — A tub  Adventure. — Extraor- 
dinary Mortality  among  the  Fish. — Author  narrowly  escapes  Drown- 
ing.— Arrival  of  the  Missionary  Vessel. — Letters  from  Home. — Mr. 
Galton  returns  to  .Europe. — Reflections 229 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Capture  of  young  Ostriches. — Natural  History  of  the  Ostrich ; where 
found;  Description  of ; Size;  Weight;  Age;  Voice;  Strength; 
Speed ; Food ; Water  ; Breeding  ; Incubation  ; Cunning  ; Stones 
found  in  Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh. — Brain  in  request  among  the  Ro- 
mans.— Eggs  highly  prized. — Uses  of  Egg-shells. — Feathers  an  ar- 


XI 1 


CONTENTS. 


tide  of  Commerce. — Ostrich  Parasols. — The  Bird’s  destructive  Pro- 
pensities. — Habits.  — Resembles  Quadrqpeds.  — Domestication. — 


The  Chase.  — Snares.  — Ingenious  Device.  — Enemies  of  the 
Ostrich Page  247 

CHAPTER  XXI. 


Sudden  Floods. — J ohn  Allen’s  Sufferings. — Hans  and  the  Author  en- 
ter into  Partnership. — Young  Grass  injurious  to  Cattle. — Depart 
from  Walfisch  Bay. — Attractive  Scenery. — Troops  of  Lions. — Ex- 
traordinary Proceedings  of  Kites.— Flight  of  Butterflies.— Attach- 
ment of  Animals  to  one  another. — Arrival  at  Richterfeldt ; at  Bar- 
men.— Hans’s  narrow  Escape. — Self-possession. — Heavy  Rains. — 
Runaway  Ox ; he  tosses  the  Author. — Depart  from  Barmen. — Dif- 
ficulty of  crossing  Rivers. — Encounter  great  numbers  of  Oryxes.  264 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Oryx ; more  than  one  Species. — Where  found. — Probably  known 
in  Europe  previous  to  the  discovery  of  the  Passage  round  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope. — Description  of  the  Oryx. — Gregarious. — Speed. — 
Food. — Water  not  necessary  to  its  existence. — Will  face  the  Lion. 
— Formidable  Horns.  — Their  Use. — Flesh.  — The  Chase  of  this 
Animal.... 272 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Arrival  at  Eikhams. — Native  Dogs  ; cruelly  treated. — Jonker  Afrika- 
ner.— The  Author  visits  the  Red  Nation ; the  bad  Repute  of  these 
People. — The  Author  attacked  by  Ophthalmia. — The  embryo  Lo- 
cust.— The  “ flying”  Locust;  its  Devastations. — The  Locust-bird. 
— Arrival  at  Rehoboth  ; the  Place  described 277 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Return  to  Eikhams. — Ugly  Fall. — Splendid  Landscape. — Jonker’s  De- 
linquencies.— How  to  manage  the  Natives. — The  Ondara. — It  kills  a 
Man. — How  his  Comrade  revenges  him. — Medical  Properties  of  the 
Ondara. — The  Cockatrice. — The  Cobra  di  Capella. — The  Puff-ad- 
der.— The  Spitting  Snake. — The  Black  Snake. — Few  Deaths  caused 
by  Snakes. — Antidotes  for  Snake-bites. — Return  to  Rehoboth..  287 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

The  Author’s  Tent  takes  Fire. — He  loses  every  thing  but  his  Papers. 
— He  is  laid  on  a bed  of  Sickness. — Want  of  Medicine,  &c. — Re- 
flections.— Whole  Villages  infected  with  Fever.  — Abundance  of 


CONTENTS. 


xiii 

Game. — Extraordinary  Shot  at  an  Ostrich. — A Lion  breakfasts  on 
his  Wife. — Wonderful  shooting  Star. — Remarkable  Mirage. — Game 
and  Lions  plentiful.  — The  Ebony- tree.  — Arrival  at  Bethany,  a 
Missionary  Station. — The  Trouble  of  a large  Herd  of  Cattle. — A 
thirsty  Man’s  Cogitation. — Curious  Superstition. — The  Damara  Cat- 
tle described. — People  who  live  entirely  without  Water.-^Cross  the 
Orange  River. — Sterile  Country Page  299 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Great  Namaqua-land. — Its  Boundaries  and  Extent. — Its  Rivers. — Na- 
ture of  the  Country. — Vegetation  and  Climate. — Geological  Struc- 
ture.— Minerals. — “Topnaars”  and  “ Oerlams.” — Houses.  — My- 
thology and  Religion. — Tumuli.— Wonderful  Rock. — Curious  Le- 
gend of  the  Hare. — Coming  of  Age. — The  Witch-doctor. — Amu- 
lets.— Superstitions. — A Namaqua’s  notion  of  the  Sun. — Marriage. 
— Polygamy. — Children.  — Barbarous  Practice. — Longevity.— -Sin- 
gular Customs. — Ornaments. — Tattooing. — Arms. — Idle  Habits. — 
Pond  of  Amusements.  — Music  and  Dancing.  — Spirits. — Mead. — 
Domestic  Animals 311 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Leave  the  Orange  River. — Arrival  at  Komaggas.  — Gardening  and 
Agriculture.  — The  Author  starts  alone  for  the  Cape.  — Colony 
Horses. — Enmity  of  the  Boers  to  “ Britishers.” — Dutch  Salutation. 
— The  Author  must  have  been  at  Timbuctoo,  whether  or  no. — He 
arrives  at  Cape-Town. — Cuts  a sorry  figure. — Is  run  away  with. — 
A Feast  of  Oranges. — Ghost  Stories. — Cattle  Auction. — Hans  and 
John  Allen  proceed  to  Australia. — -Preparations  for  Journey  to  the 


Ngami. — Departure  from  the  Cape 325 

CHAPTER  XXVm. 

Arrival  at  Walfisch  Bay. — Atrocities  of  the  Namaquas. — Mr.  Hahn. — 
His  Philanthropy.  — Author  departs  for  Richterfeldt.  — Shoots  a 
Lion. — Lions  unusually  numerous. — Piet’s  Performances  with  Li- 


ons.— The  Lion  a Church-goer. — Barmen. — Eikhams. — Kamapyu’s 
mad  Doings  and  Consequences  thereof. — Kamapyu  is  wounded  by 
other  Shafts  than  Cupid’s. — Author  visits  Cornelius  ; here  he  meets 
Amral  and  a party  of  Griqua  Elephant-hunters. — Reach  Rehoboth. 
— Tan’s  Mountain. — Copper  Ore. — Jonathan  Afrika. — A Lion  sups 
on  a Goat, — A Lion  besieges  the  Cattle 339 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Dispatch  Cattle  to  the  Cape. — Terrible  Thunder-storm. — Trees  struck 
by  Lightning. — The  Nosop  River. — A Comet. — The  Author  nearly 
poisoned. — Some  of  the  Men  abscond ; they  return  to  their  Duty. — 
Babel-like  confusion  of  Tongues. — Game  abundant. — Author  shoots 
a Giraffe. — Meet  Bushmen. — Unsuccessful  Elephant-hunt. — Suffer- 
ings from  Hunger. — Tunobis. — Game  scarce. — Author  and  Steed 
entrapped. — Pitfalls. — The  Men  turn  sulky. — Preparations  for  de- 
parture from  Tunobis. — Vicious  Pack-oxen. — Consequences  of  ex- 
cessive Fatigue. — The  Jackal’s  handiwork. — Tracks  of  Elephants. 
— More  Pitfalls. — Loss  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  Lion  and  the  Swedish 
Cross. — Reach  Ghanze Page  351 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

Ghanze. — Spotted  Hyaena. — The  Rhinoceros. — Where  found. — Sev- 
eral Species. — Description  o£  Rhinoceros. — Size. — Appearance. — 
Age. — Strength.  — Speed.  — Food. — Water.  — The  Young. — Affec- 
tion.— Senses. — Disposition.  — Gregarious. — Indolence. — Domesti- 
cation.— Flesh. — Horns. — The  Chase. — Mr.  Os  well’s  Adventures 
with  Rhinoceroses. — A Crotchet. — Where  to  aim  at  the  Rhinoce- 
ros.— Does  not  bleed  externally  when  wounded. — Great  numbers 
slain  annually . « . . 368 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Departure  from  Ghanze. — Nectar  in  the  Desert. — Difficulty  in  finding 
Water. — Arrive  at  Abeghan. — Unsuccessful  Chase. — A “ Charm.” 
— How  to  make  the  undrinkable  drinkable.— An  Elephant  wounded 
and  killed. — Bold  and  courageous  Dog. — Kobis. — Author  seized 
with  a singular  Malady. — Messengers  dispatched  to  the  Chief  of  the 
Lake  Ngami. — A large  troop  of  Elephants. — Author  kills  a huge 
Male. — Lions  and  Giraffe. — Author’s  hair-breadth  Escapes : from  a 
black  Rhinoceros ; from  a white  Rhinoceros ; from  two  troops  of 
Elephants ; he  shoots  a couple  of  his  Adversaries. — Where  to  aim 
at  an  Elephant 386 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Timbo’s  Return  from  the  Lake ; his  Logic ; he  takes  the  Law  in  his 
own  Hands. — Calf  of  Author’s  Leg  goes  astray. — A troop  of  Ele- 
phants.— Author  is  charged  by  one  of  them,  and  narrowly  escapes 
Death. — He  shoots  a white  Rhinoceros. — He  disables  a black  Rhi- 
noceros.— He  is  charged  and  desperately  bruised  and  wounded  by 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


the  latter. — He  saves  the  Life  of  his  Attendant,  Kamapyu. — Author 
again  charged  by  the  Rhinoceros,  and  escapes  Destruction  only  bv 
the  opportune  Death  of  his  Antagonist. — Reflections. — He  starts  for 
the  Ngami Page  402 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Start  from  Kobis.  — Meet  Bechuanas.  — Ealse  Report.  — Wonderful 
Race  of  Men. — The  Baobob-tree. — The  Ngami. — Pirst  Impressions 
of  the  Lake. — Reflections. —Experience  some  Disappointment. — 
Reach  the  Zouga  River  and  encamp  near  it. — Interview  with  Chief 
Lecholetebe. — Information  refused. — Immoderate  Laughter. — Pres- 
ents to  the  Chief. — His  Covetousness. — His  Cruelty. — Formidable 
Difficulties. — Author  permitted  to  proceed  northward 413 

CHAPTER  XXXIY. 

The  Ngami. — When  discovered. — Its  various  Names. — Its  Size  and 
Form. — Great  Changes  in  its  Waters. — Singular  Phenomenon. — The 
Teoge  River. — The  Zouga  River. — The  Mukuru-Mukovanja  River. 
—Animals. — Birds. — Crocodiles. — Serpents. — Fish 423 

CHAPTER  XXXY. 

The  Batoana. — Government. — Eloquence. — Language. — Mythology. 
— Religion. — Superstition.  — The  Rain-maker.  — Polygamy. — Cir- 
cumcision.— Burial. — Disposition  of  the  Bechuanas. — Thievish  Pro- 
pensities.— Dress. — Great  Snuff-takers. — Smoking. — Occupations. 
• — Agriculture. — Commerce. — Hunting  and  Fishing 436 

CHAPTER  XXXYI. 

Departure  for  Libebe. — The  Canoe. — The  Lake. — Reach  the  Teoge. 
— Adventure  with  a Leche. — Luxurious  Yegetation. — Exuberance 
of  animal  Life. — Buffaloes. — The  Koodoo. — His  Haunts. — Pace. 
— Food. — Flesh. — Hide.— Disposition.  — Gregarious  Habits. — The 
Chase , 456 

CHAPTER  XXXYII. 

Tsetse  Fly. — Confined  to  particular  Spots. — Its  Size. — Its  Destructive- 
ness. — Fatal  to  Domestic  Animals.  — Symptoms  in  the  Ox  when 
bitten  by  the  Tsetse 468 

CHAPTER  XXXYHI. 

The  Crocodile. — An  Englishman  killed  by  one  of  these  Monsters. — 
The  Omoroanga  Yavarra  River. — Hardships. — Beautiful  Scenery. 
— Lecholetebe’s  Treachery.-— The  Reed-ferry 471 


xvi 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

The  Bayeye. — Their  Country ; Persons ; Language ; Disposition  ; Ly- 
ing and  Pilfering  Habits. — Polygamy  practiced  among  the  Bayeye. 
— Their  Houses;  Dress;  Ornaments;  Weapons;  Liquors;  Agri- 
culture ; Grain  ; Fruits  ; Granaries. — Hunting. — Fishing. — Nets. — 
Diseases. — The  Matsanyana. — The  Bavicko. — Libebe Page  476 

CHAPTER  XL. 

Departure  from  the  Bayeye  Werft. — The  Reed-raft. — The  Hippopota- 
mus.— Behemoth  or  Hippopotamus. — Where  found. — Two  Species. 
— Description  of  Hippopotamus. — Appearance. — Size. — Swims  like 
a Duck. — Food. — Destructive  Propensities  of  the  Animal. — Disposi- 
tion.— Sagacity. — Memory. — Gregarious  Habits. — Nocturnal  Habits. 
— Domestication. — Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — Ivory. — Medicinal  Vir- 
tues  485 

CHAPTER  XLI. 

The  Bayeye  harpoon  the  Hippopotamus. — The  Harpoon  described.— 
How  the  Chase  of  the  Hippopotamus  is  conducted  by  the  Bayeye. 
— How  it  was  conducted  by  the  ancient  Egyptians. — The  Spear 
used  by  them. — Ferocity  of  the  Hippopotamus.— Killed  by  Guns. — 
Frightful  Accident. — The  Downfall 495 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Return  to  the  Lake. — The  Author  starts  for  Namaqua-land  to  procure 
Wagons. — Night  Adventure  with  a Lion. — Death  of  the  Beast. — 
Sufferings  of  the  Author 506 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Pago 

LIONS  PULLING  DOWN  GIRAFFE To  face  Title. 

MALAY 24 

YIEW  OF  WALFISCH  BAY 30 

DAMARAS 63 

HILL-DAMARA  PIPE 89 

THE  LUCKY  ESCAPE 117 

SHOOTING-TRAP 132 

FAN-PALM * 167 

OYAMBO  PIPE 174 

OYAMBO  DAGGER  AND  SHEATH 174 

OYAMBO  BASKET  FOR  MERCHANDISE 174 

OTJIKOTO  FOUNTAIN 180 

INTERVIEW  WITH  KING  NANGORO 191 

OYAMBO  BEER-CUP  AND  BEER-SPOON 193 

OYAMBO  GUITAR 193 

OYAMBO 195 

OVAMBG  MEAT-DISH 197 

OYAMBO  DWELLING-HOUSE  AND  CORN-STORES 200 

VIEW  IN  ONDONGA 201 

OYAMBO  BLACKSMITHS  AT  WORK 203 

UNWELCOME  HUNTING  COMPANIONS 211 

DAMARA  GRAVE 224 

JONKER  AFRIKANER 232 

WILD  BOAR’S  HEAD 233 

COURSING  YOUNG  OSTRICHES 249 

ORYX  OR  GEMSBOK 273 

SKULL  OF  A BECHUANA  OX 308 

DACRE’S  PULPIT 3^3 

NEGRO  BOY 338 

PITFALLS 361 

HEADS  OF  RHINOCEROSES 371 

HORNS  OF  RHINOCEROS  OSWELLII 372 


XV111 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Page 

FOETUS  OF  RHINOCEROS  KEITLOA 376 

THE  APPROACH  OF  ELEPHANTS 398 

MORE  CLOSE  THAN  AGREEABLE 406 

DESPERATE  SITUATION 409 

NAKONG  AND  LECHE 432 

THE  BECHUANA  PICHO 438 

ASCENDING  THE  TEOGE 461 

TSETSE  FLY 468 

THE  REED-FERRY •. 476 

B AYE  YE 481 

MEDAL 493 

HIPPOPOTAMUS  HARPOON 496 

THE  REED-RAFT  AND  HARPOONERS 497 

THE  SPEAR 498 

EGYPTIANS  AND  HIPPOPOTAMUS 500 

THE  SPEAR 501 

THE  REEL 501 

THE  DOWNFALL 505 

AUTHOR  AND  STEED  BROKEN  DOWN 510 

SIGNAL  STATION  AT  CAPE-TOWN 511 


LAKE  NGAII, 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  Sweden. — Day-dreams. — Fraternal  Love. — A tempt- 
ing Offer. — Preparations  for  Journey  to  Africa. — Departure  from 
England. — Arrival  at  the  Cape. — Town  and  Inhabitants. — Table 
Mountain. — Curious  Legend. — Preparation  for  Journey  into  the 
Interior. — Departure  for  Walfisch  Bay. 

It  was  at  the  close  of  the  year  1849  that  I left  Gothen- 
bourg,  in  a sailing  vessel,  for  Hull,  at  which  place  I arrived 
in  safety,  after  a boisterous  and  somewhat  dangerous  pas- 
sage of  about  fourteen  days’  duration.  Though  a Swede  by 
birth,  I am  half  an  Englishman  by  parentage ; and  it  was 
with  pleasure  that  I visited,  for  the  second  time,  a country 
endeared  to  me  by  the  ties  of  kindred  and  the  remembrance 
of  former  hospitality. 

My  stay  in  England,  however,  was  intended  to  be  only  of 
Short  duration.  I carried  with  me  thither  a considerable 
collection  of  living  birds  and  quadrupeds,  together  with  nu- 
merous preserved  specimens  of  natural  history,  the  produce 
of  many  a long  hunting  excursion  amid  the  mountains,  lakes, 
and  forests  of  my  native  country.  These  I was  anxious  to 
dispose  of  in  England,  and  then  proceed  in  my  travels,  though 
to  what  quarter  of  the  globe  I had  scarcely  yet  determined. 

From  my  earliest  youth,  my  day-dreams  had  carried  me 
into  the  wilds  of  Africa.  Passionately  fond  of  traveling,  ac- 
customed from  my  childhood  to  field  sports  and  to  the  study 
of  natural  history,  and  (as  I hope  I may  say  with  truth)  de- 
sirous of  rendering  myself  useful  in  my  generation,  I earnest- 


20 


DAY-DREAMS. 


ly  longed  to  explore  some  portion  of  that  continent  where  all 
my  predilections  could  be  fully  indulged,  and  where  much 
still  remained  in  obscurity  which  might  advantageously  be 
brought  to  light.  The  expense,  however,  of  such  a journey 
was  to  me  an  insurmountable  obstacle.  I had,  therefore, 
long  since  given  up  all  idea  of  making  it,  and  had  turned  my 
thoughts  northward  to  Iceland,  a country  within  my  reach, 
and  where  I purposed  studying  the  habits  and  characteristics 
of  the  rarer  species  of  the  northern  fauna.  While  at  Hull, 
accordingly,  I consulted  some  whaling  captains  on  the  sub- 
ject of  my  enterprise,  and  had  almost  completed  my  arrange- 
ments, when  a visit  to  London,  on  some  private  affairs,  en- 
tirely changed  my  destination. 

Before  leaving  Hull  I witnessed  a striking  example  of  that 
attachment  toward  each  other  so  frequently  found  to  exist 
in  the  most  savage  animals.  By  the  kindness  of  the  secre- 
tary, I had  been  permitted  to  place  my  collection  in  the  gar- 
dens of  the  Hull  Zoological  Society,  ^kmong  others  were 
two  brown  bears — twins — somewhat  more  than  a year  old, 
and  playful  as  kittens  when  together.  Indeed,  no  greater 
punishment  could  be  inflicted  upon  these  beasts  than  to  dis- 
unite them  for  however  short  a time.  Still,  there  was  a 
marked  contrast  in  their  dispositions.  One  of  them  was 
good-tempered  and  gentle  as  a lamb,  while  the  other  fre- 
quently exhibited  signs  of  a sulky  and  treacherous  character. 
Tempted  by  an  offer  for  the  purchase  of  the  former  of  these 
animals,  I consented,  after  much  hesitation,  to  his  being  sep- 
arated from  his  brother. 

It  was  long  before  I forgave  myself  this  act.  On  the  fol- 
lowing day,  on  my  proceeding,  as  usual,  to  inspect  the  col- 
lection, one  of  the  keepers  ran  up  to  me  in  the  greatest  haste, 
exclaiming,  “Sir,  I am  glad  you  are  come,  for  your  bear 
has  gone  mad!”  He  then  told  me  that,  during  the  night, 
the  beast  had  destroyed  his  den,  and  was  found  in  the  morn- 
ing roaming  wild  about  the  garden.  Luckily,  the  keeper 


FRATERNAL  LOVE. 


21 


managed  to  seize  him  just  as  he  was  escaping  into  the  coun- 
try, and,  with  the  help  of  several  others,  succeeded  in  shut- 
ting him  up  again.  The  bear,  however,  refused  his  food,  and 
raved  in  so  fearful  a manner  that,  unless  he  could  be  quieted, 
it  was  clear  he  would  do  some  mischief. 

On  my  arrival  at  his  den,  I found  the  poor  brute  in  a most 
furious  state,  tearing  the  wooden  floor  with  his  claws,  and 
gnawing  the  barricaded  front  with  his  teeth.  I had  no  soon- 
er opened  the  door  than  he  sprang  furiously  at  me,  and 
struck  me  repeated  blows  with  his  powerful  paws.  As,  how- 
ever, I had  reared  him  from  a cub,  we  had  too  often  measured 
our  strength  together  for  me  to  fear  him  now;  and  I soon 
made  him  retreat  into  the  corner  of  his  prison,  where  he  re- 
mained howling  in  the  most  heartrending  manner.  It  was 
a most  sickening  sight  to  behold  the  poor  creature  with  his 
eyes  bloodshot,  and  protruding  from  the  sockets ; his  mouth 
and  chest  white  with  foam,  and  his  body  crusted  with  dirt. 
I am  not  ashamed  to  confess  that  at  one  time  I felt  my  own 
eyes  moistened.  Neither  blows  nor  kind  words  were  of  any 
effect : they  only  served  to  irritate  and  infuriate  him ; and  I 
saw  clearly  that  the  only  remedy  would  be,  either  to  shoot 
him,  or  to  restore  him  to  his  brother’s  companionship.  I 
chose  the  latter  alternative ; and  the  purchaser  of  the  other 
bear,  my  kind  friend  Sir  Henry  Hunloke,  on  being  informed 
of  the  circumstance,  consented  to  take  this  one  also. 

Shortly  after  my  arrival  in  London,  Sir  Hyde  Parker,  an- 
other valued  friend  of  mine,  and  “ The  King  of  Fishermen,” 
introduced  me  to  Mr.,  Francis  Galton,  who  was  then  just  on 
the  point  of  undertaking  an  expedition  to  Southern  Africa ; 
his  intention  being  to  explore  the  unknown  regions  beyond 
the  boundary  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  Colony,  and  to  pene- 
trate, if  possible,  to  the  recently  discovered  Lake  Ngami. 
Upon  finding  that  I also  had  an  intention  of  traveling,  and 
that  our  tastes  and  pursuits  were  in  many  respects*  similar, 
he  proposed  to  me  to  give  up  my  talked-of  trip  to  the  far 


22 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  JOURNEY  TO  AFRICA. 


north,  and  accompany  him  to  the  southward ; promising,  at 
the  same  time,  to  pay  the  whole  of  my  expenses.  This  offer 
awoke  within  me  all  my  former  ambition ; and,  although  I 
could  not  be  blind  to  the  difficulties  and  dangers  that  must 
necessarily  attend  such  an  expedition,  I embraced,  after  some 
hesitation,  Mr.  Gallon’s  tempting  and  liberal  proposal. 

Preparations  for  our  long  and  hazardous  journey  were  now 
rapidly  made.  An  immense  quantity  o goods  of  every  kind 
was  speedily  amassed,  intended  partly  for  barter  and  partly 
for  presents  to  barbarous  chiefs.  Muskets,  long  sword-knives, 
boar-spears,  axes,  hatchets,  clasp  and  strike-light  knives, 
Dutch  tinder-boxes,  daggers,  burning-glasses,  compasses,  gilt 
rings  (copper  or  brass),  alarums,  beads  of  every  size  and  col- 
or, wolf-traps,  rat-traps,  old  military  dresses,  cast-off  embas- 
sador’s uniforms — these,  and  a host  of  other  articles  too  vari- 
ous to  enumerate,  formed  our  stock  in  trade. 

To  the  above  we  added,  mostly  for  our  own  use,  guns  and 
rifles,  a vast  quantity  of  ammunition  of  all  kinds,  instru- 
ments for  taking  observations,  arsenical  and  other  prepara- 
tions for  preserving  objects  of  natural  history,  writing  mate- 
rials, sketch-books,  paints,  pencils,  canteens,  knives,  forks, 
dishes,  &c. 

It  was  also  deemed  advisable  that  we  should  take  with  us 
boats  for  the  navigation  of  Lake  Ngami,  those  used  by  the 
natives  being  unsafe.  We  therefore  supplied  ourselves  with 
three,  each  adapted  for  a specific  purpose. 

Having  thus  provided,  as  far  as  possible,  for  all  emer- 
gences, we  transferred  ourselves  and  baggage  on  board  the 
splendid  but  unfortunate  ship,  the  Dalhousie .*  Here  we 

* It  will  doubtless  be  remembered  that,  in  a gale  of  wind  off  the 
British  coast,  the  Dalhousie  was  thrown  on  her  beam-ends,  and  found- 
ered in  half  an  hour  afterward,  when,  with  a single  exception,  every 
soul  on  board  perished.  Out  of  the  several  vessels  in  which  I have  at 
different  times  been  a passenger,  the  Dalhousie  is  the  third  that  has 
perished  shortly  after  my  leaving  her ! 


I 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ENGLAND.  23 

found,  to  our  dismay,  in  addition  to  a number  of  other 
passengers,  several  hundred  emigrants,  destined  to  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope.  Instead,  however,  of  these  people  proving, 
as  we  had  at  first  anticipated,  a great  annoyance,  we  found 
that  they  contributed  considerably  toward  enlivening  and 
diverting  us  during  a long  and  tedious  passage. 

I am  not,  however,  about  to  inflict  upon  my  readers  the 
particulars  of  our  voyage  to  the  Cape.  Suffice  it  to  say 
that,  after  a few  days’  delay  at  Plymouth,  we  put  to  sea  in 
half  a gale  of  wind,  on  the  7th  of  April,  1850,  and  experi- 
enced subsequently  the  usual  vicissitudes  of  rough  and 
smooth  weather.  At  one  time  we  were  carried  by  a gentle 
breeze  past  the  lovely  island  of  Madeira,  and  so  near  as  to 
distinguish  its  pleasant  vineyards,  and  neat,  pretty  cottages, 
scattered  over  the  mountain  side  to  the  very  summit ; at 
another  we  were  driven  so  far  westward  by  gales  and  ad- 
verse winds  as  to  sight  the  coast  of  South  America,  until, 
at  length,  on  the  night  of  the  23d  of  June,  the  much-wished- 
for  land  was  descried,  and  on  the  following  noon  we  anchored 
safely  in  Table  Bay,  after  a passage  of  eighty-six  days — a 
time  at  least  a third  longer  than  the  average.  How  truly 
welcome  to  my  eyes,  as  we  sailed  into  the  bay,  was  the  fine 
panoramic  view  of  Cape-Town,  with  the  picturesque  Table 
Mountain  rising  immediately  in  the  background  ! 

Upon  landing,  we  took  up  our  quarters  at  Welch’s  hotel. 
Our  design  was  to  stay  a short  time  at  Cape-Town,  in  order 
to  obtain  information  respecting  our  intended  route,  and  to 
procure  whatever  was  still  wanting  for  our  j ourney.  We  then 
proposed  to  proceed  by  land  northward,  taking  the  course 
of  the  Trans-Yaal  river.  It  will  presently  be  seen,  however, 
that  our  desires  in  this  respect  were  entirely  frustrated. 

To  give  to  an  English  reader  a full  description  of  Cape- 
Town  "would,  indeed,  be  a superfluous  task.  I fear,  also, 
that  in  some  respects  I should  be  found  to  differ  from  other 
travelers. 


24 


CAPE-TOWN  AND  ITS  INHABITANTS. 


Cape-Town  is  generally  described  as  a clean  and  neat 
place.  With  all  due  deference,  I must  dissent  widely  from 
this  opinion.  All  the  streets,  for  instance,  are  unpaved,  and 
are,  moreover,  half  filled  with  rubbish,  swept  from  the  shops 
and  warehouses,  until  some  friendly  shower  carries  it  away. 
Undoubtedly  the  town  is  regularly  built,  with  broad  streets, 
laid  out  at  right  angles  to  each  other ; but  as  almost  every 
person  of  property  resides  in  the  country,  few  handsome 
dwelling-houses  are  to  be  met  with — and  by  far  the  greater 
number  are  in  the  Dutch  style.  Here,  however,  as  every 
where  else  where  the  English  have  obtained  firm  footing, 
improvements  are  very  apparent ; and,  doubtless,  now  that 
the  colony  has  obtained  its  own  Legislature,  such  improve- 
ments will  become  still  more  visible. 

No  one  can  be  at  Cape-Town  for  a single  day  without 
being  struck  by  the  infinite  variety  of  the  human  race  en- 
countered in  the  streets : Indians,  Chinese,  Malays,  CafFres, 
Bechuanas,  Hottentots,  Creoles,  “ Afrikanders,”  half-castes  of 
many  kinds,  negroes  of  every  variety  from  the  east  and  west 
coasts  of  Africa,  and  Europeans  of  all  countries,  form  the 
motley  population  of  the  place. 

Of  all  these,  with  the  exception 
of  the  Europeans,  the  Malays  are 
by  far  the  most  conspicuous  and 
important.  They  comprise,  indeed, 
no  inconsiderable  portion  of  the  in- 
habitants, and  are,  moreover,  dis- 
tinguished for  their  industry  and 
sobriety.  Many  of  them  are  ex- 
ceedingly well  off,  and,  not  unfre- 
quently,  keep  their  carriages  and 
horses.  They  profess  the  Moham- 
medan religion,  and  have  their  own 
clergy  and  places  of  worship.  Two 
thirds  of  the  week  they  work  hard, 


TABLE  MOUNTAIN. 


25 


and  devote  the  remainder  to  pleasure,  spending  much  of  their 
time  and  money  on  their  dress,  more  especially  the  women. 
These  latter  seldom  have  any  covering  for  the  head ; but  the 
men  tie  round  it  a red  handkerchief,  over  which  they  wear 
an  enormous  umbrella-shaped  straw  hat,  admirably  adapted 
to  ward  off  the  sun’s  rays,  but  useless  and  inconvenient  in 
windy  weather. 

The  Malays  are  usually  very  honest ; but,  strange  to  re- 
late, on  a certain  day  of  the  year  they  exert  their  ingenuity 
in  purloining  their  neighbors’  poultry,  and,  Spartan-like,  do 
not  consider  this  dishonorable,  provided  they  are  not  detect- 
ed in  the  fact : 

“ To  be  taken , to  be  seen , 

These  have  crimes  accounted  been.” 

To  be  at  Cape-Town,  without  ascending  the  far-famed 
Table  Mountain,  was,  of  course,  not  to  be  thought  of.  The 
undertaking,  however,  is  not  altogether  without  danger.  On 
the  side  of  the  town,  access  to  the  summit  is  only  practicable 
on  foot,  and  that  by  a narrow  and  slippery  path ; but  on  the 
opposite  side  the  Table  may  be  gained  on  horseback,  though 
with  some  difficulty.  The  whole  mountain  side,  moreover, 
is  intersected  by  deep  and  numerous  ravines,  which  are  ren- 
dered more  dangerous  by  the  dense  fogs  that,  at  certain  sea- 
sons of  the  year,  arise  suddenly  from  the  sea. 

One  fine  afternoon  I had  unconsciously  approached  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  and  the  top  looked  so  near  and  invit- 
ing, that,  though  the  sun  was  fast  ^sinking,  I determined  to 
make  the  ascent.  At  the  very  outset  I lost  the  road ; but, 
having  been  all  my  life  a mountain-climber,  I pushed  boldly 
forward.  The  task,  however,  proved  more  difficult  than  I 
expected,  and  the  sun’s  broad  disk  had  already  touched  the 
horizon  when  I reached  the  summit.  Nevertheless,  the  mag- 
nificent panorama  that  now  lay  spread  before  me  amply  re- 
warded me  for  my  trouble.  It  was,  however,  only  for  a very 
short  time  that  I could  enjoy  the  beautiful  scene ; darkness 

B 


26 


CURIOUS  LEGEND. 


was  rapidly  encroaching  over  the  valley  below ; and  as  in 
these  regions  there  is  but  one  step  from  light  to  darkness,  I 
was  compelled  to  commence  the  descent  without  a moment’s 
delay.  I confess  that  this  was  not  done  without  some  ap- 
prehension ; for,  what  with  the  quick-coming  night,  and  the 
terrible  ravines  that  lay  yawning  beneath  my  feet,  the  task 
was  any  thing  but  agreeable.  I found  it  necessary  for  safety 
to  take  off  my  boots,  which  I fastened  to  my  waist ; and  at 
length,  after  much  exertion,  with  hands  torn,  and  trowsers 
almost  in  rags,  I arrived  late  in  the  evening  at  our  hotel, 
where  they  had  begun  to  entertain  some  doubt  of  my  safety. 
As  a proof  that  my  fears  were  not  altogether  groundless,  a 
short  time  before  this,  a young  man,  who  was  wandering 
about  the  mountain  in  broad  daylight,  missed  his  footing, 
was  precipitated  down  its  sides,  and  brought  in  the  next  day 
a mutilated  corpse. 

When  Europeans  first  arrived  in  the  Cape  Colony,  it  would 
appear  that  almost  all  the  larger  quadrupeds  indigenous  to 
Southern  Africa  existed  in  the  neighborhood  of  Table  Mount- 
ain. A curious  anecdote  is  preserved  in  the  archives  of 
Cape-Town  relating  to  the  death  of  a rhineceros,  which,  for 
its  quaintness  and  originality,  is  perhaps  worthy  of  record. 

Once  upon  a time — so  runs  the  legend— some  laborers  em- 
ployed in  a field  discovered  a huge  rhinoceros  immovably 
fixed  in  the  quicksands  of  the  salt  river  which  is  within  a 
mile  of  the  town.  The  alarm  being  given,  a number  of  coun- 
try people,  armed  with  such  weapons  as  were  at  hand,  rushed 
to  the  spot  with  an  intention  of  dispatching  the  monster.  Its 
appearance,  however,  was  so  formidable,  that  they  deemed  it 
advisable  to  open  their  battery  at  a most  respectful  distance. 
But,  seeing  that  all  the  animal’s  efforts  to  extricate  itself  were 
fruitless,  the  men  gradually  grew  more  courageous,  and  ap- 
proached much  nearer.  Still,  whether  from  the  inefficiency 
of  their  weapons,  or  want  of  skill,  they  were  unable  to  make 
any  impression  on  the  tough  and  almost  impenetrable  hide 


PREPARATION  FOR  JOURNEY  INTO  THE  INTERIOR.  27 

of  the  beast.  At  length  they  began  to  despair,  and  it  was  a 
question  if  they  should  not  beat  a retreat ; when  an  individ- 
ual, more  sagacious  than  the  rest,  stepped  forward,  and  sug- 
gested that  a hole  should  be  cut  in  the  animal’s  hide,  by 
which  means  easy  access  might  be  had  to  its  vitals,  and  they 
could  then  destroy  it  at  their  leisure ! The  happy  device 
was  loudly  applauded ; and  though,  I believe,  the  tale  ends 
here,  it  may  be  fairly  concluded  that,  after  such  an  excel- 
lent recommendation,  success  could  not  but  crown  their  en- 
deavors. 

We  had  now  been  at  Cape-Town  somewhat  less  than  a 
week,  and  had  already  added  considerably  to  the  stock  of 
articles  of  exchange,  provisions,  and  other  necessaries  for  our 
journey.  To  convey  the  immense  quantity  of  luggage,  we 
provided  ourselves  with  two  gigantic  wagons,  each  repre- 
sented to  hold  three  or  four  thousand  pounds’  weight,  togeth- 
er with  a sort  of  cart*  for  ourselves. 

Mr.  Gallon  bought  also  nine  excellent  mules,  which  could 
be  used  either  for  draft  or  packing ; two  riding  horses  ; and, 
in  addition  to  these,  he  secured  about  half  a dozen  dogs, 
which,  if  the  truth  be  told,  were  of  a somewhat  mongrel  de- 
scription. 

Mr.  Galton  also  engaged  the  needful  people  to  accompany 
us  on  our  travels,  such  as  wagon-drivers,  herdsmen,  cooks, 
&c.,  in  all  amounting  to  seven  individuals. 

Our  preparations  being  now  complete,  we  were  about  to 
set  out  on  our  journey,  when,  to  our  dismay,  we  received  in- 
formation which  entirely  overthrew  our  plans.  It  was  re- 
ported to  us  that  the  Boers  on  the  Trans-Vaal  River  (the  very 
line  of  country  we' purposed  taking)  had  lately  turned  back 
several  traders  and  travelers  who  were  on  their  way  north- 

* The  term  “cart,”  in  this  sense,  implies  a large,  roomy,  and  cov- 
ered vehicle,  capable  of  holding  four  or  six  individuals,  and  from  five 
hundred  to  one  thousand  pounds  of  baggage.  It  is  usually  drawn  by 
six  or  eight  mules  or  horses. 


28 


JOURNEY  DEFERRED. 


ward,  and  had,  moreover,  threatened  to  kill  any  person  who 
should  attempt  to  pass  through  their  territories  with  the  in- 
tention of  penetrating  to  Lake  Ngami.  This  intelligence 
being  equally  unexpected  and  unwelcome,  we  were  at  a loss 
on  what  to  decide.  On  asking  the  opinion  of  the  Governor 
of  the  Cape,  Sir  Harry  Smith,  to  whose  kindness  and  hospi- 
tality we  were,  on  several  occasions,  indebted,  he  strongly 
dissuaded  us  from  attempting  the  route  in  question.  “ The 
Boers,”  he  said,  “ are  determined  men ; and,  although  I have 
no  fear  for  the  safety  of  your  lives,  they  will  assuredly  rob 
you  of  all  your  goods  and  cattle,  and  thus  prevent  your  pro- 
ceeding farther.”  The  counsel  given  us  by  his  excellency 
settled  the  point.  We  were,  however,  determined  not  to  be 
idle ; but  it  was  by  no  means  easy  to  decide  on  what  course 
to  pursue.  As  the  whole  of  the  interior,  by  which  a passage 
could  be  obtained  to  the  lake,  was  either  occupied  by  the 
Boers,  or  served  as  their  hunting-ground,  we  were  compelled 
to  choose  between  the  eastern  and  western  coasts.  The  for- 
mer of  these,  however,  was  well  known  to  be  infected  by 
fevers  fatal  to  Europeans;  while  the  latter  presented,  for  a 
considerable  distance  northward,  nothing  but  a sandy  shore, 
destitute  of  fresh  water  and  vegetation.  The  country  inter- 
vening between  the  western  coast  and  the  lake,  moreover, 
was  represented  as  very  unhealthy. 

While  in  this  state  of  uncertainty,  we  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  a Mr.  M , who  lately  had  an  establishment  at 

Walfisch  Bay,  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa,  about  seven  hund- 
red geographical  miles  north  of  the  Cape.  He  strongly  rec- 
ommended us  to  select  this  place  as  the  starting-point  for  our 
journey  into  the  interior,  which  opinion  was  confirmed  by 
some  missionaries  whom  we  met  in  Cape-Town,  and  who 
had  a settlement  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  bay  in  question. 

This  route  was  ultimately  adopted  by  us ; but,  as  vessels 
only  frequented  Walfisch  Bay  once  or  twice  in  the  course  of 
every  two  years,  Mr.  Galton  at  once  chartered  a small  schoon- 


ARRIVAL  AT  WALFISCH  BAY. 


29 


er,  named  the  Foam , the  sixth  part  of  the  expense  of  which 
was  defrayed  by  the  missionaries  referred  to,  who  were  anx- 
ious not  only  to  forward  some  supplies,  but  to  obtain  a pas- 
sage for  a young  member  of  their  society,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Schoneberg,  who  was  about  proceeding  on  a mission  of 
jpeace  and  good-will  into  Damara-land. 

As  our  plans  were  now  so  entirely  changed,  and  as  we 
were  about  to  travel  through  an  almost  unknown  region,  we 
thought  it  expedient  to  disencumber  ourselves  of  whatever 
could  in  any  way  be  spared.  We  left,  accordingly,  at  the 
Cape,  among  other  things,  two  of  our  boats ; taking  with  us, 
however,  the  other,  a mackintosh  punt,  as  being  light  and 
portable,  hoping  some  day  or  other  to  see  her  floating  on  the 
waters  of  the  Ngami. 

Our  arrangements  being  finished,  and  the  goods,  &c., 
shipped,  we  unfurled  our  sails  on  the  7th  of  August,  and 
bade  farewell  to  Cape-Town,  where,  during  our  short  stay, 
we  had  experienced  much  kindness  and  hospitality. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Arrival  at  Walfisch  Bay. — Scenery. — Harbor  described. — Want  of 
Water. — Capabilities  for  Trade. — Fish. — Wild-fowl. — Mirage. — 
Sand  Fountain.  — The  Bush-tick.  — The  Naras.  — Quadrupeds 
scarce.  — Meeting  the  Hottentots. — Their  filthy  Habits.  — The 
Alarum. — The  Turn-out. — Death  of  a Lion. — Arrival  at  Schepp- 
mansdorf. — The  Place  described. — Mr.  Bam. — Missionary  Life. — 
Ingratitude  of  Natives. — Missionary  Wagons. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  20th  of  August  we  found  ourselves 
safely  anchored  at  the  entrance  of  Walfisch  Bay.  From  the 
prevalence  of  southerly  winds,  this  voyage  seldom  occupies 
more  than  a week,  but  on  the  present  occasion  we  were 
double  that  time  performing  it. 

The  first  appearance  of  the  coast,  as  seen  from  Walfisch 
Bay,  is  little  calculated  to  inspire  confidence  in  the  traveler 


30 


SCENERY — HARBOR  DESCRIBED. 


about  to  penetrate  into  the  interior.  A desert  of  sand, 
bounded  only  by  the  horizon,  meets  the  eye  in  every  quarter, 
assuming,  in  one  direction,  the  shape  of  dreary  flats  ; in  an- 
other,  of  shifting  hillocks ; while  in  some  parts  it  rises  al- 
most to  the  height  of  mountains. 

Walfisch  Bay  has  been  long  known  to  Europeans,  and  was 
once  hastily  surveyed  by  Commodore  Owen,  of  the  Royal 
Navy.  It  is  a very  spacious,  commodious,  and  comparatively 
safe  harbor,  being  on  three  sides  protected  by  a sandy  shore. 
The  only  winds  to  which  it  is  exposed  are  N.  and  N.W. ; 
but  these,  fortunately,  are  not  of  frequent  occurrence.  Its 
situation  is  about  N.  and  S.  The  anchorage  is  good.  Large 
ships  take  shelter  under  the  lee  of  a sandy  peninsula,  the 
extremity  of  which  is  known  to  navigators  by  the  name  of 
“ Pelican  Point.”  Smaller  craft,  however,  ride  safely  with- 
in less  than  half  a mile  of  the  shore. 

The  great  disadvantage  of  Walfisch  Bay  is  that  no  fresh 
water  can  be  found  near  the  beach  ; but  at  a distance  of 
three  miles  inland  abundance  may  be  obtained,  as  also  good 
pasturage  for  cattle.  I mention  this  circumstance  as  being 
essential  to  the  establishment  of  any  cattle-trade  in  future. 

During  the  time  the  guano  trade  flourished  on  the  west 
coast  of  Africa,  Walfisch  Bay  was  largely  resorted  to  by 
vessels  of  every  size,  chiefly  with  a view  of  obtaining  fresh 
provisions.  At  that  period,  certain  parties  from  the  Cape 
had  an  establishment  here  for  the  salting  and  curing  of  beef. 
They,  moreover,  furnished  the  guano-traders,  as  also  Cape- 


FISH WILD-FOWL. 


31 


Town,  with  cattle ; and  had,  in  addition,  a contract  with  the 
British  government  for  supplying  St.  Helena  with  live-stock. 
The  latter  speculation  proved  exceedingly  lucrative  for  a 
time,  and  a profit  of  many  hundred  per  cent,  was  said  to  be 
realized.  From  some  mismanagement,  however,  the  contract 
for  St.  Helena  was  thrown  up  by  the  government,  and  the 
parties  in  question  were  fined  a large  sum  of  money  for  its 
non-fulfillment.  Shortly  afterward  the  establishment  was 
broken  up,  and  for  several  years  the  house  and  store  re- 
mained unoccupied  ; but  they  are  now  again  tenanted  by 
people  belonging  to  merchants  from  Cape-Town. 

Walfisch  Bay  affords  an  easy  and  speedy  communication 
with  the  interior.  By  the  late  explorations  of  Mr.  Galton 
and  myself  in  that  quarter,  we  have  become  acquainted  with 
many  countries  previously  unknown,  or  only  partially  ex- 
plored, to  which  British  commerce  might  easily  be  extended. 

Walfisch  Bay  and  the  neighborhood  abounds  with  fish  of 
various  kinds  : at  certain  seasons,  indeed,  it  is  much  frequent- 
ed by  a number  of  the  smaller  species  of  whale,  known  by 
the  name  of  “ humpbacks,”  which  come  here  to  breed.  Sev- 
eral cargoes  of  oil,  the  produce  of  this  fish,  have  been  already 
exported. 

At  the  inner  part  of  the  harbor,  a piece  of  shallow  water 
extends  nearly  a mile  into  the  interior,  and  is  separated  from 
the  sea,  on  the  west  side,  by  Pelican  Point.  This  lagoon 
teems  with  various  kinds  of  fish,  and  at  low  water,  many 
that  have  lingered  behind  are  left  sprawling  helplessly  in  the 
mud.  At  such  times,  the  natives  are  frequently  seen  ap- 
proaching ; and,  with  a gemsbok’s  horn  affixed  to  a slender 
stick,  they  transfix  their  finny  prey  at  leisure.  Even  hyaenas 
and  jackals  seize  such  opportunities  to  satisfy  their  hunger. 

Walfisch  Bay  is  frequented  by  immense  numbers  of  water- 
fowl,  such  as  geese,  ducks,  different  species  of  cormorants, 
pelicans,  flamingoes,  and  countless  flocks  of  sandpipers.  But, 
as  the  surrounding  country  is  every  where  open,  they  are  dif- 


32 


ARCTIC  BUCK.- 


ficult  of  approach.  Nevertheless,  with  a little  tact  and  ex- 
perience, tolerably  good  sport  may  be  obtained,  and  capital 
rifle-practice  at  all  times.  Hardly  any  of  the  water-fowl 
breed  here. 

Every  morning,  at  daybreak,  myriads  of  flamingoes,  peli- 
cans, cormorants,  &c.,  are  seen  moving  from  their  roosting- 
places  in  and  about  the  bay,  and  flying  in  a northerly  direc- 
tion. About  noon  they  begin  to  return  to  the  southern  por- 
tion of  the  bay,  and  continue  arriving  there,  in  an  almost 
continuous  stream,  until  nightfall. 

The  way  in  which  the  “ duikers”  (cormorants  and  shags) 
obtain  their  food  is  not  uninteresting.  Instead  of  hovering 
over  their  prey,  as  the  gull,  or  waiting  quietly  for  it  in  some 
secluded  spot,  like  the  kingfisher,  they  make  their  attacks  in 
a noisy  and  exciting  manner.  Mr.  Lloyd,  in  his  “ Scandina- 
vian Adventures,”  has  given  a very  interesting  account  of 
the  manner  in  which  the  Arctic  duck  ( harelda  glacialis , 
Steph.)  procures  its  food;  and,  as  it  applies  to  the  birds 
above  named,  I can  not  do  better  than  quote  him  on  the 
subject. 

“The  hareld  is  a most  restless  bird,”  says  he,  “ and  per- 
petually in  motion.  It  rarely  happens  that  one  sees  it  in  a 
state  of  repose  during  the  daytime.  The  flock — for  there 
are  almost  always  several  in  company — swim  pretty  fast 
against  the  wind ; and  the  individuals  comprising  it  keep  up 
a sort  of  race  with  each  other.  Some  of  the  number  are  al- 
ways diving;  and,  as  these  remain  long  under  water,  and 
their  comrades  are  going  rapidly  ahead  in  the  mean  while, 
they  are,  of  course,  a good  way  behind  the  rest  on  their  re- 
appearance at  the  surface.  Immediately  on  coming  up, 
therefore,  they  take  wing,  and,  flying  over  the  backs  of  their 
comrades,  resume  their  position  in  the  ranks,  or  rather  fly 
somewhat  beyond  their  fellows,  with  the  object,  as  it  would 
seem,  of  being  the  foremost  of  the  party.  This  frequently 
continues  across  the  bay  or  inlet,  until  the  flock  is  “ brought 


MIRAGE. 


33 


up”  by  the  opposing  shore,  when  they  generally  all  take  wing 
and  move  off  elsewhere.  *■■****<  Fair  p iay  js  a 
jewel/  says  the  old  saw,  and  so,  perhaps,  thinks  the  hareld ; 
for  it  would  really  appear  as  if  it  adopted  the  somewhat  cu- 
rious manoeuvre  just  mentioned  to  prevent  its  companions 
from  going  over  the  ground  previously.” 

The  day  after  our  arrival  we  moved  our  small  craft  with- 
in half  a mile  of  the  shore,  and,  as  soon  as  she  was  safely 
anchored,  we  proceeded  to  reconnoitre  the  neighborhood. 
The  first  thing  which  attracted  our  attention  was  a mirage 
of  the  most  striking  character  and  intensity  of  effect.  Ob- 
jects, distant  only  a few  hundred  feet,  became  perfectly  met- 
amorphosed. Thus,  for  instance,  a small  bird  would  look  as 
big  as  a rock,  or  the  trunk  of  a tree ; pelicans  assumed  the 
appearance  of  ships  under  canvas ; the  numerous  skeletons 
and  bones  of  stranded  whales  were  exaggerated  into  clusters 
of  lofty  houses,  and  dreary  and  sterile  plains  presented  the 
aspect  of  charming  lakes.  In  short,  every  object  had  a be- 
wildering and  supernatural  appearance,  and  the  whole  at- 
mosphere was  misty,  tremulous,  and  wavy.  This  phenome- 
non is  at  all  times  very  remarkable,  but  during  the  hot 
season  of  the  year  it  is  more  surprising  and  deceptive.  At 
an  after  period  Mr.  Galton  tried  to  map  the  bay,  but  this 
mirage  frustrated  all  his  endeavors.  An  object  that  he  had, 
perhaps,  chosen  for  a mark,  became  totally  indistinguishable 
when  he  moved  to  the  next  station. 

On  the  beach  we  found  a small  house,  constructed  of 
planks,  in  tolerable  preservation,  which  at  high  water  was 
completely  surrounded  by  the  sea.  This  had  originally  been 
erected  by  a Captain  Greybourn  for  trading  purposes,  but 
was  now  in  the  possession  of  the  Khenish  Missionary  Society. 
It  was  kindly  thrown  open  to  our  use,  and  proved  of  the 
greatest  comfort  to  us ; for  at  this  season  the  nights  were 
bitterly  cold,  and  the  dew  so  heavy  as  completely  to  satu- 
rate every  article  of  clothing  that  was  exposed. 

B 2 


34 


SAND  FOUNTAIN. 


We  had  not  been  many  minutes  on  shore  when  some 
half-naked,  half-starved,  cut-throat-looking  savages  made 
their  appearance,  armed  with  muskets  and  assegais.  Noth- 
ing could  exceed  the  squalid,  wretched,  and  ludicrous  aspect 
of  these  people,  which  was  increased  by  a foolish  endeavor 
to  assume  a martial  bearing,  no  doubt  with  a view  of  mak- 
ing an  impression  on  us.  Without  noticing  either  their 
weapons  or  swaggering  air,  and  in  order  to  disarm  suspicion, 
we  walked  straight  up  to  them,  and  shook  hands  with  appa- 
rent cordiality.  Our  missionary  friend,  Mr.  Schoneberg,  then 
explained  to  them,  by  signs  and  gestures,  that  he  wished  to 
have  a letter  conveyed  to  Mr.  Bam,  his  colleague,  residing 
at  Scheppmansdorf,  some  twenty  miles  off,  in  an  easterly 
direction.  It  soon  became  apparent  that  they  were  accus- 
tomed to  similar  errands ; for,  on  receiving  a small  gratuity 
of  tobacco  on  the  spot,  with  a promise  of  further  payment 
on  their  return,  they  set  out  immediately,  and  executed  their 
task  with  so  much  dispatch,  that,  before  the  dawn  of  next 
morning,  Mr.  Bam  had  arrived. 

In  the  mean  time,  we  made  an  excursion  to  a place  called 
Sand  Fountain,  about  three  miles  inland.  On  our  way  there 
we  crossed  a broad  flat,  which  in  spring  tides  is  entirely 
flooded.  In  spite  of  this  submersion,  the  tracks  of  wagons, 
animals,  &c.,  of  several  years’  standing,  were  as  clear  and 
distinct  as  if  imprinted  but  yesterday ! At  Sand  Fountain 
we  found  another  wooden  house,  but  uninhabited,  belonging 

to  Mr.  D , a partner  of  Mr.  M •.  The  natives  had 

taken  advantage  of  the  absence  of  the  owner  to  injure  and 
destroy  the  few  pieces  of  furniture  left  behind,  and  leaves 
of  books  and  panes  of  window  glass  were  wantonly  strewn 
about  the  ground.  We  next  visited  the  so-called  “ fountain,” 
which  was  hard  by ; but,  instead  of  a copious  spring — as  the 
name  of  the  place  gave  us  reason  to  expect — we  found,  to 
our  dismay,  nothing  but  a small  hole,  some  five  or  six  inches 
in  diameter,  and  half  as  many  deep ; the  water,  moreover, 


UNPALATABLE  WATER. 


35 


was  of  so  execrable  a quality  as  to  make  it  totally  undrink- 
able. However,  on  cleaning  away  the  sand,  it  flowed  pretty 
freely,  and  we  flattered  ourselves  that,  by  a little  care  and 
trouble,  we  might  render  it  fit  for  use,  if  not  exactly  pala- 
table. 

After  having  thus  far  explored  the  country,  we  returned 
to  the  vessel.  On  the  following  morning,  at  daybreak,  we 
set  about  landing  our  effects,  mules,  horses,  &c.,  which  was 
not  done  without  some  difficulty.  As  soon  as  the  goods 
belonging  to  the  missionary  should  have  been  removed  to 
Scheppmansdorf,  Mr.  Bam  most  considerately  promised  to 
assist  us  with  his  oxen.  In  the  interval — as  there  was  no 
fresh  water  on  the  beach— we  deemed  it  advisable  to  remove 
our  luggage,  by  means  of  the  mules,  to  Sand  Fountain,  where 
we  should,  at  least,  be  able  to  obtain  water — though  bad  of 
its  kind — and  be  better  off  in  other  respects. 

On  the  fourth  day,  the  schooner  which  had  conveyed  us 
to  Walfisch  Bay  set  sail  for  the  Cape,  leaving  us  entirely  to 
our  own  resources  on  a desert  coast,  and — excepting  the 
several  missionary  stations  scattered  over  the  country — at 
several  months’  tedious  journey  by  land  to  the  nearest  point 
of  civilization. 

On  returning  to  Sand  Fountain,  our  first  care  was  to  sink 
an  old  perforated  tar-barrel  in  a place  dug  for  the  purpose ; 
but  instead  of  improving  the  quality  of  the  water,  it  only 
made  matters  worse!  Fortunately,  we  had  taken  the  pre- 
caution to  bring  with  us  from  the  Cape  a “ copper  distiller 
but  the  water,  even  thus  purified,  could  only  be  used  for 
cooking,  or  making  very  strong  coffee  and  tea.  Strange 
enough,  when  the  owner  of  the  house  resided  here,  water 
was  abundant,  and  excellent ; but  the  spot  where  it  was  ob- 
tained was  now  hidden  from  view  by  an  immense  sand-hill, 
which  defied  digging. 

At  Sand  Fountain  we  had  the  full  benefit  of  the  sea-breeze, 
which  made  the  temperature  very  agreeable,  the  thermometer 


36 


BUSH-TICK. 


never  exceeding  seventy-five  degrees  in  the  shade  at  noon. 
The  sand,  however,  was  a cruel  annoyance,  entering  into 
every  particle  of  food,  and  penetrating  our  clothes  to  the 
very  skin.  But  we  were  subjected  to  a still  more  formidable 
inconvenience  ; for,  besides  myriads  of  fleas,  our  encampment 
swarmed  with  a species  of  bush-tick,  whose  bite  was  so  se- 
vere and  irritating  as  almost  to  drive  us  mad.  To  escape, 
if  possible,  the  horrible  persecutions  of  these  bloodthirsty 
creatures,  I took  refuge  one  night  in  the  cart,  and  was  con- 
gratulating myself  on  having  at  last  secured  a place  free 
from  their  attacks.  But  I was  mistaken.  I had  not  been 
long  asleep  before  I was  awakened  by  a disagreeable  irrita- 
tion over  my  whole  body,  which  shortly  became  intolerable ; 
and,  notwithstanding  the  night  air  was  very  sharp,  and  the 
dew  heavy,  I cast  off  all  my  clothes,  and  rolled  on  the  icy- 
cold  sand  till  the  blood  flowed  freely  from  every  pore. 
Strange  as  it  may  appear,  I found  this  expedient  serviceable. 

On  another  occasion,  a bush-tick,  but  of  a still  more  pois- 
onous species,  attached  itself  to  one  of  my  feet;  and,  though 
a stinging  sensation  was  produced,  I never  thought  of  exam- 
ining the  part,  till  one  day,  when  enjoying  the  unusual  lux- 
ury of  a cold  bath,  I accidentally  discovered  the  intruder 
deeply  buried  in  the  flesh,  and  it  was  only  with  very  great 
pain  that  I succeeded  in  extracting  it,  or  rather  its  body,  for 
the  head  remained  in  the  wound.  The  poisonous  effect  of 
its  bite  was  so  acrimonious  as  to  cause  partial  lameness  for 
three  following  months ! 

The  bush-tick  does  not  confine  its  attacks  to  men  only,  for 
it  attaches  itself  with  even  greater  pertinacity  to  the  inferior 
animals.  Many  a poor  dog  have  I seen  killed  by  its  relent- 
less persecutions  ; and  even  the  sturdy  ox  has  been  known  to 
succumb  under  the  poisonous  influence  of  these  insects.* 

* When  a bush-tick  is  found  attached  to  any  part  of  the  body  of  a 
man,  the  simplest  and  the  most  effectual  way  of  getting  rid  of  it, 
without  any  disagreeable  result,  is  to  anoint  the  place  to  which  the 


THE  NARAS. 


37 


Sand  Fountain,  notwithstanding  its  disagreeable  guests, 
had  its  advantages.  Almost  every  little  sand-hillock  there- 
about was  covered  with  a “ creeper,”  which  produced  a kind 
of  prickly  gourd  (called  by  the  natives  naras),  of  the  most 
- delicious  flavor.  It  is  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  turnip 
(a  Swede),  and,  when  ripe,  has  a greenish  exterior,  with  a 
tinge  of  lemon.  The  interior,  again,  which  is  of  a deep 
orange  color,  presents  a most  cooling,  refreshing,  and  invit- 
ing appearance.  A stranger,  however,  must  be  particularly 
cautious  not  to  eat  of  it  too  freely,  as  otherwise  it  produces 
a peculiar  sickness,  and  great  soreness  of  the  gum  and  lips. 
For  three  or  four  months  in  the  year  it  constitutes  the  chief 
food  of  the  natives. 

The  naras  contains  a great  number  of  seeds,  not  unlike  a 
peeled  almond  in  appearance  and  taste,  and  being  easily  sep- 
arated from  the  fleshy  parts,  they  are  carefully  collected,  ex- 
posed to  the  sun,  dried,  and  then  stored  away  in  little  skin 
bags.  When  the  fruit  fails,  the  natives  have  recourse  to  the 
seeds,  which  are  equally  nutritious,  and  perhaps  even  more 
wholesome.  The  naras  may  also  be  preserved  by  being 
boiled.  When  of  a certain  consistency,  it  is  spread  out  into 
thin  cakes,  in  which  state  it  presents  the  appearance  of  brown 
moist  sugar,  and  may  be  kept  for  almost  any  length  of  time. 
These  cakes  are,  however,  rather  rich  and  luscious. 

But  it  is  not  man  alone  that  derives  benefit  from  this  re- 
markable plant,  for  every  animal,  from  the  field-mouse  to 
the  ox,  and  even  the  feline  and  canine  race,  devour  it  with 
great  avidity.  Birds*  are  also  very  partial  to  it,  more  es- 
pecially ostriches,  who,  during  the  naras  season,  are  found 
in  great  abundance  in  these  parts. 

insect  has  fixed  itself  with  pipe  oil.  In  cases  of  brute  animals,  I 
have  found  tar  to  answer  the  purpose  exceedingly  well. 

* I have  seen  the  white  Egyptian  vulture  feed  upon  it ! This  is,  I 
believe,  with  one  more  exception,  the  only  instance  where  this  class 
of  birds  are  known  to  partake  of  vegetable  food. 


38 


THE  NARAS QUADRUPEDS  SCARCE. 


It  is  in  such  instances,  more  especially,  that  the  mind  be- 
comes powerfully  impressed  with  the  wise  provisions  of  na- 
ture, and  the  great  goodness  of  the  Almighty,  who  even 
from  the  desert  raises  good  and  wholesome  sustenance  for 
man  and  all  his  creatures. 

“ By  his  bounteous  hand, 

God  covers  earth  with  food  for  man  and  beast, 

Insect  and  bird ; yea,  the  poor  creeping  worm 
Partakes  the  Creator’s  bounty.” 

In  this  barren  and  poverty-stricken  country,  food  is  so 
scarce  that,  without  the  naras,  the  land  would  be  all  but  un- 
inhabitable. The  naras  serves,  moreover,  a double  purpose ; 
for,  besides  its  usefulness  as  food,  it  fixes  with  wonderful  te- 
nacity, by  means  of  extensive  ramifications,  the  constantly 
shifting  sands ; it  is,  indeed,  to  those  parts  what  the  sand- 
reed  (ammophila  arundinacia ) is  to  the  sandy  shores  and 
downs  of  England. 

The  naras  only  grows  in  the  bed  of  the  Kuisip  River,  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  sea.  A few  plants  are  to  be  met 
with  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orange  River,  as  also,  according 
to  Captain  Messum,  in  a few  localities  between  the  Swakop 
and  the  Nourse  River. 

The  general  aspect  of  the  country  about  Sand  Fountain  is 
very  dreary  and  desolate.  The  soil  is  entirely  composed  of 
sand.  The  vegetation,  moreover,  is  stunted  in  the  extreme, 
consisting  chiefly  of  the  above-mentioned  creeper,  a species 
of  tamarisk  tree  (or  rather  bush),  and  a few  dew-plants. 
Consequently,  the  animal  world,  as  might  be  expected,  did 
not  present  any  great  variety.  Nevertheless,  being  an  en- 
thusiastic sportsman,  and  devoted  to  the  study  of  natural  his- 
tory, I made  frequent  short  excursions  into  the  neighborhood, 
on  which  occasions  my  spoils  consisted  for  the  most  part  of 
some  exquisitely  beautiful  lizards,  a few  long-legged  beetles, 
and  some  pretty  species  of  field-mice.  Once  in  a time,  more- 
over, I viewed  a solitary  gazelle  in  the  distance. 


THE  ALARUM THE  TURN-OUT. 


39 


A few  miles  from  our  encampment  resided  a small  kraal 
of  Hottentots,  under  the  chief  Frederick,  who  occasionally 
brought  us  some  milk  and  a few  goats  as  a supply  for  the 
larder,  in  exchange  for  which  they  received  old  soldiers’  coats 
(worth  sixpence  a piece),  handkerchiefs,  hats,  tobacco,  and  a 
variety  of  other  trifling  articles.  But  they  infinitely  pre- 
ferred to  beg,  and  were  not  the  least  ashamed  to  ask  for  even 
the  shirt  on  one’s  back. 

These  men  were  excessively  dirty  in  their  habits.  One 
fine  morning  I observed  an  individual  attentively  examining 
his  caross,  spread  out  before  him  in  a sunny  and  sheltered 
spot.  On  approaching  him,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  cause 
of  his  deep  meditation,  I found,  to  my  astonishment  and  dis- 
gust, that  he  was  feasting  on  certain  loathsome  insects,  that 
can  not  with  propriety  be  named  to  ears  polite.  This  was 
only  one  instance  out  of  a hundred  that  might  be  named  of 
their  filthy  customs. 

As  Frederick  the  chieftain,  and  a few  of  his  half-starved 
and  Chinese-featured  followers,  were  one  day  intently  watch- 
ing the  process  of  our  packing  and  unpacking  divers  trunks, 
I placed  alongside  of  him,  as  if  by  accident,  a small  box- 
alarum,  and  then  resumed  my  employment.  On  the  first 
shrill  sound  of  the  instrument,  our  friend  leaped  from  his 
seat  like  one  suddenly  demented ; and  during  the  whole  time 
the  jarring  notes  continued,  he  remained  standing  at  a re- 
spectful distance,  trembling  violently  from  head  to  foot. 

As  no  draft  cattle  could  be  obtained  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, nor,  indeed,  within  a less  distance  than  from  one  hund- 
red and  fifty  to  two  hundred  miles,  Mr.  Galton  started  on  an 
excursion  into  the  interior  with  a view  of  obtaining  a supply. 

His  “ turn-out”  was  most  original,  and  would  have  formed 
an  excellent  subject  for  a caricature.  From  both  ends  of  the 
cart  with  which  he  made  the  journey  protruded  a number  of 
common  muskets  and  other  articles  intended  for  barter.  The 
mules  harnessed  to  the  vehicle  kept  up  a most  discordant  con- 


40 


AN  EMBARRASSING  SITUATION. 


cert,  viciously  kicking  out  to  the  right  and  left.  The  coach- 
man, bathed  in  perspiration,  kept  applying  his  immense  Cape- 
whip  to  their  flanks  with  considerable  unction,  while  a man 
sitting  alongside  of  him  on  the  front  seat  abused  the  stub- 
born animals  with  a burst  of  all  the  eloquent  epithets  con- 
tained in  the  Dutch  - Hottentot  vocabulary.  Two  sulky 
goats,  tied  to  the  back  of  the  cart,  were  on  the  point  of 
strangling  themselves  in  their  endeavors  to  escape.  To  com- 
plete the  picture,  Gallon  himself,  accompanied  by  half  a doz- 
en dogs  of  nondescript  race,  toiled  on  cheerfully  through  the 
deep  sand  by  the  side  of  the  vehicle,  smoking  a common  clay 
pipe. 

On  my  friend’s  arrival  at  Scheppmansdorf,  however,  he 
found  it  necessary  to  adjourn  his  trip  into  the  interior  for  a 
few  days. 

In  the  mean  time,  as  Mr.  Barn’s  oxen  had  arrived  at  Sand 
Fountain,  I busied  myself  with  conveying  the  baggage  to 
Scheppmansdorf;  but,  on  account  of  its  great  weight  and 
bulk,  and  the  badness  of  the  road,  this  occupation  lasted 
several  days.  In  the  last  trip  we  had  so  overloaded  the 
wagons,  that,  after  about  three  miles,  the  oxen  came  to  a 
dead  stand-still.  The  two  teams  were  now  yoked  to  one  of 
the  vehicles,  and  it  proceeded  on  its  way  without  further  in- 
terruption, while  I remained  alone  in  charge  of  the  other. 
It  was  agreed  that  some  of  the  men  should  return  with  the 
cattle  on  the  following  night ; but,  on  arriving  at  Schepp- 
mansdorf, they  and  the  oxen  were  so  exhausted  that  it  was 
found  necessary  to  give  both  the  one  and  the  other  two  days’ 
rest.  For  this  delay  I was  not  at  all  prepared.  My  small 
supply  of  water  had  been  exhausted  on  the  second  day,  and 
I began,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  to  experience  the  misery 
of  thirst.  I was,  however,  fortunately  relieved  from  my 
embarrassing  situation  by  the  arrival  of  a Hottentot,  who, 
for  a trifling  consideration,  brought  me  an  ample  supply  of 
water. 


DEATH  OF  A LION SCHEPPMANSDORF.  41 

At  length  all  the  baggage  was  safely  deposited  at  Schepp- 
mansdorf, where  I rejoined  Mr.  Galton. 

He  had  not,  I found,  been  many  days  at  that  place,  when 
- a magnificent  lion  suddenly  appeared  one  night  in  the  midst 
of  the  village.  A small  dog,  that  had  incautiously  approach- 
ed the  beast,  paid  the  penalty  of  its  life  for  its  daring.  The 
next  day  a grand  chase  was  got  up,  but  the  lion,  being  on 
his  guard,  managed  to  elude  his  pursuers.  The  second  day, 
however,  he  was  killed  by  Messrs.  Galton  and  Bam ; and, 
on  cutting  him  up,  the  poor  dog  was  found,  still  undigested, 
in  his  stomach,  bitten  into  five  pieces. 

The  natives  highly  rejoiced  at  the  successful  termination 
of  the  hunt;  for  this  lion  had  proved  himself  to  be  one  of 
the  most  daring  and  destructive  ever  known,  having,  in  a 
short  time,  killed  upward  of  fifty  oxen,  cows,  and  horses. 
Though  he  had  previously  been  chased,  he  had  always 
escaped  unscathed,  and  every  successive  attack  made  upon 
him  only  served  to  increase  his  ferocity. 

I regretted  much  being  prevented  from  taking  part  in  so 
interesting  and  exciting  an  event,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  I 
felt  pleased  that  my  friend  had  thus  early  had  an  opportunity 
of  exercising  his  skill  on  one  of  the  most  noble  and  dreaded 
of  the  animal  creation.  My  turn  was  yet  to  come. 

Scheppmansdorf — Roebank — Abbanhous — as  it  is  indiffer- 
ently called — was  first  occupied  as  a missionary  station  in 
the  year  1846,  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Scheppman,  from  whom  it 
takes  its  name.  It  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  River 
Kuisip,  and  immediately  behind  rise  enormous  masses  and 
ridges  of  sand.  The  Kuisip  is  a periodical  stream,  and  is 
dependent  on  the  rains  in  the  interior ; but,  from  the  great 
uncertainty  of  this  supply,  and  the  absorbing  nature  of  the 
soil,  it  is  seldom  that  it  reaches  Walfisch  Bay,  where  it  has 
its  estuary.  On  our  arrival,  the  Kuisip  had  not  flowed  for 
years;  but  when  it  does  send  down  its  mighty  torrent,  it 
fertilizes  and  changes  the  aspect  of  the  country  to  a wonder- 


42 


MR.  BAM. 


ful  degree.  Bain  falls  seldom  or  never  at  this  place,  but 
thirsty  nature  is  relieved  by  heavy  dews.  Fresh  water  and 
fuel,  however,  two  of  the  great  necessaries  of  life,  are  found 
in  abundance. 

Sandy  and  barren  as  the  soil  appears  to  the  eye,  portions 
of  it,  nevertheless,  are  capable  of  great  fertility.  From  time 
to  time,  Mr.  Bam  has  cultivated  small  spots  of  garden  ground 
in  the  bed  of  the  river ; but,  although  many  things  thrive  ex- 
ceedingly well,  the  trouble,  risk,  and  labor  were  too  great  to 
make  it  worth  his  while  to  persevere.  A sudden  and  unex- 
pected flood,  the  effect  of  heavy  rains  in  the  interior,  often 
lays  waste  in  a few  minutes  what  has  taken  months  to  raise. 

The  principal  trees  thereabouts  are  the  ana  and  the  giraffe- 
thorn  {acacia  giraffce) ; and  the  chief  herbage,  a species  of 
sand-reed,  which  is  much  relished  by  the  cattle  when  once 
accustomed  to  it,  but  more  especially  by  horses,  mules,  and 
donkeys,  which  thrive  and  fatten  wonderfully  on  this  diet. 

During  our  stay  at  Scheppmansdorf  we  were  the  constant 
guests  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bam,  but  we  felt  almost  sorry  to  tres- 
pass on  a hospitality  that  we  knew  they  could  ill  afford,  for 
it  was  only  once  in  every  two  years  that  they  received  their 
supplies  from  the  Cape,  and  then  only  in  sufficient  quantities 
for  their  own  families.  The  genuine  sincerity,  however,  with 
whjch  it  was  offered  overruled  all  scruples. 

Mr.  Bam  had  long  been  a dweller  in  various  parts  of  Great 
Namaqua-land.*  His  present  residence,  however,  in  this  its 
western  portion,  was  of  comparatively  recent  date.  Although 
he  had  used  every  effort  to  civilize  and  Christianize  his  small 
community,  all  his  endeavors  had  hitherto  proved  nearly 
abortive ; but  as  we  become  acquainted  with  the  character 
of  the  Namaquas,  who  are  partially-civilized  Hottentots,  the 
wonder  ceases,  and  we  discover  that  they  possess  every  vice 

* The  southern  limit  of  Great  Namaqua-land  is,  at  the  present  mo- 
ment, the  Orange  River.  To  the  north  it  is  bounded  by  Damara-land, 
or  by  about  the  twenty-second  degree  of  south  latitude. 


MISSIONARY  LIFE. 


43 


of  savages,  and  none  of  their  noble  qualities.  So  long  as 
they  are  fed  and  clothed,  they  are  willing  enough  to  congre- 
gate round  the  missionary,  and  to  listen  to  his  exhortation. 

” The  moment,  however,  the  food  and  clothing  are  discontin- 
ued, their  feigned  attachment  to  his  person  and  to  his  doc- 
trines is  at  an  end,  and  they  do  not  scruple  to  treat  their 
benefactor  with  ingratitude,  and  load  him  with  abuse. 

The  missionary  is  more  or  less  dependent  on  his  own  re- 
sources. Such  assistance  as  he  obtains  from  the  natives  is 
so  trivia],  and  procured  with  so  much  trouble,  that  it  is  often 
gladly  dispensed  with.  The  good  man  is  his  own  architect, 
smith,  wheelwright,  tinker,  gardener,  &c.,  while  his  faithful 
spouse  officiates  as  nurse,  cook,  washerwoman,  and  so  forth. 
Occasionally,  to  get  the  drudgery  off  their  hands,  they  adopt 
some  poor  boy  and  girl,  who,  after  they  have  been  taught 
with  infinite  labor  to  make  themselves  useful,  and  have  ex- 
perienced nothing  but  kindness,  will  often  leave  their  pro- 
tectors abruptly,  or,  what  is  nearly  as  bad,  become  lazy  and 
indolent. 

A Namaqua,  it  would  appear,  is  not  able  to  appreciate 
kindness,  and  no  word  in  his  language,  as  far  as  I can  re- 
member, is  expressive  of  gratitude  ! The  same  is  the  case, 
as  I shall  hereafter  have  occasion  to  mention,  with  their  north- 
ern neighbors,  the  Damaras,  and  though  a sad,  it  is  never- 
theless a true  picture. 

When  wagons  were  first  introduced  into  Great  Namaqua- 
land,  they  caused  many  conjectures  and  much  astonishment 
among  the  natives,  who  conceived  them  to  be  some  gigantic 
animal  possessed  of  vitality.  A conveyance  of  this  kind,  be- 
longing to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Schmelen,  once  broke  down,  and  was 
left  sticking  in  the  sand.  One  day  a Bushman  came  to  the 
owner,  and  said  that  he  had  seen  his  u pack-ox”  standing  in 
the  desert  for  a long  time  with  a broken  leg,  and,  as  he  did 
not  observe  it  had  any  grass,  he  was  afraid  that  it  would  soon 
die  of  hunger  unless  taken  away  ! 


44 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  JOURNEY. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Preparations  for  Journey. — Breaking-in  Oxen. — Departure  from 
Scheppmansdorf. — An  infuriated  Ox. — The  Naarip  Plain.  — The 
scarlet  Flower. — The  Usab  Gorge. — The  Swakop  River. — Tracks 
of  Rhinoceros  seen. — Anecdote  of  that  Animal. — A Sunrise  in  the 
Tropics. — Sufferings  from  Heat  and  Thirst. — Arrival  at  Daviep  : 
great  resort  of  Lions. — A Horse  and  Mule  killed  by  them. — The 
Author  goes  in  pursuit. — A troop  of  Lions. — Unsuccessful  Chase. — 
Mules’  flesh  palatable. 

Mr.  Galton  had  now  so  far  altered  his  plans  that,  instead 
of  proceeding  up  the  country  with  only  one  half  of  his  par- 
ty for  the  purchase  of  cattle,  it  was  arranged  that  we  should 
make  the  journey  together.  The  wagons  and  the  bulk  of 
our  effects  were  to  be  left  at  Scheppmansdorf,  and  we  were 
only  to  take  with  us  some  few  articles  of  exchange,  a small 
quantity  of  provisions,  and  a moderate  supply  of  ammunition. 

Finding,  however,  that  the  cart  could  not  conveniently 
hold  all  our  baggage,  though  now  reduced  to  the  smallest 
^Jftitity  possible,  it  was  resolved  to  pack  a portion  on  oxen. 
These  animals,  on  account  of  their  great  hardihood,  are  in- 
valuable in  South  Africa ; the  more  so,  as  they  can  be  equal- 
ly well  used  for  draft,  the  “pack,”  or  the  “saddle.”  But  as 
we  had  no  cattle  trained  for  either  of  these  purposes,  and 
only  one  or  two  were  procurable  at  the  missionary  station, 
we  were  necessitated,  prior  to  our  departure  thence,  to  break 
in  a few.  No  easy  matter,  by-the-by;  for  oxen  are  of  a 
‘swild  and  stubborn  disposition,  and  it  requires  months  to 
make  them  tractable.  We  were,  however,  totally  at  a loss 
how  to  set  to  work. 

But  fortunately,  at  this  time,  Mr.  Galton  had  engaged  a 


BKEAKING-IN  OXEN. 


45 


Mr.  Stewardson,  tailor  by  profession,  but  now  “jack  of  all 
trades,”  to  accompany  us  up  the  country  in  the  capacity  of 
cicerone,  etc. ; and  as  this  man,  from  long  residence  among 
the  Hottentots,  was  thoroughly  conversant  with  the  myste- 
ries of  ox-breaking,  to  him,  therefore,  we  deputed  the  difficult 
task. 

At  the  end  of  a “riem,”  or  long  leather  thong,  a pretty 
large  noose  is  made,  which  is  loosely  attached  to,  or  rather 
suspended  from,  the  end  of  a slight  stick  some  five  or  six  feet 
in  length.  With  this  stick  in  his  hand,  a man,  under  shelter 
of  the  herd,  stealthily  approaches  the  ox  selected  to  be  oper- 
ated on.  When  sufficiently  near,  he  places  the  noose  (though 
at  some  little  distance  from  the  ground)  just  in  advance  of 
the  hind  feet  of  the  animal ; and  when  the  latter  steps  into 
it,  he  draws  it  tight.  The  instant  the  ox  finds  himself  in  the 
toils,  he  makes  a tremendous  rush  forward;  but,  as  several 
people  hold  the  outer  end  of  the  “ riem,”  he — in  sailor  lan- 
guage— is  quickly  “ brought  up.”  The  force  of  the  check  is 
indeed  such  as  often  to  capsize*  one  qr  more  of  the  men.  He 
now  renews  his  efforts ; he  kicks,  foams,  bellows ; and  his 
companions,  at  first  startled,  return  and  join  in  chorus ; the 
men  shout,  the  dogs  bark  furiously,  and  the  affair  becomes 
at  once  dangerous  and  highly  exciting.  The  captured  ani- 
mal not  unfrequently  grows  frantic  with  rage  and  fear, 
turns  upon  his  assailant,  when  the  only  chance  of  escape  is 
to  let  go  the  hold  of  the  “ riem.”  Usually  he  soon  exhausts 
himself  by  his  own  exertions,  when  one  or  two  men  instant- 
ly seize  him  by  the  tail,  another  thong  having  also  been 
passed  round  his  horns ; and  by  bringing  the  two  to  bear  in 
exactly  opposite  directions,  or,  in  other  words,  by  using  the 
two  as  levers  at  a right  angle  with  his  body,  he  is  easily 
brought  to  the  ground.  This  being  once  effected,  the  tail  is 
passed  between  his  legs  and  held  forcibly  down  over  his  ribs, 
and  the  head  is  twisted  on  one  side,  with  the  horns  fixed  in 
the  ground.  A short,  strong  stick,  of  peculiar  shape,  is  then 


46 


BREAKING-IN  OXEN. 


forced  through  the  cartilage  of  the  nose,  and  to  either  end 
of  this  stick  is  attached  (in  bridle  fashion)  a thin,  tough 
leathern  thong.  From  the  extreme  tenderness  of  the  nose 
he  is  now  more  easily  managed ; but  if  he  is  still  found  very 
vicious,  he  is  either  packed  in  his  prostrate  position,  or  fast- 
ened with  his  head  to  a tree,  while  two  or  three  persons 
keep  the  “riem”  tight  about  his  legs,  so  as  to  prevent  him 
from  turning  round  or  injuring  any  person  with  his  feet. 
For  the  “packing,”  however,  a more  common  and  conven- 
ient plan  is  to  secure  him  between  two  tame  oxen,  with  a 
person  placed  outside  each  of  these  animals. 

For  the  first  day  or  two,  only  a single  skin,  or  empty  bag, 
is  put  on  his  back,  which  is  firmly  secured  with  a thong 
eighty  or  ninety  feet  in  length  (those  employed  by  the  Nama- 
quas  for  the  same  purpose  are  about  twice  as  long) ; but 
bulk  as  well  as  weight  is  daily  added ; and  though  he  kicks 
and  plunges  violently,  and  sometimes  with  such  effect  as  to 
throw  off  his  pack,  the  ox  soon  becomes  more  tractable. 
Strange  enough,  those  who  show  the  most  spirit  in  the  begin- 
ning are  often  the  first  subdued.  But  an  ox  that  lies  down 
when  in  the  act  of  “packing”  him  generally  proves  the  most 
troublesome.  Indeed,  not  one  in  ten  that  does  so  is  fit  for 
any  thing. 

••have  seen  oxen  that  no  punishment,  however  severe, 
would  induce  to  rise ; not  even  the  application  of  fire.  This 
would  seem  a cruel  expedient ; but  when  it  is  remembered 
that  his  thus  remaining  immovable  is  entirely  attributable  to 
obstinacy,  and  that  a person’s  life  may  depend  on  getting 
forward,  the  application  of  this  torture  admits  of  some  excuse. 

But  even  when,  at  last,  he  has  been  trained  to  carry  the 
pack  or  the  saddle,  there  is  another  difficulty,  scarcely  less 
formidable,  to  overcome.  From  the  gregarious  habits  of  the 
ox,  he  is  unwilling  either  to  proceed  in  advance  of  the  rest, 
or  to  remain  at  any  distance  behind  his  comrades ; and  if 
there  is  no  one  to  lead,  the  whole  troop  will  instantly  come 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SCHEPPMANSDORF. 


47 


to  a stand-still.  Only  a few  can  be  trained  as  leaders. 
Such  animals  are  always  selected  as  have  a quick  step,  and 
qf  themselves  are  in  the  habit  of  keeping  ahead,  and  apart 
from  the  rest  of  the  herd.  Oxen  of  this  description  at  all 
times  hold  the  first  rank  in  a traveling  caravan. 

At  length,  after  great  exertions  and  endless  delays,  we 
were  able  to  fix  upon  the  day  for  our  departure.  Our  ar- 
rangements were  as  follows : On  the  cart,  which  was  drawn 
by  eight  mules,  we  placed  about  one  thousand  pounds,  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  guns,  presents  for  chieftains  and  others, 
articles  for  barter,  implements  of  natural  history,  bedding, 
&c.  Six  hundred  weight  (ammunition  and  provisions)  were 
besides  distributed  among  four  “ pack” -oxen  and  one  mule. 

The  object  of  the  expedition  being  entirely  for  the  purpose 
of  obtaining  cattle  for  draft  and  slaughter,  we  were  given  to 
understand  that  after  about  eight  to  ten  days’  journey  we 
should  arrive  at  some  native  villages,  where  we  might  pro- 
cure any  number  of  beasts  required.  Our  course,  as  far  as 
we  could  understand,  was  to  the  northeast,  and  through  an 
exceedingly  wild  and  sterile  part  of  the  country. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th  of  September  we  left  Schepp- 
mansdorf.  The  young  cattle  proved  exceedingly  unmanage- 
able ; and  we  had  not  been  on  the  road  many  minutes  be- 
fore a small  handsome  ox,  which  from  the  very  beginning  had 
given  us  much  trouble  in  breaking-in,  left  the  herd,  and  was 
apparently  about  retracing  his  steps  to  the  missionary  station. 
To  prevent  this,  Galton  and  I endeavored  to  head  him,  on 
which  he  set  off  at  a rapid  pace.  On  finding  himself  hard 
pressed,  however,  he  # suddenly  wheeled  round  and  rushed 
toward  my  friend  at  headlong  speed.  Thinking  it  merely  a 
demonstration,  Mr.  Galton  remained  stationary ; but  by  so 
doing  he  nearly  lost  his  life,  for  the  infuriated  beast  charged 
home.  Fortunately,  however,  his  horn  merely  grazed  my 
friend’s  leg,  though  it  inflicted  some  injury  on  the  shoulder 
of  the  horse. 


48 


THE  SCARLET  FLOWER. 


After  this  little  adventure,  we  continued  our  route  at  a 
pretty  quick  pace  over  a hard,  crisp,  gravely  country,  to- 
tally devoid  of  water,  with  scarcely  a vestige  of  vegetation. 

It  was  not  until  about  ten  o’clock  at  night,  and  after 
having  traveled  nearly  twelve  hours,  that  we  reached  a small 
granite  rock,  at  the  foot  of  which  we  succeeded  in  obtaining 
a few  pints  of  very  brackish  water.  Both  Mr.  Galton  and 
myself  were  very  tired.  In  order  to  save  the  horses,  and  to 
give  the  men  an  occasional  mount,  we  had  walked  a con- 
siderable part  of  the  way ; and  after  partaking  of  some  coffee, 
&c.,  we  quickly  resigned  our  weary  limbs  to  sleep. 

At  break  of  day  we  were  again  stirring;  and  while  the 
men  were  harnessing  the  mules,  &c.,  I ascended  the  rock, 
where  I discovered  a most  beautiful  air-plant  in  full  blossom, 
of  a bright  scarlet  color,  with  the  lower  part  of  the  interior 
of  the  corolla  tinged  with  lemon. 

The  sight  of  such  a lovely  flower  in  this  dreary  and  deso- 
late region  excited  within  me  some  emotion,  and  I now  fully 
appreciated  the  touching  expression  of  Mungo  Park,  when, 
having  in  a state  of  complete  exhaustion  thrown  himself 
down  to  die,  he  discovered  at  his  'side  a beautiful  little  moss, 
and  exclaimed,  “ Can  that  Being  who  planted,  watered,  and 
brought  to  perfection  in  this  obscure  part  of  the  world  a 
thing  which  appears  of  so  small  importance,  look  with  un- 
concern upon  the  situation  and  sufferings  of  a creature  formed 
after  his  own  image  ? Surely  not.” 

Even  the  mighty  Nimrod,  Gordon  Gumming,  whose  whole 
soul  one  would  imagine  to  be  engrossed  by  lions  and  ele- 
phants, seems  to  have  been  struck  with  equal  delight  as  my- 
self at  the  sight  of  this  charming  flower : “ In  the  heat  of 
the  chase,”  says  he,  “I  paused,  spell-bound,  to  contemplate 
with  admiration  its  fascinating  beauty.” 

We  continued  our  journey  over  the  same  sterile  plain 
(Naarip)  till  about  ten  o’clock  A.M.,  when  we  suddenly  en- 
tered a narrow  and  desolate-looking  mountain  gorge,  called 


TRACKS  OF  RHINOCEROS  SEEN. 


49 


Usab,  sloping  rapidly  toward  the  bed  of  a periodical  river. 
Here,  under  the  shade  of  a stunted  acacia,  Stewardson  rec- 
ommended us  to  “ outspan and,  leaving  our  cook  in  charge 
of  the  cart,  we  proceeded  with  the  animals  at  once  in  search 
of  water. 

For  more  than  two  miles  we  continued  to  follow  the  gorge, 
which,  as  we  approached  the  river,  assumed  a more  gloomy, 
though  perhaps  more  striking  appearance,  being  overhung 
with  towering  and  fantastically-shaped  granite  rocks.  Not- 
withstanding this,  the  river — to  which  the  natives  give  the 
name  of  Schwackaup,  or  Swakop,  as  Europeans  call  it — 
presented  a most  cheerful  and  pleasant  aspect ; for,  though 
not  flowing  at  the  time,  its  moist  bed  was  luxuriantly  over- 
grown with  grass,  creepers,  and  pretty  ice -plants.  The 
banks  on  either  side  were  also  more  or  less  lined  with  gigan- 
tic reeds,  of  a most  refreshing  color ; and  above  the  reeds 
rose  several  beautiful  trees,  such  as  the  acacia,  the  black 
ebony,  &c. 

Under  a projecting  rock,  a few  hundred  paces  from  the 
spot  where  we  struck  upon  the  river,  we  discovered  a pool  of 
excellent  water,  where  mafl  and  beast,  in  long  and  copious 
drafts,  soon  quenched  a burning  thirst.  This  being  done, 
we  indulged  in  a delicious  bath,  which  highly  refreshed  our 
fatigued  and  dusty  limbs. 

On  a lofty  and  inaccessible  rock  overhanging  the  river-bed 
I again  saw  some  of  those  beautiful  flowers  which  in  the 
early  morning  had  caused  me  so  much  delight,  and,  with  a 
well-directed  ball,  I brought  down  one  almost  to  my  feet. 

In  the  sand  we  discovered  the  broad  footprints  of  a rhinoc- 
eros. From  their  freshness  it  was  apparent  that  the  mon- 
ster had  visited  the  river-bed  during  the  preceding  night,  but 
all  our  endeavors  to  rouse  him  proved  ineffectual. 

While  still  talking  about  the  prospect  of  soon  seeing  this 
singular  animal  in  his  native  haunts,  I remembered  a story 
Mr.  Bam  had  told  us  of  a wonderful  escape  he  once  had 

C 


50 


ANECDOTE  OF  THE  RHINOCEROS. 


from  one  of  these  beasts,  and  which  I will  endeavor  to  give  in 
his  own  words. 

“ As  we  entered  the  Swakop  River  one  day,”  said  he,  “we 
observed  the  tracks  of  a rhinoceros,  and,  soon  after  unyok- 
ing our  oxen,  the  men  requested  to  be  allowed  to  go  in  search 
of  the  beast.  This  I readily  granted,  only  reserving  a native 
to  assist  me  in  kindling  the  fire  and  preparing  our  meal. 
While  we  were  thus  engaged,  we  heard  shouting  and  firing ; 
and,  on  looking  in  the  direction  whence  the  noise  proceeded, 
discovered,  to  our  horror,  a rhinoceros  rushing  furiously  at 
us  at  the  top  of  his  speed.  Our  only  chance  of  escape  was 
the  wagon,  into  which  we  hurriedly  flung  ourselves.  And 
it  was  high  time  that  we  should  seek  refuge,  for  the  next 
instant  the  enraged  brute  struck  his  powerful  horn  into  the 
6 buik-plank’  (the  bottom  boards)  with  such  force  as  to  push 
the  wagon  several  paces  forward,  although  it  was  standing 
in  very  heavy  sand.  Most  providentially,  he  attacked  the 
vehicle  from  behind ; for,  if  he  had  struck  it  on  the  side,  he 
could  hardly  have  failed  to  upset  it,  ponderous  as  it  was. 
From  the  wagon  he  made  a dash  at  the  fire,  overturning 
the  pot  we  had  placed  alongside  it,  and  scattering  the  burn- 
ing brands  in  every  direction.  Then,  without  doing  any  fur- 
ther damage,  he  proceeded  on  his  wild  career.  Unfortunate- 
ly, the  men  had  taken  with  them  all  the  guns,  otherwise,  I 
might  easily  have  shot  him  dead  on  the  spot.  The  Damara, 
however,  threw  his  assegai  at  him,  but  the  soft  iron  bent 
like  a reed  against  his  thick  and  almost  impenetrable  hide.” 

The  greater  part  of  the  afternoon  was  spent  under  the 
shade  of  some  wide-spreading  acacias,  and  in  hunting  for 
specimens  of  natural  history.  A species  of  Francolin  ( fran - 
colinus  adspersus ),  and  one  or  two  pretty  kinds  of  fly-catch- 
ers, were  among  the  day’s  spoil. 

A little  before  sunset  we  returned  to  the  camp ; and,  as 
we  were  to  continue  our  journey  on  the  morrow’s  dawn,  we 
picketed  the  mules  and  horses,  and  made  our  encampment  as 


A SUNRISE  IN  THE  TROPICS- 


51 


* snug  as  possible.  Though  the  ground  was  our  couch,  and 
the  sky  our  canopy,  we  slept  soundly,  and  awoke  early  the 
next  morning,  greatly  refreshed.  We  much  needed  this  re- 
newal of  our  vigor,  for  the  day  proved  exceedingly  trying 
both  to  men  and  cattle. 

Once  more  we  were  on  the  Naarip  plain,  though  this 
time  we  traveled  parallel  with  the  Swakop  (which  here  pur- 
sued an  easterly  course),  on  the  edge  of  those  gloomy  rocks 
through  which  its  deep  and  turbulent  channel  has  forced  its 
way. 

Just  as  we  entered  this  wild  and  dreary  waste,  the  sun 
rose  in  all  its  refulgence,  converting,  as  if  by  magic,  the 
whole  of  the  eastern  sky  into  one  mass  of  the  most  dazzling 
light — tinting  the  distant  mountains  with  a soft  vermilion, 
and  causing  the  dew-bespangled  pebbles  beneath  our  feet  to 
sparkle  like  so  many  diamonds.  He  who  has  not  witnessed 
a sunrise  or  a sunset  in  the  tropics  (rendered  the  more  re- 
markable by  the  nearly  total  absence  of  twilight)  *can  not 
form  the  least  idea  of  its  magnificence  and  splendor. 

But  alas ! these  sights,  so  lovely  to  the  eye,  are  often  fol- 
lowed by  such  intense  heats  as  to  be  nearly  insupportable  to 
the  way-worn  traveler.  We  were  now  in  the  month  of  Sep- 
tember, and  the  rays  of  the  sun,  at  noon  falling  almost  ver- 
tically on  our  heads,  caused  a fearfully  high  state  of  temper- 
ature. The  hot  sand,  moreover,  cruelly  burnt  our  feet,  and 
not  a breath  of  wind  stirred  the  glaring  and  seething  atmos- 
phere. To  complete  our  misery,  we  suffered  from  the  most 
violent  thirst,  which  our  scanty  supply  of  water,  half  boiling 
as  it  was,  could  in  y\o  way  tend  to  mitigate. 

Our  poor  animals  seemed  to  suffer  as  much  as  ourselves. 
Their  gait,  protruding  tongues,  and  drooping  heads  indicated 
great  distress.  Still  they  toiled  on,  but  slowly  and  painfully, 
through  the  sand,  which  had  now  become  soft  and  yielding. 
Long  before  we  had  accomplished  the  day’s  stage,  one  of  the 
mules  dropped  down  from  exhaustion,  and  we  were  obliged 


52 


ARRIVAL  AT  DAVIEP. 


to  leave  the  poor  animal  to  its  fate,  trusting,  however,  that 
when  the  atmosphere  should  become  a little  cooler,  it  would 
follow  on  our  track.  We  dared  not  stop,  nor  would  delay 
have  been  of  any  avail,  for  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach 
neither  bush  nor  blade  of  grass  was  to  be  seen. 

In  the  early  morning  I rode  one  of  the  horses,  but  after  a 
time,  observing  that  some  of  the  men  looked  jaded  and  faint, 
I dismounted,  and  gave  it  up  to  them,  proceeding  myself  on 
foot  during  the  remainder  of  the  day.  Mr.  Galton  had  rid- 
den in  advance  on  the  other  shore,  and  when  we  met  I was 
almost  speechless  from  thirst,  with  my  mouth  and  lips  dread- 
fully parched.  Often  subsequently  have  I suffered  cruelly 
from  want  of  water,  and  for  a much  longer  period  than  on 
the  present  occasion,  but  never  do  I remember  to  have  been 
so  much  distressed  as  now;  for  though  from  childhood  ac- 
customed and  inured  to  privations  of  all  kinds,  I had  not  pre- 
viously experienced  the  effect  of  thirst  under  a tropical  sun. 

Again  we  left  our  cart  some  little  way  from  the  river,  and 
drove  the  thirsty  and  weary  animals  loose  to  the  water,  which 
was  fortunately  not  far  distant ; but,  though  men  and  beasts 
drank  to  repletion,  the  water  seemed  to  have  lost  its  prop- 
erty, for  our  best  endeavors  to  slake  our  thirst  proved  una- 
vailing. 

The  name  of  the  place  was  Daviep,  and  it  was  reported 
to  be  a favorite  resort  of  lions,  who  regularly  reared  their 
young  in  a neighboring  mountain,  called  Tineas,  whence  they 
made  predatory  excursions.  We  accordingly  lost  no  time  in 
reconnoitring  the  ground;  but,  not  finding  any  indications 
of  the  presence  of  lions,  or  even  that  they  had  haunted  the 
place  lately,  we  had  little  apprehension  of  their  paying  us  a 
visit;  and  as  the  mules  and  horses  sadly  wanted  rest  and 
food,  we  deemed  it  advisable  to  leave  them  to  themselves 
during  the  night,  merely  taking  the  precaution  to  “knee- 
halter”  them.  We  paid  dearly,  however,  for  our  too  easy 
confidence. 


A HORSE  AND  MULE  KILLED  BY  LIONS.  53 

As,  on  our  return  to  the  cart  in  the  evening,  the  mule  that 
had  been  left  behind  in  the  course  of  the  day  had  not  yet 
made  her  appearance,  I and  Stewardson,  each  mounting  an 
ox,  returned  to  the  spot  where  she  had  last  been  seen.  The 
animal,  however,  had  disappeared ; and  finding  that  her 
tracks  led  toward  the  river,  where  it  would  have  been  next 
to  madness  to  follow  her  in  the  dark,  we  retraced  our  steps 
at  once,  trusting  that  instinct,  which  had  made  her  go  in 
search  of  water,  would  also  be  a guide  in  seeking  her  com- 
panions. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  one  of  the  wagon-drivers 
was  dispatched  to  the  river  to  look  after  our  animals,  while 
Mr.  Galton  and  myself  followed  at  our  ease ; but  what  was 
our  horror,  on  entering  the  bed  of  the  stream,  to  find  that 
several  lions  had  recently  passed  and  repassed  it  in  every  di- 
rection! This,  together  with  the  absence  of  the  mules  and 
horses,  at  once  foreboded  evil.  We 'were  not  long  left  to 
conjectures,  for  almost  immediately  our  servant  joined  us, 
and  said  that  a mule  and  a horse  had  been  killed  by  the 
lions,  and  partly  devoured.  He  added,  that  on  his  approach- 
ing the  scene  of  the  catastrophe,  he  saw  five  of  those  beasts 
feasting  on  the  carcasses,  but  on  perceiving  him  they  had 
retreated  with  terrible  growlings ! Instead  of  his  presence 
having  scared  the  lions  from  their  prey,  however,  as  he  as- 
serted, we  had  reason  to  believe  that,  so  soon  as  he  was 
aware  of  them,  he  immediately  hid  himself  among  the  rocks, 
and  that  it  was  not  until  emboldened  by  seeing  us  he  had 
left  his  hiding-place.  Had  it  been  otherwise,  he  would  have 
had  ample  time  to  give  us  notice  of  what  had  occurred  prior 
to  our  leaving  the  encampment. 

Singularly  enough,  the  dead  mule  was  the  identical  one 
we  had  been  in  search  of  on  the  preceding  night,  and  it 
would  appear  that  it  had  just  rejoined  its  companions,  or  was 
on  the  point  of  doing  so,  when  it  was  attacked  and  killed. 
Being  a remarkably  fine  and  handsome  animal,  its  loss  was 


54 


THE  AUTHOR  GOES  IN  PURSUIT. 


much  regretted:  the  horse,  moreover,  was  the  best  of  the 
two  we  had  brought  from  the  Cape. 

On  examining  the  ground,  we  were  glad  to  find  that  the 
other  horse  and  remaining  mule  had  made  good  their  escape 
down  the  bed  of  the  river,  though  evidently  pursued  by  the 
lions  for  some  distance.  How  many  of  these  beasts  there 
really  had  been  we  were  unable  to  ascertain,  but  they  could 
not  have  been  less  than  seven  or  eight. 

Having  thus  far  ascertained  the  fate  of  the  poor  animals, 
we  dispatched  our  brave  wagon-driver  for  Stewardson  and 
the  remainder  of  the  men,  as  also  for  proper  guns  and 
ammunition,  as  we  had  determined,  if  possible,  to  have  our 
revenge. 

On  leaving  Scheppmansdorf,  we  had,  unfortunately,  only 
brought  with  us  three  or  four  small  goats  as  provision  for  the 
journey.  This  scanty  supply  was  now  nearly  exhausted,  and 
it  being  uncertain  when  we  should  meet  with  any  native 
village  where  we  could  barter  for  more,  we  deemed  it  ad- 
visable, in  order  to  provide  against  contingencies,  to  lay  in  a 
store  of  mule-flesh  and  horse-flesh ; and  though  our  people 
seemed  horror-stricken  at  the  idea,  there  was  not  a second 
alternative.  While  waiting  the  return  of  the  men,  we  ac- 
cordingly set  about  cutting  off  from  the  slain  animals  such 
pieces  as  had  not  been  defiled  by  the  lions.  This  being 
accomplished,  we  covered  the  meat  with  a heap  of  stones, 
and  the  men  having  arrived,  we  proceeded  in  search  of  the 
depredators. 

But,  though  we  beat  both  sides  of  the  river  for  a consider- 
able distance,  we  were  unable  to  discover  the  beasts.  At 
one  time,  and  when  I was  quite  alone  on  the  inner  side  of 
the  thick  reed-bed  that  lined  the  bank,  I observed  some 
beautiful  “ klip -springers,”  or  mountain  gazelles,  and  fired  both 
barrels,  though,  unfortunately,  without  effect.  The  report  of 
my  gun  caused  a momentary  consternation  to  Mr.  Galton 
and  the  men,  who  imagined  that  I had  fallen  in  with  the 


TROOP  OP  LIONS. 


55 


lions,  while,  from  the  nature  of  the  ground,  they  would  have 
been  unable  to  render  me  any  assistance. 

Being  at  last  obliged  to  give  up  the  search,  two  or  three 
of  the  men  on  whom  we  could  best  depend  were  sent  on  the 
tracks  of  the  scared  mules  and  the  remaining  horse.  After 
many  hours’  hard  walking  they  were  discovered,  but  the 
poor  beasts  had  received  such  a fright  that  it  was  only  with 
great  trouble  and  exertion  that  they  were  secured. 

Thinking  that  the  lions  would  in  all  probability  return 
during  the  night  to  make  an  end  of  what  was  left  of  the 
horse  and  mule,  Galton  and  I determined  to  watch  for  them, 
and  selected  for  our  ambush  the  summit  of  a steep  rock  im- 
mediately near  one  of  the  carcasses. 

Shortly  after  sunset  we  proceeded  to  put  our  plan  into 
execution,  and,  having  arrived  within  a short  distance  of 
the  slain  animals,  one  of  the  people  suddenly  exclaimed,  “ Oh ! 
look  at  the  six  bucks!”  Imagine  our  astonishment  when, 
turning  our  eyes  in  the  direction  to  which  he  pointed,  we  saw, 
instead  of  antelopes,  six  magnificent  lions  ; and  this,  more- 
over, on  the  very  rock  on  which  we  had  purposed  ambush- 
ing ourselves,  and  where,  as  we  foolishly  imagined,  we  should 
have  been  in  perfect  security  ! 

On  perceiving  that  they  were  discovered,  the  beasts  re- 
treated behind  the  rock,  but  one  or  another  of  them  would 
nevertheless  steal  from  its  hiding-place  occasionally  and  take 
a peep  at  us. 

Contrary  to  the  counsel  of  Mr.  Galton  and  others  of  our 
party,  I now  ascended  the  acclivity  where  we  had  last  seen 
the  beasts ; but,  although  they  were  nowhere  visible,  I had 
every  reason  to  believe  the  whole  troop  was  not  far  distant 
from  the  spot  where  I stood. 

To  have  ambushed  ourselves  in  the  rock  originally  select- 
ed was  (from  the  evidence  we  had  just  had  of  its  insecurity) 
not  now  to  be  thought  of,  and  we  therefore  looked  out  for  a 
safer  place.  The  only  one  that  offered,  however,  was  a large 


56 


MR.  HAHN MULES’  FLESH  PALATABLE. 


acacia ; but  it  was  more  than  two  hundred  yards  from  either 
of  the  carcasses,  and  its  stem  was  so  thick  and  straight  that 
it  was  impossible  to  ascend  it.  Moreover,  total  darkness  had 
now  succeeded  the  short  twilight ; and,  however  reluctant- 
ly, we  left  the  lions  in  full  possession  of  the  field  and  the  rem- 
nant of  their  prey. 

On  returning  to  our  encampment,  we  found  a wagon  had 
arrived,  belonging  to  Mr.  Hahn,  a missionary  of  the  Rhenish 
Society,  settled  among  the  Damaras.  The  vehicle  was  on  its 
road  to  Scheppmansdorf,  in  order  to  fetch  some  goods  that 
had  recently  arrived  from  the  Cape.  The  driver  civilly  sup- 
plied us  with  a few  sheep,  which,  to  the  great  joy  of  our  peo- 
ple, enabled  us  to  dispense  with  the  store  of  horse-flesh  and 
mule-flesh  we  had  just  laid  in.  We  did  not,  however,  throw 
the  meat  away  altogether,  for  both  Mr.  Galton  and  myself 
subsequently  dined  upon  it  on  more  than  one  occasion,  and 
really  found  it  very  palatable,  more  especially  that  of  the 
horse. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Gnoo  and  the  Gemsbok. — Pursuit  of  a Rhinoceros.-— Venomous 
Ply. — Fruit  of  the  Acacia  nutritious. — Sun-stroke. — Crested  Parrot. 
— A Giraffe  shot. — Tjobis  Fountain. — Singular  Omelet. — Nutritious 
Gum. — Arrival  at  Richterfeldfc. — Mr.  Rath  and  the  Missions. — The 
Damaras : their  Persons,  Habits,  &c. — Lions  Troublesome.-— Panic. 
--Horse  Sickness. 

The  second  morning  after  the  adventure  with  the  lions 
we  continued  our  journey,  alternately  on  the  banks  and  in 
the  bed  of  the  Swakop.  The  road  was  exceedingly  heavy, 
being  for  the  most  part  composed  of  loose  gravel  and  fine 
sand.  Stewardson,  who  had  the  management  of  our  travel- 
ing arrangements,  instead  of  starting  us  at  daybreak,  or 
previously,  as  he  ought  to  have  done,  did  not  put  the  caval- 
cade in  motion  until  an  hour  after  sunrise.  The  consequence 


PURSUIT  OP  A RHINOCEROS. 


57 


was,  that  before  we  were  half  through  the  allotted  stage  the 
sun  had  reached  its  zenith,  and  scorched  and  harassed  us 
dreadfully. 

As  yet,  with  the  exception  of  a few  zebras,  &c.,  we  had 
seen  no  wild  animals,  though  the  “spoor”  or  track  of  the 
gnoo  and  the  gemsbok  were  frequent  enough.  This  day, 
however,  at  a turn  of  the  road,  we  came  suddenly  upon  a 
few  of  the  latter,  but  the  sight  so  fascinated  us  that,  instead 
of  firing,  as  we  might  have  done,  for  they  were  within  range, 
we  gazed  at  them  in  astonishment. 

We  passed  the  night  at  a fountain  called  Annis,  situated 
on  the  side  of  the  river.  On  the  following  morning,  and  at 
only  a few  hundred  paces  from  our  bivouac,  we  discovered 
the  tracks  of  several  rhinoceroses.  Finding  that  one  of  these 
animals  had  been  drinking  in  a pool  hard  by  during  the 
latter  part  of  the  night,  Galton,  Stewardson,  and  myself 
went  in  search  of  the  beast,  the  cart  following  in  the  bed  of 
the  river.  But,  though  we  pursued  the  tracks  of  the  animal 
at  a pretty  rapid  pace  for  nearly  three  hours,  we  were  un- 
able to  come  up  with  him,  and  therefore  discontinued  the 
chase  in  despair  and  rejoined  our  caravan. 

During  the  following  day  I observed  several  curious-look- 
ing  crested  parrots  of  a grayish  color,  which  screamed  dis- 
cordantly on  our  approach;  but  as  they  always  perched  on 
the  top  of  the  very  highest  trees,  and  kept  an  excellent  look- 
out, I could  not  possibly  get  within  gunshot. 

I met,  besides,  with  a vast  number  of  delicate  and  pretty 
butterflies,  as  also  a wasp-looking  fly  of  the  most  brilliant 
dark  blue.  Having  struck  one  of  these  to  the  ground,  I was 
about  to  secure  it,’ when  it  stung  me  severely  in  the  hand, 
and  in  a very  few  seconds  the  wounded  part  began  to  fester, 
and  swelled  to  an  enormous  size,  causing  the  most  acute  pain. 

While  following  the  bed  of  the  river,  our  mules  and  cattle 
fared  sumptuously ; for,  although  we  found  but  little  grass, 
there  was  always  an  abundance  of  fine  young  reeds ; but, 

C 2 


58 


THE  ACACIA-TREE SUN-STROKE. 


until  animals  are  accustomed  to  tliis  diet,  it  only  serves  to 
weaken  them.  Cattle,  however,  that  are  used  to  this  coarse 
food  soon  become  fat,  and  when  killed  prove,  contrary  to 
what  might  be  expected,  capital  eating.  When  the  reeds 
become  somewhat  old  and  dry  they  are  fired  by  the  natives, 
and  in  a fortnight  or  three  weeks  they  have  again  attained 
a luxuriant  growth. 

The  pods  of  a species  of  acacia  ( ana ),  which  had  drop- 
ped from  the  trees,  were  also  much  relished  by  the  cattle. 
Stewardson  informed  us  that  when  the  latter  are  able  to  feed 
on  them  regularly,  they  soon  become  fat.  The  fruit  has  an 
acrid  taste,  but  is  not  altogether  unpalatable. 

The  wood  of  this  tree,  though  straight-grained,  close,  and 
weighty,  is  not  considered  good  for  implements  of  husbandry. 
I have  been  assured,  however,  that  when  the  tree  is  burned 
down  the  quality  of  the  wood  is  much  improved ! 

Stewardson’ s habit  of  starting  late  had  nearly  proved  fatal 
to  me;  for  one  day,  while  pursuing  on  foot  some  interesting 
birds,  I had  fallen  considerably  behind  my  companions,  and, 
in  order  to  come  up  with  them,  I was  necessitated  to  put  my 
best  foot  forward.  The  sun’s  rays  (in  themselves  exceedingly 
powerful)  being  reflected  from  the  surrounding  barren  hills 
and  the  burning  sand,  made  the  heat  equal  to  that  of  an 
oven. 

I had  only  just  caught  sight  of  our  party,  when  I was 
seized  with  sudden  giddiness,  and  the  horrible  idea  flashed 
across  my  mind  that  I had  received  a u sun-stroke.”  Being 
fully  aware  of  the  danger,  I collected  all  my  energies,  and 
made  tile  most  strenuous  efforts  to  overtake  my  friend.  But 
the  stupor  increased  every  moment,  and  my  voice  became  so 
faint  that  for  a long  time  I was  unable  to  make  myself 
heard.  However,  I did  at  last  succeed,  and  Galton  at  once 
rode  up  to  me  and  placed  his  horse  at  my  disposal.  It  was 
high  time,  for  another  minute  would  probably  have  proved 
too  late.  As  it  was,  I managed  with  great  difficulty  to  reach 


CRESTED  PARROT GIRAFFE  SHOT. 


59 


a small  clump  of  trees  hard  by,  and,  tumbling  off  the  animal, 
remained  for  some  time  in  a state  of  almost  total  unconscious- 
ness. When  at  last  I recovered  from  this  stupor,  the  heat 
was  less,  and  a gentle  breeze  having  sprung  up,  I was  able 
slowly  to  proceed.  My  head,  however,  ached  intolerably. 

The  usual  result  of  a coup  de  soleil  is  known  to  be  either 
almost  instantaneous  death,  or  an  affection  of  the  brain  for 
life*  In  my  case  I expected  nothing  short  of  the  latter  in- 
diction.  Happily,  however,  after  about  several  months  daily 
suffering  I was  thoroughly  restored,  and  in  time  I could  brave 
heat  and  fatigue  as  well  as  any  native. 

Having  followed  the  course  of  the  Swakop  for  some  days, 
we  struck  into  one  of  its  tributaries  called  Tjobis.  At  the 
mouth  of  this  stream  we  met,  for  the  first  time,  with  a vast 
number  of  Guinea-fowls,  which  we  afterward  found  very 
common  throughout  the  country.  We  also  made  acquaint- 
ance with  one  or  two  species  of  toucans ; and  I succeeded,  at 
last,  in  obtaining  several  specimens  of  the  parrot-looking 
birds  of  which  mention  has  lately  been  made.  They  were 
the  chizoerhis  concolor  of  Doctor  Smith. 

After  many  hours  of  fatiguing  travel  we  met  Galton,  who 
had  ridden  on  in  advance.  His  face  beamed  with  delight 
while  announcing  to  us  that  he  had  just  killed  a fine  giraffe. 
The  news  was  most  welcome  to  every  one ; for,  to  say  noth- 
ing of  the  prospect  of  a feast,  the  heat  of  the  sun  and  the 
heavy  nature  of  the  ground  made  us  all  feel  exceedingly 
weary,  and  we  were,  therefore,  extremely  glad  of  a pretext 
to  take  some  repose. 

The  mules  were  forthwith  unharnessed,  and  ail  hands 
were  put  in  requisition  to  cut  up  our  prize  and  to  “ jerk”  the 
meat ; but  this  proved  lean  and  tough. 

The  bones,  however,  of  the  giraffe  contain  a great  deal  of 
marrow,  which,  when  properly  prepared,  is  eaten  with  gusto 
by  every  one,  and  even  when  in  a raw  state  is  sometimes 
greedily  devoured  by  the  natives. 


60 


TJOBIS  FOUNTAIN — -SINGULAR  OMELET. 


As  there  was  no  water  where  we  had  “ outspanned,”  we 
were  obliged  toward  evening  to  continue  our  journey ; and 
when  we  arrived  at  “ Tjobis  Fountain,”  situated  in  the  bed 
of  the  Tjobis  River,  it  was  already  dark. 

Here  we  were  at  once  visited  by  several  Hill-Damaras,  of 
whom  more  hereafter.  On  finding  that  a giraffe  had  been 
killed  and  that  they  were  at  liberty  to  take  what  flesh  we 
had  left,  their  joy  knew  no  bounds,  and  some  of  them  actu- 
ally returned  that  same  night  to  the  carcass.  These  men 
kindly  brought  us  some  sweet  gum,  a kind  of  coarse  stir- 
about made  from  the  seeds  of  a species  of  grass,  and  a few 
ostrich  eggs. 

Our  cook  soon  made  us  an  excellent  omelet  from  one  of 
the  last,  and  that  by  a very  simple  process.  A hole  is  made 
at  one  end  of  the  egg,  through  which  is  introduced  some 
salt,  pepper,  &c.  The  egg  is  then  well  shaken,  so  as  thor- 
oughly to  mix  the  white,  the  yolk,  and  the  several  ingre- 
dients mentioned.  It  is  then  placed  in  the  hot  ashes,  where 
it  is  baked  to  perfection.  An  egg  thus  prepared,  although 
supposed  to  contain  as  much  as  twenty -four  of  the  common 
fowl  egg,  is  not  considered  too  much  for  a single  hungry  in- 
dividual ! 

We  remained  nearly  two  days  at  “ Tjobis  Fountain,” 
which  gave  our  animals  time  to  recover  a little  from  their 
late  exhaustion  ; but  as  it  was  reported  to  be  another  favor- 
ite resort  of  lions,  and  recollecting  that  we  had  lately  been 
taught  a severe  lesson,  we  took  the  precaution — as  may  well 
be  imagined — to  secure  the  horse  and  the  mules  during  the 
night.  Many  zebras  came  off  in  the  dark  to  drink,  but  al- 
ways absented  themselves  during  the  day,  and  the  heat  was 
too  intense  and  harassing  for  pursuing  them  at  a distance. 

The  soil  continued  sandy  as  before,  but  the  vegetation 
had,  notwithstanding,  vastly  improved ; for,  instead  of  naked 
and  desolate  plains,  the  ground  was  now  covered  with  a pro- 
fusion of  thin  grass,  dwarfish  shrubs,  isolated  aloes,  and  one 


NUTRITIOUS  GUM ARRIVAL  AT  RICHTERFELDT.  61 

or  two  species  of  thorn  trees.  The  latter  produced  at  this 
season  an  abundance  of  excellent  and  nutritious  gum,  which, 
though  almost  as  sweet . as  sugar,  might  be  partaken  of  in 
any  quantity  without  the  least  inconvenience  or  disagreeable 
consequence. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  we  took  our  departure 
from  “ Tjobis  Fountain,”  and  at  an  early  hour  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  found  ourselves  once  more  in  the  bed  of  the 
Swakop  ; but  here,  unfortunately,  our  mules  came  to  a dead 
stand-still,  and  nothing  could  induce  them  to  proceed  any 
further.  Indeed,  they  were  completely  knocked  up,  and  we 
had  entirely  to  thank  Stewardson  for  this  misfortune ; for 
had  we  traveled  by  night,  as  we  ought  to  have  done,  instead 
of  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  the  poor  creatures 
might  have  been  as  fresh  as  when  they  left  Scheppmansdorf, 
and  we  ourselves  spared  much  suffering.  It  stands  to  rea- 
son that  no  animal,  however  hardy,  will  bear  much  work  or 
fatigue  in  the  day  at  this  terribly  hot  season  of  the  year. 
Fortunately,  the  missionary  station  of  Richterfeldt  was  now 
within  two  hours’  ride,  and  Galton  at  once  pushed  on  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  assistance.  In  a short  time,  six 
oxen,  with  attendants,  yokes,  &c.,  arrived,  and  we  were  able 
to  prosecute  our  journey  without  further  delay.'  On  reach- 
ing the  station,  we  were  most  kindly  and  hospitably  received 
by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Rath,  of  the  Rhenish  Society. 

Richterfeldt  is  prettily  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  River 
Swakop,  and  at  the  junction  of  one  of  its  tributaries,  the 
Ommutenna.  It  is  well  supplied  with  fresh  water,  which  is 
either  obtained  from  a prolific  mineral  spring,  or  by  digging 
a few  inches  in  the  bed  of  the  rivers.  There  is  an  abundance 
of  garden  ground,  which,  when  properly  cultivated  and  irri- 
gated, is  exceedingly  productive.  Nearly  all  European  vege- 
tables thrive  well ; wheat  grows  to  perfection,  and  is  of  excel- 
lent quality ; but  here,  as  at  Scheppmansdorf,  floods  at  times 
cause  sad  havoc.  The  pasturages  are  extensive  and  excellent. 


62 


MISSIONARY  STATION THE  DAMARAS. 


Richterfeldt  was  founded  in  1848,  and  Mr.  Rath  had 
consequently  not  been  very  long  settled  there.  He  had 
taken  up  his  quarters  in  a temporary  hut,  consisting  of  a 
mud  wall  four  feet  high,  covered  over  by  mat-work  and 
canvas.  At  the  back  of  his  house  were  three  small  native 
villages,  composed  of  about  fifty  or  sixty  wretched  hovels, 
and  numbering — children  included — about  two  hundred  in- 
habitants. They  were  all  very  poor ; but  a few  possessed  a 
small  drove  of  sheep  or  goats,  which  they  obtained  in  barter 
for  goods  given  them  by  the  missionary  as  recompense  for 
labor,  errands,  and  other  services.  The  currency  is  iron- 
ware : the  regular  price  for  an  ox,  at  this  time,  was  an  iron 
assegai,  without  the  handle ; that  of  a sheep  or  goat,  a cer- 
tain quantity  of  iron  or  copper  wire,  or  two  pieces  of  iron 
hoop,  each  five  or  six  inches  in  length.  The  Damaras  have 
a perfect  mania  for  copper  and  iron,  but  more  especially  for 
the  latter ; and  it  is  strange  to  see  how  well  a few  pieces  of 
polished  iron  become  them,  when  worn  as  ornaments. 

The  Damaras,  speaking  generally,  are  an  exceedingly  fine 
race  of  men.  Indeed,  it  is  by  no  means  unusual  to  meet 
with  individuals  six  feet  and  some  inches  in  height,  and  sym- 
metrically proportioned  withal.  Their  features  are,  besides, 
good  and  regular ; and  many  might  serve  as  perfect  models 
of  the  human  figure.  Their  air  and  carriage,  moreover,  is 
very  graceful  and  expressive.  But,  though  their  outward 
appearance  denotes  great  strength,  they  can  by  no  means 
compare,  in  this  respect,  with  even  moderately  strong  Euro- 
peans. 

The  complexion  of  these  people  is  dark,  though  not  en- 
tirely black ; but  great  difference  is  observable  in  this  respect. 
Hence,  in  their  own  language,  they  distinguish  between  the 
Ovathorondu — the  black  individuals — and  Ovatherandu , or  red 
ones.  Their  eyes  are  black,  but  the  expression  is  rather  soft. 

I never  saw  any  albinos  in  Damara-land,  though  such  are 
said  to  occur  among  the  Caffres. 


THE  DAM  All  AS. 


63 


DAMABAS. 


64 


COSTUME. 


The  women  are  often  of  the  most  delicate  and  symmetrical 
shape,  with  full  and  rounded  forms,  and  very  small  hands 
and  feet.  Nevertheless,  from  their  precarious  mode  of  life, 
and  constant  exposure  to  the  sun,  &c.,  any  beauty  they  pos- 
sess is  soon  lost ; and,  in  a more  advanced  age,  many  become 
the  most  hideous  of  human  beings. 

Both  sexes  are  exceedingly  filthy  in  their  habits.  Dirt 
often  accumulates  to  such  a degree  on  their  persons  as  to 
make  the  color  of  their  skin  totally  indistinguishable ; while, 
to  complete  the  disguise,  they  smear  themselves  with  a pro- 
fusion of  red  ochre  and  grease.  Hence  the  exhalation  hover- 
ing about  them  is  disgusting  in  the  extreme. 

Neither  men  nor  women  wear  much  clothing.  Their  ha- 
biliments consist  merely  of  a skin  or  two  of  sheep  or  goats, 
with  the  hair  on  or  off,  which  they  wrap  loosely  round  the 
waist,  or  throw  across  the  shoulders.  These  skins,  as  with 
their  own  limbs,  are  besmeared  with  large  quantities  of  red 
ochre  and  grease,  and  with  the  wealthier  classes  are  orna- 
mented with  coarse  iron  and  copper  beads,  of  various  size. 

The  men  usually  go  bareheaded;  but,  in  case  of  cold 
or  rain,  they  wear  a sort  of  cap,  or  rather  piece  of  skin, 
which  they  can  convert  into  any  shape  or  size  that  fancy 
may  dictate. 

Independently  of  the  skins,  the  women  wear  a kind  of  bod- 
ice, made  from  thousands  of  little  rounded  pieces  of  ostrich 
egg-shells  strung  on  threads,  seven  or  eight  such  strings  be- 
ing fastened  together ; but  I am  not  sure  that  it  is  not  more 
for  ornament  than  real  utility.  The  head-dress  of  the  mar- 
ried women  is  curious  and  highly  picturesque,  being  not  un- 
like a helmet  in  shape  and  general  appearance. 

Boys  are  usually  seen  in  a state  of  almost  absolute  nudity. 
The  girls,  however,  wear  a kind  of  apron,  cut  up  into  a num- 
ber of  fine  strings,  which  are  sometimes  ornamented  with  iron 
and  copper  beads. 

Few  ornaments  are  worn  by  the  men,  who  prefer  seeing 


PERSONAL  DECORATION WEAPONS.  65 

them  on  the  persons  of  their  wives  and  daughters.  They  de- 
light, however,  in  an  amazing  quantity  of  thin  leathern 
“ riems”  (forming  also  part  of  their  dress),  which  they  wind 
around  their  loins  in  a negligent  and  graceful  manner.  These 
“ riems” — -which  are  often  many  hundred  feet  in  length — 
serve  as  a receptacle  for  their  knobsticks  or  kieries,  their  ar- 
rows, &c.,  but  become,  at  the  same  time,  a refuge  for  the 
most  obnoxious  insects. 

The  women,  when  they  can  afford  it,  wear  a profusion  of 
iron  and  copper  rings — those  of  gold  or  brass  are  held  in  little 
estimation — round  their  waists  and  ankles. 

The  weapons  of  the  Damaras  are  the  assegai,  the  kierie, 
and  the  bow  and  arrow;  they  have  also  a few  guns. 

The  head  of  the  assegai  consists  of  iron,  and  is  usually  kept 
well  polished ; being,  moreover,  of  a soft  texture,  it  is  easily 
sharpened,  or  repaired,  if  out  of  order.  The  shaft,  though, 
at  times,  also  made  of  iron,  is  commonly  of  wood,  the  end  be- 
ing usually  ornamented  with  a bushy  ox-taik  On  account 
of  its  great  breadth,  the  assegai  is  not  well  adapted  for  stab- 
bing, and  its  weight  is  such  that  it  can  not  be  thrown  to  any 
considerable  distance.  This  weapon,  in  short,  is  chiefly  used 
instead  of  a knife,  and,  though  rather  an  awkward  substitute, 
it  answers  the  purpose  tolerably  welh 

The  kierie  is  a favorite  weapon  with  the  Damaras.  They 
handle  it  with  much  adroitness,  and  kill  birds  and  small 
quadrupeds  with  surprising  dexterity.  Most  savage  tribes  in 
Southern  Africa  use  this  instrument  with  great  advantage 
and  effect.  Thus,  in  speaking  of  the  Matabili,  Harris  says, 
u They  rarely  miss#  a partridge  or  a Guinea-fowl  on  the 
wing.”  In  an  experienced  hand,  the  kierie  becomes  a most 
dangerous  and  effective  weapon,  as  a single  well-directed, 
blow  is  sufficient  to  lay  low  the  strongest  man. 

The  bow  and  arrow,  on  the  other  hand,  though  a constant 
companion,  is  not,  with  the  Damaras,  as  effective  as  it  ought 
to  be.  They  never  attain  perfection  in  archery.  At  ten  or 


66 


DIVISION  OP  TRIBES LIONS  TROUBLESOME. 


a dozen  yards  they  will  shoot  tolerably  well,  but  beyond 
that  distance  they  are  wretched  marksmen. 

The  Damaras  are  divided  into  two  large  tribes,  the  Ovahe- 
rero  and  the  Ovapantiereu , of  which  the  former  lives  nearest 
to  the  sea ; still,  with  the  exception  of  a slight  difference  in 
the  language,  they  appear  to  be  one  and  the  same  people. 
They  may  again  be  divided  into  rich  and  poor  Damaras,*  or 
those  who  subsist  on  the  produce  of  their  herds,  and  those 
who  have  no  cattle,  or  at  least  very  few,  and  who  live  chief- 
ly by  the  chase,  and  what  wild  fruit  and  roots  they  can  pick 
up  abroad.  These  are  called  Ovatjimba , and  are  looked  upon 
with  the  utmost  contempt  by  the  prosperous  classes,  who  re- 
duce them  to  a state  of  slavery,  and  do  not  even  scruple  to 
take  their  lives. 

But,  as  the  Damaras  are  little  known  to  Europeans,  much 
is  to  be  said  of  them,  and  they  will  require  a chapter  to 
themselves.  I shall,  therefore,  reserve  a more  detailed  ac- 
count of  their  peculiarities,  customs,  manners,  &c.,  to  a later 
period,  when  I became  better  acquainted  with  them  and  their 
country. 

In  consequence  of  an  unusually  severe  drought  this  year, 
most  of  the  rain-pools  in  the  neighborhood  of  Bichterfeldt 
were  dried  up ; but  as  spring- water  was  still  to  be  found  at 
that  place,  a great  number  of  wild  animals  nightly  congre- 
gated there.  As  usual  under  such  circumstances,  the  game 
was  followed  by  troops  of  lions,  who  were  a constant  annoy- 
ance to  us.  To  guard  against  their  attacks,  we  had  on  our 
first  arrival  made  a strong  fence  or  inclosure  round  the 
camp,  but  even  then  we  did  not  feel  very  secure. 

One  evening  these  beasts  were  more  than  usually  trouble- 
some. The  sun  had  hardly  sunk  below  the  horizon  when 
they  began  their  terror-striking  music,  and  kept  it  up  with- 

* To  prevent  confusion,  when  speaking  hereafter  of  these  people,  I 
shall  simply  call  them  Damaras,  in  contradistinction  to  the  Hill-Da- 
xnaras,  who  are  a totally  different  race  of  natives. 


THE  LIONS— A PANIC. 


67 


out  intermission  till  a late  hour,  when  all  became  silent.  Be- 
lieving that  they  had  taken  themselves  off,  I sent  the  men 
who  had  been  watching  to  sleep.  I was,  however,  deceived ; 
for  two  hours  had  hardly  elapsed  when  within  a short  dis- 
tance of  our  encampment,  there  arose  a most  horrible  roar- 
ing, intermingled  with  the  rushing  to  and  fro,  the  kicking, 
plunging,  and  neighing  of  a troop  of  zebras,  which  instantly 
brought  every  man  to  his  feet,  and  the  consternation  and 
confusion  became  indescribable.  Some  of  them  rushed  about 
like  maniacs,  lamenting  most  piteously  that  they  ever  left 
the  Cape.  Others  convulsively  grasped  their  blankets  in 
their  arms,  and  cried  like  children ; while  a few  stood  motion- 
less, with  fear  and  anguish  depicted  in  their  countenances. 
It  was  in  vain  that  I tried  to  calm  their  agitation.  They 
seemed  fully  convinced  that  their  last  hour  had  come,  and 
that  they  should  perish  miserably  by  the  fangs  of  wild  beasts. 

On  going  just  outside  the  inclosure,  I could  distinctly  see 
the  glimmering  of  lions’  eyes,  as  our  small,  well-kept  bivouac- 
fire  fell  full  upon  them.  I sent  a ball  or  two  after  the  in- 
truders, but,  as  it  appeared  afterward,  without  effect. 

The  next  morning  we  found  that  the  zebras  had  escaped 
unscathed,  and  we  attributed  the  unusual  anger  and  ferocity 
of  their  pursuers  to  the  disappointment  they  had  experienced 
in  losing  their  favorite  prey. 

We  had  only  been  a short  time  at  Bichterfeldt  when  three 
of  our  mules,  and  the  remaining  horse,  were  seized  with  a 
mortal  disease,  and  in  the  course  of  a few  hours  they  all  died. 
Though  the  loss  of  the  animals  was  great  to  us,  their  death 
was  a god-send  to  the  poor  Damaras,  who  devoured  the  car- 
casses bodily,  and  without  the  least  disagreeable  result. 

The  distemper  in  question  is  usually  known  by  the  vague 
name  of  “ paarde-sikte”  (the  horse-sickness) ; and,  as  the 
cause  is  totally  unknown,  no  remedy  has  yet  been  found 
efficient  to  stop  it.  Throughout  Great  Namaqua-land  it  is 
particularly  fatal.  Some  people  attribute  this  singular  dis- 


68 


HORSE-SICKNESS HANS  LARSEN. 


ease  to  poisonous  herbs,  of  which  the  animals  have  inad- 
vertently partaken;  others,  to  the  dew;  and  others,  again, 
to  the  eating  the  young  grass  ;*  but  all  these  suppositions 
are  highly  improbable,  for  reasons  which  it  would  be  un- 
necessary to  enter  into  here. 

Fatal  as  the  disease  is  to  horses,  yet,  happily,  there  are 
places  (even  in  districts  where  it  commits  the  greatest  rav- 
ages) that  are  always  exempt  from  it.  And,  as  these  locali- 
ties are  well  known  to  the  natives,  if  one’s  horse  be  sent  to 
them  prior  to  the  commencement  of  the  sickly  season — usu- 
ally the  months  of  November  and  December — the  animals  in- 
variably escape  the  malady.  The  attack  of  our  animals  was 
an  unusual  exception  to  this  rule,  for  they  fell  victims  to  the 
disease  fully  a month  prior  to  the  rainy  season. 

From  the  Orange  Fiver  on  the  south,  and  as  far  north  as 
Europeans  have  penetrated  from  the  Cape  side,  this  deadly 
disease  is  known  to  prevail,  and  is  one  of  the  greatest  draw- 
backs  to  successful  traveling  in  South  Africa. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Hans  Larsen. — His  Exploits. — He  joins  the  Expedition. — How  people 
travel  on  Ox-back. — Rhinoceros  Hunt. — Death  of  the  Beast. — 
“ Look  before  you  Leap.” — Anecdote  proving  the  Truth  of  the  Prov- 
erb.— Hans  and  the  Lion. — The  Doctor  in  Difficulties. — Sufferings 
on  the  Naarip  Plain. — Arrival  at  Scheppmansdorf. 

When  at  the  Cape  we  heard  much  of  an  individual  named 
Hans  Larsen,  who  was  distinguished  in  a very  remarkable 
degree  for  courage,  energy,  perseverance,  and  endurance. 
This  man  was  a Dane  by  birth,  and  a sailor  by  profession ; 

* A similar  notion  prevails  with  regard  to  that  most  curious  little 
animal,  the  lemming  ( lemmus  norvegicus , Worm.),  on  whose  mysteri- 
ous appearance  and  disappearance  so  many  hypotheses  have  been  un- 
satisfactorily expended.  See  Lloyd’s  “ Scandinavian  Adventures,” 
vol.  ii.,  chap.  v. 


HANS  LARSEN HIS  GREAT  STRENGTH. 


69 


but,  becoming  disgusted  with  a seafaring  life,  had  a few  years 
previously  left  his  ship,  and  was  now  residing  somewhere  near 
to  Walfisch  Bay. 

On  visiting  Mr.  Bam  at  Scheppmansdorf,  that  gentleman 
confirmed  to  the  full  all  we  had  been  told  about  Hans,  and 
strongly  recommended  Mr.  Galton  to  take  him  into  his  serv- 
ice. It  was  not,  however,  until  our  arrival  at  Richterfeldt, 
where  Hans  then  resided,  that  we  had  an  opportunity  to  make 
his  personal  acquaintance.  Up  to  a rather  recent  period  he 
had  been  in  charge  of  a herd  of  cattle,  but  he  was  now  liv- 
ing independently  on  the  produce  of  his  live-stock  and  the 
spoils  of  the  chase. 

Hans  was  a fine  specimen  of  the  true  Northman  — fair 
complexion,  light  hair,  blue  eyes ; and,  though  not  above  the 
ordinary  stature,  he  was  very  muscular,  and  powerfully  built. 
His  strength,  indeed,  almost  exceeded  belief.  One  of  his 
feats  was  to  carry  an  enormous  anvil — which  no  ordinary 
man  could  lift  from  the  ground — with  as  many  persons  as 
could  possibly  cling  to  it.  On  one  occasion  he  had  borne 
from  place  to  place  a block  of  stone  which  required  ten  men 
to  lift  on  to  his  shoulders ! 

In  consequence  of  his  great  strength  and  courage,  he  was 
much  feared  by  the  natives,  who  nevertheless  took  pleasure 
in  teasing  him ; but,  being  of  a very  quiet  disposition,  he  sel- 
dom resented  their  impertinences.  One  day,  however,  when 
they  had  carried  their  jokes  somewhat  too  far,  he  raised  his 
Herculean  fist,  and  with  a single  blow  leveled  to  the  ground 
the  nearest  of  his  tormentors.  At  first  it  was  thought  that 
the  man  was  killed ; • but,  fortunately,  he  was  only  stunned. 
On  recovering  from  his  stupor  he  vowed  vengeance;  but, 
unable  to  carry  out  his  purpose  alone,  he  laid  his  complaint 
before  the  chief  of  the  tribe,  and  a “raad,”  or  counsel,  was 
held.  Many  were  for  severe  punishment ; but  at  last,  when 
all  the  members  had  spoken,  the  chief  rose  and  told  them 
that,  in  his  opinion,  the  offense  should  be  passed  over,  and 


70 


HANS  ENGAGED  AS  HEAD  MAN. 


that,  for  the  future,  it  would  be  better  not  to  molest  Hans, 
for  if  they  did  they  would  only  fare  worse.  This  advice 
was  felt  to  be  a prudent  caution,  and  from  that  day  forward 
they  ceased  to  worry  the  Dane. 

Hans  was  an  excellent  and  indefatigable  sportsman,  and 
so  successful  that,  though  the  country,  on  his  first  arrival,  lit- 
erally teemed  with  rhinoceroses,  lions,  giraffes,  zebras,  gnoos, 
gemsboks,  &c.,  he  had  all  but  exterminated  them. 

To  give  the  reader  some  idea  of  the  abundance  of  game 
and  wild  beasts  then  existing  in  this  part  of  Africa,  I may 
mention  than  Hans  once  shot,  with  his  own  hand,  no  less 
than  nine  rhinoceroses  in  the  course  of  a single  day.^ 

Hans  ate  very  little  animal  food,  but,  whenever  he  could 
afford  it,  he  drank  an  amazing  quantity  of  tea  and  coffee. 
His  chief  nourishment,  however,  was  thick  sour  milk,  which 
he  swallowed  in  gallons.  It  is  wonderful  how  people  thrive 
on  this  diet,  which  is  the  main  sustenance  of  the  Damaras, 
who,  as  has  been  already  said,  are  remarkably  fine-looking 
men. 

Hans,  on  the  proposal  being  made  to  him  by  Mr.  Galton, 
agreed  to  accompany  us  in  the  capacity  of  head  man,  and 
we  were  truly  fortunate  to  secure  so  able  and  practiced  a 
hand.  Indeed,  from  after-experience,  it  is  very  doubtful 
whether  we  should  have  been  able  to  get  on  without  him. 
We  had,  moreover,  found  that  it  would  be  next  to  impossi- 
ble to  obtain  from  the  natives,  by  barter,  any  considerable 
number  of  cattle ; and,  even  had  we  succeeded,  they  would 
have  been  so  wild  and  unmanageable  that  we  could  not  have 
made  use  of  them  for  months.  Now,  as  Hans  had  a small 
drove  of  his  own,  several  of  which  were  already  broken-in, 
and  the  rest  more  or  less  tractable,  and  was  willing  to  part 
with  them  at  a moderate  price,  Mr.  Galton  secured  the  whole 

* His  hunting  dress  on  these  occasions  consisted  simply  of  a thick, 
coarse  blue  shirt  or  blouse,  secured  by  a belt  round  his  waist,  contain- 
ing his  balls,  caps,  wadding,  &c. 


RIDING  ON  OX-BACK. 


71 


lot  without  a moment’s  hesitation,  and  thus  we  had  overcome 
a difficulty  which  had  long  given  us  some  uneasiness. 

Hans  had  in  his  employ  an  English  lad  named  John  Al- 
len, who  had  also  been  a sailor,  and  who,  like  his  master, 
had  left  his  ship  in  Walfisch  Bay.  In  the  absence  of  his 
employer,  John  had  been  accustomed  to  take  charge  of  the 
cattle  and  the  house ; and,  being  an  excellent  and  well-be- 
haved youth,  he  also  was  admitted  into  Mr.  Galton’s  service. 

After  a few  day’s  rest,  it  was  determined  that  Hans  and 
myself,  together  with  most  of  the  people,  should  return  to 
Scheppmansdorf  for  the  purpose  of  breaking-in  the  oxen, 
and  bringing  up  the  wagons  and  the  stores. 

Hans  presented  me  with  an  ox  called  “ Spring,”  which  I 
afterward  rode  upward  of  two  thousand  miles.  On  the  day 
of  our  departure  he  mounted  us  all  on  oxen,  and  a curious 
sight  it  was  to  see  some  of  the  men  take  their  seats  who  had 
never  before  ridden  on  ox-back.  It  is  impossible  to  guide  an 
ox  as  one  would  guide  a horse,  for  in  the  attempt  to  do  so 
you  would  instantly  jerk  the  stick  out  of  his  nose,  which  at 
once  deprives  you  of  every  control  over  the  beast;  but  by 
pulling  both  sides  of  the  bridle  at  the  same  time,  and  toward 
the  side  you  wish  him  to  take,  he  is  easily  managed.  Your 
seat  is  not  less  awkward  and  difficult ; for  the  skin  of  the  ox, 
unlike  that  of  the  horse,  is  loose,  and,  notwithstanding  your 
saddle  may  be  tightly  girthed,  you  keep  rocking  to  and  fro 
like  a child  in  a ‘cradle.  A few  days,  however,  enables  a 
person  to  acquire  a certain  steadiness,  and  long  habit  will  do 
the  rest. 

Ox-traveling,  when  once  a man  is  accustomed  to  it,  is  not 
so  disagreeable  as  might  be  expected,  particularly  if  one  suc- 
ceeds in  obtaining  a tractable  animal.  On  emergences,  an  ox 
can  be  made  to  proceed  at  a tolerably  quick  pace ; for,  though 
his  walk  is  only  about  three  miles  an  hour  at  an  average,  he 
may  be  made  to  perform  double  that  distance  in  the  same 
time.  Mr.  Galton  once  accomplished  twenty-four  miles  in 
four  hours,  and  that,  too,  through  heavy  sand ! 


72 


RHINOCEROS  HUNT. 


Early  one  morning  we  reached  Annis  Fountain,  where,  as 
on  a previous  occasion,  we  observed  a number  of  rhinoceros 
tracks.  Leaving  the  men  to  take  care  of  the  oxen,  Hans, 
Stewardson,  and  myself  selected  the  freshest  “ spoor,”  and 
started  off  in  pursuit ; but  after  several  hours’  hard  walking 
under  a burning  sun,  we  were  apparently  as  far  from  the 
quarry  as  ever,  and  Stewardson,  who  was  quite  knocked  up, 
used  his  best  endeavors  to  persuade  us  from  proceeding  far- 
ther. We  would  not  listen  to  him,  however,  but,  allowing 
him  to  return  to  the  encampment,  continued  to  toil  on, 
though  with  but  little  hope  of  success. 

An  hour  might  have  elapsed  after  we  had  thus  parted 
from  Stewardson  when  I observed  in  a distant  glen  a dark 
object,  which,  as  it  excited  my  suspicion,  I instantly  pointed 
out  to  Hans,  who  would  not  believe  that  it  was  any  thing 
but  a large  “ boulder.”  Nevertheless,  we  proceeded  toward 
the  spot,  and  I soon  saw  that  the  shapeless  mass  was  nothing 
less  than  the  rhinoceros  of  which  we  were  in  search.  Hans, 
however,  who  had  had  frequent  opportunities  of  seeing  this 
animal  in  all  positions,  remained  skeptical  on  the  point,  and 
it  was  not  till  we  were  within  about  twenty  paces  of  the 
beast  that  his  doubts  were  removed.  With  noiseless  and 
quickened  step,  and  our  guns  on  the  fullest  cock,  we  made  up 
to  the  monster,  which  still  gave  no  signs  of  life.  At  last, 
however,  one  of  us  whistled,  on  which,  and  with  the  rapidity 
of  thought,  the  beast  sat  up  on  its  haunches,  and  surveyed  us 
with  a curious  and  sulky  look.  But  it  was  only  a moment ; 
for,  before  he  had  time  to  get  on  his  legs,  two  well-directed 
balls  laid  him  prostrate  within  less  than  half  a dozen  paces 
of  our  feet. 

In  the  pride  of  success,  I somewhat  foolishly  leaped  upon 
his  back,  and,  African-like,  plunged  my  hunting-knife  into 
the  flesh,  to  ascertain  if  our  prize  was  fat.  But  whether  life 
was  not  altogether  extinct,  or  that  the  sudden  access  of  my 
weight  caused  a vibration  in  the  lately-living  body,  certain  it 


AN  UNEXPECTED  RIDE. 


73 


is  that  I felt  the  beast  move  under  me,  when,  as  may  be  sup- 
posed, I speedily  jumped  to  the  ground  again,  and  made  off. 
Though  my  apprehensions  in  this  instance  were  groundless, 
the  following  anecdote,  related  to  me  by  the  natives,  will 
show  that  there  is  considerable  danger  in  too  quickly  ap- 
proaching an  apparently  dead  rhinoceros  :* 

Some  Namaquas  had  shot  one  of  these  animals  as  it  was 
rising  from  its  sleep.  One  of  the  party,  imagining  the  beast 
to  be  dead,  straightway  went  up  to  it  and  (with  like  object 
as  myself)  acted  precisely  as  I had  done.  The  beast,  how- 
ever, had  only  been  stunned,  and,  as  soon  as  he  felt  the  cold 
steel  enter  his  body,  he  started  to  his  feet  and  made  off  at  full 
speed.  This  action  was  so  instantaneous  as  to  prevent  the 
man  from  dismounting,  and  the  other  Namaquas  were  par- 
alyzed with  fear.  Fortunately,  however,  after  the  beast  had 
run  forty  or  fifty  paces,  he  suddenly  stopped  short  and  looked 
round.  The  favorable  opportunity  was  not  lost ; for  one  of 
the  party,  more  courageous  than  the  rest,  instantly  fired,  and, 
as  good  luck  would  have  it,  brought  the  animal  to  the  ground, 
with  his  terror-stricken  rider  still  clinging  to  his  back. 

On  rejoining  our  party,  Stewardson  was  not  a little  sur- 
prised at  our  success,  and  mortified  at  his  own  want  of  perse- 
verance. The  flesh  of  the  rhinoceros  was  poor  but  not  un- 
palatable, and  we  remained  a day  at  Annis  to  cut  up  and 
dry  part  of  it  as  provision  for  the  journey.  We  also  carried 
away  a goodly  supply  of  the  beast's  hide  for  the  purpose  of 
converting  it  into  66  shamboks.”f 

* Most  animals,  when  .shot  or  otherwise  killed,  fall  on  their  sides  ; 
but  the  rhinoceros  is  often  an  exception  to  this  rule ; at  least  such  is 
my  experience.  In  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  of  all  those  I have  killed 
during  my  wanderings  in  Africa — and  they  amount  to  upward  of  one 
hundred — I found  them  on  their  knees , with  the  fore  parts  of  their 
ponderous  heads  resting  on  the  ground. 

f The  “ shambok”  (a  Dutch  term)  consists  of  a strip  of  the  stout- 
est part  of  the  hide  of  the  rhinoceros  or  the  hippopotamus.  After 
being  stretched  on  the  ground,  and  when  it  has  acquired  a certain 

D 


74 


tc  LOSING  THE  WAY”  THE  RULE. 

One  day,  as  I was  riding  with  Hans,  he  pointed  out  to  me 
a place  where  he  had  been  attacked  by  a lion  in  broad  day- 
light, pulled  off  his  ox,  and  only  escaped  death  by  a miracle. 

Not  being  encumbered  by  a vehicle,  we  were  now  able  to 
hold  the  course  of  the  Swakop  uninterruptedly ; but  on  ar- 
riving at  the  Usab  gorge,  it  became  necessary  to  leave  the 
river  and  to  cross  the  Naarip  plain  to  Scheppmansdorf. 
From  the  great  length  of  this  stage  (fifteen  hours’  actual 
travel),  and  the  total  absence  of  water  and  pasturage,  it  is 
necessary  to  traverse  it  during  the  night.  As  thick  fogs  and 
mists,  however,  are  not  uncommon  here,  the  traveler  is  ex- 
posed to  some  risk.  It  not  unfrequently  happens  that  he 
loses  the  track ; the  result  of  which  usually  is,  that  when  the 
day  breaks  upon  him  he  finds  himself  either  back  at  the  place 
from  which  he  started  or  in  some  unknown  part  of  the  plain. 
Instances  are  narrated  of  people  having  remained  in  this  in- 
hospitable desert  as  long  as  three  days  I “ Losing  the  way,” 
as  my  friend  Galton  says,  “is  the  rule  here  and  not  the  ex- 
ception ; and  a person  who  has  crossed  the  plain  without  do- 
ing so  rather  plumes  himself  upon  the  feat.” 

Hans  recited  to  me  the  particulars  of  an  adventure  which 
happened  to  a European  in  this  wilderness.  During  the  time 
Captain  Greybourn  (to  whom  allusion  has  already  been  made) 
was  established  at  Walfisch  Bay,  the  .medical  gentleman  who 
resided  with  him  had  occasion  to  cross  the  Naarip  plain ; but, 
being  a total  stranger  to  the  country,  he  engaged  a Hottentot 
as  guide.  The  day  proved  hot  and  oppressive,  and  the  way- 
farers had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  doctor  felt  faint  and 

stiffness,  the  strip  is  subjected  to  a severe  hammering,  for  the  double 
purpose  of  condensing  it  and  giving  it  a rounded  shape.  It  is  then 
reduced  to  the  desired  size  by  means  of  a knife  or  plane ; and,  lastly, 
a piece  of  sand-paper,  or  glass,  if  at  hand,  is  employed  to  give  it  the 
finishing  smoothness  and  polish.  The  “ shambok”  is  exceedingly 
tough  and  pliable,  will  inflict  the  most  severe  wounds  and  bruises,  and 
will  last  for  years.  The  price  of  one  of  these  “whips,”  in  the  colony, 
varies  from  eighteen  pence  to  as  much  as  nine  or  ten  shillings. 


THE  DOCTOR’S  ADVENTURE. 


75 


thirsty;.  On  inquiry  of  his  attendant  whether  any  water 
could  be  obtained,  he  received  a sulky  and  unsatisfactory 
answer,  and  was  about  to  prosecute  his  journey,  when  the 
man  thus  abruptly  addressed  him : 

“You’ve  got  a very  nice  hat,  sir,  which  you  must  give 
me,  or  I will  not  stir  another  step.” 

Under  ordinary  circumstances,  to  comply  with  such  a re- 
quest would  have  been  inconvenient,  but  it  was  still  more 
annoying  in  the  present  instance,  exposed  as  the  doctor  was 
to  a scorching  sun.  Finding  himself,  however,  entirely  at 
the  man’s  mercy,  and  seeing  nothing  but  a howling  wilder- 
ness all  around  him,  he  grudgingly  gave  the  hat,  hoping  to 
be  exempted  from  further  importunity.  But  he  was  mis- 
taken in  this  matter ; for  he  had  not  proceeded  much  farther 
when  the  Hottentot  sat  himself  quietly  down  on  the  sand, 
complaining  bitterly  of  the  immense  distance  they  had  yet  to 
perform,  adding,  with  a sly  look  at  the  doctor,  that  he 
thought  his  jacket  would  fit  him  exactly!  The  medical 
gentleman  was  amazed  at  the  fellow’s  impudence,  and  at 
first  refused  this  new  demand ; but,  as  the  man  said  that  un- 
less he  received  the  garment  he  would  leave  him  to  his  fate, 
he  was  obliged  to  comply. 

In  this  manner  he  gradually  divested  the  chicken-hearted 
doctor  of  his  apparel,  and  would,  in  all  probability,  not  have 
left  him  in  possession  of  the  shirt  on  his  back  had  it  not  been 
for  the  timely  arrival  of  Hans  and  another  European,  then  on 
their  way  to  Walfisch  Bay.  The  doctor’s  story  was,  of 
course,  soon  told,  and  the  rascally  Hottentot  was  not  only 
deprived  of  his  booty,  but  soundly  thrashed  into  the  bargain. 

After  having  given  the  animals  the  necessary  rest,  we  set 
out  the  next  afternoon,  about  three  o’clock,  on  the  last  stage 
for  Scheppmansdorf.  As  the  evening  was  starlight,  we  pro- 
ceeded at  a brisk  pace  till  about  midnight,  when  there  sud- 
denly arose  from  the  sea  a gloomy,  bitter  cold  mist,  which 
soon  enveloped  us  in  total  darkness,  and  completely  saturated 


76 


RETURN  TO  SCHEPPMANSDORF. 


every  article  of  our  dress.  Unfortunately,  in  the  early  part 
of  the  night  we  had  purposely  left  the  wagon-track  to  save 
a very  circuitous  part  of  the  road,  and  we  had  now  nothing 
to  guide  us.  Still,  we  toiled  on  as  well  as  we  could. 

But  we  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  the  poor  Damaras 
to  keep  pace  with  us,  who,  being  naked,  suffered  extremely. 
Every  ten  minutes  they  would  lie  down  on  the  cold  sand, 
perfectly  indifferent  to  the  consequences.  If  we  had  not 
used  the  utmost  vigilance  in  keeping  them  moving,  I am 
quite  convinced  that  some  of  them  would  have  perished. 
Toward  morning  the  cold  became  so  intense  that  I was  no 
longer  capable  of  holding  the  reins,  and  therefore  dismount- 
ed and  proceeded  on  foot.  Daybreak  brought  no  relief,  for 
the  fog  still  prevented  us  from  ascertaining  our  position.  The 
instinct  of  the  oxen,  however,  came  to  our  rescue,  and,  by 
giving  them  their  own  way,  they  soon  took  us  safely  to  our 
destination. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Return  to  Scheppmansdorf. — Training  Oxen  for  the  Yoke. — Sporting. 
— The  Flamingo. — The  Butcher-bird : curious  Superstition  regard- 
ing it. — Preparing  for  Journey. — Servants  described. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bam  and  their  family  were,  I was  glad  to 
find,  in  good  health,  and,  as  heretofore,  they  gave  me  not 
only  a most  kind  reception,  but  placed  at  my  disposal  the 
best  of  every  thing  which  the  house  afforded. 

It  is  wonderful  what  habit  and  association  will  effect. 
When  I visited  Scheppmansdorf  in  the  first  instance,  I 
thought  it  the  most  dismal  spot  that  human  eye  ever  rested 
on ; but  in  the  short  space  of  a few  weeks  it  had  almost 
become  endeared  to  me.  I found  what  Shakspeare  calls  the 
“ soul  of  goodness  in  things  evil.”  Dreariness  was  softened 
down  into  peaceful  seclusion;  the  savage  country  round 


TRAINING  OXEN  FOR  THE  YOKE.  77 

about  assumed  the  dignity  of  primeval  nature,  fresh  from  the 
hand  of  the  Creator ; and  the  solemn  and  stern  night-silence 
only  hushed  me  into  sounder  sleep.  These  feelings  and  this 
trusting  repose  mainly  originated  in  the  kind  ministrations 
and  unaffected  welcome  of  sincere  friends. 

After  a day  or  two’s  rest  we  began  the  difficult  and  labo- 
rious task  of  breaking-in  the  oxen ; but  it  proved  a much 
more  difficult  one  than  I had  anticipated.  While  herded  to- 
gether these  animals  looked  tame  and  docile  enough,  but  the 
instant  they  felt  the  lasso  round  their  legs  or  horns  their  char- 
acter changed  completely. 

The  spirit  of  Damara  cattle  is  fiery  and  wild  in  the  ex- 
treme, and  I have  known  many  an  ox  which  ten  strong  men 
were  unable  to  manage.  The  only  remedy  in  such  a case  is 
to  lasso  the  beast  by  his  legs  and  horns,  and,  after  having 
thrown  him  down,  to  affix  to  his  neck  a heavy  iron  chain,  of 
sufficient  length  to  trail  along  the  ground.  The  effect  on  the 
animal  of  this  incumbrance  is  in  some  instances  very  remark- 
able ; for,  instead  of  a wild,  stubborn,  and  unbending  brute, 
in  a short  time  he  is  all  docility.  Indeed,  it  not  unfrequent- 
ly  happens  that  he  becomes  too  lazy  to  be  of  any  use. 

While  at  Scheppmansdorf,  an'd  whenever  I could  snatch  a 
moment  from  my  busy  life,  I never  failed  to  shoulder  my  gun 
with  a view  of  obtaining  specimens  of  natural  history  or  a 
“ re-enforcement  for  the  larder,”  and  an  hour’s  walk  not  un- 
frequently  procured  me  a tolerable  share  of  both.  Ducks  and 
geese,  though  somewhat  shy,  were  by  no  means  uncommon. 
Quadrupeds  of  every  description,  however,  were  scarce,  yet 
I managed  occasionally  to  bag  a steinbok  or  a hare. 

Almost  every  morn  we  were  visited  by  a splendid  flock  of 
pelicans,  who  kept  soaring  above  the  place  for  hours  togeth- 
er ; now  in  wide,  graceful  circles,  the  next  instant  in  a com- 
pact body,  sometimes  rising  into  the  sky  till  they  became 
nearly  invisible,  then  suddenly  sinking  till  they  almost  touch- 
ed the  earth  ; when  abruptly,  as  if  recollecting  that  the  land 


78 


THE  FISCAAL PREPARING  TO  TRAVEL. 


was  not  their  proper  home,  they  would  resume  their  airy  sta- 
tion. They  generally  ended  by  settling  near  a large  reedy 
fountain ; but  they  were  very  difficult  of  approach. 

The  lanius  subcoronatus , a species  of  shrike,  first  described 
by  Dr.  Andrew  Smith,  I found  to  be  common  at  Schepp- 
mansdorf,  as  also  the  butcher-bird,  which,  as  known,  always 
impales  its  prey  on  some  thorn  or  sharp-pointed  stick  before 
devouring  it.  The  Cape  people  call  this  bird  the  “ fiscaal,” 
or  magistrate,  in  consequence  of  a superstitious  belief  that  it 
represents  among  the  smaller  animals  what  the  judge  does 
among  men.  Many  even  go  farther,  and  say  that  the  “ fis- 
caal”  only  administers  justice  on  a Friday;  probably  from 
the  Dutch  court  of  justice  being  held  in  former  times  on  that 
particular  day. 

Part  of  the  oxen  being  at  length  pretty  well  trained  to  the 
yoke,  we  made  preparations  for  our  departure. 

When  we  left  the  Cape,  the  belief  was  entertained  that 
we  should  be  able  to  carry  thirty  or  forty  hundred  weight 
on  each  wagon ; but  on  taking  into  account  our  young  and 
wild  cattle,  and  the  sandy  and  heavy  soil  through  which  we 
should  have  to  pass,  we  had,  ere  this,  made  up  our  minds  to 
reduce  the  quantity  to  rather  less  than  one  third  of  this 
weight,  or  to  about  fifteen  hundred  pounds.  Even  this,  as 
will  be  shortly  seen,  proved  too  great.  Accordingly,  every 
article  was  carefully  weighed  with  the  steelyard  previously 
to  being  stowed  away  in  the  wagons. 

Before  proceeding  farther  in  my  narrative,  it  may  be 
proper  to  introduce  to  the  reader  our  traveling  establish- 
ment, as  the  character  of  the  several  individuals  composing 
it  had  by  this  time  become  pretty  well  developed.  And 
though  among  our  retainers  we  had  more  than  one  “ black 
sheep,”  and  others  whom  it  was  exceedingly  difficult  to  keep 
in  order,  yet,  taking  them  together,  they  were  probably  a 
fair  average  of  the  servants  likely  to  be  picked  up  by  the 
African  traveler.  On  an  expedition  similar  to  the  one  in 


SERVANTS. 


79 


which  we  were  engaged,  I should  remark,  people  can  not  be 
too  particular  in  the  selection  of  their  attendants ; for,  to  say- 
nothing  of  the  success  of  the  undertaking,  one’s  personal 
comfort  mainly  depends  on  their  good  behavior. 

First  in  order  was  a youth  named  Gabriel,  a native  of 
the  Cape,  He  had  been  engaged  by  Galton  chiefly  for  his 
smiling  face  and  winning  looks,  but  he  proved  himself  to  be 
the  most  troublesome  of  the  whole  lot.  In  our  journey  up 
the  country  he  had  already  exhibited  a vindictive  temper 
and  quarrelsome  disposition,  which  at  length  broke  forth 
with  increased  violence.  On  two  separate  occasions  he  at- 
tempted, if  I was  rightly  informed,  the  lives  of  his  fellow- 
servants,  Upon  this  atrocity,  I spoke  to  him  with  earnest 
reprobation,  and  trusted  that  I had  produced  some  effect; 
when,  to  my  astonishment  and  mortification,  the  very  next 
day  he  was  guilty  of  the  same  outrage.  After  a dispute 
with  one  of  his  companions,  he  rushed  upon  him  with  a 
hatchet,  and  would  undoubtedly  have  cleft  his  skull  had  it 
not  been  for  a Hottentot,  who  warded  off  the  blow.  So  lit- 
tle did  the  young  villain  think  of  the  crime  he  had  intended 
to  perpetrate,  that  upon  receiving  punishment  he  had  the 
impudence  to  remonstrate,  and  to  ask  'yhy  he  was  flogged ! 

Next  in  order  came  Abraham  Wenzel  (a  native  also,  I 
believe,  of  Cape-Town),  a wheelwright  by  trade,  and  by  habit 
a thief.  Even  before  leaving  Scheppmansdorf  I received 
information  that  he  had  purloined  divers  articles  from  the 
stores,  for  which  crime  he  received  his  due  punishment. 

Another  of  our  servants  was  named  John  Waggoner. 
This  man  teased  us  continually  by  his  sulkiness  and  reluct- 
ance to  work,  assigning  as  a reason  that  he  had  been  seized 
with  home-sickness,  and  that  he  wished  to  return  imme- 
diately to  the  Cape.  Some  little  time  afterward  he  was 
gratified  in  his  wish;  and,  as  will  subsequently  be  seen,  he 
proved  himself  the  worst  scamp  of  the  set.  But  John  per- 
formed his  fraudulent  tricks  with  so  much  cleverness,  inge- 


80 


SERVANTS. 


nuity,  and  self-confidence,  that,  out  of  mere  admiration  at 
his  dexterity,  I could  not  refrain  from  excusing  him. 

John  St.  Helena,  a relative  of  the  last-mentioned,  was 
born  in  the  Cape  colony,  and  officiated  as  our  head  wagoner. 
This  man  exhibited  the  most  extraordinary  disposition ; for, 
though  sometimes  he  would  be  good-natured,  willing,  and 
hard-working,  at  others  he  was  sulky,  ill-tempered,  and  indo- 
lent. At  first  I felt  much  annoyed  at  his  irritable  and 
changeable  temper ; but  I soon  found  that  by  interfering  I 
only  made  matters  worse;  and,  as  he  was  an  “ excellent 
whip,”  it  was  necessary  to  put  up  with  and  overlook  a great 
deal,  as  we  should  have  found  it  almost  impossible  to  re- 
place him  in  so  wild  and  inhospitable  a region.  About  three 
years  afterward  I employed  him  again,  and,  strange  to  say, 
he  was  then  the  best  of  servants. 

Another  of  the  attendants,  John  Williams,  also  a colony 
man,  was  a short,  stout,  merry,  mischievous-looking  lad, 
who  agreed  to  serve  in  any  capacity  to  which  he  might  be 
competent.  He  now  cooked  for  the  men,  assisted  in  “ in- 
spanning”  and  leading  the  oxen,  washed  clothes — in  short, 
made  himself  generally  useful.  Still  he  was  careless,  thought- 
less, and  dirty  in  his  habits,  and  had  not  the  least  idea  of 
husbanding  the  provisions.  The  result  was,  that  before  we 
had  been  many  months  in  the  country,  our  stock  of  vegeta- 
bles, coffee,  tea,  and  other  necessaries  was  all  but  gone. 

Our  own  cook,  John  Mortar,  a native  of  Madeira,  was  the 
very  reverse  of  this.  He  was  careful,  frugal,  industrious, 
strictly  honest,  and  deeply  attached  to  his  master’s  interest. 
His  only  fault  was  irritability;  but  this,  in  a cook,  is  always 
excusable.  I had  a great  regard  for  poor  John,  and  I believe 
the  attachment  was  mutual. 

Mortar  had  been  cook  to  the  club  in  Cape-Town,  where 
he  won  golden  opinions;  but,  though  he  had  certainly  at- 
tained some  proficiency  in  the  culinary  art,  he  required  a 
whole  grocer’s  shop  to  prepare  a dinner;  and  it  was  some 


SERVANTS. 


81 


time  before  he  could  reconcile  himself  to  make  a beef-steak 

a la  fagon  sauvage. 

John  had  a famous  way  of  telling  stories,  and,  like  his 
own  dishes,  they  were  very  savory  and  well-spiced:  a tale 
never  degenerated  in  his  hands;  and  when,  in  his  happier 
moments,  he  condescended  to  open  his  mind,  he  never  failed 
to  keep  his  audience  in  a roar  of  laughter.  He  had,  more- 
over, great  ambition,  and  could  never  bear  that  any  one 
should  interfere  with  his  cooking  establishment.  The  arrival 
of  a batch  of  natives  at  his  fire  was  the  signal  for  a general 
burst  of  eloquent  abuse ; and  if  this  did  not  suffice,  he  had  a 
provoking  way  of  Scattering  the  hot  coals  and  ashes  over  the 
naked  legs  of  the  poor  unsuspecting  savages,  which,  of  course, 
never  failed  to  have  the  desired  effect.  I often  trembled  for 
John,  for  his  mind  was  clearly  too  republican  to  make  any 
difference  between  chief  and  subject,  and  I was  surprised 
that  he  never  got  into  a scrape.  I suppose,  however,  the 
comical  manner  in  which  his  dangerous  experiments  were 
always  carried  on  served  rather  to  amuse  than  irritate  or 
provoke. 

John  lived  to  return  to  the  Cape,  where  he  became  an- 
other Gulliver,  embellishing  his  adventures  among  the  sav- 
ages with  marvels  which  would  have  done  honor  to  the  in- 
vention even  of  Dean  Swift. 

I now  come  to  the  last,  but  certainly  not  the  least  inter- 
esting of  the  servants.  This  man’s  name  was  Timbo.  He 
was  a native  of  Mazapa,  a country  far  in  the  interior,  lying 
to  the  west  of  the  Portuguese  settlements  on  the  east  coast 
of  Africa. 

When  yet  a child,  Timbo’s  country  was  invaded  by  a 
ferocious  and  powerful  tribe  of  Caffres,  who  carried  off  the 
cattle,  and  slew  many  of  the  inhabitants.  Among  the  latter 
were  his  parents;  he  himself  escaped  to  a neighboring  tribe. 
As  this,  however,  soon  after  shared  a similar  fate  to  his  own, 
he  was,  for  a long  time,  a “stranger  on  the  face  of  the 

D 2 


82 


THE  HANDSOME  BLACK TIMBO. 


earth.”  At  last  he  was  sold  as  a slave  to  the  Portuguese, 
but  after  a while  effected  his  escape.  His  liberty,  however, 
was  of  short  duration,  for  he  was  soon  recaptured,  and  put 
on  board  a slaver.  Fortunately,  the  vessel  fell  into  the 
hands  of  an  English  cruiser,  and  Timbo,  together  with  a great 
number  of  slaves,  was  brought  to  the  Cape  and  liberated. 

Though  of  a shining  dark  complexion,  Timbo  was  a re- 
markably fine-looking  man,  and  well  formed.  He  bore  the 
reputation  of  being  a complete  lady-killer,  not  only  with 
those  of  his  own  color,  but  also  among  the  European  “fair 
sex.”  He  had,  therefore,  no  great  difficulty  in  securing  a 
partner.  His  choice,  however,  seems  to  have  been  unfortu- 
nate; for,  on  his  return  after  eighteen  months’  absence,  he 
found  that  his  faithless  spouse  had  not  only  deserted  him  for 
another,  but  had  also  carried  off  with  her  nearly  the  whole 
of  his  hard-earned  wages.  On  asking  him  one  day  whether 
he  had  any  intention  of  again  marrying,  he  replied  in  his 
strange  patois , “No,  maser ; me  no  more  marry ; women  too 
great  rascals  in  the  Kaap !” 

But  it  was  not  only  of  a handsome  face  and  good  figure 
that  Timbo  could -boast,  for  he  possessed,  in  addition,  many 
excellent  qualities,  such  as  even  temper,  generosity,  honesty, 
prudence,  industry ; and,  like  our  cook,  he  was  sincere  in  his 
attachment  to  the  interest  of  his  employer.  With  Galton 
and  myself  he  was  a great  favorite.  He  possessed,  moreover, 
the  most  cheerful  disposition,  and  an  inexhaustible  store  of 
fun.  I was,  indeed,  never  tired  of  listening  to  his  tales,  for 
he  told  them  with  such  force  and  simplicity  that  it  was  im- 
possible not  to  be  pleased  and  amused. 

When  reproached  for  any  thing  of  which  he  knew  himself 
to  be  innocent,  he  would  lay  his  hand  on  his  breast  and  say, 
“No,  maser;  me  know  dat,  me  tell  you.”  Or,  “No,  maser; 
me  heart  know  that,  me  heart  reproach  me,  and  me  tell 
you.” 

Timbo  had  a wonderful  aptitude  for  languages ; but,  though 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SCHEPPMANSDORF. 


83 


acquainted  with  many,  he  spoke  none  well.  Still,  his  speech 
was  remarkably  fluent,  and  nothing  brought  it  forth  with 
such  abundant  fervor  as  when  mention  was  made  of  his  own 
country.  This  was  like  touching  an  electric  rod,  and  he 
spoke  in  ecstasies.  No  European  could  take  more  pride  in 
his  native  soil  than  this  man  did  in  his ; and  if  the  rest  of 
his  countrymen  resembled  him,  they  must  indeed  have  been 
a fine  race  of  men,  and,  undoubtedly,  capable  of  a very  high 
degree  of  cultivation. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Departure  from  Scheppmansdorf. — Cattle  refractory  at  starting. — 
Tineas. — Always  travel  by  Night.— Rhinoceros  Hunt. — The  Au- 
thor in  danger  of  a second  Sun-stroke. — Reach  Onanis. — A Tribe 
of  Hill-Damaras  settled  there.— Singular  Manner  in  which  these 
People  smoke. — Effects  of  the  Weed. — The  Euphorbia  Candela- 
brum.— Remarkable  Properties  of  this  vegetable  Poison. — Guinea- 
fowl:  the  best  Manner  of  shooting  them. — Meet  a troop  of  Gi- 
raffes.— Tjobis  Fountain  again. — Attacked  by  Lions. — Providential 
Escape.— Arrival  at  Richterfeldt. 

After  only  three  weeks’  stay  at  Scheppmansdorf,  and 
though  our  oxen  were  but  partially  broken-in,  Hans  one  day 
informed  me  that  we  might  set  out  in  safety.  Accordingly, 
the  final  arrangements  were  hastily  completed,  and  on  the 
13th  of  November  I once  more  bade  farewell  to  the  place, 
and  its  kind,  obliging,  and  hospitable  inhabitants. 

At  first  starting,  and  while  the  sand  was  very  deep  and 
yielding,  the  oxen. caused  us  much  trouble;  but  when  we 
were  on  the  hard  and  firm  Naarip,  all  went  well,  and  we 
arrived  at  the  Usab  gorge,  where  we  encamped,  without  far- 
ther inconvenience  than  passing  a cold  and  sleepless  night. 

The  next  evening  we  resumed  our  journey,  but,  instead 
of  following  the  course  of  the  Swakop  — which,  with  our 
young  oxen  and  heavy  wagons,  would  have  been  next  to  im- 


84 


TINCAS. 


possible — it  was  deemed  advisable  that  we  should  still  con- 
tinue on  the  Naarip,  where,  though  water  was  scarce,  the 
road  was  hard  and  good.  Tineas  Mountain,  which  on  our 
former  journey  was  to  the  right,  was  now,  of  course,  to  our 
left.  After  about  fourteen  hours’  fatiguing  travel  we  reach- 
ed the  small  River  Tineas,  where  we  unyoked,  and  rested 
ourselves  and  the  weary  oxen  until  nightfall,  when  we  were 
again  en  route. 

As  we  had  now  adopted  the  plan  of  traveling  during  the 
night,  so  as  not  to  distress  the  animals  too  much,  we  found 
it  necessary  to  keep  a sharp  look-out,  both  on  account  of  the 
wild  beasts,  and  for  fear  of  losing  our  way.  The  latter  was 
particularly  to  be  guarded  against ; for,  in  this  land  of 
drought,  any  considerable  deviation  from  the  regular  track  is 
not  unfrequently  followed  by  serious  consequences.  Hans 
and  myself  were  accustomed  to  keep  watch  by  turns,  for  we 
never  dared  trust  to  the  men ; but  this  night,  owing  to  our 
previous  fatigue,  we  both  unfortunately  fell  asleep. 

When  I awoke,  I found  that  we  were  far  out  of  our  proper 
course,  and  all  the  men  were  snoring  in  the  wagons.  How- 
ever, as  it  was  starlight,  and  the  landmarks  very  conspicu- 
ous, we  had  not  much  difficulty  in  recovering  the  proper 
track. 

Toward  break  of  day  we  unyoked  the  tired  oxen  in  the 
bed  of  a small  dry  water-course,  where  we  found  abundance 
of  excellent  grass.  The  unattached  cattle  did  not  join  us  till 
late  in  the  afternoon,  as  the  men  in  charge  of  them  had  fallen 
asleep.  Their  negligence,  however,  was  excused  on  account 
of  the  good  news  they  brought.  It  appeared  that  soon  after 
it  was  light  they  discovered  a huge  rhinoceros,  accompanied 
by  a nearly  full-grown  calf,  following  in  their  wake,  and  that 
they  had  only  lost  sight  of  the  beasts  when  within  a short 
distance  of  our  bivouac. 

So  favorable  an  opportunity  was  too  tempting  to  let  slip. 
Having  hurriedly  partaken  of  some  breakfast,  and  provided 


RHINOCEROS  HUNT. 


85 


ourselves  with  a small  supply  of  water,  I,  Hans,  and  an  at- 
tendant started  in  pursuit  of  the  animals,  and  wre  had  not 
left  the  camp  for  much  more  than  an  hour  when  we  fell  in 
with  their  “spoor.”  The  beasts  themselves,  however,  could 
nowhere  be  seen ; and  as  several  tracks  crossed  each  other 
more  than  once  (the  animals  having  probably  been  feeding 
thereabouts),  Hans  and  I took  different  directions  in  search 
of  the  trail  we  were  to  follow.  We  had  hardly  parted  when 
X heard  a tremendous  crash  among  the  bushes,  and  about  a 
hundred  yards  in  advance  X saw,  to  my  great  vexation,  the 
two  rhinoceroses  going  away  at  full  speed.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  distance  and  the  unfavorable  position  of  the  beasts, 
X fired  at  the  mother ; but,  though  the  ball  apparently  took 
effect,  she  in  no  wise  slackened  her  pace. 

Hans  did  not  discharge  his  gun,  because,  as  he  said,  the 
bushes  prevented  him  from  having  more  than  a very  indis- 
tinct view  of  the  beasts. 

When  I had  reloaded  we  gave  chase,  and  as  that  part  of 
the  plain  we  had  now  reached  was  totally  devoid  of  every 
kind  of  vegetation  that  could  obstruct  the  sight,  we  easily 
kept  the  animals  in  view.  By  degrees  they  slackened  their 
speed,  and  in  about  twenty  minutes  abruptly  came  to  a 
stand-still,  curiously  regarding  me  as,  having  (though  unob- 
served to  myself)  separated  from  Hans,  I rapidly  made  up 
to  them.  When  within  fifteen  to  twenty  paces,  X halted, 
took  aim  at  the  mother,  and  pulled  the  trigger,  but,  to  my 
great  annoyance,  my  gun  missed  fire.  While  in  the  very 
act  of  discharging  my  second  barrel  she  wheeled  about,  and 
the  ball,  instead  *of  entering  her  heart,  lodged  in  her  hind 
quarters,  and  only  tended  to  quicken  her  pace. 

In  the  heat  of  pursuit,  X had  taken  no  notice  of  Hans  and 
our  attendant ; but,  now  that  my  attention  was  no  longer 
exclusively  drawn  to  the  rhinoceros,  X looked  round  to  as- 
certain why  they  had  not  fired  as  well  as  myself,  when,  to 
my  utter  astonishment,  I saw  both  of  them  about  half  a 


86 


RHINOCEROS  HUNT. 


mile  in  the  background,  standing  motionless,  and  watching 
my  proceedings.  On  their  rejoining  me,  and  in  the  first 
burst  of  indignation,  I charged  them  with  cowardice ; but 
Hans  immediately  drew  himself  up  to  his  full  height,  and 
indignantly  but  respectfully  replied  as  follows : 

“ Sir ! when  you  have  had  my  experience,  you  will  never 
call  that  man  a coward  who  does  not  attack  a wounded 
black  rhinoceros  on  an  open  and  naked  plain.  I would  rath- 
er,” he  continued,  “ face  fifty  lions  than  one  of  these  animals 
in  such  an  exposed  situation,  for  not  one  in  a hundred 
would  take  it  as  quietly  as  this  has  done.  A wounded  black 
rhinoceros  seldom  waits  to  be  attacked,  but  charges  instant- 
ly ; and  there  would  not  have  been  the  least  chance  of  sav- 
ing one’s  life  in  an  open  place  like  this.  Had  there  been 
but  the  smallest  bush  or  stone,  I shouldn’t  have  hesitated  a 
moment,  for  the  sight  of  the  rhinoceros  is  bad,  and  if  there 
is  the  least  cover  it  is  easy  to  avoid  him.  Not  many  years 
ago,  a great  Namaqua  chief,  who,  contrary  to  the  advice  of 
his  friends,  had  fired  at  a rhinoceros  under  precisely  similar 
circumstances  to  yourself,  lost  his  life  by  his  rashness.” 

I could  not  but  be  sensibly  aware  of  the  injustice  of  my 
accusation  and  my  own  foolhardiness;  yet  I then  felt  but 
half  convinced  of  the  truth  of  what  Hans  had  told  me,  and 
should  certainly  have  acted  in  the  like  imprudent  manner 
(as  indeed  I did  on  many  subsequent  occasions)  had  another 
opportunity  offered.  But,  after  all,  Hans  was  perfectly 
right,  as  I am  sure  every  one  who  has  come  much  in  con- 
tact with  the  beast  in  question  will  readily  admit.  Indeed, 
after  -the  severe  lesson  which,  at  an  after  period,  I received 
from  a black  rhinoceros,  I am  free  to  confess  that  nothing  in 
the  world  would  ever  again  induce  me  willfully  to  expose 
myself  in  the  way  just  mentioned. 

To  proceed.  After  receiving  my  fire,  both  mother  and 
calf  galloped  off  as  fast  as  their  legs  would  carry  them ; but 
gradually  they  slackened  their  pace  to  a canter,  then  to  a 


RHINOCEROS  HUNT. 


87 


trot,  and  finally  to  a walk.  By  this  time,  however,  they 
were  so  far  away  that,  but  for  the  certain  knowledge  of  their 
identity,  we  might  readily  have  taken  them  for  stocks  or 
stones.  The  indistinctness  of  objects,  moreover,  even  at  a 
moderate  distance,  was  increased  by  the  effects  of  a most 
perplexing  mirage. 

While  discussing  the  propriety  of  following  up  the  rhi- 
noceroses, we  saw  them  make  for  an  isolated  tree,  no  doubt 
with  the  intention  of  sheltering  themselves  from  the  scorch- 
ing rays  of  the  sun.  This  decided  us  on  continuing  the 
chase ; and,  although  suffering  greatly  from  thirst  (our  small 
supply  of  water  having  been  long  exhausted),  the  hope  of 
ultimate  success  gave  us  strength  to  proceed. 

Approaching  under  cover  of  some  stunted  bushes,  and 
when  almost  certain  of  closing  with  the  beasts,  and  putting 
an  end  to  one  or  both,  I was  startled  by  the  report  of  guns 
close  behind  me,  and  on  turning  round  I found  that  Hans 
and  our  man  had  fired.  I never  felt  more  vexed  in  my  life, 
for  we  were  still  a good  hundred  yards  from  the  animals,  and 
it  had  been  previously  agreed  that — unless  the  beasts  knew 
of  our  presence — we  were  not  to  fire  until  within  a very 
short  distance  of  them.  As,  however,  the  evil  could  not  be 
remedied,  I lost  no  time  in  firing ; but  the  brutes  being  fully 
one  hundred  and  fifty  paces  from  me,  I had  small  hope  of  in- 
flicting serious  injury.  That  I hit  the  mother,  however,  was 
very  certain,  for,  at  the  instant  of  discharging  my  gun,  she 
bounded  like  a cat  into  the  air ; and  Hans,  who  looked  upon 
this  as  a sure  sign  of  her  being  mortally  wounded,  exclaim- 
ed, “ Aha,  old  girl,  you  are  safe!”  Annoyed  as  I was,  I 
could  not  help  smiling,  and  ironically  replied,  “ To  be  sure, 
she  is  safe  enough.”  And  so  it  proved,  for  we  never  saw  her 
or  her  calf  again. 

I felt  disappointed  at  our  failure  and  the  chance  of  a 
feast,  and  was  moreover  sorry  for  the  poor  rhinoceros ; for, 
though  she  was  lost  to  us,  I felt  certain  it  was  only  to  die  a 


88  THE  AUTHOR  IN  DANGER  OF  A SECOND  SUN-STROKE. 

lingering  death  at  a distance.  From  experience,  indeed,  I 
should  say  that  a similar  fate  awaits  a large  portion  of  birds 
and  animals  that  escape  us  after  being  badly  wounded. 

Under  ordinary  circumstances,  I would  certainly  have  con- 
tinued the  pursuit;  but  this  was  now  impossible.  We  could 
not  reach  our  encampment  under  many  hours,  and  we  suffer- 
ed painfully  from  thirst;  while,  owing  to  severe  and  con- 
tinued exertions  under  a burning  sun,  I was  attacked  by 
torturing  headache.  Long  before  we  could  reach  the  wagons, 
I experienced  precisely  thb  same  feelings  as  when  I received 
a sun-stroke.  Knowing  that  a renewal  of  the  same  infliction 
would  in  all  probability  prove  fatal,  I still  toiled  on ; yet,  at 
last,  the  faintness  and  exhaustion  became  so  overpowering, 
that,  regardless  of  danger,  I threw  myself  on  a small  flat  rock, 
so  heated  by  the  sun  that  I was  unable  to  hold  my  hand 
on  it  for  a moment,  and  even  the  limbs  protected  by  my 
dress  were  almost  blistered.  I then  urged  Hans  to  proceed 
as  quickly  as  possible,  in  order  that,  if  he  found  I did  not 
immediately  follow,  he  might  send  me  some  water. 

Hans  had  not  long  been  gone,  however,  when  the  rock  be- 
came so  intolerably  hot  that,  stupefied  as  I was,  I found  it 
necessary  to  rise  from  it ; when,  with  a faltering  step,  and  in 
a state  of  almost  total  unconsciousness,  I made  for  the  wag- 
ons, which  I reached  in  safety  just  as  Hans  was  about  to 
dispatch  a man  to  me  with  an  ample  supply  of  water.  My 
apprehensions,  however,  had  been  vain.  A few  hours’  rest 
and  quiet  gradually  restored  me. 

The  oppressive  heat  under  which  I had  suffered  so  severe- 
ly had  also  made  the  cattle  very  thirsty,  and  they  refused  to 
eat  the  dry  and  sun-burnt  grass.  As  soon,  therefore,  as  the 
air  became  a little  cooler,  we  pushed  on  to  Onanis,  where  we 
arrived  somewhat  late  in  the  evening.  Notwithstanding  the 
darkness,  and  the  risk  of  being  attacked  by  lions,  which  some- 
times swarm  here,  we  were  obliged  to  supply  our  cattle  with 
water  ; and,  as  we  had  to  dig  for  it  in  the  bed  of  a small  pe- 


ONANIS — TOBACCO  AND  HEMP. 


89 


riodical  stream  hard  by,  it  was  close  on  midnight  before  we 
could  think  of  refreshment  or  sleep. 

Onanis  is  the  permanent  residence  of  a kraal  of  very  poor 
Hill-Damaras,*  who  subsist  chiefly  upon  the  few  wild  roots 
which  their  sterile  neighborhood  produces.  Most  of  them, 
however,  manage  to  raise  a little  tobacco,  for  which  they 
have  a perfect  mania,  and  which,  moreover,  they  value  near- 
ly as  much  as  the  necessaries  of  life. 

They  also  cultivate  “ dacka,”  or  hemp,  not,  as  with  us,  for 
its  fibre,  but  for  the  sake  of  the  young  leaves  and  seeds,  which 
they  use  as  a substitute  for  tobacco,  and  which  is  of  the  most 
intoxicating  and  injurious  character.  It  not  unfrequently 
happens,  indeed,  that  those  who  indulge  too  freely  in  the  use 
of  this  plant  are  affected  by  disease  of  the  brain. 

The  manner  in  which  the  Hill-Damaras  smoke  is  widely 
different  either  from  Hindu,  Mussulman,  or  Christian.  In- 
stead of  simply  inhaling  the  smoke,  and  then  immediately 
letting  it  escape,  either  by  the  mouth  or  nostril,  they  swallow 
it  deliberately . The  process  is  too  singular  to  be  passed  over 
without  notice. 


A small  quantity  of  water  is  put  into  a large  horn — usu- 
ally of  a koodoo— three  or  four  feet  long.  A short  clay  pipe, 
filled  either  with  tobacco  or  u dacka,”  is  then  introduced, 
and  fixed  vertically  into  the  side  near  the  extremity  of  the 

* The  proper  name  of  these  people  is  Haulcoin , which  literally  means 
“real  men.”  By  the  Namaquas  they  are  styled  Ghou-Damop  or  Da- 
man— a term  not  sufficiently  decorous  for  translation.  The  name  Hill- 
Damaras  is  that  by  which  they  are  best  known,  and,  being  really  very 
appropriate  to  their  habits  and  mode  of  living,  I shall  retain  it  through- 
out the  course  of  this  narrative. 


90 


HOW  THE  HILL-DAMARAS  SMOKE. 


narrow  end,  communicating  with  the  interior  by  means  of  a 
small  aperture.  This  being  done,  the  party  present  place 
themselves  in  a circle,  observing  deep  silence,  and  with  open 
mouths,  and  eyes  glistening  with  delight,  they  anxiously  abide 
their  turn.  The  chief  man  usually  has  the  honor  of  enjoy- 
ing the  first  pull  at  the  pipe.  From  the  moment  that  the 
orifice  of  the  horn  is  applied  to  his  lips,  he  seems  to  lose  all 
consciousness  of  every  thing  around  him,  and  becomes  entire- 
ly absorbed  in  the  enjoyment.  As  little  or  no  smoke  escapes 
from  his  mouth,  the  effect  is  soon  sufficiently  apparent.  His 
features  become  contorted,  his  eyes  glassy  and  vacant,  his 
mouth  covered  with  froth,  his  whole  body  convulsed,  and  in 
a few  seconds  he  is  prostrate  on  the  ground.  A little  water 
is  then  thrown  over  his  body,  proceeding  not  unfrequently 
from  the  mouth  of  a friend ; his  hair  is  violently  pulled,  or 
his  head  unceremoniously  thumped  with  the  hand.  These 
somewhat  disagreeable  applications  usually  have  the  effect  of 
restoring  him  to  himself  in  a few  minutes.  Cases,  however, 
have  been  known  where  people  have  died  on  the  spot  from 
overcharging  their  stomachs  with  the  poisonous  fumes. 

The  Ovaherero  use  tobacco  in  a similar  manner  as  just 
described,  with  this  difference  only,  that  they  inhale  the 
smoke  simply  through  short  clay  pipes  without  using  water 
to  cool  it,  which,  of  course  makes  it  all  the  more  dangerous. 

The  first  time  we  were  present  at  a smoking  bout  we  were 
disgusted  and  frightened;  but,  from  its  being  of  every-day 
occurrence,  we  at  length  became  somewhat  reconciled  to  it, 
as  also  to  many  other  unpleasant  sights  and  customs. 

Instead  of  the  naked  and  barren  Naarip,  the  country  had 
now  begun  to  assume  a more  pleasing  appearance ; for,  though 
every  thing  looked  dry  and  parched  at  this  season,  there  was 
no  want  of  vegetation.  Besides  a variety  of  shrubs  and 
stunted  bushes,  the  periodical  water-courses  were  marked  by 
the  handsome  black-stemmed  mimosa,  and  other  species  of 
the  acacia  family.  The  hill-sides,  also,  were  in  many 


THE  EUPJHORBIA  CANDELABRUM GAME.  91 

places  covered  with  the  graceful  but  poisonous  euphorbia 
candelabrum. 

The  Ovaherero  tip  their  arrows  with  this  vegetable  poi- 
son, and  the  Hill-Damaras  introduce  it  in  a liquid  state 
into  pools  where  wild  beasts  are  known  to  drink ; and  the 
flesh  of  any  animal  thus  destroyed  is  perfectly  wholesome. 
But  its  most  remarkable  property  is,  that  while  it  invariably 
kills  the  white  rhinoceros,  it  is  freely  and  harmlessly  partaken 
of  by  the  black  species,  whether  the  plant  itself  be  eaten,  or  a 
solution  of  it  drunk.  The  juice  of  the  euphorbia  candelabrum 
has  a milk-white  appearance,  and  is  very  gummy,  with  an 
acrid  taste. 

The  wild  bee  is  occasionally  known  to  extract  its  food 
from  the  flowers  and  the  juice  of  this  cactus.  In  such  a case 
the  honey  becomes  more  or  less  poisonous.  Mr.  Moffat 
mentions  an  instance  of  his  party  suffering  much  pain  and 
inconvenience  from  having  partaken  of  such  honey.  They 
felt  as  if  their  throats  had  been  on  fire. 

In  seasons  when  rain  falls  abundantly,  Onanis  becomes 
one  of  the  finest  grazing  localities  throughout  Namaqua-land, 
and  is  capable  of  sustaining  many  hundred  head  of  cattle  for 
several  months  together.  The  hills  then  afford  a variety  of 
shrubs  and  bushes  of  which  goats  and  sheep  are  fond.  The 
surrounding  plains  are  covered  with  fine  grass,  and  a species 
of  yellow  flower  much  relished  by  the  cattle. 

This  district  used  to  be  one  of  Hans’  favorite  camping 
places;  for,  besides  the  abundant  and  excellent  pasture- 
grounds,  it  was  largely  resorted  to  by  game  of  all  kinds,  and 
is  still  frequented  by  the  lion,  the  gemsfiok,  the  giraffe,  the 
zebra,  the  gnoo,  the  rhinoceros,  and  several  other  animals. 

We  were  to  have  resumed  our  journey  on  the  following 
night,  but  in  the  interval  Hans’  right  hand  and  arm  had 
suddenly,  and  from  some  unknown  cause,  swelled  in  a most 
alarming  manner.  In  consequence  of  this  mishap,  we  found 
it  necessary  to  devote  another  day  to  rest. 


92  GUINEA-FOWL TROOP  OF  GIRAFFES. 

On  the  evening  of  our  arrival  at  Onanis,  we  had  started 
an  immense  number  of  Guinea-fowls  near  the  water,  and, 
thinking  it  a favorable  opportunity  to  replenish  our  exhaust- 
ed larder,  I slung  a double-barreled  gun  across  my  shoulder, 
and  immediately  started  off;  but,  though  I soon  found  the 
birds,  they  were  so  wild  that  for  a long  time  I could  not  get 
within  range  of  them.  At  last,  after  having  chased  them 
about  the  rocks  till  I was  nearly  tired,  they  scattered  them- 
selves among  the  stones,  and  lay  so  close  that,  unless  I 
almost  trod  upon  them,  they  would  not  rise.  With  a steady 
pointer,  I believe  the  whole  flock  might  easily  have  been 
killed,  and,  as  it  was,  I made  a very  large  bag. 

The  flesh  of  the  wild  Guinea-fowl — that  of  the  young,  at 
least — is  tender  and  well-flavored,  and.  their  eggs  are  excel- 
lent. The  speed  of  this  bird  is  almost  incredible.  On  even 
ground  a man  is  no  match  for  it.  Where  the  country  is  well 
wooded,  the  best  plan  to  shoot  them  is  with  a “cocker,”  or 
other  dog  that  challenges  freely  to  them  when  “treed;59 
for  while  the  birds  are  intently  watching  his  movements, 
they  may  easily  be  approached  within  gun-shot.  With  a 
small  pea-rifle  this  sort  of  sport  is  particularly  amusing. 

Early  on  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day,  Hans  having 
now  partially  recovered,  we  started  from  Onanis,  and  with 
the  exception  of  a short  stoppage,  for  the  purpose  of  prepar- 
ing some  coffee  and  to  allow  the  cattle  to  take  a few  mouth- 
fuls of  grass,  we  traveled  throughout  the  whole  night. 

Soon  after  daylight  we  discovered  a numerous  troop  of 
giraffes.  The  country,  however,  was  open  and  unfavorable 
for  stalking,  and  before  we  could  get  within  range  they  were 
off.  The  speed  of  these  animals  is  by  no  means  inconsider- 
able, more  especially  on  gently  rising  ground.  In  such  a 
locality,  and  from  their  being  very  long-winded,  a tolerably 
swift  horse  is  seldom  able  to  overtake  them  under  less  than 
two  or  three  miles.  It  is  one  of  the  most  curious  sights  im- 
aginable to  see  a troop  of  these  animals  at  full  speed,  balance 


ATTACKED  BY  LIONS. 


93 


ing  themselves  to  and  fro  in  a manner  not  easily  described, 
and  whisking,  at  regular  intervals,  from  side  to  side,  their  tails, 
tufted  at  the  end,  while  their  long  and  tapering  necks,  sway- 
ing backward  and  forward,  follow  the  motion  of  their  bodies. 

On  account  of  the  many  short  turns,  the  hilly  nature  of 
the  ground  in  places,  and  the  unusual  length  of  the  wagons, 
we  anticipated  considerable  difficulty  in  the  course  of  this 
stage.  But  we  got  safely  through  it  without  accident  of  any 
kind,  and  arrived  at  Tjobis  Fountain  about  nine  o’clock. 

We  left  this  place  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  resting  for  an  hour  or  two  by  the  way,  we 
pushed  on  throughout  the  night. 

At  daybreak,  and  just  as  we  reached  the  Swakop,  we 
were  suddenly  startled  by  the  most  tremendous  roaring  of 
lions,  which  evidently  were  close  at  hand.  In  a few  mo- 
ments afterward,  two  of  those  magnificent  beasts — male  and 
female — emerged  from  the  bushes  at  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  paces  ahead  of  us.  On  perceiving  the  cavalcade,  they 
gave  another  terrific  roar,  of  so  angry  a nature  as  to  cause 
the  greatest  consternation  among  the  cattle.  Those  attached 
to  the  foremost  wagon  wheeled  round  instantaneously,  and, 
before  it  was  possible  to  prevent  them,  ran  right  into  the 
midst  of  the  aftermost  team,  and  I expected  every  moment 
to  see  the  vehicles  capsized  or  smashed  to  atoms. 

What  with  the  bellowing  of  the  oxen,  the  shouting  and 
screaming  of  the  men,  the  smashing  and  breaking  of  yokes, 
&c.,  and  the  continued  roar  of  the  lions,  the  scene  was  such 
as  to  baffle  all  description. 

The  lion  himselfj  after  having  approached  very  near  to  us, 
again  retreated  into  the  bushes  ; but  the  lioness  seated  her- 
self quietly  within  less  than  a hundred  yards  of  the  wagons, 
growling  most  furiously.  Throwing  the  reins  over  the  saddle 
of  u Spring,”  who,  by-the-by,  had  nearly  unseated  me  on  the 
first  appearance  of  the  lions,  I sprang  to  the  ground,  and 
seizing  a double-barreled  gun,  which  I always  kept  loaded 


94 


ATTACKED  BY  LIONS. 


for  emergences,  I made  toward  the  beast,  intending  to  punish 
her  for  her  audacity,  when  Hans  imploringly  begged  me  to 
desist.  “For,”  said  he,  “if  you  do  not  shoot  her  dead  on 
the  spot,  she  will  be  down  upon  us  in  an  instant.” 

Allowing  myself  to  be  guided  by  his  advice,  I refrained 
from  firing,  but  nevertheless  took  up  my  position  within  about 
fifty  paces  of,  and  opposite  to  the  lioness,  as  well  to  draw  off 
her  attention  from  the  men,  and  thus  enable  them  to  put  the 
cattle  and  vehicles  to  rights,  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  give  her 
a warm  reception,  should  she  think  proper  to  charge. 

A short  time  before  we  were  thus  unceremoniously  at- 
tacked, one  of  the  draft  oxen,  which  had  always  been  very 
wild,  managed  to  escape  from  the  yoke,  and  a fleet-footed 
Damara  was  left  behind  to  bring  him  on.  In  the  midst  of 
our  confusion,  we  heard  cries  of  distress  and  loud  shouting 
behind  us,  and,  on  looking  round,  we  saw,  to  our  horror,  the 
lion  in  full  chase  as  well  of  the  refractory  ox  as  the  man, 
who  was  trying  to  keep  off  his  fierce  pursuer  by  violently 
waving  the  fire-brand  which  he  carried  in  his  hand.*  Tell- 
ing Hans  to  mind  the  lioness  as  well  as  he  could  in  my  ab- 
sence, I immediately  ran  to  the  rescue  of  the  Damara  and 
his  charge ; but,  before  I had  proceeded  far,  the  ox,  catching 
sight  of  the  remainder  of  the  herd,  made  a successful  dash 
right  across  the  lion’s  path,  and  fortunately  rejoined  us  in 
safety.  The  object  of  the  lion  was  clearly  more  the  beast 
than  the  man ; for,  upon  finding  himself  thus  suddenly  baf- 
fled, he  stopped  short,  and  with  a savage  look  at  us,  and  an 
angry  growl,  bounded  out  of  sight  as  quick  as  thought ; and 
by  the  time  I returned  to  the  wagons,  the  lioness  had  thought 
fit  to  follow  her  lord’s  example.  Thus,  almost  without  any 
effort  on  our  side,  we  were  providentially  saved  from  this 
most  extraordinary  and  dangerous  attack. 

* In  the  nights  the  Damaras  invariably  carry  a fire-brand,  which 
they  hold  close  to  their  bodies,  in  order  to  shelter  themselves,  in  some 
degree,  from  the  wind  and  cold. 


ARRIVE  AT  RICHTERFELDT A HEARTY  WELCOME.  95 

At  the  first  appearance  of  the  lions  the  men  took  refuge 
in  the  wagons,  and  long  after  the  danger  was  over  they 
trembled  violently  from  fear  and  apprehension. 

As  a general  rule,  a lion,  unless  previously  molested,  will 
seldom  attack  an  ox  in  the  yoke  or  when  attended  by  man, 
but  long  abstinence  makes  him  desperate. 

After  considerable  trouble  and  difficulty,  we  succeeded  in 
rearranging  the  oxen,  which  had  become  excessively  scared. 
Two  or  three  hours’  further  traveling  brought  us,  without 
other  mishap,  safe  to  Richterfeldt,  where  our  hair-breadth 
escape  was  listened  to  with  the  deepest  interest. 

We  had  left  Scheppmansdorf,  as  said,  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  13th  of  November,  and  reached  our  present  quarters 
early  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  of  the  same  month.  The 
whole  of  the  distance  by  road  could  not  have  been  much  less 
than  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  Having  performed  this 
in  five  stages,  and  in  about  the  same  number  of  days,  our 
rate  of  traveling,  at  an  average,  had  been  twenty-five  miles 
daily.  Taking  into  consideration  the  nature  of  the  ground, 
the  young  and  half-broken  oxen,  &c.,  it  may  fairly  be  con- 
sidered first-rate  speed,  and  our  efforts  were  loudly  praised 
by  every  one. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

A hearty  Welcome. — We  remove  the  Encampment. — An  Apparition. 
— Audacity  of  wild  Beasts. — Depriving  Lions  of  their  Prey. — Ex- 
cessive Heat.— Singular  effects  of  great  Heat. — Depart  for  Barmen. 
—Meet  a troop  of  Zebras. — Their  flesh  not  equal  to  Yenison. — The 
Missionary’s  Wall. — A sad  Catastrophe.— The  “ Kameel-Doorn.”— 
Buxton  Fountain. — The  Scorpion. — Arrival  at  Barmen. 

Immediately  on  our  arrival  at  Richterfeldt  we  were  sur- 
rounded by  scores  of  natives,  who,  with  yells,  vociferations, 
clapping  of  hands,  grotesque  dances,  and  so  forth,  testified 
their  joy  at  our  return.  Mr.  Rath,  moreover,  highly  complk 


96 


LEAVE  OF  ABSENCE  GRANTED. 


merited  us  on  the  dispatch  with  which  we  had  broken-in  the 
oxen  and  performed  the  journey. 

Mr.  Galton,  I ascertained,  had  lately  departed  for  Barmen, 
Mr.  Hahn’s  station.  I determined  to  follow  him  as  soon  as 
I had  taken  sufficient  rest  after  my  fatiguing  journey.  In  the 
mean  time,  the  wagons  were  to  remain  at  Richterfeldt  till 
our  return  to  that  place. 

At  first  we  pitched  our  camp  in  the  same  spot  we  had  oc- 
cupied previously  to  our  departure  for  Scheppmansdorf ; but 
the  high  palisades  that  protected  it  had  been  destroyed  in  our 
absence  by  the  natives,  who  had  carried  away  the  wood  for 
fuel.  This,  however,  was  of  little  consequence,  as  the  old 
inclosure  would  now  have  been  too  small  to  contain  both  the 
cattle  and  our  cumbersome  conveyances.  Moreover,  as  the 
place  was  situated  in  the  bed  of  a periodical  stream,  a tribu- 
tary of  the  Swakop,  and  as  the  rainy  season  was  fast  ap- 
proaching, it  would  have  been  imprudent  to  remain  here  any 
length  of  time.  Accordingly,  we  brought  our  wagons,  &c., 
to  Hans’  own  kraal,  which  was  near  at  hand  on  the  bank  of 
the  river,  as  there  we  should  be  perfectly  secure  in  case  of 
any  sudden  inundation. 

The  day  before  our  removal,  the  men  had  asked  and  ob- 
tained permission  to  spend  the  evening  with  Hans  at  his  en- 
campment. Even  the  dogs  had  absented  themselves,  and  I 
was  thus  left  altogether  alone.  This  night,  though  some- 
what warm,  was  delightfully  bright  and  still.  To  enjoy  the 
beautiful  weather,  I had  taken  my  bedding  out  of  the  wagon, 
and  placed  it  on  the  ground  alongside  the  wheels,  facing  a 
small  clump  of  low  tamarisk-trees,  distant  not  above  twenty 
paces.  Being  a bad  sleeper,  I lay  awake  until  a very  late 
hour.  All  nature  was  hushed  and  silent,  and  the  night  so 
calm  that  I might  have  heard  the  falling  of  a leaf.  Sudden- 
ly my  attention  was  drawn  to  the  tamarisk  grove,  whence 
proceeded  a low,  rustling  noise  like  that  of  some  animal  cau- 
tiously making  its  way  through  it.  Thinking  it  probable  that 


AUDACITY  OF  LIONS. 


97 


a hyaena  or  a jackal  was  about  to  pay  me  a visit,  I sat  up  in 
my  bed,  and  seizing  my  gun,  which  I invariably  kept  within 
reach,  I prepared  to  give  the  intruder  a warm  reception. 
Imagine  my  surprise,  however,  when,  instead  of  one  or  other 
of  these  skulking  animals,  a stately  lion  stood  suddenly  be- 
fore me ! In  an  instant  my  gun  was  pointed  at  his  breast ; 
but,  hoping  he  would  presently  turn  his  broadside  toward  me, 
which  would  have  given  me  a much  better  chance  of  destroy- 
ing him,  I refrained  from  firing.  In  this  expectation,  how- 
ever, I was  disappointed  ; for,  on  perceiving  the  wagons,  he 
retreated  a step  or  two,  and  uttering  a low  growl,  vanished 
the  next  moment  among  the  bushes. 

There  is  something  so  grand  and  imposing  in  the  appear- 
ance of  the  king  of  beasts  in  his  native  wilds,  more  especial- 
ly when  he  assumes  an  attitude  of  surprise  or  defiance,  that 
it  is  impossible  not  to  feel  more  or  less  awed  in  his  presence. 

On  mentioning  to  Mr.  Rath,  the  following  morning,  my  ad- 
venture of  the  preceding  night,  he  expressed  no  kind  of  sur- 
prise, for  the  tamarisk  grove  in  question  was  often  known, 
he  said,  to  harbor  lions  and  other  beasts  of  prey.  He  added, 
moreover,  that  lions  not  unfrequently  penetrated  thence  into 
his  garden,  and  even  approached  within  a few  paces  of  the 
dwelling-house  itself. 

Returning  somewhat  late  one  very  dark  night  from  Mr. 
Rath’s  house  to  our  encampment,  I was  suddenly  startled  by 
sounds  of  the  most  painful  description,  not  unlike  the  stifled 
groanings  of  a person  who  is  on  the  point  of  drowning.  It 
at  once  struck  me  that  the  lions  had  surprised  some  unfor- 
tunate native  while  lying  in  ambush  near  the  water  for  wild 
animals  that  came  there  to  drink.  While  listening  in  anxious 
suspense  to  the  wailings  in  question — which  gradually  be- 
came more  and  more  faint — there  reached  me  from  another 
quarter  a confused  sound  of  human  voices  and  of  hurried 
footsteps.  This  only  tended  to  confirm  my  first  impression ; 
but,  from  the  impenetrable  darkness,  I could  not  ascertain 

E 


98 


DEPRIVING  THE  LION  OF  HIS  PREY. 


any  thing  with  certainty.  Being  unable,  however,  to  endure 
the  suspense  any  longer,  and  regardless  of  the  danger  to  which 
I exposed  myself,  I caught  up  my  fowling-piece,  which  hap- 
pened to  be  loaded  with  ball,  and  set  out  in  the  direction 
whence  the  wailings,  now  fast  dying  away,  proceeded. 

I had  not  gone  very  far,  however,  before  I fell  in  with  a 
number  of  the  natives,  who  were  hastening  in  the  same  di- 
rection as  myself. 

My  road,  for  the  most  part,  lay  through  a dense  tamarisk 
coppice,  and  it  was  surprising  to  me  how  I ever  managed  to 
thread  the  labyrinth.  The  hope  of  saving  human  life,  how- 
ever, enabled  me  to  overcome  all  obstacles.  I might  have 
been  three  or  four  minutes  in  the  brake  when,  on  coming  to 
a small  opening,  I suddenly  encountered,  and  all  but  stumbled 
over,  a large  black  mass  lying  at  my  feet,  while  close  to  my 
ear  I heard  the  twang  of  a bow-string  and  the  whizzing  of 
an  arrow.  At  the  same  moment,  and  within  a very  few 
paces  of  where  I stood,  1 was  startled  by  the  terrific  roar  of 
a lion,  which  seemed  to  shake  the  ground  beneath  me.  This 
was  immediately  followed  by  a savage  and  exulting  cry  of 
triumph  from  a number  of  the  natives. 

Having  recovered  from  my  surprise,  I found  that  the  dark 
object  that  had  nearly  upset  me  was  one  of  the  natives  stoop- 
ing over  a dead  zebra,  which  the  lion  had  just  killed,  and 
then  learned,  for  the  first  time,  to  my  great  astonishment  as 
well  as  relief,  that  the  wailings  which  had  caused  me  so  much 
uneasiness,  and  which  I imagined  were  those  of  a dying  man, 
proceeded  from  this  poor  animal.* 

The  design  of  the  natives,  who,  from  the  first,  I take  it, 
well  knew  what  they  were  about,  was  simply  to  possess  them- 
selves of  the  zebra,  in  which  they  had  fully  succeeded.  While 

* I have  since  had  frequent  opportunities  of  hearing  the  dying  groans 
of  the  zebra,  which  in  reality  greatly  resemble  the  faint  gasps  and 
ejaculations  of  a drowning  man.  Even  the  subdued  neighings  of  this 
animal,  when  heard  from  a distance,  are  of  a very  melancholy  nature. 


DEPRIVING-  THE  LION  OF  HIS  PREY. 


99 


some  busied  themselves  in  lighting  a fire,  the  rest  joined  in  a 
sort  of  war-dance  round  the  carcass,  accompanied  by  the 
most  wild  and  fantastic  gestures,  totally  disregarding  the 
proximity  of  the  lion,  who  had  only  retreated  a few  paces. 
As  the  fire  began  to  blaze,  indeed,  we  could  distinctly  see  him 
pacing  to  and  fro  among  the  bushes  on  the  edge  of  the  river’s 
bank. 

He,  moreover,  forcibly  reminded  us  of  his  presence  by  cru- 
elly lacerating  a small  dog  belonging  to  one  of  the  party 
which  had  incautiously  approached  him  too  closely.  By  a 
slight  touch  of  his  murderous  paw  he  ripped  up  its  body 
from  head  to  foot ; but,  notwithstanding  its  entrails  dragged 
on  the  ground,  the  poor  creature  managed  to  crawl  to  our 
fire,  where  it  breathed  its  last  in  the  course  of  a few  seconds. 
It  was  a most  touching  sight  to  see  the  faithful  animal  wag- 
ging its  tail  in  recognition  of  its  master,  who  was  trying  to 
replace  the  intestines  and  to  stop  the  flow  of  the  blood. 

The  savage  features  of  the  natives,  which  received  an  un- 
naturally wild  character  as  the  glare  of  the  half-blazing  fire 
fell  upon  them  ; the  dying  dog,  with  his  wild  master  stoop- 
ing despondingly  over  him ; the  mutilated  carcass  of  the  ze- 
bra, and  the  presence  of  the  lion  within  a few  paces  of  us, 
presented  one  of  the  most  striking  scenes  it  was  ever  my  for- 
tune to  witness. 

Expecting  every  moment  that  the  lion  vrould  make  a dash 
at  us,  I stood  prepared  to  receive  him.  More  than  once,  in- 
deed, I leveled  my  gun  at  him,  and  was  on  the  point  of  pull- 
ing the  trigger ; but,  being  now  sufficiently  acquainted  with 
the  character  of  the  animal  to  know  that,  if  I did  not  shoot 
him  on  the  spot,  the  attempt  would  probably  prove  the 
death-signal  to  one  or  other  of  us,  I refrained  from  firing. 

Contrary  to  my  expectation,  however,  he  allowed  us  to 
cut  up  and  to  carry  away  the  entire  zebra  without  molest- 
ing us  in  any  way.  During  the  process,  the  natives  occa- 
sionally hurled  huge  burning  brands  at  the  beast ; but  these, 


100 


EXCESSIVE  HEAT. 


instead  of  driving  him  to  a distance,  had  only  the  effect  of 
making  him  the  more  savage.* 

Similar  attempts  to  deprive  the  lion  of  his  prey  are  of  fre- 
quent occurrence  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  Indeed,  it  is  no 
unusual  thing  to  find  a number  of  natives  residing  near  such 
pools  of  water  as  are  frequented  by  antelopes,  other  wild  an- 
imals, and  their  constant  attendant,  the  lion,  subsisting  al- 
most altogether  in  this  way,  or  on  carcasses  which  the  lion 
has  not  had  time  to  devour  before  the  return  of  day,  when  it 
is  his  habit  to  retire  to  his  lair. 

But  it  is  not  always  that  the  attempt  to  deprive  the  lion 
of  his  prey  succeeds  as  well  as  in  the  instance  just  mention- 
ed. Generally  speaking,  indeed,  if  he  is  famishing  with  hun- 
ger, he  turns  upon  his  assailants,  and  many  a man  has  thus 
lost  his  life.  One  often  meets  with  individuals,  either  muti- 
lated or  bearing  dreadful  scars,  the  result  of  wounds  received 
in  such  encounters. 

The  heat  had,  by  this  time,  become  almost  insupportable, 
and  it  was  only  with  great  inconvenience  that  a person  could 
move  about  after  the  sun  was  a few  hours  above  the  horizon. 
Even  the  cattle  were  dreadfully  distressed.  As  early  as 
eight  o’clock  in  the  morning  they  would  leave  off  grazing,  in 
order  to  seek  shelter  under  some  tree  or  bush  against  the 
scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  / 

Every  afternoon,  regularly  at  two  o’clock,  we  had  a strong 
breeze  from  the  westward.  Strange  to  say,  however,  this, 
though  coming  from  the  sea,  instead  of  cooling  the  atmos- 
phere, only  tended  to  increase  its  oppressiveness.  We  ex- 
perienced precisely  the  same  sensation  as  when  standing  be- 
fore the  mouth  of  a heated  oven.  The  quicksilver  rose  to 
such  a height  as  almost  to  make  us  doubt  our  own  eyes. 
Even  at  Scheppmansdorf,  which  is  situated  less  than  twenty 

* I have  been  told  that  on  a similar  occasion  to  the  present,  a lion 
was  so  injured  by  the  flaming  missiles  thrown  at  him,  that  he  was 
found  shortly  afterward  dead  of  his  wounds. 


EFFECTS  OF  EXCESSIVE  HEAT. 


101 


miles  as  the  crow  flies  from  the  sea,  and  where  there  is  al- 
most always  a refreshing  breeze,  the  thermometer,  at  noon, 
in  an  airy  situation,  and  in  the  shade,  rises,  for  many  days 
together,  to  110  degrees  of  Fahrenheit ! 

In  consequence  of  the  fiery  state  of  the  atmosphere,  every 
article  of  horn  or  wood  shrank  and  contracted  most  surprise 
ingly.  Even  the  gun-stocks,  made  of  the  best  English  wal- 
nut, lost  an  eighth  of  an  inch  of  their  original  solidity.  The 
ink  dried  in  the  pen  almost  the  instant  it  left  the  stand.* 

Our  wagons,  moreover,  which  on  leaving  Scheppmansdorf 
were  in  excellent  order,  were  now  quite  infirm.  The  spokes 
and  the  tires  became  loose,  and  the  felloes  and  naves  exhib- 
ited large  gaps  and  fissures.  To  save  them,  however,  as 
much  as  possible,  we  set  about  making  a shed  of  reeds  and 
rushes,  strongly  bound  together  by  cords  and  light  wooden 
sticks. 

As  soon  as  this  was  finished,  I began  my  preparations  for 
visiting  Galton  at  Barmen ; and  as  Mr.  Schoneberg  was  also 
anxious  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Hahn,  his  intended 
colleague,  it  was  agreed  that  we  should  travel  together.  On 
the  day  appointed  we  set  out,  mounted  on  oxen,  and  accom- 
panied by  a Hottentot  as  guide  and  interpreter.  Besides  his 
native  tongue,  this  man  spoke  Dutch  and  Damara  fluently. 

* Captain  Start,  who  in  his  explorations  in  Australia  seems  to  have 
experienced  the  same  heat  in  even  a greater  degree,  says, 

“ The  mean  of  the  thermometer  for  the  months  of  December,  Janu- 
ary, and  February  had  been  101,  104,  and  105  degrees  respectively,  in 
the  shade.  Under  its  effects,  every  screw  in  our  boxes  had  been 
drawn,  and  the  horn  Handles  of  our  instruments,  as  well  as  our  combs, 
were  split  into  fine  laminae.  The  lead  dropped  out  of  our  pencils,  and 
our  signal  rockets  were  entirely  spoiled;  our  hair,  as  well  as  the  wool 
on  the  sheep,  ceased  to  grow,  anfi  our  nails  had  become  brittle  as  glass. 
The  flour  lost  more  than  eight  per  cent,  of  its  original  weight,  and 
the  other  provisions  in  still  greater  proportion.”  In  another  part  of 
his  narrative,  this  enterprising  explorer  mentions  the  quicksilver  once 
to  have  risen  to  132  degrees  in  the  shade,  the  thermometer  being 
placed  in  the  fork  of  a tree,  five  feet  from  the  ground  ! 


102 


UN-OXED TROOP  OF  ZEBRAS. 


One  or  two  natives  were  also  engaged  to  drive  and  to  assist 
in  packing  the  oxen. 

As  usual,  I rode  “ Spring,”  and  Mr.  Schoneberg  an  ox 
lent  to  him  by  Mr.  Rath  ; but,  unfortunately,  the  latter  ani- 
mal turned  very  vicious,  and  before  we  had  proceeded  many 
hundred  yards  I saw  my  friend  pitched  head  foremost  into 
the  moist  bed  of  the  Swakop.  On  rising  from  his  uncom- 
fortable berth,  the  reverend  gentleman  looked  very  blank 
and  crestfallen,  and  nothing  could  again  induce  him  to  re- 
mount the  brute.  Being,  however,  anxious  to  prosecute  the 
journey,  I made  him  an  offer  of  my  own  ox,  which  was  grate- 
fully accepted. 

After  this  little  mishap,  all  went  on  well  for  a while. 
Unfortunately,  however,  in  an  unguarded  moment,  I too  was 
doomed  to  be  “un-oxed,”  to  the  great  delight  and  amuse- 
ment of  my  companion.  Confiding  in  his  superior  skill  in 
managing  a refractory  ox,  our  guide  now  generously  ex- 
changed with  me.  Notwithstanding  his  boasting,  he  was  as 
unfortunate  as  ourselves,  for  in  the  course  of  half  an  hour 
he  had  twice  bitten  the  dust.  Nothing  daunted,  however, 
he  mounted  a third  time,  and  ultimately  succeeded  in  con- 
vincing the  animal  that  he  was  determined  to  be  master. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  suddenly  came  upon  a troop 
of  zebras.  Quickly  dismounting,  I took  a running  shot  at 
them  as  they  were  disappearing  in  the  brushwood,  and  had 
the  good  fortune  to  bring  a fine  male  dead  to  the  ground. 
Immediately  “ off-saddling,”  we  helped  ourselves  to  the  best 
parts  of  the  meat,  leaving  the  rest  to  one  of  our  Damaras, 
who  thought  a “ tuck-out”  of  flesh — as  Hans  would  have 
called  it — preferable  to  a wearisome  journey  to  Barmen. 

The  flesh  of  the  zebra,  or  “wild  horse,”  as  the  Dutch  call 
it,  is  eatable,  but  by  no  means  good;  for,  besides  possessing 
a very  strong  odor  and  peculiar  flavor,  it  has  a very  oily 
taste.  With  plenty  of  pepper  and  salt,  however,  a steak  is 
not  to  be  despised  by  the  hungry  traveler. 


THE  MISSIONARY’S  WAIL. 


103 


The  heat  throughout  the  day  had  been  terrific.  Before 
the  sun  had  well  disappeared  behind  the  mountains  between 
which  we  traveled,  Mr.  Schoneberg  was  completely  knocked 
up,  and  we  were  obliged  to  encamp  for  the  night.  Each  of 
us  carried  a small  tin  water-can ; but,  instead  of  having  it 
filled,  as  I did,  with  the  pure  liquid,  Mrs.  Bath  had  kindly, 
but  unwisely,  provided  her  friend  with  a mixture  of  water, 
sugar,  and  cinnamon.  This,  as  may  be  supposed,  only  served 
to  increase  his  thirst. 

We  had  hardly  finished  removing  the  packs  and  saddles 
from  our  tired  steeds  before  the  poor  missionary  threw  him- 
self despondingly  on  the  ground,  exclaiming,  “ Ah ! Mr.  An- 
dersson,  if  we  were  to  tell  people  in  Europe  what  we  suffer 
here,  none  would  believe  us.”  I could  not  help  smiling  at 
this  burst  of  despair ; for,  though  from  the  heat  the  day  had 
been  distressing  enough,  we  had  by  no  means  suffered  either 
from  want  of  water  or  food.  Poor  Mr.  Schoneberg ! he  was 
totally  unfit  for  the  hardships  he  must  necessarily  encounter 
in  the  African  deserts.  Indeed,  not  many  weeks  afterward 
he  all  but  perished  from  his  inability  to  endure  thirst  for  a 
short  period. 

The  next  morning  at  daybreak  we  were  again  in  the  sad- 
dle. Our  course  was  northerly,  and  a little  by  east ; and  the 
greater  part  of  the  road  lay  some  distance  from  the  Swakop, 
which  at  one  point  forced  its  way  through  a narrow,  pic- 
turesque, and  bold  gorge. 

In  one  place  we  passed  at  the  foot  of  “ Scheppman’s  Mount- 
ain,” so  called  from  a melancholy  event  which  occurred  here 
a few  years  ago.  A missionary  named  Scheppman  had  made 
the  ascent  to  obtain  a view  of  the  surrounding  country,  but 
in  descending  the  cock  of  his  gun  was  caught  by  a bough, 
and  the  contents  were  lodged  in  one  of  his  legs.  After  hav- 
ing suffered  agonies  for  a few  days,  he  expired,  and  the  hill 
has  ever  since  gone  by  his  name. 

The  vegetation  was  more  rank  than  in  the  parts  we  had 


104 


THE  KAMEEL-DOORN. 


previously  traversed.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  crossed 
the  dry  beds  of  several  large,  sandy,  and  periodical  streams, 
which  were  all  tributaries  to  the  Swakop.  The  country  near 
these  streams  was  thickly  studded  with  splendid  forests  of 
the  gigantic  and  park-like  acacia,  known  to  the  Dutch  as  the 
“kameel-doorn,”  or  giraffe  thorn  (< acacia  giraffce).  This  tree 
derives  its  name  from  its  constituting  the  favorite  and  prin- 
cipal food  of  the  beautiful  camelopard.  On  account  of  its 
immense  size  and  peculiar  growth,  having  the  foliage  dis- 
posed from  the  top  downward  in  umbrella-shaped  masses,  it 
is  a great  ornament  to  the  country ; but,  strange  to  say,  it  is 
invariably  found  only  in  arid  districts. 

The  u kameel-doorn”  is  evidently  of  very  slow  growth,  and 
requires,  probably,  many  hundred  years  to  arrive  at  maturi- 
ty. The  grain  is  therefore  very  close ; and  the  wood  is  so 
heavy  that,  after  being  dried  for  years,  it  will  sink  when 
thrown  into  the  water.  Our  northern  oak  can  in  no  wise 
be  compared  with  it  as  regards  hardness  and  solidity.  The 
grain  is,  however,  rather  short,  and  the  wood  consequently 
brittle.  Notwithstanding  this  defect,  it  is  very  strong,  and 
is  extensively  used  for  building  purposes  and  implements  of 
husbandry.  It  is,  moreover,  almost  the  only  wood  strong 
enough  for  the  axle-trees  of  wagons.  Tools  of  the  best  ma- 
terials, however,  are  indispensable  in  working  it.  I have 
seen  many  a well-tempered  axe  and  adze  blunted  and  spoil- 
ed when  brought  in  contact  with  it.  The  outer  part  of  the 
tree  is  of  a whitish  color,  but  the  heart  is  reddish-brown,  not 
unlike  mahogany,  and  capable  of  a high  polish. 

It  is  in  the  branches  of  this  acacia,  mentioned  by  several 
South  African  travelers,  that  the  social  grossbeak  ( loxia  so- 
da) chiefly  constructs  its  interesting  and  singular  nest. 

Through  the  stupidity  and  mismanagement  of  our  guide, 
who  apparently  knew  but  little  of  the  road,  we  missed  a 
watering-place  where  we  were  to  have  halted,  and,  in  con- 
sequence, suffered  extremely  from  thirst.  Mr.  Schoneberg, 


BUXTON  FOUNTAIN SCORPIONS. 


105 


moreover,  had  been  very  unwell  during  the  day,  and  when 
we  arrived  at  the  end  of  the  stage,  which  was  not  until 
seven  o’clock  at  night,  he  was  even  more  fatigued  and  ex- 
hausted than  on  the  preceding  evening. 

We  bivouacked  by  the  side  of  “Buxton  Fountain,”  so 
called  in  honor  of  the  late  Sir  Thomas  Fowell  Buxton,  from 
whom  and  his  family,  if  I am  rightly  informed,  Mrs.  Hahn 
had  experienced  much  kindness.  It  is  a hot  spring,  and  the 
water,  which  flows  out  of  a granite  rock,  is  nearly  of  a boil- 
ing temperature,  and  has  k brackish  and  disagreeable  taste. 

The  soil,  moreover,  all  round  this  fountain  is  impregnated 
with  saline  substances.  A considerable  number  of  wild  ani- 
mals congregate  here  nightly  in  order  to  quench  their  thirst. 
Lions,  also,  are  at  times  numerous,  but  on  this  occasion 
they  did  not  molest  us. 

Having  partaken  of  some  supper,  I was  about  to  resign  my 
weary  limbs  to  repose,  when  suddenly  there  issued  from  a 
small  hole,  close  to  my  head,  a swarm  of  scorpions.  Their 
appearance  brought  me  to  my  feet  in  an  instant ; for,  though 
not  a particularly  nervous  man,  I am  free  to  confess  to  a 
great  horror  of  all  crawling  things. 

During  the  hot  months  these  animals  lie  dormant,  but 
on  the  approach  of  the  rainy  season  they  come  forth  in  great 
numbers.  On  removing  stones,  decayed  pieces  of  wood,  &c., 
it  is  necessary  to  be  very  cautious.  The  instant  the  scorpion 
feels  himself  in  contact  with  any  part  of  the  body  of  a man 
or  beast,  he  lifts  his  tail,  and  with  his  horny  sting  inflicts 
a wound  which,  though  rarely  fatal,  is  still  of  a very  painful 
nature.* 

Like  the  snake,  the  scorpion  is  fond  of  warmth,  and  it  is 
not  uncommon,  on  awakening  in  the  morning,  to  find  one  or 

* “The  black,  or  rock  scorpion,”  says  Lieutenant  Patterson,  “is 
nearly  as  venomous  as  any  of  the  serpent  tribe.  A farmer,  who  re- 
sided at  a place  called  the  Paarle,  near  the  Cape,  was  stung  by  one  in 
the  foot  during  my  stay  in  the  country,  and  died  in  a few  hours.” 

E 2 


106 


BARMEN. 


two  of  these  horrid  creatures  snugly  ensconced  in  the  folds  ol 
the  blanket  or  under  the  pillow.  On  one  occasion  I killed 
a scorpion  measuring  nearly  seven  and  a half  inches  in 
length,  that  had  thus  unceremoniously  introduced  itself  into 
my  bed. 

The  following  morning  our  guide  declared  it  to  be  only  a 
few  hours’  further  traveling  to  Barmen.  We  therefore  did 
not  hurry  our  departure,  but  took  ample  time  to  prepare, 
and  to  partake  of,  a substantial  breakfast,  consisting  of  some 
strong  coffee,  and  steaks  of  zebra-flesh,  simply  prepared  on 
the  hot  embers  of  our  bivouac  fire. 

We  arrived  at  Barmen  just  as  the  family  was  sitting  down 
to  dinner,  and  Mr.  Hahn  kindly  invited  us  to  join  in  the  am- 
ple repast.  I was  happy  to  find  Mr.  Gal  ton  in  the  enjoyment 
of  health  and  excellent  spirits,  and  he  seemed  delighted  at 
our  safe  and  speedy  return. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Barmen. — Thunder-storm  in  the  Tropics. — A Man  killed  by  Light- 
ning.— Warm  Spring. — Mr.  Hahn:  his  Missionary  Labor;  Seed 
sown  in  exceeding  stony  Ground. — The  Lake  Omanbonde. — Mr. 
Gabon’s  Mission  of  Peace. — The  Author  meets  a Lion  by  the  way ; 
the  Beast  bolts. — Singular  Chase  of  a Gnoo. — “Killing  two  Birds 
with  one  Stone.” — A Lion  Hunt.— The  Author  escapes  Death  by  a 
Miracle. — Consequences  of  shooting  on  a Sunday. 

At  a first  glance,  Barmen  has  a rather  dreary  aspect. 
Hans  thought  it  resembled  many  of  the  most  desolate  parts 
of  Iceland  ; but,  when  more  closely  examined,  it  is  found  to 
be  by  no  means  devoid  either  of  interest  or  beauty.  It  is 
situated  about  three  quarters  of  a mile  from  the  Swakop, 
and  on  its  right  bank.  Toward  the  west,  and  immediately 
behind  the  station,  rise  irregular  masses  of  low,  broken  rocks, 
ending  abruptly  on  one  side  in  a bluff,  about  one  thousand 
feet  high.  The  whole  are  covered  with  a profusion  of  shrubs, 


A THUNDER-STORM  IN  THE  TROPICS. 


107 


and  several  species  of  thorn-trees  of  the  genus  acacia,  which, 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  assume  every  shade  of 
green.  To  the  eastward  it  faces  the  Swakop,  the  course  of 
which  is  conspicuously  marked  by  the  handsome  black- 
stemmed  mimosa.  Beyond  this,  the  view  is  limited  by  a 
noble  range  of  picturesque  mountains,  rising  between  six 
and  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the'  sea.  These 
receive  additional  interest  from  being  more  or  less  a continu- 
ation of  those  mighty  chains  which  take  their  rise  a very  few 
miles  from  Cape-Town,  thus  extending,  in  a direct  line, 
about  one  thousand  miles. 

Within  a stone’ s-throw  of  the  missionary  house,  a turbu- 
lent mountain  stream  winds  its  tortuous  course.  It  flows, 
however,  only  during  heavy  rains,  when  its  great  fall  and 
violence  prove  very  destructive  to  the  native  gardens. 

About  two  years  from  the  period  of  which  I am  now 
writing,  I happened  to  be  on  a visit  to  Barmen,  on  w'hich 
occasion  I witnessed  one  of  those  extraordinary  phenomena 
only  to  be  seen  to  perfection  in  tropical  climes.  One  after- 
noon, heavy  and  threatening  clouds  suddenly  gathered  in  the 
eastern  horizon,  the  thunder  rolled  ominously  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  the  sky  was  rent  by  vivid  lightnings.  Knowing, 
from  long  experience,  its  imports,  we  instantly  set  about 
placing  every  thing  under  shelter  that  could  be  injured  by 
the  wet.  This  was  hardly  accomplished  when  large  drops 
of  rain  began  to  descend,  and  in  a few  seconds  the  sluice- 
gates of  heaven  appeared  to  have  opened.  The  storm  did 
not  last  above  half  an  hour,  but  this  short  time  was  suffi- 
cient to  convert  the  wdiole  country  into  one  sheet  of  water. 
The  noise,  moreover,  caused  by  the  river  and  a number  of 
minor  mountain  streams,  as  they  rolled  down  their  dark, 
muddy  torrents  in  waves  rising  often  as  high  as  ten  feet,  was 
perfectly  deafening.  Gigantic  trees,  recently  uprooted,  and 
others  in  a state  of  decay,  were  carried  away  with  irresistible 
fury,  and  tossed  about  on  the  foaming  billows  like  so  many 


108 


MR.  HAHN. 


straws.  Every  vestige  of  many  gardens  was  swept  away ; 
and  some  of  the  native  huts,  which  had  been  imprudently 
erected  too  close  to  the  river,  shared  a similar  fate.  Indeed, 
it  must  have  been  a miniature  deluge. 

Wonderful,  however,  as  is  the  sudden  creation  of  these 
floods,  the  very  short  time  they  require  to  disappear  is  no  less 
striking.  An  hour’s  sunshine  is  sometimes  sufficient  to  trans- 
form flooded  fields  into  a smiling  landscape. 

These  commotions  of  the  elements  are  of  frequent  occur- 
rence in  the  tropics  during  the  rainy  season.  Soon  after  Mr. 
Galton’s  arrival  at  Barmen  there  was  a very  heavy  thunder- 
storm. One  evening,  as  he  and  Mr.  Hahn  were  conversing, 
they  saw  a Damara  struck  dead  by  lightning  within  a hund- 
red yards  of  where  they  stood. 

Water  was  abundant  at  Barmen,  and  very  good.  Mr. 
Hahn  had  dug  a large  well  in  his  own  garden,  which  was  of 
very  great  convenience  and  comfort,  as  the  water  thus  ob- 
tained was  always  clean  and  wholesome.  Within  a couple 
of  hundred  paces  of  the  dwelling-house  there  were,  moreover, 
two  copious  fountains.  One  of  these  was  a warm  spring, 
the  temperature  being  157  degrees  of  Fahrenheit.  By  means 
of  small  channels,  this  spring  was  made  to  irrigate  a consid- 
erable portion  of  garden  land,  and  was  also  of  great  use  in 
seasoning  timber.  To  the  laundress,  besides,  it  was  invalu- 
able. During  our  stay  at  Barmen  we  indulged  freely  in  the 
unusual  and  uncommon  luxury  of  a bath,  but  it  proved 
somewhat  relaxing. 

Mr.  Hahn  was  a Russian  by  birth,  but  had,  for  a number 
of  years,  devoted  himself  to  the  service  of  the  German  Rhen- 
ish Missionary  Society,  and  was  now  using  his  best  endeav- 
ors to  convert  the  natives  of  this  benighted  land.  At  first 
he  had  settled  among  a tribe  of  Namaquas,  under  the  pow- 
erful robber  - chief  Jonker  Afrikaner,  of  whom  presently. 
Finding,  however,  that  these  people  infinitely  preferred  to 
cut  the  throats  of  their  fellow-creatures  than  to  listen  to  his 


THE  MISSIONARIES  AND  THE  NATIVES* 


109 


exhortations,  and  knowing,  moreover,  that  several  mission- 
aries had  already  established  themselves  throughout  various 
parts  of  Great  Namaqua-land,  he  thought  that  he  might  use 
his  influence  to  more  advantage  with  the  Damaras,  among 
whom,  therefore,  he  had  pitched  his  tent.  Messrs.  Rath  and 
Kolbe  were  his  coadjutors  in  the  good  cause. 

Seeing  that  their  best  endeavors  were  of  little  avail  with- 
out a proper  knowledge  of  the  Damara  language,  they  work- 
ed hard  in  order  to  master  it,  but  the  difficulty  was  immense. 
At  last,  by  the  merest  chance,  they  discovered  the  key  to  it, 
and  from  that  moment  they  made  rapid  progress ; so  much 
so  that,  in  the  course  of  a few  years,  Mr.  Hahn  was  able  to 
return  to  Germany,  where  he  has  compiled  and  published  a 
grammar  and  dictionary. 

On  the  first  appearance  of  the  missionaries  in  Damara- 
land,  the  natives  were  very  reserved,  and  retired  with  their 
cattle  into  the  interior.  Being  wholly  dependent  on  them 
for  supplies  of  live-stock,  the  settlers  suffered  great  hardships 
and  privations.  Indeed,  on  more  than  one  occasion  starva- 
tion stared  them  in  the  face,  and  they  lived  for  a long  time 
in  a precarious  way  on  such  wild  animals  as  their  Hottentot 
servants  managed  to  kill.  The  Damaras,  moreover,  prob- 
ably judging  others  by  themselves,  conceived  the  idea  that 
the  missionaries  had  come  into  the  country  with  some  sinis- 
ter object,  and  that  it  would  be  advisable  to  frustrate  it. 
Accordingly,  they  assembled  in  great  numbers  within  a few 
miles  of  Barmen  for  the  purpose  of  exterminating  the  new 
settlers.  Their  diabolical  intentions  were,  however,  frustrated 
by  the  counsel  of. one  of  their  tribe.  At  the  time  of  which 
I am  now  writing,  Mr.  Hahn  and  his  coadjutors  had  com- 
pletely succeeded  in  pacifying  and  conciliating  the  Damaras, 
and  a great  number  of  the  poorer  classes  were  now  living  at 
the  station,  where,  by  a little  industry  and  perseverance, 
many  managed  to  live  in  tolerable  comfort.  The  great 
source  of  their  wealth  consisted  in  the  cultivation  of  tobacco, 


110  THE  SEED  IS  SOWN  IN  VERY  STONY  GROUND. 

which  here  grew  to  perfection,  the  leaves  of  this  plant  often 
attaining  the  size  of  three  feet  by  two.  What  they  did  not 
consume  themselves  was  bartered  for  cattle  to  their  wealth- 
ier countrymen. 

Here,  however,  their  civilization  seemed  to  be  at  a stand- 
still.' The  missionaries  were  laudably  and  strenuously  ex- 
erting themselves  in  their  behalf,  but  as  yet  they  had  met 
with  little  or  no  encouragement.  To  the  mind  of  a Damara, 
the  idea  of  men  visiting  them  solely  from  love  and  charity 
is  utterly  inconceivable.  They  can  not  banish  a suspicion 
that  the  motives  of  the  stranger  must  be  interested ; and 
they  not  unfrequently  require  a bribe  in  return  for  any  serv- 
ices they  may  render  to  the  missionary  cause.  As  an  in- 
stance of  the  utter  failure  of  religious  zeal  in  these  parts,  I 
may  mention  that  Mr.  Hahn,  who  is  liked  and  respected  by 
the  natives,  never  succeeded,  as  he  himself  told  me,  in  con- 
verting a single  individual!  In  one  instance,  however,  he 
imagined  that  he  had  made  a convert ; but,  before  the  indi- 
vidual in  question  could  be  finally  admitted  as  a member  of 
the  Christian  Church,  it  was  necessary  that  he  should  give 
satisfactory  answers  to  certain  questions.  One  of  these  was, 
whether,  according  to  the  usages  of  Christianity,  he  would 
be  contented  with  one  wife.  To  this  the  man  replied  that 
though  he  was  very  anxious  to  oblige  Mr.  Hahn  and  his 
friends  personally,  and  to  further  the  objects  of  the  mission 
in  every  way  possible,  yet  his  conscience  would  not  permit 
him  to  make  so  great  a sacrifice  as  that  required. 

The  wealthy  Damaras  were  even  more  indifferent  to  spir- 
itual matters  than  their  poorer  brethren  ; and  if  they  hap- 
pened to  visit  any  of  the  stations,  it  was  not  for  the  purpose 
of  hearing  the  Gospel  preached,  but  either  in  the  hope  of 
protection  against  their  enemies,  or  with  a view  to  business 
by  bartering  tobacco,  iron- ware,  and  so  forth.  One  excep- 
tion to  this  rule  was  found  in  the  case  of  the  chief  Kahichene, 
who  had  settled  with  part  of  his  tribe  at  Schmelen’s  Hope. 


THE  LAKE  OMANBONDE. 


Ill 


Mr.  Galton  had  not  been  idle  during  my  absence.  Be- 
sides collecting  much  interesting  information  with  regard  to 
the  Damaras  and  the  Namaquas,  he  had  ascertained  the  ex- 
istence of  a fresh-water  lake  called  Omanbonde.  This  had 
the  effect  of  raising  our  spirits  considerably.  We  had  land- 
ed at  Walfisch  Bay  with  a vague  idea  as  to  our  route,  and 
had  hitherto  felt  quite  at  a loss  how  to  act. 

To  enable  us  to  reach  Omanbonde  it  was  necessary  to 
pass  through  Damara-land,  which  was  totally  unknown  to 
Europeans.  Even  the  missionaries  who  had  resided  several 
years  on  the  frontiers  were  ignorant  of  the  country  beyond 
a very  few  miles  of  their  own  stations.  The  Damaras  them- 
selves entertained  the  most  extravagant  notions  of  its  extent, 
population,  and  fertility.  The  people,  however,  were  known 
to  be  inhospitable,  treacherous,  suspicious,  and  inimical  to 
strangers.  It  had  always  been  considered  insecure  to  travel 
among  them,  but  more  particularly  so  at  this  time,  since 
their  southern  neighbors,  the  Namaquas,  attracted  by  their 
vast  herds,  had  lately  made  several  extensive  raids  upon 
them,  killing  the  people,  and  carrying  off  large  numbers  of 
cattle,  sheep,  &c.  They  believed,  and  with  some  show  of 
reason,  that  every  individual  of  a light  complexion  was 
leagued  against  them.  They  well  knew  that  the  cattle  stolen 
from  them  by  their  enemies,  the  Namaquas,  were  sold  to 
European  traders ; and  they  knew,  also,  that  if,  by  accident 
or  design,  the  cattle  belonging  to  the  missionaries,  or  other 
white  men,  were  stolen  by  the  thievish  people  in  question, 
they  were  always  .restored  on  application.  This,  together 
with  the  fact  than  a European  could  pass  unmolested 
through  the  Namaqua  territory,  strengthened  them  in  the 
conviction  that  we  were  enemies  in  disguise. 

In  order,  therefore,  to  calm  their  excited  feelings,  to  as- 
sure them  of  our  friendly  and  peaceable  intentions,  and  to 
explain  to  them  the  real  motive  of  our  journey,  Mr.  Galton 
had  dispatched  messengers  to  the  principal  Damara  chiefs. 


112 


A SURPRISE. 


He  also  wrote  to  Jonker  Afrikaner  (having  previously  sent 
messengers  to  him  while  at  Kichterfeldt),  remonstrating  with 
him  on  the  barbarity  and  injustice  of  his  conduct.  Jonker 
is  a leading  chieftain  among  the  Namaqua-Hottentots.  He 
headed  in  person  the  greater  part  of  the  marauding  expedi- 
tions  into  Damara-land. 

Having  spent  a few  days  agreeably  and  usefully  at  Bar- 
men, we  prepared  to  return  to  our  camp  at  Richterfeldt ; but 
when  the  day  of  departure  had  arrived,  I felt  very  feverish, 
and  Galton  was  obliged  to  prosecute  his  journey  without  me. 
In  a short  time,  however,  I was  able  to  follow. 

On  riding  briskly  along  early  one  morning,  I observed,  as 
I thought,  a solitary  zebra  a few  hundred  yards  in  advance. 
Instantly  alighting,  and  leaving  “ Spring”  to  take  care  of 
himself,  I made  toward  the  quarry,  gun  in  hand,  under  cover 
of  a few  small  trees.  Having  proceeded  for  some  distance,  I 
peeped  cautiously  from  behind  a bush,  when  I found,  to  my 
astonishment,  that  the  animal  which  I had  taken  for  a zebra 
was  nothing  less  than  a noble  lion.  He  was  quietly  gazing 
at  me.  I must  confess  I felt  a little  startled  at  the  unex- 
pected apparition ; but,  recovering  quickly  from  my  surprise, 
I advanced  to  meet  him.  He,  however,  did  not  think  fit  to 
wait  till  I was  within  proper  range,  but  turned  tail,  and  fled 
toward  the  Swakop.  Hoping  to  be  able  to  come  to  close 
quarters  with  him,  I followed  at  the  top  of  my  speed,  and 
was  rapidly  gaining  ground  on  the  brute,  when  suddenly, 
with  two  or  three  immense  bounds,  he  cleared  an  open  space, 
and  was  the  next  moment  hidden  from  view  among  the  thick 
reeds  that  here  lined  the  banks  of  the  river.  Having  no 
dogs  with  me,  all  my  efforts  to  dislodge  him  from  his  strong- 
hold proved  unavailing.  While  still  lingering  about  the 
place,  I came  upon  the  carcass  of  a gnoo,  on  which  a troop 
of  lions  had  apparently  been  feasting  not  many  minutes  pre- 
viously. Undoubtedly  my  somewhat  dastardly  friend  had 
been  one  of  the  party. 


CHASE  OE  A GNOO. 


113 


In  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  that  I reached  Richter- 
feldt  a very  exciting  and  animating  chase  took  place.  A 
gnoo  had  been  slightly  wounded  by  a Hottentot  servant  of 
Mr.  Rath.  The  natives,  who  had  watched  the  whole  affair 
from  the  station,  immediately  gave  chase  to  the  animal. 
Finding  itself  hard  pressed,  the  gnoo,  in  its  fright,  took  ref- 
uge in  the  village,  where  it  was  quickly  liemmed  in  on  all 
sides.  Every  woman  and  child  had  turned  out  to  witness  its 
destruction,  while  the  men  were  vociferously  contending  about 
the  right  to  the  carcass.  Assegais  and  arrows,  moreover, 
were  whizzing  thick  round  our  ears,  and  I had  considerable 
difficulty  in  making  my  way  through  this  scene  of  confusion 
to  the  poor  gnoo,  which  I found  at  bay  in  the  middle  of  Mr. 
Rath’s  sheep-kraal,  not  twenty  feet  from  his  own  dwelling. 
It  was  pierced  with  two  assegais,  and  the  blood  flowed  in 
streams  down  its  panting  and  foaming  sides. 

Though  the  gnoo  is  but  a comparatively  small  animal,  its 
high  fore  quarters,  its  coarse  and  shaggy  mane,  and  its  buffalo 
head,  gives  it  a very  imposing  and  formidable  appearance. 
It  was  impatiently  stamping  and  striking  the  ground  with  its 
fore  feet,  and  its  looks  seemed  to  bid  defiance  to  us  all. 

At  some  risk,  on  account  of  the  immense  concourse  of 
people  assembled,  I put  a ball  through  the  animal’s  shoul- 
ders, which  at  once  ended  its  sufferings.  A few  minutes  more 
- — nay,  rather  seconds — -there  was  not  a vestige  to  be  seen  of 
it.  Indeed,  it  was  literally  torn  to  pieces  by  the  natives. 

On  paying  my  respects,  later  in  the  evening,  to  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Rath,  I was  politely  informed  that  the  penalty  for 
shooting  the  gnoo  was  a goat.  This  being  explained,  I found, 
to  my  surprise,  that  the  ball  had  passed  clean  through  the 
antelope,  and  had  struck  dead  a goat  belonging  to  these 
worthy  people. 

The  day  previously  to  my  reaching  the  encampment,  Mr. 
Galton  had  started  on  an  excursion  to  the  westward.  His 
object  was  chiefly  to  procure  cattle  from  the  natives,  for  we 


114 


LION  HUNT. 


had  not  yet  succeeded  in  obtaining  a sufficiency  of  animals. 
He  was  also  anxious  to  see  and  explore  Erongo,  a mountain 
famous  at  once  for  its  peculiar  formation,  and  as  a strong- 
hold of  that  curious  race,  the  Hill-Damaras.  Mr.  Galton 
was  accompanied  by  Hans,  who  had  already  visited  the  place, 
and  a few  other  servants.  On  his  return  from  Erongo,  we 
were  to  start,  with  the  wagons,  up  the  country. 

One  day,  when  eating  my  humble  dinner,  I was  interrupt- 
ed by  the  arrival  of  several  natives,  who,  in  breathless  haste, 
related  that  an  ongeamci , or  lion,  had  just  killed  one  of  their 
goats  close  to  the  mission  station  (Richterfeldt),  and  begged 
of  me  to  lend  them  a hand  in  destroying  the  beast.  They 
had  so  often  cried  “ wolf”  that  I did  not  give  much  heed  to 
their  statements ; but,  as  they  persisted  in  their  story,  I at 
last  determined  to  ascertain  its  truth.  Having  strapped  to 
my  waist  a shooting-belt,  containing  the  several  requisites  of 
a hunter,  such  as  bullets,  caps,  knife,  &c.,  I shouldered  my 
trusty  double-barreled  gun  (aftes  loading  it  with  steel-point- 
ed balls),  and  followed  the  men. 

In  a short  time  we  reached  the  spot  where  the  lion  was 
believed  to  have  taken  refuge.  This  was  in  a dense  tama- 
risk brake  of  some  considerable  extent,  situated  partially  on 
and  below  the  sloping  banks  of  the  Swakop,  near  to  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Ommutenna,  one  of  its  tributaries. 

On  the  rising  ground  above  the  brake  in  question  were 
drawn  up,  in  battle  array,  a number  of  Damaras  and  Nama- 
quas,  some  armed  with  assegais,  and  a few  with  guns.  Oth- 
ers of  the  party  were  in  the  brake  itself,  endeavoring  to  oust 
the  lion. 

But  as  it  seemed  to  me  that  the  “ beaters”  were  timid, 
and,  moreover,  somewhat  slow  in  their  movements,  I called 
them  back,  and,  accompanied  by  only  one  or  two  persons,  as 
also  a few  worthless  dogs,  entered  the  brake  myself.  It  was 
rather  a dangerous  proceeding ; for,  in  places,  the  cover  was 
so  thick  and  tangled  as  to  oblige  me  to  creep  on  my  hands 


LION  HUNT. 


115 


and  knees,  and  the  lion,  in  consequence,  might  easily  have 
pounced  upon  me  without  a moment’s  warning.  At  that 
time,  however,  I had  not  obtained  any  experimental  knowl- 
edge of  the  old  saying,  “ A burnt  child  dreads  the  fire,”  and 
therefore  felt  little  or  no  apprehension. 

Thus  I had  proceeded  for  some  time,  when  suddenly,  and 
within  a few  paces  of  where  I stood,  I heard  a low,  angry 
growl,  which  caused  the  dogs,  with  hair  erect  in  the  manner 
of  hogs’  bristles,  and  with  their  tails  between  their  legs,  to 
slink  behind  my  heels.  Immediately  afterward  a tremendous 
shout  of  “ Ongeama ! Ongeama !”  was  raised  by  the  natives 
on  the  bank  above,  followed  by  a discharge  of  fire-arms. 
Presently,  however,  all  was  still  again,  for  the  lion,  as  I sub- 
sequently learned,  after  showing  himself  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  brake,  had  retreated  into  it. 

Once  more  I attempted  to  dislodge  the  beast ; but,  finding 
the  enemy  awaiting  him  in  the  more  open  country,  he  was 
very  loth  to  leave  his  stronghold.  Again,  however,  I suc- 
ceeded in  driving  him  to  the  edge  of  the  brake,  where,  as  in 
the  first  instance,  he  was  received  with  a volley ; but  a broom- 
stick would  have  been  equally  efficacious  as  a gun  in  the 
hands  of  these  people,  for  out  of  a great  number  of  shot  that 
were  fired,  not  one  seemed  to  have  taken  effect. 

Worn  out  at  length  by  my  exertions,  and  disgusted  be- 
yond measure  at  the  way  in  which  the  natives  bungled  the 
affair,  I left  the  tamarisk  brake,  and,  rejoining  them  on  the 
bank  above,  offered  to  change  places  with  them  ; but  my  pro- 
posal, as  I expected,  was  forthwith  declined. 

As  the  day,  however,  was  now  fast  drawing  to  a close,  I 
determined  to  make  one  other  effort  to  destroy  the  lion,  and, 
should  that  prove  unsuccessful,  to  give  up  the  chase.  Accord- 
ingly, accompanied  by  only  a single  native,  I again  entered 
the  brake  in  question,  which  I examined  for  some  time  with- 
out seeing  any  thing ; but  on  arriving  at  that  part  of  the 
cover  we  had  first  searched,  and  when  in  a spot  compara- 


116 


LION  HUNT. 


lively  free  from  bushes,  up  suddenly  sprung  the  beast  within 
a few  paces  of  me.  It  was  a black-maned  lion,  and  one  of 
the  largest  I ever  remember  to  have  encountered  in  Africa. 
But  his  movements  were  so  rapid,  so  silent  and  smooth  with- 
al, that  it  was  not  until  he  had  partially  entered  the  thick 
cover  (at  which  time  he  might  have  been  about  thirty  paces 
distant)  that  I could  fire.  On  receiving  the  ball,  he  wheeled 
short  about,  and  with  a terrific  roar  bounded  toward  me. 
When  within  a few  paces,  he  couched,,  as  if  about  to  spring, 
having  his  head  imbedded,  so  to  say,  between  his  fore-paws. 

Drawing  a large  hunting-knife  and  slipping  it  over  the 
wrist  of  my  right  hand,  I dropped  on  one  knee,  and,  thus  pre- 
pared, awaited  his  onset.  It  was  an  awful  moment  of  sus- 
pense, and  my  situation  was  critical  in  the  extreme.  Still, 
my  presence  of  mind  never  for  a moment  forsook  me — in- 
deed, I felt  that  nothing  but  the  most  perfect  coolness  and 
absolute  self-command  would  be  of  any  avail. 

I would  now  have  become  the  assailant ; but,  as — owing 
to  the  intervening  bushes,  and  clouds  of  dust  raised  by  the 
lion’s  lashing  his  tail  against  the  ground — I was  unable  to 
see  his  head,  while  to  aim  at  any  other  part  would  have  been 
madness,  I refrained  from  firing.  While  intently  watching 
his  every  motion,  he  suddenly  bounded  toward  me ; but, 
whether  it  was  owing  to  his  not  perceiving  me,  partially  con- 
cealed as  I was  in  the  long  grass,  or  to  my  instinctively 
throwing  my  body  on  one  side,  or  to  his  miscalculating  the 
distance,  in  making  his  last  spring  he  went  clear  over  me, 
and  alighted  on  the  ground  three  or  four  paces  beyond.  In- 
stantly, and  without  rising,  I wheeled  round  on  my  knee  and 
discharged  my  second  barrel ; and  as  his  broadside  was  then 
toward  me,  lodged  a ball  in  his  shoulder,  which  it  completely 
smashed.  On  receiving  my  second  fire,  he  made  another 
and  more  determined  rush  at  me,  but,  owing  to’  his  disabled 
state,  I happily  avoided  him.  It  was,  however,  only  by  a 
bair’s  breadth,  for  he  passed  me  within  arm’s  length.  He 


THE  LUCKY  ESCAPE 


THE  LUCKY  ESCAPE. 


117 


118 


LION  HUNT SHOOTING  ON  SUNDAY. 


afterward  scrambled  into  the  thick  cover  beyond,  where,  as 
night  was  then  approaching,  I did  not  deem  it  prudent  to 
pursue  him. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  next  morning,  however,  we  fol- 
lowed his  “spoor,”  and  soon  came  to  the  spot  where  he  had 
passed  the  night.  The  sand  here  was  one  patch  of  blood, 
and  the  bushes  immediately  about  were  broken,  and  beaten 
down  by  his  weight  as  he  had  staggered  to  and  fro  in  his 
effort  to  get  on  his  legs  again.  Strange  to  say,  however,  we 
here  lost  all  clew  to  the  beast.  A large  troop  of  lions,  that 
had  been  feasting  on  a giraffe  in  the  early  morning,  had 
obliterated  his  tracks,  and  it  was  not  until  some  days  after- 
ward, and  when  the  carcass  was  in  a state  of  decomposition, 
that  his  death  was  ascertained.  He  breathed  his  last  very 
near  to  where  we  were  “at  fault  ;”  but,  in  prosecuting  the 
search,  we  had  unfortunately  taken  exactly  the  opposite  di- 
rection. 

On  our  homeward  path  from  the  pursuit  of  the  lion  we 
fell  in  with  a herd  of  zebras,  and,  while  discharging  my  gun 
at  them,  I accidentally  pulled  both  triggers  at  once.  The 
piece  being  very  light,  and  loaded  with  double  charges,  the 
barrel  flew  out  of  the  stock,  the  cocks  burying  themselves 
deep  in  the  flesh  on  either  side  of  my  nose,  just  under  the 
eyes,  and  left  scars  visible  to  this  day.  Mr.  Rath,  on  seeing 
me  in  this  plight,  was  good  enough  to  say,  by  way  of  consola- 
tion, that  it  was  undoubtedly  a just  punishment  of  Heaven 
in  consequence  of  my  having  carried  a gun  on  a Sunday ! 


A CHRISTMAS  IN  THE  DESERT. 


119 


CHAPTER  X. 

A Christmas  in  the  Desert. — Mr.  Galton’s  Return  from  the  Erongo 
Mountain. — He  passes  numerous  Villages. — Great  Drought ; the 
Natives  have  a Choice  of  two  Evils. — The  Hill-Damaras. — The  Da- 
maras  a Pastoral  People. — The  whole  country  Public  Property. — 
Enormous  herds  of  Cattle. — They  are  as  destructive  as  Locusts  to 
the  Vegetation. — Departure  from  Richterfeldt. — The  Author  kills 
an  Oryx. — The  Oxen  refractory.— -Danger  of  traversing  dry  Water- 
courses on  the  approach  of  the  Rainy  Season. — Message  from  the 
Robber-chief  Jonker. — Emeute  among  the  Servants. — Depart  for 
Schmelen’s  Hope. 

We  had  now  been  rather  more  than  four  months  in  the 
country,  and  Christmas  had  imperceptibly  stolen  upon  us. 
Singularly  enough,  though  I kept  a journal,  I was  not  aware 
of  the  fact  until  one  morning  the  men  came  to  wish  me  a 
“ merry  Christmas.”  A merry  Christmas ! alas ! there  were 
no  merry  children — no  joyous  feast — no  Christmas  trees  or 
other  indication  of  u the  hallowed  and  gracious  time.”  One 
day  was  of  the  same  importance  to  us  as  another.  Moreover, 
our  store  of  grocery,  &c.,  was  too  scant  to  enable  our  cook  to 
produce  us  a plum-pudding,  or  any  of  those  dainty  dishes 
that  even  the  working-man  in  civilized  countries  would  be 
sorry  to  be  without  at  this  season.  Fortunately,  we  had  now 
so  accustomed  ourselves  to  “ bush-diet,”  that  we  did  not  even 
feel  the  want  of  what  others  might  deem  to  be  the  neces- 
saries of  life.  Constant  exposure  to  the  fresh  air  and  per- 
petual exercise  had  so  greatly  increased  our  appetites,  and 
improved  our  digestive  powers,  that,  though  we  might  not, 
like  the  natives,  demolish  a “ yard”  or  so  of  flesh  at  a meal, 
we  could,  nevertheless,  play  our  part  at  meals  as  well  as  any 
London  alderman ; in  fact,  we  could  eat  at  all  times,  and 
scarcely  any  thing  ever  came  amiss.  A draft  of  water 


120 


THE  ERONGO  MOUNTAIN. 


from  the  pure  spring,  and  a piece  of  dried  meat  just  warmed 
in  the  hot  ashes,  was  as  much  relished  by  us  as  a glass  of 
sparkling  pale  ale  and  a slice  of  Yorkshire  ham  would  have 
been  in  Europe.  ' 

In  this  way  we  managed  to  live  on  cheerfully  and  agree- 
ably ; yet  thoughts  of  home,  with  all  its  comforts,  and  friends 
dear  to  memory,  would  now  and  then  flash  across  our  minds. 
Such  reflections,  however,  we  tried  to  avoid,  as  they  only 
served  to  sadden  us.  * 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th  of  December  Galton  return- 
ed from  his  excursion  to  Erongo.  He  had  been  suffering  from 
fever,  and  was  right  glad  to  find  himself  safe  back  af  the  en- 
campment. The  trip  had  been  rather  satisfactory.  The 
chief  result  of  it  was  an  addition  of  about  twenty  oxen,  and 
double  that  number  of  sheep  and  goats,  to  our  live-stock.  We 
were  now  pretty  well  provided  against  all  emergences,  at 
least  for  some  time  to  come.  Galton  had,  moreover,  ascend- 
ed the  mountain,  with  which  he  expressed  himself  much 
struck  and  pleased.  He  fully  corroborated  the  story  of  the 
natives  as  to  its  impregnability,  for  it  was  accessible  only 
in  one  or  two  places,  and  these  could  easily  be  defended 
against  a whole  army  by  a mere  handful  of  men. 

In  round  numbers,  it  was  about  three  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  plain,  and  extended  in  a straight  line  upward 
of  fifteen  miles.  The  vegetation  appeared  very  much  the 
same  as  elsewhere  in  Damara-land,  but  perhaps  more  rank. 
The  wild  fig-tree  grew  rather  plentifully  among  the  crevices 
of  the  rocks,  and  the  travelers  obtained  an  abundance  of  the 
fruit,  which  was  very  palatable. 

Erongo  was  only  inhabited  by  Hill-Damiiras,  under  the 
rule  of  different  petty  chiefs.  From  all  accounts,  they  were 
possessed  of  numerous  herds  of  cattle ; but  my  friend  only 
saw  their  tracks,  as  the  natives  were  unwilling  to  sell  or  to 
exhibit  any  of  the  animals.  They  waged  an  exterminating 
war  with  the  Damaras,  who  lived  in  the  plains  below,  and, 


THE  ERONGO  MOUNTAIN STRANGE  CUSTOM. 


121 


having  seen  the  party  pass  unmolested  through  the  territory 
of  their  mortal  enemies,  they  were  naturally  suspicious  as  to 
their  motive.  They  probably  thought  that  Mr.  Galton  had 
come  with  a view  to  spy  out  and  reconnoitre  their  stronghold, 
and  then  to  return  with  re-enforcements  in  order  to  carry 
off  their  cattle. 

Both  in  going  and  coming  Galton  had  passed  through  sev- 
eral large  villages  of  Damaras,  who  complained  bitterly  of 
the  severe  drought,  which  was  daily  carrying  off  numbers  of 
their  stock.  The  only  place  that  still  afforded  grass  and  wa- 
ter in  tolerable  abundance  was  the  country  bordering  on  the 
River  Swakop ; but  there  they  feared  the  Namaquas.  How- 
ever, they  had  only  two  alternatives  — either  to  risk  being 
plundered  by  these  unscrupulous  people,  or  to  perish,  with 
their  cattle,  from  hunger  and  thirst.  The  first  of  these  was 
thought  the  least  of  the  two,  and  they  were,  therefore,  grad- 
ually approaching  the  dangerous  district.  Indeed,  several 
kraals  had  already  been  established  at  Richterfeldt. 

Being  entirely  a pastoral  people,  the  Damaras  have  no 
notions  of  permanent  habitations.  The  whole  country  is  con- 
sidered public  property.  As  soon  as  the  grass  is  eaten  off 
or  the  water  exhausted  in  one  place,  they  move  away  to  an- 
other. Notwithstanding  this,  and  the  loose  notions  gener- 
ally entertained  by  them  as  to  meum  and  tuum , there  is  an 
understanding  that  he  who  arrives  first  at  any  given  locality 
is  the  master  of  it  as  long  as  he  chooses  to  remain  there,  and 
no  one  will  intrude  upon  him  without  having  previously  ask- 
ed and  obtained  his  permission.  The  same  is  observed  even 
with  regard  to  strangers.  Thus  the  once  powerful  chief 
Kahichene  was  anxious  to  take  up  his  quarters  at  Richter- 
feldt ; but,  acting  on  the  understanding  described,  he  first  dis- 
patched some  of  his  head  men  to  Mr.  Rath,  to  ascertain  from 
him  how  far  he  was  agreeable  to  his  proposal.  The  reverend 
gentleman  replied  that  their  master  could  do  as  he  liked  in 
this  matter,  as  he  himself  was  but  a stranger,  and  conse- 

F 


122 


IMMENSE  HERDS  OF  CATTLE. 


quently  could  not  lay  any  claim  to  the  soil.  However,  the 
messengers  would  not  listen  to  this,  and  told  him  that  their 
chief  would  never  think  of  intruding  without  having  obtained 
special  permission  to  do  so. 

At  this  period  Kahichene  was  supposed  to*  be  the  richest 
and  most  potent  chieftain  throughout  the  country.  His 
wealth,  of  course,  consisted  solely  in  oxen  and  sheep.  To 
give  some  idea  of  the  number  he  then  possessed,  I will  state 
that,  early  on  the  day  after  the  interview  just  mentioned  had 
taken  place,  the  first  droves  began  to  make  their  appearance, 
and  continued  to  arrive,  without  intermission,  till  late  in  the 
evening  of  the  second  day.  Moreover,  they  did  not  come  in 
files  of  one  or  two,  but  the  whole  bed  and  banks  of  the  Swa- 
kop  were  actually  covered  with  one  living  mass  of  oxen  ; and, 
after  all,  this  was  but  a small  portion  of  what  he  really  own- 
ed. In  the  space  of  three  short  weeks  not  a blade  of  grass 
or  green  thing  was  to  be  met  with  for  many  miles  on  either 
side  of  Richterfeldt.  Indeed,  a person  unacquainted  with 
the  real  cause  of  this  desolation  would  have  been  likely  to 
attribute  it  to  the  devastating  influence  of  that  scourge  of  Af- 
rica, the  locust. 

Much  valuable  time  had  hitherto  been  lost  in  obtaining 
information  of  the  country  and  the  inhabitants,  in  buying 
and  breaking-in  of  cattle,  and  so  forth,  and  this  without  our 
having  accomplished  any  considerable  distance.  We  were 
now  in  hopes,  however,  of  being  able  to  prosecute  our  journey 
in  earnest,  and  no  time  was  lost  in  making  the  final  arrange- 
ments for  our  departure.  Our  intended  route  lay  to  the  north 
of  Richterfeldt ; but  as  the  country  was  said  to  be  very  hilly 
and  densely  wooded,  we  deemed  it  advisable  to  proceed  via 
Barmen.  As  hardly  mules  enough  were  left  to  draw  the  cart, 
it  was  thought  best  to  leave  it  behind  in  charge  of  Mr.  Rath, 
who  kindly  promised  to  look  after  it  in  our  absence.  The 
two  wagons  were  thought  sufficiently  large  to  contain  our- 
selves and  baggage. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  RIC HT ERFELDT. 


123 


The  oxen,  which  from  the  beginning  had  been  only  par- 
tially broken-in,  were  now,  from  their  long  rest,  wild,  refrac- 
tory, and  unmanageable  in  the  extreme.  Before  we  could 
effectually  secure  the  two  spans  (teams)  necessary  for  the 
wagons,  several  hours  had  elapsed,  and  it  was  not  till  late 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  30th  of  December,  1850,  that  we 
were  able  to  bid  a final  farewell  to  Richterfeldt  and  its  oblig- 
ing inhabitants. 

We  made  but  little  progress  the  first  day ; and  when  we 
bivouacked  for  the  night,  which  was  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Swakop,  we  were  only  three  hours’  journey  from  the  mis- 
sionary station.  Indeed,  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  an  ear- 
ly halt  in  consequence  of  the  mules  and  some  of  the  oxen 
having  taken  themselves  off. 

During  the  night  we  were  serenaded  by  whole  troops  of 
lions  and  hyaenas.  One  of  the  latter  had  the  boldness  to 
come  within  the  encampment,  and  only  retreated  after  an  ob- 
stinate combat  with  the  dogs.  In  the  bed  of  the  river,  more- 
over, and  where  our  cattle  had  been  drinking  during  the  night, 
we  discovered  a spot  where  a lion  had  made  a dash  at  a ze- 
bra, but  his  prey  had  evidently  disappointed  him. 

Next  morning,  without  waiting  for  the  return  of  the  men 
who  had  been  sent  in  search  of  the  missing  animals,  I shoul- 
dered my  gun  and  went  in  advance,  in  the  hope  of  procuring 
a few  specimens  of  natural  history,  as  also  of  meeting  with 
game  of  some  kind  or  other ; nor  was  I disappointed.  At  a 
bend  of  the  river  I suddenly  encountered  a fine  herd  of  oryxes 
or  gemsboks,  the  supposed  South  African  unicorn.  As  they 
dashed  across  my  path  at  double-quick  time,  and  at  least 
one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  advance,  I fired  at  the  leading 
animal  (which  proved  a full-grown  female),  and  had  the 
satisfaction  to  see  it  drop  to  the  shot.  On  going  up  to  my 
prize,  I found  that  the  ball — a conical  one — had  passed  clean 
through  both  shoulders,  and  this  was,  perhaps,  somewhat  re- 
markable, as  the  gun-barrel  was  smooth  in  the  bore.  Hav- 


124 


THE  OXEN  INTRACTABLE. 


ing  carefully  removed  the  skin,  with  the  head  attached  to  it, 
I set  to  wrork  to  quarter  the  flesh,  which  was  rather  a labo- 
rious task. 

Though  it  was  winter  (January),  the  day  was  oppressive- 
ly hot,  and  the  leafless  thorn-trees  afforded  no  shelter  against 
the  burning  rays  of  the  sun.  I suffered  excessively  from 
thirst,  and,  unfortunately,  the  wagons  did  not  overtake  me 
till  after  sunset.  The  Damaras  yelled  with  delight  at  the 
sight  of  the  oryx.  They  had  a glorious  gorge  that  night, 
and  the  return  of  daylight  found  them  still  at  their  feast ! 

With  the  exception  of  a heavy  thunder-storm,  accompanied 
by  a deluge  of  rain,  our  journey  to  Barmen  was  marked  by 
no  farther  incident  worth  recording.  We  reached  it  in  safe- 
ty on  the  9th  of  January,  1851,  after  seven  days’  travel,  half 
of  which  would  have  been  sufficient  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances ; but  we  had  experienced  very  considerable  difficul- 
ties in  getting  our  wagons  forward.  The  oxen  pulled  well 
enough  so  long  as  the  country  was  level,  but  the  moment 
they  had  to  face  a hill  they  came  to  a stand,  and  no  amount 
of  flogging  would  induce  them  to  move.  When  the  whip 
was  applied,  it  only  produced  a furious  bellowing,  kicking, 
tossing  of  heads,  switching  of  tails,  and  so  forth.  On  such 
occasions  they  would  not  unfrequently  twist  themselves  en- 
tirely round  in  the  yoke,  and  it  often  took  a whole  hour  to 
put  them  to  rights  again. 

On  account  of  the  thick  wood  and  general  ruggedness  of 
the  country,  the  dry  beds  of  periodical  water-courses  afford 
the  only  really  practicable  road.  On  the  approach  of  the 
rainy  season,  however,  these  are  not  always  safe ; for,  when 
in  imagined  security,  the  traveler  may  perhaps  all  at  once 
find  himself  in  the  midst  of  a foaming  torrent.  If  the  oxen 
are  not  well  trained,  most  serious  results  are  to  be  dreaded. 
There  are  many  instances  of  wagons  with  their  teams  hav- 
ing been  thus  surprised  and  swept  away.  Our  fears  on  this 
head,  therefore,  were  not  quieted  until  we  were  in  full  view 


REFRACTORY  SERVANTS. 


125 


of  the  missionary-house  at  Barmen.  Indeed,  it  was  high 
time,  for  on  the  third  day  of  our  arrival  there  the  Swakop 
sent  down  its  mighty  flood. 

The  first  showers  of  rain,  it  should  be  remarked,  usually 
fall  as  early  as  September  and  October,  but  the  rainy  season 
does  not  fairly  set  in  until  December  and  January. 

A letter  from  Jonker  Afrikaner  was  awaiting  our  arrival, 
expressing  a wish  that  Mr.  Galton,  in  person,  would  pay  him 
an  early  visit,  that  they  might  confer  together  on  the  affairs 
of  the  country.  My  friend  was  at  first  a little  undecided 
how  to  act,  as  it  might  only  have  been  a ruse  of  the  crafty 
chief  to  entrap  him.  However,  as,  under  every  circumstance, 
it  would  be  better  to  know  his  real  intentions  than  to  be  kept 
in  constant  uncertainty  and  suspense,  he  determined,  as  soon 
as  circumstances  permitted,  to  comply  with  Jonker’s  desire. 

When  we  bade  farewell  to  Bichterfeldt,  it  was  in  the  firm 
conviction  that  the  principal  obstacles  to  the  expedition  had 
been  removed ; but  we  were  sadly  mistaken.  Under  differ- 
ent pretexts,  the  natives  whom  we  had  engaged  suddenly 
refused  to  proceed  any  further.  Even  the  man  who  had 
first  drawn  our  attention  to  the  Lake  Omanbonde,  and  who 
seemed  to  be  the  only  one  acquainted  with  it,  threatened  to 
leave  us..  Our  Cape  servants  also  became  somewhat  sulky 
and  discontented.  Indeed,  two  of  them,  Gabriel  and  John 
Waggoner,  whom  the  reader  will  remember  as  having  al- 
ready given  us  some  trouble,  demanded  and  obtained  their 
dismissal.  Thus  circumstanced,  it  was  out  of  the  question 
to  think  of  immediately  carrying  our  plan  into  execution. 
We  felt  excessively  annoyed,  and  our  stock  of  patience  was 
well-nigh  exhausted.  Still,  we  did  not  give  up  all  hope  of 
ultimate  success. 

Barmen,  however,  was  ill  suited  as  an  encampment ; for, 
though  agreeable  enough  as  a residence  for  ourselves,  grass 
for  the  cattle  was  scarce  and  distant.  Mr.  Hahn  advised 
us  to  push  on  to  Schmelen’s  Hope,  situated  at  about  fifteen 


126 


schmelen’s  hope. 


miles  to  the  northward,  where,  inasmuch  as  there  had  not 
been  any  natives  dwelling  of  late,  we  should  find  abundance 
of  pasturage.  Accordingly,  we  acted  on  his  suggestion,  and 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  13th  of  January  were  established  at 
that  place. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Schmelen’s  Hope. — Scenery. — Missionary  Station. — Raid  of  the  Na- 
maquas. — Ingratitude  of  the  Natives. — Jonker’s  Feud  with  Kahi- 
chene ; his  Barbarities  ; his  Treachery. — Mr.  Galton  departs  for 
Eikams. — Author’s  successful  sporting  Excursions. — He  captures  a 
young  Steinbok  and  a Koodoo. — They  are  easily  domesticated. — 
Hygenas  very  troublesome ; several  destroyed  by  Spring-guns. — The 
latter  described. — Visit  from  a Leopard  ; it  wounds  a Dog ; Chase 
and  Death  of  the  Leopard.— The  Caracal. 

Schmelen’s  Hope  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Little  Swakop,  and  just  at  the  confluence  of  one 
of  its  tributaries,  the  banks  of  which  were  lined  with  ma- 
jestic trees  of  the  mimosa  and  the  acacia  family.  Some  of 
these  were  now  in  full  bloom,  and  presented  an  interesting 
and  beautiful  appearance.  Heavy  showers  of  rain,  more- 
over, having  lately  fallen,  the  grateful  earth  acknowledged 
the  tribute  by  rapidly  sending  forth  her  boundless  store  of 
aromatic  herbs  and  plants— 

“ Herbs  for  man’s  use  of  various  power, 

That  either  food  or  physic  yield.” 

The  whole  aspect  of  the  country  changed  as  if  by  magic, 
and  I gazed  on  the  altered  features  of  the  landscape  in 
rapture  and  amazement.  It  strongly  reminded  me  of  the 
Psalmist’s  words — 

“ His  rains  from  heaven  parch’d  hills  recruit, 

That  soon  transmit  the  liquid  store, 

Till  earth  is  burden’d  with  her  fruit, 

And  Nature’s  lap  can  hold  no  more.” 


MISSIONARY  STATION NAMAQUAS. 


127 


Schmelen’s  Hope  ( Schmelen’s  Vervachtung)  is  so  called, 
partly  on  account  of  its  advanced  position,  and  partly  in 
honor  of  its  founder,  the  Eev.  Mr.  Schmelen,  who,  by  all  ac- 
counts, was  one  of  the  most  gifted  and  most  enterprising  of 
missionaries  that  ever  set  foot  on  African  soil.  For  a time 
this  station  was  occupied  by  Mr.  Hahn,  and  recently  by  his 
colleague,  Mr.  Kolbe.  About  the  time  that  we  landed  at 
Walfisch  Bay,  however,  the  latter  had  found  it  necessary  to 
beat  a precipitate  retreat,  in  consequence  of  an  attack  upon 
the  station  by  a party  of  Namaquas. 

Shortly  after  Mr.  Kolbe’ s settlement  at  Schmelen’s  Hope 
he  was  joined  by  Kahichene — of  whom  mention  has  been 
made  in  the  foregoing  pages — and  a considerable  number  of 
his  tribe.  They  continued  to  live  here  in  the  most  unsus- 
pecting security.  The  missionary  cause  made  considerable 
progress,  and  hopes  were  really  entertained  that  Damara- 
land  might  eventually  be  civilized.  The  golden  visions  of  a 
happy  future  for  this  unfortunate  country  were,  however, 
speedily  dispersed  by  the  sudden  appearance  of  a party  of 
Namaquas,  under  the  immediate  command  of  Jonker  Afri- 
kander. By  this  band  a great  number  of  natives  were  mas- 
sacred ; a considerable  booty  of  cattle  was  carried  off ; and 
Kahichene  himself  had  a hairbreadth  escape.  Just  as  he 
was  making  good  his  retreat,  he  was  observed  and  followed 
by  a mounted  Namaqua.  On  finding  himself  hard  pressed, 
and  that  it  was  impossible  to  avoid  his  pursuer,  the  chief 
turned  quickly  round,  and  the  next  instant,  with  a poisoned 
arrow,  laid  the  man  dead  at  his  feet. 

Many  acts  of  great  cruelty  were  perpetrated  on  this  occa- 
sion, of  which  the  following  may  be  cited.  Several  Damaras 
had  taken  refuge  on  the  summit  of  an  isolated  rock  eighty 
or  ninety  feet  in  height.  As  soon  as  the  Namaquas  perceived 
them,  they  coolly  seated  themselves  round  the  base,  and, 
whenever  any  of  the  poor  fellows  peeped  forth  from  their 
hiding-places,  they  were  shot  like  so  many  crows.  Mr.  Gal- 


*128 


INGRATITUDE  OF  THE  NATIVES. 


ton  and  myself  visited  the  spot  soon  after  our  arrival  at 
Schmelen’s  Hope,  and  saw  the  bleached  bones  of  the  victims 
scattered  about,  but  we  were  unable  to  ascertain  the  exact 
number  of  people  killed,  as  the  jackals  and  the  hyaenas  had 
carried  away  and  demolished  many  parts  of  the  skeletons. 

Though  no  direct  attack  was  made  on  the  missionary  sta- 
tion on  this  occasion,  Miv  Kolbe  nevertheless  considered  it 
would  be  imprudent  to  remain  there  any  longer.  According- 
ly, packing  the  most  valuable  of  his  goods  on  his  wagon,  he 
hurriedly  departed  for  Barmen. 

A few  days  afterward,  some  fugitive  Damaras  returned 
to  the  place  of  their  misfortunes,  and,  on  finding  the  house 
abandoned,  they  were  base  enough  to  despoil  it  of  its  con- 
tents. Moreover,  what  they  could  not  themselves  use  they 
wantonly  destroyed  or  scattered  about  on  the  ground.  On 
our  arrival  at  Schmelen’s  Hope,  therefore,  we  found  nothing 
remaining  but  the  mere  shell  of  the  house.  This,  though 
simply  constructed  of  clay,  and  thatched  with  reeds,  was 
rather  neatly  executed,  and  had  apparently,  at  one  time, 
been  the  exterior  of  a comfortable  dwelling. 

Water  was  obtained  from  a large  pool  or  vley,  which, 
however,  in  very  arid  years,  might  dry  away.  About  five 
miles  up  the  Swakop  was,  moreover,  a rather  copious  fount- 
ain, called  Okandu,  where  cattle  might  drink. 

Generally  speaking,  if  they  have  a chance  of  obtaining  cat- 
tle, the  Namaquas  are  not  at  all  nice  as  to  whether  they  rob 
friend  or  foe.  On  this  particular  occasion,  however,  they 
were  supposed  to  have  had  an  old  grudge  against  Kahichene 
and  his  tribe.  Once,  as  Jonker  and  a large  party  of  his  fol- 
lowers were  on  the  way  to  Walfisch  Bay,  their  provisions 
failed  them,  and  hearing  that  Kahichene,  with  whom  they 
were  then  on  friendly  terms,  was  in  the  neighborhood,  they 
bent  their  steps  toward  his  kraal.  Kahichene  received  them 
civilly,  but  refused  to  supply  their  wants.  He,  however,  ad- 
vised Jonker  to  help  himself  to  cattle  from  another  Damara 


jonker’ s treachery. 


129 


chief,  who,  he  said  (though  without  any  kind  of  foundation), 
was  their  mutual  enemy.  Jonker  did  not  wait  to  be  told 
twice,  but  immediately  attacked  this  man’s  kraal.  In  the 
hght  that  ensued,  some  of  Kahichane’s  people  were  accident- 
ally killed ; but  he,  believing  the  slaughter  had  been  inten- 
tionally perpetrated,  made  a furious  onset  on  Jonker  that  very 
night.  As  usually  happens,  however,  and  perhaps  in  some 
degree  owing  to  the  Damaras  having  fewer  guns  than  the 
Namaquas,  he  was  beaten  off  with  very  severe  loss.  Though 
the  affair  was  afterward  made  up  between  the  chiefs,  Jonker, 
in  his  heart,  never  forgave  Kahichene’s  attack  upon  him, 
which  he  looked  upon  as  a breach  of  faith. 

In  all  the  attacks  of  the  Namaquas  the  most  atrocious  bar- 
barities were  committed.  The  men  were  unmercifully  shot 
down ; the  hands  and  the  feet  of  the  women  lopped  off ; the 
bowels  of  the  children  ripped  up,  &c. ; and  ail  this  to  gratify 
a savage  thirst  for  blood.  Many  poor  creatures  have  I my- 
self seen  dragging  out  a miserable  existence  that  had  thus 
been  deprived  of  limbs  or  otherwise  cruelly  mutilated. 

Jonker  himself  would  seem  to  have  been  callous  to  all  the 
better  feelings  of  our  nature.  News  having  been  brought  to 
him  on  one  occasion  of  the  loss  of  a merchant  vessel  (some- 
where about  Cape  Cross),  he  and  his  men  started  in  search 
of  the  wreck.  Before  reaching  it,  some  of  his  cattle  were 
stolen,  and  as  the  theft  was  conjectured  to  have  been  com- 
mitted by  the  Damaras,  Jonker  sent  for  the  chief  of  the  sus- 
pected tribe,  received  him  in  a friendly  way,  and  invited  him 
to  remain  at  his  camp  for  the  night,  in  the  course  of  which, 
however,  he  caused  him  to  be  brutally  murdered.  Before  ex- 
piring, the  poor  fellow  requested  permission  to  see  his  wife 
and  children,  but  Jonker  was  inhuman  enough  to  refuse  his 
request.  On  receiving  a denial,  the  unfortunate  man  turned 
toward  his  slayer,  and,  wiping  the  blood  from  his  face,  ex- 
claimed, fc£  Since  you  have  dealt  thus  treacherously  by  me, 
and  even  refused  to  allow  me  to  see  my  family,  you  shall 

F 2 


130 


SPORTING  EXCURSIONS. 


never  prosper ; and  my  cattle,  which  I well  know  you  covet, 
shall  be  a curse  to  you !” 

It  has  been  asserted  that  J onker  once  contemplated  the  ex- 
termination of  all  grown  men  among  the  Damaras,  and  of  di- 
viding the  women,  the  children,  and  the  cattle  among  his  own  • 
people,  hoping  thereby  to  make  his  tribe  the  most  powerful 
in  that  part  of  Africa. 

On  the  16th  of  January  Mr.  Galton  started  for  Eikhams, 
the  residence  of  Jonker  Afrikaner,  on  his  mission  of  peace. 
He  was  accompanied  by  Hans,  John  Mortar,  and  two  or  three 
native  servants^ 

Two  days  later,  the  mules,  though  closely  watched,  man- 
aged to  elude  our  vigilance  and  make  good  their  escape. 
Fortunately,  they  were  intercepted  at  Barmen,  whence  they 
were  kindly  sent  back  by  Mr.  Hahn.  Not  long  afterward 
they  again  went  off,  but,  passing  Barmen  this  time  in  the 
night,  no  one  saw  them,  and,  consequently,  they  were  allow- 
ed to  pursue  their  course  uninterruptedly,  and  were  never  re- 
taken. Strange  to  relate,  these  animals  (with  the  exception 
of  two  that  were  destroyed  by  lions  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Richterfeldt)  ultimately  found  their  way  back  to  Schepp- 
mansdorf,  having  traveled  above  200  miles  by  themselves ! 

During  Mr.  Galton’ s absence  I managed  to  beguile  the 
time  agreeably  and  usefully.  Indeed,  I spent  some  of  my 
happiest  days  in  this  quiet,  secluded,  and  charming  spot,  in 
the  full  enjoyment  of  unrestrained  liberty.  The  mornings 
were  usually  devoted  to  excursions  in  the  neighborhood  in 
search  of  game.  Of  quadrupeds,  we  had  the  giraffe,  the 
gnoo,  the  gemsbok,  the  springbok,  the  koodoo,  the  pallah,  the 
steinbok,  &c.,  so  that  I had  no  difficulty  in  keeping  the  lard- 
er pretty  well  supplied.  I also  made  many  an  interesting 
and  valuable  addition  to  my  collection  of  specimens  of  nat- 
ural history. 

One  day  a young  steinbok  was  captured,  as  also  a koo- 
doo, and  I was  fortunate  enough  to  rear  both. 


DEATH  OF  TWO  FAVORITES HYAENAS.  131 

With  the  steinbok  I had  very  little  trouble,  a she-goat, 
whom  I deprived  of  its  kid,  having  taken  to  it  kindly,  and 
become  to  it  a second  mother.  The  koodoo  did  not  give  me 
much  more  trouble ; for,  after  a few  days,  during  which  milk 
was  given  to  it  with  a spoon,  it  would  of  itself  suck  from 
what  mothers  call  a “ feeding-bottle,”*  and  butt  and  pull 
away  at  it  as  if  it  was  drawing  nourishment  from  the  teats 
of  its  dam. 

Both  the  steinbok  and  the  koodoo  were  very  pretty  crea- 
tures, and  in  a short  time  became  very  tame  and  affectionate. 
Their  lively  and  graceful  caperings,  and  playful  frolics,  were 
to  us  all  a source  of  much  amusement.  Their  end,  however, 
was  somewhat  tragical : the  steinbok  died  from  exhaustion 
after  a severe  day’s  march,  and  the  koodoo,  which  would 
have  been  a valuable  addition  to  the  beautiful  menagerie  in 
Begent’s  Park,  I was  obliged  to  kill,  because  we  could  not 
obtain  a sufficiency  of  proper  food  for  its  maintenance,  and 
had  no  room  in  the  wagon  for  its  conveyance.  It  grieved  me 
much  to  destroy  the  poor  creature,  but  there  was  no  alterna- 
tive. 

Hyaenas,  called  wolves  by  the  colonists,  were  very  nu- 
merous at  Schmelen’s  Hope,  and  exceedingly  audacious  and 
troublesome.  More  than  once,  during  dark  and  drizzling 
nights,  they  made  their  way  into  the  sheep-kraal,  where  they 
committed  sad  havoc.  We  had  several  chases  after  them, 
but  they  managed  invariably  to  elude  us. 

To  get  rid  of  these  troublesome  guests,  we  placed  some 
spring-guns  in  their  path,  and  by  means  of  this  contrivance 
compassed  the  death  of  several. 

The  manner  in  which  the  spring-gun  is  set  for  the  hyasna 
is  as  follows : 

Two  young  trees  are  selected  and  divested  of  their  lower 
branches,  or,  in  lieu  of  such,  a couple  of  stout  posts,  firmly 

* A bottle  of  any  kind,  filled  with  milk,  and  with  a qnill  (enveloped 
in  linen)  inserted  in  the  cork. 


132 


SPRING  GUN  FOR  THE  HY/ENA. 


SHOOTING  TRAP. 


VISIT  FROM  A LEOPARD. 


133 


driven  into  the  ground,  will  answer  the  purpose  equally  well. 
To  these  trees  or  posts,  as  the  case  may  be,  the  gun  is  firmly 
lashed  in  a horizontal  position,  and  with  the  muzzle  pointing 
slightly  upward.  A piece  of  wood  about  six  inches  in  length 
— the  lever,  in  short — is  tied  to  the  side  of  the  gun-stock  in 
such  a manner  as  to  move  slightly  forward  and  backward. 
A short  piece  of  string  connects  the  trigger  with  the  lower 
part  of  the  lever.  To  the  upper  extremity  of  the  latter  is 
attached  a longer  piece  of  cord,  to  the  outer  end  of  which, 
after  it  has  been  passed  through  one  of  the  empty  ramrod 
tubes,  is  tied  a lump  of  flesh,  which  is  pushed  over  the  muz- 
zle of  the  gun. 

These  matters  being  arranged,  a sort  of  fence,  consisting 
of  thorny  bushes,  is  made  around  the  spot,  only  one  small, 
narrow  opening  being  left,  and  that  right  in  front  of  the 
muzzle  of  the  gun.  A “ drag,”  consisting  of  tainted  flesh  or 
other  offal,  is  then  trailed  from  different  points  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  directly  up  to  the  “ toils.” 

When  the  hyaena  seizes  the  bait — which  she  can  only  do 
by  gaping  across  the  muzzle  of  the  weapon- — and  pulls  at  it, 
the  gun  at  once  explodes,  and  the  chances  are  a hundred  to 
one  that  the  brains  of  the  animal  are  scattered  far  and  wide. 

During  our  stay  at  Schmelen’s  Hope  we  not  unfrequently 
received  visits  from  leopards,  by  the  Dutch  erroneously  call- 
ed “ tigers,”  under  which  denomination  the  panther  is  also 
included;  but  I do  not  believe  that  tigers,  at  least  of  the 
species  common  to  the  East  Indies,  exist  on  the  African 
continent.  The  Damaras,  however,  assert  that  the  real  tiger 
is  found  in  the  country,  and  they  once  pointed  out  to  Mr. 
Rath  the  tracks  of  an  animal  which  he  declared  to  me  were 
very  different  from  any  he  had  ever  before  seen  in  Africa, 
and  which  the  natives  assured  him  were  those  of  the  animal 
in  question. 

One  night  I was  suddenly  awoke  by  a furious  barking  of 
our  dogs,  accompanied  by  cries  of  distress.  Suspecting  that 


134 


DEATH  OF  THE  BEAST. 


some  beast  of  prey  had  seized  upon  one  of  them,  I leaped,  un- 
dressed, out  of  my  bed,  and,  gun  in  hand,  hurried  to  the  spot 
whence  the  cries  proceeded.  The  night  was  pitchy  dark, 
however,  and  I could  distinguish  nothing ; yet,  in  the  hope 
of  frightening  the  intruder  away,  ,1  shouted  at  the  top  of  my 
voice.  In  a few  moments  a torch  was  lighted,  and  we  then 
discerned  the  tracks  of  a leopard,  and  also  large  patches  of 
blood.  On  counting  the  dogs,  I found  that  “ Summer,”  the 
best  and  fleetest  of  our  kennel,  was  missing.  As  it  was  in 
vain  that  I called  and  searched  for  him,  I concluded  that  the 
tiger  had  carried  him  away,  and  as  nothing  further  could 
be  done  that  night,  I again  retired  to  rest ; but  the  fate  of 
the  poor  animal  continued  to  haunt  me,  and  drove  sleep  away. 
I had  seated  myself  on  the  front  chest  of  the  wagon,  when 
suddenly  the  melancholy  cries  were  repeated,  and,  on  reach- 
ing the  spot,  I found  “ Summer”  stretched  at  full  length 
in  the  middle  of  a bush.  Though  the  poor  creature  had  sev- 
eral deep  wounds  about  his  throat  and  chest,  he  at  once  rec- 
ognized me,  and,  wagging  his  tail,  looked  wistfully  in  my 
face.  The  sight  sickened  me  as  I carried  him  into  the  house, 
where,  in  time,  however,  he  recovered. 

The  very  next  day  “ Summer”  was  revenged  in  a very  un- 
expected manner.  Some  of  the  servants  had  gone  into  the 
bed  of  the  river  to  chase  away  a jackal,  when  they  suddenly 
encountered  a leopard  in  the  act  of  springing  at  our  goats, 
which  were  grazing,  unconscious  of  danger,  on  the  river’s 
bank.  On  finding  himself  discovered,  he  immediately  took 
refuge  in  a tree,  where  he  was  at  once  attacked  by  the  men. 
It  was,  however,  not  until  he  had  received  upward  of  sixteen 
wounds — some  of  which  were  inflicted  by  poisoned  arrows — 
that  life  became  extinct.  I arrived  at  the  scene  of  conflict 
only  to  see  him  die. 

During  the  whole  affair  the  men  had  stationed  themselves 
at  the  foot  of  the  tree,  to  the  branches  of  which  the  leopard 
was  pertinaciously  clinging;  and,  having  expended  all  their 


THE  CARACAL— WILD-FOWL  ABUNDANT. 


135 


ammunition,  one  of  them  proposed* — and  the  suggestion  was 
taken  into  serious  consideration — that  they  should  pull  him 
down  by  the  tail ! 

The  poorer  of  the  Damaras,  when  hard  pressed  for  food, 
eat  the  flesh  of  the  leopard,  the  hyaena,  and  many  other  beasts 
of  prey. 

The  caracal  {fells  caracal ),  or  the  wild-cat,  as  it  is  gener- 
ally called  in  these  parts,  was  not  uncommon  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Schmelen’s  Hope.  The  fur  of  this  animal  is 
warm  and  handsome,  and  is  much  esteemed  by  the  natives, 
who  convert  the  skins  into  carosses,  &c. 

According  to  Professor  Thunberg,  who  gives  it  on  the 
authority  of  the  Dutch  boers,  the  skin  of  the  caracal  is  also 
“ very  efficacious  as  a discutient  when  applied  to  parts  af- 
fected with  cold  or  rheumatism.” 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Wild-fowl  abundant. — The  Great  Bustard. — The  Termites. — Wild 
Bees. — Mushrooms. — The  Chief  Zwartbooi.— Return  of  Mr.  Galton. 
— He  makes  a Treaty  with  Jonker. — He  visits  Rehoboth. — Misdo- 
ings of  John  Waggoner  and  Gabriel. — Change  of  Servants. — Swarm 
of  Caterpillars. — A reconnoitring  Expedition.— Thunder-storm. — 
The  Omatako  Mountains. — Zebra-flesh  a God-send. — Tropical  Phe- 
nomenon.—The  Damaras  not  remarkable  for  Veracity.— Encamp 
in  an  Ant-hill.— Return  to  Schmelen’s  Hope. — Preparations  for  vis- 
iting Omanbonle. 

We  never  fared  better  than  at  Schmelen’s  Hope.  Besides 
the  larger  game  mentioned,  our  table  was  plentifully  sup- 
plied with  geese,  ducks,  Guinea-fowls,  francolins,  grouse,  and 
so  forth.  The  large  bustard  (oils  Jcori , Burcln),  the  South 
African  paauw , was,  moreover,  very  abundant,  but  so  shy 
that  to  kill  it,  even  with  the  rifle,  was  considered  a dexter- 
ous exploit.  One  that  I shot  weighed  no  less  than  twenty- 
eight  pounds.  I have  since  repeatedly  killed  African  bust- 


136 


THE  TERMITES. 


ards  of  this  species,  but  I never  saw  a second  bird  that  at- 
tained more  than  two  thirds  of  the  weight  just  specified; 
usually  they  do  not  exceed  fourteen  or  fifteen  pounds.  The 
flesh  is  very  tender  and  palatable ; indeed,  to  my  notion,  it 
is  the  best-flavored  of  all  the  game-birds  found  throughout 
this  portion  of  South  Africa. 

It  being  now  the  breeding  season,  the  numerous  flocks  of 
Guinea-fowls  in  the  neighborhood  afforded  us  a constant  sup- 
ply of  fresh  eggs,  which,  as  has  been  said  elsewhere,  are  ex- 
cellent. 

Schmelen’s  Hope  swarmed  with  termites,  or  white  ants.* 
My  ideas  of  ant-hills  were  here,  for  the  first  time,  realized ; 
for  some  of  the  abodes  of  this  interesting  though  destructive 
insect  measured  as  much  as  one  hundred  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence at  the  base,  and  rose  to  about  twenty  in  height ! Ter- 
mites are  seldom  seen  in  the  daytime ; but  it  is  not  an  unu- 
sual thing,  after  having  passed  a night  on  the  ground,  to  find 
skins,  rugs,  &c.,  perforated  by  them  in  a hundred  different 
places. 

In  constructing  their  nests,  the  termites  do  not  add  to  them 
externally,  as  with  the  species  of  ant  common  to  England, 
but  enlarge  them  from  within  by  thrusting  out,  so  to  say, 
the  wall.  Their  labors  are  commonly  carried  on  in  the 
dark,  and  at  early  morn  each  night’s  addition  to  the  build- 
ing may  be  discovered  by  its  moisture.  “ They  unite,”  says 
the  “ English  Cyclopaedia,”  “ in  societies  composed  each  of 
an  immense  number  of  individuals,  living  in  the  ground  and 
in  trees,  and  often  attacking  the  wood-work  of  houses,  in 
which  they  form  innumerable  galleries,  all  of  which  lead  to  a 
central  point.  In  forming  these  galleries  they  avoid  piercing 
the  surface  of  the  wood-work,  and  hence  it  appears  sound, 
when  the  slightest  touch  is  sometimes  sufficient  to  cause  it  to 

* For  a detailed  account  of  this  curious  and  interesting  insect,  see 
Mr.  Westwood  ( British  Cyclopaedia)]  Mr.  Savage  ( Annals  of  Natural 
History , vol.  v.,  p.  02).  &c. 


WILD  BEES WILLIAM  ZWARTBOOI.  137 

fall  to  pieces.”  This  is  a clear,  and,  I have  no  doubt,  a cor- 
rect account.  I myself  have  often  been  astonished  to  find 
huge  trees,  -apparently  sound,  crumble  to  pieces  on  being 
touched  by  the  hand. 

Wild  bees  very  frequently  make  their  nests  in  the  gigantic 
dwellings  of  the  termites.  In  some  years  bees  are  very  nu- 
merous. The  disposition  of  these  insects  would  appear  to  be 
unusually  quiet  and  forbearing.  Indeed,  I never  knew  a man 
to  be  stung  by  them  when  robbing  their  nests.  Commonly, 
these  are  smoked  in  the  first  instance,  but  just  as  often  (as  I 
myself  have  many  times  witnessed)  they  are  fearlessly  ap- 
proached, and  plundered  by  the  naked  savage  without  this 
precaution. 

It  is  another  interesting  fact  in  connection  with  the  dwell- 
ings of  the  termites  that,  during  the  rainy  season,  mushrooms 
grow  in  great  abundance  on  their  sides.  In  size  and  flavor 
these  mushrooms  are  far  superior  to  any  found  in  Europe. 
Care,  however,  must  be  taken  in  selecting  them,  for  other 
fungi  of  a poisonous  nature  are  almost  identical  in  appear- 
ance. Two  of  the  children  of  one  of  our  Damaras  were 
very  nearly  killed  by  eating  some  of  these  instead  of  mush- 
rooms. 

On  the  6th  of  February  I received  a visit  from  a great 
Nam  aqua  chieftain  named  William  Zwartbooi,  and  found 
him  a very  agreeable  old  personage.  He  had  met  Mr.  Gal- 
ton  not  far  from  Eikhams,  who  had  sent  him  to  Schmelen’s 
Hope  to  wait  his  return. 

At  one  time  this, chief  had  robbed  and  massacred  the  Da- 
maras in  precisely  a similar  way  as  Jonker  Afrikaner ; but, 
thanks  to  the  exertions  of  the  missionaries,  he  had  been  grad- 
ually weaned  from  his  evil  practices,  and  was  now  living  on 
excellent  terms  with  his  neighbors. 

Jonker  and  Zwartbooi  associated  occasionally,  but  they 
were  by  no  means  well  disposed  toward  each  other.  On  one 
occasion,  when  the  latter  had  expressed  displeasure  at  his 


138 


THE  CHIEF  ZWARTBOOI. 


friend’s  inhuman  proceedings  against  the  Damaras,  Jonker 
told  him  that  if  he  (Zwartbooi)  meddled  with  his  affairs  he 
would  pay  him  such  a visit  as  would  put  a stop  to  his  devo- 
tions and  make  him  cry  for  quarter. 

Within  Zwartbooi’s  territory  was  a mountain  called  Tans, 
where  horses  might  pasture  throughout  the  year  without  be- 
ing exposed  to  the  “paarde  ziekte,”  the  cruel  distemper  to 
which  these  animals  are  subject.  Almost  all  the  northern 
Namaquas,  Jonker  among  the  rest,  are  in  the  habit  of  send- 
ing their  horses  he^e  during  the  sickly  season. 

On  one  occasion,  when  Jonker  was  about  to  make  a 
“raid”  on  the  Damaras,  he  sent  an  express  to  Zwartbooi 
for  his  horses;  but  this  chief,  having  been  apprised  of  the 
cause  for  which  the  steeds  were  wanted,  refused,  under  some 
pretext,  to  give  them  up,  and,  while  parleying,  the  favorable 
opportunity  was  lost.  It  seems  J onker  never  forgave  Zwart- 
booi this  act  of  treachery,  as  he  called  it,  and  determined, 
let  the  risk  be  whatever  it  might,  never  again  to  put  him- 
self in  another  man’s  power. 

Two  days  after  Zwartbooi’s  arrival  at  Schmelen’s  Hope 
Mr.  Galton  returned.  He  had  been  successful  beyond  his 
most  sanguine  expectations,  for  Jonker  had  not  alone  for- 
mally apologized  to  Mr.  Kolbe  for  his  brutal  behavior  at 
Schmelen’s  Hope,  but  had  expressed  regret  at  his  past  con- 
duct, and  had  faithfully  promised,  for  the  future,  to  live  in 
peace  and  amity  with  the  Damaras.  Several  important  reg- 
ulations had,  moreover,  been  proposed  by  my  friend  and  ap- 
proved of  by  Jonker  and  his  tribe,  with  a view  of  upholding 
order  and  justice  in  the  land,  but  how  far  they  were  carried 
out  the  sequel  will  show. 

Fresh  messengers  had  also  been  dispatched  to  the  respect- 
ive Namaqua  and  Damara  chiefs,  with  a request  that  they 
would  attend  a general  meeting  in  order  to  secure  to  the 
country  a lasting  peace.  We  could  not,  however,  induce 
them  to  do  this.  The  late  attacks  were  too  fresh  in  their 


JOHN  WAGGONER, 


139 


memory  to  inspire  confidence  in  either  party : each  distrust- 
ed his  neighbor. 

Jonker  gave  Mr.  Galton  much  interesting  and  valuable 
information  regarding  the  country  northward.  He  had  him- 
self made  two  or  three  expeditions  in  that  direction,  the  last 
of  which,  as  mentioned,  was  for  the  purpose  of  plundering  a 
vessel  reported  to  have  been  wrecked  off  Cape  Cross. 

In  the  course  of  his  journey  Mr.  Galton  visited  Reho- 
both,  a Rhenish  missionary  station,  and  the  residence  of 
William  Zwartbooi.  The  mission  was  here  conducted  by 
the  Rev.  Messrs.  Kleinschmidt  and  Yollmer,  and  was  at  this 
period  the  most  flourishing  establishment  of  the  kind  in  the 
country. 

Here  my  friend  learned  with  regret  that  John  Waggoner, 
who,  as  the  reader  may  remember,  was  dismissed  at  Barmen, 
had  afterward  acted  very  disgracefully  and  dishonestly.  He 
began  by  selling  the  same  sheep  to  a trader  three  times  over ; 
and,  just  as  Mr.  Galton  arrived,  John  had  absconded  with 
several  head  of  cattle,  stolen  from  the  missionaries  and  the 
natives.  My  friend  at  once  started  off  in  pursuit;  but, 
though  he  followed  on  his  track  for  a day  and  a night,  he 
was  obliged  to  return  without  being  able  to  overtake  him. 

Wherever  John  Waggoner  went  he  represented  himself  as 
Mr.  Gallon’s  servant,  and  affirmed  that  he  was  intrusted 
with  dispatches  of  moment  for  the  British  government  at 
the  Cape.  He  added,  moreover,  that,  under  such  circum- 
stances, they  were  in  duty  bound  to  assist  and  speed  him  on 
his  way.  The  most  extravagant  reports  of  our  greatness 
and  importance  had  already  been  circulated  throughout  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  land  by  the  natives  themselves. 
This,  together  with  John’s  impudent  and  confident  air,  pro- 
duced the  desired  effect.  Horses,  cattle,  wagons,  &c.,  were 
every  where  promptly  placed  at  his  disposal.  Even  the  mis- 
sionaries were  duped,  and  John  is  said  to  have  reached  his 
destination,  enriched  with  spoils,  in  an  incredibly  short  time. 


140  CHANGE  OF  SERVANTS LARVAE. 

His  first  act  on  arriving  at  the  Cape  was  to  engage  himself 
to  a trader,  who  imprudently  advanced  him  a considerable 
sum  of  money,  which  he  coolly  pocketed  and  then  decamped. 

Our  lad,  Gabriel,  also  marked  his  road  to  the  colony  with 
many  traits  of  violence  and  insolence,  but  he  had  neither  the 
cunning  nor  the  impudence  of  his  associate. 

Abraham  Wenzel,  the  thief,  had  again  behaved  improper- 
ly, and  Mr.  Galton  found  it  necessary  to  give  him  his  dis- 
missal. 

We  had  thus,  in  a short  time,  lost  the  services  of  three 
men;  but,  fortunately,  through  the  kindness  of  our  friend 
Zwartbooi,  we  were  able  to  replace  them  by  two  others.  The 
first  of  these  was  his  own  henchman,  Onesimus,  who  was  a 
Damara  by  birth,  but  had  been  captured  as  a child  and 
brought  up  among  the  Namaquas.  He  spoke  the  language 
of  these  two  nations  most  fluently,  and  understood,  more- 
over, a few  words  of  Dutch.  What  with  his  capacity  as  an 
interpreter,  his  even  temper  and  general  good  behavior,  he 
became  one  of  the  most  useful  men  of  our  party. 

The  other  man,  Phillippus,  was  also  a Damara  by  birth, 
but  had  forgotten  his  native  tongue.  He  spoke,  however, 
the  Namaqua  and  the  Dutch  fluently.  He  was  appointed  a 
wagon-driver. 

One  morning,  to  our  surprise,  we  found  the  whole  ground 
about  our  encampment  covered  with  larvse  of  a dark-green 
color.  Whence,  or  how  they  came  there,  was  to  us  quite  a 
mystery.  We  at  length  conjectured  that  at  some  previous 
period  a swarm  of  locusts,  in  passing  the  place,  had  deposit- 
ed their  ova  in  the  sand,  and,  now  that  the  green  grass  be- 
gan to  spring  up  (which  provided  them  with  suitable  food), 
their  progeny  emerged  in  the  shape  of  worms. 

At  the  same  time  many  thousand  storks  appeared,  and  ev- 
idently much  relished  the  rich  and  abundant  repast. 

Mr.  Galton’s  successful  remonstrances  with  Jonker  had 
pacified  the  excited  minds  of  our  Damaras.  It  had  inspired 


A RECONNOITRING  EXPEDITION — -THUNDER-STORM.  141 

them  with  fresh  confidence,  and  they  no  longer  declined  to 
accompany  us.  The  worst  of  our  Cape  servants  had  been 
weeded  out,  and  their  places  filled  with  useful  and  compe- 
tent men.  Our  stud  of  draft-oxen,  moreover,  had  been 
greatly  increased,  to  say  nothing  of  a large  supply  of  live- 
stock. Matters  thus  once  more  looked  bright  and  cheering, 
and  we  no  longer  hesitated  to  prosecute  our  journey.  Nev- 
ertheless, before  making  the  final  arrangements,  it  was  deem- 
ed advisable  to  know  something  of  the  country  immediately 
in  advance  of  us,  and  how  far  it  was  practicable  for  wagons. 
Galton  having  just  returned  from  an  excursion,  it  was  thought 
only  fair  that  I should  undertake  to  ascertain  this  point. 

Accordingly,  I left  Schmelen’s  Hope  on  the  24th  of  Feb- 
ruary, on  ox-back,  accompanied  by  Timbo,  John  St.  Helena, 
and  John  Allen,  perhaps  the  three  most  trustworthy  and  use- 
ful of  our  servants,  as  also  a few  Damaras,  who  were  to  serve 
me  as  guides  and  herdsmen. 

On  the  first  night  after  leaving  Schmelen’s  Hope  we  were 
visited  by  a terrific  thunder-storm,  accompanied  by  a deluge 
of  rain,  which  continued  without  intermission  till  four  o’clock 
the  next  morning. 

With  my  legs  drawn  up  under  my  chin,  and  the  caross 
well  wrapped  round  my  head,  I spent  this  dreadful  night 
seated  on  a stone,  while  the  men,  strange  to  say,  slept  sound- 
ly at  my  feet  in  a deluge  of  water.  The  next  day,  however, 
was  bright  and  warm.  The  earth  steamed  with  the  sweet 
odors  of  a tropical  herbage,  and  the  landscape  looked  so  beau- 
tiful and  smiling  that  I felt  my  heart  leap  with  joy  and  grat- 
itude to  the  Giver  of  all  good.  The  misery  of  the  night  was 
soon  forgotten,  and  we  proceeded  cheerfully  on  our  jour- 
ney. 

As  we  traveled  on,  we  caught  a glimpse  of  the  beautiful 
cones  of  Omatako,  which  rise  about  two  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  plain.  I scarcely  remember  having  ever  been 
more  struck  or  delighted  with  any  particular  feature  in  a 


142 


THE  OMATAKO  MOUNTAINS — -ZEBRA-FLESH. 


landscape  than  when  these  two  “ Teneriffes”  first  broke  upon 
my  view,  x 

“ Then  felt  I like  some  watcher  of  the  skies, 

When  a new  planet  swims  into  his  ken.” 

We  must  have  been  fifty  or  sixty  miles  .from  these  conical 
mountains,  yet  there  they  were  as  distinct  as  if  we  had  stood 
at  their  base.  The  immense  distance  at  which  objects  can 
be  seen  in  these  regions,  in  a clear  atmosphere,  is  truly  mar- 
velous. 

With  the  exception  of  a single  kraal  of  impoverished  Da- 
maras,  we  found  no  inhabitants.  On  leaving  Schmelen’s 
Hope,  we  had  been  led  to  suppose  that  we  should  meet  with 
several  werfts  of  wealthy  natives,  from  whom  we  might  ob- 
tain, in  barter,  an  unlimited  number  of  cattle.  We  foolish- 
ly enough  trusted  to  this  chance,  and  started  with  only  one 
day’s  provision.  Game,  it  is  true,  we  found  very  abundant ; 
but  the  animals  were  very  wild,  and  I was  pressed  for  time, 
and  could  not  give  chase  to  them.  One  evening  I fired  at 
a zebra,  but,  not  distinguishing  the  peculiar  sound  of  the 
ball  when  striking  the  animal  (a  power  of  ear  acquired  by 
much  practice),  I supposed  I had  missed  it,  and,  therefore, 
did  not  follow  its  tracks.  On  passing,  however,  nearly  by 
the  same  place  next  evening,  we  found  that  the  animal  had 
been  killed,  and,  excepting  the  head  and  part  of  the  neck,  was 
devoured  by  vultures.  The  conical  ball  I used  on  the  occa- 
sion was  found  loose  in  the  inside  of  the  skeleton.  Notwith- 
standing the  defiled  state  of  what  was  left  of  the  carcass,  we 
hailed  it  as  a perfect  god-send.  For  the  two  previous  days 
we  had  been  living  on  zebra-flesh  in  a state  of  decay,  which 
our  Damaras  had  accidentally  picked  up.  Indeed,  our  guides 
had  absconded  from  want  of  food. 

One  evening,  when  very  much  fatigued  from  the  day’s 
march,  and  suffering  cruelly  from  thirst,  our  native  servants, 
by  way  of  consolation,  entertained  us  with  the  following  in- 
teresting account  of  their  countrymen. 


TROPICAL  PHENOMENON. 


143 


“The  Damaras,”  they  said,  “are  now  watching  us  from 
a distance ; and,  as  soon  as  we  shall  have  gone  to  sleep,  they 
will  suddenly  fall  upon  us,  and  assegai  us.” 

Timbo,  John  St.  Helena,  and  John  Allen  evidently  be- 
lieved them,  and  looked  wretchedly  uncomfortable.  As  for 
myself,  though  there  certainly  was  nothing  at  all  improba- 
ble in  the  story,  I felt  less  apprehensive  than  annoyed,  well 
knowing  the  bad  effect  it  would  have  on  the  timid  and  super- 
stitious minds  of  my  men. 

On  the  third  day,  about  noon,  we  reached  the  northern 
side  of  Omatako,  where  we  struck  a small  periodical  river  of 
the  same  name.  To  our  dismay,  however,  we  found  it  per- 
fectly dry ; and,  as  we  had  then  already  been  twenty-four 
hours  without  a drop  of  water,  I was  afraid  to  proceed  any 
further.  Just  as  we  were  about  to  retrace  our  steps,  the 
river,  to  our  inexpressible  delight,  came  down  with  a rush. 
To  those  of  my  readers  who  are  not  conversant  with  the  mys- 
teries of  a tropical  climate,  it  may  appear  almost  impossible 
that  a dry  water-course  should  in  the  space  of  five  minutes, 
and  without  any  previous  indication,  be  converted  into  a foam- 
ing torrent ; yet,  in  the  rainy  season,  this  is  almost  an  every- 
day occurrence.  Not  a cloud  obscured  the  transparent  at- 
mosphere at  the  time,  but  on  the  preceding  night  there  had 
been  vivid  lightning  and  heavy  thunder  in  the  direction  of 
the  source  of  the  river,  which  sufficiently  accounted  for  the 
phenomenon. 

On  this  river  I saw  for  the  first  time  the  gigantic  foot- 
prints of  elephants.  The  natives  told  me  that  these  animals 
come  here  in  great  numbers  in  the  winter-time,  and  when 
the  water  begins  to  diminish  they  return  slowly  northward. 
Hans  assured  me  that  their  tracks  are  still  to  be  seen  as  far 
south  as  the  River  Swakop,  close  to  its  embouchure. 

From  this  point  we  had  a very  good  prospect  of  the 
country.  Several  interesting  mountains  presented  themselves 
to  the  view.  To  the  north,  the  Konyati,  Eshuameno,  la 


144 


THE  DAMARAS  GREAT  LIARS. 


Kabaka,  and  Omuvereoom,  stood  out  in  bold  relief.  Some 
of  these  were  similar  to  that  of  Erongo,  and,  like  it,  inhabited 
by  Hill-Damaras,  as  also  a few  Bushmen. 

I was  particularly  anxious  to  learn  something  of  the 
country  toward  the  north,  in  which  direction — as  before  said 
— our  route  to  Omanbonde  lay ; but  it  was  in  vain  that  I 
endeavored  to  get  any  thing  like  correct  information  from  the 
natives,  notwithstanding  some  had  actually  been  living  there. 
I was  excessively  annoyed,  and  imagined  that  their  conflict- 
ing accounts  were  purposely  invented  to  deceive  and  frighten 
me ; but,  as  I became  more  intimate  with  the  Damara  char- 
acter, I found  that  they  lied  more  from  habit  than  for  the 
mere  sake  of  lying.  Indeed,  a Damara  would  believe  his 
own  lies,  however  glaring  and  startling  they  might  be.  Thus, 
for  instance,  they  informed  me  that  the  mountain  Omuvere- 
oom,  which  was  distinctly  visible,  lay  ten  long  days’  journey 
off,  and  was  inhabited  by  Hill-Damaras  and  Bushmen,  whom 
they  represented  as  perfect  devils ; moreover,  that  the  inter- 
vening space  was  entirely  destitute  of  water,  and  that  any  one 
attempting  to  traverse  it  would  be  sure  to  perish.  At  a sub- 
sequent period,  we  not  only  reached  this  mountain  after  four- 
teen hours’  traveling,  but  found  an  abundance  of  water ; and 
the  natives,  instead  of  being  monsters,  were  the  most  timid 
and  harmless  of  human  beings. 

This,  however,  is  only  one  of  the  hundred  instances  that 
might  be  mentioned  of  the  difficulty  of  eliciting  truth  from 
the  Damaras.  The  missionaries  had  been  living  for  several 
years  at  Barmen  and  Schmelen’s  Hope  before  they  were 
aware  of  the  existence  of  either  “ Buxton”  or  Okandu  fount- 
ain, and  yet  these  places  were  within  a very  short  distance 
of  the  stations,  and  they  had  made  repeated  inquiries  after 
springs. 

With  regard  to  the  distance  and  situation  of  Omanbonde, 
the  chief  object  of  our  journey,  they  could  not  say  whether 
one  or  ten  weeks  would  be  required  in  order  to  reach  it. 


RETURN  TO  SCHMELEN’S  HOPE. 


145 


One  man  told  Galton  that  if  he  started  at  once  for  this 
place,  and  traveled  as  fast  as  he  could,  he  would  be  an  old 
man  by  the  time  he  returned.* 

Returning  homeward,  we  pursued  a somewhat  different 
course.  The  first  night,  the  men,  for  the  sake  of  variety  it 
is  presumed,  thought  fit  to  encamp  in  the  middle  of  an  ant- 
hill ! I was  absent  at  the  time,  and  on  returning,  all  the 
arrangements  had  been  made  for  the  night.  Tired  as  we 
were,  I could  not  well  think  of  moving.  The  result  may 
easily  be  imagined. 

The  next  day,  in  the  more  open  parts  of  the  country,  we 
met  with  a very  great  abundance  of  a kind  of  sweet  ber- 
ry, about  the  size  of  peas,  which  afforded  us  a most  delicious 
feast. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  sixth  day  we  found  ourselves 
back  at  Schmelen’s  Hope,  having  been  sixty  hours  on  the 
move,  or,  at  an  average,  twelve  hours  daily.  Allowing  three 
miles  per  hour  at  the  lowest  estimation,  we  had  gone  over  a 
tract  of  country  fully  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in  ex- 
tent, the  greater  part  of  which,  moreover,  had  been  perform- 
ed on  foot.  Under  ordinary  circumstances,  we  should,  per- 
haps, have  thought  nothing  of  the  performance ; but,  what 
with  bad  living,  previous  long  rest,  and  so  forth,  we  were  in 
poor  condition  for  such  sudden  and  severe  exertions.  In- 
deed, before  we  were  at  the  journey’s  end,  both  man  and 
beast  were  completely  knocked  up. 

The  object,  however,  had  been  gained.  We  had  ascertain- 
ed that  the  country,, for  several  days’  journey,  was  tolerably, 
open  and  traversable  for  wagons  ; that  grass  abounded  ; and 

, * This  surpasses  the  graphic  answer  given  to  Bjorn  Jernsida  (the 
bear  ironside),  a famous  Swedish  sea-king.  When  on  his  way  to 
plunder  Rome,  he  inquired  of  a wayfaring  man  what  the  distance 
might  be.  “ Look  at  these  shoes !”  said  the  traveler,  holding  up  a pair 
of  worn-out  iron-shod  sandals ; “ when  I left  the  place  you  inquire  for, 
they  were  new;  judge,  then,  for  yourself!” 

G 


146  FINAL  DEPARTURE  FROM  SCHMELEN’S  HOPE. 

that  (the  most  important  point  of  all)  we  should  be  sure  of 
water  for  ourselves  and  cattle. 

No  time  was  now  lost  in  making  ready  for  a final  start. 
An  American,  who  had  long  been  in  Mr.  Hahn’s  service,  was 
about  to  travel  to  the  Cape  by  land.  Although  the  journey 
was  supposed  to  last  at  least  six  or  seven  months,  communi- 
cation was  so  rare  in  these  parts  that  we  deemed  it  advisable 
to  benefit  by  it.  Letters  were  accordingly  written  to  friends 
and  acquaintances,  as  also  dispatches  for  the  British  govern- 
ment at  the  Cape. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Depart  from  Schmelen’s  Hope.  — Meeting  with  Kahichene.  — Oxen 
Stolen. — Summary  Justice. — Superstition. — Meeting  an  old  Friend. 
— Singular  Custom.  — Gluttony  of  the  Damaras.  — How  they  eat 
Flesh  by  the  Yard  and  not  by  the  Pound.  — Superstitious  Cus- 
tom.— A nondescript  Animal. — The  Author  loses  his  Way. — Rav- 
ages of  the  Termites. — “Wait  a bit,  if  you  please.” — Magnificent 
Fountain.  — Remains  of  Damara  Villages.  — Horrors  of  War.  — 
Meet  Bushmen. — Meet  Damaras. — Difficulties  encountered  by  Af- 
rican Travelers. — Reach  the  Lake  Omanbonde. — Cruel  Disappoint- 
ment. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3d  of  March  we  left  Schmelen’s 
Hope.  The  alternately  rugged  and  sandy  nature  of  the  soil, 
the  embarrassing  thorn  coppices,  and  the  stubbornness  and 
viciousness  of  the  oxen,  rendered  our  progress  at  first  very 
# slow  and  tedious. 

On  the  fifth  day  we  arrived  at  a splendid  vley,  called 
Kotjiamkombe.  From  the  branches  of  the  trees  and  bushes 
which  lined  the  sides  of  this  piece  of  water  were  suspended 
innumerable  graceful  and  fanciful  nests  of  the  well-known 
weaver-bird  species.  The  rank  grasses  and  reeds  afforded 
shelter  to  a great  variety  of  water-fowl,  some  of  which  were 
gorgeously  plumaged.  Here  we  found  Kahichene  waiting  to 


KAHICHENE. 


147 


receive  us ; he  had  already  announced  his  intention  to  visit 
us,  and,  in  order  to  propitiate  our  favor,  had  a few  days  pre- 
viously forwarded  us  a present  of  several  head  of  cattle. 
The  chief  was  accompanied  by  about  forty  of  his  people,  who, 
taking  them  as  a whole,  were  the  finest  body  of  men  I have 
ever  seen  before  or  since ; yet  they  were  all  arrant  knaves. 
Kahichene  told  them  as  much  in  our  presence ; but,  strange 
to  say,  they  were  not  in  the  least  abashed. 

This  tribe  had  at  one  time  been  the  richest,  the  most 
numerous,  and  the  most  powerful  in  the  country ; but,  what 
with  their  own  civil  broils,  and  the  exterminating  wars  with 
the  Namaquas,  they  had  gradually  dwindled  to  about  twenty- 
five  villages,  with  perhaps  ten  or  fifteen  thousand  head  of 
horned  cattle.* 

Notwithstanding  Kahichene  in  former  days  had  commit- 
ted many  depredations  against  his  neighbors,  we  could  not 
help  liking  him.  In  a very  short  time  he  had  thoroughly 
ingratiated  himself  in  our  favor.  Indeed,  he  was  the  only 
Damara,  whether  high  or  low,  for  whom  we  entertained  any 
regard.  Perhaps,  also,  his  late  misfortunes  had  insured  our 
sympathy.  With  the  missionaries,  Kahichene  had  always 
been  a very  great  favorite,  and  they  looked  upon  him  as  the 
stepping-stone  to  the  future  civilization  of  Damara-land; 
but  we  have  already  seen  how  far  this  was  realized. 

Kahichene  was  somewhat  advanced  in  years,  but  his  de- 
portment was  dignified  and  courteous.  He  was,  moreover, 
truthful  and  courageous — rare  virtues  among  his  country- 
men. It  would  have  been  well  had  the  rest  of  the  nation  at 
all  resembled  this  chief. 

Kahichene  was  at  this  period  at  variance  with  a very 
warlike  and  powerful  tribe  of  Damaras,  under  the  rule  of 
Omugunde,  or  rather  his  son,  whom  he  represented  as  a man 
degraded  by  every  vice,  and  particularly  inimical  toward 

* Previously  to  my  leaving  Africa,  I learned  that  the  entire  tribe  had 
been  broken  up. 


148 


SINGULAR  TROPHIES OXEN  STOLEN. 


strangers.  We,  of  course,  made  due  allowances,  as  our  friend 
was  speaking  of  liis  mortal  enemy ; but  the  account  so  terri- 
fied our  men  that  three  of  them  begged  to  be  dismissed,  and 
they  could  only  be  persuaded  to  discontinue  their  solicitation 
by  our  promising  them  not  to  pass  through  the  territory  of 
the  hostile  chief. 

On  one  occasion,  some  cattle  belonging  to  Mr.  Hahn  had 
been  stolen  by  a party  of  Omugunde’s  men.  Remonstrances 
being  made,  they  were  after  a time  returned,  but  minus  their 
tails,  which  were  cut  off  by  the  natives,  and  kept  by  them  as 
u trophies.” 

In  conflict  with  Omugunde,  several  of  Kahichene’s  children 
had  been  killed,  and  one  or  two  had  unfortunately  fallen 
alive  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  These  were  kept  as 
prisoners.  Only  one  stripling  was  now  left  to  solace  Kahi- 
ehene  in  his  old  age.  He  informed  us  that  he  had  made  up 
his  mind  to  try  to  recover  his  offspring  and  his  property,  or 
to  die  in  the  attempt.  At  first  he  appeared  anxious  for  our 
assistance;  but,  on  mature  consideration,  he  generously  re- 
fused any  interference  on  our  part  in  his  behalf.  “For” 
said  he,  u when  once  the  war  begins,  there  is  no  saying  when 
or  where  it  will  end.  The  whole  country  will  be  in  an  up- 
roar ; much  blood  will  be  shed ; and  it  would  involve  you  in 
endless  difficulties  and  dangers.”  He,  moreover,  strongly 
endeavored  to  persuade  us  from  proceeding  northward  at  all, 
but  in  that  matter  he  of  course  failed. 

We  had  only  been  a short  time  at  Kotjiamkombe  when 
it  was  discovered  that  four  of  our  best  draft-oxen  were  stolen 
by  some  stranger  Damaras.  On  being  informed  of  this  theft, 
Kahichene  became  exceedingly  annoyed,  and  even  distressed, 
as  he  considered  us  under  his  special  protection.  He  imme- 
diately dispatched  men  on  their  tracks,  with  strict  orders  to 
recover  the  oxen,  and,  if  possible,  to  bring  back  the  thieves. 
They  succeeded  in  recapturing  all  the  beasts  but  one,  which 
the  natives  had  slain  and  eaten.  With  regard  to  the  fate  of 


SUMMARY  JUSTICE SUPERSTITION. 


149 


the  rogues,  we  could  never  ascertain  any  thing  with  certain- 
ty. We  were,  however,  strongly  inclined  to  think  they  were 
all  killed,  the  more  so  as  Kahichene  himself  told  us  that,  in 
case  of  their  capture,  they  ought  to  be  punished  with  death, 
and  coolly  suggested  hanging  as  the  most  eligible  way  of  rid- 
ding the  world  of  such  scoundrels.  We,  of  course,  took  the 
liberty  to  remonstrate  with  the  chief  upon  the  severity  of 
this  measure,  but  with  little  or  no  effect.  Indeed,  one  man 
was  accidentally  found  at  a distance  from  our  camp  in  a 
horribly  mangled  state,  and,  on  being  brought  to  us,  he 
stated  that  he  himself,  together  with  several  of  his  friends, 
were  driving  away  the  cattle,  when  they  were  overtaken  by 
Kahichene’s  men,  who  immediately  attacked  them  with  their 
kieries,  and  only  left  them  when  they  thought  life  was  ex- 
tinct. He  had,  however,  partially  recovered,  but  was  com- 
pletely naked,  having,  as  is  usual  on  similar  occasions,  been 
stripped  of  every  article  of  dress.  The  exterior  of  his  body 
was  nearly  covered  with  blood.  The  head  was  almost  double 
its  natural  size ; indeed,  it  resembled  rather  a lump  of  mashed 
flesh ; no  particular  feature  could  be  distinguished,  and  his 
eyes  were  effectually  hidden  from  view.  The  sight  alto- 
gether was  hideous. 

Instead  of  proceeding  due  north,  as  was  originally  pro- 
posed, it  was  found  necessary,  in  order  to  avoid  Omugunde, 
to  make  a considerable  detour  to  the  westward.  As  Kahi- 
chene, with  his  tribe,  was  encamped  in  that  direction,  he  in- 
vited us  to  take  his  werft  by  the  way,  to  which  we  cordially 
assented.  On  the  day  of  our  departure  from  Kotjiamkombe, 
the  chief  led  the  way.  A branch  of  a particular  kind  of 
wood  (having  a small,  red,  bitter  berry,  not  unlike  that  of 
the  mountain-ash)  was  trailed  before  him — a superstitious 
act,  thought  to  be  essential  in  insuring  success  during  the 
pending  attack  against  his  mortal  enemy. 

Before  reaching  the  chiefs  kraal,  we  passed  the  foot  of  a 
very  conspicuous  mountain  called  Ombotodthu.  This  eleva- 


150 


ARRIVE  AT  KAHICHENE’S  KRAAL. 


tion  is  remarkable  for  its  peculiar  red  stone,  which  is  eagerly 
sought  after  by  the  natives.  Having  reduced  it  to  powder, 
they  mix  it  with  fat,  when  it  is  used  as  an  ointment.  I was 
at  first  struck  by  its  great  resemblance  to  quicksilver  ore, 
and  was  led  to  believe  that  we  had  really  discovered  a mine 
of  that  valuable  mineral.  However,  on  considering  the 
harmless  effect  it  had  on  the  natives,  and  that,  had  it  been 
quicksilver,  its  use  would  have  produced  an  opposite  result, 
I came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  simply  oxide  of  iron, 
which  has  since  been  confirmed  by  analysis. 

On  arriving  at  Kahichene’s  werft  we  were  well  received 
by  our  host  and  his  tribe,  from  whom  we  obtained  by  barter 
a few  head  of  cattle.  Indeed,  we  might  here  have  sold  all 
our  articles  of  exchange  to  great  advantage ; but  this  was 
not  thought  advisable,  as,  in  case  of  the  cattle  being  lost  or 
stolen,  we  should  have  been  in  a state  of  complete  destitu- 
tion. Could  we,  however,  have  foreseen  the  future,  our  tac- 
tics would  have  been  different ; for,  as  it  afterward  turned 
out,  this  was  almost  the  last  opportunity  we  had  of  provid- 
ing ourselves  with  live-stock. 

By  a strange  chance,  I accidentally  became  the  owner  of  a 
percussion  rifle,  which  had  at  one  time  belonged  to  Hans, 
but  who,  years  previously,  had  disposed  of  it  to  a Damara. 
The  latter,  however,  finding  that  he  could  not  obtain  a reg- 
ular supply  of  caps,  offered  to  exchange  it  for  a common 
flint-lock  musket.  The  rifle  was  a very  indifferent  and  clum- 
sy-looking  concern,  and  had,  if  I remember  rightly,  been 
manufactured  by  Powell,  of  London.  In  justice  to  the 
maker,  however,  I must  confess  that  a man  could  not  possi- 
bly wish  for  a better.  While  in  my  possession,  many  hund- 
red head  of  large  game,  to  say  nothing  of  a host  of  bustards, 
geese,  ducks,  Guinea-fowl,  &c.,  fell  to  this  piece. 

Game  was  abundant  in  the  neighborhood  of  Kahichene’s 
kraal,  and  Hans  made  several  successful  shots.  Very  little, 
however,  of  what  was  killed  reached  us,  for  the  portion  not 


METHOD  OF  CUEING  MEAT. 


151 


immediately  appropriated  by  the  Damaras  ultimately  found 
its  way  to  them  through  the  medium  of  our  native  servants. 
In  Damara-land  the  carcasses  of  all  animals,  whether  wild  or 
domesticated,  are  considered  public  property ; therefore,  un- 
less the  natives  should  share  their  allowances  with  every 
stranger  that  might  choose  to  intrude  himself  into  their  com- 
pany, a withering  “ curse”  was  supposed  to  befall  them.  I 
have  seen  the  flesh  of  four  zebras,  that  had  been  shot  by  our 
party,  brought  to  the  camp  in  a single  day,  and  the  aext 
morning  we  could  not  obtain  a steak  for  our  breakfast. 

The  Damaras  are  the  most  voracious  and  improvident 
creatures  in  the  world.  When  they  have  flesh  they  gorge 
upon  it  night  and  day,  and  in  the  most  disgusting  manner, 
until  not  a particle  is  left ; and,  as  a consequence,  they  not 
unfrequently  starve  for  several  days  together ; but  they  are 
so  accustomed  to  this  mode  of  living  that  it  has  no  injurious 
effect  on  them. 

In  this  hot  climate,  unless  preventives  of  some  kind  were 
adopted,  flesh  would,  of  course,  soon  become  tainted ; and  as 
salt,  from  the  difficulty  of  conveyance,  is  exceedingly  scarce 
in  Damara-land,  the  following  expedient  is  adopted.  As 
soon  as  the  animal  is  killed,  lumps  are  indiscriminately  cut 
from  the  carcass ; a knife  is  plunged  into  an  edge  of  one  of 
these  lumps,  and  passed  round  in  a spiral  manner,  till  it  ar- 
rives at  the  middle,  when  a string  of  meat,  often  ten  to  twen- 
ty feet  long,  is  produced,  which  is  then  suspended  like  fes- 
toons  to  the  branches  of  the  surrounding  trees.  By  cutting 
the  flesh  very  thin#  it  soon  dries,  and  may  in  that  state  be 
carried  about  any  length  of  time.  There  is  considerable 
waste  in  this  process,  as  fully  one  third  of  the  meat  thus  jerk- 
ed is  lost.  On  such  occasions,  the  natives  take  care  not  to 
forget  their  own  stomachs.  Besides  large  pots  filled  with 
the  most  delicate  morsels,  immense  coils  may  be  seen  friz- 
zling on  the  coals  in  every  direction.  When  half  roasted, 
they  seize  one  end  with  their  hands,  and,  applying  it  to  their 


152 


DEATH  OF  KAHICHENE. 


mouth,  they  tug  away  voraciously,  not  being  over  particular 
as  to  mastication.  In  this  way  they  soon  manage  to  get 
through  a yard  or  two,  the  place  of  pepper  and  salt  being 
supplied  by  ashes  attached  to  the  flesh,  which  ashes  are,  more- 
over, found  to  be  an  excellent  remedy  against  bad  digestion. 

I frequently  observed  the  daughter  of  Kahichene’s  favor- 
ite wife  sprinkling  water  over  the  large  oxen  as  they  return- 
ed to  the  werft  about  noon  to  quench  their  thirst.  On  such 
occasions  she  made  use  of  a small  branch  of  some  kind  of 
berry-tree,  such  as  that  which  Kahichene  caused  to  be  trail- 
ed after  him  when  wishing  to  be  successful  in  his  attack  on 
Omugunde.  In  this  instance  (as  they  somewhat  poetically 
expressed  themselves),  the  aspersion  was  supposed,  should  the 
cattle  be  stolen,  to  have  the  power  of  scattering  them  like 
drops  of  water,  in  order  to  confuse  their  pursuers,  and  to  fa- 
cilitate their  return  to  the  owners. 

On  the  18th  of  March  we  were  again  en  route . It  was 
with  regret  that  we  parted  with  our  friendly  and  hospitable 
host.  Poor  Kahichene  we  were  doomed  never  to  meet  again ! 
A few  months  after  our  departure  he  made  an  attack  on 
Omugunde  ; but,  at  the  very  commencement  of  the  fight,  and 
when  every  thing  promised  success,  his  dastardly  followers 
(as  he  always  had  predicted)  left  him.  But  too  proud  him- 
self to  fly,  he  fell,  mortally  wounded,  pierced  with  a shower 
of  arrows.  * 

Being  in  advance  of  the  wagons,  I suddenly  came  upon 
an  animal  which,  though  considerably  smaller,  much  resem- 
bled a lion  in  appearance.  Under  ordinary  circumstances  I 
should  certainly  have  taken  it  for  a young  lion ; but  I had 
been  formerly  given  to  understand  that  in  this  part  of  Africa 
there  exists  a quadruped  which,  in  regard  to  shape  and  col- 
or, is  like  a lion,  but  in  most  other  respects  totally  distinct 
from  it.  The  beast  in  question  is  said  to  be  nocturnal  in  its 
habits,  to  be  timid  and  harmless,  and  to  prey,  for  the  most 
part,  on  the  small  species  of  antelopes.  In  the  native  lan- 


ASCEND  ESHUAMENO  MOUNTAIN. 


153 


guage  it  is  called  Onguirira,  and  would,  as  far  as  I could  see, 
have  answered  the  description  of  a puma.  As  it  was  going 
straight  away  from  me,  I did  not  think  it  prudent  to  fire. 

Immense  quantities  of  game  were  now  observed,  but  the 
country  was  open  and  ill  adapted  for  stalking,  and,  having 
no  horses,  it  was  difficult  to  get  within  range.  A few  spring- 
boks, however,  were  killed.  I also  shot  a hartebeest ; but, 
having  been  obliged  to  leave  it  for  about  an  hour,  I found,  on 
my  return,  that  it  had  been  entirely  devoured  by  vultures ; 
but  as  they  could  not  manage  to  eat  the  bones,  our  men  con- 
soled themselves  by  sucking  them.  The  flesh  of  the  harte- 
beest is  considered  extremely  palatable. 

The  next  day  we  rounded  the  cones  of  Omatako ; but,  to 
my  great  astonishment,  the  river  of  that  name,  although  run- 
ning breast-high  on  my  visit  to  it  about  a fortnight  previous- 
ly, was  now  perfectly  dry.  Fortunately,  a pool  still  remain- 
ed on  its  left  bank. 

The  estimate  of  the  Damaras  as  to  the  distance  between 
the  mountains  Omatako  and  Omuvereoom,  of  which  mention 
was  recently  made,  was  now  reduced  from  ten  to  three  long 
days’  journey.  These  men  still  said  that  the  intervening 
country  was  destitute  of  water.  We  dared  no  longer  trust 
to  their  conflicting  and  unsatisfactory  accounts  ; but,  in  order 
to  enable  us  to  judge  in  a measure  for  ourselves,  Galton  rode 
to  the  neighboring  mountain,  Eshuameno,  whence,  from  its 
advanced  and  isolated  position,  a good  view  of  the  country 
was  likely  to  be  obtained.  After  the  absence  of  a day  and 
a night,  he  returned  with  favorable  news.  By  means  of  a 
rough  triangulation,  he  had  ascertained  that  Omuvereoom 
could  not  possibly  be  distant  above  twelve  or  fourteen  hours’ 
traveling.  To  the  north  and  west  of  Omuvereoom  the  coun- 
try appeared  as  one  unbounded  plain,  only  covered  by  brush- 
wood. Eastward  grass  and  trees  were  abundant.  This,  to- 
gether with  a timely  fall  of  rain,  at  once  determined  us  to 
make  the  attempt. 

G 2 


154 


THE  AUTHOR  LOSES  HIS  WAY. 


On  the  morning  of  our  departure  a bitterly  cold  wind 
swept  over  the  dreary  wastes,  and  suddenly  reminded  us  of 
the  approach  of  the  winter  season.  Hitherto  a shirt  and  a 
pair  of  trowsers  had  been  enough  to  protect  our  bodies,  but 
this  day  an  addition  of  thick  flannel  and  a warm  pea-jacket 
was  found  to  be  insufficient. 

One  evening,  as  Hans  and  myself  were  giving  chase  to  a 
troop  of  giraffes,  we  were  overtaken  by  darkness,  and,  in  the 
heat  of  pursuit,  had  completely  lost  our  way.  Hans  being  the 
most  experienced  of  the  two,  I blindly  abandoned  myself  to  his 
instinct  and  guidance.  After  a while,  however,  it  struck  me 
we  were  actually  retracing  our  steps  to  Omatako,  and  I told 
him  so,  but  he  only  laughed  at  my  apprehensions.  Still,  the 
more  I considered  the  matter,  the  more  I became  convinced 
that  we  were  pursuing  a wrong  course.  In  order,  therefore, 
to  split  the  difference,  I proposed  to  Hans  that  if  in  about 
an  hour  he  did  not  find  any  indications  of  our  whereabouts, 
he  should  permit  me  to  act  as  “ pilot”  for  the  same  space  of 
time,  and  that  if  I were  equally  unsuccessful  as  himself,  we 
should  quietly  wait  for  the  return  of  daylight.  Hans  was 
skeptical,  and,  shaking  his  head,  grudgingly  gave  his  con- 
sent. His  hour  having  elapsed  without  gaining  the  object 
of  our  search,  I wheeled  right  round,  to  his  great  disapproval, 
and  walked  as  hard  as  I could  in  an  exactly  opposite  direc- 
tion. Singularly  enough,  only  two  or  three  minutes  were 
wanting  in  completing  my  hour  when  I was  suddenly  and 
agreeably  surprised  to  find  my  foot  in  the  deep  track  made 
by  the  wheels  of  the  wagons.  Nothing  could  have  been  more 
fortunate,  for  I struck  it  precisely  at  a right  angle.  Anoth- 
er half  an  hour’s  walk  brought  us  safe  back  to  our  bivouac, 
where,  over  a substantial  dinner,  we  joked  Hans  on  his  sin- 
gular obstinacy.  His  pride  as  a skillful  woodsman  had  re- 
ceived a severe  blow,  and  he  would  at  intervals  shrug  his 
shoulders  and  repeat  broken  sentences  of,  “ Well,  I am  sure ! 
It’s  too  bad !”  and  so  forth. 


DESTRUCTIVENESS  OF  THE  TERMITES. 


155 


The  day  after  this  little  adventure  we  continued  our  jour- 
ney, and  in  the  afternoon  found  ourselves  safe  at  the  foot  of 
the  southern  extremity  of  Omuvereoom,  and  its  sister  hill,  la 
Kabaka,  from  which  it  is  only  separated  by  a narrow  valley. 
We  u outspanned”  at  a small  vley,  where,  for  the  first  time, 
I observed  the  willow-tree — an  agreeable  reminiscence  of  my 
native  land.  The  water,  however,  was  of  the  most  abomin- 
able quality,  being  apparently  much  frequented  by  wild  ani- 
mals, who  had  converted  the  pool  into  something  like  what 
we  see  in  a farm-yard. 

At  this  place  we  had  a striking  instance  of  the  fearful  rav- 
ages which  termites  are  capable  of  committing  in  an  incred- 
ibly short  time.  In  the  early  part  of  the  day  after  our  ar- 
rival, Mr.  Galton  and  Hans  started  on  foot,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  ascending  Omuvereoom.  In  consequence  of  a sudden 
and  distressing  pain  in  my  side,  I was  unable  to  accompany 
them,  and,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a little  ease,  made  a sort 
of  extempore  couch  on  the  ground,  covering  it  with  a plaid. 
On  rising  after  a while,  I discovered,  to  my  dismay  and  as- 
tonishment, that  my  bedding  had  been  completely  cut  to 
pieces  by  the  destructive  insects,  and  yet,  when  I first  laid 
down,  not  one  was  visible. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  pushed  on  to  a large  vley,  up- 
ward of  a mile  in  length,  the  finest  sheet  of  standing  water 
we  had  yet  seen  in  Damara-land.  It  was  swarming  with 
geese  and  ducks.  The  vegetation  had  a very  tropical  ap- 
pearance ; several — to  us — new  trees  and  plants,  without 
thorns,  presented  themselves,  and  we  began  to  flatter  our- 
selves that  we  had  at  last  passed  the  boundary-line  of  those 
thorny  woods  which  had  so  long  and  pertinaciously  harass- 
ed us.  In  this,  however,  we  were  disappointed.  The  very 
next  day  we  entered  a region  far  worse  than  any  we  had  yet 
seen,  which,  indeed,  bade  fair  to  stop  us  altogether.  Our  poor 
cattle  were  cruelly  lacerated,  and  it  was  with  the  utmost 
difficulty  we  succeeded  in  getting  the  wagons  through.  I 


.156 


MAGNIFICENT  FOUNTAIN FIG-TREE. 


counted  no  less  than  seven  distinct  species  of  thorny  trees 
and  bushes,  each  of  which  was  a perfect  u Wacht-een-bigte,” 
or  “ Wait  a little,”  as  the  Dutch  colonists  very  properly  call 
these  tormentors.  Few  individuals  have  ever  traveled  in  the 
more  northerly  parts  of  Southern  Africa  without  being  greet- 
ed with  a friendly  salutation  of  4 Stop  a little,  if  you  please 
and  fewer  still,  who  have  disregarded  this  gentle  hint,  ever 
came  away  without  first  paying  a forfeit  of  some  part  or  oth- 
er of  their  dress.  Indeed,  the  fish-hook  principle  on  which 
most  of  the  thorns  are  shaped,  and  the  strength  of  each,  make 
them  most  formidable  enemies.  At  an  average,  each  prickle 
will  sustain  a weight  of  seven  pounds.  Now,  if  the  reader 
will  be  pleased  to  conceive  a few  scores  of  these  to  lay  hold 
of  a man  at  once,  I think  it  will  not  be  difficult  to  imagine 
the  consequences.  Indeed,  on  our  return  to  Barmen,  after  a 
few  months’  absence,  I possessed  hardly  a decent  article  of 
clothing ; and,  had  not  Mr.  Hahn  kindly  taken  pity  on  my 
forlorn  condition,  I am  afraid  there  would  soon  have  been 
little  difference  between  me  and  the  savages. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  arrived  at  a magnificent  fount- 
ain, called  Otjironjuba — the  Calabash — -on  the  side  of  Omu- 
vereoom.  Its  source  was  situated  fully  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  took  its  rise  from  differ- 
ent spots  ; but,  soon  uniting,  the  stream  danced  merrily  down 
the  cliffs.  These  cascades,  falling  to  the  plain  below,  flowed 
over  a bed  of  red  gravel.  A gigantic  fig-tree  had  entwined 
its  roots  round  the  scattered  blocks  of  stone  by  the  side  of 
Otjironjuba  fountain,  its  wide  and  shady  branches  affording  a 
delicious  retreat  during  the  heat  of  the  noonday  sun.  It 
bore  an  abundance  of  fruit ; but  it  was  not  yet  the  season  for 
figs.  Several  half-ripe  ones  that  I opened  contained  a large 
quantity  of  small  ants,  and  even  wasps.  Great  caution,  there- 
fore, is  necessary  in  eating  them. 

Otjironjuba  was  to  us  a perfect  paradise.  We  enjoyed  it 
the  more  on  account  of  the  marked  contrast  it  presented  to 
the  country  we  had  previously  traversed. 


REMAINS  OF  DAMARA  VILLAGES. 


157 


At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  discovered  the  remains  of 
a large  Hill-Damara  kraal.  A considerable  extent  of  land 
had  at  one  time  been  carefully  cultivated,  and  a few  young 
calabashes  and  pumpkins  were  still  seen  springing  up  from 
the  parent  stock  of  the  preceding  season.  The  day  after  our 
arrival  one  or  two  natives  came  to  visit  us,  and  no  doubt, 
also,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  who  and  what  we  were. 
We  of  course  entertained  them  well,  and  at  parting  gave 
them  a few  trifling  presents,  with  a request  that  they  would 
soon  return  with  the  remainder  of  their  tribe,  in  order  that 
we  might  buy  from  them  some  goats,  which,  from  the  sur- 
rounding evidences,  they  must  have  possessed  in  great  num- 
bers. The  fresh  tracks  of  a few  horned  cattle  were  also  to 
be  seen.  However,  our  friends  never  came  back,  nor  did  we 
encounter  any  more  of  the  natives. 

While  sauntering  about  the  place  we  stumbled  upon  sev- 
eral deserted  Damara  villages,  and  our  native  servants  now 
told  us  that,  after  the  late  attack  on  Schmelen’s  Hope  by 
Jonker,  Kahichene  and  his  tribe  had  fled  with  the  remainder 
of  their  cattle  to  this  secluded  spot;  and  yet,  a short  time 
previously,  they  had  positively  asserted  that  the  country  was 
impassable  for  man  and  beast ! They,  moreover,  informed  us 
that  several  bloody  fights,  or  rather  massacres,  had  at  that 
time  taken  place  between  the  contending  parties ; and  that 
whenever  a man,  woman,  or  child  was  met,  and  the  deed 
could  be  perpetrated  with  impunity,  they  were  cruelly  mur- 
dered. These  sanguinary  outrages  were  sometimes  inflicted, 
they  said,  by  the  'Damaras,  and  at  others  by  the  Hill-Da- 
maras. 

I climbed  to  the  top  of  the  Omuvereoom,  whence  I had  a 
very  extensive  view  of  the  country  to  the  eastward ; but,  ex- 
cepting a few  periodical  water-courses  which  originated  in 
the  sides  of  the  mountain,  nothing  but  an  immense  unbroken 
bush  was  to  be  seen.  It  was  in  vain  that  I strained  my  eyes 
to  catch  a glimpse  of  Omanbonde,  which  we  were  told  lay 


158 


THE  BUSHMEN LARGE  LAKE. 


only  about  five  days’  journey  hence,  and  at  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  Omuvereoom. 

Elephants  occasionally  visited  this  neighborhood,  and  even 
breed  near  a fountain  somewhat  farther  to  the  northward. 

After  having  spent  a couple  of  days  very  pleasantly  at  Qfc- 
jironjuba  fountain,  we  for  a short  time  followed  the  course 
of  the  rivulet  which  has  its  rise  there ; but  it  was  soon  lost 
in  a marsh. 

On  the  second  day  of  our  departure  we  came,  unobserved, 
upon  a few  Bushmen,  engaged  in  digging  for  wild  roots,  and 
succeeded  in  capturing  a man  and  woman,  whom,  with  some 
difficulty,  we  persuaded  to  show  us  the  water.  The  dialect 
of  these  people  was  so  different  to  any  we  had  yet  heard, 
that,  notwithstanding  our  two  excellent  interpreters,  we  could 
with  difficulty  understand  them.  However,  by  a good  deal 
of  cross-questioning,  we  managed  to  make  out  that  they  had 
both  been  to  Omanbonde,  which  they  called  Saresab  ; that 
the  “ water  was  as  large  as  the  sky,”  and  that  hippopotami 
existed  there.  The  man,  moreover,  said  that  he  would  con- 
duct us  to  the  lake;  but  this  was  only  a ruse , for  in  the 
course  of  the  night  both  he  and  his  wife  absconded. 

Our  doubts  and  anxiety  increased  as  we  approached  nearer 
and  nearer  the  inland  sea,  and  all  our  thoughts  were  concen- 
trated in  the  single  idea  of  the  lake.  The  Bushman’s  story 
of  the  water  being  “as  large  as  the  sky”  wrought  greatly 
on  our  expectation. 

“ Well,  Andersson,  what  should  you  suppose  this  lake’s 
greatest  length  to  be,  eh'?” said  Galton.  “ Surely  it  can  not 
cover  less  than  fifteen  miles  anyhow  ; and  as  for  its  breadth, 
it  is,  no  doubt,  very  considerable,  for  the  Hottentots  declare 
that  if  you  look  at  a man  from  the  opposite  shore  he  appears 
no  bigger  than  a crow.” 

It  would  have  been  well  for  us  had  we  been  less  sanguine. 

As  we  journeyed  on  a course  somewhat  parallel  with  Omu- 
vereoom, we  fell  in  with  a sort  of  vley  river — if  river  it  could 


THE  LOOKING-GLASS MEAT  BY  THE  YARD.  159 

be  called,  since  it  consisted  alternately  of  dry,  open  spaces 
and  deep  gulleys.  Both  banks  of  this  peculiar  water-course 
were  hemmed  in  by  one  vast  thorn-jungle,  which  seemed  to 
defy  the  passage  of  man  or  beast.  It  was  doubly  fortunate, 
therefore,  that  we  met  this  river,  as  its  sides  served  as  a good 
and  open  road,  while  a plentiful  supply  of  water  was  afforded 
by  the  occasional  pools.  It  was  here,  at  last,  that  we  arrived 
at  some  Damara  villages,  on  the  fifth  day  after  leaving  Otji- 
ronjuba.  At  first  the  natives  tried  to  run  away ; but  we 
captured  a few  women,  which  soon  induced  the  men  to  re- 
turn. These  people  had  never  before  seen  a white  man ; and 
our  sudden  appearance,  therefore,  created  no  small  astonish- 
ment, not  to  say  consternation.  But  of  all  our  property,  noth- 
ing amused  them  more  than  the  sight  of  a looking-glass. 
On  finding  that  the  mirror  faithfully  reflected  the  smallest  of 
their  motions  or  gesticulations,  they  became  convulsed  with 
laughter;  and  some  of  them  were  so  excited  as  to  throw 
themselves  on  the  ground,  pressing  their  hands  against  their 
stomachs.  Others  would  approach  with  their  faces  to  the 
glass  as  close  as  they  could,  then  suddenly  turn  it  round, 
fully  expecting  somebody  at  its  back.  It  is  a great  pity  that 
the  Damaras  are  such  unmitigated  scoundrels,  for  they  are 
full  of  fun  and  merriment.  Give  them  a “yard  of  meat5’ 
and  a bucket  of  water,  and  they  are  the  happiest  creatures  on 
the  face  of  the  earth. 

After  some  parleying,  a man  agreed  to  guide  us  to  the 
lake.  An  afternoon’s  farther  traveling  brought  us  to  a sec- 
ond werft,  the  captain  of  which  was  the  j oiliest  and  the  most 
amusing  Damara  that  we  ever  saw  before  or  since.  He  mim- 
icked the  figure  and  the  actions  of  the  hippopotamus  so  ad- 
mirably that  we  should  never  have  mistaken  the  animal, 
even  had  we  not  known  a word  of  the  language.  He  also 
gave  us  an  amusing  and  laughable  account  of  the  people  to 
the  north. 

One  day  more,  and  the  goal  of  our  hopes  and  anxieties 


160 


DIFFICULTIES  OF  THE  WAY. 


would  be  realized ! We  carefully  examined  our  Mackintosh 
punt  to  see  that  it  was  sound,  as  we  fully  purposed  to  spend 
a few  weeks  on  the  shores  of  Omanbonde,  in  order  to  enjoy 
some  fishing  and  shooting. 

By  this  time  we  had  lost  sight  of  Omuvereoom,  which 
gradually  dwindled  into  a mere  sand-ridge,  and  was  now 
identified  with  the  plain.  The  vley  river  just  mentioned, 
which  had  so  long  befriended  us,  we  also  left  behind,  and 
were  now  traveling  across  a very  sandy  tract  of  country. 
Fortunately,  though  the  bushes  were  very  thick,  only  a few 
were  thorny.  Moreover,  their  wood,  which  was  quite  new  to 
us,  was  of  so  brittle  a nature  that,  although  trees  from  five 
to  six  inches  in  diameter  repeatedly  obstructed  our  path,  our 
ponderous  vehicles  crushed  them  to  the  ground  like  so  many 
rotten  sticks.  A European  can  form  no  conception  of  the 
impracticable  country  one  has  to  travel  over  in  these  parts, 
and  the  immense  difficulties  that  must  be  surmounted.  To 
give  a faint  idea  of  the  obstructions  of  this  kind  of  traveling, 
we  will  suppose  a person  suddenly  placed  at  the  entrance  of 
a primeval  forest  of  unknown  extent,  never  trodden  by  the 
foot  of  man,  the  haunt  of  savage  beasts,  and  with  soil  as 
yielding  as  that  of  an  English  sand-down ; to  this  must  be 
added  a couple  of  ponderous  vehicles,  as  large  as  the  coal- 
vans  met  with  in  the  streets  of  London,  only  a great  deal 
stouter,  to  each  of  which  are  yoked  sixteen  or  twenty  refrac- 
tory, half- trained  oxen.  Let  him  then  be  told,  “ Through 
yonder  wood  lies  your  road ; nothing  is  known  of  it.  Make 
your  way  as  well  as  you  can  ; but  remember,  your  cattle  will 
perish  if  they  do  not  get  water  in  the  course  of  two  or  three 
days.” 

No  greater  calamity  could  possibly  befall  us  than  the  break- 
ing of  an  axle-tree  at  a distance  from  water.  Therefore,  ev- 
ery time  the  wagons  struck  against  a tree,  or  when  the  wheels 
mounted  on  a stone  several  feet  in  height,  from  which  they 
* descended  with  a crash  like  thunder,  I would  pull  up  abrupt- 


OMANBONDE DISAPPOINTMENT. 


161 


1 y,  and  hold  my  breath  till  all  danger  was  over,  when  a weight 
like  that  of  the  nightmare  fell  from  my  mind.  However,  in 
the  course  of  time,  we  became  tolerably  accustomed  to  the 
hazards  that  beset  us,  and  looked  almost  with  indifference  on 
the  dangers  which  constantly  threatened  destruction  to  our 
conveyances. 

About  noon  on  the  5 th  of  April  we  were  rapidly  approach- 
ing Omanbonde,  but  oh,  how  were  we  disappointed ! My 
heart  beat  violently  with  excitement.  The  sleepy  motion  of 
the  oxen,  as  they  toiled  through  the  heavy  sand,  being  far 
too  slow  for  my  eagerness  and  excited  imagination,  I pro- 
ceeded considerably  in  advance  of  the  wagons,  with  about 
half  a dozen  Damaras,  when  all  at  once  the  country  became 
open,  and  I found  myself  on  some  rising  ground,  gently  sloping 
toward  the  bed  of  what  I thought  to  be  a dry  water-course. 

“ There,”  suddenly  exclaimed  one  of  the  natives — “ there  is 
Omanbonde !” 

“ Omanbonde !”  I echoed,  almost  in  despair ; “ but  where, 
in  the  name  of  heaven,  is  the  water  V9 

I could  say  no  more,  for  my  heart  failed  me,  and  I sat 
down  till  the  wagons  came  up  ; when,  pointing  to  the  dry 
river-bed,  I told  Galton  that  he  saw  the  lake  before  him. 

“ Nonsense !”  he  replied ; “ it  is  only  the  end  or  tail  of  it 
which  you  see  there.” 

After  having  descended  into  the  bed,  we  continued  to  trav- 
el, at  a rapid  pace,  about  a mile  in  a westerly  direction,  when, 
at  a bend,  we  discovered  a large  patch  of  green  reeds.  At 
this  sight  a momentary  ray  of  hope  brightened  up  every  coun- 
tenance ; but  the  next  instant  it  vanished,  for  we  found  that 
the  natives  were  actually  searching  for  water  among  the 
rushes ! 

The  truth  at  last  dawned  upon  us.  We  were  indeed  at 
Omanbonde — the  lake  of  hippopotami!  We  all  felt  utter 
prostration  of  heart.  For  a long  while  we  were  unable  to 
give  utterance  to  our  feelings.  We  first  looked  at  the  reeds 


162 


OMANBONDE  VISITED  BY  HIPPOPOTAMI. 


before  us,,  then  at  each  other  in  mute  dismay  and  astonish- 
ment. A dried-up  vley,  very  little  more  than  a mile  in  ex- 
tent, and  a patch  of  reeds,  was  the  only  reward  for  months 
of  toil  and  anxiety ! 


CHAPTER  XIY. 

Omanbonde  visited  by  Hippopotami. — Vegetation,  &c.,  described. — 
Game  somewhat  scarce. — Combat  between  Elephant  and  Rhinoce- 
ros. — Advance  or  Retreat. — Favorable  reports  of  the  Ovambo-land. 
— Resolve  to  proceed  there. — Reconnoitre  the  Country. — Depart 
from  Omanbonde. — Author  shoots  a Giraffe. — Splendid  Mirage. — 
The  Fan-palm. — The  Guide  absconds. — Commotion  among  the 
Natives. — Arrive  at  Okamabute. — Unsuccessful  Elephant-hunt. — 
Vegetation. — Accident  to  Wagon. — Obliged  to  proceed  on  Ox-back. 
— The  Party  go  astray. — Baboon  Fountain. — Meeting  with  the 
Ovambo  ; their  personal  Appearance,  &c. — Return  to  Encampment. 
— An  Elephant  killed. — Discover  a curious  Plant. — Immorality. 
— Reflections. 

Dry  as  the  basin  of  Omanbonde  then  was,  it  neverthe- 
less appeared  evident  that,  at  no  distant  period,  it  had  con- 
tained a good  deal  of  water.  Moreover,  there  could  be  but 
little  doubt  as  to  hippopotami  having  also,  at  one  time,  ex- 
isted there. 

On  becoming  better  acquainted  with  the  geography  of 
these  regions,  we  thought  we  were  able  to  explain  the  phe- 
nomenon satisfactorily.  Thus,  for  instance,  from  (or  to?) 
the  deep,  trough-shaped  basin  of  Omanbonde  leads  a peculiar 
water-course,  in  an  easterly  direction,  called  Omuramba-* 
k’Omanbonde,  consisting  of  a succession  of  immense  gulleys, 
very  similar  to  Omanbonde  itself.  These  (after  being  in  a 
short  time  joined  by  the  Omuramba-k’Omatako)  we  supposed 
to  be  connected  with  some  large  permanent  water,  abound- 

* Omuramba,  in  the  Damara  language,  signifies  a water-course,  in 
the  bed  of  which  both  grass  and  water  is  to  be  had. 


WELLS VEGETATION GAME. 


168 


ing  with  hippopotami.  In  seasons  when  rains  are  plentiful, 
these  troughs  or  gulleys  fill,  and,  no  doubt,  retain  the  water 
from  one  rainy  period  to  another,  which  enables  the  animals 
to  travel  at  their  ease  to  Omanbonde.  Indeed,  by  similar 
omurambas  they  have  found  their  way  even  as  far  south  as 
Schmelen’s  Hope.  According  to  Jonker  Afrikaner’s  account, 
a hippopotamus  had  taken  up  its  abode  at  this  place,  but  was 
at  last  killed  by  a sudden  inundation  of  the  Swakop.  The 
carcass  was  washed  up  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tjobis,  where  he 
saw  its  remains. 

On  a first  look  at  Damara-land,  an  inexperienced  person 
would  “ as  soon  expect,”  as  Mr.  Galton  says,  “ a hippopota- 
mus to  have  traveled  across  the  great  Sahara  as  from  Oman- 
bonde to  Tjobis.”  The  fact,  however,  is,  that  this  country, 
after  heavy  rains,  differs  as  much  from  its  normal  state  as  a 
sea-beach  when  dry  and  when  at  spring-tide. 

Little  or  no  rain  had  fallen  this  year  at  Omanbonde,  and, 
consequently,  it  presented  a very  dreary  and  uninteresting 
appearance.  In  its  bed,  however,  we  discovered  several 
wells,  which,  together  with  numerous  remains  of  Damara 
villages,  clearly  indicated  that  the  so-called  lake  was,  at 
times,  largely  resorted  to  by  the  natives. 

The  vegetation  remained  precisely  as  hitherto,  but  the 
thorn  coppices  were,  if  possible,  thicker  and  more  harassing. 
The  monotony  of  the  scene  was  somewhat  relieved  by  clumps 
of  very  fine  kameel  thorn-trees. 

Game  was  rather  scarce,  yet  I managed  to  bag  a few  red 
bucks  (pallahsj  and  koodoos.  Tracks  of  giraffes,  rhinoce- 
roses, and  elephants  were  by  no  means  uncommon,  but  I 
never  had  the  good  fortune  to  fall  in  with  any  of  these  ani- 
mals. 

Furious  battles  are  said  to  take  place  occasionally  between 
the  two  last-named ; and  though,  of  course,  strength  in  the 
elephant  is  infinitely  superior  to  the  rhinoceros,  the  latter, 
on  account  of  his  swiftness  and  sudden  movements,  is  by  no 


164 


TO  RETURN  OR  GO  FORWARD  ? 


means  a despicable  antagonist.  Indeed,  instances  are  known 
where  they  have  perished  together.  At  Omanbonde,  we 
were  told  that  a combat  of  this  kind  occurred  not  long  before 
our  arrival.  A rhinoceros,  having  encountered  an  elephant, 
made  a furious  dash  at  him,  striking  his  long  sharp  horn  into 
the  belly  of  his  antagonist  with  such  force  as  to  be  unable  to 
extricate  himself,  and  in  his  fall  the  elephant  crushed  his 
assailant  to  death. 

In  sauntering  one  day  about  the  neighborhood  of  Oman- 
bonde, Oalton  suddenly  found  himself  confronted  by  a lion, 
which  seems  terribly  to  have  terrified  him  ; and  he  candidly 
tells  us  that,  being  only  armed  with  a small  rifle,  he  would 
“much  rather  have  viewed  him  at  a telescopic  distance.” 

As  soon  as  we  had  somewhat  recovered  from  our  bitter 
disappointment,  we  began  seriously  to  consider  our  situation, 
and  to  consult  on  our  future  plans.  Once  more  we  were 
without  a definite  object.  Should  we  return,  or  push  boldly 
forward?  At  one  time  my  friend  entertained  thoughts  of 
going  no  farther ; in  which  case,  though  it  was  probable  we 
might  reach  home  in  safety,  it  was  very  certain  we  should 
reap  but  little  credit  for  what  had  been  done.  On  the  other 
hand,  by  continuing  to  travel  northward,  we  exposed  our- 
selves to  much  risk  and  danger.  From  experience,  we  were 
aware  that,  to  accomplish  even  a comparatively  short  distance 
in  our  very  slow  mode  of  traveling,  months  would  elapse. 
In  that  time,  all  the  pools  and  vleys  which  now  contained 
water  would  probably  be  dried  up.  This  would  be  certain 
destruction  to  ourselves  and  cattle.  Besides  this,  our  men 
were  disheartened,  and  wished  to  return.  However,  in  that 
respect  there  would  be  less  difficulty,  as  they  were  now  near- 
ly as  much  dependent  on  us  as  we  on  them,  inasmuch  as  a 
broad  tract  of  wild,  inhospitable  country  separated  us  from 
the  nearest  point  of  civilization. 

From  Jonker  Afrikaner  and  various  other  sources  of  in- 
formation, we  had  already  learned  that  at  a considerable 


THE  OVAMBO AN  EXPLORATION. 


165 


distance  to  the  north  there  lived  a nation  called  Ovambo, 
who  had  much  intercourse  with  the  Damaras,  with  whom 
they  bartered  cattle  for  iron-ware.  They  were  a people, 
moreover,  of  agricultural  habits,  having  permanent  dwell- 
ings, and  were  reported  to  be  industrious  and  strictly  honest. 
The  Damaras  spoke  in  raptures  of  their  hospitality  and 
friendliness  toward  strangers,  and  represented  them  as  a very 
numerous  and  powerful  nation,  ruled  by  a single  chief  or 
king  named  Nangoro,  who,  to  their  notions,  was  a perfect 
giant  in  size.  With  regard  to  the  distance  to  this  country, 
they  gave  us  the  same  wild,  conflicting,  and  unsatisfactory 
accounts  as  those  we  received  about  the  position  of  Oman- 
bonde.  A variety  of  circumstances  at  last  induced  us,  let 
the  consequence  be  whatever  it  might,  to  attempt  to  reach 
this  interesting  land. 

As,  however,  no  reliance  could  possibly  be  placed  on  the 
accounts  of  the  natives  with  regard  to  water,  character  of 
the  country,  and  so  forth,  it  was  deemed  advisable,  be- 
fore moving  from  our  present  encampment,  to  make  a short 
exploratory  excursion  in  order  to  see  and  judge  for  our- 
selves. 

Mr.  Galton,  accompanied  by  a few  of  the  men,  therefore 
rode  northward,  in  order  to  ascertain  if  the  route  we  pur- 
posed taking  was  traversable  with  wagons.  On  the  evening 
of  the  third  day  he  returned,  being  assured  of  its  practicabil- 
ity. He  had  met  with  several  native  villages,  and,  though 
his  reception  there  had  by  no  means  been  very  flattering,  we 
determined  to  proceed' without  a moment’s  delay. 

None  of  the  Damaras  whom  we  had  brought  with  us  from 
Barmen  professed  to  know  any  thing  of  the  country  we  were 
about  to  explore.  The  guide,  however,  whom  we  had  pro- 
cured a short  distance  south  of  Omanbonde,  said  that  he  was 
well  acquainted  with  it,  and  volunteered  to  show  us  the  way 
to  the  Ovambo  provided  his  services  should  be  rewarded 
with  a cow-calf.  Mr.  Galton  gladly  agreed  to  his  terms, 


166 


CAMELOPARDS PALM-TREES. 


but,  unfortunately,  as  the  event  proved,  paid  him  his  wages 
in  advance. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  12th  of  April  we  bade  fare- 
well to  the  inhospitable  shores  of  Omanbonde.  For  a few 
hours  we  kept  parallel  with  the  Omuramba,  when  we  struck 
into  a more  easterly  course. 

During  the  day  we  saw  vast  troops  of  camelopards,  and 
just  at  nightfall  I had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  a fine,  full- 
grown  male,  which  was  an  acceptable  addition  to  our  lar- 
der. Before  the  carcass  had  time  to  cool,  twenty  or  thirty 
men  were  busy  in  tearing  it  to  pieces.  As  usual  on  such  oc- 
casions, the  Damaras  dispensed  with  sleep,  and  devoted  the 
night  entirely  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  banquet. 

The  next  morning  we  witnessed  a magnificent  mirage. 
Lakes,  forests,  hills,  &c.,  burst  on  the  eye  and  disappeared  in 
rapid  succession. 

Later  in  the  day  we  were  gratified  by  the  sight  of  a large 
number  of  palm-trees.  This  harbinger  of  a better  land  was 
an  agreeable  surprise,  bringing  an  involuntary  smile  of  sat- 
isfaction to  every  face.  We  were  astonished  at  the  cheerful 
and  refreshing  effect  a very  slight  improvement  in  the  land- 
scape had  on  our  spirits.  In  the  distance  these  palms  seem- 
ed to  us  to  form  an  extensive  and  compact  wood,  but  on 
nearer  approach  we  found  the  trees  grew  at  long  intervals 
from  each  other.  They  were  very  tall  and  graceful,  each 
branch  having  the  appearance  of* a beautiful  fan,  and,  when 
gently  waved  by  the  wind,  the  effect  produced  was  indescrib- 
ably pleasing. 

This  species  of  palm  is,  I believe,  new  to  science.*  It  pro- 
duces fruit  about  the  size  of  an  apple,  of  a deep  brown  color, 
with  a kernel  as  hard  as  a stone,  and  not  unlike  vegetable 
ivory.  The  fruit  is  said  to  have  a bitter  taste,  but  farther 

* On  his  return  to  England  Mr.  Galton  presented  the  Kew  Gardens 
with  specimens  of  the  fruit,  but  I am  told  that  every  effort  to  raise 
plants  from  it  proved  abortive. 


FAN-PALM. 


167 


FAN-PALM.* 


north  (where,  as  will  be  presently  seen,  we  found  the  tree 
very  plentiful)  it  was  very  palatable.  On  account  of  the 
great  height  and  straightness  of  the  trunk,  the  fruit  was  very 

* The  beautiful  drawing  from  which  the  above  wood-cut  is  taken 
was  kindly  placed  at  my  disposal  by  my  esteemed  and  accomplished 
friend  Major  Garden.  It  represents  the  species  of  fan-palm  or  vege- 
table ivory-palm  found  about  Natal,  and  seems  in  general  appearance 
to  correspond  with  the  kind  observed  by  ourselves.  In  size,  however, 
it  is  very  inferior,  for,  according  to  the  major’s  estimate,  it  does  not 
much  exceed  fifteen  feet  in  height,  while  the  tree  of  the  parts  of 
which  I am  now  speaking  not  unfrequently  attains  to  the  altitude  of 
from  thirty  to  fifty  feet,  and  even  more. 


168 


THE  GUIDE  ABSCONDS A COMMOTION. 


difficult  of  access.  The  story  our  guide  told  us  previously  to 
leaving  Barmen  about  a tree,  the  fruit  of  which  was  obtain- 
able only  by  means  of  “ knob-kieries  thrown  up  at  it,”  was 
now  easily  comprehended.  But  we  experienced  greater  diffi- 
culty in  realizing  his  other  tales,  such  as  the  existence  of  a 
people  who  make  trees  their  sole  dwellings,  while  others 
were  found  without  joints  to  their  limbs,  who  nevertheless 
were  able  to  indulge  in  the  refined  custom  of  feeding  each 
other  by  means  of  their  toes. 

In  the  afternoon  of  this  day  we  reached  a Damara  village 
which  had  already  been  visited  by  Mr.  Galton,  and  camped 
near  to  it.  Previously  to  our  arrival  here  our  guide  abscond- 
ed, taking  with  him,  besides  the  calf  my  friend  had  given 
him  as  payment,  a horse-rug  which  he  had  borrowed  from 
Timbo. 

The  next  morning,  just  as  I was  returning  to  the  village 
from  a successful  hunt.  I observed  an  unusual  commotion 
among  the  natives,  accompanied  by  the  most  terrific  yelling, 
passionate  vociferations,  and  brandishing  of  assegais.  The 
cause  of  this  uproar  was  at  first  thought  to  be  an  attack  by 
the  Bushmen  on  one  of  the  cattle-posts  of  the  Damaras. 
However,  on  investigating  the  matter  more  closely,  we  ascer- 
tained that  the  apprehensions  of  the  Damaras  arose  from  the 
arrival  of  some  inhabitants  of  a neighboring  kraal,  who  had 
come  forcibly  to  recover  a flock  of  sheep  which  the  chief  had 
taken  possession  of  under  the  pretext  of  “ hunger.” 

The  news  of  our  arrival  had  by  this  time  spread  far  and 
wide,  and  the  Damaras  were  flocking  together  from  all  parts 
to  see  the  white  strangers.  Some  of  them  promised  to  con- 
duct us  to  their  great  chief  Tjopopa,  who  resided  at  a place 
called  Okamabuti,  which  was  on  our  way  to  the  Ovambo. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  to  Tjopopa  I learned  the 
history  of  the  father  of  one  of  our  visitors,  who,  it  would  ap- 
pear, had  been  a thorough  rogue.  He  professed  great  friend- 
ship toward  the  Ovambo,  whom  he  allowed  freely  and  peace- 


ARRIVAL  AT  TJOPOPA’s  WERFT OKAMABUTI.  169 

ably  to  pass  through  his  territory  ; but  when,  on  one  occa- 
sion, they  were  returning  home  with  a numerous  herd  of 
cattle  obtained  by  barter,  he  fell  suddenly  upon  them,  and 
deprived  them  of  all  their  hard-earned  gains.  When,  how- 
ever, his  treacherous  conduct  became  known  to  Nangoro,  he 
instantly  dispatched  a party  in  order  to  punish  him,  and  this 
was  done  so  effectually  that,  since  that  day,  no  one  lias  ven- 
tured to  molest  the  Ovambo  in  their  peaceable  and  industri- 
ous vocation.  Indeed,  this  tribe  now  commanded  a large 
share  of  the  good-will  and  respect  of  the  Damaras. 

Elephants  were  said  to  be  numerous  to  the  northward, 
and  the  Damaras  pointed  to  some  wooded  knolls,  where  they 
said  these  animals  walked  “ as  thick  as  cattle.”  At  times 
they  would  suddenly  make  their  appearance  in  the  night  in 
the  midst  of  a village,  and  drive  the  inhabitants  precipi- 
tately from  their  dwellings. 

On  the  15th  of  April  we  were  again  moving,  and  the 
very  next  day  we  entirely  lost  sight  of  the  palms,  which  we 
did  not  again  see  till  nearly  a whole  month’s  travel  had  been 
accomplished. 

On  the  17th  we  reached  Tjopopa’s  werft.  It  was  re- 
ported that  through  the  instrumentality  of  his  friend  Nan- 
goro this  man  became  a chief  of  the  first  order.  Be  that 
as  it  may,  he  was  now  living  in  very  great  abundance, 
though,  like  many  who  are  well  off  with  regard  to  worldly 
possessions,  he  was  avaricious  in  the  extreme.  A miser’s 
parsimony  always  increases  in  proportion  to  the  enlargement 
of  his  property. 

Okamabuti  may  be  said  to  be  the  northern  limit  of  Da- 
mara-land.  It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  those  wooded  knolls 
already  pointed  out  to  us  by  the  natives  as  the  resort  of  ele- 
phants; indeed,  the  ground  round  about  bore  ample  testi- 
mony to  the  destructive  propensities  of  these  animals.  The 
place  was  well  supplied  with  water  by  a fountain  springing 
from  a limestone  bottom. 


H 


170  UNSUCCESSFUL  ELEPHANT-HUNT A CALAMITY. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  at  Okamabuti,  we  started 
off  on  a shooting  excursion,  in  a northeast  direction,  in  search 
of  elephants ; but,  though  we  discovered  their  fresh  tracks, 
and  followed  these  for  a whole  day,  we  were  unable  to  over- 
take the  beasts.  Notwithstanding  our  failure,  we  enjoyed 
the  trip  extremely.  The  scenery  was  novel  and  highly  in- 
teresting. At  times  we  crossed  savannas  where  the  grass 
reached  above  our  heads  as  we  sat  on  the  oxen,  and  at 
others  we  passed  through  magnificent  forests  of  straight- 
stemmed and  dark-foliaged  timber-trees,*  fit  abodes  for  the 
most  wonderful  creatures  of  animated  nature. 

A day  or  two  afterward  a calamity  befell  us  which  we 
had  long  dreaded.  In  order  to  be  near  the  elephants,  that 
we  might  hunt  them  at  our  leisure,  we  had  determined  to 
move  our  camp  to  a fountain  a few  hours  further  to  the 
northeast,  that  was  much  frequented  by  these  animals.  On 
the  morning  of  our  departure,  however,  before  we  had  pro- 
ceeded many  hundred  paces,  our  largest  wagon  came  in  con- 
tact with  a stump  of  a tree,  which  entirely  demolished  the 
foremost  axle-tree.  Unfortunate  as  this  circumstance  could 
not  fail  to  be,  we  had,  nevertheless,  every  reason  to  feel 
thankful  it  occurred  where  it  did.  The  natives  hereabout 
had  shown  themselves  well  disposed  toward  us.  Water  and 
pasturage  were  abundant ; and  even  suitable  wood  for  re- 
pairing the  damage  was  to  be  found  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood. 

* These  trees  consisted  chiefly  of  what  in  the  Cape  Colony  is  term- 
ed Stink-houty  or  stink-wood.  It  derives  its  peculiar  name  from  an 
offensive  odor  that  it  exhales,  and  which  it  retains  until  thoroughly 
seasoned.  In  the  grain  and  the  shading  it  somewhat  resembles  wal- 
nut, but  in  external  appearance  approaches  the  oak.  Indeed,  if  I am 
not  mistaken,  botanists  have  described  it  as  quercus  Africana , in  which 
case  I believe  it  to  be  the  only  species  of  that  kind  known  to  be  in- 
digenous to  the  African  continent.  I am  told  it  is  by  far  the  best  wood 
in  Southern  Africa,  and  seems  well  adapted  for  various  purposes,  such 
as  wagons,  gunstocks,  ship-building,  &c. 


WAGONS  LEFT  BEHIND A GUIDE. 


171 


A few  days  would,  perhaps,  have  sufficed  to  make  a tem- 
porary repair ; but,  as  we  had  a journey  of  several  months’ 
duration  before  us,  it  was  necessary  to  make  the  work  as 
permanent  as  possible,  and  the  seasoning  of  the  wood  alone, 
in  such  a case,  would  occupy  several  weeks.  None  of  us  had 
much  experience  in  carpentry;  but  Hans  was  by  far  the 
most  practical  hand,  and  he  boldly  undertook  the  task.  To 
postpone  our  journey  to  the  Ovambo  till  our  wagons  were 
in  order  was  now,  indeed,  out  of  the  question.  The  season 
being  advanced,  every  day  became  of  the  greatest  importance ; 
and  therefore,  to  save  time,  it  was  resolved  that  we  should 
leave  the  vehicles  behind,  and  that  Gallon  and  myself  should 
prosecute  the  journey  without  farther  delay  by  means  of 
pack-and-ride  oxen. 

Having  come  to  this  determination,  our  first  care  was  to 
obtain  accurate  information  of  the  distance,  number  of  water- 
ing-places, and  so  forth ; but  the  Damaras  proved  true  to 
their  nature ; for,  after  having  spent  several  days  in  cross- 
questioning them,  we  were  just  as  far  from  our  object  as 
ever.  Tjopopa  himself  was  very  reserved,  and  would  neither 
provide  us  with  guides  nor  give  us  the  least  information. 
He  said,  however,  that  he  was  just  expecting  a trading  cara- 
van from  Ovambo-land,  and  that,  if  we  remained  with  him 
till  its  arrival,  he  doubted  not  that  we  should,  by  the  assist- 
ance of  the  individuals  composing  it,  be  enabled  to  reach  that 
country.  But  no  reliance  could  be  placed  in  a Damara. 

While  in  this  dilemma,  a man  unexpectedly  came  to  offer 
his  services  as  guide;  Without,  perhaps,  inquiring  sufficient- 
ly as  to  whether  he  was  well  acquainted  with  the  road,  we 
accepted  with  eagerness  the  proposal,  and  did  not  lose  a mo- 
ment in  making  preparations  for  the  journey.  To  shorten  a 
long  story,  suffice  it  to  say  that  we  set  out;  but  our  guide 
almost  immediately  lost  himself ; and  after  we  had  wandered 
about  the  hills  for  several  days,  suffering  the  greatest  anxiety 
of  mind,  to  say  nothing  of  physical  privations,  we  were  about 


172  BABOON  FOUNTAIN— MEETING  WITH  THE  OVAMBO. 

to  retrace  our  steps  to  Okamabuti,  when  we  fortunately  fell 
in  with  some  Bushmen.  We  had  left  both  our  Hottentot  in- 
terpreters behind,  but  we  managed  to  explain  to  them  our 
wants  and  wishes.  With  much  persuasion,  two  of  them 
agreed  to  accompany  us  to  a certain  large  water  in  advance, 
of  which  the  Damaras  had  made  repeated  mention.  These 
men  desired  to  spend  the  night  at  their  own  werft ; but  we 
had  been  so  often  deceived,  that,  in  order  to  secure  their  serv- 
ices, we  determined  that  only  one  of  them  should  be  allowed 
to  absent  himself.  The  other  was  to  sleep  near  us  ; and,  as 
a further  security,  Galton  and  myself  agreed  alternately  to 
keep  watch  on  the  fellow  through  the  night. 

During  our  wanderings  in  the  mountains  we  stumbled 
upon  a series  of  wells  which  we  christened  “ Baboon  Fount- 
ain,1” on  account  of  the  number  of  baboons  which  frequented 
the  place.  Its  real  name  was  Otjikango. 

It  was  from  this  point  that  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  of 
May  we  took  our  fresh  departure  under  the  guidance  of  our 
Bushmen  friends.  We  had  not,  however,  been  long  on  the 
road  before  we  were  overtaken  by  three  or  four  men  whom 
our  Damaras  at  once  recognized  as  natives  of  Ovambo-land, 
coming  from  the  very  quarter  we  had  just  left.  They  were 
part  of  the  expected  caravan,  and  I need  hardly  say  that  we 
were  delighted  at  this  opportune  meeting.  Contrary  to  cus- 
tom, the  men  had  made  a short  cut  across  the  hills,  and  thus 
we  had  missed  each  other.  On  the  Ovambos  reaching  our 
encampment,  however,  and  finding  strange  tracks,  and  our 
bivouac  fire  still  burning,  their  curiosity  was  greatly  aroused, 
and  they  had  detached  the  men  whom  we  now  encountered 
in  order  to  bring  us  back.  We  did  not  much  like  the  idea; 
yet,  in  hope  of  obtaining  from  them  a guide,  we  acquiesced, 
intending  presently  to  pursue  our  journey. 

The  caravan  was  composed  of  twenty-three  individuals, 
of  a very  dark  complexion,  tall  and  robust,  but  remarkably 
ugly>  and  scantily  attired.  Their  looks  bespoke  determina- 


MEETING  WITH  THE  OVAMBO DIET. 


173 


lion  and  independence.  On  acquainting  them  with  our  ol> 
ject,  and  our  wish  to  obtain  a guide  to  conduct  us  to  their 
country,  they  not  only  refused,  but  became  very  reserved  in 
their  manner.  They  promised,  however,  that  if  we  would 
return  with  them  to  Tjopopa’s  werft,  and  there  wait  until 
they  had  disposed  of  their  articles  of  exchange,  we  were  wel- 
come to  accompany  them  home.  They  assured  us,  moreover, 
that  any  attempt  on  our  part  to  accomplish  the  journey  alone 
would  be  attended  with  certain  destruction ; for,  even  sup- 
posing we  should  find  the  waters — which  were  few  and  far 
between — their  chief,  unless  previously  apprised  of  our  ap- 
proach, would  never  receive  us.  We  thought  their  language 
bold,  and  at  first  laughed  at  them ; but  they  remained  in- 
flexible. Remonstrances  were  of  no  avail,  and  we  soon  saw 
that  they  were  a very  different  style  of  natives  from  those 
with  whom  we  had  been  accustomed  to  deal.  Moreover,  on 
mature  consideration,  we  thought  it  only  just  that  they  should 
know  something  of  our  character  before  taking  us  into  the 
heart  of  the  country.  We  accordingly  made  necessity  a law, 
and  agreed  to  their  proposal.  No  sooner  had  we  done  so 
than  they  threw  off  their  reserve,  and  in  a very  short  time 
we  became  the  best  of  friends. 

Mr.  Galton  made  them  a present  of  some  meat,  which  they 
greatly  prized.  Their  sole  diet,  on  these  occasions,  was  ap- 
parently a kind  of  grain  resembling  Caffre-corn  ( holcus  Caffro- 
rum\  which  they  carried  in  small  skin-bags.  This  grain  was 
either  half  boiled,  simply  steeped  in  water,  or,  more  common- 
ly, partially  crushed,  and  then  converted  into  a coarse  stir- 
about. They  kindly  gave  us  a liberal  supply  of  their  homely 
fare,  which  we  eagerly  partook  of,  being  quite  tired  with  the 
everlasting  flesh-diet.  Our  Damaras  were  also  treated  with 
a dish  of  soaked  corn ; but,  before  they  were  allowed  to  taste 
it,  they  were  obliged  to  undergo  the  ceremony  (why  or  where- 
fore I know  not)  of  having  a quantity  of  water  spirted  into 
their  faces  from  the  mouth  of  one  of  the  Qvambo.  These 


174 


THEIR  HABITS THEIR  ARMS. 


people  invariably  made  use  of  salt  with  their  food,  a thing 

never  seen  among  the  Damaras. 
As  soon  as  their  plain  meal  was 
finished,  pipes — of  their  own  man- 
ufacture—were  produced,  and,  aft- 
er a few  whiffs,  a song  was  struck 
up.  One  man  began  to  chant,  and  the  whole  party  joined 
occasionally  in  chorus.  Though  somewhat  monotonous,  the 
music  was  not  unpleasing. 

They  were  armed  with  bow  and  arrows,  the  assegai  and 
the  knob  kierie ; but  the  two  first-named  weapons  were  of 
smaller  dimensions  than  those  used  by  the  Damaras.  Their 
bows,  moreover,  were  constructed  from  a kind  of  wood  called 
mohama,  which,  in  its  natural  state,  is  flat  on  one  side,  and 
thus,  in  a degree,  of  the  required  form. 

The  arrows  are  generally  tipped  with  bone  or  iron;  but 
they  do  not  often  poison  them.  They  carry  their  quivers 
under  the  left  arm  by  means  of  a strap  across  the  right 
shoulder.  In  addition  to  the  weapons  mentioned,  they  have 
a dagger,  protected  by  a leather  sheath  tastefully  ornamented 
with  thin  copper  wire. 


PIPE. 


their  possession. 


HATCHET. 


BASKET RETURN  TO  CAMP. 


175 


Their  articles  of  barter  were  spear-heads,  knives,  rings,  cop- 
per and  iron  beads,  &c.,  but  of  exceedingly  rude  workmanship. 
Indeed,  it  was  to  me  a constant  wonder  how  they  could  per- 
suade their  neighbors  to  buy  such  trash.  Yet  all  these  things 
were  very  dear;  an  unfinished  assegai-blade  or  a yard  of 
beads  being  the  regular  price  for  an  ox. 

Their  merchandise  was  packed  in  small  square  baskets 
made  out  of  palm -leaves : these  were  suspended  to 
both  ends  of  the  long,  smooth,  and  elastic  pole  (of 
palm  wood)  that  each  man  bore  poised  on  his 
shoulder.  What  with  their  merchandise,  provis- 
ions, water,  &c.,  the  weight  was  often  very  con- 
siderable,  yet  they  traveled  much  faster  than  our-  merchandise. 
selves. 

They  have  no  idea  of  making  use  of  oxen  for  draft,  or, 
perhaps  it  would  be  more  correct  to  say,  they  value  these 
animals  too  highly  to  make  use  of  them  for  such  purposes. 

On  the  4th  of  May  we  returned  to  our  encampment.  Hans 
and  Phillippus  had  killed  an  elephant  during  our  absence, 
which  highly  delighted  the  Damaras,  who  had  flocked  to  the 
neighborhood  of  Okamabuti  in  very  great  numbers.  We  were 
sorry  to  find  that  our  cattle,  instead  of  improving  in  condi- 
tion by  their  rest,  were  fast  losing  flesh.  This  was  attribu- 
ted to  the  grass  hereabout,  which  was  bitter  tasted,  and  to 
change  of  pasturage  in  general.  The  cattle  of  the  natives 
were  accustomed  to  every  variety  of  herbage,  and  did  not  suf- 
fer. Sheep,  however,  failed  to  thrive  here. 

While  waiting  for  the  return  of  the  Ovambo  traders,  who, 
with  the  exception  of  their  head  man,  Chikor’onkombe,  had 
now  dispersed  over  the  neighborhood  in  small  bands  of  two 
and  three,  I employed  the  time  in  diligently  exploring  the 
surrounding  country  and  ascertaining  its  natural  productions, 
and  was  fortunate  enough  to  add  many  an  interesting  speci- 
men of  insect  and  bird  to  my  collection. 

The  natives  were  unable  to  comprehend  why  I thus  col- 


176  A CURIOUS  PLANT DAMARAS  LOVE  TOBACCO. 

lected  birds  and  other  specimens  of  natural  history,  and  on 
an  evening,  when  I returned  home,  were  convulsed  with 
laughter  on  seeing  the  contents  of  my  game-bag.  This  pas- 
sion of  mine  (coupled  with  my  name  being  unpronounceable) 
caused  them  to  rechristen  me  “ Karabontera,”  or  the  bird- 
killer,  by  which  designation  I am  now  universally  known 
throughout  the  country. 

The  vegetation  at  Okamabuti  was  very  rank  and  luxuriant, 
but  the  thorn-jungles  still  continued  to  haunt  us.  The  hills 
were  covered  with  a profusion  of  creepers,  low  shrubs,  and 
aromatic  herbs.  The  euphorbia  candelabrum  was  particularly 
abundant. 

I discovered  a peculiar  plant  growing  on  a very  large 
succulent  root,  protruding  about  a foot  above  the  soil.  It 
produced  two  or  three  immense  leaves,  with  a fruit  so  closely 
resembling  grapes  that,  when  I first  brought  some  bunches 
to  our  encampment,  they  were  mistaken  for  such ; but  they 
were  not  eatable — nay,  the  natives  pronounced  them  to  be 
poisonous. 

There  was  also  a tree,  yielding  an  acid  fruit  somewhat 
like  an  apple,  but  with  a hard  kernel  similar  to  that  of  a 
plum.  In  hot  weather  this  fruit  was  very  refreshing,  and 
not  unpalatable. 

During  our  stay  at  Okamabuti,  Tjopopa’s  aged  mother 
died.  The  women  of  the  place,  according  to  custom,  howled 
most  dismally  for  a whole  day.  Great  numbers  of  cattle 
were  killed  or  sacrificed  on  this  occasion. 

Tjopopa  would  spend  whole  days  at  our  camp  in  the  most 
absolute  idleness  and  apathy,  teasing  us  with  begging  for 
every  thing  he  saw.  Like  all  Damaras,  he  had  a perfect 
mania  for  tobacco,  and  considered  no  degradation  too  deep 
provided  he  could  obtain  a few  inches  of  the  narcotic  weed. 
He  was  of  an  easy  and  mild  disposition,  but  excessively 
stingy.  We  stood  greatly  in  need  of  live-stock,  and  took 
every  opportunity  to  display  our  most  tempting  articles  of 


IMMORALITY. 


177 


barter  in  the  hope  of  inducing  him  to  purchase.  Brass  or 
gilt  ornaments  he  almost  spurned,  but  cast  longing  eyes  on 
articles  of  iron  or  copper.  At  last  he  selected  goods  to  the 
value  of  four  oxen,  with  which  he  quietly  walked  off.  On 
asking  him  for  payment  the  following  day,  he  smilingly  re- 
plied, “Why,  between  us  there  must  be  no  talk  of  buying 
and  selling.  You  are  going  to  stop  here  a long  time,  and 
you  want  plenty  of  food : this  I will  give  you.” 

Knowing  the  truth  of  the  adage  that  “ a bird  in  the  hand 
is  worth  two  in  the  bush,”  we  should  infinitely  have  preferred 
an  immediate  settlement  to  any  vague  promises.  And  the 
end  justified  our  apprehensions.  The  old  rogue  took  good 
care  neither  to  pay  his  debt,  nor  make  us  any  presents  of 
cattle,  of  which  we  stood  so  much  in  need.  Nay,  he  even 
went  further.  Under  pretext  of  supplying  our  wants,  he  in- 
duced his  people  to  contribute  oxen  and  sheep,  which  he  was 
mean  enough  to  keep  for  his  own  use. 

Our  friend  Tjopopa  was  rather  a sensual  man:  he  was 
supposed  to  have  no  less  than  twenty  wives,  two  of  whom  I 
found,  to  my  astonishment,  were  mother  and  daughter!  I 
have  since  ascertained  that  this  is  by  no  means  an  unusual 
practice  among  this  demoralized  nation.  Moreover,  when  a 
chief  dies,  his  surviving  wives  are  transferred  to  his  brother 
or  to  his  nearest  relation. 

It  is  in  vain  that  poets  and  philanthropists  endeavor  to 
persuade  us  that  savage  nations  who  have  had  no  previous 
intercourse  with  Europeans  are  living  in  a state  of  the  most 
enviable  happiness  and  purity,  where  ignorance  is  virtuous 
simplicity ; poverty,  frugality  and  temperance ; and  indolence, 
laudable  contempt  for  wealth.  One  single  day  among  such 
people  will  be  sufficient  to  repudiate  these  idle  notions. 

H 2 


178  DEPART  FROM  OKAMABUTI VISIT  FROM  A LION 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Depart  from  Okamabuti. — Visit  from  a Lion. — Amulets.  — Revisit 
Baboon  Fountain.. — Otjikoto;  a wonderful  Freak  of  Nature;  Re- 
markable Cavern. — Natives  unacquainted  with  the  Art  of  Swim- 
ming.— Fish  abundant  in  Otjikoto ; frequented  by  immense  Flocks 
of  Doves. — Panic  of  theOvambo  on  seeing  Birds  shot  on  the.  Wing. 
— Arrive  at  Omutjamatunda.  — A greasy  Welcome.  — Ducks  and 
Grouse  numerous. — Author  finds  himself  somewhat  “ overdone.”— 
“ Salt-pans.”— All  “look  Blue.” — A second  Paradise. — Hospitable 
Reception. — Vegetation. — People  live  in  Patriarchal  Style. — Popu- 
lation.— Enormous  Hogs. — Arrive  at  the  Residence  of  the  redoubt- 
able Nangoro. 

In  conversation  with  the  Ovambo,  we  learned  that  Nan- 
goro’s  werft  was  distant  at  least  a fortnight’s  steady  travel. 
We  therefore  felt  anxious  for  the  speedy  return  of  the  trad- 
ing parties,  in  order  that  we  might  prosecute  or  journey;  but 
they  tarried  longer  than  we  had  expected.  By  degrees,  how- 
ever,  they  reassembled  at  Tjopopa’s  werft,  having  brought 
about  two  hundred  head  of  cattle,  the  result  of  their  trade. 

On  the  2 2d  of  May  Chikor’onkombe,  their  leader,  an- 
nounced that  every  thing  was  in  readiness  for  a start ; and, 
as  we  ourselves  had  long  been  prepared,  the  caravan  set  out 
that  very  afternoon. 

We  bivouacked  at  one  of  Tjopopa’s  cattle-posts,  only  a 
few  hours’  journey  from  Okamabuti,  and  had  just  finished 
dinner,  when  all  at  once  our  people  rushed  toward  the  fire 
with  cries  of  “ Ongeama ! ongeama !” 

And  so  it  was.  A lion  had,  it  seems,  been  crouched  in 
the  bush  within  twenty  paces  of  our  camp,  in  readiness  to 
spring  on  the  cattle  that  were  scattered  about ; but  as  one 
of  the  men  who  was  in  search  of  fuel  had  fortunately  discov- 
ered him,  the  beast  retreated.  He  was  evidently  much  dis- 


AMULETS LARGE  CARAVAN. 


179 


pleased  at  being  thus  foiled,  and  kept  growling  in  the  dis- 
tance during  the  remainder  of  the  night.  The  following 
morning,  on  meeting  one  of  the  Ovambo,  I inquired  whether 
they  also  had  been  troubled  by  the  lion,  to  which  he  only  re- 
plied by  pointing  to  a piece  of  wood — a charm  of  some  kind — 
hung  round  his  neck,  as  much  as  to  say,  “ Do  you  think  that 
any  thing  can  hurt  us  or  our  cattle,  with  this  in  our  pos- 
session V9 

The  Damaras  have  also  great  faith  in  amulets,  consisting 
generally  of  the  teeth  of  lions  and  hyaenas,  entrails  of  ani- 
mals, pieces  of  certain  kinds  of  wood,  and  so  forth.  Our  na- 
tive servants,  indeed,  before  leaving  Okamabuti,  had  pur- 
chased, for  a few  iron  beads,  several  charms  from  Tjopopa's 
favorite  wife,  and,  thus  provided,  conceived  themselves  proof 
against  every  danger  and  calamity. 

On  the  24th  we  again  found  ourselves  at  Otjikango  (u  Bab- 
oon Fountain”).  By  this  time  our  caravan  was  completed, 
as  straggling  parties  of  natives  had  continued  to  join  us ; and 
we  found  to  our  astonishment  that,  including  ourselves,  we 
mustered  one  hundred  and  seventy  souls.  Of  this  number 
were  no  less  than  seventy  or  eighty  Damara  women,  bent  on 
various  speculations — some  in  hope  of  obtaining  employment, 
some  to  get  husbands,  and  others  with  a view  of  disposing  of 
their  shell  bodices,  spoken  of  in  chapter  four.  The  latter, 
as  we  afterward  found,  are  taken  to  pieces  by  the  Ovambo 
women,  and  worn  in  strings  round  the  waist.  In  exchange, 
the  Damaras  receive  beads,  tobacco,  corn,  &c. 

The  country  between  Okamabuti  and  Otjikango  we  found 
well  watered  with  copious  springs,  and  covered  with  a rank 
vegetation.  Otjikango  itself,  being  situated  in  a valley  be- 
tween high  and  steep  hills,  was  not  unpicturesque.  It  was 
well  supplied  with  water,  which  in  several  places  oozed  out 
of  a kind  of  vley  or  marsh — in  the  rainy  season  undoubtedly 
a little  lake.  We  lost  no  time  here,  but  were  again  on  the 
move  at  an  early  hour  on  the  succeeding  morning. 


180 


OTJIKOTO  FOUNTAIN. 


After  a day  and  a half  travel  we  suddenly  found  ourselves 
on  the  brink  of  Otjikoto,  the  most  extraordinary  chasm  it 
was  ever  my  fortune  to  see.  It  is  scooped,  so  to  say,  out  of 
the  solid  limestone  rock,  and,  though  on  a thousand  times 
larger  scale,  not  unlike  the  Elv-gryta  one  so  commonly  meets 
in  Scandinavia.  The  form  of  Otjikoto  is  cylindrical ; its  di- 
ameter upward  of  four  hundred  feet,  and  its  depth,  as  we  as- 
certained by  the  lead-line,  two  hundred  and  fifteen — that  is, 


OTJIKOTO  FOUNTAIN. 


at  the  sides,  for  we  had  no  means  of  plumbing  the  middle, 
but  had  reason  to  believe  the  depth  to  be  pretty  uniform 
throughout.  To  about  thirty  feet  of  the  brink  it  is  filled 
with  water.* 

* Shortly  before  reaching  “Baboon  Fountain”  I should  remark  that, 
at  a place  called  Orujo,  we  saw  a cavity  of  a similar  shape,  though  on 
an  infinitely  smaller  scale.  It  consisted  of  a circular-shaped  basin  in 
the  limestone  rock  ninety  feet  in  diameter  by  thirty  in  depth.  As  it 


OTJIKOTO REMARKABLE  CAVERN.  181 

Otjikoto,  “one  of  the  most  wonderful  of  Nature’s  freaks,” 
is  situated  at  the  northern  extremity  of  those  broken  hills 
which  take  their  rise  in  the  neighborhood  of  Okamabuti,  and 
in  the  midst  of  a dense  coppice.  So  effectually  is  it  hidden 
from  view,  that  a person  might  pass  within  fifty  paces  of  it 
without  being  aware  of  its  existence.  Owing  to  its  steep  and 
rugged  sides,  cattle  have  not  access  to  the  water ; and  even 
a man  can  only  approach  this  enormous  well  by  means  of  a 
steep  and  slippery  footpath.  No  perceptible  difference  could 
be  observed  in  the  height  of  the  water ; and  the  Ovambo 
informed  us  that,  as  long  as  they  and  their  fathers  remem- 
bered, it  had  always  been  the  same.  It  is  difficult  to  imag- 
ine how  or  whence  Otjikoto  receives  its  supplies.  A spa- 
cious cavern,  only  visible  and  accessible  from  the  water,  may 
possibly  be  the  grand  reservoir. 

After  gratifying  our  curiosity,  Galton  and  myself,  standing 
in  need  of  a bath,  plunged  head  foremost  into  the  profound 
abyss.  The  natives  were  utterly  astounded.  Before  reach- 
ing Otjikoto,  they  had  told  us  that  if  a man  or  beast  was 
so  unfortunate  as  to  fall  into  the  pool,  he  would  inevitably 
perish.  We  attributed  this  to  superstitious  notions  ; but  the 
mystery  was  now  explained.  The  art  of  swimming  was 
totally  unknown  in  these  regions.  The  water  was  very  cold, 
and,  from  its  great  depth,  the  temperature  is  likely  to  be  the 
same  throughout  the  year. 

We  swam  into  the  cavern  to  which  allusion  has  just  been 
made.  The  transparency  of  the  water,  which  was  of  the 
deepest  sea-green,* was  remarkable;  and  the  effect  produced 
in  the  watery  mirror  by  the  reflection  of  the  crystallized 
walls  and  roof  of  the  cavern  appeared  very  striking  and 
beautiful.  In  this  mysterious  spot,  two  owls  and  a great 
number  of  bats  had  taken  up  their  abode.  On  approaching 

was  dry  at  the  time,  we  ascertained  that  the  bottom  was  flat,  or  near- 
ly so.  In  various  other  places  we  also  met  with  similar  basins,  hut  on 
a still  smaller  scale  than  Orujo. 


182  LARGE  FLOCK  OF  DOVES THORNS. 

some  of  the  latter,  which  I saw  clinging  to  the  rocks,  I found, 
to  my  surprise,  that  they  were  dead,  and  had  probably  been 
so  for  many  years ; at  least  they  had  all  the  appearance  of 
mummies. 

Otjikoto  contained  an  abundance  of  fish  somewhat  resem- 
bling perch,  but  those  we  caught  were  not  much  larger  than 
one’s  finger.  One  day  we  had  several  scores  of  these  little 
creatures  for  dinner,  and  very  palatable  they  proved. 

In  the  morning  and  evening  Otjikoto  was  visited  by  an 
incredible  ^number  of  doves,  some  of  which  were  most  deli- 
cately and  beautifully  marked.  On  such  occasions  the  wood 
resounded  with  their  cooing ; but  when  disturbed,  as  they  fre- 
quently were,  by  the  invasion  of  a hawk,  the  noise  caused  by 
their  precipitate  flight  was  like  that  of  a sudden  rush  of  wind. 

Many  Bushmen  resided  near  Otjikoto,  and,  as  every 
where  else  in  these  regions,  they  lived  on  excellent  terms  with 
the  Ovambo,  to  whom  they  brought  copper  ore  for  sale, 
which  they  obtained  from  the  neighboring  hills.  Indeed,  as 
our  acquaintance  with  the  Ovambo  increased,  we  were  more 
and  more  favorably  impressed  with  their  character.  They 
treated  all  men  equally  well,  and  even  the  so  much  despised 
Hottentots  ate  out  of  the  same  dish  and  smoked  out  of  the 
same  pipe  as  themselves. 

We  only  staid  a day  at  Otjikoto.  The  next  morning, 
after  a few  hours’  travel,  we  lost  sight  of  all  landmarks,  and 
were  now  making  our  way  through  dense  thorn  coppices, 
which  harassed  and  delayed  us  exceedingly.  To  say  nothing 
of  tearing  our  clothes  to  rags,  they  now  and  then  extracted 
some  article  from  the  saddle-bags.  Of  the  regular  Ovambo 
caravan  route  all  traces  had  been  obliterated,  and  we  now 
first  began  to  understand  and  appreciate  the  difficulties  that 
would  have  beset  us  had  we  tried  to  prosecute  the  journey 
alone.  Indeed,  without  the  most  experienced  guides,  it 
would  have  been  an  utterly  hopeless  task.  The  watering- 
places,  moreover,  were  very  few,  and  scattered  over  an  im- 
mense extent  of  country,  which  was  dreary  in  the  extreme. 


A PANIC ARRIVAL  AT  OMUTJAMATUNDA. 


188 


Shortly  after  leaving  Otjikoto,  and  when  walking  in  ad- 
vance of  the  caravan,  in  company  with  several  of  the  head 
men  of  the  Ovambo,  in  the  hope  of  procuring  some  speci- 
mens of  natural  history,  I suddenly  flushed  a brace  of  sand- 
grouse,  both  of  which  I brought  to  the  ground.  The  effect 
produced  on  my  companions  was  ludicrous  in  the  extreme. 
They  looked  as  if  they  had  received  an  electric  shock,  and 
stood  aghast,  with  their  mouths  wide  open.  On  requesting 
them  to  pick  up  the  dead  birds,  they  absolutely  refused,  and 
seemed  petrified  with  fear.  Their  conduct  was  the  more 
singular,  as,  on  our  first  meeting,  they  had  given  us  to  un- 
derstand that,  through  the  Portuguese,  with  whom  they  had 
indirect  intercourse,  they  were  well  acquainted  with  fire-arms, 
but  that  they  were  not  afraid  of  them,  as,  by  simply  blowing 
in  the  muzzle,  they  lost  all  power. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  29th  of  May  we  reached  Omutja- 
matunda,  the  first  cattle-post  belonging  to  the  Ovambo.  On 
account  of  this  being  harvest-time,  our  friend  Chikor’on- 
kombe  did  not  expect  to  find  many  of  his  countrymen  here; 
but  he  was  mistaken,  for  it  swarmed  with  people  as  well  as 
cattle.  The  latter  I estimated  at  no  less  than  from  three  to 
four  thousand. 

Immediately  on  our  arrival  we  were  surrounded  by  great 
numbers  of  inquisitive  people,  who  looked  upon  the  European 
portion  of  our  party  as  some  rarce  aves.  They  appeared  to 
be  gratified  at  seeing  their  countrymen  safe  home  again,  and 
expressed  much  admiration  at  the  fine  herd  of  sleek  cattle 
they  had  brought  with  them. 

The  way  of  welcoming  friends  among  the  Ovambo  is 
somewhat  singular.  In  our  case,  after  every  one  was  seated 
an  immense  dish  of  fresh  butter  was  produced,  when  the  head 
man  of  the  post  besmeared  the  face  and  breast  of  each  indi- 
vidual with  an  abundance  of  the  unction.  The  ceremony  be- 
ing satisfactorily  performed  on  their  own  friends  and  kins- 
men, it  became  evident  that  they  contemplated  the  same 


184 


FOUNTAIN ARCHERY GROUSE. 


agreeable  operation  on  ourselves.  On  seeing  what  was  com- 
ing, Galton,  held  out  both  his  hands,  and  exclaimed,  “ Oh ! 
for  goodness’  sake,  if  the  thing  is  necessary,  be  it  at  least  mod- 
erate!” His  request  was  granted,  for  he  escaped  with  a 
brush  or  two  across  the  face,  but  it  created  much  jest  and 
mirth  among  the  company. 

At  Omutjamatunda  there  is  a most  copious  fountain,  sit- 
uated on  some  rising  ground,  and  commanding  a splendid 
prospect  of  the  surrounding  country.  It  was  a refreshing 
sight  to  stand  on  the  borders  of  the  fountain,  which  was  lux- 
uriantly overgrown  with  towering  reeds,  and  sweep  with  the 
eye  the  extensive  plain  encircling  the  base  of  the  hill,  fre- 
quented as  it  was  not  only  by  vast  herds  of  domesticated 
cattle,  but  with  the  lively  springbok  and  troops  of  striped  ze- 
bras. If  the  monotony  of  our  dreary  wanderings  had  not 
thus  occasionally  been  relieved,  I do  not  know  how  we 
should  have  borne  up  against  our  constant  trials  and  diffi- 
culties. 

In  order  to  ascertain  the  proficiency  of  the  Ovambo  in 
archery,  we  had  shooting-matches  while  at  Omutjamatunda. 
The  result  proved  that  they  were  inferior  in  this  respect  even 
to  the  Damaras,  who,  as  already  said,  are  wretched  marks- 
men. The  poor  despised  Bushmen  beat  both  tribes  out  and 
out  in  the  use  of  the  bow,  which,  however,  is  to  be  expected, 
since  they  subsist  in  a great  measure  by  the  chase. 

During  the  two  days  we  remained  at  Omutjamatunda  we 
amused  ourselves  with  shooting  ducks  and  birds  of  the  grouse 
kind.  Both  were  abundant,  but  more  especially  the  latter, 
which  literally  obscured  the  air  with  their  numbers  every 
morning  and  evening,  when  they  came  to  quench  their 
thirst.  It  is,  however,  only  in  the  dry  season,  as  in  the 
present  instance,  that  they  are  observed  in  such  astonishing 
multitudes.  They  usually  go  far  in  search  of  food,  and  al- 
though a pair  only  may  be  seen  at  starting  in  quest  of  wa- 
ter, yet,  as  they  draw  nearer  to  the  pool,  they  describe  wide 


INTENSE  COLD — THE  AUTHOR  NEARLY  BURNED.  185 

and  continued  circles  over  it,  and  thus,  by  giving  time  for  oth- 
ers to  arrive,  increase  their  numbers. 

There  is  a great  variety  among  the  grouse.  Thus,  for  in- 
stance, in  the  course  of  a single  morning,  and  in  about  half 
a dozen  discharges,  I have  bagged  grouse  of  five  different 
species,  and  I have  procured  altogether  eight  or  nine ; but 
none  of  them  are  good  eating.  They  chiefly  live  on  hard,  in- 
digestible seeds,  often  of  an  oily  substance,  which  gives  to 
the  meat  a toughness  and  an  unsavory  flavor.  They  are  best 
when  made  into  pies. 

I have  already  mentioned  that  we  had  one  morning  been 
suddenly  apprised  of  the  approach  of  winter  by  an  intensely 
bleak  wind.  Since  then  the  cold  had  gradually  increased, 
and  we  suffered  much  in  the  night-time.  Hitherto  the  abun- 
dance of  fuel  we  had  found  every  where  enabled  us  to  keep  up 
a roaring  fire,  which  in  some  degree  shielded  us  from  the 
night  air.  At  Omutjamatunda,  however,  dry  wood  was 
scarce,  because  the  place  was  the  permanent  residence  of  a 
great  number  of  natives,  and,  as  a consequence,  the  cold  was 
painfully  disagreeable. 

The  morning  before  leaving  Omutjamatunda  a curious  ac- 
cident occurred  to  me.  On  lying  down  at  night  alongside  a 
small  fire,  the  air  was  quite  calm,  but  toward  morning  a 
strong  and  cutting  wind  arose.  To  protect  myself  against 
the  chilling  blast,  I was  obliged  to  pull  the  blanket  over  my 
head,  and  was  thus  slumbering  in  happy  ignorance  of  every 
thing.  After  a time  an  agreeable  sensation  of  warmth  and 
comfort  stole  over  me,  and  the  most  exquisite  visions  floated 
before  my  imagination.  By  degrees,  however,  this  pleasant 
feeling  was  converted  into  uneasiness,  and  ultimately  into 
absolute  pain.  I was  writhing  in  agonies.  By  a violent  ef- 
fort I roused  myself  out  of  the  trance,  and,  starting  to  my 
feet,  discovered  that  the  coverlet  was  ignited.  A spark  had 
fallen  on  it,  and,  being  composed  of  quilted  cotton,  it  had 
for  a long  time  been  slowly  smouldering,  which  accounted 


186  “ SALT-PANS” A SAVANNA. 

for  the  agreeable  feeling  I had  at  first  experienced.  On  the 
fire  coming  into  contact  with  my  body-linen,  however,  the 
lulling  sensation  was  changed  into  one  of  torment.  Hans 
had  had  a similar  accident  at  Schmelen’s  Hope,  on  which 
occasion  almost  the  whole  of  the  skins,  &c.,  spread  beneath 
him  were  consumed  before  he  was  aware  of  what  had  hap- 
pened. From  that  day  forward,  as  may  be  supposed,  I al- 
ways made  my  bed  far  away  from  the  fire. 

On  the  last  day  of  May  we  were  again  on  the  move.  Mes- 
sengers were  started  in  advance  to  apprise  King  Nangoro  of 
our  approach,  and  to  convey  to  him  a few  trifling  presents. 
They  would  probably  reach  his  capital  in  about  two  days. 

In  the  course  of  the  first  day’s  journey  we  traversed  an 
immense  hollow,  called  Etosha,  covered  with  saline  incrus- 
tations, and  having  wooded  and  well-defined  borders.  Such 
places  are  in  Africa  designated  “ salt-pans.”  The  surface 
consisted  of  a soft,  greenish-yellow  clay  soil,  strewed  with 
fragments  of  small  sandstone  of  a purple  tint.  Strange  to 
relate,  we  had  scarcely  been  ten  minutes  on  this  ground 
when  the  lower  extremities  of  ourselves  and  cattle  became  of 
the  same  purple  color.  In  some  rainy  seasons,  the  Ovambo 
informed  us,  the  locality  was  flooded,  and  had  all  the  appear- 
ance of  a lake  ; but  now  it  was  quite  dry,  and  the  soil  strong- 
ly impregnated  with  salt.  Indeed,  close  in  shore,  this  com- 
modity was  to  be  had  of  a very  pure  quality. 

At  night  we  bivouacked  on  the  southern  extremity  of  a 
boundless  savanna,  called  Otjihako-tja-Muteya,  totally  des- 
titute of  trees,  and  even  bushes.  The  natives  were  unable  to 
give  us  an  idea  of  its  real  extent ; but,  as  far  as  we  could 
learn,  it  reached  to  the  sea  on  the  west.  Like  Etosha,  it 
had  distinct  and  wooded  borders. 

The  second  of  June  will  ever  be  remembered  by  us.  On 
the  afternoon  of  that  day  we  first  set  eye  on  the  beautiful  and 
fertile  plains  of  Ondonga,  the  country  of  the  Ovambo.  Vain 
would  be  any  attempt  to  describe  the  sensations  of  delight 


A PARADISE HOSPITABLE  RECEPTION. 


187 


and  pleasure  experienced  by  us  on  that  memorable  occasion , 
or  to  give  an  idea  of  the  enchanting  panoramic  scene  that  all 
at  once  opened  on  our  view.  Suffice  it  to  say  that,  instead 
of  the  eternal  jungles,  where  every  moment  we  were  in  dan- 
ger of  being  dragged  out  of  our  saddles  by  the  merciless 
thorns,  the  landscape  now  presented  an  apparently  bound- 
less field  of  yellow  corn,  dotted  with  numerous  peaceful  home- 
steads, and  bathed  in  the  soft  light  of  a declining  tropical 
sun.  Here  and  there,  moreover,  arose  gigantic,  wide-spread- 
ing, and  dark-foliaged  timber  and  fruit  trees,  while  innumer- 
able fan-like  palms,  either  singly  or  in  groups,  completed  the 
picture.  To  us  it  was  a perfect  elysium,  and  well  rewarded 
us  for  every  former  toil  and  disappointment.  My  friend, 
who  had  traveled  far  and  wide,  confessed  he  had  never  seen 
any  thing  that  could  be  compared  to  it.  Often  since  have  I 
conjured  up  to  my  imagination  this  scene,  and  have  thought 
it  might  not  inaptly  be  compared  to  stepping  out  of  a hot, 
white,  and  shadowless  road  into  a park  fresh  with  verdure, 
and  cool  with  the  umbrage  cast  down  by  groups  of  reverend 
trees. 

The  first  dwelling  that  lay  in  our  path  was  that  of  old 
Naitjo,  one  of  the  chief  men  of  our  trading  caravan,  who, 
after  having  feasted  us  on  such  fare  as  the  country  produced 
(among  which  was  a dish  of  hot  dough  steeped  in  melted 
butter),  conducted  us  over  his  extensive  establishment,  com- 
prising his  harem,  his  children,  granaries,  and  so  forth.  Tim- 
bo  was  in  ecstasies  with  the  country  and  its  hospitable  in- 
habitants, and  declared  that  it  was  as  like  as  two  peas  to 
his  own  native  land. 

Another  hour’s  travel  brought  us  to  the  residence  of  our 
guide  Chikor’onkombe,  where  we  remained  two  nights  and  a 
day  to  rest  our  weary  animals.  Poor  creatures!  they  had 
had  no  water  for  two  entire  days,  and  the  consequence  was 
that  during  the  first  night  they  broke  out  of  the  inclosures 
and  strayed  far  away  in  search  of  it. 


188  LARGE  TREES PALM-FRUIT ROADS GRAIN. 

On  the  4th  we  again  set  forward.  The  aspect  of  the 
country  was  still  characterized  by  the  greatest  abundance, 
and  the  trees  became  even  more  numerous. 

Nearly  all  produced  edible  fruit,  though  some  were  not 
yet  ripe.  The  trees,  moreover,  were  on  a grander  scale  than 
heretofore.  One  kind  in  particular  — that  mentioned  as 
bearing  a fruit  somewhat  resembling  an  apple — attained  to 
a most  astonishing  size.  Indeed,  the  branches  of  one  that 
we  measured  spread  over  a space  of  ground  one  hundred  and 
forty-four  feet  in  diameter,  or  four  hundred  and  thirty-two  in 
circumference ! 

The  palms  growing  hereabout — the  stems  of  which,  before 
they  began  to  branch  out,  often  rose  to  fifty  and  sixty  feet — 
were,  to  all  appearance,  of  the  same  kind  as  that  we  had 
seen  about  two  hundred  miles  to  the  southward ; but  the 
fruit  proved  very  good.  When  slightly  soaked  in  water — 
which,  by-the-by,  is  the  best  way  of  eating  it- — it  tasted  pre- 
cisely like  gingerbread. 

There  appeared  to  be  no  roads  of  any  description.  For- 
tunately, however,  the  harvest  had  just  been  completed,  or 
nearly  so,  and  without  damage  to  the  owners  we  were  there- 
fore enabled  to  cross  the  fields  as  the  crow  flies. 

Two  different  kinds  of  grain  we  found  indigenous  to  this 
country,  viz.,  the  common  Caffre-corn,  said  to  resemble  the 
Egyptian  “doura,”  and  another  sort,  very  small  grained, 
not  unlike  canary-seed,  and  akin,  I believe,  to  the  u badjera” 
of  India.  This  is  the  more  nutritious  of  the  two,  and,  when 
well  ground,  produces  excellent  flour. 

The  stalk  of  both  these  kinds  of  grain  is  stout — the  thick- 
ness of  a sugar-cane — some  eight  or  nine  feet  high,  and  juicy 
and  sweet  to  the  taste,  which  has  no  doubt  given  rise  to  a be- 
lief in  the  existence  of  the  sugar-cane  in  many  of  the  interior 
parts  of  Africa.  When  the  grain  is  ripe  the  ear  is  cut  off,  and 
the  remainder  is  left  to  the  cattle,  which  devour  it  greedily. 

Besides  grain,  the  Ovambo  cultivate  calabashes,  water- 


LIVE  IN  PATRIARCHAL  STYLE. 


189 


melons,  pumpkins,  beans,  peas,  &c.  They  also  plant  tobacco. 
When  ripe,  the  leaves  and  stalks  are  collected,  and  mashed 
together  in  a hollow  piece  of  wood  by  means  of  a heavy 
pole.  The  tobacco  is,  however,  of  a very  inferior  quality ; 
so  much  so,  that  our  Damaras,  who  had  a mania  for  the 
weed,  refused  to  smoke  it. 

There  are  no  towns  or  villages  in  Ovambo-land,  but  the 
people,  like  the  patriarchs  of  old,  live  in  separate  families. 
Each  homestead  is  situated  in  the  middle  of  a corn-field,  and 
surrounded  by  high  and  stout  palisades.  The  natives  were 
obliged  to  take  this  precaution  in  order  to  guard  against  the 
sudden  attacks  of  a neighboring  hostile  tribe,  which  kept 
constantly  harassing  them.  Once  or  twice  the  Ovambo  at- 
tempted to  retaliate,  but  without  success.  The  tribe  just 
mentioned  is  the  only  one  with  whom  this  naturally  peace- 
able people  are  ever  at  variance.  If  not  previously  provoked 
they  interfere  with  no  one. 

We  were  anxious  to  form  some  sort  of  estimate  of  the 
density  of  the  population,  but  this  was  no  easy  matter. 
However,  by  counting  the  houses  in  a certain  extent  of  coun- 
try, and  taking  the  average  number  of  individuals  to  each, 
we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  there  were  about  a hundred 
persons  to  every  square  mile. 

With  the  exception  of  a few  cows  and  goats,  no  cattle 
were  seen  about  the  dwellings  of  the  natives,  yet  we  knew 
them  to  be  possessed  of  vast  herds.  A general  scarcity  of 
water  and  pasturage  in  Ondonga  compelled  them  to  send  the 
oxen  away  to  distant  parts.  They  also  breed  hogs,  which, 
from  their  mischievous  propensities,  are  always  sent  to  a 
distance  during  the  time  of  harvest.  These  animals,  they 
assured  us,  attain  to  an  enormous  size.  By  all  accounts, 
indeed,  they  must  be  perfect  monsters.  And  there  can  be 
little  doubt  of  the  fact,  for  captains  of  vessels,  who  are  ac- 
customed to  trade  with  the  natives  of  the  West  Coast,  also 
speak  of  a gigantic  race  of  swine. 


190 


ANCIENT  CUSTOM NANGORO. 


In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day  after  leaving  Chi- 
kor’onkombe’s  werft  we  came  in  sight  of  the  residence  of  the 
redoubtable  Nangoro.  We  were  not,  however,  allowed  to 
enter  the  royal  inclosures,  but  a clump  of  trees  was  pointed 
out  to  us  as  our  encamping  place. 

While  arranging  our  baggage,  &c.,  Chikor’onkombe  pro- 
ceeded to  inform  his  royal  master  of  our  arrival,  and  to  state 
the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  intended  presents.  Before 
making  his  obeisance  to  his  majesty,  the  Eastern  custom  of 
taking  off  the  sandals  was  carefully  attended  to.  On  his  re- 
turn he  brought  a man  carrying  some  fire,  with  orders  to  ex- 
tinguish ours,  and  to  relight  it  with  that  from  the  king’s 
own  hearth. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Visit  from  Nangoro. — His  extreme  Obesity. — One  must  be  fat  to  wear 
a Crown. — His  non-appreciation  of  Eloquence. — Singular  Effects 
of  Fireworks  on  the  Natives. — Cure  for  making  a wry  Face. — Ball 
at  the  Palace. — The  Ladies  very  attractive  and  very  loving. — Their 
Dress,  Ornaments,  &c. — Honesty  of  the  Ovambo. — Kindness  to  the 
Poor. — Love  of  Country. — Hospitality. — Delicate  manner  of  Eat- 
ing.— Loose  Morals. — Law  of  Succession. — Religion. — Houses. — 
Domestic  Animals. — Implements  of  Husbandry.* — Manner  of  Tilling 
the  Ground. — Articles  of  Barter. — Metallurgy. 

We  had  been  nearly  three  days  at  Nangoro’ s capital  be- 
fore its  royal  occupant  honored  our  camp  with  his  presence. 
This  unaccountable  delay  gave  us  some  uneasiness ; yet  we 
could  not  but  surmise  that  he  had  been  longing  to  see  us 
during  the  whole  time.  I believe  it,  however,  to  be  a kind 
of  rule  with  most  native  princes  of  note  in  this  part  of  Af- 
rica, to  keep  strangers  waiting  in  order  to  impress  them  with 
a due  sense  of  dignity  and  importance. 

If  obesity  is  to  be  considered  as  a sign  of  royalty,  Nangoro 
was  u every  inch  a king.”  To  our  notions,  however,  he  was 
the  most  ungainly  and  unwieldy  figure  we  had  ever  seen. 


THE  ROYAL  VISIT. 


191 


His  walk  resembled  rather  the  waddling  of  a duck  than  the 
firm  and  easy  gait  which  we  are  wont  to  associate  with  roy- 
alty. Moreover,  he  was  in  a state  of  almost  absolute  nudity, 
which  showed  him  off  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage.  It 


INTERVIEW  WITH  KING  NANGOEO. 


appeared  strange  to  us  that  he  should  be  the  only  really  fat 
person  in  the  whole  of  Ondonga.  This  peculiarity  no  doubt 
is  attributable  to  the  custom  that  prevails  in  other  parts  of 
Africa,  viz.,  that  of  selecting  for  rulers  such  persons  only 
who  have  a natural  tendency  to  corpulence,  or,  more  com- 
monly, fattening  them  for  the  dignity  as  we  fatten  pigs.* 

With  the  exception  of  a cow  and  an  ox,  Nangoro  appeared 
to  appreciate  few  or  none  of  the  presents  which  Mr.  Galton 
bestowed  on  him.  And  as  for  my  friend’s  brilliant  and  en- 

* In  speaking  of  the  Matabili,  Captain  Harris  says,  “To  be  fat  is 
the  greatest  of  all  crimes,  no  person  being  allowed  that  privilege  but 
the  king.”  Here,  then,  we  have  a new  kind  of  lese-majestL  Accord- 
ing to  some  of  the  African  tribes,  obesity  in  plebeians  is  high-treason  ! 


192  “TOO  FAT” EFFECT  OF  FIRE-ARMS CUNNING-. 

ergetic  orations,  they  had  no  more  effect  on  the  ear  of  royal- 
ty than  if  addressed  to  a stock  or  a stone.  It  was  in  vain 
that  he  represented  to  his  majesty  the  advantages  of  a more 
immediate  communication  with  Europeans.  Nangoro  spoke 
little  or  nothing.  He  could  not  be  eloquent  because  excess- 
ive fat  had  made  him  short-winded.  Like  Falstaff,  his 
“ voice  was  broken.”  Any  attempt  on  his  part  to  utter  a 
sentence  of  decent  length  would  have  put  an  end  to  him,  so 
he  merely  66  grunted”  whenever  he  desired  to  express  either 
approbation  or  dissatisfaction. 

In  common  with  his  men,  he  was  at  first  very  incredulous 
as  to  the  effect  produced  by  fire-arms ; but  when  he  wit- 
nessed the  depth  that  our  steel-pointed  conical  balls  pene- 
trated into  the  trunk  of  a sound  tree,  he  soon  changed  his 
opinion,  and  evidently  became  favorably  impressed  with  their 
efficacy.  As  for  the  men  of  his  tribe  who  had  not  yet  seen 
guns,  and  who  had  flocked  to  the  camp  to  have  a look  at  us, 
they  became  so  alarmed  that,  at  the  instant  of  each  discharge, 
they  fell  flat  on  their  faces,  and  remained  in  their  prostrate 
position  for  some  little  time  afterward.  A few  very  indiffer- 
ent fireworks  which  we  displayed  created  nearly  equal  sur- 
prise and  consternation. 

In  another  interview  with  Nangoro  he  requested  us  to 
shoot  some  elephants,  which  were  said  to  abound  at  no  great 
distance,  and  which,  at  times,  committed  great  havoc  among 
the  corn-fields,  trampling  down  what  they  did  not  consume. 
However  much  we  might  have  relished  the  proposal  under 
other  circumstances,  we  now  peremptorily  refused  to  comply. 
We  reasoned  thus  : “ Supposing  we  were  successful,  Nangoro 
would  not  only  bag  all  the  ivory — an  article  he  was  known 
to  covet  and  to  sell  largely  to  the  Portuguese — but  he  would 
keep  us  in  Ondonga  till  all  the  elephants  were  shot  or  scared 
away.”  Neither  of  these  results  suited  our  purpose.  The 
cunning  fellow  soon  had  an  opportunity  of  revenging  himself 
on  us  for  this  disregard  of  his  royal  wish. 


BEEK CUKE  FOR  A WRY  FACE — —BA IX. 


193 


On  paying  our  respects  to  Ms  majesty  one  day,  we  were  re- 
galed with  a prodigious  quantity  of  beer,  brewed  from  grain, 
and  served  out  of  a monster  calabash  with  spoons  (made  from 


BEER-CUP  AND  BEER- SPOON. 


diminutive  pumpkins),  in  nicely-worked  wooden  goblets.  Be- 
ing unwell  at  the  time,  I was  not  in  a state  properly  to  ap- 
preciate the  tempting  beverage.  Nangoro,  however,  who 
probably  attributed  the  wry  face  that  I made  to  the  influence 
of  the  liquor,  suddenly  thrust  his  sceptre,  which,  by  the  way, 
was  simply  a pointed  stick,  with  great  force  into  the  pit  of 
my  stomach.  I was  sitting  cross-legged  on  the  ground  at 
the  time,  but  the  blow  was  so  violent  as  to  cause  me  to  spring 
to  my  feet  in  an  instant.  Nangoro  was  evidently  much 
pleased  with  his  practical  joke.  As  for  myself,  I sincerely 
wished  him  at  the  antipodes.  However,  for  fear  of  offending 
royalty,  I choked  my  rising  anger,  and  reseated  myself  with 
the  best  grace  I could,  but  I tried  in  vain  to  produce  a smile. 

On  another  occasion  we  attended  a ball  at  the  royal  res- 
idence. An  entertainment  of  this  kind  was  given  every 
night  soon  after  dark,  but  it  was  the  most  stupid  and  unin- 
teresting affair  I ever  witnessed.  The  musical  instruments 
were  the  well-known  African  tom-tom  and  a kind  of  guitar. 


GUITAR. 


I 


194  THE  women:  their  dress  and  ornaments. 

We  did  not  join  in  the  dance,  but  amused  ourselves  with  ad- 
miring the  ladies.  What  with  their  charms,  which  were  by 
no  means  inconsiderable,  and  the  wonderful  regard  they 
evinced  for  us,  these  damsels  all  but  ruined  our  peace  of 
mind. 

The  features  of  the  Ovambo  women,  though  coarse,  are 
not  unpleasing.  When  young  they  possess  very  good  figures. 
As  they  grow  older,  however,  the  symmetry  gradually  dis- 
appears, and  they  become  exceedingly  stout  and  ungainly. 
One  of  the  causes  of  this  is  probably  to  be  found  in  the  heavy 
copper  ornaments  with  which  they  load  their  wrists  and  an- 
kles. Some  of  the  ankle-rings  must  weigh  as  much  as  two 
or  three  pounds,  and  they  have  often  a pair  on  each  leg. 
Moreover,  their  necks,  waists,  and  hips  are  almost  hidden 
from  view  by  a profusion  of  shells,  cowries,  and  beads  of  ev- 
ery size  and  color,  which  sometimes  are  rather  prettily  ar- 
ranged.* Another  cause  of  their  losing  their  good  looks  in 
comparatively  early  life  is  the  constant  and  severe  labor 
they  are  obliged  to  undergo.  In  this  land  of  industry  no 
one  is  allowed  to  be  idle,  and  this  is  more  especially  the 
case  with  the  females.  Work  begins  at  sunrise  and  ends  at 
sunset. 

The  hair  of  both  men  and  women  is  short,  crisp,  and 
woolly.  With  the  exception  of  the  crown,  which  is  always 
left  untouched,  the  men  often  shave  the  head,  which  has  the 
effect  of  magnifying  the  natural  prominence  of  the  hinder 
parts  of  it.  The  women,  on  the  other  hand,  not  satisfied 
with  the  gifts  nature  has  bestowed  upon  them,  resort,  like 
the  polished  ladies  of  Europe,  to  artificial  exaggerations. 
They  besmear  and  stiffen  the  hair  with  cakes  of  grease  and  a 
vermilion-colored  substance,  which,  from  being  constantly 
added  to  and  pressed  upon  it,  gives  to  the  upper  part  of  the 

* These  ornaments,  together  with  a narrow  and  soft  piece  of  skin 
in  front,  and  another  behind  of  stout  hide,  constitute  the  dress  of  the 
Ovambo  ladies . 


OVAMBO. 


195 


OVAMBO. 


196  HONESTY  OF  THE  OVAMBO NO  PAUPERISM. 

head  a broad  and  flat  look.  The  persons  of  the  women  are 
also  profusely  besmeared  with  grease  and  red  ochre. 

Besides  ear-rings  of  beads  or  shells,  the  men  display  but  few 
ornaments.  With  regard  to  clothing,  both  sexes  are  far  more 
scantily  attired  than  the  Damaras.  When  grown  up,  they 
chip  the  middle  tooth  in  the  under  jaw. 

The  Ovambo,  so  far  as  came  under  my  own  observation, 
were  strictly  honest.  Indeed,  they  appeared  to  entertain 
great  horror  of  theft,  and  said  that  a man  detected  in  pil- 
fering would  be  brought  to  the  king’s  residence  and  there 
speared  to  death.  In  various  parts  of  the  country  a kind  of 
magistrate  is  appointed,  whose  duty  is  to  report  all  misde- 
meanors. Without  permission,  the  natives  would  not  even 
touch  any  thing,  and  we  could  leave  our  camp  free  from  the 
least  apprehension  of  being  plundered.  As  a proof  of  their 
honesty,  I may  mention  that,  when  we  left  the  Ovambo 
country,  the  servants  forgot  some  trifles,  and  such  was  the 
integrity  of  the  people  that  messengers  actually  came  after 
us  a very  considerable  distance  to  restore  the  articles  left  be- 
hind. In  Damara  and  Namaqua-land,  on  the  contrary,  a 
traveler  is  in  constant  danger  of  being  robbed,  and,  when 
stopping  at  a place,  it  is  always  necessary  to  keep  the  strict- 
est watch  on  the  movements  of  the  inhabitants. 

But  honesty  was  not  the  only  good  quality  of  this  fine  race 
of  men.  There  was  no  pauperism  in  the  country.  Crippled 
and  aged  people,  moreover,  seemed  to  be  carefully  tended  and 
nursed.  What  a contrast  to  their  neighbors,  the  Damaras, 
who,  when  a man  becomes  old,  and  no  longer  able  to  shift 
for  himself,  carry  him  into  the  desert  or  the  forest,  where  he 
soon  falls  a prey  to  wild  beasts,  or  is  left  to  perish  on  his 
own  hearth  ! Nay,  he  is  often  knocked  on  the  head,  or  oth- 
erwise put  to  death. 

The  Ovambo  are  very  national,  and  exceedingly  proud  of 
their  native  soil.  They  are  offended  when  questioned  as  to 
the  number  of  chiefs  by  whom  they  are  ruled.  “We  ac- 


LOVE  OF  COUNTRY HOW  THEY  EAT.  197 

knowledge  only  one  king.  But  a Damara,”  they  would  add, 
with  a contemptuous  smile,  “when  possessed  of  a few  cows, 
considers  himself  at  once  a chieftain.” 

The  people  have  also  very  strong  local  attachments.  At 
an  after  period,  while  Mr.  Galton  was  waiting  at  St.  Helena 
for  a ship  to  convey  him  to  England,  he  was  told  “that 
slaves  were  not  exported  from  south  of  Benguela  because  they 
never  thrived  when  taken  away,  hut  became  home-sick  and 
died.”  This,  no  doubt,  refers  in  part  to  the  Ovambo.  More- 
over, though  people  of  every  class  and  tribe  are  permitted  to 
intermarry  with  them,  they  are,  in  such  case,  never  allowed 
to  leave  the  country. 

The  Ovambo  are  decidedly  hospitable.  We  often  had  the 
good  fortune  to  partake  of  their  liberality.  Their  staple  food 
is  a kind  of  coarse  stir-about,  which  is  always  served  hot, 
either  with  melted  butter  or  sour  milk. 

Being  once  on  a shooting  excursion,  our  guide  took  us  to 
a friend’s  house,  where  we  were  regaled  with  the  above  fare. 
But,  as  no  spoons  accompanied  it,  we  felt  at  a loss  how  to  set 
to  work.  On  seeing  the  dilemma  we  were  in,  our  host  quick- 
ly plunged  his  greasy  fingers  into  the  middle  of  the  steaming 
mess,  and  brought  out  a handfull,  which  he  dashed  into  the 
milk.  Having  stirred  it  quickly  round  with  all  his  might,  he 
next  opened  his  spacious  mouth,  in  which  the  agreeable  mix- 
ture vanished  as  if  by  magic.  He  finally  licked  his  fingers 
and  smacked  his  lips  with  evident  satisfaction,  looking  at  us 
as  much  as  to  say,  “That’s  the 
trick,  my  boys!”.  However  un- 
pleasant this  initiation  might  have 
appeared  to  us,  it  would  have  been 
ungrateful,  if  not  offensive,  to  re- 
fuse ; therefore  we  commenced  in 
earnest,  according  to  example,  emptying  the  dish,  and  occa- 
sionally burning  our  fingers,  to  the  great  amusement  of  our 
swarthy  friends. 


MEAT-DISH. 


198  LOOSE  MORALS RULE  OF  SUCCESSION. 

Although  generally  very  rich  in  cattle,  and  fond  of  animal 
diet,  their  beasts  would  seem  to  be  kept  rather  for  show  than 
for  food.  When  an  ox  is  killed,  the  greater  portion  of  the 
animal  is  disposed  of  by  the  owner  to  the  neighbors,  who 
give  the  produce  of  their  ground  in  exchange. 

The  morality  of  the  Ovambo  is  very  low,  and  polygamy 
is  practiced  to  a great  extent.  A man  may  have  as  many 
wives  as  he  can  afford  to  keep ; but,  as  with  the  Damaras, 
there  is  always  one  who  is  the  favorite  and  the  highest  in 
rank.  Woman  is  looked  upon  as  a mere  commodity — an 
article  of  commerce.  If  the  husband  be  poor,  the  price  of  a 
wife  is  two  oxen  and  one  cow ; but  should  his  circumstances 
be  tolerably  flourishing,  three  oxen  and  two  cows  will  be  ex- 
pected. The  chief,  however,  is  an  exception  to  this  rule. 
In  his  case,  the  honor  of  an  alliance  with  him  is  supposed  to 
be  a sufficient  compensation.  Our  fat  friend  Nangoro  had 
largely  benefited  by  this  privilege ; for,  though  certainly  far 
behind  the  King  of  Dahomey  in  regard  to  the  number  of 
wives,  yet  his  harem  boasted  of  one  hundred  and  six  enchant- 
ing beauties ! 

In  case  of  the  death  of  the  king,  the  son  of  his  favorite 
wife  succeeds  him ; but  if  he  has  no  male  issue  by  this  woman, 
her  daughter  then  assumes  the  sovereignty.  The  Princess 
Chi  pan ga  was  the  intended  successor  to  Nangoro.  My  friend 
thought  that  his  bearded  face  had  made  an  impression  on 
this  amiable  lady ; but,  though  experience  has  since  taught 
us  that  he  was  by  no  means  averse  to  matrimony,  he  pre- 
ferred to  settle  his  affections  on  one  of  his  own  fair  country- 
women rather  than  marry  the  “ greasy  negress”  Chipanga, 
heiress  of  Ondonga. 

We  read  of  nations  who  are  supposed  to  be  destitute  of 
any  religious  principles  whatever.  If  we  had  placed  reliance 
on  what  the  natives  themselves  told  us,  we  should  have  set 
down  the  Ovambo  as  one  of  such  benighted  races.  But  can 
there  be  so  deplorable  a condition  of  the  human  mind  ? Does 


RELIGION A FUTURE  STATE. 


199 


not  all  nature  forbid  it  ? Do  not  the  sun,  the  moon,  the  stars, 
the  solemn  night,  and  cheerful  dawn,  announce  a Creator 
even  to  the  children  of  the  wilderness  ? Is  it  not  proclaim- 
ed in  the  awful  voice  of  thunder,  and  written  on  the  sky  by 

u the  most  terrible  and  nimble  stroke 
Of  quick,  cross  lightning  ?” 

Is  it  possible  that  any  reasoning  creature  can  be  so  degraded 
as  not  to  have  some  notion,  however  faint  and  inadequate, 
of  an  Almighty  Being  ? Such  a conception  is  necessarily  in- 
cluded, more  or  less,  in  all  forms  of  idolatry,  even  the  most 
absurd  and  bestial.  The  indefinable  apprehensions  of  a sav- 
age, and  his  dread  of  something  which  he  can  not  describe, 
are  testimonies  that  at  least  he  suspects  (however  dimly  and 
ignorantly)  that  the  visible  is  not  the  whole.  This  may  be 
the  germ  of  religion — the  first  uncouth  approaches  of  “ faith” 
as  the  “ evidence  of  things  not  seen” — the  distant  and  im- 
perfectly-heard announcement  of  a God. 

May  not  our  incorrect  ideas  on  this  head,  in  reference  to 
the  Ovambo,  be  attributed  to  want  of  time  and  insufficient 
knowledge  of  their  language,  habits,  and  shyness  in  reveal- 
ing such  matters  to  strangers'?  When  interrogating  our 
guide  on  the  subject  of  religion,  he  would  abruptly  stop  us 
with  a 66  Hush !”  Does  not  this  ejaculation  express  awe  and 
reverence,  and  a deep  sense  of  his  own  utter  insufficiency  to 
enter  on  so  solemn  a theme  1 The  Ovambo  always  evinced 
much  uneasiness  whenever,  in  alluding  to  the  state  of  man 
after  death,  we  mentioned  Nangoro.  “ If  you  speak  in  that 
manner,”  they  said,  in  a whisper,  “ and  it  should  come  to  the 
hearing  of  the  king,  he  will  think  that  you  may  want  to  kill 
him.”  They,  moreover,  hinted  that  similar  questions  might 
materially  hurt  our  interest,  which  was  too  direct  a hint  to  be 
misunderstood.  To  speak  of  the  death  of  a king  or  chief,  or 
merely  to  allude  to  the  heir-apparent,  many  savage  nations 
consider  equivalent  to  high  treason. 

As  already  said,  the  Ovambo  surround  their  dwellings 


200 


FORM  AND  SIZE  OF  HOUSES. 


DWELLING-HOUSE  AND  CORN-STORES. 


with  high  palisades,  consisting  of  stout  poles  about  eight  or 
nine  feet  in  height,  fixed  firmly  in  the  ground  at  short  in- 
tervals from  each  other.  The  interior  arrangements  of  these 
inclosures  were  most  intricate.  They  comprised  the  dwell- 
ing-houses of  masters  and  attendants,  open  spaces  devoted  to 
amusement  and  consultation,  granaries,  pig-sties,  roosting- 
places  for  fowls,  the  cattle  kraal,  and  so  forth. 

Their  houses  are  of  a circular  form.  The  lower  part  con- 
sists of  slender  poles,  about  two  feet  six  inches  high,  driven 
into  the  ground,  and  farther  secured  by  means  of  cord,  &c., 
the  whole  being  plastered  over  with  clay.  The  roof,  which 
is  formed  of  rushes,  is  not  unlike  that  of  a bee-hive.  The 
height  of  the  whole  house,  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the 
“hive,”  does  not  much  exceed  four  feet,  while  in  circumfer- 
ence it  is  about  sixteen. 

They  store  the  grain  in  gigantic  baskets,  generally  manu- 
factured from  palm-leaves,  plastered  with  clay,  and  covered 


ANIMALS PICTURESQUE  VIEW. 


201 


with  nearly  the  same  material  and  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
dwelling-houses.  They  are,  moreover,  of  every  dimension, 
and  by  means  of  a frame-work  of  wood  are  raised  about  a 
foot  from  the  ground. 

The  domestic  animals  of  the  Ovambo  are  the  ox,  the 
sheep,  the  goat,  the  pig,  the  dog,  and  the  barn-door  fowl. 
The  latter  was  of  a small  breed,  a kind  of  bantam,  very  hand- 
some, and,  if  properly  fed  and  housed,  the  hens  would  lay 
eggs  daily. 

The  wet  season  in  these  latitudes  commences  about  the 
same  period  as  in  Damara-land,  that  is,  in  October  and  No- 
vember. When  the  first  heavy  rains  are  over,  the  Ovambo 
begin  to  sow  grain,  &c. ; but  they  plant  tobacco  in  the  dry 


VIEW  IN  ONDONGA.* 


* The  above  wood-cut  is  a view  of  the  country  near  Nangoro’s  resi- 
dence. The  huts  in  the  distance  are  those  of  Bushmen.  A great 
number  of  these  people  dwell  among  the  Ovambo,  to  whom  they  stand 
in  a kind  of  vassalage  and  relationship. 

I 2 


202 


HUSBANDRY IVORY BEADS. 


time  of  the  year.  Both  sexes  assist  in  tilling  the  ground, 
which,  near  the  surface,  consists  of  a flinty  sand-soil.  A 
short  distance  beneath  blue  clay  appears.  The  land  must 
be  rich  and  fertile,  as  manure  is  seldom  made  use  of.  The 
only  farm-implement  we  saw  in  use  among  the  Ovambo  was 
a kind  of  hoe  of  very  rude  workmanship.  Instead  of  culti- 
vating a whole  piece  of  ground,  as  with  us,  they  simply  dig 
a hole  here  and  there,  in  which  they  deposit  a handfull  of  corn. 
When  a little  above  ground,  those  seedlings  which  are  too 
.thick  are  transplanted.  The  process  of  reaping,  cleaning, 
and  grinding  falls  almost  exclusively  on  the  women.  The 
grain  is  reduced  to  flour  by  means  of  a stout  pole  in  a kind 
of  mortar  or  hollow  wooden  tube.  While  the  females  are 
thus  employed,  some  of  the  men  tend  to  the  herding  of  the 
cattle,  and  the  rest  make  trading  excursions  to  the  neigh- 
boring tribes. 

The  chief  article  of  export  is  ivory,  which  they  procure 
from  elephants  caught  in  pitfalls.  In  exchange  for  this  they 
obtain  beads,  iron,  copper,  shells,  cowries,  &c. ; and  such  ar- 
ticles as  they  do  not  consume  themselves  they  sell  to  the 
Damaras.  As  far  as  we  could  learn,  they  make  four  expedi- 
tions annually  into  Damara-land,  two  by  the  way  of  Okama- 
buti,  and  two  by  that  of  Omaruru.  The  return  for  these  sev- 
eral journeys,  on  an  average,  would  seem  to  be  about  eight 
hundred  head  of  cattle.  Since  we  were  in  the  country,  how- 
ever, it  is  probable  that  great  changes  may  have  taken  place. 

Next  to  their  cattle  they  prize  beads ; but,  though  they 
never  refuse  whatever  is  offered  to  them,  there  are  some  sorts 
that  they  more  especially  value,  and  it  is  of  very  great  im- 
portance to  the  traveler  and  the  trader  to  be  aware  of  this, 
as,  in  reality,  beads  constitute  his  only  money  or  means  of 
exchange.  Thus,  throughout  Ondonga,  large  red  (oval  or 
cylindrically-shaped),  large  bluish  white,  small  dark  indigo, 
small  black  (spotted  with  red),  and  red,  in  general,  are  more 
particularly  in  request. 


METALLURGY. 


203 


The  Ovambo  have  some  slight  knowledge  of  metallurgy. 
Though  no  mineral  is  indigenous  to  their  own  country,  they 
procure  copper  and  iron  ore  in  abundance  from  their  neigh- 
bors, which  they  smelt  in  fire-proof  crucibles.  The  bellows 
employed  in  heating  the  iron  are  very  indifferent,  and  stones 
serve  as  substitutes  for  hammer  and  anvil.  Yet,  rude  as 
these  implements  are,  they  manage  not  only  to  manufacture 
their  own  ornaments  and  farming  tools,  but  almost  all  the 
iron-ware  used  in  barter. 


BLACKSMITHS  AT  WORK. 


204 


THE  RIVER  CUNENE. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  River  Cunene. — The  Travelers  are  Prisoners  at  large. — Kingly 
Revenge. — Kingly  Liberality. — Depart  from  Ondonga. — Sufferings 
and  Consequences  resulting  from  Cold. — Return  to  Okamabuti. — 
Damara  Women  murdered  by  Bushmen. — Preparations  for  Jour- 
• ney. — Obtain  Guides. — Depart  from  Tjopopa’s  Werft. — Game  abun- 

dant.— Author  and  three  Lions  stalk  Antelopes  in  Company. — Ex- 
traordinary Visitation. — The  Rhinoceros’s  Guardian  Angel. — The 
Textor  Erythrorhynchus.  — The  Amadina  Squamifrons;  singular 
Construction  of  its  Nest. — Return  to  Barmen. 

Many  years  previously  to  our  visit  to  the  Ovambo,  a 
French  frigate  discovered  the  embouchure  of  a magnificent 
river  known  as  Cunene,  between  the  seventeenth  and  eight- 
eenth degrees  of  south  latitude.  Other  vessels  were  sent  out 
to  explore  it,  and  to  ascertain  its  course,  &c.,  but,  strange  to 
say,  they  searched  for  it  in  vain  !* 

The  discoverers  could  not,  however,  have  been  mistaken ; 
and  as  we  now  approached  the  latitudes  in  question,  we 
made  inquiries,  and  soon  found  that  only  four  days’  travel 
north  of  Ondonga  there  existed  a river  of  great  size,  which 
we  doubted  not  was  identical  with  Cunene ; and  farther  in- 
quiry fully  corroborated  this  supposition.  A runaway  slave 
from  Benguela,  who  was  living  at  the  time  among  the  Ovam- 
bo,  informed  us  that  in  its  upper  course  (or  rather  another 
branch)  this  river  is  called  Mukuru  Mukovanja,  but  that  in 
its  lower  course  it  is  designated  Cunene.  Moreover,  that, 
though  of  very  considerable  size,  and  containing  a large  vol- 
ume of  water,  it  does  not  always  find  its  way  directly  into 
the  sea.  Pie  declared  the  cause  of  this  to  be  the  formation 

* Captain  Messum,  master  of  a merchant  vessel,  subsequently  in- 
formed me  that  he  has  seen  it. 


THE  RIVER  CUNENE PRISONERS  AT  LARGE.  205 

of  sand-banks  at  its  mouth,  which  compels  it  to  take  a sub- 
terraneous course.  Occasionally,  however,  it  breaks  through 
these  barriers.  This  was  exceedingly  interesting,  inasmuch 
as  it  explained  the  cause  of  its  mysterious  disappearance. 

The  Ovambo  themselves  gave  us  to  understand  that  they 
often  extended  their  trading  excursions  to  the  Cunene,  and 
even  crossed  it  by  means  of  canoes.  The  people  dwelling  on 
its  south  bank  were  called  Ovapangari  (a  few  of  whom  we 
saw  in  Ondonga)  and  Ovabundya.  The  latter  were  repre- 
sented as  living  among  “many  waters,”  which  we  conjee-  . 
tured  meant  the  confluence  of  some  of  the  branches. 

Our  curiosity  to  see  the  Cunene  was  greatly  aroused, 
though,  in  order  to  accomplish  this  object,  it  would  be  neces- 
sary to  overcome  many  difficulties.  Pleasant  as  our  arrival 
and  stay  at  Ondonga  had  generally  been,  it  was  in  some  re- 
spects attended  with  much  inconvenience.  The  freedom  we 
had  enjoyed  to  such  perfection  among  the  Damaras  ceased 
with  our  entrance  into  Ovambo-land.  We  could  hardly  stir 
half  a mile  from  our  camp  without  having  first  obtained  the 
permission  of  our  despotic  friend,  and  much  less  could  we 
think  of  returning  or  proceeding.  We  had  left  half  our  par- 
ty behind  us  in  a savage  and  inhospitable  country  without  a 
sufficiency  of  provisions.  Our  own  stores  were  very  deficient 
in  animal  food.  No  pasturage  was  left  in  Ondonga  but  corn- 
stubble,  or  rather  corn-stalks ; and  of  this,  as  well  as  of  wa- 
ter, the  inhabitants  were  extremely  tenacious.  The  conse- 
quence was  that  the  poor  cattle  daily  fell  off  in  condition. 
We  were  already,  two  long  weeks’  journey  distant  from  our 
camp  at  Okamabuti,  and  to  undertake  an  excursion  to  the 
Cunene,  and  return,  would  occupy  fully  another  fortnight, 
making  thus,  at  the  very  least,  a whole  month’s  actual  trav- 
el. This,  we  feared,  was  more  than  our  emaciated  cattle 
were  equal  to.  Yet,  notwithstanding  all  these  formidable 
difficulties,  the  enterprise  was  of  such  great  importance  that 
we  determined  not  to  give  it  up  without  a struggle.  Unless 


206  ROYAL  REVENGE DEPART  FROM  ONDONGA. 

we  could  obtain  the  consent  and  assistance  of  Nangoro,  we 
were  aware  that  all  our  efforts  would  be  unavailing.  Ac- 
cordingly, we  informed  him  of  our  plans,  with  a request  that 
he  would  provide  us  with  guides.  But  he  sulkily  replied 
that,  as  we  did  not  choose  to  kill  elephants  for  him,  he  could 
not  oblige  us  in  this  matter ! Under  any  circumstances  such 
ungenerous  conduct  would  have  been  highly  vexatious ; but, 
in  our  situation,  we  could  only  submit,  and  hope  it  was  all 
for  the  best,  and  that  which  his  majesty  intended  an  act  of 
revenge  might  in  the  end  be  the  means  of  saving  ourselves. 

Thus  frustrated  in  our  plans,  and  having  seen  and  ascer- 
tained every  thing  we  could  in  the  country,  we  at  once  de- 
termined to  retrace  our  steps.  However,  after  what  had  just 
fallen  from  the  lips  of  the  chief,  it  was  not  without  some  mis- 
givings that  we  waited  to  know  his  wishes  and  intentions 
with  regard  to  our  departure.  But  there  was  no  cause  for 
anxiety.  Having  squeezed  every  thing  out  of  us  that  would 
have  been  of  any  use  to  him,  he  was  evidently  but  too  well 
pleased  to  see  us  leave  his  territory,  which  would  relieve  him 
from  the  necessity  of  making  us  any  presents.  During  our 
stay  in  Ondonga,  all  that  this  royal  miser  gave  us  was  a 
small  basket  of  flour ; though,  on  our  finally  leaving  his  do- 
minion, he  ordered  one  of  his  “ bread-eaters,”  who  accom- 
panied us  as  guide  to  the  frontier,  to  levy  a tribute  of  corn 
on  his  subjects  for  our  behoof;  but  this  largess,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  others,  came  too  late,  as  we  had  already  laid  in  a 
sufficient  stock  of  the  staff  of  life,  which  we  had  obtained 
from  the  natives  by  barter. 

The  13th  of  June  was  fixed  for  our  departure.  We  were 
not,  however,  able  to  get  away  till  two  days  later.  On  the 
18th  we  were  fairly  out  of  sight  of  the  fertile  plains  of  On- 
donga. Nangoro  had  originally  promised  to  send  our  old 
friend  Chikor’onkombe  back  with  us  ; but  the  fellow  abrupt- 
ly and  treacherously  deserted  us.  This  proved  of  great  in- 
convenience ; and  it  was  only  l>y  exerting  all  our  ingenuity 


DEPART  FROM  ONDONGA ARRIVAL  AT  OKAMABUTI.  207 

that  we  ultimately  succeeded  in  finding  our  way  home.  As 
has  been  already  said,  there  were  no  landmarks  by  which 
we  could  steer. 

The  nights  had  now  become  bitterly  cold.  In  crossing  the 
O tj ihako-tj a-Mutey  a we  were  obliged  to  bivouac  on  this 
bleak  and  exposed  plain  without  a particle  of  fuel.  What 
with  the  piercing  wind  and  low  temperature,  it  was  one  of 
the  most  trying  nights  I remember  to  have  spent  in  Africa. 
Indeed,  I hardly  ever  felt  the  cold  more  during  the  most  se- 
vere Scandinavian  winter.  Even  the  cattle  were  so  exceed- 
ingly distressed  that  several  of  our  best  draft-oxen  never 
thoroughly  recovered.  Our  poor  Damaras  suffered  fearful- 
ly ; and  it  was  only  by  huddling  themselves  together  at  the 
bottom  of  a dried-up  well  that  they  were  enabled  to  keep  the 
least  warmth  in  their  bodies.  Timbo,  however,  appeared  to 
be  the  greatest  sufferer.  One  morning  we  were  amazed  at 
finding  his  dark,  shiny  skin  suddenly  changed  into  a pale 
ashy  gray. 

Owing  to  the  scarcity  of  water  at  this  time  of  the  year, 
game  was  rare.  Indeed,  we  only  met  with  animals,  such  as 
the  giraffe,  the  koodoo,  the  gemsbok,  the  eland,  &c.,  that  ei- 
ther wholly  or  in  great  part  can  do  without  water. 

On  the  1st  of  July,  after  about  a fortnight’s  steady  travel, 
we  reached  our  encampment  in  safety.  The  two  hundred 
miles  of  country  we  had  crossed  presented,  perhaps,  as  dreary 
and  uninteresting  a prospect  as  can  well  be  imagined. 

In  our  absence,  Tjopopa,  with  his  people,  left  Okamabuti, 
and  removed  a few  miles  farther  to  the  westward.  Our  men 
followed  his  example.  On  approaching  the  camp,  we  espied 
Hans  perched  in  the  top  of  a tree  anxiously  looking  out  for 
our  return.  The  whole  party  was  almost  wild  with  delight 
at  seeing  us  safe  back,  of  which  they  began  to  despair.  They 
had  passed  a most  dreary  time.  The  natives,  though  friend- 
ly, teased  and  annoyed  them  excessively  with  begging  and 
even  pilfering,  the  chief,  as  not  unfrequently  happens,  hav- 


208 


GAME  SCARCE BUSHMEN GUIDES. 


ing  been  the  most  importunate  of  the  whole  lot.  Moreover, 
he  had  not  paid  his  debt,  nor  would  he  sell  Hans  any  more 
cattle ; and,  as  there  was  then  very  little  game  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, they  were  so  pressed  for  food  that  Hans  was  obliged 
to  reduce  the  men’s  allowances  very  considerably.  Our  Da- 
mara  servants  lived  for  some  time  solely  on  such  birds  and 
small  animals  as  they  could  kill  by  means  of  the  dogs.  For- 
tunately, Hans  possessed  some  tobacco;  and,  while  the  na- 
tives refused  every  thing  else,  he  was  able  to  obtain  a few 
sheep  for  this  article,  which  proved  a most  opportune  supply. 

Not  many  days  previous  to  our  arrival  eight  Damara  wom- 
en had  been  surprised  by  the  Bushmen  and  unmercifully  put 
to  death.  This,  however,  was  not  to  be  wondered  at,  for  the 
Damaras  themselves  are  always  waging  an  exterminating 
war  on  the  Bushmen.  Indeed,  they  hunt  them  down,  wher- 
ever met  with,  like  wild  beasts. 

Hans  had  succeeded  in  repairing  the  wagon  most  satis- 
factorily ; and  the  oxen,  though  rather  lean,  were  in  tolera- 
bly good  working  order.  We  now  determined  to  turn  our 
faces  homeward  without  a moment’s  delay.  A very  few 
days  were  sufficient  to  enable  us  to  complete  the  final  prepa- 
rations. 

By  this  time  all  the  pools  of  rain-water  which  had  be- 
friended us  on  our  journey  northward  were  dried  up,  and  it 
would  therefore  have  been  impossible  to  retrace  our  steps 
by  the  same  route.  The  Damaras  strongly  advised  us  to 
strike  the  Omuramba-k’ Omatako  at  a certain  point,  and 
by  following  its  course  they  assured  us  we  should  find  water 
and  pasturage  in  abundance.  One  man,  in  particular,  who 
had  always  shown  himself  civil  and  obliging,  offered  to  act 
as  guide  the  first  part  of  the  way ; for  the  remainder  we 
secured  the  services  of  a lad  professing  to  be  well  acquainted 
with  the  country.  Having  on  so  many  occasions  been  de- 
ceived by  the  natives,  we  did  not  much  relish  the  idea  of 
again  trusting  ourselves  to  their  guidance.  However,  there 


DEPART  FROM  TJOPOPA’S  WERFT. 


209 


was  no  alternative  ; and  in  this  instance,  to  do  justice  to  the 
men,  I must  say  they  not  only  spoke  the  truth,  but  perform- 
ed their  services  most  satisfactorily. 

Without  bidding  farewell  to  Tjopopa,  who  throughout  had 
treated  us  inhospitably,  we  yoked  our  oxen  on  the  5th  of 
July,  and  after  about  three  days’  travel  arrived  in  the  Omu- 
ramba.  At  this  point  the  river  (or  rather  the  river-bed)  ap- 
peared to  cease  altogether ; but  the  natives  declared  that  it 
continued  to  flow  toward  the  Ovatjona  or  Matjo’na.  I have 
since  ascertained  that  they  alluded  to  the  Bechuana  country. 
Hence  we  traveled  steadily  up  toward  its  source.  Its  bed, 
which  sometimes  spread  out  into  a flat,  and  at  others  formed 
a narrow  channel,  afforded  us  always  a good  and  open  road. 
The  country  on  both  sides  was  hemmed  in  by  an  apparently 
endless  thorn  coppice.  We  usually  found  water  daily,  at  first 
in  pools,  but  afterward  exclusively  in  wells,  varying  in  depth 
from  a few  feet  to  as  much  as  forty.  These  were  generally 
choked  up  with  sand,  and  it  often  occupied  us  half  a day  to 
clean  them  out.  I remember,  on  one  occasion,  working  hard, 
with  a party  consisting  of  about  thirty  men  and  women, 
during  upward  of  twenty  hours,  before  we  could  obtain  a 
sufficiency  of  water.  It  was  cold  work ; for  about  sunrise 
the  ice  was  often  half  an  inch  thick,  and  we  had  no  water- 
proof boots  to  protect  our  feet. 

Game  now  became  abundant.  We  managed  to  kill  suffi- 
cient for  the  table  without  being  obliged  to  have  recourse  to 
our  few  remaining  live-stock.  I saw  here  for  the  first  time 
that  magnificent  antelope,  the  eland. 

Beasts  of  prey  were  likewise  numerous.  Indeed,  they 
always  follow  the  larger  game.  During  the  nights  we  were 
constantly  annoyed  by  the  dismal  howlings  of  the  hyaenas ; 
and  we  had  some  very  exciting  foot-chases  after  these  animals. 

While  out  hunting  early  one  morning  I espied  a small 
troop  of  gnoos  quietly  grazing  at  a bend  of  the  river.  Cau- 
tiously approaching  them  under  shelter  of  the  intervening 


210  STALKING  GNOOS  IN  COMPANY  WITH  LIONS. 

ground,  they  suddenly  tossed ‘their  heads,  switched  their  tails, 
scraped  the  earth  impatiently  with  their  hoofs,  and  sniffed  the 
air.  I was  puzzled  how  to  account  for  this  unusual  agita- 
tion, as,  from  my  position,  I was  certain  they  could  not  have 
discovered  me.  But  I had  not  much  time  for  conjecture,  for 
the  next  instant  I was  startled  by  the  growl  of  some  animal 
close  to  me.  On  looking  in  the  direction  whence  it  proceed- 
ed, I discovered,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  two  lions  and  a 
lioness  on  the  rising  ground  just  above  me,  and,  as  it  seem- 
ed, they  also  were  on  the  look-out  for  the  gnoos.*  I instinct- 
ively leveled  my  piece  at  the  head  of  the  nearest  of  the  beasts ; 
but  a moment’s  reflection  convinced  me  that  the  odds  were 
too  great,  and  I therefore  thought  it  best  to  reserve  my  fire, 
so  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  receive  them  should  they  charge. 
After  having  regarded  me  for  a few  seconds,  however,  they 
growlingly  disappeared  behind  a sand-hill. 

By  this  time  the  gnoos  had  become  aware  of  the  lions, 
and  were  making  off  at  the  top  of  their  speed.  Being  anx- 
ious to  obtain  a shot  at  them,  I followed  on  their  tracks,  but 
soon  found,  to  my  dismay,  that  my  three  royal  friends,  with 
jaws  distended  and  uttering  furious  growls,  were  following  a 
course  parallel  to  mine.  Though  I must  confess  I did  not 
at  all  like  their  looks,  as  only  excessive  hunger  could  have 
induced  them,  in  broad  day,  to  seek  for  victims,  I neverthe- 
less continued  to  follow  the  tracks  of  the  antelopes  until  they 
led  me  into  the  bush,  where  I presently  lost  them  as  well  as 
myself. 

On  first  seeing  the  gnoos,  I left  my  henchman  “Bill,”  a 
Damara  lad,  who  carried  my  spare  gun,  at  some  distance 
behind,  with  directions  to  follow  on  my  track  according  to 
circumstances.  Now  that  the  gnoos  were  lost  to  me,  I shout- 
ed loudly  to  the  youth,  and  also  discharged  my  gun  more  than 

* The  plate  facing  the  page  represents  two  lions  observing  me,  while 
the  lioness,  not  yet  aware  of  my  presence,  is  still  eagerly  pushing  on 
toward  the  intended  victims. 


UNWELCOME  HUNTING  COMPANIONS 


UNWELCOME  HUNTING  COMPANIONS. 


211 


212 


EXTRAORDINARY  VISITATION. 


once,  but  was  unable  to  elicit  a reply.  Thinking,  however, 
that  he  might  have  returned  to  our  encampment  (which  was 
at  no  great  distance),  I also  repaired  there.  But  “ Bill”  had 
not  been  heard  of.  The  harassing  suspicion  at  once  crossed 
my  mind  that  the  lions  had  eaten  him.  Without  a moment’s 
delay,  I hurried  back  to  the  spot  where  I had  last  seen  the 
beasts,  but  all  my  endeavors  to  find  the  poor  fellow  were 
unavailing.  What  with  anxiety  on  his  account,  and  my  ex- 
ertions under  a broiling  sun  (for  if  the  weather  was  frosty 
at  night,  it  calcined  one  by  day),  I was  unable  to  proceed 
farther,  and  sat  myself  down  on  the  ground  to  wait  for  the 
arrival  of  the  wagons,  which  were  now  moving  forward. 
Just  at  this  moment,  the  Damara,  to  my  inexpressible  de- 
light, emerged  from  the  bush.  His  story  was  soon  told. 
He  had,  like  myself,  lost  his  way,  and  it  was  long  before  he 
was  able  to  recover  the  right  track. 

One  morning,  as  we  were  about  to  yoke  the  oxen,  we  were 
amused  to  see  them  suddenly  start  off  in  every  direction  in 
the  wildest  confusion,  and  cutting  the  most  ridiculous  capers. 
The  cause  of  this  commotion  was  the  arrival  of  a large  flock 
of  the  buphaga  Africana , which  alighted  on  the  backs  of  the 
cattle  for  the  purpose  of  feeding  on  the  ticks  with  which  their 
hides  are  covered.  By  means  of  their  long  claws  and  elastic 
tails,  these  birds  are  enabled  to  cling  to  and  search  every  part 
of  the  beast.  It  was  evident,  however,  that  our  oxen  had 
never  experienced  a similar  visitation ; no  wonder,  there- 
fore, that  they  were  taken  somewhat  aback  at  being  thus 
unceremoniously  assailed. 

The  buphaga  Africana  is  also  a frequent  companion  of  the 
rhinoceros,  to  which,  besides  being  of  service  in  ridding  him 
of  many  of  the  insects  that'  infest  his  hide,  it  performs  the 
Important  part  of  sentinel.  On  many  occasions  has  this 
watchful  bird  prevented  me  from  getting  a shot  at  that  beast. 
The  moment  it  suspects  danger,  it  flies  almost  perpendicu- 
larly up  into  the  air,  uttering  sharp,  shrill  notes,  that  nev- 


birds’  nests  used  for  wadding.  213 

er  fail  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  rhinoceros,  who,  with- 
out waiting  to  ascertain  the  cause,  almost  instantly  seeks 
safety  in  a precipitate  flight.  According  to  Mr.  Gumming, 
these  birds  also  attend  upon  the  hippopotamus. 

Another  bird  ( textor  erythrorhynchus)  is  also  in  the  habit 
of  feeding  upon  parasitical  insects,  but  is  said  to  restrict  its 
visits  to  the  buffalo.  In  the  part  of  Damara-land  of  which  I 
am  now  speaking,  that  animal  is  unknown,  yet  the  bird  was 
in  very  great  numbers.  It  appeared  to  be  very  social  in  its 
habits,  living  in  colonies,  and  building  its  nest,  which  consists 
of  dry  sticks,  on  lofty  trees. 

We  also  made  acquaintance  with  a small,  sparrow-looking 
bird,  the  amadina  squamifrons , which  deserves  notice  on  ac- 
count of  its  peculiar  and  interesting  nest.  According  to  Dr. 
Andrew  Smith,  this  is  placed  on  a small  shrub,  and  is  con- 
structed of  grass.  But  in  Damara-land  and  parts  adjacent, 
the  materials  are  of  a beautifully  soft  texture,  not  unlike 
sheep’s  wool.  I never  could  discover  the  plant  from  which 
it  was  procured.  The  Hottentots  use  it  as  a substitute  for 
gun-wadding,  and  it  is  by  no  means  a bad  makeshift.  The 
nest  is  so  strongly  put  together  that  one  has  difficulty  in 
separating  it.  When  the  old  bird  absents  itself,  it  effectually 
conceals  the  opening  of  the  nest  from  view.  Even  long  after 
I was  acquainted  with  this  peculiarity,  I was  puzzled  to  find 
it  out.  Just  above  the  entrance  is  a small  hollow,  which  has 
no  communication  with  the  interior  of  the  nest,  but  which, 
by  the  uninitiated,  is  often  mistaken  for  it.  In  this  tube  the 
male  bird  sits  at  night. 

We  occasionally  fell  in  with  Damara  villages.  In  our 
journey  northward  the  natives  had  shown  themselves  ex- 
cessively timid  and  suspicious,  but  now  that  they  had  so 
many  evidences  of  our  peaceful  intentions,  they  approached 
our  camp  without  the  least  reserve  or  hesitation;  but  we 
could  not  induce  them  to  part  with  any  cattle,  of  which  we 
stood  much  in  need. 


214 


RETURN  TO  BARMEN THE  DAMARAS. 


On  the  26th  of  July  we  came  in  sight  of  Omatako,  and 
many  other  well  known  hills.  On  the  3d  of  August  we 
found  ourselves  at  Schmelen’s  Hope;  but  how  different  an 
aspect  did  it  present  to  that  which  lived  in  our  memory ! 
When  we  left  it  about  three  months  previously,  the  country 
was  covered  with  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation.  Since 
then,  the  Damaras  had  been  encamping  there  with  their  cat- 
tle, and  we  were  now  unable  to  obtain  sufficient  pasturage 
for  our  animals.  The  water,  moreover,  was  all  but  exhausted. 

On  the  following  day,  the  4th  of  August,  we  continued 
our  journey  to  Barmen,  where  we  arrived  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  same  day  safe  and  well. 

Thus  ended  an  expedition  which,  although  it  might  not 
have  been  so  successful  as  we  had  anticipated,  was  not  with- 
out its  fruits. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

The  Damaras. — Whence  they  came. — Their  Conquests. — The  Tide 
turns. — Damara-land  only  partially  inhabited.  — Climate. — Sea- 
sons.— Mythology.  — Religion.  — Superstitions. — Marriage. — Poly- 
gamy.— Children. — Circumcision. — Bury  their  Dead. — Way  they 
mourn. — Children  interred  alive. — Burial  of  the  Chief,  and  Super- 
stitions consequent  thereon. — Maladies. — Damaras  do  not  live  long; 
the  Cause  thereof. — Food. — Music  and  Dancing. — How  they  swear. 
— Power  of  the  Chieftain  limited. — Slothful  People. — Numerals. — 
Astronomy. — Domestic  Animals ; their  Diseases. 

Frequent  opportunities  had  by  this  time  been  afforded  me 
of  observing  and  studying  the  physical  features  of  the  coun- 
try, the  .character  of  the  natives,  and  their  religious  rites  and 
customs.  Having  previously  said  but  little  on  these  sub- 
jects, I propose  now  to  give  some  account  of  them.  Though, 
from  the  lying  habits  of  the  Damaras,  great  difficulty  ha? 
arisen  in  arriving  at  the  truth,  I believe  that  my  statements 
will  not  be  very  wide  of  the  mark.  Besides  the  concurrent 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  DAMARAS. 


215 


testimony  of  many  of  the  natives,  I have  had  the  satisfaction, 
on  comparing  my  notes  with  those  of  the  missionaries,  to 
find  them  agree  in  the  main  ; and  as  it  has  been  my  fate  to 
witness  the  complete  ruin  and  downfall  of  the  Damaras — 
who,  probably,  before  another  century  has  passed  away  will 
be  forgotten — I think  that  a connected  and  somewhat  detail- 
ed description  of  their  history  may  not  be  unacceptable  to 
the  general  reader. 

That  the  Damaras  have  not  resided  for  any  length  of  time 
in  the  country  which  they  now  occupy  is  quite  certain, 
though  whence  they  came  is  doubtful.  Some  of  these  peo- 
ple point  to  the  north  as  their  original  home ; others  con- 
jecture that  they  migrated  from  the  northeast.*  Be  this  as 
it  may,  it  would  appear  quite  certain  that  about  seventy  years 
ago  not  a Damara  was  to  be  found  south  of  the  Kaoko,  but 
that,  at  some  time  within  this  period,  they  invaded  the  coun- 
try, then  inhabited  by  Bushmen  and  Hill-Damaras,  the  last 
being  in  all  probability  the  aborigines.  Not  having  a war- 
like disposition,  the  Hill-Damaras  were  easily  subdued,  and 
those  who  were  not  killed  were  made  captives.  The  few 
that  escaped  took  refuge  among  the  mountains,  or  other  in- 
hospitable and  inaccessible  regions,  where  they  are  still  found 
dragging  on  a most  miserable  and  degraded  existence. 

The  Damaras  were  once,  undoubtedly,  a great  nation  ; 
but,  unlike  others  which  gradually  become  powerful  by  the 
union  of  a number  of  smaller  tribes  under  the  head  of  a sin- 
gle chief  or  king,  they  have  dwindled  into  an  endless  number 
of  petty  tribes,  ruled. by  as  many  chiefs. 

* In  my  journey  to  the  Lake  Ngami  at  an  after  period,  I observed 
whole  forests  of  a species  of  tree  called  Omumborombonga,  the  sup- 
posed progenitor  of  the  Damaras.  This  fact,  coupled  with  our  knowl- 
edge that  all  the  tribes  to  the  north  are  more  or  less  conversant  with 
agriculture,  of  which  the  Damaras  know  nothing  (having  no  word  in 
their  language  for  cereal  food),  and  that  many  of  the  nations  to  the 
east  are  partly  pastoral,  would  seem  to  indicate  a northeast  or  east 
direction  as  their  original  home. 


216 


THE  NAMAQUA-HOTTENTOTS. 


After  their  conquest  of  the  country,  the  Damaras  con- 
tinued to  extend  themselves,  without  much  opposition,  to  the 
east  nearly  as  far  as  Lake  Ngami,  and  to  about  the  twenty- 
fourth  degree  of  latitude  on  the  south.  At  both  these  points, 
however,  they  were  checked  in  their  onward  career.  At 
first  they  were  attacked  by  the  Matjo’nas,  with  whom,  from 
time  to  time,  they  had  several  desperate  conflicts ; and  though 
they  appear  to  have  fought  well,  they  wrere  ultimately  obliged 
to  retreat  with  considerable  loss.  But  it  was  from  the  Na- 
maqua-Hottentots  that  thay  were  destined  to  experience  the 
greatest  reverse,  by  whom,  as  will  by-and-by  be  shown,  they 
were  finally  destroyed  or  broken  up. 

About  the  period  of  the  conquest  alluded  to  a small  tribe 
of  Namaqua-Hottentots  had  pitched  their  tents  on  the  banks 
of  the  Orange  River,  under  the  rule  of  Jonker  Afrikaner,* 
who  was  then  a chief  of  only  secondary  importance ; yet,  as 
his  people  were  possessed  of  horses  and  fire-arms,  he  soon 
became  formidable  to  his  enemies.  The  territory  lying  be- 
tween him  and  the  Damaras  was  occupied  by  various  tribes 
of  Namaquas,  who,  on  finding  themselves  hard  pressed  by  the 
Damaras  sent  to  Jonker  to  demand  his  assistance.  This  he 
granted  ; and,  like  another  Csesar,  “ came,  saw,  and  con- 
quered.” Indeed,  that  day  sealed  the  fate  of  Damara-land. 
The  Namaquas,  at  first  the  oppressed,  became  in  their  turn 

* His  father,  Christian  Afrikaner,  once  lived  within  the  present 
boundary  of  the  Cape  Colony  ; but  his  brother  having  killed  a Dutch 
farmer,  from  whom  the  tribe  is  said  to  have  suffered  much  wrong,  he 
and  his  kindred  were  obliged  to  fly  the  country.  He  then  settled  on 
the  banks  of  the  Garib  or  Orange  River,  where  he  soon  became  famous 
for  his  daring  and  ferocious  exploits  against  his  neighbors.  In  this 
state  of  things  he  was  found  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Moffat,  well  known  for 
his  missionary  labors  in  Southern  Africa,  who,  after  having  experi- 
enced much  opposition,  finally  succeeded  in  converting  him  to  Chris- 
tianity. At  his  death  the  present  Jonker  Afrikaner,  though  an  elder 
brother  was  still  living,  assumed  the  chieftainship,  which  occasioned  a 
division  in  the  tribe,  and  was,  moreover,  the  original  cause  ciUheir 
migration  northward. 


CLIMATE SEASONS WHIRLWINDS. 


217 


the  oppressors.  In  proportion  as  they  grew  powerful  and 
successful,  the  prospect  of  booty,  which  the  vast  herds  of 
sleek  cattle  so  amply  afforded  them,  was  the  sole  object  of 
their  inroads  upon  the  Damaras.  They  appeared  to  have 
adopted  the  motto  of  the  old  sea-kings, 

“ That  they  should  take  who  have  the  power, 

And  they  should  keep  who  can.” 

From  my  first  arrival  in  the  country  to  the  time  I left  it 
— a period  of  less  than  four  years— the  Namaquas  had  de- 
prived the  Damaras  of  fully  one  half  of  their  cattle,  the  other 
portion  having  already  been  taken  from  them  previously  to 
my  visit.  With  the  loss  of  their  property  followed  that  of 
their  independence. 

Although  a large  tract  of  country  is  marked  on  the  maps 
as  Damara-land,  a small  portion  only  is  inhabitable.  This 
may  also  be  affirmed  of  Namaqua-land ; and  in  both  cases 
the  disparity  arises  either  from  scarcity  of  water  or  the  fre- 
quency of  inextricable  jungles  of  thorn-wood. 

Damara-land  being  situated  in  the  tropic  of  Capricorn, 
the  seasons  are  naturally  the  reverse  of  those  in  Europe. 
In  the  month  of  August,  when  our  summer  may  be  said  to 
be  at  an  end,  hot  westerly  winds  begin  to  blow,  which  quickly 
parch  up  and  destroy  the  vegetation.  At  the  same  time, 
whirlwinds  sweep  over  the  country  with  tremendous  veloc- 
ity, driving  along  vast  columns  of  sand  many  feet  in  diame- 
ter and  several  hundred  in  height.  At  times  ten  or  fifteen 
of  these  columns  may  be  seen  chasing  each  other.  The 
Damaras  designate  them  Orukumb’ombura,  or  rain-beggars, 
a most  appropriate  name,  as  they  usually  occur  just  before 
the  first  rains  fall. 

Showers,  accompanied  by  thunder  and  vivid  lightning,  are 
not  unusual  in  the  months  of  September  and  October,  but 
the  regular  rains  do  not  set  in  till  December  and  January, 
when  they  continue  with  but  slight  intermission  till  May. 
In  this  month  and  June  strong  easterly  winds  prevail,  which 


218 


MYTHOLOGY. 


are  not  only  disagreeable,  but  injurious  to  health.  The  lips 
crack,  ^nd  the  skin  feels  dry  and  harsh.  Occasionally,  at 
this  time,  tropical  rains  fall,  but  they  do  more  harm  than 
good,  as  a sudden  cold  which  annihilates  vegetation  is  inva- 
riably the  result.  In  July  and  August  the  nights  are  the 
coldest,  and  it  is  then  no  unusual  thing  to  find  ice  half  an 
inch  thick.  Snow  is  of  rare  occurrence. 

The  Damaras  and  the  Bechuanas  have  nearly  the  same 
notion  as  to  their  origin.  Thus  the  latter  believe  that  the 
founders  of  their  nation  and  the  animals  of  the  country 
emerged  from  a cave,  while  the  former  declare  that  they 
sprung  from  a tree.  When  men  ^nd  beasts  first  burst  from 
the  parent  tree — so  runs  the  tradition — all  was  enveloped  in 
profound  darkness.  A Damara  then  lit  a fire,  which  so  fright- 
ened the  zebra,  the  giraffe,  the  gnoo,  and  every  other  beast 
now  found  wild  in  the  country,  that  they  all  fled  from  the 
presence  of  man,  while  the  domestic  animals,  such  as  the  ox, 
the  sheep, ^ and  the  dog,  collected  fearlessly  round  the  blaz- 
ing brands. 

The  tree  from  which  the  Damaras  are  descended  is  to  be 
seen,  they  say,  at  a place  called  Omaruru.  But  somehow 
there  must  be  more  than  one  parent  tree,  for  both  in  going 
and  coming  we  met  with  several  Omumborombongas,  all  of 
which  the  natives  treated  with  filial  affection.! 

The  chief  deity  of  the  Damaras  is  called  Omukuru.  His 
abode  is  said  to  be  in  the  far  north ; but  it  would  be  some- 
what difficult  to  specify  his  attributes.  Each  tribe  is  sup- 
posed to  have  its  own  Omukuru,  to  whom  it  ascribes  all  its 
superstitious  habits  and  customs,  peculiarities,  &c.  The  tribe 
is  divided  into  castes  or  “eandas.”  Thus  there  are  Ovakue- 
yuba,  those  of  the  sun,  or  related  to  the  sun,  and  Ovakue- 
nombura,  those  related  to  the  rain,  &c.,  each  of  which  has 

* Some  Damaras  attribute  the  origin  of  the  sheep  to  a large  stone. 

f The  grain  of  this  tree  is  so  very  close,  and  the  wood  so  exceed- 
ingly weighty,  that  we  gave  it  the  name  of  the  “ iron  tree.” 


RELIGION WITCHCRAFT — SUPERSTITIONS. 


219 


its  peculiar  rites  and  superstitions.  These,  moreover,  are 
derived  from  the  mother,  and  not  from  the  father.  If  a man 
of  the  Ovakueyuba  marries  a woman  of  the  Ovakuenombura, 
their  offspring  adopt  the  notions,  &c.,  peculiar  to  the  latter, 
and  vice-versa.  They  can  not  account  for  this  division  of 
castes;  they  merely  say  it  is  derived  from  the  “wind.” 
Some  religious  notions,  no  doubt,  lie  at  the  bottom  of  this. 

Though  the  Damaras  do  not  profess  absolutely  to  believe 
in  a life  hereafter,  they  have  a confused  notion  of  a future 
state.  Thus  they  not  unfrequently  bring  provisions  to  the 
grave  of  a deceased  friend  or  relation,  requesting  him  to  eat 
and  make  merry.  In  return,  they  invoke  his  blessing,  and 
pray  for  success  against  their  enemies,  an  abundance  of  cattle, 
numerous  wives,  and  prosperity  in  their  undertakings. 

The  spirits  of  deceased  persons  are  believed  to  appear  after 
death,  but  are  then  seldom  seen  in  their  natural  form.  They 
usually  assume  on  such  occasions  the  shape  of  a dog,  having, 
not  unfrequently,  the  foot  of  an  ostrich*  Any  individual 
to  whom  such  an  apparition  (Otjruru)  might  appear,  es- 
pecially if  it  should  follow  and  accost  him,  is  supposed  to  die 
soon  after. 

The  Damaras  have  great  faith  in  witchcraft.  Individuals 
versed  in  the  , black  art  are  called  Omundu-Onganga,  or 
Omundu-Ondyai,  and  are  much  sought  after.  Any  person 
falling  sick  is  immediately  attended  by  one  of  these  impostors, 
whose  panacea  is  to  besmear  the  mouth  and  the  forehead  of 
the  patient  with  the  ordure  of  the  hysena,  which  is  supposed 
to  possess  particularly  healing  virtues.  The  sorcerer,  more- 
over, makes  signs  and  conjurations. 

Some  very  singular  superstitions  about  meat  exist  among 
the  Damaras.  Thus  a man  will  perhaps  not  eat  the  flesh  of 
an  ox  which  may  happen  to  be  marked  with  black,  white,  or 
red  spots.  Others  refuse  to  partake  of  a sheep  should  it 
have  no  horns ; while  some  would  not  touch  the  meat  of 
draft-oxen,  according  to  the  rule  of  the  “eanda”  to  which 


220 


SUPERSTITION. 


he  belongs.  If  meat  is  offered  a Damara,  he  will  accept  it ; 
but,  before  he  ventures  to  eat  it,  he  carefully  inquires  about 
the  color  of  the  animal,  whether  it  had  horns,  &c. ; and 
should  it  prove  forbidden  food,  he  will  in  all  probability 
leave  it  untouched,  even  though  he  might  be  dying  of  hunger. 
Some  even  carry  their  scruples  so  far  as  to  avoid  coming  in 
contact  with  vessels  in  which  such  food  has  been  cooked; 
nay,  even  the  smoke  of  the  fire  by  which  it  is  prepared  is 
considered  injurious.  Hence  the  religious  superstitions  of 
these  people  often  expose  them  to  no  small  amount  of  incon- 
venience and  suffering. 

The  fat  of  particular  animals  is  supposed  to  possess  certain 
virtues,  and  is  carefully  collected  and  kept  in  vessels  of  a 
peculiar  kind.  A small  portion  of  this  is  given  in  solution, 
with  water,  to  persons  who  return  safely  to  their  homes  after 
a lengthened  absence  at  the  cattle-posts.  The  chief  also 
makes  use  of  it  as  an  unguent  for  his  body. 

When  an  ox  accidentally  dies  at  a chiefs  werft,  his  daugh- 
ter (the  offspring,  probably,  of  his  favorite  or  chief  wife)  ties 
a double  knot  on  her  leather  apron.  Should  this  be  neglected, 
a “ curse”  is  believed  to  be  the  consequence.  She  also  places 
a piece  of  wood  on  the  back  of  the  dead  animal,  praying  at 
the  same  time  for  long  life,  plenty  of  cattle,  &c.  This  wom- 
an is  called  Ondangere,  and  is  to  the  Damaras  what  the 
vestal  was  among  the  ancient  Romans ; for,  besides  attending 
to  the  sacrifices,  it  is  her  duty  to  keep  up  the  “holy  fire” 
(Omurangere). 

Outside  the  chief’s  hut,  where  he  is  accustomed  to  sit  in 
the  daytime,  a fire  is  always  kept  burning ; but,  in  case  of 
rain  or  bad  weather,  it  is  transferred  to  the  hut  of  the  priest- 
ess, who,  should  it  be  deemed  advisable  to  change  the  site  of 
the  village,  precedes  the  oxen  with  a portion  of  this  conse- 
crated fire,  every  possible  care  being  taken  to  prevent  it  from 
being  extinguished.  Should,  however,  this  calamity  happen, 
the  whole  tribe  is  immediately  assembled,  and  large  expiatory 


SUPERSTITION. 


221 


offerings  of  cattle  are  made,  after  which  the  fire  is  relit  in 
the  primitive  way,  namely,  by  friction.  This  again  reminds 
us  of  the  “ holy  fire”  of  the  Romans,  which,  under  similar  cir- 
cumstances, could  only  be  relit  by  fire  from  heaven. 

A portion  of  such  fire  is  also  given  to  the  head  man  of  a 
kraal  when  about  to  remove  from  that  of  the  chief.  The 
duties  of  a vestal  then  devolve  on  the  daughter  of  the  emi- 
grant. 

For  every  wild  animal  that  a young  man  destroys,  his  fa- 
ther makes  four  small  oblong  incisions  on  the  front  of  the 
son’s  body  as  marks  of  honor  and  distinction.  He  is,  more- 
over, presented  with  a sheep  or  cow.  If  either  of  these  should 
produce  young  ones,  they  are  slaughtered  and  eaten,  but  only 
males  are  allowed  to  partake  of  such  food. 

The  chief  of  a kraal  must  always  taste  the  provisions  be- 
fore they  can  be  eaten  by  the  rest  of  the  tribe.  Though 
sweet  milk,  when  boiled,  may  be  freely  drunk  by  the  women 
and  children,  it  is  more  commonly  swallowed  in  an  acid 
state. 

Should  a sportsman  return  from  a successful  hunt,  he  takes 
water  in  his  mouth,  and  ejects  it  three  times  over  his  feet,  as 
also  in  the  fire  of  his  own  hearth. 

When  cattle  are  required  merely  for  food,  they  are  suffo- 
cated ; but  if  for  sacrifices,  they  are  speared  to  death.  On 
the  decease  of  one  of  the  tribe,  they  have  also  the  cruel  prac- 
tice of  destroying  the  poor  beasts  with  clubs,  which  I believe 
to  be  a kind  of  expiatory  offering.  The  flesh  of  such  cattle 
as  are  killed  on  the  death  of  a chief  is  principally  consumed 
by  his  servants. 

The  women  marry  at  very  much  the  same  age  as  those  in 
Europe,  but  few  ceremonies  are  connected  with  this  import- 
ant affair.  A girl  is  sometimes  betrothed  to  a man  when 
yet  a child,  though,  under  such  circumstances,  she  remains 
with  her  parents  till  of  proper  age.  The  woman,  upon  be- 
ing asked  in  marriage,  puts  on  a helmet-shaped  head-dress, 


222 


POLYGAMY SINGULAR  CUSTOMS. 


kept  in  readiness  for  such  occasions,  and  for  a certain  time 
hides  her  face  by  means  of  a piece  of  thin,  soft  skin  attached 
to  the  front  of  the  “ casque,”  which  she  can  raise  or  let  fall 
in  much  the  same  manner  as  a curtain. 

Polygamy  is  practiced  to  a great  extent,  and,  as  has  been 
said  elsewhere,  women  are  bargained  for  like  merchandise, 
the  price  varying  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  hus- 
band. Yet,  though  a man  may  have  as  many  wives  as  he 
likes,  I never  knew  one  to  have  more  than  twenty ! — a pretty 
good  supply,  however,  it  must  be  admitted. 

The  favorite  wife  always  takes  precedence  of  the  rest,  and, 
if  she  should  have  a son,  he  succeeds  to  his  father’s  posses- 
sions and  authority. 

Each  wife  builds  for  herself  a hut  of  a semicircular  form, 
the  walls  of  which  consist  of  boughs,  sticks,  &c.,  the  whole 
being  plastered  over. 

Twins  are  not  uncommon  with  the  Damaras.  Children  are, 
generally  speaking,  easily  reared.  During  infancy,  sheep’s 
milk  constitutes  their  chief  diet.  Their  heads  are  more  or 
less  deprived  of  hair ; the  boys  are  shaved,  but  the  crown  of 
the  head  of  the  girls  is  left  untouched.  Even  grown-up  fe- 
males follow  this  custom.  To  the  hair  thus  left  they  attach 
— not  very  unlike  the  Ovambo  — thin  strings,  made  from 
some  fibrous  substance. 

All  males  are  circumcised,  but  no  particular  period  of  life 
is  prescribed  for  this  operation,  which  usually  takes  place 
when  any  event  of  national  interest  occurs. 

Children  are  named  after  great  public  incidents ; but,  as 
they  grow  up,  should  any  circumstance  arise  of  still  greater 
importance  to  the  community,  they  are  renamed,  retaining, 
however,  the  original  appellation ; and,  since  there  may  be 
no  limit  to  remarkable  transactions,  it  follows  that  an  indi- 
vidual may  have  more  names  than  any  Spanish  hidalgo  can 
boast. 

Between  the  age  of  fifteen  and  twenty,  both  sexes  chip  a 


BURYING  THE  DEAD. 


223 


wedge-shaped  piece  of  the  two  centre  teeth  in  the  upper  jaw, 
and  at  a later  period  they  extract  entirely  from  the  lower 
two  or  three  teeth.  The  first  operation  is  usually  performed 
by  means  of  a piece  of  iron,  a flint,  or  simply  a stone. 

The  Damaras  bury  their  dead.  Immediately  after  disso- 
lution, the  back  bone  of  the  corpse  is  broken  with  a stone,* 
and  it  is  then  bent  together  with  the  chin  resting  on  the 
knees.  Afterward  it  is  wrapped  in  ox-hides,  and  deposited 
in  a hole  in  the  ground  dug  for  the  purpose,  care  being  taken 
to  place  the  face  toward  the  north.  This  is  done,  they  say, 
to  remind  them  (the  natives)  whence  they  originally  came. 
The  Bechuana  mode  of  disposing  of  the  dead  is  very  similar. 

Upon  the  death  of  one  of  the  tribe,  the  whole  population 
of  the  place  assemble  to  deplore  the  event.  The  howlings 
and  lamentations  on  such  occasions  are  most  discordant  and 
dreadful.  Tears  are  considered  favorable  signs,  and  the  more 
plentifully  they  fall  on  the  corpse  the  better.  Two  months 
is  the  usual  period  for  a son  to  mourn  his  father,  but  the 
time  is  modified  according  to  circumstances.  The  wealthier 
the  deceased,  the  greater  the  outward  signs  of  sorrow  — a 
kind  of  feeling  which,  at  any  rate,  bears  some  approximation 
to  that  of  civilized  life.  During  the  season  of  mourning,  the 
mourner  wears  a dark-colored  skin  cap,  conically  shaped  on 
the  top,  with  certain  ornaments  affixed  to  it.  Round  the 
neck  is  suspended  a “riem,”  to  the  two  extremities  of  which 
is  attached  a small  piece  of  ostrich  egg-shell.  In  case  of 
the  death  of  a valued  friend,  the  adults  will  occasionally 
shave  the  head  completely,  and  keep  it  in  that  state  for  years. 

When  a woman  in  reduced  circumstances  dies  and  leaves 
a child,  it  is  not  unfrequently  buried  alive  with  its  mother. 
Mr,  Rath  was  once  fortunate  enough  to  be  the  means  of 

* I am  told  that  this  is  not  unfrequently  done  before  life  is  quite 
extinct ! It  is  moreover  affirmed,  that  when  the  sick  man  begins  to 
breathe  hard  a skin  is  immediately  thrown  over  his  face,  which,  no 
doubt,  often  causes  premature  death. 


224 


DAMARA  GRAVE. 


The  horns  of  such  oxen  as  have  been  killed  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  occasion  are  hung  up  in  like  manner — a custom 
also  found  among  the  natives  of  Madagascar.  The  tomb 
consists  of  a large  heap  of  stones,  surrounded  by  an  inclosure 
of  thorn  bushes,  no  doubt  to  prevent  hysenas  and  other  car- 
nivorous animals  from  extracting  the  corpse.  Sometimes, 


saving  a child  that  was  about  to  be  destroyed  in  this  barbar- 
ous manner. 

After  having  consigned  the  remains  of  a chief  to  his  last 
resting-place,  they  collect  his  arms,  war-dress,  &c.,  and  sus- 
pend them  to  a pole  or  to  a tree  at  the  head  of  the  grave. 


DAMARA  GRAVE. 


DEATH  OF  A CHIEF — rCUSTOMS. 


225 


however,  the  chief,  should  he  have  expressed  a wish  to  that 
effect,  instead  of  being  buried,  is  placed  in  a reclining  posi- 
tion on  a slightly  raised  platform  in  the  centre  of  his  own 
hut,  which,  in  such  a case,  is  surrounded  by  stout  and  strong 
palisadings. 

When  a chief  feels  his  dissolution  approaching,  he  calls  his 
sons  to  the  bedside,  and  gives  them  his  benediction,  which 
consists  solely  in  wishing  them  an  abundance  of  the  good 
things  of  this  world. 

The  eldest  son  of  the  chief’s  favorite  wife  succeeds  his  fa- 
ther; and  as  soon  as  the  obsequies  are  over,  he  quits  the 
desolate  spot,  remaining  absent  for  years.  At  last,  however, 
he  returns,  and  immediately  proceeds  to  his  parent’s  grave, 
where  he  kneels  down,  and,  in  a whispering  voice,  tells  the 
deceased  that  he  is  there  with  his  family,  and  the  cattle  that 
he  gave  him.  He  then  prays  for  long  life,  also  that  his  herds 
may  thrive  and  multiply ; and,  in  short,  that  he  may  obtain 
all  those  things  that  are  dear  to  a savage.  This  duty  being 
performed,  he  constructs  a kraal  on  the  identical  spot  where 
once  the  ancestral  camp  stood;  even  the  huts  and  the  fire- 
places are  placed  as  much  as  possible  in  their  former  position. 
The  chief’s  own  hut  is  always  upon  the  east  side  of  the  in- 
closure. 

The  flesh  of  the  first  animal  slaughtered  here  is  cooked  in 
a particular  vessel,  and,  when  ready,  the  chief  hands  a por- 
tion of  it  to  every  one  present.  An  image,  consisting  of  two 
pieces  of  wood,*  supposed  to  represent  the  household  deity,  or 
rather  the  deified  parent,  is  then  produced,  and  moistened  in 
the  platter  of  each  individual.  The  chief  then  takes  the  im- 
age, and  after  affixing  a piece  of  meat  to  the  upper  end  of  it, 
he  plants  it  in  the  ground  on  the  identical  spot  where  his 
parent  was  accustomed  to  sacrifice.  The  first  pail  of  milk 
produced  from  the  cattle  is  also  taken  to  the  grave,  a small 

* Each  caste  has  a particular  tree  or  shrub  consecrated  to  it.  Of 
this  shrub,  a couple  of  twigs  or  sticks  represent  the  deceased. 

K 2 


226 


MALADIES CRUELTY. 


quantity  is  poured  on  the  ground,  and  a blessing  asked  on  the 
remainder. 

Fever  and  ophthalmia  (eye-sickness)  are  the  prevailing 
maladies.  The  symptoms  in  fever  are  headache,  pains  in 
the  neck  and  bowels,  general  weakness,  and  ague.  It  makes 
its  appearance  about  April  and  May,  or  when  the  periodical 
rains  have  ceased.  Ophthalmia,  on  the  other  hand,  begins  to 
show  itself  in  September  and  October,  but  reaches  its  maxi- 
mum when  the  cold  season  sets  in.  The  first  sensation  ex- 
perienced is  as  if  the  pupil  of  the  eye  was  too  large.  A gath- 
ering of  water  in  the  sides  and  under  the  eyelids  then  ensues. 
In  a short  time  this  fluid  becomes  scaldingly  hot,  and,  if  not 
quickly  and  carefully  removed,  the  pain  will  be  intense.  The 
sight  is  sometimes  completely  destroyed  by  this  malady.  In- 
deed, one  not  unfrequently  meets  with  people  either  totally 
blind  or  minus  one  eye.  Europeans  are  as  liable  to  these 
inflictions  as  the  natives.  I speak  from  experience,  having 
myself  been  a severe  sufferer  from  fever  and  ophthalmia. 

Comparatively  few  old  people  are  to  be  met  with  in  Da- 
mara-land,  for  which  several  reasons  may  be  assigned,  such 
as  their  cruel  civil  broils,  and  their  want  of  compassion  for 
aged  and  disabled  individuals.  At  times,  indeed,  they  would 
seem  to  do  all  they  can  to  hasten  the  death  of  such  sufferers. 
Some  instances  of  this  atrocity  have  come  to  my  knowledge : 
one  of  the  most  shocking  occurred  at  Barmen. 

Finding  that  a certain  poor  woman,  being  nearly  blind, 
was  unable  to  provide  for  herself,  Mr.  Hahn  took  compassion 
on  the  helpless  creature,  and  gave  her  a small  quantity  of 
provision  almost  daily.  The  brother,  finding  he  could  not 
obtain  the  same  boon,  grew  jealous  of  the  preference  shown 
to  his  sister,  and  secretly  resolved  to  kill  her.  This  he  effect- 
ed by  taking  her  to  a spot  destitute  of  water,  under  the  pre- 
text that  they  were  to  dig  roots,  where  she  was  left  to  her 
fate.  A boy  who  accompanied  them  asserted  that,  on  the 
unnatural  brother  returning  to  the  place  some  days  after- 


FOOD MUSIC  AND  DANCING CUSTOMS.  227 

% 

ward,  and  finding  his  sister  still  lingering,  he  beat  her  about 
the  head  with  his  knob-stick  until  life  was  extinct. 

Milk  is  the  staple  food  of  the  Damaras.  They  eat  or 
drink  it  out  of  one  and  the  same  dish  without  its  being  clean- 
ed otherwise  than  occasionally  by  the  tongues  of  dogs.  The 
people  have  a notion  that  if  they  wash  their  “ bamboos” 
(pails)  the  cows  would  cease  to  give  milk. 

With  the  exception  of  the  spoils  of  the  chase,  they  destroy 
but  few  animals  for  food.  Indeed,  unless  it  be  on  the  occa- 
sion of  a marriage,  a birth,  a death,  or  a circumcision,  cattle 
are  rarely  killed. 

The  Damaras  are  very  fond  of  music  and  dancing.  The 
only  musical  instrument  known  among  them  is  the  bow  (a 
kind  of  temporary  rude  Jews’ -harp),  from  which  they  con- 
trive to  extract  a sort  of  wild  melody.  By  this  instrument 
the  performer  endeavors  (and  frequently  with  much  success) 
to  imitate,  musically,  the  motion  peculiar  to  different  ani- 
mals; for  example,  the  awkward  gallop  of  the  giraffe,  the 
quick  trot  of  the  zebra,  and  the  lively  caperings  of  the  beau- 
tiful springbok. 

The  dance  consists  mostly  of  mimic  representations  of  the 
actions  of  oxen  and  sheep.  The  dancers  accompany  their 
gesticulations  by  monotonous  tunes,  and  keep  time  by  clap- 
ping their  hands  and  striking  the  ground  with  their  feet. 

As  with  the  Ovambo,  the  Eastern  custom  of  taking  off  the 
sandals  before  entering  a stranger’s  house  is  observed. 

The  Damaras  swear  “by  the  tears  of  their  mothers.” 
This  is  most  touching  and  beautiful : it  elevates  the  oath  to 
heaven. 

Generally  speaking,  a chief  has  but  nominal  power  over 
his  subjects.  On  an  attempt  to  punish  heavy  offenses,  the 
guilty  individual  often  coolly  decamps  with  his  cattle,  and 
takes  refuge  with  another  tribe.  In  minor  matters,  howev- 
er, from  superstitious  customs  and  old  habits,  the  chief  is 
more  or  less  obeyed. 


228 


SLAVES NUMERALS DOMESTIC  ANIMALS. 


The  Damaras  are  idle  creatures.  What  is  not  done  by 
the  women  is  left  to  the  slaves,  who  are  either  descendants 
of  impoverished  members  of  their  own  tribe  (is  not  this  an- 
other approach  to  civilization  f)  or  captured  Bushmen.  The 
former  are  seized  upon  when  children,  and  mostly  employed 
as  herdsmen. 

The  Damaras  have  numerals  up  to  a hundred ; notwith- 
standing which,  they  are  sorely  puzzled  should  the  sum  ex- 
ceed the  number  of  fingers.  They  count  like  bad  poets,  who 
settle  their  metre  by  their  digits.  It  is  a most  amusing 
sight  to  witness  a group  trying  to  reckon  a dozen  head  of 
cattle. 

Though  they  give  names  to  many  of  the  heavenly  bodies, 
they  have  a very  absurd  conception  of  their  character,  rota- 
tory motion,  and  so  forth.  Thus  many  imagine  that  the 
sun  which  sets  at  night  is  different  from  that  which  rises  in 
the  morning.  Like  the  children  who  wondered  what  was 
done  with  the  old  moons,  perhaps  these  savages  are  equally 
perplexed  to  ascertain  what  becomes  of  the  old  suns. 

The  domestic  animals  indigenous  to  the' country  are  oxen, 
sheep,  and  dogs.  The  latter  greatly  resemble  those  men- 
tioned as  existing  among  the  Namaquas,  but,  be  it  said  to 
the  honor  of  the  Damaras,  they  take  much  more  care  of  these 
associates  and  companions  of  man  than  their  southern  neigh- 
bors. Indeed,  I have  known  them  to  pay  as  much  as  two 
fine  oxen  for  a dog. 

Of  the  Damara  cattle  I shall  have  occasion  to  speak  here- 
after. The  sheep  are  (or  rather  were)  plentiful,  and  the 
mutton  is  by  no  means  bad.  Though  somewhat  spare-look- 
ing, they  furnish  good  joints  when  cut  up.  Skin  and  offal 
included,  they  not  unfrequently  weigh  100  pounds,  and  some- 
times as  much  as  110  to  120  pounds.  They  have  large  tails, 
like  those  of  the  Cape  Colony,  but  they  do  not  arrive  at  such 
a formidable  size.  They  have  no  wool,  but  a kind  of  short, 
glossy  hair,  lying  close  to  the  skin,  covers  the  body.  The 


DISEASES  OF  CATTLE “ BLOOD-SICKNESS.”  229 

greatest  peculiarity  of  these  animals  is  their  color,  which  is 
of  every  hue  and  tint. 

Cattle  are  subject  to  several  diseases.  The  most  common 
and  dangerous  is  that  which  affects  the  throat,  and  which 
invariably  proves  fatal.  Cataracts  on  the  eye,  frequently 
followed  by  blindness  and  swelling  of  the  feet,  are  also  very 
common  ailments. 

Sheep  often  die  from  the  blood  conglomerating  in  divers 
places  under  the  skin,  which  is  called  the  “ blood-sickness.” 
It  is  even  asserted  that  man  is  affected  by  this  disease  (some- 
times from  partaking  of  the  flesh  of  the  infected  animal),  and 
that  the  only  thing  to  save  him  under  such  circumstances  is 
instantly  to  cut  away  the  parts  affected. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Dispatch  a Messenger  to  Cape-Town. — -Depart  from  Barmen. — Eik- 
hams. — Eyebrecht. — Depart  from  Eikhams. — Elephant  Fountain. — 
Tunobis. — Enormous  quantities  of  Game. — Shooting  by  Night  at 
the  “ Skarm.” — The  Author  has  several  narrow  Escapes.— Checked 
in  attempt  to  reach  the  Ngami. — The  Party  set  out  on  their  Return. 
— Reach  Elephant  Fountain. — How  to  make  Soap. — Pitfalls. — A 
night  Adventure. — Game  scarce. — Join  Hans. — The  Party  nearly 
poisoned. — Arrival  at  Walfisch  Bay. — A tub  Adventure. — Extraor- 
dinary Mortality  among  the  Fish. — Author  narrowly  escapes  Drown- 
ing.— Arrival  of  the  Missionary  Vessel. — Letters  from  Home. — Mr. 
Galton  returns  to  Europe. — Reflections. 

The  vessel  which  brought  the  missionary  stores  to  Walfisch 
Bay  every  second  year  was  expected  in  December,  and  by 
this  opportunity  we  hoped  to  be  able  to  return  to  Europe, 
or  at  least  to  the  Cape.  In  order,  however,  to  insure  a pas- 
sage, Mr.  Galton  dispatched  a messenger  to  his  banker  in 
Cape-Town  to  make  the  needful  arrangements.  In.  the 
mean  time,  as  we  had  still  several  months  on  our  hands, 
Galton  resolved  to  employ  the  interval  in  making  an  excur- 


230 


LEAVE  BARMEN EIKHAMS. 


sion  to  the  eastward,  partly  with  the  view  of  penetrating  to 
the  Lake  Ngami,  our  original  object,  and  partly  to  become 
better  acquainted  with  Great  Namaqua-land  and  its  semi- 
civilized  inhabitants.  Moreover,  the  prospect  of  good  sport 
with  the  larger  game,  which  every  one  said  we  were  sure  to 
meet  with  in  abundance,  was  a further  inducement  to  under- 
take the  journey. 

It  was  arranged  that  Hans  should  proceed  to  Walfisch 
Bay  with  one  of  the  vehicles  to  fetch  the  remainder  of  the 
stores,  &c.,  while  Galton  and  myself,  with  the  other  wagon, 
prosecuted  our  journey  to  the  eastward.  A rendezvous  hav- 
ing been  appointed  where  Hans  was  to  meet  us,  we  left  Bar- 
men in  the  afternoon  of  the  12th  of  August.  In  about  three 
days  we  reached  Eikhams,  the  residence,  as  already  said,  of 
Jonker  Afrikaner;  where  my  friend,  before  finally  leaving 
the  country,  was  anxious  to  settle  certain  disputes  between 
the  native  tribes. 

Eikhams  is  very  prettily  situated  on  the  slope  of  a hill, 
bare  at  the  summit,  but  at  its  base  adorned  with  very  fine 
groups  of  mimosas,  among  which  a tributary  to  the  Swakop 
winds  its  course.  It  was  the  only  spot  in  South  Africa 
where  I ever  saw  any  thing  resembling  a twilight.  This 
was  produced  from  the  reflection  of  the  setting  sun  on  the 
peaks  of  the  picturesque  mountain  ranges  by  which  it  is  al- 
most entirely  surrounded. 

Eikhams  is  abundantly  supplied  with  water  from  three  or 
four  copious  springs,  and  the  site  of  these  springs  beitig  ele- 
vated, the  land  in  the  lower  ground  is  easily  irrigated.  The 
natives  construct  gardens,  wherein  they  grow  many  sorts  of 
vegetables,  some  of  which  arrive  at  perfection.  The  soil  is 
exceedingly  fertile,  and  seems  well  suited  to  the  cultivation 
of  tobacco.  Taking  it  as  a whole,  Eikhams  is  the  prettiest 
place  I ever  saw  either  in  Damara-land  or  Namaqua-land. 

About  twenty  minutes’  walk  from  Eikhams  is  a bountiful 
hot  sj*ring.  The  water,  just  where  it  gushes  out  from  the 


JONKER  SHOWS  OFF  TO  ADVANTAGE.  231 

limestone  rock,  has  a temperature  of  194  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit. Mr.  Hahn  informed  me  that  here,  on  one  occasion,  he 
boiled  a piece  of  meat,  and  that,  though  not  quite  so  good 
as  when  dressed  in  the  ordinary  manner,  it  was  not  unpal- 
atable. 

Eikhams,  as  already  said,  was  formerly  a Ehenish  mis- 
sionary station.  It  was  founded  so  far  back  as  1843  by  the 
Rev.  C.  H.  Hahn,  resident  at  New  Barmen  in  Damara-land. 
After  a time,  however,  it  was  given  up  to  the  Wesleyan  So- 
ciety, which  sent  Mr.  Haddy  to  reside  there.  This  gentle- 
man erected  an  excellent  dwelling-house  and  a most  sub- 
stantial church.  For  a while  the  mission  flourished,  but 
was  latterly  abandoned,  and  the  station  is  now  rapidly  fall- 
ing into  decay.  This,  I am  sorry  to  say,  has  been  the  fate 
of  many  other  institutions  of  a similar  nature  in  Southern 
Africa. 

Among  other  gifts,  Mr.  Galton  presented  Jonker  with  a 
splendid  cocked  hat  and  richly-gilt  uniform : a court  dress, 
in  fact,  that  had  once  probably  adorned  the  person  of  some 
great  man  when  paying  his  respects  to  majesty,  and  with 
which  the  African  chief  expressed  himself  highly  gratified. 

Being  desirous  of  obtaining  a likeness  of  so  famous  a per- 
sonage as  Afrikaner,  I requested  him  one  day  to  put  on  this 
costume  and  allow  me  to  take  his  portrait.  He  good-na- 
turedly consented  to  my  solicitation,  and  on  the  following 
morning  appeared  duly  appareled.  We  rather  expected  to 
have  a laugh  at  him,  since  his  gait  and  figure  were  some- 
what unprepossessing ; but  we  were  disappointed.  He  march- 
ed up  to  his  seat  with  as  much  ease  and  dignity  as  if  he  were 
familiar  with  the  usage  of  courts. 

During  our  stay  at  Eikhams  we  became  acquainted  with 
a Mr.  Eyebrecht,  formerly  in  the  missionary  employ,  but  now 
Jonker’s  right-hand  man.  In  addition  to  excellent  English 
and  Dutch,  he  spoke  the  Namaqua  and  the  Damara  tongues 
rather  fluently.  As  he  was  well  acquainted  with  the  coun- 


232 


PORTRAIT  OF  JONKER DELAY, 


JONKER  AFRIKANER. 


try,  Mr.  Galton  secured  his  services  for  our  tour  to  the  east- 
ward, and  he  proved  of  the  greatest  assistance. 

On  arriving  at  Eikhams  Mr.  Galton  imagined  that  his  busi- 
ness with  Jonker  would  soon  be  arranged ; but  in  this  part 
of  the  world  expedition  is  not  the  order  of  the  day,  and  we 
were  therefore  so  long  delayed  as  to  prevent  our  departure 
until  the  30th  of  August. 

In  the  course  of  our  journey  we  encountered  a great  num- 
ber and  variety  of  wild  animals,  and  consequently  our  larder 
was  well  supplied.  Indeed,  in  a few  hours,  on  a certain 
night,  I bagged  no  less  than  three  hartebeests,  two  pallahs, 
and  five  zebras,  and,  had  I felt  inclined,  might  have  shot 


ELEPHANT  FOUNTAIN REACH  TUNOBIS. 


233 


double  this  number.  We  also 
observed  a few  wild  boars. 


After  a fortnight’s  harass- 
ing travel  we  arrived  at  Ele- 
phant Fountain,  formerly  a 
Wesleyan  missionary  station. 
It  was  founded  in  1847  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Tindal,  but  had  of 
late  years  been  abandoned  in 
consequence  of  a destructive 
fever,  which  carried  off  many 


of  the  natives.  Even  the  few  Europeans  settled  there  suf- 
fered severely.  It  was  situated  within  the  territory  of  the 
chief  Amral,  who  was  born  and  bred  in  the  Cape  Colony, 
and,  if  I am  not  misinformed,  was  raised  to  his  present  dig- 
nity partly  through  missionary  influence. 

Elephant  Fountain  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  Hill-Damaras, 
who  cultivate  extensive  gardens  of  tobacco,  &c.  Game  was 
abundant  thereabout,  but  we  had  not  then  time  to  look  aft- 
er it. 

From  Elephant  Fountain  eastward  the  country  was  rep- 
resented as  very  sandy  and  bushy,  and,  as  our  oxen  were  in 
a very  indifferent  condition,  we  determined  to  leave  the  wag- 
on behind  in  charge  of  John  Mortar,  the  cook,  and  to  pros- 
ecute our  journey  with  pack-and-ride  oxen.  Amral,  with  a 
great  number  of  the  tribe,  expressed  a wish  to  accompany 
us,  chiefly  for  the  sake  of  the  anticipated  sport.  As  we  trav- 
eled on  we  were  joined  by  Lambert,  his  son,  and  other  Na- 
maquas,  with  their  attendants,  till  at  last  our  party  amount- 
ed to  several  hundred  individuals. 

After  no  little  inconvenience  and  misery,  on  account  of  the 
great  heat,  the  terrible  drought,  and  scarcity  of  pasturage 
about  the  few  and  widely  - separated  watering-places,  we 
reached  Tun  obis,  or  Otjombinde,  on  the  3d  of  October.  Ac- 
cording to  Mr.  Galton’s  observations,  this  place  is  situated  in 
latitude  21°  55'  and  21°  55'  east  longitude. 


234  ATTEMPT  TO  REACH  THE  NGAMI  ABANDONED. 

The  Bushmen  who  inhabited  these  parts  declared  that  the 
country  between  here  and  the  Ngami  was  then  impassable, 
and  that  any  attempt  on  our  part  to  reach  it  would  be  cer- 
tain destruction  to  ourselves  and  cattle.  Though  we  did  not 
altogether  credit  their  story,  we  felt  that,  under  the  circum- 
stances, it  would  have  been  highly  imprudent  to  proceed  far- 
ther. 

From  a rough  calculation,  we  concluded  that  we  could  not 
be  above  nine  or  ten  days’ journey  from  the  lake,  and  it  was, 
therefore,  with  no  little  reluctance  that  we  gave  up  the  at- 
tempt. However,  it  was  all  for  the  best,  and  we  ought,  in- 
deed, to  be  grateful  to  the  natives  for  their  truthful  informa- 
tion. From  after  experience,  I am  quite  confident  that,  had 
we  tried  to  push  on  that  year,  nothing  could  have  saved  us 
and  our  beasts  of  burden  from  perishing  from  thirst.  After 
leaving  Tunobis,  we  should  not  have  met  with  water  for  at 
least  three  days  and  a half  of  actual  travel,  besides  the  nec- 
essary delays.  To  perform  this,  even  with  fresh  animals, 
would  perhaps  have  been  a thing  unheard-of  in  these  re- 
gions, but  the  difficulty  was  magnified  by  the  state  of  our 
cattle,  which  were  now  reduced  to  skeletons.  Indeed,  even 
before  reaching  Tunobis,  some  of  them  had  been  left  behind 
from  sheer  exhaustion. 

I must  confess  that,  on  first  reading  my  friend’s  narrative, 
I was ‘somewhat  startled  on  coming  upon  his  pleasant  asser- 
tion that  he  did  not  much  care  about  reaching  Lake  Ngami. 
It  is  true  that,  when  landing  at  Walfisch  Bay,  we  had  but 
little  hope  of  arriving  there  ; but,  at  least  for  my  own  part, 
I had  always  conceived  the  great  goal  of  our  journey  to  be 
precisely  the  Ngami.  Moreover,  with  regard  to  his  supposi- 
tion that  the  country  hence  toward  the  lake  was  compara- 
tively open  and  free  from  bushes,  and  that,  consequently,  a 
road  to  it  could  be  traced  without  the  slightest  difficulty,  I 
can  only  say  that  shortly  after  leaving  Tunobis — not  to  men- 
tion the  scarcity  of  water — the  bush  becomes  so  dense,  and 


ENORMOUS  QUANTITIES  OF  GAME.  235 

the  thorns  so  tormenting,  that  I found  it  necessary  to  make 
immense  detours , and  even  then  all  our  clothes,  pack-sad- 
dles, &c.,  were  literally  torn  to  ribbons. 

The  few  days  that  we  remained  at  Tunobis  were  spent 
profitably  and  pleasantly.  Besides  much  interesting  infor- 
mation of  the  country,  derived  from  the  Bushmen,  part  of 
which  has  since  been  substantiated,  we  had  abundant  shoot- 
ing. From  the  absence  of  water  within  a distance  of  two 
or  three  days’  journey  of  the  place,  the  number  of  animals 
that  nightly  congregated  here  to  quench  their  thirst  was 
truly  astonishing. 

To  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  immense  quantity  of 
game  hereabouts,  I may  mention  that,  in  the  course  of  the 
few  days  we  remained  at  Tunobis,  our  party  shot,  among 
other  animals,  upward  of  thirty  rhinoceroses.  One  night, 
indeed,  when  quite  alone,  I killed,  in  the  space  of  five  hours 
(independently  of  other  game),  no  less  than  eight  of  those 
beasts,  among  which  were  three  distinct  species ; and  it  is 
my  belief  that  if  I had  persevered  I might  have  destroyed 
double  the  number.*  But  I never  took  delight  in  useless 
slaughter.  In  our  case,  and  I think  I may  say  in  all  cases 
where  I have  been  concerned  in  killing  a great  number  of 
wild  beasts,  not  a pound  of  flesh  was  ever  wasted,  for  what 
we  did  not  require  for  our  own  use  was  devoured  by  the 
natives. 

As  another  evidence  of  the  enormous  quantity  of  game  in 
this  region,  I may  state  that  the  fountain  in  question,  which 
was  a copious  one— nay,  apparently  inexhaustible — was  al- 
most nightly  drunk  dry. 

On  several  occasions  I had  narrow  escapes  from  being 
gored  by  the  horns  of  these  ugly  monsters.  Thus  one  an- 

* When  we  thus  shot  at  night,  we  generally  ensconced  ourselves 
in  a “ skarm,”  that  is,  a small  circular  inclosure  six  or  eight  feet  in 
diameter,  the  walls  (usually  consisting  of  loose  stones)  being  about  two 
feet  in  height. 


236 


NARROW  ESCAPES MORTIFICATION. 


imal,  on  receiving  a mortal  wound,  charged  me  with  such 
fury  as  to  cany  completely  away  the  fore  part  of  my  “ skarm,” 
and  I only  saved  my  life  by  throwing  myself  with  great  force 
against  the  opposite  wall,  which  fortunately  gave  way. 

At  another  time  I was  walking  leisurely  up  to  a huge 
female  white  rhinoceros,  that  Mr.  Galton  had  killed  during 
the  preceding  night,  when  all  at  once  its  calf,  about  the  size 
of  an  ox,  rushed  upon  me  from  behind  the  carcass.  Its 
movements  were  so  rapid  that  I had  neither  time  to  get  out 
of  its  way  nor  to  level  my  gun ; but  passing  the  barrel,  like 
a stick,  against  its  chest,  I fired,  and,  as  luck  would  have  it, 
the  ball  caused  the  calf  to  swerve  on  one  side  and  take  it- 
self off.  A short  time  afterward,  and  at  no  great  distance 
from  our  encampment,  it  was  found  dead. 

Being  tired  of  shooting,  and  having  got  all  the  informa- 
tion we  could  from  the  Bushmen,  we  bent  our  steps  home- 
ward. Our  .failure  in  not  reaching  the  Lake  Ngami  deeply 
mortified  me.  Night  and  day  I was  haunted  by  the  thought. 
Taking  every  thing  into  consideration,  I could  not  help  think- 
ing that,  under  more  favorable  circumstances,  success  would 
crown  my  endeavors,  were  I determined  to  renew  the  at- 
tempt. Accordingly,  I made  up  my  mind  first  to  see  my 
friend  safe  from  the  African  shore,  and  then  to  return  as  soon 
as  the  rains  had  fallen. 

I communicated  my  resolve  to  Mr.  Galton,  who  at  once 
fully  entered  into  my  views ; and  as  I had  neither  oxen  nor 
wagons,  he  kindly  promised  to  supply  me  with  both,  as  also 
with  such  articles  of  barter  as  his  own  reduced  stores  af- 
forded. 

After  nearly  a month’s  absence,  we  found  ourselves  safe 
at  Elephant  Fountain.  Notwithstanding  we  had  been  al- 
most solely  living  on  fresh  meat  during  this  time,  we  had 
only  used  the  one  half  of  a small  copper-cap  box*  of  salt ! I 

* A copper-cap  box,  for  the  information  of  my  female  readers,  is 
^bout  the  size  of  a pill-box. 


BREAD  NOT  NECESSARY— SOAP -MAKING PITFALLS.  237 

mention  the  circumstance  to  show  that  salt  is  not  strictly 
necessary  to  man’s  existence.  Moreover,  excepting  once  or 
twice  at  the  missionary  table,  we  had  not  tasted  bread  for 
months.  I had  so  totally  forgotten  the  use  of  it,  that,  after 
our  return  to  Barmen,  on  being  entertained  at  Mr.  Hahn’s 
house,  I finished  my  meal  without  noticing  the  piece  of  bread 
which  was  conspicuous  enough  alongside  my  plate.  Our  men 
grumbled  a little  at  first  at  being  deprived  of  bread,  but  they 
also  soon  got  accustomed  to  do  without  it,  nor  did  the  least 
inconvenience  arise  from  its  absence.  I have  always  heard 
that  the  want  of  bread  and  vegetables  is  the  greatest  hard- 
ship a man  can  experience.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the  human 
system — as  the  above  facts  demonstrate — is  capable  of  recon- 
ciling itself  to  nearly  all  conditions  and  circumstances. 

The  men  left  in  charge  of  the  wagon  were  well,  but  poor 
John  Mortar,  the  cook,  looked  pale  and  thin.  On  asking 
him  the  cause,  he  pointed  to  the  fire  where  our  food  was 
cooked,  and,  with  something  like  an  oath,  exclaimed,  66  Sir, 
look  at  that  pot ! I have  been  watching  it  these  seven-and- 
twenty  days  and  nights,  and,  after  all,  I find  that  my  labor 
is  thrown  away !” 

Shortly  after  leaving  Elephant  Fountain,  John,  it  seems, 
had  set  about  making  so^ip,  of  which  our  supply  was  exhaust- 
ed. Through  some  mistake,  however,  he  used  unslaked  lime 
instead  of  the  alkali  obtained  in  the  country  from  the  ash  of 
the  native  soap-bush.  This  at  once  accounted  for  his  failure 
in  regard  to  the  article  itself,  and  his  own  emaciated  appear- 
ance. 

Game,  as  has  been  said,  was  very  abundant  near  to  Ele- 
phant Fountain,  and,  by  means  of  spacious  pitfalls,  great 
numbers  of  wild  animals  were  almost  nightly  captured.  The 
whole  ground  in  the  neighborhood  of  Zwart  Nosop,  which 
flowed  past  the  place,  was  literally  a succession  of  pitfalls, 
and  they  were  so  cleverly  arranged  and  well  concealed  that 
it  required  the  utmost  caution  in  walking  about.  Even  peo- 


238 


A NIGHT  ADVENTURE SOLITUDE. 


pie  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  locality  ran  great  risk  of 
being  precipitated  into  these  dangerous  traps. 

Lions  were  numerous  and  very  daring.  From  time  to 
time,  several  of  Amral’s  people,  while  lying  in  ambush  for 
game  at  night,  had  been  either  carried  off  or  fearfully  man- 
gled by  these  beasts.  Finding  that  I was  somewhat  incau- 
tious, the  chief  expressed  the  greatest  apprehensions  for  my 
safety,  more  especially  as  I was  usually  quite  alone. 

On  one  of  these  occasions  I must  confess  to  having  felt 
rather  uncomfortable.  I had  posted  myself  in  a dense  mimosa 
brake,  commanding  the  approach  to  the  Zwart  Nosop  River 
at  a point  much  frequented  by  wild  animals,  and  flanked  by 
an  immense  pitfall.  The  darkness  was  deepened  by  sur- 
rounding thick  foliage  and  high  river  banks.  Indeed,  so 
black  was  the  night  that  I could  not  discern  even  the  muzzle 
of  my  gun.  The  gloominess  of  my  solitude  was  increased  by 
the  occasional  “Qua-qua!”  of  the  night-heron,  which  made 
the  succeeding  hush  more  dreary,  during  which  even  the 
falling  of  leaves  and  rustling  of  insects  among  dry  grass  was 
hailed  as  a relief  to  the  oppressive  dumbness.  To  a man  in 
a savage  wilderness,  and  without  a companion,  silence,  espe- 
cially when  combined  with  utter  privation  of  light,  is  inex- 
pressibly solemn.  It  strikes  the  mind  not  merely  as  a ne- 
gation, but  as  a threatening  presence.  It  seems  ominous. 
I shall  never  forget  the  loneliness  and  sense  of  desolation  I 
felt  on  this  occasion.  It  was  past  midnight,  and  still  no  game 
appeared. 

Suddenly  I fancied  I heard  the  purr  and  breathing  of  an 
animal  close  behind  me ; but  as  no  other  indications  of  any 
living  thing  ensued,  I attributed  the  sounds  to  a heated  im- 
agination. All  at  once,  however,  the  dismal  stillness  was 
disturbed  by  the  quick  steps  of  a troop  of  pallahs  descending 
the  stony  slope  leading  direct  to  my  ambush.  Stooping  as 
low  as  possible,  in  order  to  catch  their  outline,  I waited  their 
arrival  with  my  gun  on  full  cock.  Nearer  and  nearer  they 


A NIGHT  ADVENTURE “ SIR,  THE  LION.”  239 

came,  till  at  last  I fancied  the  leader  was  on  the  verge  of  the 
pitfall ; but  just  at  that  moment  there  was  a low,  stifled 
growl,  a rush,  and  then  a faint  cry,  as  of  some  dying  animal. 
All  was  again  silent.  Though  the  impenetrable  darkness 
prevented  me  from  seeing  any  thing,  I could  no  longer  doubt 
that  I was  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  a lion.  I freely  ac- 
knowledge that  I felt  awed,  well  knowing  that,  were  he  to 
attack  me,  I should  be  completely  at  his  mercy.  My  situa- 
tion was  critical  in  the  extreme.  Straining  eyes  and  ears  to 
discover  the  beast’s  whereabout,  I held  my  breath  in  fearful 
suspense,  while  every  nerve  was  strung  to  the  highest  pitch. 
Presently  I heard,  to  my  astonishment,  the  report  of  a gun 
within  fifty  paces  of  my  hiding-place ; then  a second  and  a 
third  shot.  This  made  matters  worse ; for  I now  became  ap- 
prehensive that  the  men,  not  aware  of  my  presence,  might 
direct  their  fire  toward  me.  I therefore  sprang  to  my  feet, 
and  vociferated,  “ Who’s  there?”  “Sir!  the  lion — the  lion!” 
replied  Eyebrecht,  for  it  was  no  other.  The  next  instant  he 
stood  trembling  before  me.  He  had,  it  appeared,  been  sent 
by  Amral  to  call  me  back,  but  had  encountered  the  beast  in 
his  path,  and  fired,  in  order  to  frighten  him  away. 

Though  I did  not  exactly  comply  with  the  wishes  of  the 
chief,  I deemed  it  advisable,  after  what  had  passed,  to  re- 
move to  a more  open  place,  where  I was  less  likely  to  be 
taken  by  surprise.  Early  next  morning  a number  of  Hot- 
tentots came  to  examine  the  ground,  when,  as  I had  expect- 
ed, we  found  the  footprints  of  a lion  at  the  very  back  of  my 
“skarm,”  and  scarcely  distant  the  length  of  the  gun-barrel 
from  my  own  person,  where  he  had  evidently  been  crouching 
previously  to  leaping  on  the  pallah  (whose  cry  I had  heard  in 
the  night),  but  which,  though  wounded,  had  effected  its  escape. 
How  far  the  beast  intended  me  mischief  is  hard  to  say,  but, 
in  any  case,  my  position  had  not  been  an  enviable  one. 

On  our  return  journey  to  Barmen  it  rained  heavily,  and  in 
some  places  the  landscape  looked  quite  revived.  Many  mi- 


240  POWER  OF  ANIMALS  TO  SCENT  HERBAGE. 

gratory  birds,  such  as  the  swallow,  the  cuckoo,  and  others, 
had  again  made  their  appearance. 

The  animals,  which  during  the  dry  season  are  compelled 
to  gather  round  the  springs  and  other  permanent  waters,  were 
enabled,  by  the  late  rains,  to  scatter  themselves  over  a large 
extent  of  country,  and  were  now  difficult  to  find.  There  can 
be  little  doubt  that  the  instinctive  power  of  animals — domes- 
ticated as  well  as  wild — is  capable  of  catching  the  scent  of 
humid  winds  and  green  herbage  at  a very  great  distance. 
Thus  I have  often  seen  oxen  turn  their  heads  toward  the 
quarter  where  distant  lightning  indicated  that  rain  had  fall- 
en, and  sniff  with  evident  pleasure  the  breeze  produced  by 
colder  air.  Mr.  Moffat,  the  missionary,  mentions  an  instance 
where  a great  number  of  cattle  were  entirely  lost,  solely,  as 
he  supposes,  from  this  cause. 

“ Many  years  previous  to  my  sojourn  in  Namaqua-land,” 
says  the  reverend  gentleman,  “ Afrikaner  thus  lost  the  great- 
er part  of  his  cattle.  One  evening  a strong  wind  commenced 
blowing  from  the  north ; it  smelt  of  green  grass,  as  the  na- 
tives expressed  it.  The  cattle,  not  being  in  folds,  started  off 
after  dark.  The  circumstance  being  unprecedented,  it  was 
supposed  they  had  merely  wandered  out  to  the  common, 
where  they  were  accustomed  to  graze ; but  it  was  found,  aft- 
er much  search,  that  some  thousands  of  cattle  had  directed 
their  course  to  the  north.  A few  were  recovered,  but  the 
majority  escaped  to  the  Damara  country,  after  having  been 
pursued  hundreds  of  miles.” 

For  my  own  part,  I have  frequently  passed  through  local- 
ities abounding  with  game,  and,  repassing  them  in  a short 
time,  I have  found  them  deserted  without  any  apparent  cause ; 
as  I proceeded,  however,  I have  discovered  them  in  quite  dif- 
ferent quarters,  and  ascertained  that  the  attraction  has  been 
the  young  grass,  which  was  either  produced  by  the  moisture 
of  the  atmosphere,  or  from  the  natives  having  fired  the  old 
grass.  The  rapidity  with  which  parched  and  sun-burnt  pas- 


AN  ADVENTURE PASTURAGE  SCARCE. 


241 


turages  in  tropical  climes  are  converted  by  any  of  these 
causes  into  luxuriant  savannas  is  incredible,  and  can  only  be 
duly  estimated  by  those  who  have  themselves  witnessed  such 
changes. 

A stage  on  this  side  of  Eikhams  we  encountered  Hans, 
who  had  met  with  a little  adventure  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Scheppman’s  Mountain,  where  he  had  one  day  unyoked.  He 
had  been  out  in  search  of  game,  when  on  his  return  he  was 
astonished  to  observe  a number  of  natives  rushing  toward 
the  wagon,  no  doubt  with  the  intention  of  plundering  it,  and 
probably  of  spearing  the  men  who  had  it  in  charge.  On  see- 
ing Hans  approach  with  a gun,  however,  they  all  took  to 
their  heels ; but  some  were  captured,  and,  after  they  had  un- 
dergone a sound  drubbing,  and  been  threatened  with  death 
should  they  ever  attempt  a similar  outrage,  they  were  allow- 
ed to  depart.  Not  many  hours  elapsed  before  these  very 
savages  returned  to  beg  for  tobacco ! 

We  were  sorry  to  find  that  our  cattle  looked  thin  and  mis- 
erable. Indeed,  Hans  had  experienced  the  greatest  difficulty 
in  bringing  on  the  wagon.  Restored  tranquillity  had  given 
confidence  to  the  Damaras,  who  were  now  flocking  in  great 
numbers  with  their  cattle  to  the  banks  of  the  Swakop,  the 
result  of  which  was  that  every  blade  of  grass  was  consumed 
for  miles  around  both  sides  of  the  river.  This  was  indeed 
sad  news,  as  our  route  lay  precisely  through  these  parts,  and 
our  draft  animals  were  by  this  time  in  a distressingly  ex- 
hausted and  reduced  state.  It  required  some  efforts  on  our 
part  to  overcome  these  difficulties,  and  we  lost  no  time  in  re- 
tracing our  steps.  After  Mr.  Galton  had  disposed  of  some 
of  the  superfluous  goods  to  the  natives,  and  exchanged  the 
run-away  mules  to  Jonker  for  cattle,  we  bade  farewell  to  the 
hospitable  hearth  of  the  missionaries  at  Barmen  and  Richter- 
feldt,  and  proceeded  quickly  on  our  road  to  Walfisch  Bay. 

On  arriving  at  the  confluence  of  the  Swakop  and  the  Tjo- 
bis  Rivers,  we  had  a narrow  escape  from  being  poisoned,  as 

L 


242  NARROW  ESCAPE VISITORS A “ SELL.” 

the  Hill-Damaras  had  mixed  the  juice  of  the  euphorbia  can- 
delabrum with  the  stagnant  pool-water  for  the  purpose  of 
killing  buffaloes,  which  were  numerous  hereabout.  Fortu- 
nately, by  having  gone  in  advance  of  our  party,  in  the  hope 
of  obtaining  a shot  at  these  animals,  I discovered  the  poison- 
ed water  (easily  detected  by  its  peculiar  clay  color)  in  time 
to  prevent  any  serious  mischief.  Some  of  the  dogs  partook 
of  it,  but,  having  previously  taken  their  fill  of  clear,  pure  wa- 
ter, they  escaped  with  a heavy  vomiting.  At  this  identical 
place  Hans  had  a short  time  previously  found  several  dead 
and  dying  buffaloes  that  had  been  poisoned. 

The  symptoms  with  men,  after  imbibing  the  poison  in 
question — not  the  least  of  the  many  dangers  to  which  the 
African  traveler  is  almost  daily  exposed — are  generally  a full- 
ness of  the  system,  quick  pulsation,  giddiness,  and  a violent 
“ flesh-quake.” 

Though  our  cattle  suffered  dreadfully  from  want  of  pastur- 
age, we  reached  WalfischBay  on  the  5 th  of  December  with- 
out the  loss  of  a single  ox. 

The  missionary  vessel  had  not  yet  arrived,  but  there  were 
two  others,  a brig  and  a bark.  The  master  of  the  first  was 
an  Englishman,  in  search  of  guano,  as  also  of  nitrate  of  soda, 
which  was  reported  to  exist  on  this  coast.  He  imagined  that 
he  had  really  found  the  latter  valuable  salt,  and  whispered 
his  discovery  to  us  as  a great  secret.  On  examining  the  spec- 
imens in  his  possession,  however,  it  was  found  to  be  noth- 
ing more  nor  less  than  pieces  of  common  soap ! part,  prob- 
ably, of  the  cargo  of  some  wrecked  vessel.  The  action  of  the 
water  had  so  altered  the  soap  in  appearance  that  the  mistake 
was  really  excusable.  On  learning  from  us  the  real  nature 
of  his  supposed  prize,  the  poor  captain,  as  may  be  imagined, 
evinced  no  little  chagrin  and  disappointment. 

The  second  ship  was  an  American,  in  search  of  the  sperm 
whale,  which  is  not  unfrequently  found  in  these  waters.  Our 
shabby  and  tattered  garments  and  unshaved  faces  induced 


A TUB  ADVENTURE. 


243 


the  captain  to  regard  us  at  first  with  suspicion,  taking  us  not 
improbably  for  outlaws,  unfit  for  other  society  than  savage 
men  and  beasts.  By  degrees,  however,  his  mind,  as  to  our 
proper  character,  was  set  at  rest,  and  we  were  hospitably 
entertained  on  board  his  ship,  which  was  scrupulously  clean 
and  orderly. 

The  crews  of  many  of  the  whaling  and  guano  ships  who 
were  in  the  habit  of  frequenting  Walfisch  Bay  had  behaved 
very  outrageously,  either  by  plundering,  or  wantonly  destroy- 
ing the  contents  of  the  temporary  store-house.  On  one  oc- 
casion they  had  been  amusingly  baffled  in  their  dishonest  and 
disreputable  practices.  At  the  time  of  which  I am  now 
speaking,  the  store  was  tenanted  by  Mr.  Dickson,  the  trader, 
who  possessed  some  very  fine  lion  cubs.  These  a certain  cap- 
tain determined  to  purloin,  and,  for  that  purpose,  sent  a 
number  of  his  men  in  the  dead  of  the  night  to  carry  them 
away.  The  animals  were  usually  kept  in  a large  tub  or  bar- 
rel ; but  it  so  happened  that,  on  the  very  evening  the  master 
had  fixed  on  for  the  execution  of  his  plan,  they  had  been  re- 
moved elsewhere,  and  that  Mr.  Bassingweight,  one  of  Mr. 
Dickson’s  employes , had  taken  up  his  abode  in  their  old  quar- 
ters. The  sailors  entered  the  building  unperceived,  and  be- 
gan rapidly  to  roll  the  tub  away.  Mr.  Bassingweight  at  first 
imagined  he  was  dreaming ; but,  as  the  motion  became  more 
violent,  the  thumping  of  his  head  against  the  wooden  walls 
soon  brought  him  to  his  senses,  on  which  he  roared  out  most 
lustily.  The  unexpected  and  strange  noise  so  terrified  the 
sailors  that  they  made  a precipitate  retreat. 

The  next  morning,  the  captain,  having  previously  had  the 
audacity  to  possess  himself  of  one  of  Mr.  Dickson’s  horses, 
came  riding,  very  drunk,  to  his  house,  and  in  an  imperious 
and  impudent  tone  demanded  the  cubs  to  be  given  up  to  him. 
At  the  same  time,  he  thrust  an  immense  dagger  through  a dish 
of  pancakes  which  a servant  was  busy  preparing.  Mi*.  Dick- 
son was  not  at  home ; but  his  wife,  who  was  a shrewd  and 


244 


A FIGHT. 


determined  woman,  not  only  refused  compliance,  but  com- 
manded the  fellow  instantly  to  dismount  and  go  about  his 
business.  On  his  hesitating,  she  unceremoniously  pulled  him 
off  the  horse,  and  threatened  to  knock  him  down  if  he  did 
not  immediately  leave  the  house.  Fearing,  however,  that  he 
might  return  with  his  crew  during  the  night  to  revenge  him- 
self, and,  perhaps,  take  forcible  possession  of  the  young  lions, 
she  ordered  Bassingweight  and  another  of  her  servants  (hav- 
ing previously  primed  them  with  cordials  to  raise  their  spirits 
and  courage)  to  proceed  at  dusk  toward  the  Bay  to  watch 
the  enemy’s  movements.  Mrs.  Dickson’s  surmise  proved  cor- 
rect ; for  the  men  had  not  gone  far  before  they  distinguished 
the  clamorous  voices  of  a number  of  persons  who  were  rapid- 
ly approaching  them.  Squatting  behind  some  sand-hillocks, 
they  allowed  the  marauders  to  come  within  range,  when  they 
fired  a shot  over  their  heads,  which  had  the  desired  effect. 
Without  waiting  for  further  hostility,  Jack  instantly  bolted. 
Elated  by  their  easy  success,  Bassingweight  and  his  compan- 
ion instantly  gave  chase,  and  on  coming  up  with  the  fugitives, 
a terrible  pele-mele  fight  ensued.  Notwithstanding  one  of  the 
men  was  almost  a giant  in  strength  and  stature,  the  odds 
were  too  great,  and  they  were  on  the  point  of  being  overpow- 
ered. At  this  critical  moment  Bassingweight  called  loudly 
for  assistance,  hoping  that  some  of  the  natives,  who  occasion- 
ally slept  on  the  beach,  might  come  to  the  rescue.  To  their 
inexpressible  relief,  up  rose  from  among  a number  of  empty 
barrels,  which  happened  to  be  ranged  along  the  shore,  a Bush- 
man. His  appearance  acted  like  magic,  and  instantly  turned 
the  cards  in  their  favor ; for  the  sailors,  as  it  was  afterward 
ascertained,  imagining  the  casks  to  be  savages  also,  and  dread- 
ing probably  their  poisoned  arrows,  were  seized  with  a panic, 
and  fled  precipitately  in  every  direction,  some  rushing  up  to 
their  necks  in  water,  while  others  actually  fell  on  their  knees 
begging  forgiveness ! Unless  for  the  Bushman,  Bassingweight 
assured  me  that  himself  and  companion  must  have  been  in- 
evitably killed. 


EXTRAORDINARY  SPECTACLE NARROW  ESCAPE.  245 

The  bay  presented  at  this  time  a most  extraordinary  spec- 
tacle, the  whole  being  covered  with  one  mass  of  dead  fish. 
We  could  only  account  for  so  unusual  a sight  by  supposing 
that  an  epidemic  had  occurred  among  them,  more  especially 
as  it  did  not  appear  to  be  confined  to  one  or  two  species  of 
the  finny  tribe,  but  to  all  which  are  indigenous  to  the  coast, 
the  gigantic  shark  not  excepted.  In  some  of  the  more  shel- 
tered spots  the  fish  lay  so  deep  that  I remember  on  one  occa- 
sion to  have  had  some  difficulty  in  forcing  my  way  through 
in  a small  Mackintosh  punt. 

As  may  well  be  expected,  the  effluvium  arising  from  such 
a mass  of  decomposed  matter  was  offensive  and  sickening. 
Whether  all  the  fish  died,  or  the  stench  drove  the  survivors 
away,  I am  unable  to  decide ; but  certain  it  is  that  hardly  a 
fish  was  left  in  the  Bay.  On  our  first  arrival  we  captured 
large  quantities  by  means  of  a small  seine-net,  but  now  all 
our  attempts  proved  futile. 

An  incident  occurred  to  me  one  day  which  might  have 
been  attended  with  fatal  consequences.  A cutter  had  lately 
arrived  from  the  Cape,  the  object  of  the  captain  being  to  har- 
poon the  66  humpback”  whale,  which  at  this  season  of  the 
year  abounds  in  the  vicinity  of  Walfisch  Bay.  I had  paid  a 
visit  to  the  craft  in  the  punt  mentioned.  On  my  return  it 
came  on  to  blow  hard  from  the  land.  In  calm  weather  the 
punt  could  be  managed  with  great  ease ; but,  on  account  of 
her  flat  bottom  and  light  construction,  it  was  impossible  to 
make  head  against  a stiff  breeze.  When  within  a stone’s 
throw  of  the  shore , she  became  unmanageable,  and  for  the 
space  of  fully  one  hour  all  my  efforts  to  propel  her  were  un- 
availing. At  last,  finding  my  strength  failing,  I made  one 
more  desperate  effort,  and,  having  fortunately  succeeded  in 
getting  her  into  shallow  water,  I leaped  over  the  side  and 
ultimately  brought  her  to  a place  of  safety.  My  arms  were 
quite  paralyzed,  and  for  a while  I was  unable  to  lift  them 
from  my  sides.  Had  the  struggle  lasted  another  minute,  noth- 


246  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  MISSIONARY  VESSEL BAD  NEWS. 

Ing  could  have  saved  me  from  being  blown  out  into  the  open 
sea,  and  as  there  was  a gale  of  wind  at  the  time,  there  can 
be  no  doubt  as  to  the  result. 

On  the  31st  of  December,  being  then  at  Scheppmansdorf, 
I received  intelligence  that  the  long-expected  missionary  ves- 
sel had  arrived,  and  that  she  was  to  sail  in  a few  days  for 
St.  Helena.  On  the  following  morning,  the  first  day  of  the 
year  1852,  a parcel  of  European  letters  was  handed  to  me. 
It  was  now  fully  twenty  months  since  I had  heard  any  news 
of  my  friends,  and  I hailed  this  token  of  their  interest  in  my 
behalf  with  rapture.  But  alas!  although  I had  much  to  be 
thankful  for,  the  intelligence  was  damped  by  the  unexpected 
tidings  of  the  death  of  a younger  brother.  Poor  fellow! 
notwithstanding  he  and  I could  never  agree  during  life,  I 
loved  him  dearly.  His  last  words,  uttered  in  delirium,  were 
said  to  have  been  addressed  to  me,  imploring  me  to  come  to 
his  assistance.  He  died  at  Bio  Janeiro  of  that  scourge,  the 
yellow  fever.  Peace  be  to  his  memory ! The  cholera  was 
also  raging  in  Sweden,  and  I trembled  for  the  news  that  might 
next  reach  me. 

I proceeded  immediately  to  Walfisch  Bay  to  bid  farewell 
to  Galton.  John  Williams,  John  Mortar,  and  Timbo  were 
to  accompany  him  to  St.  Helena,  whence  they  were  to  be 
forwarded  to  Cape-Town.  Hans — in  himself  a host — John 
Allen,  and  John  St.  Helena,  agreed  to  remain  with  me. 

My  specimens  of  natural  history,  which  had  been  collected 
with  much  care  and  trouble,  and  which  had  cost  me  many  a 
sleepless  night,  I consigned  to  Galton’ s care.  They  consisted 
of  about  five  hundred  bird-skins,  nearly  double  that  number 
of  insects,  and  a few  odds  and  ends.  I also  took  this  oppor- 
tunity to  forward  several  letters  to  my  European  friends. 

Galton  appeared  delighted  with  the  prospect  of  soon  re- 
turning to  civilized  life.  Though  he  had  proved  himself  to 
be  capable  of  enduring  hardships  and  fatigue  as  well  as  any 
of  us,  it  was  evident  that  he  had  had  enough  of  it. 


GALTON  ARRIVES  SAFE GOLD  MEDAL. 


247 


The  schooner  was  to  have  sailed  on  the  5th  of  January ; 
but,  in  consequence  of  the  arrival  of  “The  Grecian”  man-of- 
war,  then  cruising  off  the  West  Coast,  it  was  postponed  till 
the  next  day.  As  the  schooner  gradually  disappeared  from 
view,  I began  to  feel  in  full  force  the  loneliness  of  my  situa- 
tion, and  the  loss  of  my  friend’s  company.  It  would  seem 
that,  the  farther  the  object  of  our  esteem  and  regard  is  sepa- 
rated from  us,  the  better  we  are  able  to  appreciate  its  value. 
Galton’s  excellent  disposition  and  even  temper  had  enabled 
us  to  struggle  through  all  difficulties  very  happily  together, 
and  it  was,  therefore,  with  sincere  regret  that  I parted  from 
him.  I whispered  a prayer  for  his  safe  return  to  the  bosom 
of  his  family.  It  was  heard ; for,  though  the  passage  proved 
of  long  duration,  he  reached  England  in  safety,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  two  years. 

Not  long  subsequently  to  his  return,  the  Royal  Geograph- 
ical Society,  I was  happy  to  learn,  bestowed  upon  him  their 
gold  medal  as  a reward  for  his  services  in  the  cause  of  sci- 
ence. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Capture  of  young  Ostriches. — Natural  History  of  the  Ostrich ; where 
found;  Description  of ; Size;  Weight;  Age;  Voice;  Strength; 
Speed;  Food;  Water;  Breeding;  Incubation;  Cunning;  Stones 
found  in  Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh. — Brain  in  request  among  the  Ro- 
mans.— Eggs  highly  prized. — Uses  of  Egg-shells. — Feathers  an  ar- 
ticle of  Commerce.— Ostrich  Parasols. — The  Bird’s  destructive  Pro- 
pensities. — Habits.  — Resembles  Quadrupeds.  — Domestication. — 
The  Chase. — Snares. — Ingenious  Device. — Enemies  of  the  Ostrich. 

Ostriches  are  at  all  times  more  or  less  numerous  on  the 
Naarip  Plain,  but  more  particularly  so  at  this  season,  on  ac- 
count of  the  naras  (of  which  mention  was  made  in  the  second 
chapter)  being  now  ripe. 

While  waiting  for  the  missionary  vessel,  previously  to  the 


248  OSTRICHES MANCEUVRES  OF  THE  OLD  BIRD, 

departure  of  Mr.  Galton,  I made  several  trips  between  the 
Bay  and  Scheppmansdorf,  in  order  to  arrange  matters  for  my 
intended  journey  to  the  Ngami.  On  one  of  these  occasions 
I was  accompanied  by  my  friend.  ■ When  we  had  proceeded 
little  more  than  half  the  distance,  and  in  a part  of  the  plain 
entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  we  discovered  a male  and  fe- 
male ostrich,  with  a brood  of  young  ones  about  the  size  of 
ordinary  barn-door  fowls.  This  was  a sight  we  had  long 
been  looking  for,  as  Galton  had  been  requested  by  Professor 
Owen  to  procure  a few  craniums  of  the  young  of  this  bird, 
in  order  to  settle  certain  anatomical  questions.  According- 
ly, we  forthwith  dismounted  from  our  oxen  and  gave  chase, 
which  proved  of  no  ordinary  interest. 

The  moment  the  parent  birds  became  aware  of  our  inten- 
tion, they  set  off  at  full  speed,  the  female  leading  the  way, 
the  young  following  in  her  wake,  and  the  cock,  though  at 
some  little  distance,  bringing  up  the  rear  of  the  family  party* 
It  was  very  touching  to  observe  the  anxiety  the  old  birds 
evinced  for  the  safety  of  their  progeny.  Finding  that  we 
were  quickly  gaining  upon  them,  the  male  at  once  slackened 
his  pace,  and  diverged  somewhat  from  his  course ; but,  see- 
ing that  we  were  not  to  be  diverted  from  our  purpose,  he 
again  increased  his  speed,  and,  with  wings  drooping  so  as  al- 
most to  touch  the  ground,  he  hovered  round  us,  now  in  wide 
circles,  and  then  decreasing  the  circumference  till  he  came 
almost  within  pistol-shot,  when  he  abruptly  threw  himself  on 
the  ground,  and  struggled  desperately  to  regain  his  legs,  as  it 
appeared,  like  a bird  that  has  been  badly  wounded.  Having 
previously  fired  at  him,  I really  thought  he  was  disabled,  and 
made  quickly  toward  him.  But  this  was  only  a ruse  on  his 
part ; for,  on  my  nearer  approach,  he  slowly  rose  and  began 
to  run  in  an  opposite  direction  to  that  of  the  female,  who  by 
this  time  was  considerably  ahead  with  her  charge. 

After  about  an  hour’s  severe  chase,  we  secured  nine  of  the 
brood ; and,  though  it  consisted  of  about  double  that  number. 


COURSING  YOUNG  OSTRICHES. 


250  THE  OSTRICH WHERE  FOUND SIZE  AND  WEIGHT. 

we  found  it  necessary  to  be  contented  with  what  we  had 
bagged.* 

On  returning  to  the  Bay,  however,  the  next  morning  in  a 
mule-cart,  Mr.  Galton  again  encountered  the  same  birds  with 
the  remainder  of  the  family,  and,  after  a short  race,  cap- 
tured six  more  of  the  chicks. 

The  ostrich  (which,  from  possessing  the  rudiments  of  a 
gall-bladder,  and  the  absence  of  wings  fit  for  flight,  seems  to 
form  a kind  of  connecting  link  between  the  two  great  fam- 
ilies of  mammalia  and  aves)  is  an  inhabitant  of  a large  portion 
of  Africa,  but  rarely  extends  farther  east  than  the  deserts  of 
Arabia.  Throughout  the  Indian  Archipelago,  the  family  of 
birds  (of  which  the  ostrich  is  the  leading  type)  is  represented 
by  the  cassowary ; in  Australia  by  the  emeu ; in  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  western  hemisphere  by  the  rhea ; and 
even  in  Europe,  though  somewhat  departing  from  the  type, 
it  has  its  representative  in  the  stately  bustard. 

Any  thing  like  a scientific  description  of  the  ostrich  would 
here  be  out  of  place ; but  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  that 
the  lower  part  of  the  neck  and  the  body  of  the  mature  male 
bird  are  of  a deep  glossy  black,  intermingled  with  a few 
whitish  feathers,  only  visible  when  the  plumage  is  ruffled. 
“ In  the  female  the  general  color  of  the  feathers  is  of  a gray- 
ish or  ashy  brown,  slightly  fringed  with  white.  In  both  sexes 
the  large  plumes  of  the  wings  and  tail  are  beautifully  white.” 

The  ostrich,  when  full  grown,  stands  no  less  than  from 
seven  to  eight  feet,  and  instances  are  recorded  where  indi- 
vidual birds  have  attained  as  much  as  nine.  Its  weight  is 
proportionate.  Judging  from  what  I have  experienced  in 
carrying  the  dead  body,  it  is  not  less,  perhaps,  than  two  or 
three  hundred  pounds.  Indeed,  there  are  persons  who  be- 
lieve that  the  mature  bird,  when  in  prime  condition,  as  a 
butcher  would  say,  will  attain  a weight  of  thirty  stone. 

* The  wood-cut  on  the  preceding  page  is  a faithful  representation 
of  the  chase  described,  which  took  place  shortly  before  sunset. 


AGE CRY STRENGTH SPEED FOOD. 


251 


I could  never  obtain  any  data  that  would  enable  me  to 
form  a correct  estimate  of  the  age  of  the  ostrich,  but  it  may 
fairly  be  concluded  that  he  lives  between  twenty  and  thirty 
years. 

The  cry  of  the  ostrich  so  greatly  resembles  that  of  a lion 
as  occasionally  to  deceive  even  the  natives.  It  is  usually 
heard  early  in  the  morning,  and  at  times  also  at  night. 

The  strength  of  the  ostrich  is  enormous.  A single  blow 
from  its  gigantic  foot  (it  always  strikes  forward)  is  sufficient 
to  prostrate,  nay,  to  kill  many  beasts  of  prey,  such  as  the 
hysena,  the  panther,  the  wild  dog,  the  jackal,  and  others. 

The  ostrich  is  exceedingly  swift  of  foot,  under  ordinary 
circumstances  outrunning  a fleet  horse:  “What  time  she 
lifteth  up  herself  on  high,  she  scorneth  the  horse  and  its 
rider.”  On  special  occasions  and  for  a short  distance,  its 
speed  is  truly  marvelous,  perhaps  not  much  less  than  a mile 
in  half  a minute.  Its  feet  appear  hardly  to  touch  the  ground, 
and  the  length  between  each  stride  is  not  unfrequently  twelve 
to  fourteen  feet.  Indeed,  if  we  are  to  credit  the  testimony 
of  Mr.  Adanson,  who  says  he  witnessed  the  fact  in  Senegal, 
such  is  the  rapidity  and  muscular  power  of  the  ostrich,  that, 
even  with  two  men  mounted  on  his  back,  he  will  outstrip  an 
English  horse  in  speed!  The  ostrich,  moreover,  is  long- 
winded,  if  I may  use  the  expression,  so  that  it  is  a work  of 
time  to  exhaust  the  bird. 

The  food  of  the  ostrich,  in  its  wild  state,  consists  of  the 
seeds,  tops,  and  buds  of  various  shrubs  and  other  plants.* 
But  it  is  often  difficult  to  conceive  how  it  can  manage  to  live 
at  all,  for  one  not  unfrequently  meets  with  it  in  regions  ap- 
parently destitute  of  vegetation  of  any  kind : 

* At  the  Zoological  Gardens,  Regent’s  Park,  where  at  this  moment 
several  of  these  birds  are  alive,  the  ostrich  is  fed  on  a mixture  of  oats, 
barley,  chaff,  and  cabbage,  of  which  the  respective  quantities  are  as 
follows : oats,  one  pint ; barley,  one  pint ; chaff,  half  a gallon ; and 
cabbage,  four  pounds. 


252  OSTRICHES  POLYGAMISTS THE  BREEDING  SEASON* 

♦ 

“ A region  of  emptiness,  howling  and  drear, 

Which  man  hath  abandoned  from  famine  and  fear ; 

Which  the  ostrich  and  lizard  inhabit  alone, 

With  the  twilight  bat  from  the  old  hollow  stone ; 

Where  grass,  nor  herb,  nor  shrub  take  root, 

Save  poisonous  thorns  that  pierce  the  foot ; 

And  the  bitter-melon  for  food  and  drink, 

Is  the  pilgrim’s  fare  by  the  salt  lake’s  brink!” 

Although  the  ostrich  is  undoubtedly  capable  of  undergo- 
ing thirst  for  a considerable  period,  yet  water  appears  to  be 
indispensable  to  its  existence.  In  the  dry  and  hot  season  I 
have  often  observed  the  same  flock  drinking  almost  daily* 
They  swallow  the  water  by  a succession  of  gulps.  On  such 
occasions,  that  is,  when  approaching  a spring,  they  seem 
quite  stupefied.  While  staying  at  Elephant  Fountain,  where 
in  a short  time  I killed  eight  of  these  magnificent  birds,  they 
made  their  appearance  regularly  every  day  about  noon ; and 
although  the  locality  afforded  but  indifferent  shelter,  they 
invariably  allowed  me  to  get  within  range,  only  retreating 
step  by  step. 

Like  the  capercali  of  Europe,  the  ostrich  has  a plurality 
of  wives — from  two  to  six,  it  is  said.  The  breeding  season 
would  seem  to  be  somewhat  undefined,  for  I have  met  with 
nests  in  every  month  from  June  till  October.  Each  female 
is  represented  as  laying  from  twelve  to  sixteen  eggs,  and  all 
in  one  and  the  same  nest,  which  is  simply  a cavity  scooped 
out  in  the  sand. 

Both  male  and  female  assist  in  hatching  the  eggs,  which 
are  placed  upright,  in  order,  it  would  seem,  66  that  the  great- 
est  possible  number  may  be  stowed  within  the  space.”  When 
about  a dozen  eggs  are  laid,  the  bird,  which  squats  astride 
over  them,  with  its  legs  pointed  forward,  begins  to  sit.  I 
have  observed  that  on  perceiving  a man,  instead  of  running 
away  from  the  nest,  it  not  unfrequently  lowers  its  conspicu- 
ous neck  till  it  becomes  in  a line  with  the  ground,  evidently 
in  the  hope  that  it  may  be  passed  unnoticed. 


INCUBATION. 


253 


During  the  period  of  incubation,  the  ostrich,  if  an  intruder 
approaches  its  nest,  resorts  to  various  artifices  to  induce  him 
to  withdraw  far  off. 

“ One  morning,’’  says  Professor  Thunberg,  “ as  I rode 
past  a place  where  a hen-ostrich  sat  on  her  nest,  the  bird 
sprang  up  and  pursued  me,  with  a view  to  prevent  my  notic- 
ing her  young  ones  or  her  eggs.  Every  time  I turned  my 
horse  toward  her  she  retreated  ten  or  twelve  paces,  but  as 
soon  as  I rode  on  she  pursued  me  again.” 

The  period  of  incubation  seems  to  vary ; but,  on  the  av- 
erage, it  may  be  about  thirty-eight  days.  One  or  more  of 
the  females  are  said  to  lay  meanwhile;  but  the  supernu- 
merary eggs  are  placed  outside  the  nest,  and  are  supposed 
to  serve  as  nourishment  for  the  callow  brood.  If  such  real- 
ly be  the  case,  we  in  this  again  see  a wonderful  provision 
of  nature,  inasmuch  as  the  chicken  would  be  unable  to  di- 
gest the  indurated  matter  furnished  by  their  too-often  sterile 
haunts. 

The  notion  so  generally  entertained  of  the  ostrich  merely 
depositing  her  eggs  in  the  sand,  and  leaving  them  to  be  vivi- 
fied by  the  sun,  arises  probably  from  its  habit  of  occasionally 
quitting  the  nest  in  search  of  food,  more  especially  as  it  gen- 
erally does  so  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day. 

Some  travelers  affirm  that  the  ostrich  not  only  never  sits 
on  her  eggs  after  having  once  been  handled,  or  even  if  a man 
should  have  passed  near  the  nest,  but  that  she  actually  de- 
stroys them ! I,  for  my  part,  can  not  speak  to  this  point, 
having,  whenever  I found  an  ostrich’s  nest,  usually  plundered 
it  at  once,  thus  leaving  the  bird  no  opportunity  of  obeying 
so  strange  an  instinct. 

It  seems  pretty  certain,  however,  that  the  ostrich,  as  with 
many  other  birds,  is  in  the  habit  of  deserting  her  eggs  if  they 
be  handled.  “ The  slaves,”  says  Professor  Thunberg,  “ al- 
ways use  the  precaution  not  to  take  away  the  eggs  with  their 
hands  (in  which  case  the  birds,  who  perceive  it  by  scent,  are 


0 


254  STONES  FOUND  IN  EGGS THE  CHICKS. 

apt  to  quit  the  spot),  but  by  means  of  a long  stick  they  rake 
them  out  of  the  nest  as  fast  as  the  birds  lay  them.” 

A peculiarity  in  regard  to  the  eggs  of  the  ostrich,  and,  so 
far  as  I am  aware,  confined  to  the  eggs  of  this  bird  alone,  is 
mentioned  by  several  African  travelers.  For  example: 
“ The  farmer  here  likewise  informed  me,”  says  the  author 
just  quoted,  “ that  a stone  or  two  is  sometimes  found  in  the 
ostrich’s  eggs,  which  is  hard,  white,  rather  flat  and  smooth, 
and  about  the  size  of  a bean.  These  stones  are  cut  and 
made  into  buttons,  but  I never  had  the  good  fortune  to  see 
any  of  them.” 

Again : “ In  these  eggs,”  writes  Barrow,  “ are  frequently 
discovered  a number  of  small  oval-shaped  pebbles,  about  the 
size  of  a marrowfat  pea,  of  a pale  yellow  color,  and  exceed- 
ingly hard.  In  one  egg  we  found  nine,  and  in  another  twelve 
of  such  stones.” 

Notwithstanding  the  number  of  eggs  laid,  seldom  more 
than  thirty  to  thirty-five  are  hatched.  Almost  as  soon  as  the 
chicks  (which  are  about  the  size  of  pullets)  have  escaped  from 
the  shell,  they  are  able  to  walk  about  and  to  follow  the 
mother,  on  whom  they  are  dependent  for  a considerable 
period.  And  Nature,  with  her  usual  care,  has  provided  the 
young  with  a color  and  a covering  admirably  suited  to  the 
localities  they  frequent.  The  color  is  a kind  of  pepper-and- 
salt,  harmonizing  wonderfully  with  the  variegated  sand  and 
gravel  of  the  plains  which  they  are  in  the  habit  of  travers- 
ing. Indeed,  when  crouching  under  my  very  eyes,  I have 
had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  discerning  the  chicks.  The 
covering  is  neither  down  nor  feathers,  but  a kind  of  “ prickly 
external,”  which,  no  doubt,  is  an  excellent  protection  against 
injury  from  the  coarse  gravel  and  the  stunted  vegetation 
among  which  they  dwell. 

The  flesh  of  the  young  ostrich  is  not  unpalatable,  but 
that  of  the  old  bird  is  any  thing  but  good.  To  my  notion, 
it  tastes  very  much  like  that  of  the  zebra.  According  to  the 


THE  FLESH EATEN  BY  THE  ROMANS. 


255 


Mosaic  law,  the  ostrich  was  denounced  as  an  unclean  animal, 
and  the  Jews  were,  consequently,  forbidden  to  eat  it.  The 
Arabs  of  the  present  day  still  adhere  to  this  prohibition. 
Some  of  the  native  tribes  of  Southern  Africa,  however,  are 
less  fastidious,  and  partake  of  the  flesh  with  great  relish, 
more  especially  when  fat. 

Though  people  at  the  present  day  place  little  or  no  value 
on  the  ostrich  as  an  article  of  food,  the  ancient  Romans,  who 
were  great  epicures,  seem  to  have  been  of  a different  opinion. 
We  are  told  by  Yobiscus  that  the  pseudo-Emperor  Firmus, 
“ equally  celebrated  for  his  feats  at  the  anvil  and  at  the 
trencher,  devoured,  in  his  own  imperial  person,  an  entire 
ostrich  at  one  sitting.”*  The  brain  of  this  bird  was  consid- 
ered a superlative  delicacy ; and,  like  every  thing  else  with 
that  luxurious  nation,  it  was  provided  on  the  most  magnifi- 
cent scale.  Thus,  according  to  an  ancient  testimony,  the 
Emperor  Heliogabalus  was  served  at  a single  feast  with  the 
brains  of  six  hundred  of  these  birds.f 

If  the  flesh  of  the  ostrich  be  not  much  esteemed,  its  eggs, 
at  all  events,  are  prized  in  the  highest  degree  by  natives  and 
travelers.  To  say  nothing  of  their  flavor,  each  contains  as 
much  as  twenty-four  of  the  eggs  of  the  barn-door  fowl,  and 
weighs  about  three  pounds. 

From  the  great  size  of  the  ostrich  egg  it  might  be  supposed 
that  one  would  be  a sufficient  meal  for  any  man  ; but  I have 
known  instances  where  two  eggs  have  been  dispatched  by  a 
single  individual,  even  when  mixed  with  a quantity  of  flour 
and  fat.  Indeed,  Hans  and  his  companion  once  finished  five 
ostrich  eggs  in  the  course  of  an  afternoon ! 

* Apicius  gives  a recipe  for  the  best  sauce. 

f The  Komans,  as  is  well  known,  also  introduced  large  numbers  of 
ostriches  into  the  circus,  where  they  were  butchered  by  the  people. 
We  are  told  that  no  less  than  one  thousand  of  these  splendid  creatures 
(together  with  an  equal  number  of  the  stag,  the  fallow  deer,  and  the 
boar  tribe)  were  on  one  occasion  brutally  sacrificed  to  gratify  the  in- 
satiable thirst  for  blood  of  the  Homan  populace. 


256 


EGG-SHELLS FEATHERS. 


Even  the  egg-shell  is  of  considerable  value,  and  is  an  ex- 
cellent vessel  for  holding  liquids  of  any  kind.  The  Bushmen 
have  hardly  any  other.  By  covering  it  with  a light  net-work, 
it  may  be  carried  slung  across  the  saddle.  Grass,  wood,  &c., 
serve  as  substitutes  for  corks. 

By  the  monks  of  Dayr  Antonios,  we  are  informed  that  the 
Copts  (by  whom  the  eggs  are  looked  upon  as  the  emblem  of 
watchfulness,  and  who  suspend  them  in  their  churches)  pass 
the  cords  of  their  lamps  through  the  shell  in  order  to  prevent 
the  rats  from  coming  down  and  drinking  the  oil. 

The  shell  of  the  egg  is  used  medicinally.  The  Boers,  after 
reducing  it  to  powder  and  mixing  it  with  vinegar,  give  it  to 
cattle  afflicted  with  strangury,  for  which  disease  it  is  consid- 
ered a sovereign  remedy.  The  powder  itself  is  said  to  be  an 
excellent  preservative  against  blindness. 

The  white  wing-feathers*  of  the  ostrich  (the  black  ones  are 
used  chiefly  for  mourning)  are  a considerable  article  of  com- 
merce. The  market,  however,  is  very  fluctuating.  At  the 
Cape  the  price  varies  from  one  or  two  guineas  sterling  to  as 
much  as  twelve  for  the  pound,  the  latter  sum,  however,  being 
only  paid  for  very  prime  feathers.  The  thinner  the  quill, 
and  the  longer  and  more  wavy  the  plume,  the  more  it  is 
prized.|  Seventy  to  ninety  feathers  go  to  the  pound.  But, 
although  half  this  number  may  be  obtained  from  a single 

* The  plumes,  together  with  the  eggs,  of  the  ostrich,  are  said  to 
have  been  held  in  much  request  with  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Indeed, 
they  formed  part  of  the  tribute  imposed  on  those  of  the  conquered  na- 
tions in  whose  country  the  bird  abounded,  and  appear  to  have  been 
used  for  ornaments  as  well  as  for  religious  purposes.  “ The  ostrich 
feather  was  a symbol  of  the  Goddess  of  Truth  or  Justice.  It  belonged 
also  to  the  head-dress  of  Ao,  was  adopted  by  Hermes  Trismegistus, 
and  worn  by  the  soldiery  and  the  priests  on  certain  religious  festivals.” 
“ In  Turkey,  the  janizary  who  signalized  himself  in  arms  had  the  priv- 
ilege of  em pluming  his  turban,  and  in  the  kingdom  of  Congo  the  feath- 
ers, mixed  with  those  of  the  peacock,  are  employed  as  the  ensigns  of 
war  and  victory.” 

f Such  feathers  as  have  been  plucked  from  the  wings  of  the  living 


OSTRICH  PARASOLS SKIN. 


257 


bird,  only  a small  portion  are  of  any  value.  In  the  pairing 
season,  and  it  may  be  at  other  times,  the  ostrich,  like  the 
turkey-cock,  the  capercali,  and  many  other  birds,  is  in  the 
habit  of  drooping  its  wings,  so  that  the  outer  feathers  trail 
on  the  ground,  which  soon  destroys  their  beauty.  The 
proper  time  to  kill  the  ostrich  for  its  plumes  is  shortly 
after  the  moulting  season,  or  in  the  months  of  March  and 
April. 

The  Damaras  and  the  Bechuanas  manufacture  handsome 
parasols  from  the  black  feathers  of  the  ostrich,  which  serve 
as  signs  of  mourning,  or  are  useful  for  the  preservation  of 
the  complexion.  “It  is  a beautiful  sight,”  says  Harris,  “to 
behold  a savage  whose  skin,  somewhat  coarser  than  the  hide 
of  a rhinoceros,  might  vie  in  point  of  color  with  a boot,  pro- 
tecting his  complexion  by  the  interposition  of  such  an  um- 
brella.” 

Some  of  the  tribes  of  Southern  Africa  are  said  to  employ 
ostrich  parasols  while  hunting  wild  animals,  with  a similar 
purpose  to  that  of  a Spanish  bull-fighter  who  uses  a red  cloth. 
Thus,  in  case  of  a wounded  beast  charging  a man,  the  latter, 
just  at  the  moment  he  is  about  to  be  seized,  suddenly  thrusts 
the  supports  of  the  nodding  plumes  into  the  ground,  and,  while 
the  infuriated  animal  is  venting  its  rage  on  its  supposed  vic- 
tim, the  native  slips  unperceived  on  one  side  and  transfixes 
his  antagonist. 

The  skin  of  the  ostrich  is  also  said  to  be  held  in  great 
request,  and  forms  no  inconsiderable  article  of  commerce. 
“The  whole  defensive  armor  of  the  Nasamones,  inhabitants 
of  Libya,  was  manufactured  of  the  birds’  thick  skin,  which, 
even  at  the  present  day,  is  used  as  a cuirass  by  some  of  the 
Arab  troops.” 

The  ostrich,  though  usually  dwelling  far  from  the  haunts 
of  men,  occasionally  approaches  the  homestead,  and  at  such 

bird  are  said  to  be  preferable  to  those  obtained  from  the  dead  ostrich, 
as  being  less  liable  to  the  attack  of  worms. 


258 


HABITS  OF  THE  OSTRICH. 


times  causes  the  Boer  considerable  damage  by  trampling 
down  and  eating  the  grain. 

The  opinions  of  authors  and  sportsmen  with  regard  to  the 
ostrich  vary  considerably.  Some  ascribe  to  it  great  stu- 
pidity, while  others  consider  it  as  possessed  of  vivacity  and 
much  intelligence.  Without  passing  a judgment,  I will  only 
mention  that  I have  seen  it  exhibit  these  opposite  qualities 
in  no  small  degree. 

In  a domesticated  state,  it  is  true,  the  ostrich  appears  to 
be  a quiet,  dull,  and  heavy-looking  bird ; but  when  seen  in 
its  native  haunts,  it  is  restless,  wary,  and  difficult  of  approach. 
From  its  great  stature,  and  the  prominent  position  of  its 
eyes,  its  range  of  vision  is  naturally  considerable,  which  en- 
ables it  to  discover  danger  at  a considerable  distance.  This, 
together  with  the  exposed  localities  frequented  by  it,  probably 
accounts  for  the  comparatively  few  that  even  the  mightiest 
Nimrods  of  South  Africa  can  boast  of  having  killed. 

What  may  be  the  case  with  the  ostrich  in  a wild  state 
is  hard  to  say ; but  when  in  confinement,  no  bird  or  other 
animal  demonstrates  so  little  discrimination  in  the  choice  of 
its  food,  for  it  then  swallows  with  avidity  stones,  pieces  of 
wood  and  iron,  spoons,  knives,  and  a variety  of  other  indi- 
gestible matters.  This  strange  propensity  and  apparent  ob- 
tuseness of  taste  obtained  for  the  bird  at  an  early  period 
the  epithet  of  “ the  iron-eating  ostrich 

“ The  estridge  that  will  eate 
An  horshowe  so  great 
In  the  steade  of  meat ; 

Such  fervent  heat 
His  stomach  doth  freat.”* 

Many  amusing  anecdotes  are  told  of  the  strange  habits  of 
this  bird.  Once — so  runs  the  story — when  the  ostrich  was 
still  a rare  sight  in  Europe,  a woman,  on  hearing  of  the  ar- 
rival of  a batch  of  these  birds,  and  being  anxious  to  obtain 
* “ The  Boke  of  Philip  Sparrow.” 


AN  EPICURE — -SIMILARITY  TO  THE  CAMEL. 


259 


a sight  of  them,  hastily  shut  up  her  house,  taking  the  key  of 
the  door  in  her  hand.  No  sooner,  however,  had  she  arrived 
on  the  spot  where  the  birds  were  kept,  when  one  of  them 
stalked  gravely  up  to  the  lady,  and,  snatching  the  iron  in- 
strument out  of  her  hand,  deliberately,  and  to  her  great  hor- 
ror, swallowed  it,  actually  shutting  her  out  of  her  own  house  ! 

“ Nothing,”  says  Methuen,  in  his  “ Life  in  the  Wilderness,” 
when  speaking  of  a female  ostrich  that  came  under  his  im- 
mediate notice,  “ disturbed  the  ostrich’s  digestion  : dyspepsia 
was  a thing  ‘ undreamt  of  in  its  philosophy.’  One  day,  a 
Muscovy  duck  brought  a promising  brood  of  ducklings  into 
the  world,  and  with  maternal  pride  conducted  them  forth 
into  the  yard.  Up,  with  solemn  and  measured  stride,  walk- 
ed the  ostrich,  and,  wearing  the  most  mild,  benignant  cast  of 
face,  swallowed  them  all,  one  after  the  other,  like  so  many 
oysters,  regarding  the  indignant  hissings  and  bristling  plu- 
mage of  the  hapless  mother  with  stoical  indifference.” 

The  ostrich  is  gregarious,  and  is  met  with  in  troops  vary- 
ing from  a few  individuals  to  as  many  as  fifty.  Singularly 
enough,  it  is  never  known  to  associate  with  other  birds,  but, 
preferring  quadrupeds,  is  often  found  in  company  with  the 
zebra,  the  springbok,  the  gnoo,  &c.  Indeed,  in  many  re- 
spects it  bears  a striking  resemblance  to  four-footed  animals, 
such  as  in  its  strong,  jointed  legs  and  cloven  hoofs,  its  long, 
muscular  neck,  its  gruff  voice,  the  absence  of  the  elevated 
central  ridge  of  the  breast  bone,  so  generally  characteristic 
of  birds,  besides  other  similarities  already  mentioned.  But, 
perhaps,  when  compared  with  the  camel,  the  affinity  becomes 
still  more  striking.  Both  are  “ furnished  with  callous  pro- 
tuberances on  the  chest  and  on  the  abdomen,  on  which  they 
support  themselves  when  at  rest,  and  they  both  lie  down  in 
the  same  manner.”  In  both,  the  feet  and  stomach  are  some- 
what similarly  constructed;  and  if  we  add  to  this  their 
capabilities  of  subsisting  on  a scanty  and  stunted  vegetation, 
their  endurance  of  thirst,  and  their  formation  in  general, 


260  EASILY  DOMESTICATED CHASE  ON  HORSEBACK. 

which  enables  ostrich  and  camel  to  inhabit  and  traverse  arid 
and  desert  regions,  the  resemblance  is  by  no  means  so  im- 
aginary as  one  might  at  first  suppose.  Indeed,  to  many  of 
the  nations  of  the  East,*  as  well  as  to  the  Romans  and  the 
Greeks,  the  ostrich  was  known  by  the  name  of  the  camel- 
bird. 

The  ostrich  is  easily  domesticated,  but  is  sometimes  of  a 
vicious  disposition.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Hahn,  if  I remember 
rightly,  told  me  that  some  of  these  birds,  which  he  kept  in 
confinement  for  a considerable  period,  became  so  mischievous 
that,  lest  they  might  injure  any  of  the  people  on  the  station, 
he  was  obliged  to  kill  them. 

Several  persons  have  tried  to  breed  from  the  tame  ostrich ; 
but,  to  the  best  of  my  belief,  all  attempts  have  hitherto  proved 
abortive.  Eggs,  however,  have  been  frequently  obtained, 
but  the  birds  never  showed  any  inclination  to  sit  upon  them. 
At  the  Regent’s  Park  Gardens,  moreover,  repeated  trials  have 
been  made  to  hatch  the  eggs  by  artificial  means,  but  without 
success. 

The  expedients  resorted  to  in  South  Africa  to  capture  the 
ostrich  are  various.  Not  unfrequently  it  is  ridden  down  by 
men  on  horseback.  Several  hunters  take  different  sides  of  a 
large  plain,  thus  hemming  the  bird  in,  and  chasing  it  back- 
ward and  forward  until  its  strength  is  exhausted. 

The  ostrich  is  also  at  times  ridden  down  by  a single  horse- 
man. Under  ordinary  circumstances,  fleet  as  the  horse  may 
be,  this  would  be  impossible.  Toward  the  approach  of  the 
rainy  season,  however,  when  the  days  are  intolerably  hot 
and  oppressive,  the  giant  bird  may  be  seen  standing  motion- 
less on  the  plain,  with  wings  spread  and  beak  wide  open; 
and  at  such  times  the  capture  may  be  accomplished.  In- 
deed, cases  have  come  under  my  notice  where  Namaquas, 

* Among  the  people  of  Persia  and  Arabia  the  vulgar  belief  is  said 
to  exist  “ that  the  shutur-moorg  (the  camel-bird)  is  produced  by  the 
union  of  a camel  with  a bird!” 


OSTRICH  HUNTING. 


261 


after  a short  but  spirited  chase,  have  brought  the  ostrich  to 
a dead  stand-still.  A blow  on  the  head  with  a stick  or  a 
“shambok”  is  then  sufficient  to  dispatch  it.  On  similar 
occasions,  however,  horses  have  been  known  to  drop  down 
dead  from  over-exertion. 

When  an  ostrich  finds  himself  observed,  he  will  often  make 
for  some  given  point,  more  especially  if  he  be  hemmed  in 
near  a plain.  He  is  so  fully  aware  that  safety  is  only  to  be 
found  in  the  open  country,  that  he  always  endeavors  to  gain 
it.  Should  the  sportsman  understand  his  business,  he  may 
easily  cut  him  off ; but  it  requires  a keen  eye  and  a practiced 
hand  to  bring  the  bird  down ; for  on  emergencies  like  these, 
its  speed,  as  before  said,  is  truly  wonderful. 

The  Arabs  of  North  Africa  are  also  accustomed  to  pursue 
the  ostrich  on  horseback ; but,  instead  of  trying  to  overtake 
the  bird  at  once,  it  is  steadily  followed,  even  for  days,  with- 
out putting  it  to  its  speed,  until  it  becomes  gradually  exhaust- 
ed, when  it  falls  an  easy  prey  to  the  persevering  hunter.* 

In  parts  of  Southern  Africa  the  ostrich  is  run  down  even 
on  foot.  I myself  have  seen  the  Bushmen  accomplish  this 
exploit  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Ngami.  They  usually  sur- 
round a whole  troop,  and  with  shouts  and  yells  chase  the 
terrified  birds  into  the  water,  where  they  are,  of  course, 
speedily  killed.  “We  more  than  once,”  says  Harris,  “fell 
in  with  a large  party  of  Corannas  engaged  in  an  attempt  to 
tire  out  an  ostrich  on  foot,  a feat  which  they  are  said  some- 
times to  achieve,  knocking  him  off  his  legs  by  squaling  with  a 
club  of  rhinoceros  horn  fashioned  like  a hockey  stick.” 

The  Bushman,  however-,  frequently  has  recourse  to  a much 

* “When  slain,  the  throat  is  opened,  and  a ligature  being  passed 
below  the  incision,  several  of  the  hunters  raise  the  bird  by  the  head 
and  feet,  and  shake  and  drag  him  about  until  they  obtain  from  the 
aperture  nearly  twenty  pounds  of  a substance  of  mingled  blood  and 
fat,  of  the  consistence  of  coagulated  oil,  which,  under  the  denomina- 
tion of  manteque,  is  employed  in  the  preparation  of  dishes  and  the  cure 
of  various  maladies.” — Harris's  Wild  Sports. 


262 


MODES  OF  CAPTURE. 


simpler  plan  of  circumventing  the  ostrich.  Having  found  its 
nest,  he  removes  the  eggs  to  a place  of  safety,  and,  ensconcing 
himself  in  the  empty  cavity,  awaits  the  return  of  the  bird, 
which  he  generally  manages  to  dispatch  with  a poisoned  ar- 
row. 

At  other  times  the  natives  lie  in  wait  near  pools  fre- 
quented by  ostriches,  and  shoot  them  when  they  come  there 
to  quench  their  thirst.  If  the  gun  be  loaded  with  swan-shot 
instead  of  ball,  and  one  aims  at  the  necks,  several  may  be 
killed  at  a single  discharge;  but  this  plan  will,  of  course, 
never  be  adopted  by  the  true  sportsman. 

Ostriches  are  also  not  unfrequently  captured  in  snares  (sim- 
ilar to  those  made  use  of  for  entangling  smaller  species  of 
antelopes),  but  I have  quite  forgotten  whether  by  the  neck 
or  the  leg.  A long  cord,  having  at  one  end  a noose,  is  tied 
to  a sapling,  which  is  bent  down,  and  the  noose  pinned  to  the 
ground  in  such  a manner  that  when  a bird  treads  within  it 
the  sapling  springs  back  by  its  own  natural  elasticity,  sus- 
pending the  bird  or  other  animal  in  the  air,  and  it  is  only 
released  from  its  sufferings  by  death.  Strabo  and  Oppian 
make  mention  of  snares  being  employed  by  the  ancients  for 
the  capture  of  ostriches,  either  alluring  them  by  stratagem 
into  the  toils,  or  driving  them  en  masse  by  a brisk  pursuit 
with  horses  and  dogs. 

But  the  most  ingenious  plan  of  beguiling  the  ostrich  to  its 
destruction  is  that  described  by  Mr.  Moffat  and  others  as 
practiced  among  the  Bushmen.  The  reverend  gentleman 
says : 

“A  kind  of  flat  double  cushion  is  stuffed  with  straw  and 
formed  something  like  a saddle.  All  except  the  under  part 
of  this  is  covered  over  with  feathers  attached  to  small  pegs 
and  made  so  as  to  resemble  the  bird.  The  head  and  neck 
of  an  ostrich  are  stuffed,  and  a small  rod  introduced.  The 
Bushman  intending  to  attack  game  whitens  his  legs  with  any 
substance  he  can  procure.  He  places  the  feathered  saddle  on 


ENEMIES  OF  THE  OSTRICH. 


263 


his  shoulders,  takes  the  bottom  part  of  the  neck  in  his  right 
hand,  and  his  bow  and  poisoned  arrows  in  his  left.  Such  as 
the  writer  has  seen  were  most  perfect  mimics  of  the  ostrich, 
and  at  a few  hundred  yards’  distance  it  is  not  possible  for  the 
eye  to  detect  the  fraud.  This  human  bird  appears  to  pick 
away  at  the  verdure,  turning  the  head  as  if  keeping  a sharp 
look-out,  shakes  his  feathers,  now  walks,  and  then  trots  till 
he  gets  within  bow-shot ; and  when  the  flock  runs  from  one 
receiving  an  arrow,  he  runs  too.  The  male  ostriches  will,  on 
some  occasions,  give  chase  to  the  strange  bird,  when  he  tries 
to  elude  them  in  a way  to  prevent  them  catching  his  scent ; 
for  when  once  they  do,  the  spell  is  broken.  Should  one  hap- 
pen to  get  too  near  in  pursuit,  he  has  only  to  run  to  wind- 
ward or  throw  off  his  saddle  to  avoid  a stroke  from  a wing 
which  would  lay  him  prostrate.” 

But  the  ostrich  has  other  enemies  besides  man.  Beasts  as 
well  as  birds  are  said  to  seek  and  devour  their  eggs  with 
great  avidity.  According  to  Sir  James  Alexander  (given  on 
the  authority  of  the  natives  about  the  Orange  River),  when 
the  birds  have  left  their  nest  in  the  middle  of  the  day  in 
search  of  food,  u a white  Egyptian  vulture  may  be  seen  soar- 
ing in  mid-air  with  a stone  between  his  talons.  Having 
carefully  surveyed  the  ground  below  him,  he  suddenly  lets 
fall  the  stone,  and  then  follows  it  in  rapid  descent.  Let  the 
hunter  run  to  the  spot,  and  he  will  find  a nest  of  probably  a 
score  of  eggs,  some  of  them  broken  by  the  vulture.” 

Again,  u the  jackal  is  said  to  roll  the  eggs  together  to  break 
them,  while  the  hyaena 'pushes  them  off  with  its  nose  to  break 
them  at  a distance.” 

Nothing  of  this  kind  ever  came  under  my  notice,  though, 
on  the  other  hand,  I have  not  unfrequently  found  the  bird  it- 
self destroyed  by  lions,  panthers,  wild  dogs,  and  other  beasts. 


264 


SUDDEN  FLOODS. 


CHAPTEK  XXI. 

Sudden  Floods. — John  Allen’s  Sufferings. — Hans  and  the  Author  en- 
ter into  Partnership. — Young  Grass  injurious  to  Cattle. — Depart 
from  Walfisch  Bay. — Attractive  Scenery. — Troops  of  Lions. — Ex- 
traordinary Proceedings  of  Kites. — Flight  of  Butterflies. — Attach- 
ment of  Animals  to  one  another. — Arrival  at  Bichterfeldt ; at  Bar- 
men.— Hans’s  narrow  Escape. — Self-possession. — Heavy  Bains. — ■ 
Bunaway  Ox ; he  tosses  the  Author. — Depart  from  Barmen. — Dif- 
ficulty of  crossing  Bivers. — Encounter  great  numbers  of  Oryxes. 

We  were  now  in  the  depth  of  the  rainy  season.  Eain,  as 
already  said,  rarely  falls  in  the  neighborhood  of  Walfisch  Bay; 
but  the  gathering  of  heavy  clouds  in  the  eastern  horizon  ev- 
ery afternoon,  and  vivid  flashes  of  lightning  accompanied  by 
distant  thunder,  clearly  indicated  that  the  interior  of  the 
country  had  been  flooded.  We  had  soon  a proof  of  this  in 
the  sudden  appearance  of  the  long-dormant  Kuisip  Kiver, 
which,  now  swollen  to  an  unusual  height,  overflowed  its 
banks,  and  threatened  destruction  to  every  thing  that  op- 
posed its  course. 

This  overflow  was  equally  great  in  the  Swakop,  in  the 
lower  course  of  which  our  cattle  were  stationed  under  the 
charge  of  John  Allen.  One  fine  morning,  and  without  the 
least  previous  notice,  down  came  the  torrent,  and  cut  him  off 
from  the  greater  number  of  the  animals,  which  were  grazing 
on  the  opposite  bank.  He  was  an  expert  swimmer,  however, 
and,  boldly  plunging  into  the  swollen  stream,  with  difficulty 
and  danger  succeeded  in  crossing.  But  no  sooner  had  he 
gained  the  bank  than  the  river  rushed  forward  with  tenfold 
velocity,  and  effectually  separated  him  from  the  camp.  Two 
days  and  a night  elapsed  before  the  water  had  sufficiently 
subsided  to  enable  him  to  return.  The  sufferings  of  the  poor 
lad  meanwhile  must  have  been  very  trying,  for  he  was  in  a 


allen’s  sufferings — mans — partnership.  265 

state  of  complete  nudity ; and,  though  he  had  abundance  of 
fuel,  he  had  no  means  of  lighting  a fire.  Lions  and  hyaenas, 
moreover,  were  numerous,  and,  to  add  to  his  misery,  the  oxen 
strayed  during  the  night  in  different  directions.  In  re-collect- 
ing them  the  following  day,  he  had  to  cross  the  most  rugged 
and  jagged  rocks,  and  precipices,  and  scorching  fields  of 
sand,  which  severely  lacerated  and  blistered  his  unprotected 
feet.  Most  men,  I venture  to  say,  under  such  circumstances, 
would  have  left  the  cattle  to  their  fate. 

As  soon  as  the  swollen  Kuisip  had  sufficiently  subsided, 
and  the  emaciated  state  of  the  oxen  permitted,  I returned 
from  the  Bay  to  Scheppmansdorf.  Hans  had  not  been  idle 
during  my  absence.  He  had  put  the  wagon  in  complete  or- 
der, having  replaced  the  axle-tree  (which,  in  our  journey  from 
Barmen,  had  received  a serious  fracture)  with  a new  one,  and 
shortened  the  tires  of  the  wheels.  He  had  also  made  a new 
covering  for  the  vehicle.  I,  too,  had  made  considerable  prog- 
ress with  regard  to  the  arrangements  and  preparations  for 
my  intended  journey.  However,  on  taking  a more  close  sur- 
vey of  my  little  property,  I found  that,  notwithstanding  Mr. 
Galton  had  furnished  me  with  a variety  of  things,  I was  very 
deficient  in  the  most  important,  such  as  articles  for  barter, 
presents  for  chiefs,  instruments  for  taking  observations,  pro- 
visions, &c.  As  none  of  these  were  procurable  by  purchase 
from  the  vessel  then  in  Walfiseh  Bay,  I was  placed  in  an  awk- 
ward position.  To  proceed  without  ample  supplies  of  all 
kinds  was  not  advisable,  nor  did  I much  relish  the  idea  of 
returning  to  the  Cape — the  nearest  point  for  a refit — since 
this  could  only  be  accomplished  by  an  overland  journey  of 
many  months’  duration,  and  the  consequent  loss  of  an  entire 
season.  Yet,  after  duly  weighing  the  matter,  I determined, 
though  with  no  small  regret,  to  adopt  the  latter  course. 

I now  entered  into  partnership  with  Hans,  who,  on  his 
side,  threw  into  the  general  stock  goods,  &c.,  to  the  amount  of 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  sterling. 

M 


266 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SC HEPPMAN SDORF* 


It  was  agreed  between  us  that  we  should  barter  our  wag- 
ons, as  also  every  article  we  could  possibly  dispense  with,  for 
cattle,  with  which  we  should  proceed  to  the  Cape  Colony, 
where  we  understood  live-stock  always  commanded  a ready 
market.  When  we  should  have  turned  the  cattle  into  cash, 
and  provided  ourselves  with  every  thing  needful,  we  purposed 
forthwith  returning  to  Walfisch  Bay ; I with  a view  of  pen- 
etrating to  the  Lake  Ngami,  while  Hans,  in  my  absence,  was 
to  trade  with  the  natives.  Should  he  be  successful,  my  share 
of  the  profits  would  materially  aid  me  in  following  up  my 
geographical  explorations,  which,  I was  aware,  would  be  at- 
tended with  considerable  expense. 

Though  our  stay  at  Scheppmansdorf  and  Walfisch  Bay  had 
been  of  some  duration,  it  was  not  sufficiently  long  to  enable 
the  oxen  to  recover  their  strength.  They  had  not  suffered 
actual  want,  but  the  change  of  pasturage,  more  especially 
as  the  grass  was  then  young  and  green,  instead  of  benefiting 
them,  had  rather  tended  to  deteriorate  their  condition.  In- 
deed, more  than  half  of  our  best  draft-oxen  died. 

The  country  being  at  length  in  tolerable  order  for  travel- 
ing, we  once  more,  on  the  afternoon  of  the  26  th  of  January, 
took  our  departure  from  Scheppmansdorf,  keeping  the  same 
course  as  on  previous  occasions.  Besides  myself  and  Hans, 
our  party  consisted  of  John  Allen,  John  St.  Helena,  Phillip- 
pus,  Onesimus,  and  a few  Damaras. 

The  effect  of  the  late  rains  began  soon  to  show  itself,  for 
even  the  barren  Naarip  was  in  places  richly  carpeted  with 
grass  and  flowers,  and  at  every  step  the  vegetation  became 
more  luxuriant.  As  evening,  with  its  lengthened  shadows, 
began  to  close  upon  us,  the  air  was  filled  with  balmy  and  aro- 
matic scents.  One  little  flower,  of  a milk-white  color,  was 
particularly  sweet  and  attractive.  I could  scarcely  realize 
the  wonderful  change  in  the  landscape,  where,  less  than  a 
month  previously,  I might  have  exclaimed, 


TROOPS  OF  LIONS FLIGHTS  OF  KITES. 


267 


“ Still  the  same  burning  sun ! no  cloud  in  heaven ! 

The  hot  air  quivers  ; and  the  sultry  mist 
Floats  o’er  the  desert  with  a show 
Of  distant  waters.” 

The  presence  of  herds  of  the  beautiful  oryx,  the  lively 
quagga,  and  the  grotesque  gnoo,  which  looked  like 

“ Beasts  of  mixed  and  monstrous  birth, 

Creations  of  some  fabled  earth,” 

served  further  to  enhance  the  interest  of  the  scene. 

These  were  glorious  times  for  the  lions,  who  were  exceed- 
ingly numerous.  On  passing  Tineas  and  Onanis,  both  fa- 
mous strongholds  for  this  animal,  we  started  troops  of  them 
among  the  broken  ground,  but  they  invariably  ran  away, 
and  all  my  efforts  to  get  a shot  at  them  were  unavailing. 

One  day,  while  refreshing  ourselves  and  cattle  in  the  midst 
of  a scene  like  that  just  described,  the  men  being  busy  cut- 
ting up,  or  66  dressing,”  as  butchers  would  say,  two  fine 
oryxes,  the  produce  of  the  morning  hunt,  we  were  suddenly 
surrounded  by  a cloud  of  kites.  The  actions  of  these  birds 
were  most  strange.  Hovering  within  a few  feet  of  our  heads, 
they  eyed  us  steadily  for  a while,  and  then  took  themselves 
off  as  if  satisfied.  Another  batch  would  now  approach  so 
near  that,  in  order  to  avoid  coming  in  contact  with  us,  they 
threw  themselves  on  their  backs,  spreading  out  their  wings 
and  talons,  and  opening  their  beaks,  while  one  or  two  actu- 
ally, with  a swoop,  snatched  the  food  out  of  the  hands  of  the 
natives.  It  was  only  after  having  brought  down  several  with 
the  rifle  that  the  rest  thought  best  to  keep  at  a more  respect- 
ful distance.* 

This  day,  and  during  the  whole  of  the  following,  we  en- 
countered myriads  of  lemon-colored  butterflies.  Their  num- 

* Several  well-known  Australian  explorers  make  mention  of  similar 
occurrences  with  this  identical  bird.  I have  also  heard  that  in  India 
it  is  no  unusual  thing  to  see  hawks  snatch  the  food  from  a person  as 
he  travels  along. 


268 


SINGULAR  ATTACHMENT MRS.  RATH. 


bers  were  so  great  that  the  sound  caused  by  their  wings  re- 
sembled the  distant  murmuring  of  waves  on  the  sea-shore. 
They  always  passed  in  the  same  direction  as  the  wind  blew, 
and,  as  numbers  were  constantly  alighting  on  the  flowers, 
their  appearance  at  such  times  was  not  unlike  the  falling  of 
leaves  before  a gentle  autumnal  breeze. 

Every  day,  at  the  halting-place,  we  were  in  the  habit  of 
training  some  oxen  to  the  “pack”  or  the  saddle.  One  of 
the  animals  particularly  captivated  my  fancy,  and  I was  de- 
sirous of  having  him  well  broken-in.  After  a little  time, 
however,  I learned  that  no  person  dared  any  longer  to  ap- 
proach the  beast.  On  inquiring  the  cause,  I found  that  a 
large  ox  had  taken  it  under  his  protection,  so  to  speak,  and 
would  allow  no  one  to  go  near  it.  Whenever  the  servants 
attempted  to  catch  the  protege , his  protector  would  rush  at 
them  furiously ; and  my  favorite  was  so  well  aware  of  this, 
that  as  soon  as  he  saw  any  one  approaching,  he  would  run  di- 
rectly to  his  “father,”  as  the  natives  not  inaptly  styled  the 
big  ox.  After  having  personally  convinced  myself  of  this 
singular  attachment,  and  dreading  that  some  serious  mischief 
might  ensue,  I deemed  it  prudent  to  kill  my  poor  pet.  For 
many  days  the  “father”  appeared  inconsolable  at  his  loss. 
Running  wildly  about  the  herd,  and  smelling  first  at  one  and 
then  at  the  other,  he  would  moan  and  bellow  most  piteously. 
This  is  another  proof  of  the  strong  attachment  of  which  the 
lower  animals  are  capable.  I may  add  that  I have  frequent- 
ly seen  a sheep,  when  the  butcher  has  been  in  the  act  of  kill- 
ing its  comrade,  run  up  to  the  man  and  butt  at  him  most 
viciously. 

On  the  5th  of  February  we  found  ourselves  again  at  Rich- 
terfeldt.  Mrs.  Rath,  I was  sorry  to  find,  was  suffering  griev- 
ously from  eye-sickness,  so  much  so  that  she  was  unable  to 
bear  the  least  light.  Indeed,  not  long  after,  the  sight  of  one 
of  her  eyes  was  permanently  injured,  if  not  destroyed. 

Here  I and  Hans  separated.  While  he  went  into  Damara- 


ARRIVAL  AT  BARMEN SELF-POSSESSION.  269 

land  to  trade  with  the  natives,  I myself  proceeded  along  the 
Swakop  with  the  wagon.  We  had  only  one,  the  other  hav- 
ing already  been  disposed  of  at  Eikhams.  The  river  was 
still  running  breast  high,  and  we  experienced  much  difficulty 
in  crossing  and  recrossing  it.  One  evening,  just  as  we  were 
descending  the  bank,  from  which  the  flood  had  only  lately 
receded,  the  vehicle  suddenly  sank  so  deep  in  the  mud  as  al- 
most to  hide  the  fore  wheels.  Before  we  could  extricate 
ourselves,  which  was  a work  of  many  hours,  we  were  obliged 
to  dig  a deep  trench  and  pave  it  with  stones. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  11th  of  February  I reached  Bar- 
men, where  on  the  following  day  I was  joined  by  Hans.  He 
had  not  been  very  successful,  and,  moreover,  nearly  got  into 
a scrape  with  the  natives.  Having  one  day  gone  some  dis- 
tance in  advance  of  his  small  party,  he  suddenly,  at  the  turn 
of  a hill,  came  upon  some  women  and  children,  who,  not- 
withstanding his  friendly  assurances,  ran  off  in  great  fright 
to  the  werft,  which  was  not  far  distant,  screaming  vociferous- 
ly. The  men,  thinking  that  they  were  about  to  be  attacked 
hy  the  Namaquas,  instantly  rushed  to  arms;  and  Hans,  on 
coming  in  view  of  the  village,  unexpectedly  found  himself  in 
the  presence  of  several  hundred  Damaras,  each  armed  with  a 
huge  assegai.  Placing  his  gun  against  a tree,  he  walked 
quietly  in  the  midst  of  them.  His  coolness  so  surprised  and 
amazed  them,  that  the  forest  of  bristling  spears,  poised  in 
the  air  ready  to  strike,  were  instantaneously  lowered.  The 
men,  however,  continued  their  yells  and  shouts  for  some 
time,  and  it  was  not 'until  his  interpreter  had  arrived  that 
he  was  able  to  set  their  minds  at  rest  as  to  his  peaceable  in- 
tentions. 

The  effect  often  produced  on  savages  by  the  self-posses- 
sion of  a single  European  is  truly  wonderful.  If  Hans  had 
evinced  the  smallest  sign  of  fear  or  hesitation,  his  fate  prob- 
ably would  have  been  sealed. 

I remember,  not  long  after  this  took  place,  to  have  been 


270 


HEAVY  RAINS RUNAWAY  OX. 


journeying  with  fifty  or  sixty  Dam ar as,  accompanied  only  by 
my  native  interpreter,  when  the  chief  of  the  party  next  to 
whom  I was  walking  turned  sharply  round  and  abruptly  ac- 
costed me  in  the  following  manner:  “How  is  it  that  you 
venture  to  go  thus  alone  among  us  1 We  might  easily  kill  you 
at  any  time.”  Without  a moment’s  hesitation  I replied,  “I 
neither  fear  you  nor  any  other  people,  and  simply  because  I 
never  injured  you.  You,  on  the  other  hand,  are  perpetually 
robbing  and  killing  your  neighbors,  and,  consequently,  you 
have  to  dread  the  revenge  of  their  friends  and  relations.  Be- 
sides,” I jokingly  added,  “it  is  not  quite  so  easy  as  you  may 
imagine  to  pull  c three  hairs  out  of  a lion’s  tail.’  ” This  was 
exactly  hitting  the  nail  on  the  head ; for,  if  they  had  previ- 
ously thought  my  argument  good,  they  were  now  amazingly 
pleased  with  the  jest. 

We  were  delayed  some  little  time  at  Barmen  in  conse- 
quence of  heavy  rains  that  now  almost  daily  deluged  the 
country.  It  was  during  this  stay  that  the  remarkable  thun- 
der-storm occurred  — mentioned  in  a preceding  chapter  — 
which  caused  such  havoc  among  the  native  gardens. 

One  day,  while  endeavoring  to  secure  properly  a young  ox, 
he  broke  loose,  and,  though  almost  the  whole  village  turned 
out  to  assist  us,  we  were  unable  to  recapture  the  animal. 
When  an  ox  thus  made  off,  we  usually  caused  three  or  four 
of  the  steadiest  of  his  comrades  to  be  driven  after  him,  or  we 
put  some  good  runners  on  his  track.  By  the  cattle  or  the 
men  keeping  up  a steady  pace,  they  would  soon  exhaust  the 
refractory  animal,  and  quietly  Spring  him  back  to  the  camp. 
In  this  instance,  Karnarute,  perhaps  the  fleetest  man  in  Da- 
mara-land,  was  sent  in  pursuit. 

While  abiding  his  return  I indulged  in  a warm  bath,  and, 
just  as  I had  finished  my  ablutions,  I observed  him  coming 
back  with  the  runaway.  As  the  animal,  however,  was  not 
proceeding  in  exactly  the  required  direction,  I placed  myself 
in  his  path  for  the  purpose  of  turning  him.  But  as  he  heed- 


A TOSS DEPART  FROM  BARMEN TORRENTS.  271 

ed  not  my  presence,  and  kept  his  own  course,  the  result  was 
that  he  caught  me  with  his  horns  near  the  ribs,  and  pitched 
me  bodily  over  his  back ! With  the  exception  of  being  a 
good  deal  shaken,  however,  I singularly  enough  escaped  un- 
hurt. But  one  of  our  native  servants  was  less  fortunate ; for 
on  trying,  like  myself,  to  stay  the  ox  in  his  headlong  career, 
the  poor  fellow  was  thrown  to  the  ground  by  the  exasperated 
brute,  who  actually  knelt  on  his  body,  and  in  all  probability 
would  have  killed  him  had  not  the  rest  of  the  people  come 
to  his  assistance.  This  accident  taught  us  to  be  more  care- 
ful in  our  future  proceedings  with  an  over-driven  ox. 

On  leaving  Barmen,  we  were  obliged  to  make  a consider- 
able detour  in  order  to  avoid  the  “ Great”  Swakop,  which 
continued  to  send  down  immense  torrents  of  discolored  wa- 
ter. In  crossing  one  of  its  branches,  known  as  the  “ Little” 
Swakop,  our  cattle  were  more  than  once  swept  away  by  the 
violence  of  the  current,  and  our  wagon  had  a very  narrow 
escape  from  being  capsized.  When  half  way  across  the 
stream  it  stuck  fast,  and  for  upward  of  four  hours  all  our  ef- 
forts to  extricate  it  proved  ineffectual.  During  the  whole  of 
this  time  we  were  immersed  up  to  our  necks  in  water,  which 
hourly  increased.  What  with  the  velocity  of  the  current,  the 
depth  of  the  river,  and  the  looseness  of  the  soil  beneath,  we 
were  unable  to  obtain  a firm  footing,  and  men,  oxen,  and 
dogs  were  frequently  jumbled  together  in  the  most  awkward 
confusion.  After  almost  superhuman  exertions,  having  pre- 
viously been  obliged  to  remove  all  the  heavy  things  from  the 
vehicle,  we  succeeded  in  reaching  the  shore  in  safety.  Here 
again,  to  our  dismay,  we  found  our  path  barred  by  immense 
blocks  of  stone  and  the  roughness  of  the  ground  in  general 
along  the  bank.  We  had  no  alternative  but  to  retrace  our 
steps  and  recross  the  river  at  a more  convenient  point,  which 
we  successfully  accomplished  on  the  following  morning,  when 
the  water  had  somewhat  subsided. 

Hence  we  traveled  about  northeast,  alternately  in  the  bed 


272 


THE  ORYX. 


and  on  the  banks  of  a tributary  to  the  Swakop.  On  reach- 
ing the  foot  of  that  picturesque  chain  of  mountains  extend- 
ing in  a northerly  direction  from  Eikhams  toward  Schme- 
len’s  Hope,  where  it  terminates  rather  abruptly,  we  encoun- 
tered great  numbers  of  the  oryx,  which  afforded  us  excellent 
sport. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Oryx ; more  than  one  Species.— Where  found.- — Probably  known 
in  Europe  previous  to  the  discovery  of  the  Passage  round  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope. — Description  of  the  Oryx. — Gregarious. — Speed. — 
Food. — Water  not  necessary  to  its  existence. — -Will  face  the  Lion. 
— Formidable  Horns.  — Their  Use.— Flesh.  — The  Chase  of  this 
AnimaL 

Three  distinct  species  of  oryxes^  are  recognized  by  natu- 
ralists, ranging  over  a great  extent  of  the  more  desert  and 
thinly-peopled  districts  of  Africa.  In  the  northern  part  of 
the  continent  the  type  is  represented  by  the  leucoryx,  f which 
strikingly  resembles  the  oryx  or  gemsbok  (oryx  capensis ),  of 
which  the  accompanying  drawing  is  an  excellent  represent- 
ation. 

The  gemsbok  (so  called  by  the  Dutch  from  a supposed 
resemblance  to  the  chamois  of  Europe)  seems  restricted  to 
the  central  and  western  parts  of  Southern  Africa,  few  or 
none  being  found  in  its  eastern  portion.  It  was  once  com- 
mon within  the  colony,  but  what  with  its  shy  habits,  the 

* Oryx  capensis , oryx  beisa , and  oryfc  leucoryx . 
f The  numerous  engravings  of  the  leucoryx  on  the  sculptures  of 
Egypt  clearly  indicate  that  this  animal  was  well  known  to  the  nations 
inhabiting  the  valley  of  the  Nile.  It  was  chosen  as  an  emblem,  but 
whether  as  a good  or  evil  symbol  is  uncertain,  though  some  modern 
writers  seem  in  favor  of  the  former  opinion.  The  wealthy  Egyptians 
kept  a great  number  of  this  antelope  in  a tame  state,  but  it  does  not 
appear  to  have  been  considered  a sacred  animal.  Indeed,  it  was  in- 
discriminately sacrificed  to  the  gods,  and  slaughtered  for  the  table. 


ORYX  OR  GEMSBOK, 


274 


THE  GEMSBOK, 


constant  persecution  it  suffers,  and  the  advance  of  civiliza- 
tion, its  numbers  are  now  rapidly  decreasing,  and  few  at  the 
present  day  are  to  be  found  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
British  territory. 

Judging  from  some  ancient  coats  of  arms,  it  would  really 
seem  that  the  gemsbok  was  known  to  Europeans  even  before 
the  Portuguese  discovered  the  passage  round  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.*  We  are  told  that  John  of  Lancaster,  the  great 
Duke  of  Bedford,  bore  his  arms  supported  by  this  animal, 
which  is  still  on  the  sinister  side  of  the  heraldic  shield  of  the 
present  ducal  house  of  Bedford.  Among  various  embellish- 
ments, which  are  painted  in  the  Bruges  style  of  the  period, 
in  a Prayer-book  once  the  property  of  John  of  Lancaster, 
are  found  his  armorial  devices,  with  the  antelope  black, 
whose  straight  spiral  horns,  although  placed  almost  at  right 
angles  with  the  head,  are  evidently  intended  for  those  of  the 
oryx.  The  animal  is  adorned  with  gilded  tusks,  but  in  other 
respects  is  not  ill  drawn.  It  is  conjectured  that  this  book 
was  illuminated  on  the  marriage  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford  with 
Anne,  Princess  of  Burgundy.  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  can  not 
well  be  later  than  the  period  of  his  death  in  the  year  1435. 

The  gemsbok  is  a very  remarkable  animal,  and,  though 
possessed  of  many  of  those  beautiful  peculiarities  which  char- 
acterize antelopes,  there  is  something  anomalous  about  him. 
He  has  the  mane  and  tail  of  the  horse,  the  head  and  color- 
ing of  the  ass,  and  the  legs  and  feet  of  the  antelope.  The 
horns  are  about  three  feet  in  length,  slightly  curved  back- 
ward, ringed  at  the  base,  and  of  a shining  black  color.  Those 
of  the  female  are  somewhat  longer  than  the  male’s,  but  of 
more  slender  proportions.  About  one  third  of  their  entire 
length  is  hollow,  resting  on  a bony  protuberance.  When 

* It  is  possible  that  heralds  became  acquainted  with  this  animal,  or 
at  least  with  the  leucoryx,  through  the  Crusaders.  Or  perhaps  the 
knowledge  was  obtained  from  the  Romans,  who,  according  to  Martial, 
had  the  oryx  at  their  games. 


COLOR SPEED FOOD. 


275 


both  horns  are  perfect,  and  one  has  a side  view  of  the  ani- 
mal, they  appear  as  one  and  the  same,  from  which  circum- 
stance many  believe  the  gemsbok  to  be  the  unicorn*  of 
Scripture. 

The  gemsbok  is  a truly  noble  beast.  The  adult  male 
(about  the  size  of  an  ass)  not  unfrequently  attains  nearly 
four  feet  in  height  at  the  shoulder,  and  about  ten  in  extreme 
length.  The  general  color  of  the  coat  is  a “ vinous  buff."’ 
The  female  is  very  similar  in  appearance,  but  slighter  in 
form.  The  calves  are  of  a reddish  cream-color,  which,  as  they 
grow  up,  becomes  paler  or  whitish.  They  are  easily  tamed, 
but  sometimes  exhibit  a vicious  and  treacherous  disposition. 
Hans  more  than  once  domesticated  them,  and  I myself  have 
had  the  young  alive. 

The  gemsbok  may  be  said  to  be  gregarious  in  its  habits ; 
for,  though  rarely  seen  together  in  any  great  number,  it  is 
not  often  met  singly. 

Of  all  the  larger  quadrupeds  of  South  Africa  with  which 
I can  claim  acquaintance,  the  gemsbok  is  undoubtedly  the 
swiftest.  Its  speed  is  nearly  equal  to  that  of  the  horse.  Un- 
less a man  be  a “ light  weight”  and  very  well  mounted,  he 
has  little  chance  of  coming  up  with  it. 

The  food  of  the  gemsbok  consists  of  grass,  succulent  plants 
(often  of  a very  acrid  taste),  shrubs,  &c. 

As  with  several  other  animals  indigenous  to  Southern 
Africa,  water  is  not  supposed  to  be  essential  to  the  existence 
of  the  gemsbok.  Gordon  Gumming,  indeed,  tells  us  “that 
it  never  by  any  chance  tastes  water.”  But  this,  I appre- 
hend, is  a mistake;  for  I have  not  only  seen  it  on  several 
occasions  while  in  the  very  act  of  drinking,  but  perfectly  well 
authenticated  instances  have  come  to  my  knowledge  where 
whole  troops  of  these  animals  have  been  discovered  either 
dead  or  in  a dying  state  near  pools  purposely  poisoned  by  the 

' * For  some  curious  remarks  on  the  unicorn,  see  Barrow,  vol.  ii.,  p. 
269,  et  seq. 


276 


THE  GEMSBOK  AND  THE  LION. 


natives  for  the  capture  of  wild  animals.  The  gemsbok,  it  is 
true,  is  found  in  the  most  dreary  and  desolate  districts  far 
distant  from  water : 

u A region  of  drought,  where  no  river  glides, 

Nor  rippling  brook  with  osier’d  sides — 

With  no  reedy  pool,  nor  mossy  fountain, 

Nor  shady  tree,  nor  cloud-capp’d  mountain.” 

Nevertheless  (more  especially  at  early  morn),  it  occasionally 
frequents  the  banks  of  periodical  rivers,  flanked  or  bordered 
by  broken  ground  or  hills ; and  it  is  to  such  localities,  when 
pursued,  that  it  flies  for  refuge. 

Though  the  gemsbok  has  rarely,  if  ever,  been  known  to 
attack  man,  it  is  quite  capable  of  defending  itself.  With  its 
formidable  horns  it  can  strike  an  object  (that  is,  inflict 
wounds)  in  front  as  well  as  behind,  which,  from  their  point- 
ing backward,  was  hardly  to  be  expected.  When  driven  to 
bay  by  dogs,  it  has  been  seen  to  place  its  head  between  its 
legs  (the  tips  of  its  horns,  in  the  while,  almost  resting  on  the 
ground),  and  to  rip  open,  or  toss  into  the  air,  such  of  its  as- 
sailants as  have  had  the  boldness  to  confront  it.  In  this 
manner  Hans  told  me  he  lost,  at  different  times,  the  best  dogs 
in  his  pack. 

In  open  ground,  the  gemsbok,  it  is  said,  will  stand  on  the 
defensive  even  against  the  lion  himself.  Hans,  indeed,  knew 
an  instance  where  a lion  and  a gemsbok  were  found  lying 
dead  in  each  other’s  grasp,  the  latter  having,  with  his  horns, 
transfixed  his  assailant ! The  carcasses  of  the  two  were  dis- 
covered before  decomposition  had  taken  place.  The  lion 
seems  to  have  a great  dread  of  the  horns  of  the  gemsbok; 
for,  by  all  accounts,  he  rarely  ventures  to  attack  except  by 
stealth. 

The  horns  of  this  animal  are  used  by  the  natives  for  a va- 
riety # of  purposes.  When  polished,  they  form  strong  and 
handsome  walking-sticks.  The  flesh,  which  is  well  tasted,  is 
highly  prized. 


THE  CHASE ARRIVAL  AT  EIKHAMS. 


277 


“ Owing  to  the  uneven  nature  of  the  ground  which  the 
oryx  frequents/’  says  Gordon  Cumming,  “ its  shy  and  sus- 
picious disposition,  and  the  extreme  distances  from  water  to 
which  it  must  be  followed,  it  is  never  stalked  or  driven  to  an 
ambush  like  other  antelopes,  but  is  hunted  on  horseback,  and 
ridden  down  by  a long,  severe,  tail-on-end  chase.”  This  is 
not  exactly  correct,  for  when  on  foot  I have  killed  great 
numbers  of  these  animals.  Moreover,  were  the  option  left 
me,  I would  rather  “ stalk”  them  than  pursue  them  on  horse- 
back. Such  was  also  Hans’s  experience,  who,  during  his 
seven  years’  nomade  life  in  Damara-land,  has  probably  kill- 
ed more  gemsboks  than  any  hunter  in  Southern  Africa.  I 
have  also  known  this  animal  to  be  driven  into  pitfalls. 

The  gemsbok,  as  a rule,  runs,  like  the  eland,  against  the 
wind  when  pursued. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Arrival  at  Eikhams. — Native  Dogs  ; cruelly  treated. — Jonker  Afrika- 
ner.— The  Author  visits  the  Red  Nation  ; the  bad  Repute  of  these 
People. — The  Author  attacked  by  Ophthalmia. — The  embryo  Lo- 
cust.— The  “ flying”  Locust ; its  Devastations. — The  Locust-bird. 
— Arrival  at  Rehoboth  ; the  Place  described. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  20th  of  February  we  drove  in  to 
Eikhams  during  a terrific  thunder-storm,  drenched  to  the 
skin.  The  deluging  rain  continued  to  descend  the  whole  of 
the  ensuing  night,  and  the  place  on  the  following  morning 
looked  like  a foaming  torrent.  In  consequence  of  this  inun- 
dation, our  ox-gear,  and,  in  short,  every  thing  untanned,  was 
completely  saturated,  and  greatly  resembled  a heap  of  moist 
wash-leather. 

The  starved  native  dogs  had  taken  advantage  of  this  cir- 
cumstance, and  devoured  rather  more  than  two  feet  of  our 
“ trek-touw.”  The  curs  are  of  the  greatest  annoyance  to  the 
traveler  in  Namaqua-land,  for,  since  the  owners  rarely  feed 


278 


NATIVE  DOGS CRUEL  TREATMENT. 


them,  they  greedily  devour  almost  every  thing  they  come 
across.  I have  had  my  powder-flask,  “veld”  shoes,  and 
even  rifle  (the  stock  of  which  may  have  happened  to  be  cov- 
ered with  hide,  in  order  to  keep  it  from  cracking)  abstracted 
by  them  from  my  side  during  the  night.  A person’s  first 
impulse  on  making  the  discovery  is  to  vow  vengeance  on  the 
head  of  the  thieves ; but,  on  seeing  the  emaciated  state  of  the 
poor  creatures,  in  which  every  rib  might  be  counted,  anger 
is  turned  into  pity,  and  the  uplifted  arm,  ready  to  strike  the 
blow,  falls  to  its  place. 

It  has  been  said  with  much  truth  by  a missionary  that 
“the  Namaquas  feed  their  dogs  with  stripes.”  From  being 
constantly  kicked  and  knocked  about  in  the  most  brutal 
manner,  they  gradually  become  so  accustomed  to  ill-treat- 
ment that  flogging  produces  little  or  no  effect.  When  struck, 
they  merely  shrug  up  their  backs,  open  their  jaws,  grin  in  a 
ghastly  manner,  and,  if  the  chastisement  be  continued,  howl 
most  piteously.  This,  and  their  skeleton  appearance,  are 
enough  to  sicken  a person. 

It  would  be  somewhat  difficult  to  determine  to  what  spe- 
cies of  the  canine  race  these  dogs  belong,  or  from  what  breed 
they  originally  descended.  They  bear  some  slight  resem- 
blance to  those  I have  seen  at  the  homesteads  of  the  Swedish 
peasants.* 

Jonker  had  removed  his  werft  to  some  little  distance  from 
Eikhams.  He  invariably  did  this  every  year  after  the  rains, 
in  order  to  save  the  pasturage  for  the  dry  season.  I rode 
over  to  the  village,  where  I found  nearly  the  whole  tribe — 

* Mr.  Lichtenstein,  when  speaking  of  the  Bushmen  dogs,  which 
may  he  considered  identical  with  those  of  the  Hottentots,  thus  writes  : 
“These  dogs,  in  their  size  and  form,  have  a striking  resemblance  to 
the  black-hacked  fox  of  Southern  Africa,  the  jackal,  as  he  is  falsely 
called,  canis  mesomelas ; so  that  it  seems  very  probable  that  the  one  is 
really  a descendant  from  the  other,  only  that  the  properties  of  the  an- 
imal are,  in  the  course  of  time,  somewhat  changed,  from  its  having 
been  tamed  and  trained  by  the  hand  of  man.” 


STRENGTH  OF  JONKER’ S TRIBE THE  RED  NATION.  279 

women  and  children,  at  least — congregated.  This  was  an 
opportunity  I had  long  desired,  since  it  would  enable  me  to 
form  a rough  estimate  of  their  number.  Jonker  and  most 
of  the  men  were  absent ; but  by  counting  the  huts,  and  tak- 
ing the  average  number  of  individuals  to  each,  I came  to  the 
conclusion  that  the  aggregate  of  Namaquas  capable  of  carry- 
ing arms  did  not  exceed  five  hundred.  The  servants,  or 
rather  slaves,  on  the  other  hand,  consisting  of  Bushmen,  Hill- 
Damaras,  and  impoverished  Damaras,  were  probably  three 
or  four  times  as  numerous.  By  supposing  each  man  to  be 
possessed  of  one  gun,  which  is  perhaps  below  the  mark,  Jon- 
ker’s tribe  possess  in  round  numbers  two  thousand  firelocks. 
If  their  courage  corresponded  to  their  numerical  strength, 
they  might  prove  a formidable  body  even  to  Europeans,  but 
this  is  fortunately  far  from  being  the  case. 

Jonker  was  indebted  to  us  several  head  of  cattle,  and  we 
were  accordingly  anxious  for  his  return,  but  no  person  could 
or  would  inform  us  when  this  was  likely  to  happen.  With 
regard  to  other  inquiries,  such  as  the  object  and  motive  of 
his  present  journey,  the  answers  were  equally  unsatisfactory. 
Nevertheless,  the  shyness  of  the  natives,  when  interrogated 
on  these  points,  coupled  with  Our  knowledge  that  Jonker 
was  accompanied  by  almost  all  his  warriors,  made  us  sus- 
pect that  he  had  gone  on  a plundering  expedition  against  the 
Damaras. 

After  a few  days’  stay  at  Eikhams  we  directed  our  steps 
to  a powerful  tribe  of  Namaquas,  known  as  the  “ Boode-Na- 
tie,”  or  Bed  Nation,  I had  two  objects  in  view  for  visiting 
these  people,  namely,  to  trade,  and  to  learn  something  about 
them  and  their  country.  Every  one  I met,  including  the 
missionaries,  represented  them  as  the  most  barbarous  and 
brutal  of  all  the  Hottentots  in  Great  Namaqua-land.  Only 
one  trader  had  visited  them,  and  him  they  treated  so  shame- 
fully as  to  discourage  others  from  making  a like  attempt.  I 
was  determined,  however,  if  possible,  to  ascertain  the  cause 


280 


INSOLENCE  OF  THE  CHIEF CORNELIUS. 


of  their  evil  reputation,  and  to  endeavor  to  establish  friendly 
relations  with  them. 

My  reception  was  such  as  to  corroborate  the  ill  reports 
that  had  reached  my  ears.  At  the  first  werft  we  came  to 
they  stole  a large  quantity  of  clothing  belonging  to  our  serv- 
ants, but,  after  some  trouble,  we  succeeded  in  recovering  the 
property.  At  the  next  village  they  threatened  to  shoot  us 
on  the  spot  if  we  did  not  sell  our  things  at  their  own  terms ! 
Three  different  times  their  chief  sent  to  say  that  if  we  at- 
tempted to  stir  without  his  orders  he  would  fire  upon  us.  To 
this  insolent  message  we  quietly  replied  that  he  would  have 
been  at  liberty  to  prevent  our  coming  to  his  werft,  but,  with 
regard  to  our  departure,  we  should  consult  our  own  conven- 
ience. Finding  us  determined,  and  that  we  were  preparing 
to  start,  he  soon  came  to  terms,  and  in  the  most  humble 
manner  offered  an  explanation  and  apology  for  his  rude  con- 
duct, which,  under  the  circumstances,  we  thought  it  best  to 
accept. 

We  were  just  about  to  turn  our  backs  upon  the  Red  Na- 
tion when  a messenger  arrived  from  Cornelius,  the  chief, 
with  a civil  and  pressing  invitation  to  visit  him  at  his  kraal. 
After  some  little  hesitation,  we  consented,  and  speedily  fol- 
lowed the  envoy.  On  arriving  at  the  werft,  prettily  situated 
at  the  foot  of  a hill  near  the  banks  of  the  Kubakop  River, 
which  here  forced  its  passage  through  a very  remarkable 
range  of  mountains,  I immediately  called  the  tribe  together 
and  reproached  them  for  their  bad  behavior  toward  strangers. 
I moreover  explained  to  them  the  impolicy  of  such  conduct, 
and  how  very  injurious  it  would  prove  to  their  own  interest, 
since  they  were  entirely  dependent  on  the  Cape  Colony  for 
their  supplies  of  arms  and  ammunition,  clothing,  and  other 
commodities. 

My  efforts  in  bringing  about  a thorough  good  understand- 
ing were  successful.  A short  time  afterward,  indeed,  a num- 
ber of  traders,  encouraged  by  my  favorable  reception,  visited 


BUT  FEW  SLAVES' — ATTACKED  BY  OPHTHALMIA.  281 

these  people,  and  supplied  their  wants  at  the  same  rate  as 
paid  by  the  other  Hottentot  tribes  residing  in  Great  Nama- 
qua-Iand.  Moreover,  they  have  lately  admitted  a mission- 
ary among  them,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  through  good  ex- 
amples they  may  ultimately  be  civilized. 

The  chief  stronghold  of  the  Eed  Nation  is  about  the  Ku- 
bakop,  but  a part  of  the  tribe  is  settled  on  the  Fish  Eiver. 
Taken  as  a whole,  they  possess  probably  the  worst  portion 
of  the  northern  part  of  Great  Namaqua-land.  They  call 
themselves  Kaikhous , a word  signifying  large  ridges  of  hills, 
in  contradistinction  to  Zwartboi’s  tribe,  the  name  of  which  is 
KhariJchouSy  or  small  ridges.  They  look  upon  Jonker  and 
his  people,  who  are  known  as  u Oerlam,”  not  only  with  jeal- 
ousy, but  with  something  akin  to  contempt. 

I found  but  few  Damara  slaves  among  the  Eed  Nation, 
which  at  first  struck  me  as  singular,  for  their  outrage  on  the 
Damaras  was,  at  least,  of  equal  extent  to  that  perpetrated 
by  the  rest  of  the  northern  Namaquas.  I could  only  explain 
this  by  supposing  that  they  killed  their  prisoners.  I after- 
ward learned  that  my  conjecture  was  correct,  and  that,  hav- 
ing surrounded  a werft,  they  coolly  shot  down  every  soul, 
women  and  children  not  excepted.  However,  having  lately 
discovered  that  the  Damaras  make  useful  drudges,  they  have, 
from  interested  motives,  become  less  bloody-minded. 

While  staying  with  Cornelius  I was  attacked  by  ophthal- 
mia, and  for  a few  days  suffered  great  agonies,  but,  fortunate- 
ly, before  the  disease  had  arrived  at  its  maximum,  it  took  a 
favorable  turn. 

Having  succeeded  in  disposing  of  the  greater  part  of  our 
goods,  we  took  leave  of  our  host,  and  bent  our  steps  toward 
Eehoboth,  which  was  on  our  road  to  the  Cape.  The  day 
after  our  departure  we  met  with  vast  numbers  of  the  larvas 
of  the  locust  ( gryllus  devastator , Lich.),  commonly  called  by 
the  Boers  “voet- gangers,”  literally,  foot -goers.  In  some 
places  they  might  be  seen  packed  in  layers  several  inches  in 


282 


“ VOET-GANGERS” LOCUSTS. 

thickness,  and  myriads  were  crushed  and  maimed  by  our 
wagon  and  cattle.  Toward  nightfall  they  crawled  on  to  the 
bushes  and  the  shrubs,  many  of  which,  owing  to  their  weight 
and  numbers,  were  either  bowed  down  to  the  ground  or  broken 
short  off.  They  were  of  a reddish  color,  with  dark  mark- 
ings, and,  as  they  hung  thus  suspended,  they  looked  like  clus- 
ters of  rich  fruit.  As  they  hopped  along  the  path  and 
among  the  grass,  their  appearance  was  no  less  curious  and 
striking. 

These  “ voet-gangers”  are  justly  dreaded  by  the  colonists, 
as  no  obstacle  seems  capable  of  staying  their  progress.  They 
are  said  to  cross  stagnant  pools — ay,  even  the  Orange  River 
— by  the  leading  multitudes  throwing  themselves  heedlessly 
into  the  water,  where  they  are  drowned,  thus  affording  the 
survivors  a temporary  bridge.  Fires,  which  are  lighted  in 
their  path  in  the  hope  of  staying  their  course,  are  extinguish- 
ed by  their  myriads.  “All  human  endeavors  to  diminish 
their  numbers,”  says  a recent  author,  “ would  appear  like  at- 
tempting to  drain  the  ocean  by  a pump.” 

As  we  traveled  on  next  morning  we  encountered  the  locust 
itself,  and  in  such  masses  as  literally  to  darken  the  air. 

“ Onward  they  came,  a dark  continuous  cloud 
Of  congregated  myriads  numberless, 

The  rushing  of  whose  wings  was  as  the  sound 
Of  a broad  river,  headlong  in  its  course 
Plunged  from  a mountain  summit,  or  the  roar 
Of  a wild  ocean  in  the  autumn  storm, 

Shattering  its  billows  on  a shore  of  rocks.” 

Our  wagon,  or  any  other  equally  conspicuous  object,  could 
positively  not  be  distinguished  at  the  distance  of  one  hundred 
paces.  In  a particular  spot,  within  the  circumference  of  a 
mile  they  had  not  left  a particle  of  any  green  thing.  The 
several  columns  that  crossed  our  path  in  the  course  of  the 
day  must  each  have  been  many  miles  in  length  and  breadth. 
The  noise  of  their  wings  was  very  great,  not  unlike  that 


LOCUSTS THEIR  DEVASTATIONS. 


283 


caused  by  a gale  of  wind  whistling  through  the  shrouds  of  a 
ship  at  anchor.  It  was  interesting  to  witness  at  a distance 
the  various  shapes  and  forms  that  these  columns  assumed, 
more  especially  when  crossing  mountain  ranges.  At  one 
time  they  would  rise  abruptly  in  a compact  body,  as  if  pro- 
pelled by  a strong  gust  of  wind  ; then,  suddenly  sinking,  they 
would  disperse  into  smaller  battalions,  not  unlike  vapors 
floating  about  a hill  side  at  early  morn,  and  when  slightly 
agitated  by  the  breeze ; or  they  would  resemble  huge  col- 
umns of  sand  or  smoke,  changing  every  minute  their  shape 
and  evolutions. 

During  their  flight  numbers  were  constantly  alighting,  an 
action  which  has  not  inaptly  been  compared  to  the  falling  of 
large  snow-flakes.  It  is,  however,  not  until  the  approach  of 
night  that  they  encamp.  Woe  to  the  spot  they  select  as  a 
resting-place ! When  the  rising  sun  again  speeds  their  de- 
parture, localities  which,  on  the  preceding  evening,  were  rich 
in  vegetation,  are  bare  and  naked  as  the  Sahara.  “ When 
a swarm  alights  on  a garden,”  says  Mr.  Moffat,  “ or  even 
fields,  the  crop  for  one  season  is  destroyed.  I have  observed 
a field  of  young  maize  devoured  in  the  space  of  two  hours. 
They  eat  not  only  tobacco  and  every  other  vegetable,  but  also 
flannel  and  linen.” 

From  what  has  been  said,  it  is  evident  that  the  husband- 
man has  just  reason  to  be  appalled  at  the  approach  of  this  de- 
structive insect.  To  the  poor  Bushmen,  “ the  children  of  the 
desert,”  on  the  other  hand,  who  have  neither  herds  to  lose 
by  famine  nor  corn-fields  to  be  destroyed  by  their  devasta- 
tions, their  arrival  is  a cause  of  rejoicing.  Pringle,  in  his 
song  of  the  wild  Bushman,  has  the  following  lines  : 

“Yea,  even  the  wasting  locust-swarm, 

Which  mighty  nations  dread, 

To  me  nor  terror  brings  nor  harm ; 

I make  of  them  my  bread.” 

On  the  present  occasion  we  found  a great  number  of  Hot- 


284  EATEN  BY  THE  NATIVES LOCUST-BIRD. 

tentots,  as  also  Hill-Damaras,  busy  collecting  the  locusts, 
which  was  done  in  a very  simple  and  ingenious  manner. 
Having  gathered  together  large  quantities  of  dry  fuel,  fires 
were  lighted  directly  in  their  path,  and  as  the  insects  passed 
over  the  flames,  their  wings  were  scorched,  and  they  fell 
helplessly  to  the  ground. 

They  are  also  collected  by  cart-loads  at  night  when  they 
have  retired  to  rest ; but  this  plan  is  occasionally  attended 
with  danger.  “It  has  happened  that  in  gathering  them 
people  have  been  bitten  by  venomous  reptiles.  On  one  occa- 
sion a woman  had  been  traveling  several  miles  with  a large 
bundle  of  locusts  on  her  head,  when  a serpent,  which  had 
been  put  into  the  sack  with  them,  found  its  way  out.  The 
woman,  supposing  it  to  be  a thong  dangling  about  her  shoul- 
ders, laid  hold  of  it  with  her  hand,  and  feeling  that  it  was  alive, 
instantly  precipitated  the  bundle  to  the  ground  and  fled.” 

The  locusts,  after  being  partially  roasted,  are  eaten  fresh, 
or  they  are  dried  in  the  hot  ashes,  and  then  stored  away  for 
future  emergences.  The  natives  reduce  them  also  to  powder 
or  meal  by  means  of  two  stones  or  a wooden  mortar,  which 
powder,  when  mixed  with  water,  produces  a kind  of  soup  or 
stir-about.  I have  tasted  locusts  prepared  in  various  ways, 
but  I can  not  say  that  I have  found  them  very  palatable. 
But  they  must  contain  a vast  deal  of  nourishment,  since  the 
poor  people  thrive  wonderfully  on  them. 

Birds  of  almost  every  description,  more  especially  storks 
and  kites,  are  seen  devouring  them  greedily. 

The  great  enemy  of  the  locust,  however,  is  the  locust-bird, 
or  the  “spring-haan  vogel,”  as  it  is  termed  by  the  colonists. 
This  is  described  as  a species  of  thrush,  about  the  size  of  a 
swallow,  and  is  a constant  attendant  on  the  insect.  It  is 
even  said  to  build  its  nest  and  rear  its  young  in  the  midst  of 
locusts,  which,  moreover,  occasionally  prey  on  each  other ; 
for  when  a locust  becomes  maimed  or  crippled,  its  compan- 
ions instantly  pounce  upon  and  devour  it. 


INNUMERABLE  SWARMS  OF  LOCUSTS. 


285 


The  locust  which  causes  such  havoc  to  vegetation  in  Af- 
rica is  said  to  be  a different  species  to  that  common  to  Asia, 
where  also,  though  perhaps  not  to  the  same  extent,  it  com- 
mits great  ravages. 

The  Cape  Colony  has  been  particularly  subject  to  this 
dreadful  scourge,  which  is  invariably  followed  by  famine. 
The  inroads  of  the  locusts  are  periodical ; according  to  Prin- 
gle, about  once  every  fifteen  years.  In  1808,  after  having 
laid  waste  a considerable  portion  of  the  country,*  they  dis- 
appeared, and  did  not  return  till  1824.  They  then  remain- 
ed for  several  years,  but  in  1830  took  their  departure. 

The  proper  home  of  the  locust  is  yet  a mystery.  Expe- 
rience only  tells  us  that  they  come  southward  from  the 
north.  They  rarely  appear  in  any  number  except  in  years 
of  abundance. 

Almost  every  day  during  several  months  we  encountered 
innumerable  swarms  of  these  insects,  and  it  was  not  till  we 
had  crossed  the  Orange  Eiver  that  we  fairly  lost  sight  of 
them. 

* Barrow,  who  wrote  about  this  period,  and  who  gives  a remarkable 
account  of  the  devastations  of  these  insects,  probably  alludes  to  this 
very  circumstance  when  he  says, 

“ The  present  year  is  the  third  of  their  continuance,  and  their  in- 
crease has  far  exceeded  that  of  a geometrical  progression  whose  ratio 
is  a million.  For  ten  years  preceding  their  present  visit  the  colony 
had  been  entirely  freed  from  them.  Their  last  departure  was  rather 
singular.  All  the  full-grown  insects  were  driven  into  the  sea  by  a 
tempestuous  northeast  wind,  and  were  afterward  cast  upon  the  beach, 
where,  it  is  said,  they  formed  a bank  of  three  or  four  feet  high,  which 
extended  from  the  mouth  of  the  Bosjeman’s  Eiver  to  that  of  the  Becka, 
a distance  of  near  fifty  English  miles ; and  it  is  asserted  that  when 
this  mass  became  putrid,  and  the  wind  was  at  southeast,  the  stench 
was  sensibly  felt  in  several  parts  of  Sneuwberg.  * * * The  larvas 

at  the  same  time  were  emigrating  to  the  northward.  The  column  of 
these  imperfect  insects  passed  the  houses  of  two  of  our  party,  who  as- 
sured me  that  it  continued  moving  forward,  without  any  interruption 
except  by  night,  for  more  than  a month.” 


286  REHOBOTH MESSRS.  KLEINSCHMIDT  AND  VOLLMER. 

On  the  15th  of  March  we  reached  Rehoboth,  where,  as 
already  said,  there  is  a missionary  station  pertaining  to  the 
Rhenish  Society.  Here  I had  the  pleasure  of  making  the 
acquaintance  of  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Kleinschmidt  and  Yollmer. 
They  resided  in  substantial  clay  houses  thatched  with  reeds. 
The  church,  in  the  erection  of  which  Mr.  Kleinschmidt  had 
taken  a very  active  part,  is  a handsome  and  roomy  structure, 
capable  of  holding  several  hundred  people.  From  the  dis- 
proportionate breadth  of  the  building,  however,  the  roof 
could  not  sustain  its  own  weight,  and  some  time  previously 
to  my  visit  the  greater  part  had  fallen  down.  Divine  serv- 
ice, nevertheless,  continued  to  be  performed  in  that  portion 
of  the  building  which  remained  uninjured. 

At  this  period  the  station  was  in  a most  flourishing  con- 
dition. But,  alas ! circumstances  have  since  changed,  and 
it  is  now  a question  whether  the  mission  can  continue  to  ex- 
ist. Should  it  be  abandoned,  ten  years  of  unremitted  labor 
and  exertion  will  be  entirely  lost,  and  I sadly  fear  it  will 
break  the  heart  of  its  founder — the  worthy  and  venerable 
Kleinschmidt. 

Rehoboth  is  well  supplied  with  good  and  clear  water  from 
a fountain  hard  by.  There  is  also  a copious  warm  spring 
flowing  from  a limestone  rock ; but  the  water  is  looked  upon 
as  unwholesome,  and  only  made  use  of  for  cattle,  washing  of 
clothes,  and  the  seasoning  of  timber. 

The  warm  spring  in  question  is  situated  on  rising  ground, 
and  consequently  affords  facilities  for  irrigation,  though,  un- 
fortunately, the  soil  is  scanty  and  unfavorable  for  gardening. 
The  missionaries  and  a few  natives  have  by  perseverance 
succeeded  in  fertilizing  patches  of  ground  which  are  tolerably 
productive.  Indeed,  I have  known  a fig-tree — certainly  not 
above  five  or  six  feet  in  height — in  Mr.  Klein schmidt’s  gar- 
den to  produce  a dish  of  fruit  every  day  for  a space  of  more 
than  three  months.  The  garden  vegetables  which  thrive  best 
are  pumpkins,  calabashes,  watermelons,  &c.  The  wild  gourd, 


RETURN  TO  EIKHAMS VISIT  EACH  AM  AH  A.  287 

or  melon,  is  also  found  in  great  abundance  about  Rehoboth. 
When  ripe,  this  fruit  is  collected  by  the  natives,  dried,  and 
stored  away  for  seasons  of  scarcity. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Return  to  Eikhams. — Ugly  Fall. — Splendid  Landscape. — Jonker’s  De- 
linquencies.— How  to  manage  the  Natives. — The  Ondara.— It  kills  a 
Man. — How  his  Comrade  revenges  him. — Medical  Properties  of  the 
Ondara. — The  Cockatrice. — The  Cobra  di  Capella. — The  Puff-ad- 
der.— The  Spitting  Snake. — The  Black  Snake. — Few  Deaths  caused 
by  Snakes. — Antidotes  for  Snake-bites. — Return  to  Rehoboth, 

Leaving  Hans  in  charge  of  the  men  and  cattle,  I posted 
back  to  Eikhams,  a distance  of  about  sixty  miles,  in  the  hope 
of  recovering  our  debt  from  Jonker ; but  he  had  not  yet  re- 
turned. By  this  time,  however,  I received  positive  informa- 
tion that  he  and  his  people  were  engaged  in  a cattle-lifting 
foray.  To  enable  me  to  acquire  full  details  of  their  proceed- 
ings, I set  off  for  Barmen,  the  head-quarter  for  information 
as  respects  Damara-land.  Here  fugitives  arrived  daily,  bring- 
ing tidings  of  plunder  and  bloodshed.  I felt  grieved  and  an- 
gry at  Jonker’s  outrageous  behavior.  Only  a year  before  he 
had  most  solemnly  promised  Mr.  Galton  never  again  to  mo- 
lest the  Damaras. 

Hearing  that  Kachamaha,  the  most  powerful  chief  in  the 
country  since  the  death  of  Kahichene,  resided  not  far  from 
Barmen,  and  that  he  had  been  a severe  sufferer  by  the  depre- 
dations of  the  Namaquas,  I determined  to  visit  him,  with  a 
view  of  ascertaining  the  extent  of  his  own  and  his  country- 
men’s losses. 

I found  Kachamalia’s  kraal  on  the  steep  banks  of  a peri- 
odical stream,  one  of  the  largest  tributaries  of  the  Swakop. 
The  situation  was  most  picturesque.  The  wonderful  luxu- 
riance of  the  vegetation,  and  extreme  beauty  of  the  landscape 
at  this  season,  the  thousands  of  cattle  crowding  the  verdant 


288 


SPLENDID  LANDSCAPE AN  UGLY  FALL. 


slopes,  the  purling  stream,  which  made  a music  strange  to 
these  regions — 

“ A noise  like  of  a hidden  brook 
In  the  leafy  month  of  June, 

That  to  the  sleeping  woods  all  night 
Singe th  a quiet  tune” — 

the  mimosa  (now  in  full  blossom),  the  numerous  fires  on  an 
evening,  around  which  bustling  and  merry  groups  of  savages 
were  busily  preparing  their  plain  “ veld-kost”  of  wild  roots 
and  bulbs — these,  and  many  other  signs  of  abundance,  cheer- 
fulness, and  content,  infused  a sensation  of  tranquil  happiness 
which  I had  not  experienced  since  my  arrival  in  this  sun- 
burnt and  unhappy  land. 

The  result  of  my  own  and  Mr.  Hahn’s  inquiries  was  a 
conviction  that  Jonker,  with  his  murderous  horde,  had  de- 
stroyed in  his  recent  foray  upward  of  forty  werfts  or  villages, 
and  that  the  aggregate  number  of  cattle  carried  off  could  not 
have  been  much  short  of  ten  or  eleven  thousand.  One  pow- 
erful tribe  of  Damaras  had  been  completely  broken  up.  With 
regard  to  the  number  of  people  killed,  we  were  unable  to  as- 
certain any  thing  with  certainty,  but  we  had  reason  to  think 
that  on  this  occasion  it  was  not  considerable. 

Having  collected  all  the  facts  which  I thought  necessary 
to  convict  Jonker  of  his  guilt,  I retraced  my  steps  to  Eik- 
hams. 

Almost  immediately  after  leaving  Barmen  I had  a very 
ugly  fall  from  my  ox.  He  was  plunging  and  kicking  most 
viciously,  but  I succeeded  for  a time  in  keeping  my  seat. 
Unfortunately,  however,  all  at  once  both  girths  gave  way, 
and,  after  performing  a summersault  in  the  air,  I came  with 
a violent  thump  to  the  ground.  I alighted  in  a sitting  posi- 
tion, but,  as  ill  luck  would  have  it,  my  left  leg  came  in  con- 
tact with  the  stump  of  a tree,  which  inflicted  a wound  fully 
two  inches  in  depth,  and  nearly  the  same  in  length.  In  this 
state  I was  obliged  to  ride  upward  of  one  hundred  miles,  and 


INTERVIEW  WITH  JONKER— HIS  DEFENSE.  289 

the  consequence  was,  that  by  the  time  I reached  Kehoboth, 
what  with  the  heat  of  the  sun  and  the  jolting  of  the  ox,  my 
limb  was  alarmingly  inflamed.  A week’s  rest,  however,  re- 
stored me,  in  a degree,  to  health. 

On  arriving  near  Eikhams,  I observed  almost  every  hill 
and  dale  covered  with  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  the  spoils 
of  the  last  excursion.  On  my  arrival,  I requested  an  imme- 
diate interview  with  the  chief.  In  a day  or  two,  accompa- 
nied by  twenty  of  his  principal  men,  he  made  his  appearance. 
The  meeting  took  place  in  the  old  church,  where  I had  estab- 
lished myself,  which  gave  a certain  solemnity  to  the  occasion. 
Eyebrecht  and  Onesimus  acted  as  interpreters. 

Every  one-  being  duly  seated  and  silence  obtained,  I thus 
addressed  the  chieftain : 

“ Captain  Jonker ! when  I last  saw  you,  I shook  hands 
with  you : it  grieves  me  that  I can  not  do  so  to-day ; the 
cause  you  must  be  aware  of.”  I then  proceeded  boldly  to 
accuse  him  of  his  late  depredations  in  Damara-land,  to  which 
both  he  and  the  rest  of  the  audience  listened  in  the  most 
profound  silence. 

Having  finished  my  harangue,  the  cunning  chief  requested 
to  be  allowed  to  speak  a few  words  in  his  defense,  which,  of 
course,  was  granted.  He  then  entered  into  a very  long  and 
cleverly  concocted  story  of  the  great  losses  he  had  sustained 
at  the  hands  of  the  Damaras,  and  that  what  he  had  now  done 
was  solely  in  self-defense,  or  as  indemnification  for  robberies 
committed  on  himself.  Whatever  truth  there  might  have 
been  in  his  assertion  as  to  preceding  outrages,  his  story  on 
the  present  occasion  was  one  chain  of  falsehood,  and  this  I 
clearly  proved  to  him.  At  last,  finding  no  further  excuse, 
and  perceiving  that  I knew  all  about  his  proceedings,  he  con- 
fessed that,  in  passing  through  the  country,  his  men  had  cer- 
tainly “ taken  a few  head  of  cattle,  but,”  added  he,  “ we  left 
plenty  after  us.”  The  manner  in  which  he  thus  attempted 
to  get  out  of  the  scrape  was  so  ridiculous  that  I could  not 

N 


290  HOW  TO  MANAGE  THE  NATIVES THE  ONDARA. 


help  smiling.  After  a little  more  parley,  the  conference 
broke  up. 

The  Namaquas,  however  much  they  may  be  averse  to  hear 
the  truth,  respect  the  man  who  speaks  his  mind  boldly.  For 
this  very  reason,  I was  never  denied  a favor  or  request,  if  in 
their  power  to  grant  it.  The  case  was  similar  with  Mr.  Hahn, 
who  acted  on  the  same  principle  as  myself. 

In  my  dealings  with  the  natives,  and  more  especially  with 
the  Namaquas,  I made  it  a rule  to  treat  them  civilly,  and 
even  deferentially,  but  I never  mixed  very  freely  with  them. 
The  moment  a person  becomes  too  familiar,  they  lose  all  re- 
spect for  him.  The  only  check  he  has  on  their  avarice,  and 
safeguard  against  their  treachery,  is  to  exert,  as  far  as  possi- 
ble, a certain  moral  influence  over  their  minds.  This  he  ef- 
fects to  a certain  extent  by  showing  himself  superior  to  their 
faults  and  vices.  It  might  be  convenient  enough  to  imitate 
them  in  some  respects,  but,  on  the  whole,  it  will  prove  inju- 
rious and  detrimental  to  the  traveler’s  interest. 

After  a short  stay  at  Eikhams,  I bade  adieu  to  Jonker, 
and  set  off  on  my  return  to  Rehoboth. 

One  morning,  when  crossing  a periodical  stream,  I ob- 
served in  its  sandy  bed  the  tracks  of  an  immense  serpent, 
in  size,  as  it  would  seem,  not  much  inferior  to  the  boa  con- 
strictor. I had  previously  heard  that  such  monsters  inhab- 
ited this  part  of  Africa,*  but  the  natives  declared  they  were 

* Large  species  of  serpents  of  the  python  family  are  known  to  in- 
habit many  parts  of  the  African  continent.  Dr.  Smith,  in  his  “ Zool- 
ogy of  South  Africa,”  when  speaking  of  a certain  species  ( python  Na- 
talensis)  found  sparingly  in  the  neighborhood  of  Natal,  thus  says  : 

“It  occasionally  attains  a very  large  size,  and,  according  to  the  na- 
tives, individuals  have  been  seen  whose  circumference  was  equal  to 
that  of  the  body  of  a stout  man : we  have  ourselves  seen  a skin 
which  measured  twenty-five  feet,  though  a portion  of  the  tail  was  de- 
ficient. It  feeds  upon  quadrupeds,  and  for  some  days  after  swallow- 
ing food  it  remains  in  a torpid  state,  and  may  then  be  easily  destroy- 
ed. The  South  Africans,  however,  seldom  avail  themselves  of  these 
opportunities  of  ridding  themselves  of  a reptile  they  view  with  horror, 


A SNAKE  STORY. 


291 


poisonous  (not  characteristic  of  this  family  of  reptiles),  and, 
consequently,  feared  them  greatly.  The  Damaras  call  the 
serpent  in  question  the  Ondara,  and  said  that  its  chief  food 
was  the  rock-rabbit  ( hyrax  capensis).  Mr.  Hahn  had  an  op- 
portunity of  seeing  one  of  these  huge  creatures,  which  had 
been  accidentally  killed  by  the  people  at  Kehoboth.  It  meas- 
ured eighteen  feet  in  length.* 

I was  told  a very  striking  story  of  the  Ondara,  but  I am 
not  at  all  prepared  to  vouch  for  its  truth. 

Two  Hill-Damaras  had,  it  seems,  gone  in  search  of  honey, 
and  having  found  a bees’  nest  in  the  cleft  of  a rock,  one  of  them 
made  his  way  through  the  confined  aperture  that  led  to  it 
for  the  purpose  of  possessing  himself  of  the  honey-comb.  But 
he  had  not  long  been  thus  engaged  when  he  discovered  a nar- 
row circular  passage  leading  apparently  right  through  the 
nest.  He  told  this  to  his  comrade  on  the  outside  who  sug- 
gested that  it  was  probably  caused  by  a serpent.  However, 
seeing  nothing  to  indicate  the  reptile’s  presence,  he  resumed 
his  labor,  and,  having  secured  the  honey-comb,  was  about  to 
withdraw  from  the  aperture,  when,  to  his  horror,  he  saw  a 
huge  ondara  making  toward  him.  The  reptile  passed  the 
poor  fellow  in  the  first  instance,  but,  suddenly  turning  round, 
it  plunged  its  murderous  fangs  into  the  man’s  body.  The 
poison  was  of  so  virulent  a nature  as  to  cause  almost  instan- 
taneous death.  The  survivor,  witnessing  the  fate  of  his 

as  they  believe  that  it  has  a certain  influence  over  their  destinies  ; and 
affirm  that  no  person  has  ever  been  known  to  maltreat  it  without 
sooner  or  later  paying  for  his  audacity.” 

* Mr.  Freeman,  in  “ A Tour  in  South  Africa,”  mentions  having 
heard  of  one  of  this  kind  of  reptiles  being  destroyed  that  actually  ex- 
ceeded this  size  nearly  three  times.  u This  enormous  serpent,”  says 
the  reverend  gentleman,  “ was  hanging  from  the  bough  of  a large 
tree,  and  was  killed  only  after  a desperate  struggle.  It  measured  fifty 
feet  in  length.  This  was  ascertained  by  a number  of  men  lying  down 
at  full  length  by  its  side.  It  took  nine  men  to  reach  from  the  head  to 
the  tail,  and  was  of  prodigious  girth  round  the  body.” 


292 


A SNAKE  WITH  LEGS THE  COCKATRICE. 


friend,  fled  precipitately.  On  his  way  home,  however,  and 
when  his  agitation  had  subsided,  he  determined  to  revenge 
himself  on  the  reptile,  and  early  the  following  day  he  return- 
ed to  put  his  plan  into  execution. 

Having  seen  the  serpent  leave  the  aperture  in  question,  he 
slipped  unperceived  into  it,  and  quietly  awaited  the  reptile’s 
return.  As  soon  as  he  observed  it  approaching,  he  coolly 
placed  his  open  hand  across  the  narrowest  part  of  the  pas- 
sage, and,  just  as  the  monster’s  eyes  glared  within,  he  grasp- 
ed it  by  the  throat,  and,  by  striking  its  head  to  and  fro 
against  the  rocks  on  either  side,  soon  succeeded  in  destroy- 
ing it. 

Many  Namaquas  believe  that  the  ondara  possesses  certain 
medicinal  virtues ; therefore,  when  they  succeed  in  killing 
the  reptile,  its  flesh  is  carefully  preserved.  If  a person  falls 
sick,  a portion  is  either  applied  externally  in  the  form  of  an 
unction,  or  given  to  the  patient  in  a decoction. 

The  natives  mention  a very  singular  little  snake,  about 
seven  or  eight  inches  long,  possessing  four  distinct  legs,  each 
provided  with  toes  and  nails  like  a lizard.  It  is  difficult  to 
conceive  for  what  purpose  these  limbs  (which  are  placed 
somewhat  apart,  and  rather  to  the  side,  as  in  the  seal)  have 
been  destined  by  nature,  since  they  are  apparently  never 
used.  The  motion  of  this  curious  creature,  which  is  of  a 
dark  slate  color,  is  said  to  be  that  of  a perfect  snake.  Three 
specimens  were  brought  at  different  times  to  Mr.  Hahn  when 
at  Barmen. 

The  story  of  the  cockatrice,  so  common  in  many  parts  of 
the  world,  is  also  found  among  the  Damaras ; but  instead  of 
crowing,  or,  rather,  chuckling  like  a fowl  when  going  to  roost, 
they  say  it  bleats  like  a lamb.  It  attacks  man  as  well  as 
beast,  and  its  bite  is  considered  fatal.  They  point  to  the  dis- 
tant north  as  its  proper  home.  In  Timbo’s  country  it  is 
termed  “hangara,”  and  is  said  to  attain  to  twelve  feet,  or 
even  more,  in  length,  with  a beautifully  variegated  skin.  On 


REPTILES  NUMEROUS THE  COBRA  DI  CAPELLA.  293 

its  head,  like  the  Guinea-fowl,  it  has  a horny  protuberance  of 
a reddish  color.  It  dwells  chiefly  in  trees.  Its  chuckle  is 
heard  at  nightfall ; and  people,  imagining  that  the  noise  pro- 
ceeds from  one  of  their  own  domestic  fowls  that  has  strayed, 
hasten  to  drive  it  home.  But  this  frequently  causes  their 
destruction ; for,  as  soon  as  the  cockatrice  perceives  its  vic- 
tim within  reach,  it  darts  at  it  with  the  speed  of  lightning  ; 
and  if  its  fangs  enter  the  flesh,  death  invariably  ensues.  Tim- 
bo  informed  me  that  he  once  saw  a dog  belonging  to  his  fa- 
ther thus  killed.  Moreover,  the  cockatrice,  like  the  wild  dog, 
wantonly  destroys  more  at  a time  than  it  can  consume. 

Notwithstanding  the  dryness  of  the  soil  and  the  atmos- 
phere between  the  Orange  Biver  and  the  seventeenth  or 
eighteenth  degrees  of  south  latitude,  reptiles  are  rather  numer- 
ous. Indeed,  some  parts  of  Damara-land  are  so  infested  by 
them  as  to  be  almost  uninhabitable.  For  my  own  part,  how- 
ever, I have  encountered  comparatively  few.  I never  saw 
the  cobra  di  capella,  though  it  does  exist  in  these  regions. 
It  is  common  enough  in  the  colony,  and  is  even  met  with  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Table  Mountain. 

An  acquaintance  of  mine  had  a remarkable  escape  from 
this  reptile.  Being  passionately  fond  of  botany,  he  was  one 
day  studying  the  flora  of  the  so-called  “ Cape  Flats.”  Having 
discovered  a rare  plant,  he  was  stooping  down  to  gather  it, 
when  up  started  a cobra  immediately  beneath  his  hand.  My 
friend  had  no  time  to  turn  round,  but  retreated  backward  as 
quickly  as  his  legs  would  carry  him.  The  serpent,  however, 
was  fast  gaining  ground,  and,  had  the  chase  lasted  a few  sec- 
onds longer,  must  inevitably  have  caught  him ; but  just  at 
this  critical  moment  my  friend  stumbled  over  an  ant-hill  and 
fell  to  the  ground  on  his  back,  and  while  in  this  position  he 
saw,  to  his  inexpressible  relief,  the  enraged  cobra  dash  furi- 
ously past  him. 

Pringle  says  that  this  snake  has  been  known  to  dart  at  a 
man  on  horseback,  and  “ with  such  force  as  to  overshoot  its 


294 


DIFFERENT  SPECIES  OF  SNAKES. 


aim.”  The  average  length  of  a full-grown  specimen  I be- 
lieve to  be  about  five  feet. 

The  puff-adder  ( vipera  inflata)  was  not  uncommon  in  Na- 
maqua-land  and  Damara-land.  My  saddle-ox  had  an  ex- 
ceedingly narrow  escape  from  being  bitten  by  one.  The  rep- 
tile was  lying  at  length  across  the  path,  and  I did  not  dis- 
cover it  until  the  ox  almost  trod  on  it.  Any  serpent  less 
slow  in  its  movements  must  have  fixed  its  fangs  in  the  ani- 
mal. Another  time  a woman,  the  wife  of  a native  servant 
of  mine,  found  one  of  these  horrid  creatures  comfortably 
sleeping  in  the  folds  of  her  skin  apron. 

Notwithstanding  its  venomous  character,  the  puff-adder, 
from  its  inert,  heavy,  and  sluggish  habits,  is  comparatively 
harmless.  The  only  real  danger  arises  from  treading  on  it. 
This,  however,  is  not  always  easy  to  avoid,  since  its  color 
so  much  resembles  the  ground. 

When  about  to  seize  its  prey  or  attack  the  enemy,  the 
puff-adder  is  said  to  be  unable  to  dart  forward,  but,  on  the 
other  hand,  to  possess  the  faculty  of  throwing  itself  backward 
with  unerring  certainty. 

Different  species  of  what  the  Dutch  term  “ schaap-steker,” 
or  sheep-stinger;*  “ boom-slang,”  or  tree-snake;  “ringel- 
hals,”  or  ring-throat ; “ the  spuig-slang,”  or  spitting-snake  ;f 
the  “ zwart-slang,”  or  black-snake, J &c.,  are  also  occasional- 
ly met  with,  but  none  of  these  are  very  poisonous.  The 
spuig-slang,  however,  is  much  dreaded  by  the  colonist,  less 
for  its  bite — which,  though  venomous,  is  not  fatal — but  from 
its  peculiar  habit  of  projecting  a jet  of  poison  to  a distance 
of  several  feet  toward  the  eyes  of  any  person  who  may  hap- 
pen to  approach  its  haunts,  the  result  of  which  is  usually  loss 
of  sight. 

The  common  people  at  the  Cape  have  some  very  singular 
notions  and  superstitions  about  the  different  reptiles  indigen- 
ous to  the  Cape  Colony,  but  more  especially  with  regard  to 

* Trimerorhinus  rhombeatus.  f Naia  haje.  J Columber  canus. 


CREDULITY FEW  DEATHS  FROM  SNAKE-BITES.  295 

the  zwart-slang.  Our  wagon-driver  told  us  that  this  snake 
is  very  fond  of  women’s  milk,  and  solemnly  declared  that  he 
had  known  several  instances  where  it  has  entered  people’s 
dwellings  at  night,  and  if  it  met  with  a sleeping  mother,  has 
dexterously  abstracted  her  milk.  I remember  a somewhat 
similar  story  having  been  told  me  by  the  peasantry  of  some 
parts  of  Sweden,  who  state  that  to  kill  a snake  was  not 
alone  a duty,  but  an  expiatory  sacrifice,  since  “ seven  sins” 
would  be  forgiven  an  individual  for  each  serpent  slain  by  him. 
Accordingly,  in  the  credulity  of  my  childish  days,  I was  a 
perfect  Thalaba ! 

Incorrect  ideas  of  the  power  of  the  reptile  family,  coupled 
with  superstitious  dread,  have  no  doubt  served  considerably 
to  exaggerate  the  fear  of  snakes.  Many,  we  know,  are  of 
the  most  venomous  character ; but,  as  we  become  better  ac- 
quainted with  the  different  species,  we  shall  find  that  by  far 
the  greater  portion  are  harmless,  or  nearly  so.  The  remark- 
ably few  cases  of  death  occurring  from  their  bites  are  a cor- 
roboration of  this.  Moreover,  like  the  rest  of  lower  animals, 
the  most  deadly  reptile  will  generally  fly  at  the  sight  of  man. 
It  only  exerts  its  formidable  powers  of  destruction  when 
about  to  be  trampled  upon  or  assailed.  Were  it  otherwise, 
many  of  the  more  humid  parts  of  our  globe,  where  snakes 
literally  swarm,  would  be  uninhabitable.  Before  setting  foot 
on  African  soil,  my  head  was  full  of  the  dangers  to  which  I 
should  be  exposed  from  them,  either  when  “ treading  the 
maze  of  the  jungle,”  or  when  traversing  the  endless  sand- 
plains.  Habit  and 'experience  have  since  taught  me  to  re- 
gard snakes  with  something  akin  to  indifference. 

Some  of  the  antidotes  in  Southern  Africa  for  the  bites  of 
snakes  and  the  stings  of  poisonous  insects  are  simple,  singu- 
lar, and  striking. 

The  first  point  to  be  attended  to  is  (if  it  be  practicable) 
to  tie  a string  or  ligature  tight  above  the  wounded  part,  so 
as  to  prevent  the  venom  spreading. 


296 


ANTIDOTES  FOR  SNAKE-BITES. 


Cutting  away,  or  applying  caustic  to  the  wounded  part, 
if  promptly  and  unhesitatingly  done,  is  also  likely  to  prevent 
fatal  consequences. 

Europeans  have  usually  recourse  to  eau  de  luce , five  drops 
of  which  is  administered  to  the  patient  in  a glass  of  water 
every  ten  minutes  until  the  poison  is  counteracted.  Eau  de 
luce  is  also  applied  externally.  Another  very  good  plan  is 
to  scarify  with  a knife  the  wound,  and  then  boldly  to  suck 
it.  Care,  however,  must  be  taken  that  one  has  no  sore  about 
the  lips  or  mouth.  Sweet  milk,  oil,  or  spirits  of  hartshorn 
must  then  be  applied  to  the  wound.  The  patient  should  also 
be  made  to  drink  freely  of  sweet  milk. 

In  the  Cape  Colony,  the  Dutch  farmers  resort  to  a cruel 
but  apparently  effective  plan  to  counteract  the  bad  effects  of 
a serpent’s  bite.  An  incision  having  been  made  in  the  breast 
of  a living  fowl,  the  bitten  part  is  applied  to  the  wound.  If 
the  poison  be  very  deadly,  the  bird  soon  evinces  symptoms  of 
distress,  u becomes  drowsy,  droops  its  head,  and  dies.”  It  is 
replaced  by  a second,  a third,  and  more  if  requisite.  When, 
however,  the  bird  no  longer  exhibits  any  of  the  signs  just 
mentioned,  the  patient  is  considered  out  of  danger.  A frog 
similarly  applied  is  supposed  to  be  equally  efficacious. 

A certain  white  bean  found  in  some  parts  of  the  colony 
(designated,  somewhat  singularly,  the  gentleman  bean)  has 
also  been  known  to  cure  the  bites  of  serpents  and  other  pois- 
onous creatures.  Thus  a Damara  woman  who  had  been 
stung  by  a scorpion  was  once  brought  to  Mr.  Hahn  with  her 
whole  body  very  much  swollen  and  inflamed.  She  was  al- 
ready in  such  a state  as  to  be  unable  to  walk.  He  instantly 
divided  one  of  the  beans  in  question,  and  applied  it  to  the 
wound,  to  which  it  adhered  with  such  tenacity  as  only  to  be 
removed  by  force.  When  the  virus  was  extracted,  the  bean 
dropped  off  of  its  own  accord,  and  the  woman,  after  a time, 
thoroughly  recovered. 

“ As  an  antidote  against  the  bite  of  serpents,”  says  Thun- 


THE  SNAKE-STONE. 


297 


berg,  in  his  Travels  in  South  Africa,  “the  blood  of  the  tur- 
tle was  much  cried  up,  which,  on  account  of  this  extraor- 
dinary virtue,  the  inhabitants  dry  in  the  form  of  small  scales 
or  membranes,  and  carry  about  them  when  they  travel  in 
this  country,  which  swarms  with  this  most  noxious  vermin. 
Whenever  any  one  is  wounded  by  a serpent,  he  takes  a couple 
of  pinches  of  the  dried  blood  internally,  and  applies  a little 
of  it  to  the  wound.”* 

And  Kolben,  when  speaking  of  the  cobras  (called  by  the 
first  colonists  the  hair-serpent),  says  : 

“ Some  affirm  that  there  is  in  the  head  of  the  hair-serpent 
a stone,  which  is  a never  failing  antidote  both  against  the 
poison  of  this  and  every  other  sort  of  serpent.  I killed  a 
great  many  hair-serpents  at  the  Cape,  and  searched  very 
narrowly  the  heads  of  all  I killed  in  order  to  find  this  stone, 
but  I could  never  discover  any  such  thing.  Perhaps  it  is 
only  to  be  found  at  one  season  of  the  year,  as  are  the  stones 
in  the  heads  of  crawfish. 

“ There  are  in  the  hands  of  the  Cape  Europeans,”  Kolben 
goes  on  to  say,  “ a great  many  stones  called  serpent-stones, 
but  they  are  artificial  ones.  They  are  brought  from  the  East 
Indies,  where  they  are  prepared  by  the  Brachmans,  who  are 
alone,  it  seems,  possessed  of  the  secret  of  the  composition, 
and  will  not  let  it  go  out  of  their  own  body  at  any  price.  I 
am  heartily  sorry  the  secret  is  not  in  the  Christian  world, 
and  that  the  Brachmans  are  inflexible  in  this  particular,  be- 
cause those  stones  are  of  admirable  virtues.  I saw  one  of 
them  tried  upon  a child  at  the  Cape,  who  had  receiv’d  a pois- 
onous bite  in  one  of  the  arms,  but  it  could  not  be  discover’d 
from  what  creature.  When  the  stone  was  brought,  the  arm 
was  prodigiously  swell’ d and  inflam’d.  The  stone,  being  ap- 
plied to  the  wound,  stuck  to  it  very  closely,  without  any 
manner  of  bandage  or  support,  drinking  in  the  poison  till  it 

* Turtle  blood  is  also  asserted  to  be  a good  remedy  against  wounds 
caused  by  poisoned  arrows. 

N 2 


298 


THE  SNAKE-STONE. 


could  receive  no  more,  and  then  it  dropt  off.  The  stone 
was  then  laid  in  milk,  that  it  might  purge  itself  of  the  pois- 
on ; and  it  did  so  presently,  the  poison  turning  the  milk  yel- 
low. The  stone,  as  soon  as  it  was  purg’d,  was  again  applied 
to  the  wound ; and  when  it  had  drank  in  its  dose,  it  was 
again  laid  in  milk.  And  this  was  reiterated  till  such  time 
as  the  stone  had  exhausted  all  the  poison,  after  which  the 
arm  was  quickly  heal’d.” 

Mr.  Thunberg  also  tells  us  that  the  farmers  in  the  Cape 
Colony  cure  the  bites  of  serpents  and  of  other  venomous 
reptiles  by  means  of  the  “ slange-steen,”  or  snake-stone. 
“ It  is  imported,”  he  says,  “from  the  Indies,  especially  from 
Malabar,  and  costs  several  rix  dollars.  It  is  convex  on  one 
side,  of  a black  color,  with  a pale  ash-gray  speck  in  the  mid- 
dle, and  tubulated  with  very  minute  pores.  When  thrown 
into  water  it  causes  bubbles  to  rise,  which  is  a proof  of  its 
being  genuine,  as  it  is,  also,  that  if  put  into  the  mouth  it 
adheres  to  the  palate.  When  it  is  applied  to  any  part  that 
has  been  bitten  by  a serpent,  it  sticks  fast  to  the  wound  and 
extracts  the  poison ; as  soon  as  it  is  saturated,  it  falls  off  of 
itself.  If  it  be  then  put  into  milk,  it  is  supposed  to  be  puri- 
fied from  the  poison  it  had  absorbed,  and  the  milk  is  said  to 
be  turned  blue  by  it.  Frequently,  however,  the  wound  is 
scarified  with  a razor  previously  to  the  application  of  the 
stone.” 

“ This  antidote,”  says  Barrow,  when  speaking  of  the  snake- 
stone,  “ appears  to  be,  in  fact,  nothing  more  than  a piece  of 
firm  bone  of  some  animal  made  into  an  oval  shape,  and 
burnt  round  the  edges  so  as  to  leave  a whitish  spot  in  the 
middle.  The  country-people,  who  purchase  this  remedy  un- 
der the  idea  of  its  being  a stone  taken  out  of  the  head  of  a 
certain  species  of  serpent,  were  very  much  astonished  on 
being  told  that  it  was  only  a piece  of  bone,  and  the  more  so 
on  finding  that  this  substance  stood  their  test  of  the  goodness 
of  the  slange-steen,  which  was  that  of  throwing  out  bubbles 


THE  AUTHOR’S  TENT  TAKES  FIRE. 


299 


on  the  surface  when  immersed  in  water.  To  the  porosity  of 
the  bone  may  be  ascribed  its  healing  qualities,  if  it  actually 
possesses  any;  for  which  reason,  any  other  substance  made 
up  of  capillary  tubes,  as  common  sponge,  for  instance,  might 
perhaps  be  equally  efficacious.” 

To  resume : Our  journey  to  Rehoboth  was  unattended  with 
any  very  remarkable  incident,  and  we  reached  that  place 
in  safety  after  an  absence  of  twenty -three  days. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

The  Author’s  Tent  takes  Fire. — lie  loses  every  thing  but  his  Papers. 
- — He  is  laid  on  a bed  of  Sickness. — Want  of  Medicine,  &c. — Re- 
flections.— Whole  Villages  infected  with  Fever.  — Abundance  of 
Game. — Extraordinary  Shot  at  an  Ostrich. — A Lion  breakfasts  on 
his  Wife. — Wonderful  shooting  Star. — Remarkable  Mirage. — Game 
and  Lions  plentiful. —The  Ebony-tree.  — Arrival  at  Bethany,  a 
Missionary  Station. — The  Trouble  of  a large  Herd  of  Cattle. — A 
thirsty  Man’s  Cogitation. — Curious  Superstition. — The  Damara  Cat- 
tle described. — People  who  live  entirely  without  Water. — Cross  the 
Orange  River.— Sterile  Country. 

The  old  adage,  u Misfortunes  never  come  singly,”  was  ex- 
emplified in  my  case.  The  wound  in  my  leg  being  now 
nearly  healed,  we  were  preparing  to  leave  Rehoboth,  when 
one  evening  my  hut  accidentally  caught  fire,  and,  being  en- 
tirely constructed  of  dry  grass  and  sticks,  it  was  burnt  to 
the  ground  before  any  thing  of  moment  could  be  saved.  By 
rushing  through  the  flames,  however,  I fortunately  succeeded 
in  preserving  the  greater  part  of  my  papers  and  memoranda, 
which  to  me  were  invaluable.  I . also  rescued  my  saddle ; 
but,  in  so  doing,  my  clothes  took  fire,  and  I had  a very  nar- 
row escape  from  being  burnt  to  death.  A shirt,  a pair  of 
trowsers,  a cap,  and  a pair  of  under-done  shoes,  which  had 
not  been  long  enough  at  the  fire  to  be  thoroughly  roasted, 
were  all  that  was  left  me.  My  situation,  consequently,  was 
not  very  enviable.  Through  the  kindness  of  Messrs.  Klein- 


800  MISFORTUNES  NEVER  COME  SINGLY. 

schmidt  and  Vollmer,  however,  I was  once  more  able  to  ap- 
pear decently  appareled. 

But  I was  soon  destined  to  experience  a greater  calamity. 
A few  stages  south  of  Rehoboth,  which  we  left  on  the  22d 
of  April,  en  route  to  the  Cape,  and  while  camped  on  the 
banks  of  the  Hountop,  I was  attacked  by  intermittent  fever, 
which  quickly  carried  me  to  the  verge  of  the  grave.  My 
sufferings  and  privations  during  this  period  were  indeed  se- 
vere. Regularly  every  morning  at  eleven  o’clock  I was  seized 
with  a violent  shivering  fit,  which  lasted  three  hours.  Then 
came  the  fever,  of  almost  as  long  duration,  accompanied  by 
racking  headache  and  profuse  perspiration.  After  this  my 
head  was  tolerably  free  from  pain,  but  I was  so  completely 
exhausted  that  to  turn  in  my  bed  was  a laborious  effort. 
The  climate,  moreover,  at  this  season  was  very  trying;  for, 
while  the  days  were  moderately  warm  (the  thermometer  av- 
eraging 65°  at  noon),  the  nights  were  piercingly  cold  and 
frosty.  At  sunrise  the  ice  was  from  an  eighth  part  of  an 
inch  to  one  inch  thick.  I became  very  sensitive  to  these 
changes,  inasmuch  as  during  the  greater  part  of  the  illness  I 
was  compelled  to  sleep  in  the  open  air,  having  previously  dis- 
posed of  our  wagons  to  the  natives.  What  little  medicine  I 
once  possessed  was  consumed  in  the  recent  conflagration,  and 
the  missionaries — owing  to  the  fever  having  broken  out  most 
alarmingly  among  themselves  and  the  natives — were  unable 
to  spare  me  any.  To  add  to  my  misfortunes,  no  suitable  food 
was  procurable.  Milk  and  meat  were  my  only  diet.  The 
latter  I could  not  digest,  and  the  former  soon  became  insipid 
to  my  taste.  The  men,  it  is  true,  had  once  the  good  fortune 
to  surprise  an  ostrich  in  its  nest,  but  the  eggs  were  too  rich 
and  heavy  for  my  weak  stomach. 

Up  to  this  period  my  busy  and  roving  life  had  left  me  but 
little  time  for  serious  reflection.  Now,  however,  that  the 
cares  of  the  world  no  longer  occupied  my  thoughts,  I felt  the 
full  force  of  my  lonely  situation.  During  the  long  and  sleep- 


REFLECTIONS ALLEN  SICK GAME  ABUNDANT.  801 

# 

less  nights  I was  often  seized  with  an  indescribable  sensation 
of  sadness  and  melancholy.  Death  itself  I did  not  fear ; but 
to  perish  in  a foreign  land,  in  the  midst  of  strangers,  far  away 
from  all  I loved,  was  an  idea  to  which  I could  hardly  recon- 
cile myself.  What  hand  would  close  my  eyes?  what  mourn- 
er would  follow  my  coffin  ? or  what  friend  would  shed  a tear 
on  my  lonely  and  distant  grave  ? 

I was  alone!  Oh,  may  the  reader  never  experience  the 
full  meaning  of  that  melancholy  word ! 

After  upward  of  two  months  of  no  ordinary  sufferings,  my 
strong  constitution  prevailed,  and  I was  convalescent;  but 
several  weeks  elapsed  before  I recovered  my  usual  health  and 
vigor. 

John  Allen  was  also  seriously  ill  from  the  same  malady, 
which  had  the  character  of  an  epidemic,  for  in  a very  short 
time  it  spread  like  wildfire  throughout  the  length  and  breadth 
of  Great  Namaqua-land,  and  vast  numbers  of  people  suc- 
cumbed under  it.  The  disease,  indeed,  was  of  so  destructive 
a nature  that  it  swept  off  whole  villages.  In  one  kraal  in 
particular,  all  the  inhabitants  perished,  and  the  cattle  were 
left  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

Fever  (the  cause  of  which  is  unknown)  is  not  common  in 
these  parts,  and  makes  its  appearance  only  occasionally. 

We  had  pitched  our  tent,  as  already  said,  near  the  Houn- 
top  Fiver.  The  country  thereabout  was  a succession  of  vleys 
or  gulleys,  then  filled  with  excellent  clear  water,  teeming  with 
water-fowl.  Quails,  birds  of  the  grouse  tribe,  and  wood- 
pigeons,  were  also  numerous.  Of  the  larger  animals  we  had 
the  zebra,  the  springbok,  the  ostrich,  and  an  occasional  oryx 
and  hartebeest ; . but,  from  their  being  much  persecuted  by 
the  natives,  combined  with  nakedness  of  the  country,  they 
were  extremely  wary  and  difficult  of  approach. 

Game  of  many  kinds  being  thus  abundant,  it  may  well  be 
supposed  that,  as  soon  as  my  strength  permitted  me  to  carry 
a gun,  I at  once  took  the  field,  as  well  for  amusement  as  for 


802  GOOD  SPORT A LION  DEVOURING  A LIONESS. 

the  purpose  of  replenishing  our  larder,  which  was  but  very 
ill  supplied. 

One  day  I made  a capital  shot  at  an  ostrich,  which,  when 
running  at  full  speed,  I brought  down  at  the  long  distance 
of  two  hundred  and  thirty  paces.  On  a previous  occasion  I 
killed  one  of  these  splendid  birds  when  upward  of  three  hund- 
red paces  from  me. 

Another  day  I had  the  good  fortune  to  shoot  a rhinoceros. 
He  was  probably  a straggler,  for  these  animals  have  long 
since  disappeared  from  the  part  of  the  country  where  we 
were  then  encamped,  and,  indeed,  are  now  very  rarely  to  be 
met  with  south  of  the  Kuisip  River. 

Early  one  morning  one  of  our  herdsmen  came  running  up 
to  us  in  great  fright,  and  announced  that  a lion  was  devour- 
ing a lioness!  We  thought  at  first  that  the  man  must  be 
mistaken ; but  his  story  was  perfectly  true,  and  only  her 
skull,  the  larger  bones,  and  the  skin  were  left.  On  examin- 
ing the  ground  more  closely,  the  fresh  remains  of  a young 
springbok  were  also  discovered.  We  therefore  conjectured 
that  the  lion  and  lioness  being  very  hungry,  and  the  antelope 
not  proving  a sufficient  meal  for  both,  they  had  quarreled ; 
and  he,  after  killing  his  wife,  had  coolly  eaten  her  also.  A 
most  substantial  breakfast  it  must  have  been ! 

On  only  one  other  occasion  have  I known  lions  to  prey  on 
each  other.  This  was  when  on  my  way  to  Lake  Ngami. 
On  a certain  night  we  had  badly  wounded  a lion.  He  re- 
treated growlingly  into  the  bush,  and  immediately  afterward 
a whole  troop  of  lions  rushed  upon  their  disabled  brother 
and  tore  him  to  pieces. 

A singular  and  interesting  atmospheric  phenomenon  oc- 
curred at  Hountop.  Between  seven  and  eight  o’clock  in  the 
evening  of  the  24th  of  June,  when  reading  by  the  side  of  my 
bivouac  fire,  I was  suddenly  startled  by  the  whole  atmosphere 
becoming  brilliantly,  nay,  almost  painfully  illuminated.  On 
turning  to  the  quarter  of  the  heavens  whence  this  radiance 


SHOOTING  STAR— MIRAGE. 


303 


proceeded,  I discovered  a most  magnificent  shooting  star, 
passing  slowly  in  an  oblique  direction  through  space,  with  an 
immense  tail  attached  to  it,  and  emitting  sparks  of  dazzling 
light.  The  fire  by  which  I sat  was  exceedingly  bright,  and 
the  moon  clear  and  brilliant,  yet  they  were  both  totally 
eclipsed  by  this  immense  body  of  light.  Its  great  beauty  and 
brilliancy  might  perhaps  be  best  realized  by  saying  that  it 
was  like  a star  of  the  second  or  third  order  when  compared 
to  the  moon  at  full. 

After  a time,  the  pasturage  being  nearly  exhausted  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Hountop,  we  removed  our  camp  a few 
miles  southward  to  another  periodical  river  called  the  Aam- 
houp.  During  our  stay  here  we  observed  some  very  strik- 
ing and  singular  horizontal  refractions  of  the  air.  Once  I 
saw  an  ostrich  walking  on  the  horizon  line,  while  its  double 
— clear  and  well  defined — appeared  immediately  above  it. 
Both  the  ostrich  and  its  double,  moreover,  were  divided  into 
three  different  portions  by  as  many  different  strata  of  air. 

Again : regularly  every  morning,  for  nearly  a month , the 
projecting  ledge  of  a rock  was  converted  into  the  semblance 
of  a splendid  and  embattled  castle.  As  the  atmosphere  be- 
came uniformly  heated,  the  mirage  melted  away  into  a soft, 
watery  haze. 

In  usual  refractions  the  inverted  image  of  an  object  gen- 
erally appears  above  the  object  itself,  but  occasionally  the 
effect  is  reversed.  Captain  Scoresby,  the  well-known  Arctic 
navigator,  once  by  these  means  discovered  his  father’s  vessel 
the  day  before  it  actually  came  in  sight. 

It  has  long  puzzled  the  learned  to  account  for  the  mirage. 
I believe,  however,  it  is  now  pretty  well  known  to  arise  from 
the  unequal  density  and  temperature  of  the  lower  strata  of 
air. 

The  abundance  of  good  water  and  pasturage  had  enabled 
our  cattle  to  get  into  excellent  condition ; and  as  the  season 
was  now  far  advanced,  and  I was  sufficiently  well  to  travel, 


304 


BETHANY EBONY-TREE MR.  KNUDSEN. 


we  deemed  it  necessary  to  move  slowly  on  toward  the  Cape 
Colony.  Accordingly,  on  the  9th  of  July  we  left  our  camp 
on  the  Aamhoup,  a place  where  we  had  experienced  both 
misery  and  happiness. 

Our  course  lay  along  and  at  the  foot  of  a very  picturesque 
range  of  table  hills,  averaging  about  one  thousand  feet  in 
height.  To  the  westward  were  also  mountains  of  a similar 
nature,  but  less  regular.  They  were  of  the  trap  formation, 
and  consisted  chiefly  of  limestone. 

Water  continued  for  a time  to  be  tolerably  abundant,  but 
pasturage  began  soon  to  fail  us.  T wo  causes  were  to  be  as- 
signed for  this,  namely,  the  devastation  of  the  locusts,  and 
the  inferior  quality  of  the  soil,  which  became  stony,  inter- 
spersed here  and  there  with  ridges  of  sand. 

Among  the  latter  we  encountered  herds  of  gemsboks,  and 
troops  of  lions  following  on  their  scent.  The  mere  sight  of 
the  tracks  of  the  latter  frightened  a friend  with  whom  I was 
traveling  almost  out  of  his  wits.  We  were  riding  in  advance 
of  our  cattle  at  the  time,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I 
could  prevent  him  from  returning  with  precipitation. 

On  the  4th  of  August  we  arrived  in  the  neighborhood  of 
another  Rhenish  missionary  station,  called  Bethany.  Here 
we  met  with  the  ebony-tree,  of  which  I had  only  before  $een 
a few  stragglers  in  the  Swakop  River,  near  the  Usab  gorge. 
Hence  on  to  the  Orange  River  this  tree  became  more  or  less 
abundant,  but  it  was  stunted  and  gnarled.  Our  bivouac  fires 
usually  consisted  of  its  wood. 

While  Hans  and  the  men  were  busy  preparing  our  food 
and  camp  for  the  night,  I strolled  on  to  the  station,  which  I 
found  deserted  by  every  living  creature.  Only  a short  time 
previously  the  Rev.  Mr.  Knudsen  officiated  here,  but  had  been 
obliged  to  leave  on  account  of  some  disagreement  with  the 
native  tribe  and  its  chief,  David  Christian.  It  had  always 
been  considered  as  inferior  to  most  of  the  other  missionary 
stations  in  this  part  of  Africa ; but,  what  with  the  absence 


BETHANY  TWICE  ABANDONED  BY  THE  MISSIONARIES.  305 

of  the  inhabitants,  the  devastation  of  the  locust — which  had 
destroyed  every  particle  of  vegetation — and  the  black  and 
parched  appearance  of  the  soil,  it  now  looked  wild  and  dreary 
in  the  extreme.  The  lengthened  shadows  of  evening  threw 
an  additional  gloom  over  this  once  busy  scene  of  cheerful 
industry.  Oh,  changes,  mysterious  and  incomprehensible! 
Surely  God,  in  his  infinite  wisdom,  will  not  permit  the  han- 
diwork of  his  servants,  raised  only  by  years  of  perseverance, 
toil,  and  privations,  to  perish  without  some  recompense ! 

Bethany,  if  I am  not  mistaken,  became  a scene  of  mission- 
ary labor  as  early  as  1820.  The  enterprising  and  venerable 
Mr.  Schmelen  then  officiated  here,  but  he  found  it  necessary, 
after  a time,  to  abandon  the  place.  Subsequently  to  his  de- 
parture it  remained  deserted  for  upward  of  twenty  years, 
when,  in  1843,  it  was  once  more  tenanted,  and  this  time  by 
Mr.  Knudsen,  who,  in  his  turn,  as  seen  above,  was  obliged  to 
move  off  elsewhere. 

After  leaving  Bethany,  water  and  pasturage  became  every 
day  more  scarce.  All  the  vleys  and  pools  of  rain-water  were 
dried  up.  The  Koanquip  Biver,  however,  long  befriended  us, 
as  in  its  bed  we  generally  managed  to  obtain  a supply  of 
grass  and  water  for  our  cattle,  which  now  amounted  to  sev- 
eral hundred  head. 

But  the  labor  and  fatigue  of  watering  the  latter  was  im- 
mense. No  person  who  has  not  been  circumstanced  as  we 
were  can  form  the  least  conception  of  the  trouble,  care,  and 
anxiety  that  a large  drove  of  cattle  occasions.  Perhaps, 
after  having  dug  for  twenty  consecutive  hours — and  this  I 
have  done  more  than  once — the  water  is  found  insufficient 
in  quantity,  or  (which  is  almost  as  bad)  the  ground  falls  in, 
or  the  cattle  themselves  spoil  it  by  their  wallowing  and  ex- 
crement. 

These  native  cattle  are  the  most  troublesome  and  disgust- 
ing brutes  possible ; for,  after  having  spoiled  the  water  by 
their  own  wildness  and  wantonness,  they  rush  furiously 


306  TROUBLE  ATTENDANT  ON  A HERD  OF  CATTLE. 

about,  bellowing  and  moaning.  It  is  enough  to  discourage 
the  stoutest  heart. 

When  arriving  at  a place  where  we  supposed  water  was 
to  be  found,  the  plan  usually  adopted,  in  order  to  guard 
against  the  cattle  destroying  our  work,  was  to  send  them 
away  to  pasture.  In  the  mean  time,  every  available  man 
went  speedily  to  work  with  such  implements  as  were  pro- 
curable : spades,  wooden  troughs,  pieces  of  wood  or  of  bark, 
were  indifferently  put  in  requisition  ; and  even  our  hands 
were  used  with  great  effect,  though  not  without  sustaining 
injury.  Having  worked  the  aperture  of  sufficient  depth  and 
width,  it  was  fenced  in  by  tliorn-bushes,  leaving  only  a single 
entrance.  The  oxen  were  then  sent  for,  and  allowed  to  ap- 
proach singly  or  in  greater  number,  according  to  the  extent 
of  the  water.  Sometimes,  however,  if  the  nature  of  the 
ground  did  not  permit  the  cattle  to  have  access  to  the  water, 
a hollow  was  scooped  in  the  earth  near  the  edge  of  the  pit, 
into  which  (or  into  a piece  of  sail-cloth,  if  at  hand)  the  water 
was  poured  by  means  of  small  wooden  pails,  usually  de- 
nominated “ bamboos.” 

Owing  to  this  tedious  process,  coupled  with  the  slowness 
with  which  water  filters  through  sand,  and  the  immense 
quantity  (usually  five  or  six  bucket sful)  that  a thirsty  ox 
will  drink,  and  the  quarrelsome  disposition  of  the  animals 
themselves,  watering  four  hundred  head  of  cattle  will  often 
occupy  a whole  day  or  night ; and,  since  a person  is  in  a 
great  degree  dependent  on  his  cattle,  whether  for  food,  draft, 
&c.,  he  himself  must  never  think  of  refreshment  or  rest  until 
their  wants  have  been  provided  for. 

The  scarcity  of  water,  and  the  uncertainty  of  finding  it 
in  these  parched  regions  is  so  great,  that  when,  after  a long 
day’s  journey,  the  anxiously-looked-for  pool  is  found  to  be  dry, 
it  is  almost  enough  to  drive  a man  mad,  especially  if  he  be 
a stranger  to  the  country,  and  unaccustomed  to  traversing 
the  African  wilds.  One’s  cogitations  at  such  times  are  apt 


SUPERSTITION CATTLE  DESCRIBED HORNS.  307 

to  be  something  to  the  following  effect.  “ If  I advance  and 
do  not  find  water  within  a certain  period,  it  will  be  inevi- 
table destruction.  To  retrace  my  steps  to  the  last  watering- 
place  is  not  to  be  thought  of,  as,  from  the  distance  and  the 
exhausted  state  of  the  cattle,  it  would  never  be  reached. 
What  remains  for  me  but  to  lie  down  and  die  V9 
-The  common  people  at  the  Cape  entertain  a notion  that 
cattle  refrain  from  feeding  only  once  within  the  year,  name- 
ly, on  Christmas  eve.  Then,  it  is  affirmed,  they  fall  on  their 
knees,  and  with  closed  mouths  and  half-shut  eyes  (a  sign  of 
placidity),  silently  thank  the  Giver  of  all  good  things  for  the 
grass  and  water  they  have  enjoyed  during  the  past  twelve 
months.  They  say,  moreover,  that  a person  may  witness 
this  act  of  devotion  by  keeping  well  to  leeward  and  out  of 
sight  of  the  animals.* 

Our  cattle  consisted  chiefly  of  the  Damara  breed,  which, 
so  far  as  I am  aware,  differs  widely  from  any  found  in  Eu- 
rope. They  are  big-boned,  but  not  particularly  weighty; 
their  legs  are  slender,  and  they  have  small,  hard,  and  dura- 
ble feet.  The  hair  on  the  body  is  short,  smooth,  and  glossy, 
and  the  extremity  of  the  tail  is  adorned  with  a tuft  of  long, 
bushy  hair,  nearly  touching  the  ground.  This  tuft  consti- 
tutes the  chief  ornament  of  the  Damara  assegai. 

But  the  horns  are  the  most  remarkable  feature  of  the  Da- 
mara cattle.  They  are  usually  placed  on  the  head  at  an  an- 
gle of  from  forty-five  to  ninety  degrees,  and  are  at  times 
beautifully  arched  and  twisted,  but  rarely  bent  inward.  They 
are  of  an  incredible  length,  and  one  often  meets  with  oxen 
the  tips  of  whose  horns  are  from  seven  to  eight  feet  apart. 

* This  superstition  is  common  in  Devonshire,  in  the  western  parts 
of  which  it  used,  till  lately,  to  be  affirmed,  “that  at  twelve  o’clock  at 
night  on  Christmas  eve,  the  oxen  in  their  stalls  are  always  found  on 
their  knees  in  an  attitude  of  devotion ; and  that,  since  the  alteration 
of  the  style,  they  continue  to  do  this  only  on  the  eve  of  old  Christmas 
day.”  Bravo,  oxen  ! — ( See  Brand's  “ Popular  Antiquities .”) 


308 


ENORMOUS  HORNS  OF  CATTLE. 


The  Bechuana  cattle  (of  greater  bulk  and  stouter  propor- 
tions) seem  to  surpass  the  Damara  cattle  in  this  respect. 
Among  many  other  curious  and  interesting  objects,  there  is 
now  in  the  collection  of  Colonel  Thomas  Steel,  of  Upper 
Brook  Street,  a perfect  cranium  of  a young  Bechuana  ox,* 


SKULL  OF  A BECHUANA  OX. 


of  which  the  wood-cut  is  a fair  representation.  The  follow- 
ing are  its  dimensions : 

Entire  length  of  horns  from  tip  to  tip  along  the  curve...  13  ft.  5 in. 


Distance  (straight)  between  the  tips  of  the  horns 8 8£ 

Circumference  of  horns  at  the  root 1 61- 

Breadth  of  cranium  between  the  eyes 0 9£- 

Length  “ “ “ 2 2 


But  I have  been  told  on  good  authority  that  in  some  parts 
of  Africa  horns  of  cattle  are  found  greatly  to  exceed  the  above 
dimensions.  The  horns,  indeed,  are  of  so  enormous  a size 
as  seriously  to  inconvenience  the  animal.  Their  length  and 
weight  have  been  known  to  be  so  great  as  to  twist  the  head 
to  one  side,  one  of  the  horns  dragging  on  the  ground,  while 
the  other  pointed  upward. 

The  Damaras  prize  their  oxen  in  proportion  to  the  size  of 

* This  remarkable  beast  was  a long  time  in  the  possession  of  Mr. 
Aswell,  who,  I believe,  intended  to  bring  it  alive  to  England,  but  un- 
avoidable circumstances  prevented  this  distinguished  traveler  from  car- 
rying his  plan  into  execution. 


ARTIFICIAL  CALF— CATTLE  VALUED  NEXT  TO  WOMEN.  309 

their  horns.  Some  African  tribes  take  much  pains  in  form- 
ing them  of  a certain  shape.  This  is  effected  either  by  saw- 
ing off  the  tips,  splitting  them,  bending  them  forcibly  when 
yet  tender,  and  so  forth. 

The  Damara  cow  is  of  slender  proportions  and  very  wild. 
Before  she  can  be  milked,  it  is  always  needful  to  lash  her 
head  to  a tree,  in  like  manner  as  the  Laplanders  treat  their 
reindeer,  or  to  tie  her  hind  legs  together.  The  best  cow 
rarely  gives  more  than  two  or  three  pints  of  milk  daily,  and, 
should  her  calf  die  or  be  taken  from  her,  she  absolutely  re- 
fuses to  give  any  at  all,  in  which  case  it  is  necessary  to  re- 
sort to  artificial  means.  One  plan  is  to  stuff  a calf-skin  with 
hay  or  grass,  and  afterward  to  place  it  on  the  ground  for  the 
cow  to  slobber  over.  Sometimes*  the  adoption  of  the  latter 
expedient  gives  rise  to  ludicrous  scenes ; for  the  cow,  when 
tenderly  caressing  her  supposed  offspring,  has  all  at  once  got 
scent  of  the  hay  or  grass,  when,  thrusting  her  snout  into  the 
skin,  she  has  greedily  devoured  its  contents ! 

The  Damaras,  as  well  as  other  nations,  take  great  delight 
in  having  whole  droves  of  cattle  of  the  same  color.  The 
Namaquas  have  a perfect  mania  for  a uniform  team.  Bright 
brown  is  the  favorite  color ; and  T myself  have  always  found 
beasts  of  this  hue  to  be  the  strongest  and  most  generally  ser- 
viceable. Dark  brown  oxen  with  a yellowish  streak  along 
the  back — -by  the  Dutch  designated  “geel-bak” — are  also 
usually  stout  and  enduring.  Yellow,  and  more  especially 
white,  oxen  are  considered  weak,  and  unable  to  bear  much 
fatigue  or  hardship. 

The  Damaras,  as  with  almost  every  other  people  of  South- 
ern Africa,  value  .their  cattle  next  to  their  women,  and  take 
a pride  in  possessing  animals  that  look  high  bred.  The  ox, 
in  fact,  forms  the  chief  theme  of  the  songs  of  the  Damaras. 
They,  moreover,  rarely  or  never  make  use  of  a handsome 
animal  as  a beast  of  burden,  but  employ  quiet,  ugly  bulls  for 
such  purposes.  These  have  a buffalo  look  about  them,  and 
their  horns,  moreover,  rarely  attain  to  any  size. 


310 


MEN  AND  CATTLE  LIVE  WITHOUT  WATER. 


From  their  quick  step,  good  feet,  and  enduring  powers,  the 
Damara  cattle  are  much  prized  by  the  farmers  of  the  Cape 
Colony.  The  only  drawback  is  their  wildness  and  immense 
size  of  their  horns,  which  they  sometimes  use  with  fatal  effect. 

The  day  before  we  reached  the  Orange  River  we  fell  in 
with  a kraal  of  Hottentots,  whom,  to  our  great  surprise,  we 
found  living  in  a locality  altogether  destitute  of  water ! The 
milk  of  their  cows  and  goats  supplied  its  place.  Their  cat- 
tle, moreover,  never  obtained  water,  but  found  a substitute 
in  a kind  of  ice-plant  ( mesembryanthemum ),  of  an  exceedingly 
succulent  nature,  which  abounds  in  these  regions.  But  our 
own  oxen,  not  accustomed  to  such  diet,  would  rarely  or  never 
touch  it.  Until  I had  actually  convinced  myself — as  I had 
often  the  opportunity  of  doing  at  an  after  period — that  men 
and  beasts  could  live  entirely  without  water,  I should,  per- 
haps, have  had  some  difficulty  in  realizing  this  singular  fact. 

On  the  21st  of  August  we  effected  the  passage  of  the 
Orange  River  in  safety  at  what  is  called  the  Zendlings  Drift, 
or  the  missionary  ford.  We  had  no  boat,  and  those  of  the 
men  who  could  not  swim  were  obliged  to  lay  hold  of  the  tails 
of  the  cattle,  to  which  they  pertinaciously  clung.  On  gain- 
ing the  opposite  bank,  which  was  very  steep,  the  oxen,  in 
climbing  it,  entirely  submerged  their  charge,  to  the  great  de- 
light and  amusement  of  such  of  their  companions  as  had 
landed  at  a more  convenient  point. 

The  Orange  River  was  at  this  season  almost  at  its  lowest, 
yet  it  was  a noble  and  highly  picturesque  stream.  Looking 
eastward,  its  aspect  was  particularly  imposing.  Its  breadth 
at  this  point  might  have  been  from  two  to  three  hundred 
yards.  The  banks  were  on  both  sides  lined  with  evergreen 
thorns,  drooping  willows,  ebony-trees,  &c. ; and  the  water 
forced  its  passage  through  a bold  and  striking  gorge,  over- 
hung by  precipices  from  two  to  three  thousand  feet  high. 
But  the  country  all  round  was  desolate.  The  hills,  which  at 
some  distant  period  had  evidently  been  subject  to  volcanic 


STERILE  COUNTRY GREAT  NAMAQUA-LAND.  311 

eruptions,  had  a sunburnt  and  crumbling  appearance,  and 
were  almost  wholly  destitute  of  vegetation.  The  soil  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  mountains  consisted  of  pure  sand,  and 
was  covered  with  low  and  succulent  shrubs,  from  which  our 
cattle,  hitherto  accustomed  to  revel  in  the  almost  boundless 
savannas  of  Damara-land,  turned  with  disgust.  The  coun- 
try for  several  weeks’  journey  in  advance  of  us  was  repre- 
sented as  of  a similar  nature. 

We  began  now  seriously  to  tremble  for  the  poor  beasts, 
which  had  already  lost  flesh.  Upward  of  two  months’  trav- 
eling had  to  be  performed  before  we  could  reach  our  desti- 
nation. 

With  the  exception  of  that  portion  of  Nam  aqua-land  and 
Damara-land  bordering  on  the  coast,  the  part  of  the  country 
I speak  of  has  the  most  inauspicious  appearance  I ever  saw. 
Its  sterility  arises  probably  from  being  situated  near  the  limit, 
not  only  of  the  “thunder-rains,”  but  of  the  regular  rains 
(“  mist-rains,”  as  they  are  called  in  the  colony),  and  the  con- 
sequent frequency  of  great  droughts.  Indeed,  scarcely  any 
rain  falls  here  in  some  years. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Great  Namaqua-land. — Its  Boundaries  and  Extent. — Its  Rivers. — Na- 
ture of  the  Country. — Vegetation  and  Climate. — Geological  Struc- 
ture.— Minerals. — “Topnaars”  and  “ Oerlams.” — Houses.  — My- 
thology and  Religion. — Tumuli. — Wonderful  Rock. — Curious  Le- 
gend of  the  Hare. — Coming  of  Age. — The  Witch-doctor. — Amu- 
lets. — Superstitions. — A Namaqua’s  notion  of  the  Sun. — Marriage. 
— Polygamy. — Children.  — Barbarous  Practice. — Longevity. — Sin- 
gular Customs. — Ornaments. — Tattooing. — Arms. — Idle  Habits. — 
Fond  of  Amusements. — Music  and  Dancing.  — Spirits. — Mead. — 
Domestic  Animals. 

Having  now  brought  my  narrative  to  a period  when  I am 
about  to  leave  Great  Namaqua-land,  it  may  be  well  to  say  a 


312 


GREAT  NAMAQUA-LAND. 


few  words  of  this  country,  its  inhabitants,  their  manners  and 
customs,  &c. 

The  portion  of  Africa  known  as  Namaqua-land  is  divided 
into  two  distinct  parts,  viz.,  Little  and  Great  Namaqua-land. 
By  the  former  is  understood  the  territory  (now  British)  be- 
tween the  Orange  River  and  about  the  31st  degree  of  lati- 
tude on  the  south ; by  the  latter,  the  country  between  the 
last-named  river  and  Damara-land,  its  eastern  boundary  be- 
ing the  Kalahari  desert,  while  on  the  west  it  is  washed  by 
the  billows  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

Great  Namaqua-land  covers  a surface  of  no  less  than  one 
hundred  and  twelve  thousand  geographical  square  miles,* 
with  probably  a population  of  scarcely  thirty  thousand  souls, 
or  less  than  four  persons  to  the  square  mile.  Excepting  the 
great  Sahara  itself,  there  is,  perhaps,  not  a country  in  the 
world,  of  equal  extent,  so  scantily  peopled,  so  destitute  of 
water,  so  dismal,  and  so  generally  barren  and  useless.  It  is 
truly  a “ region  of  curses.” 

The  coast-line  of  Great  Namaqua-land,  like  that  of  Dama- 
ra-land, consists  of  a dreary  sandy  waste,  extending  in  places 
from  thirty  to  forty  miles  into  the  interior— in  others  to  a 
hundred  or  more — and  is,  with  very  few  exceptions,  unin- 
habitable. 

Some  of  the  rivers,  such  as  the  Kuisip,  and  others  of  little 
importance,  empty  themselves  into  the  Atlantic;  but  the 
larger  portion  run  in  an  easterly  direction,  and  are  chiefly 
tributaries  to  the  Fish  River.  This  remarkable  water-course, 
which  takes  its  rise  in  the  most  northerly  limit  of  Great 
Namaqua-land,  finally  joins  the  Orange  River  about  three  or 
four  days’  journey  from  where  the  latter  finds  an  outlet  into 
the  sea,  thus  intersecting  the  country  throughout  its  entire 
length. 

Great  Namaqua-land  is  characterized  by  immense  sandy 

* Or  about  148,000  English  square  miles.  The  area  of  Damara-land 
is  about  29,000  English  square  miles. 


CLIMATE GEOLOGICAL  STRUCTURE. 


313 


plains,  traversed  by  bill  and  rock,  and  thickly  strewn  with 
quartz,  which  reflects  a dazzling  and  perplexing  light.  Two 
to  three  days’  journey  south  of  Rehoboth,  the  dense  thorny 
bush,  so  peculiar  to  Damara-land,  ceases,  and  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a few  mimosas  along  the  water-courses,  and  occa- 
sional ebony-trees,  the  arboreous  vegetation  is  scanty  and 
stunted.  For  more  than  six  months  of  the  year  it  is  scorched 
by  an  almost  vertical  sun.  The  rains,  which  are  always 
accompanied  by  heavy  thunder,  are  periodical  and  very  par- 
tial. In  its  northern  portion,  the  wet  season  sets  in  at  the 
same  time  as  in  Damara-land ; but  in  a southerly  direction, 
the  rains  are  later  and  more  uncertain  ; and,  as  has  been  said- 
in  the  last  chapter,  little  or  none  falls  about  the  lower  course 
of  the  Orange  River  and  the  neighborhood.  The  springs 
(which  are  often  either  hot  or  salt)  are  indifferent  and  scantily 
distributed.  The  periodical  water-courses,  therefore,  afford 
the  chief  supply. 

The  Namaquas,  as  well  as  the  Damaras,  are  loud  in  their 
complaints  that  less  rain  falls  now  than  half  a century  back. 
Indeed,  the  numerous  ancient  beds  of  rivers  in  the  vast  sandy 
plains,  and  the  deeply-scored  slopes  and  sides  of  the  now 
“ sunburnt”  and  crumbling  hills,  clearly  indicate  that  almost 
the  whole  country  north  of  the  Orange  River,  as  far  as  Euro- 
peans have  penetrated  from  the  Cape  side,  has  at  some 
former  period  been  much  more  abundantly  watered.  In 
some  parts,  the  destruction  of  forests,  which  are  well  known 
to  retain  and  condense  vapory  particles,  may  partly  account 
for  such  atmospheric  changes ; but  in  this  region  we  must 
look  for  other  causes. 

In  a geological  point  of  view,  Great  Namaqua-land  pre* 
sents  many  interesting  features.  Between  the  Orange  River 
and  Walfisch  Bay,  beginning  at  the  sea-side,  three  distinct 
terrace-like  risings  of  the  country  are  recognized.  Besides 
the  granite,  which  is  the  prevailing  rock,  great  masses  of 
quartz  are  met  with  either,  as  aforesaid,  scattered  over  its 

O 


314 


MINERALS TOPNAARS  AND  OERLAMS. 


surface,  or  filling  up  the  large  gaps  and  fissures  occasioned 
by  ancient  eruptions.  Iron  and  sandstone,  and  slate  forma- 
tions, are  also  not  uncommon. 

At  some  remote  period  this  land  must  have  been  subject- 
ed to  volcanic  agencies ; and  though  not  one  of  these  has 
taken  place  in  the  memory  of  the  present  generation,  rum- 
bling noises  underground  and  tremors  of  the  earth  are  of  fre- 
quent occurrence.  The  existence  of  hot  water  springs ; the 
confusion  of  the  fantastically  and  curiously-shaped  hills — 
“ the  strata  bending  and  dipping  from  the  perpendicular  to 
the  horizontal,  and  in  others  extending  in  a straight  line 
from  one  hill  to  another” — bear  ample  testimony  to  its  vol- 
canic nature.  The  presence,  moreover,  of  vast  quantities  of 
minerals  is  a further  evidence  of  its  igneous  character.  Tin, 
lead,  iron,  and  copper  ore  is  often  met  with.  I have  had 
specimens  of  the  latter  mineral  in  my  possession  containing 
from  forty  to  ninety  per  cent,  of  pure  metal.  At  eight  to  ten 
days’  journey  with  u ox  wagon,”  east  of  the  missionary 
station,  Bethany,  meteoric  iron  is  found  in  apparently  inex- 
haustible quantities.  I have  seen  lumps,  of  several  hundred 
weights,  brought  from  thence,  so  pure  and  malleable  that  the 
natives  converted  it  into  balls  for  their  guns,  &c.,  without  any 
previous  application  of  fire.  As  Great  Namaqua-land  be- 
comes better  known,  it  is  more  than  probable  that  it  will  be 
found  equally  prolific  in  minerals — if  not  more  so — as  Little 
Namaqua-land,  where,  of  late,  extensive  and  valuable  mines 
have  been  brought  to  light. 

The  term  Hottentot  and  Namaqua  have  probably  origin- 
ated with  Europeans,  since  neither  is  found  in  the  native 
language.  The  Hottentots  of  these  regions  may  be  divided 
into  two  great  branches,  viz.,  the  “ Topnaars”  and  the  “ Oer- 
lams.”  With  the  latter  is  generally  understood  the  new- 
comers and  the  semi-civilized ; but  the  real  signification  of 
the  term  is  doubtful.  Some  conjecture  the  “ Oerlam”  to  be 
a corruption  of  the  Dutch  word  “o’erland,”  or  overland — 


TRIBES HOUSES. 


315 


that  is,  people  who  have  come  over  land.  Be  this  as  it  may, 
the  Namaqua-Hottentots  consider  it  as  a compliment  to  be 
addressed  as  “ Oerlam.”  “ Topnaar,”  on  the  other  hand,  sig- 
nifies the  First,  the  Highest,  the  Great,  or  those  who  origin- 
ally inhabited  Great  Namaqua-land,  and  they  view  with  con- 
siderable jealousy  the  progress  and  superiority  of  the  “ Oer- 
lams,”  whom  they  justly  consider  as  intruders. 

The  northern  Namaquas  are  divided  into  numerous  tribes, 
each  under  petty  chiefs.  The  principal  of  these  are  Jonker 
Afrikaner,  Cornelius,  Amral,  Zwartbooi,  Jan  Boois,  Will- 
iam Fransman,  Paul  Goliath,  David  Christian,  and  Bondel 
Zwartz. 

The  Namaquas  dwell  in  small  round  huts,  made  on  the 
same  principle  as  those  of  the  Damaras,  and  covered  with 
mats  composed  of  rushes,  which  are  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  : A quantity  of  the  inner  bark  of  the  mimosa  is 
collected  and  dried.  When  wanted  for  immediate  use,  the 
required  portion  is  put  into  hot  water  and  softened.  Each 
member  of  the  family  then  fills  his  mouth  with  as  much  of 
the  fibre  as  it  can  hold,  and  chews  it  until  it  becomes  quite 
pliable,  when  it  is  at  once  converted  into  strings  by  the  rude 
process  of  twisting  it  on  the  naked  leg.  A large  quantity  is 
in  this  manner  manufactured  in  an  incredibly  short  time. 
The  rushes  are  then  cut  to  the  desired  length,  and  laid  out 
on  the  ground  singly,  and  in  a row,  when  holes  are  made,  at 
intervals  of  about  two  inches,  through  each  rush,  and  the 
string  in  question  passed  through  them  by  means  of  a bone 
or  thorn  needle.  The  ends  of  the  rushes,  however,  are  se- 
cured more  strongly  by  back-stitches.  These  mats  serve  a 
double  purpose.  . In  warm  weather  they  are  open  and  airy, 
while,  being  of  a porous  texture,  a shower  closes  them,  and 
after  a while  they  become  proof  against  the  most  deluging 
rains. 

When  they  remove  their  habitations,  these  mattings  and 
the  frame-work  of  the  hut,  which  consists  of  semicircular 


316 


MYTHOLOGY RELIGION. 


boughs,  are  packed  on  oxen.  Their  household  utensils,  such 
as  calabashes,  milk-pails,  pots,  &c.,  are  suspended  to  the 
boughs,  and  in  the  midst  of  all  this  confusion  is  often  seated 
the  good  dame  of  the  house,  surrounded  by  her  promising 
offspring. 

It  has  been  asserted  by  travelers  and  others  that  the 
Namaquas  have  not  the  slightest  idea  of  a Superior  Being, 
or  of  a life  hereafter.  Yet  they  believe  in  Heitjeebib,  or 
Heitjekobib,  whom  they  consider  to  have  the  power  to  grant 
or  withhold  them  success  and  prosperity.  But  whether  Heit- 
jeebib is  a deity,  a goblin,  or  merely  a deified  ancestor,  I 
shall  not  presume  to  say.  At  all  events,  they  affirm  he 
exists  in  the  graves  of  all  deceased  people ; and  whenever  a 
Hottentot  passes  a burial-place,  he  invariably  throws  a stone, 
a bush,  or  other  token  of  offering  and  affection  on  the  tomb, 
pronouncing  the  name  of  Heitjeebib,  and  invoking  his  bless- 
ing and  protection  in  his  undertakings.  From  being  thus 
constantly  added  to,  these  heaps  often  attain  a great  size. 
They  are  found  throughout  the  country  (I  have  observed 
them  even  in  Damara-land),  and  frequently  in  situations  per- 
fectly “stoneless,”  from  which  may  be  inferred  that  the  na- 
tives carry  the  materials  a long  distance.  Captain  Harris 
mentions  having  seen  similar  heaps  among  the  Matabili,  but 
was  unable  to  account  for  their  presence.  The  Hottentots 
have  an  indistinct  notion  that  they  came  from  an  easterly 
direction,  and  it  is  possible  that  the  stone  tumuli  found  by 
the  traveler  may  have  something  to  do  with  this  tradition. 

The  natives  in  these  parts  have  a strange  tale  of  a rock  in 
which  the  tracks  of  all  the  different  animals  indigenous  to 
the  country  are  distinctly  visible ; moreover,  that  man  and 
beast  lived  here  together  in  great  amity ; but  one  day,  from 
some  unknown  cause,  their  Deity  appeared  unexpectedly  and 
dispersed  them.  I never  had  the  good  fortune  to  obtain  a 
sight  of  this  marvelous  rock.  Mr.  Moffat,  who  makes  men- 
tion of  a similar  story  prevailing  among  the  Bechuanas,  was 


CURIOUS  LEGEND. 


317 


equally  unsuccessful.  “ Once  I heard  a man  of  influence,” 
says  the  reverend  gentleman,  u telling  his  story  on  the  sub- 
ject. I,  of  course,  could  not  say  that  I believed  the  won- 
drous tale,  but  very  mildly  hinted  that  he  might  be  misin- 
formed, on  which  he  swore,  by  his  ancestors  and  his  king, 
that  he  had  visited  the  spot,  and  paid  a tax  to  see  the  won- 
der ; and  that,  consequently,  his  testimony  was  indubitable.” 

The  Namaquas  have  the  following  singular  superstition 
with  regard  to  the  hare,  which  no  adult  is  allowed  to  eat. 
The  legend  involves  the  sublime  Christian  doctrine  of  im- 
mortality. 

Once  upon  a time  the  moon  called  the  hare,  and  com- 
manded him  to  convey  to  man  the  following  message : “ As 
I die  and  am  born  again,*  so  you  shall  die  and  be  again 
alive.”  The  hare  hastened  to  obey;  but  instead  of  saying, 
“ As  I die  and  am  born  again,”  he  said,  “ As  I die  and  am 
not  born  again.”  On  his  return,  the  moon  inquired  what 
words  he  had  conveyed  to  mankind ; and  on  being  informed, 
the  luminary  exclaimed,  “What!  have  you  said  to  man, 

4 As  I die  and  am  not  born  again,  so  you  shall  die  and  not 
be  again  alive !’  ” And  with  this  he  hurled  a stick  at  the 
hare  with  such  force  as  to  split  open  his  lips,  which  is  the 
cause  of  the  peculiar  formation  of  this  animal’s  mouth.  The 
hare  quickly  betook  himself  to  flight,  and  is  said  to  be  flying 
to  the  present  day.  The  old  Namaquas  used  to  say,  “We 
are  still  enraged  with  the  hare,  because  he  has  brought  such 
a bad  message,  and  we  will  not  eat  him.” 

On  the  occasion  of  a youth  coming  of  age,  or,  rather,  when 
becoming  a “man,”  there  is  great  rejoicing.  From  that  day' 
forward  he  is  forbidden  to  eat  the  hare,  or  even  to  come  in 
contact  with  the  fire  where  this  animal  has  been  prepared. 
Should  he  transgress  this  command,  he  is  not  unfrequently 
banished  from  his  werft,  though,  on  paying  a fine,  he  may 

* When  speaking  of  the  moon,  the  Namaquas  do  not  say,  like  our- 
selves, that  it  rises  and  sets,  hut  that  “ it  dies  and  is  born  again.” 


318 


THE  WITCH-DOCTOR. 


again  be  admitted  to  the  community.  He  is,  moreover,  no 
longer  permitted  to  “suck  the  goats.”* 

The  Namaquas,  like  almost  all  nations  who  are  sunk  in 
barbarism,  have  great  faith  in  sorcery,  and  male  and  female 
witch-doctors  equally  play  conspicuous  parts.  These  im- 
postors are  supposed  to  have  the  power  to  procure  rain,  to 
restore  the  sick  to  health,  to  discover  the  cause  of  a person’s 
death,  and  to  perform  other  miracles.  They  are  crafty  crea- 
tures, and  know  how  to  take  advantage  of  the  popular  igno- 
rance. Even  civilized  men  have  been  deceived  by  their  wiles. 
Their  principal  stipulation  before  they  exercise  any  of  their 
arts  is  to  have  some  animal  slaughtered,  which  they  prescribe 
according  to  their  fancy  and  to  the  wealth  of  their  patients. 
Mr.  Moffat  tells  us  that  a stout  ox  might  be  a cure  for  a 
slight  cold  in  a chieftain,  while  a kid  would  be  a remedy  for 
a fever  among  the  poor,  from  whom  there  could  be  no  chance 
of  obtaining  any  thing  greater. 

The  Namaqua  witch-doctor  is  called  kaiaob , or  Icaiaobs  if 
a woman.  On  being  called  to  the  sick-bed,  after  having  ex- 
amined the  patient,  he  or  she  generally  declares  that  the  ail- 
ment is  caused  by  a great  snake  (toros)  having  fired  an  ar- 
row into  the  stomach.  The  sorcerer  operates  by  feeling  this 
part  of  the  body,  and  by  a good  squeezing  endeavors  to  coax 
the  illness  away.  Another  approved  plan  is  to  make  a small 
incision  on  the  body  about  the  place  where  the  cause  of  the 
disease  is  supposed  to  lurk,  and  to  suck  it  out.  The  produc- 
tion of  a snake,  a frog,  an  insect,  or  the  like,  is  frequently 
the  result.  Eyebrecht  solemnly  declared  that  he  once  was 
an  eye-witness  to  such  an  operation  on  a woman  at  Jonker’s 
place.  When  the  witch-doctor  arrived,  a sheep  was  killed, 
and  the  sinews  of  the  back  were  cut  out  and  rolled  up  into  a 
small  ball,  which  the  patient  was  made  to  swallow,  the  re- 

* It  is  a practice  among  the  young  Namaquas  to  hold  a goat  be- 
tween the  knees,  and  draw  the  milk  directly  from  the  teats  of  the  an- 
imal into  their  own  mouths. 


WITCH-DOCTORS AMULETS. 


319 


mainder  of  the  animal,  of  course,  being  appropriated  to  the 
sorcerer’s  own  stomach.  A few  days  afterward  the  wizard 
returned,  and  cut  some  small  holes  in  the  abdomen  of  the  pa- 
tient, on  which  a small  snake  escaped,  then  a lizard,  numer- 
ous other  animals  following. 

To  become  a witch-doctor  of  any  importance,  a person  is 
required  to  be  instructed  by  one  previously  well  versed  in  the 
mysteries  of  the  black  art.  He  must  begin  his  lessons  by 
swallowing  animal  poison,  be  bitten  by  venomous  reptiles,  or 
have  poison  inoculated  into  his  body.  A cap,  a handker- 
chief, or  any  sort  of  clothing  worn  by  such  a person  until  it 
has  become  perfectly  saturated  with  filth  is  considered  the 
most  infallible  cure  for  all  kinds  of  diseases,  poisonous  bites, 
&c.  On  emergences  a corner  of  this  treasure  is  washed,  and 
the  dirty  water  thus  produced  is  given  to  the  patient,  beast 
or  man,  to  drink.  The  chief  Amral  assured  me  that  he 
possessed  a cap  of  this  kind  with  which  he  had  effected  innu- 
merable cures.  “ It  is  sure,”  he  said,  “ to  cause  relief  when 
nothing  else  is  of  any  avail.”  The  witch-doctors  have  also 
‘other  disgusting  methods  of  effecting  cures. 

Like  most  of  the  tribes  in  Southern  Africa,  the  Nama- 
quas  have  great  faith  in  amulets,  which  consist,  as  usual, 
of  the  teeth  and  claws  of  lions,  hyaenas,  and  other  wild 
beasts,  pieces  of  wood,  bone,  dried  flesh  and  fat,  roots  of 
plants,  &c. 

When  a chief  died,  it  was  formerly  customary  to  call  the 
whole  tribe  together,  and  to  give  a grand  feast  in  honor  of 
the  occasion.  The  fat,  and  all  the  choice  parts  of  the  slaugh- 
tered animals,  were  preserved  for  the  son  of  the  deceased,  who 
was  to  succeed  hjLs  father  in  the  chieftainship.*  The  raw  fat 
was  placed  on  his  head,  and  worn  until  it  became  dry,  when 

* After  a great  hunt,  it  was  also  the  custom  to  reserve  for  the  chief 
the  best  pieces  of  the  different  kinds  of  game  which  had  been  killed, 
such  as  the  breast  of  the  eland,  the  hump  of  the  rhinoceros,  and  so 
forth,  the  rest  being  divided  among  the  tribe. 


320 


TRANSFORMATION. 


it  was  transferred  to  some  crone,  who  carefully  preserved  it 
as  a much-prized  amulet. 

During  his  journeyings  in  Great  Namaqua-land,  Sir  James 
Alexander  was  told  by  the  natives  that  the  Bushwomen  have 
it  in  their  power  to  change  their  forms  into  lions,  hyasnas, 
and  other  beasts  of  prey.  The  following  legend  illustrates 
this  superstition  : 

“ Once  on  a time,  a certain  Namaqua  was  traveling  in 
company  with  a Bushwoman  carrying  a child  on  her  back. 
They  had  proceeded  some  distance  on  their  journey,  when 
a troop  of  wild  horses  (zebras)  appeared,  and  the  man  said 
to  the  woman,  4 1 am  hungry ; and  as  I know  you  can  turn 
yourself  into  a lion,  do  so  now,  and  catch  us  a wild  horse, 
that  we  may  eat.’ 

“The  woman  answered,  4 You’ll  be  afraid.’ 

“ 6 No,  no,’  said  the  man.  6 1 am  afraid  of  dying  of  hun- 
ger, but  not  of  you.’ 

“While  he  was  speaking,  hair  began  to  appear  at  the 
back  of  the  woman’s  neck,  her  nails  assumed  the  appearance 
of  claws,  and  her  features  altered.  She  set  down  the  child. 

“ The  man,  alarmed  at  the  change,  climbed  a tree  close  by, 
while  the  woman  glared  at  him  fearfully  ; and,  going  to  one 
side,  she  threw  off  her  skin  petticoat,  when  a perfect  lion 
rushed  out  into  the  plain.  It  bounded  and  crept  among  the 
bushes  toward  the  wild  horses  ; and,  springing  on  one  of 
them,  it  fell,  and  the  lion  lapped  its  blood.  The  lion  then 
came  back  to  where  the  child  was  crying,  and  the  man  called 
from  the  tree,  ‘ Enough ! enough ! Don’t  hurt  me.  Put 
off  your  lion’s- shape.  I’ll  never  ask  to  see  this  again.’ 

“ The  lion  looked  at  him  and  growled.  ‘ I’ll  remain  here 
till  I die,’  exclaimed  the  man,  ‘if  you  don’t  become  a woman 
again.’  The  mane  and  tail  began  to  disappear,  the  lion  went 
toward  the  bush  where  the  skin  petticoat  lay : it  was  slipped 
on,  and  the  woman,  in  her  proper  shape,  took  up  the  child. 
The  man  descended,  partook  of  the  horse’s  flesh,  but  never 
again  asked  the  woman  to  catch  game  for  him.” 


ASTRONOMY MARRIAGE. 


321 


On  the  death  of  a person,  some  of  his  cattle  (the  richer 
the  deceased,  the  more  numerous  the  animals)  are  killed,  and 
a banquet  is  given  to  his  relations  and  friends.  On  these  oc- 
casions the  poor  beasts  are  suffocated.  Ordinarily,  and  when 
intended  for  food  alone,  animals  are  dispatched  by  some  sharp- 
cutting instrument.  The  flesh,  never  eaten  raw,  and  not  oft- 
en when  roasted,  is  usually  served  up  when  boiled. 

The  ideas  of  a Namaqua  as  to  the  formation  and  rotary 
motion  of  the  heavenly  bodies,  if  not  very  profound,  are  un- 
questionably very  original.  “ The  sun,  by  some  of  the  peo- 
ple of  this  benighted  land,”  says  an  enterprising  traveler,  “ is 
considered  to  be  a mass  of  fat,  which  descends  nightly  to  the 
sea,  where  it  is  laid  hold  of  by  the  chief  of  a white  man’s 
ship,  who  cuts  away  a portion  of  tallow,  and,  giving  the  rest 
a kick,  it  bounds  away,  sinks  under  the  wave,  goes  round 
below,  and  then  comes  up  again  in  the  east.” 

When  a man  feels  a desire  to  enter  the  matrimonial  state, 
he  goes  to  the  father  of  the  woman  on  whom  he  has  settled 
his  affection,  and  demands  her  in  marriage.  If  the  parent  be 
favorable  to  the  match,  the  affair  may  be  considered  as  set- 
tled. An  ox  or  a cow  is  then  killed  outside  the  door  of  the 
bride’s  home,  and  the  ceremony  is  over. 

Polygamy  is  practiced  without  limitation.  If  a man  be- 
come tired  of  his  wife,  he  unceremoniously  returns  her  to 
the  parental  roof,  and  however  much  she  (or  the  parents) 
may  object  to  so  summary  a proceeding,  there  is  no  remedy. 

Widows  are  left  to  shift  for  themselves. 

They  neither  cradle  nor  circumcise  their  children,  which 
they  are  said  to  name  in  the  following  singular  manner.  No 
man  nor  woman  has  more  than  one  name,  which  is  retained 
even  after  marriage.  If  a daughter  be  born,  she  assumes  the 
name  of  her  father,  while  a boy  would  be  called  after  his 
mother,  with  very  little  alteration.  I never  could  under- 
stand the  reason  of  this. 

Within  the  memory  of  the  present  generation,  a barbarous 
0 2 


322  BARBAROUS  PRACTICE NAMAQUAS  LONG-LIVED. 

practice  prevailed  of  leaving  old  and  disabled  people  to  per- 
ish far  away  from  the  dwellings  of  men.  A slight  fence  was 
raised  round  the  “ living-dead,”  and  a small  supply  of  water 
was  placed  at  his  side,  when  he  was  abandoned  to  his  fate. 
Mr.  Moffat,  during  his  wanderings  in  Namaqua-land,  saw  one 
of  these  wretches  (a  woman),  and  on  inquiring  the  cause  of 
her  being  thus  deserted,  she  replied,  “ I am  old,  you  see,  and 
no  longer  able  to  serve  them  (referring  to  her  grown-up  chil 
dren).  When  they  kill  game,  I am  too  feeble  to  help  in  car- 
rying home  the  flesh ; I am  incapable  of  gathering  wood  to 
make  fire ; and  I can  not  carry  their  children  on  my  back,  as 
I used  to  do  .” 

The  Namaquas  may  be  said  to  be  long-lived,  for  individ- 
uals have  been  known  to  reach  the  advanced  age  pf  ninety, 
and  even  one  hundred  years.  This  is  the  more  remarkable, 
when  the  very  wretched  life  they  lead  is  taken  into  consid- 
eration. 

The  Namaquas  have  a singular  custom  both  among  them- 
selves and  with  regard  to  strangers,  which  consists  in  the 
adoption  of  a “ father”  and  a “ mother.”  This  practice  is  so 
widely  observed,  that  few  who  come  in  contact  with  the  sev- 
eral tribes  are  able  to  avoid  it.  Almost  every  European 
trader,  indeed,  possesses  in  each  village  which  he  is  in  the 
habit  of  frequenting  either  a so-called  “father”  or  “mother.” 
But  the  custom  is  a most  inconvenient  one,  to  the  traveler  at 
least,  for  he  may  be  pretty  sure  that,  as  soon  as  this  near  de- 
gree of  consanguinity  is  established  between  himself  and  a 
Namaqua,  he  will  be  asked  for  a horse  or  an  ox,  or  it  may 
be  for  the  very  coat  upon  his  back,  which,  as  in  duty  bound, 
he  is  expected  to  hand  over  to  “ papa”  or  “ mamma,”  as  the 
case  may  be.  The  poor  son,  it  is  true,  has  also  the  privilege 
of  demanding  any  thing  that  may  captivate  his  fancy;  but 
since  a native  is  usually  more  forward  and  importunate  than 
a European,  the  bargain,  as  a rule,  is  generally  a losing  one 
to  the  latter. 


SINGULAR  CUSTOM ORNAMENTS ARMS. 


323 


When  two  Namaquas  are  talking  together,  and  one  is  re- 
lating a story,  the  listener  repeats  the  last  words  of  the  speak- 
er, even  if  he  should  know  as  much  of  the  matter  as  his  in- 
formant. For  instance:  if  a man  begin  his  recital  by  say- 
ing, “ As  I walked  along  the  river,  a very  large  rhinoceros 
rushed  suddenly  upon  me.”  “ Rushed  suddenly  upon  me,” 
echoes  the  auditor.  “He  was  very  fat.”  “Very  fat,”  the 
other  ejaculates,  and  so  forth. 

The  Namaquas  are  fond  of  ornamenting  their  persons  pro- 
fusely with  brass,  iron,  and  copper,  but  more  especially  with 
small  beads  of  various  colors.  A kind  of  black,  dull  bead, 
manufactured  by  themselves,  is  particularly  esteemed.  A 
quantity  of  resin  is  procured,  which  they  melt  and  mix  wfith 
powdered  charcoal,  and,  during  the  process  of  cooling,  it  is 
diligently  kneaded,  until,  being  converted  to  the  consistency 
of  gum,  it  is  drawn  out  into  long,  narrow  bars.  Again  it  is 
gently  heated  over  a slow  fire,  when  small  bits  are  detached 
and  worked  between  the  fingers  till  they  assume  the  desired 
shape.  Their  patterns  of  bead-work  are  by  no  means  devoid 
of  taste. 

These  people  tattoo  themselves,  and  also  anoint  and  be- 
sprinkle their  bodies  with  a profusion  of  grease  and  powders. 
The  latter  are  of  several  kinds,  and  are  chiefly  obtained  from 
the  leaves  of  plants  of  the  croton  and  cliosma  families.  These 
powders  are  called  “ buku”  by  the  Namaquas,  and  are  much 
esteemed,  more  especially  the  kind  procured  south  of  the 
Orange  River,  which  has  a very  agreeable  and  aromatic  scent. 

The  sole  arms  of  the  Namaquas  of  the  present  day  are 
guns.  Their  original  weapons,  which  consisted  of  the  bowr 
and  arrow,  the  assegai,  and  an  immense  shield  (made  out  of 
an  entire,  single-folded  ox-hide),  are  now  rarely  seen. 

The  Namaquas  are  an  excessively  idle  race.  They  may 
be  seen  basking  in  the  sun  for  days  together  in  listless  inac- 
tivity, frequently  almost  perishing  from  thirst  or  hunger, 
when,  with  very  little  exertion,  they  may  have  it  in  their 


324  DIVERSIONS DISTILLING DOMESTIC  ANIMALS. 

power  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  nature.  If  urged  to  work, 
they  have  been  heard  to  say,  “Why  should  we  resemble 
the  worms  of  the  ground  V9  A few  may  occasionally  be  seen 
employing  themselves  in  making  neat  little  camp-stools  and 
in  repairing  guns,  for  which  they  have  a certain  aptitude. 
Jonker  Afrikaner — be  it  said  to  his  honor — is  by  far  the 
most  industrious  Hottentot  that  I have  yet  seen. 

They  are  excessively  fond  of  diversions,  more  especially 
music  and  dancing.  They  do  not,  however,  distinguish  them- 
selves by  grace  in  their  movements,  nor  do  they  even  possess 
that  dexterity  and  flexibility  of  limb  that  the  Ovambo  ladies 
— at  the  expense  of  our  peace  of  mind — exhibited  at  King 
Nangoro’s  court  ball . 

They  understand  and  practice  the  art  of  distilling  spirits. 
When  a certain  kind  of  berry,  of  a sweet  and  agreeable  taste, 
is  ripe,  large  quantities  are  collected  and  put  into  a skin  bag 
to  ferment.  On  being  sufficiently  advanced,  they  are  depos- 
ited in  a large  pot  and  boiled,  and  the  steam  drawn  off  into 
another  vessel  joined  to  it  by  an  old  gun-barrel.  The  liquor 
is  then  allowed  to  settle  for  a few  days,  and  becomes  so  strong 
and  intoxicating  that  a small  glass  or  two  is  sufficient  to  up- 
set any  man’s  reason  not  previously  accustomed  to  it.  I 
have  seen  the  natives  become  perfectly  maddened  by  its 
effect. 

They  also  make  a kind  of  mead  (a  favorite  drink  with  the 
ancient  Northmen),  which  is  a pleasant  and  refreshing  bev- 
erage, and,  unless  partaken  of  to  excess,  is  comparatively 
harmless. 

The  domestic  animals  of  the  country  are  the  cow,  the 
sheep,  the  goat,  and  the  dog.  The  sheep  is  highly  prized  by 
them,  so  much  so  that  at  one  time  (before  the  introduction 
of  tobacco)  it  was  more  thought  of  than  any  thing  else — even 
than  women ! The  original  breed  of  Nam  aqua  cattle  is  near- 
ly extinct.  The  southern  tribes  still  possess  it,  though  more 
or  less  mixed  with  that  of  the  colony  and  Damara-land.  In 


LEAVE  THE  ORANGE  RIVER KOMAGGAS. 


325 


shape  and  size  the  Namaqua  cattle  approach  nearer  the  Eu- 
ropean breed  than  to  that  indigenous  to  the  countries  north 
of  them.  They  are  of  moderate  size,  very  compact,  and 
have  short  but  stout  horns  (usually  curved  inward),  with 
rather  large  hoofs. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Leave  the  Orange  River. — Arrival  at  Komaggas. — Gardening  and 
Agriculture. — The  Author  starts  alone  for  the  Cape.  — Colony 
Horses. — Enmity  of  the  Boers  to  “ Britishers.” — Dutch  Salutation. 
— The  Author  must  have  been  at  Timbuctoo,  whether  or  no. — He 
arrives  at  Cape-Town. — Cuts  a sorry  figure. — Is  run  away  with. — 
A Feast  of  Oranges. — Ghost  Stories. — Cattle  Auction.— Hans  and 
John  Allen  proceed  to  Australia. — Preparations  for  Journey  to  the 
Ngami. — Departure  from  the  Cape. 

On  the  25  th  of  August  we  left  the  inhospitable  banks  of 
the  Orange  River.  After  rather  more  than  a week’s  slow 
travel  through  dreary  and  uninteresting  tracts  of  land,  covered 
by  a deep,  yielding  sandy  soil,  bearing  a dwarfish  vegetation, 
we  arrived  at  Komaggas,  also  a Rhenish  missionary  station. 
The  Rev.  Mr.  "Which  now  officiated  here.*  The  congrega- 
tion consists  of  a promiscuous  collection  of  Hottentots  and 
the  offspring  of  other  dark-colored  natives. 

Komaggas  is  picturesquely  situated,  and  well  supplied  with 
water.  Gardening  is  brought  almost  to  perfection ; and,  not- 
withstanding the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  corn  is  cultivated 
with  success  in  the  neighborhood.  Indeed,  the  best  wheat 
in  the  west  part  of  the  colony,  I am  informed,  is  grown  here ; 
but  its  cultivation  is  attended  with  much  labor,  since  it  can 

* This  institution  was  founded  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Schmelen.  In 
1830,  during  the  administration  of  Sir  Lowry  Cole,  it  received  by 
charter  an  extensive  grant  of  territory  from  the  British  government  at 
the  Cape.  On  that  memorable  occasion  the  zealous  missionary  pre- 
sented to  the  governor  a translation  of  the  four  Gospels  in  the  Nama- 
qua  tongue. 


326  PROCURE  HORSES THE  CAPE  COLONY  HORSE. 

only  be  raised  on  the  summit  of  hills  (which  retain  moisture 
longer  than  the  lowlands)  rising  not  unfrequently  several 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 

Except  at  the  station  and  one  or  two  other  spots,  the  ex- 
tensive grounds  are  scantily  watered  and  ill  adapted  for  graz- 
ing. During  our  visit,  numbers  of  cattle  were  dying  from 
starvation.  The  region  is,  moreover,  in  some  seasons  infected 
by  diseases  fatal  to  beasts  of  pasture,  and  these  maladies,  of 
late  years,  have  been  of  so  destructive  a character  as  nearly 
to  exterminate  the  cattle.  Indeed,  many  of  the  Bastards  and 
Hottentots,  who  chiefly  inhabit  these  parts,  and  who  were 
formerly  living  in  great  abundance,  are  reduced  to  beggary 
from  this  cause. 

I now  determined  to  leave  Hans,  and  proceed  in  advance 
to  Cape-Town,  with  a view  of  making  arrangements  about 
the  sale  of  the  cattle  and  the  intended  expedition  to  the  Nga- 
mi.  As  we  were  now  in  a locality  where  horses  might  be 
obtained,  I procured  three  or  four  of  these  animals  without 
delay,  partly  for  cash  and  partly  for  cattle.  The  rate  of  ex- 
change was  from  five  to  ten  oxen,  according  to  the  qualities 
of  the  horse ; or,  if  money,  100  rix  doll.  (£7  10).  A first- 
rate  hack  might  be  purchased  for  £10,  though,  of  course, 
high-bred  horses  were  more  expensive. 

The  Cape  Colony  horse  is  a wonderful  beast.  Pie  is  sup- 
posed to  be  of  Spanish  descent,  but  of  late  years  has  been 
much  crossed  by  various  breeds.  Without  any  pretension  to 
beauty,  he  is,  perhaps,  unrivaled  in  docility,  hardiness,  and 
endurance.  In  eight  days  (one  of  which  was  devoted  to  rest) 
I rode,  accompanied  by  a Plottentot  servant,  from  near  Ko- 
maggas  to  Cape-Town,  a distance  of  upward  of  four  hund- 
red miles  by  road,  thus  averaging  fifty  miles  per  day.  On 
an  after  occasion  I remember  to  have  performed  upward  of 
ninety  miles  at  a very  great  pace,  only  once  or  twice  re- 
moving the  saddle  for  a few  minutes.  And  be  it  borne  in 
mind  that  the  animals  were  young,  indifferently  broken-in, 
unshod,  and  had  never  been  stall-fed. 


THE  CAPE  COLONY  HORSE. 


327 


A most  striking  instance  of  the  extraordinary  endurance 
of  Colony  horses  occurred  a few  years  ago  in  Great  Nama- 
qua-land.  The  animal  in  question  belonged  to  a son  of  the 
Hottentot  chief  Zwartbooi,  who  one  day,  while  hunting  in  an 
open  tract  of  country,  fell  in  with  a troop  of  eleven  giraffes, 
to  which  he  immediately  gave  chase,  and  the  whole  of  which 
he  rode  down  and  shot  in  succession.  But  the  immense  ex- 
ertion was  too  much  for  the  gallant  creature,  whose  life  was 
thus  sacrificed. 

This  remarkable  horse  was  well  known  throughout  Great 
Namaqua-land,  and  is  said  to  have  been  quite  mad  with  ex- 
citement when  he  observed  a wild  animal.  He  only  ceased 
to  pursue  when  the  game  was  either  killed  or  no  longer  in 
sight. 

The  Colony  horses,  with  a little  training,  answer  admira- 
bly for  either  hunting  or  shooting.  They  may  be  taught  to 
remain  stationary  for  hours  together  by  merely  turning  the 
bridle  over  their  heads,  resting  the  extremities  of  the  reins 
on  the  ground.  They  seldom  trot ; the  usual  pace  is  a can- 
ter, and  occasionally  an  amble. 

So  much  has  already  been  said  and  written  on  the  Cape 
Colony,  its  sturdy  Boers,  its  soil,  its  productions,  and  so  forth, 
that  it  would  be  superfluous  to  add  any  thing  farther.  Suf- 
fice it  to  mention  a few  of  the  most  remarkable  incidents  of 
my  journey. 

Soon  after  leaving  Komaggas,  my  horse — a young  half- 
trained  stallion  which  had  only  been  ridden  thrice — shied, 
and,  rearing  on  his  hind  legs,  came  to  the  ground  on  his  back 
with  sudden  violence.  Providentially,  the  soil  was  soft  and 
yielding,  and  altlioqgh  I sustained  his  whole  weight  for  a few 
seconds,  I escaped  with  no  worse  consequence  than  a tight 
squeezing. 

After  leaving  Komaggas  the  homesteads  of  the  Boer  he- 
camb  daily  more  numerous.  Riding  up  one  morning  to  a 
house,  with  a view  of  obtaining  some  bread  and  flour,  I was 


328 


DUTCH  WELCOME HOSPITALITY. 


greeted  with  the  following  civil  address : “ Daar  komt  weder 
die  verdoomde  Engelsman;”  that  is,  “ There  comes  again 
the  cursed  Englishman.”  Though  I had  heard  much  of  the 
aversion  these  men  entertain  for  all  that  is  British,  and  their 
coarse  language  in  general,  I certainly  had  not  expected  that 
they  would  have  carried  their  animosity  so  far.  Walking 
straight  up  to  the  individual  that  had  thus  accosted  me,  I 
said,  in  as  good  Dutch  as  I could  muster,  “ My  good  friend, 
in  my  country,  when  a stranger  does  us  the  honor  to  pay  us 
a visit,  before  even  asking  his  errand  or  his  name,  much  less 
abusing  him,  we  invite  him  to  our  table ; and,  when  he  has 
quenched  his  thirst  and  satisfied  his  hunger,  we  may  prob- 
ably inquire  whence  he  comes  or  where  he  goes  and  with 
this  I leaped  into  the  saddle.  The  fellow  clearly  felt  the  re- 
buke, for,  on  turning  my  horse’s  head  away,  he  endeavored 
to  persuade  me  to  stop ; but  his  rude  salutation  had  quite 
spoiled  my  appetite. 

As  a rule,  however,  though  frequently  coarse  and  abrupt 
in  their  language  and  conversation,  they  are  undeniably  hos- 
pitable ; and  when  a person  can  converse  with  them  in  their 
own  language,  and  accommodate  himself  to  their  manners 
and  peculiarities,  they  are  excellent  fellows,  as  I have  often 
experienced.  To  several  of  their  customs,  nevertheless,  the 
stranger  will  find  some  difficulty  in  reconciling  himself. 

In  these  localities,  on  meeting  a wayfaring  man,  the  Dutch 
Boer  invariably  thus  accosts  him : “ Good-day  ! Where  do 
you  come  from  ? Where  are  you  going  Are  you  married  ? 
How  many  children  have  you  V9  and  so  forth.  If  you  should 
be  so  unfortunate  as  not  to  have  entered  into  the  marriage 
state,  he  is  astonished  beyond  measure,  and  looks  upon  you 
with  something  like  contempt. 

Like  most  people  who  are  novices  in  a foreign  language,  I 
committed  at  first  sad  mistakes,  and  many  a joke  and  laugh 
originated  at  my  expense.  Once,  indeed,  my  awkwardness 
cost  me  the  loss  of  a supper,  of  which  I stood  greatly  in  need, 


AT  TIMBUCTOO,  WHETHER  OR  NO.  329 

having  ridden  some  fifty  miles  in  the  course  of  the  day  with- 
out tasting  food  of  any  description.  In  the  Dutch  language, 
“ danken”  signifies  a direct  refusal ; but,  not  being  aware  of 
this,  I interpreted  it  in  the  very  reverse  sense,  as  meaning, 
“ If  you  please.”  As  often,  therefore,  as  I repeated  the  om- 
inous word,  so  often  had  I the  mortification  of  seeing  the 
smoking  dishes  pass  by  me  ! 

Refreshing  myself  one  afternoon  at  a comfortable  farm- 
house, the  worthy  host  inquired  whence  and  how  far  I had 
journeyed.  Having  made  a rough  calculation  in  my  own 
mind,  I told  him  the  approximate  distance.  No  sooner  had 
I done  so  than  he  clasped  his  hands  together,  and,  turning 
to  his  wife,  exclaimed,  in  the  utmost  amazement,  “ Gracious 
heavens ! the  man  has  been  in  Timbuctoo !”  “ No,  my  good 

friend,  not  quite  so  far,”  I remarked.  But  he  became  too 
much  absorbed  in  the  novel  idea,  and,  without  attending  to 
me,  he  went  on  to  say,  u Yes,  indeed,  the  man  has  been  at 
Timbuctoo.”  I again  took  the  liberty  to  remonstrate,  when 
his  brother,  who  was  also  present,  ejaculated,  “ Yes,  brother, 
you  are  right.  Timbuctoo ! ah ! eh  ? yes ! Let  me  see, 
Timbuctoo.  Ah ! I remember  to  have  read  that  it  is  situated 
at  the  end  of  Africa,  in  a place  where  you  can  see  nothing 
but  sand.”  Once  more  I attempted  to  explain,  but  to  no 
purpose.  Right  or  wrong,  I must  have  been  at  Timbuctoo. 
I secretly  wished  I had  been  there. 

Finding  they  apparently  knew  more  about  my  travels  than 
I did,  I left  them  to  themselves  to  discuss  the  merit  of  the 
journey,  and,  diving  into  the  eatables  which  had  been  lib- 
erally spread  before  me,  I did  ample  justice  to  their  hospi- 
tality. 

On  the  2 2d  of  September  I reached  Cape-Town,  where 
my  appearance  afforded  no  little  delight  and  amusement  to 
the  mob,  who  shouted  merrily  after  me,  “ Look  at  the  jockey ! 
ha ! ha ! ha  !”  My  dress  was  certainly  highly  picturesque. 
An  old  English  hunting-cap  — a present  from  a friend  — 


330 


A TURN-OUT NECK  OR  NOTHING. 


adorned  my  head.  The  striped  jacket  that  I wore,  now  well 
bleached  with  sun  and  rain,  had  shrunk  to  such  a degree  as 
to  reach  only  a few  inches  down  my  back ; and  as  for  sleeves, 
they  just  covered  the  elbows,  the  rest  having  been  left  on  the 
“ Wacht-een-bigte”  bushes.  My  nether  garments,  consisting 
of  a pair  of  moleskin  trowsers,  were  on  a par  with  my  jack- 
et, for  they  hardly  reached  to  the  calf  of  my  leg ; and,  to  com- 
plete the  “ turn-out,”  my  “ veld”  shoes  were  of  untanned 
leather,  and  so  sunburnt  as  to  resemble  bricks.  And  as 
Cape-Town  at  that  time  could  boast  of  no  u Moses  and  Son,” 
or  “ Silver  and  Co.,”  it  was  only  by  degrees,  and  exploring 
tha  different  shops,  that  I was  able  to  remodel  my  dress. 

I lost  no  time  in  advertising  our  cattle;  and,  having  se- 
cured a good  auctioneer  and  made  some  other  arrangements, 
I again  set  off  to  join  my  party. 

Just  as  I left  Cape-Town,  my  horse,  which  was  excessive- 
ly shy,  took  fright,  and  started  off  at  a rate  which  would 
have  “taken  the  shine”  out  of  even  John  Gilpin’s  runaway 
steed.  In  the  attempt  to  stop  him,  the  bit  (a  very  substan- 
tial one)  broke,  and  in  an  instant  I was  at  the  animal’s  mer- 
cy. Finding  myself  in  an  awkward  predicament,  and  being 
desirous  to  shorten  the  race  as  much  as  possible,  I unhesi- 
tatingly gave  him  both  spur  and  whip,  and,  as  a conse- 
quence, ditches,  walls,  and  fences  were  leaped  and  passed  at 
a fearful  rate,  to  the  great  danger  of  myself  and  those  I en- 
countered. I do  not  profess  to  be  skilled  in  horsemanship, 
my  experience  as  an  equestrian  being  very  small.  It  was, 
therefore,  as  much  as  I could  do  to  keep  my  seat.  Neverthe- 
less, I had  the  good  fortune  to  escape  unhurt,  for  after  a while 
my  steed  became  exhausted,  and  pulled  up  of  his  own  accord. 

I found  Hans  in  good  health.  The  Dutch  Boers  had  once 
or  twice  behaved  rudely,  but  the  Dane’s  herculean  appear- 
ance and  independent  manner  quickly  cooled  their  ire,  and 
he  was  allowed  to  pass  unmolested.  He  told  his  adventures 
with  graphic  effect  and  racy  humor. 


A FEAST  OF  ORANGES GHOST-STORIES. 


331 


Oranges,  which  are  very  abundant  in  these  parts,  were  be- 
ginning to  ripen.  One  day  some  of  our  Damaras  expressed 
a wish  to  taste  the  enticing  fruit,  and,  being  supplied  with  a 
shilling,  they  started  off.  In  a short  time  they  brought  back 
no  less  than  two  hundred  oranges.  They  had  scarcely  fin- 
ished a dozen  or  two,  however,  before  the  effect  became  irre- 
sistible. The  acidity  of  the  fruit  at  this  time  of  the  year  was 
so  great  that  it  acted  with  the  force  of  gun-cotton  ; and,  aft- 
er having  a “ good  blow-out,’’  they  were  so  disordered  as  to 
be  unable  to  taste  food  for  several  successive  days.  Indeed, 
they  were  effectually  cured  of  their  orange  mania. 

At  the  bivouac  fire  I was  often  entertained  with  ghost-sto- 
ries. John,  our  wagon-driver,  who  seemed  fully  to  believe 
in  apparitions,  was  the  chief  narrator. 

“ Ghosts,”  said  he,  “ abound  in  and  about  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Cape.  At  times  they  appear  in  the  shape  of 
dogs;  at  others,  in  that  of  human  beings.  Once,  late  at 
night,  I was  coming  from  Simon’s  Bay,  when  the  oxen  all  of 
a sudden  stopped  short,  and  would  have  darted  right  into  the 
bush  had  I not  been  quick  to  turn  them.  Just  then,  noth- 
ing could  be  seen ; but  presently  a large  white  dog,  with  a 
chain  round  the  neck,  appeared.  He  passed  us  slowly  with- 
out injuring  us  in  any  way,  and  shaped  his  course  over  a 
cross-road,  when  we  continued  our  journey.  At  another  time 
I met  the  “ spook”  (ghost)  in  the  form  of  a very  tall  black 
man,  accompanied  by  a large  dog  of  the  same  color. 

t£  Frequently,  when  returning  late  at  night  to  my  master’s 
place,  while  yet  at  a distance,  I have  seen  the  whole  yard 
and  dwelling-house  splendidly  illuminated,  but  on  coming  to 
the  spot  all  was  gone. 

“ As  a protection  to  the  garden,  my  master  had  erected  a 
hut,  where  men  slept  at  night.  After  a while,  however,  the 
place  became  so  haunted  that  the  watchmen  fled,  and  slept 
any  where  they  could  in  the  bush.  The  { spooks’  were  seen 
continually  to  promenade  up  and  down  the  walks  arm-in- 
arm, taking  an  occasional  peep  into  the  house. 


332 


CATTLE  SOLD  BY  AUCTION A TREAT. 


“In  dark  nights  a ghost  would  sometimes  appear  at  the 
head  of  the  team,  and,  laying  hold  of  the  thong  attached  to 
the  leading  ox,  would  conduct  the  cattle  out  of  their  proper 
course,  I being  totally  unconscious  of  the  proceedings  at  the 
time. 

“Again,  I would  hear  wagons  and  carriages  coming  along 
the  road  at  a brisk  pace,  and,  while  making  way  for  them  to 
pass,  I found,  to  my  astonishment,  that  the  vehicles  were  al- 
ready far  ahead  of  us.” 

On  the  18th  of  October,  and  when  within  a day’s  ride  of 
Cape-Town,  we  disposed  of  our  cattle  by  public  auction. 

Owing  to  the  great  distance  we  had  brought  them,  and  the 
scarcity  of  pasturage  during  the  latter  part  of  the  journey, 
our  cattle  had  become  very  lean,  and,  although  they  were 
in  themselves  an  exceedingly  fine  lot,  their  want  of  condition 
neither  suited  the  butcher  nor  the  grazier.  In  their  emaci- 
ated state,  indeed,  it  would  require  fully  a year  before  they 
would  become  acclimatized  and  refattened,  in  which  interval, 
and  before  getting  accustomed  to  their  new  pasturage,  many 
would  probably  die.  They  scarcely  averaged  £2  per  head. 
The  cows  sold  almost  the  best ; not  on  account  of  the  milk 
they  yielded,  for  that  was  little  or  nothing,  but  simply  be- 
cause, strange  to  say,  they  were  exempted  from  a peculiar 
disease  ( strangury ) which  kills  the  oxen  in  these  parts.  The 
Boers  are  in  consequence  obliged  to  make  use  of  cows  for  ag- 
ricultural purposes. 

It  is  customary  on  these  occasions  to  give  a banquet  to 
the  purchasers,  who  chiefly  consist  of  Dutch  farmers ; and 
if  the  cattle  are  known  to  be  fit  for  slaughter,  the  butchers 
of  the  metropolis  also  come  in  for  a share.  A large  quan- 
tity of  wine  is  supposed  to  be  necessary  to  facilitate  the  sale. 
Fortunately,  this  kind  of  liquor  is  very  cheap ; and  though 
a person  may  have  to  entertain  from  fifty  to  one  hundred 
people  for  two  days  together,  the  expense  of  such  festivities 
rarely  exceeds  seven  or  eight  pounds  sterling. 


EXC  URSIONS D ACRE  S PULPIT, 


333 


Our  hands  being  now  free,  the  first  object  to  which  we 
turned  our  attention  was  to  secure  a vessel  to  carry  us  back 
to  Walfisch  Bay.  There  happened  just  then  to  be  none  at 
the  Cape  but  we  were  promised  one  within  a certain  period. 
In  the  mean  time,  we  occupied  ourselves  in  making  the  need- 
ful  purchases,  &c. 

I also  made  excursions  into  the  neighborhood.  Among 
other  interesting  places,  I visited,  in  company  with  Mr.  Bain 
(the  distinguished  South  African  geologist),  the  famous  pass, 
called  after  my  kind  host,  Bain’s  Kloof,  through  which  the 
road  leads  across  the  Drakenstein  mountains  from  the  village 
of  Wellington  to  the  district  of  Worcestershire.  The  vig- 
nette below  is  a view  of  a certain  part  of  the  pass  designated 


©acre's  pulpit. 


Dacre’s  pulpit,  and  has  been  selected  from  the  portfolio  ot 
an  accomplished  friend  in  Cape-Town. 

We  had  nearly  finished  our  arrangements  when  the  news 
arrived  at  the  Cape  of  the  extraordinary  successes  met  with 


334  AUSTRALIAN  DIGGINGS HANS  AND  JOHN  ALLEN. 

at  the  Australian  gold-diggings,  and  the  same  mania,  though 
not  quite  to  the  same  extent,  which  had  turned  the  people’s 
heads  all  over  the  wrorld,  took  possession  of  the  inhabitants 
of  this  colony.  Every  available  vessel  was  bought  up  or 
chartered  for  the  “ diggings.”  I began  seriously  to  appre- 
hend that  this  would  deprive  us  of  the  craft  we  had  engaged. 
Indeed,  the  owner  did  actually  sell  her,  but,  fortunately, 
placed  another  at  our  disposal,  the  alteration,  however,  caus- 
ing us  very  great  delay. 

Though  the  loss,  at  this  period,  of  the  assistance  of  Hans 
would  have  been  grievous  and  irreparable,  I thought  it  my 
duty  to  explain  to  him  the  respective  advantages  of  remain- 
ing with  me  and  going  to  Australia.  By  adhering  to  the 
trading,  he  would  be  pretty  sure  to  secure  a fair  income  an- 
nually, while  by  adopting  the  other  plan  he  might  have  the 
chance  of  realizing  a fortune  in  the  course  of  a year  or  two. 
I urged  that  if  he  felt  at  all  inclined  to  try  his  luck  at  the 
“ diggings,”  he  should  not  hesitate  ; for,  in  that  case,  I would 
take  charge  of  his  goods  and  dispose  of  them  as  if  they  were 
my  own.  Hans  evidently  appreciated  my  well-meant  inten- 
tions, but  generously  refused  to  do  any  thing  that  was  not  in 
strict  accordance  with  my  own  wishes.  However,  I could 
not  take  advantage  of  such  an  offer  in  his  position,  but  told 
him  to  think  the  matter  well  over  by  himself,  and  to  be  en- 
tirely guided  by  his  own  inclination. 

After  much  hesitation,  Hans  finally  came  to  the  determ- 
ination to  migrate  to  Australia,  and  John  Allen  having  also 
expressed  a wish  to  accompany  him,  I drew  up  an  agreement 
between  them  of  such  a nature  that  they  might  dissolve  part- 
nership if  they  wished,  without  detriment  to  either.  With 
regard  to  myself  and  Hans,  we  agreed  to  share  each  other’s 
fortunes,  though  far  apart,  bad  or  good. 

Matters  having  been  thus  far  settled,  I immediately  ar- 
ranged about  the  passage  of  the  two  adventurers ; provided 
them  with  a supply  of  every  article  necessary  for  such  an  ex- 


ALL  ALONE REFLECTIONS PROCURE  INSTRUMENTS.  335 

pedition,  and  nearly  one  hundred  pounds  sterling  in  ready 
money.  This  change  in  our  original  plans  proved  of  great 
inconvenience  to  me,  inasmuch  as  we  had  already  sunk  every 
available  shilling  of  our  small  capital  in  the  intended  expedi- 
tion to  Walfisch  Bay.  However,  it  was  all  successfully  ar- 
ranged, and  in  the  early  part  of  January,  1853,  they  took 
their  departure. 

Thus  once  more  I was  alone.  I could  not  help  reflecting 
on  the  difficulties  of  my  position.  Two  of  the  best  men  that, 
perhaps,  ever  set  foot  on  African  soil,  with  whom  I had 
shared  hardships  and  privations  of  no  trifling  character,  had 
left  me  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  remote  climes.  On  me  alone, 
then,  devolved  the  task  of  watching  over  and  improving  the 
united  interest  of  myself  and  Hans.  Another  duty,  not  less 
urgent,  claimed  my  attention,  namely,  that  of  solving  the 
grand  geographical  problem — the  discovery  of  a route  from 
the  west  coast  to  the  Lake  Ngami. 

On  mentioning  my  trying  position  to  some  Cape  friends, 
they  coolly  advised  me  to  dispose  of  my  goods  and  return  to 
Europe.  I turned  in  disgust  from  the  proposal,  which  only 
served  to  urge  me  to  renewed  exertions.  My  spirits  rose  in 
proportion  to  the  difficulties. 

Immediately  on  the  departure  of  Hans  and  John  Allen, 
I hastened  to  attend  to  my  own  affairs.  I was  tolerably  well 
supplied  with  every  thing  but  servants  and  instruments  for 
taking  astronomical  observations.  After  much  search  and 
many  bargains,  I succeeded  in  getting  together  a very  fair  set 
of  the  latter,  consisting  of  a large,  good-working  sextant,  a 
box-sextant  for  taking  angular  bearings,  two  artificial  hor- 
izons (one  of  colored  plate-glass  mounted  in  brass,  with  lev- 
eling screws,  and  another  for  mercury),  an  excellent  azimuth 
compass,  one  or  two  good  pocket-compasses,  three  boiling- 
point  thermometers  for  ascertaining  heights  of  places  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  two  telescopes,  one  for  common  field- 
work, and  the  other  large  enough  for  occultations,  a chro- 


336 


TIMBO  AGAIN NEW  SERVANTS. 


nometer  watch,  and  two  ordinary  watches.  Mr.  Maclear, 
the  royal  astronomer  at  the  Cape,  kindly  assisted  me  in  se- 
lecting most  of  the  above  instruments.  He,  moreover,  took  a 
great  deal  of  pains  in  adjusting  them,  and  showing  me  their 
use,  though  I fear  I almost  wore  out  his  patience,  for  I was 
excessively  stupid  in  this  respect.  But  I trust  the  result  has 
proved  that  his  labor  was  not  altogether  thrown  away. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival  at  the  Cape  I had  been  fortunate 
enough  in  securing  the  services  of  an  old  acquaintance,  Tim- 
bo,  who  had  safely  returned  from  St.  Helena,  where  he  left 
Mr.  Galt  on.  He  proved  invaluable  to  me.  To  his  charge 
my  dogs  and  native  servants  were  confided,  and  they  throve 
wonderfully  under  his  management. 

I had  intended  to  send  two  or  three  Damaras  with  Hans 
to  Australia  ; but  one  day,  previous  to  his  departure,  they 
came  to  me  in  great  tribulation,  and  said  they  did  not  want 
to  go  any  farther,  but  wished  to  return  with  me  to  their  own 
land.  If  such  was  really  their  intention,  it  became  my  duty 
to  gratify  them  ; but  I could  not  help  feeling  a little  vexed, 
for,  since  no  one  but  Timbo  could  speak  their  language,  I 
strongly  suspected  that  he  had  influenced  their  decision. 
With  a view  of  ascertaining  the  fact,  I called  him,  and  told 
him  my  opinion  ; but  he  stoutly  denied  the  charge,  adding, 
“ Suppose,  master,  me  was  to  take  a horse  from  the  stable 
in  the  Kaap  to  Wynberg,  or  to  any  other  strange  place,  and 
then  leave  him  to  himself,  surely  he  would  return  whence  he 
came ; and  so  it  is  with  the  natives.’ ’ I was  struck  with 
the  sagacity  of  the  remark,  and  said  no  more  about  the 
matter. 

Timbo  had  procured  a passage  from  St.  Helena  in  the 
Birkenhead  man-of-war,  and  on  the  voyage  he  got  acquainted 
with  an  English  lad,  George  Bonfield,  aged  sixteen.  A mu- 
tual attachment  sprung  up  between  the  shrewd  Ethiopian 
and  the  youthful  Saxon,  and  in  a short  time  the  former 
was  the  means  of  indirectly  saving  the  life  of  the  latter.  On 


ATTACHMENT A NONE-SUCH. 


337 


the  arrival  of  the  vessel  at  the  Cape,  the  boy  requested  per- 
mision  to  land,  in  order  to  enjoy  the  society  of  his  swarthy 
friend.  This  was  granted,  on  condition  that  he  should  rejoin 
the  vessel  at  Simon’s  Bay. 

While  doubling  the  southern  extremity  of  Africa,  the  un- 
fortunate Birkenhead  struck,  and,  as  is  well  known,  was  to- 
tally lost,  with  almost  all  hands  on  board. 

Timbo  took  every  care  of  the  boy,  whose  life  had  thus 
been  saved.  He  put  him  to  school,  and  afterward  secured 
him  a berth  with  a tradesman  in  Cape-Town.  Finding  that 
the  youth  was  anxious  to  see  something  more  of  the  world, 
and  to  add  to  his  store  of  knowledge,  I took  him  into  my 
employ.  He  accompanied  me  to  the  Great  Lake,  and  when, 
in  the  course  of  the  journey,  I became  ill,  and  crippled  by 
wounds  inflicted  by  wild  animals,  his  presence  and  tender 
care  greatly  relieved  and  soothed  my  sufferings. 

On  Timbo’s  recommendation,  and  from  possessing  a smat- 
tering of  Portuguese,  I engaged  a Mozambique  liberated 
slave  of  the  name  of  Louis ; but  he  turned  out  the  filthiest, 
laziest,  most  sensual,  and  most  useless  man  I ever  came 
across.  Just  as  I was  about  to  engage  him,  he  said,  “ Of 
course,  master  give  me  my  washing  and  ironing.”  “My 
good  fellow,”  I replied,  “has  Timbo  not  explained  to  you  the 
sort  of  country  we  are  going  to  You  must  thank  your 
stars  if  you  get  water  enough  to  wash  your  face,  much  less 
your  clothes.  And,  if  you  happen  to  get  a sufficiency  for  the 
latter  purpose,  you  will  certainly  have  to  cleanse  your  own 
garments.  In  the  wilderness,  according  to  an  old  saying, 
‘every  man  is  his  own  washerwoman.’  ” 

A young  Hottentot,  whom  I engaged  as  wagon-driver  for 
the  journey,  ran  into  debt,  and  shuffled  his  cards  so  cleverly 
that  I did  not  become  aware  of  the  circumstance  until  the 
day  fixed  for  our  departure,  when  there  was,  of  course,  no 
time  to  look  for  another  driver,  and  I had  no  alternative  leL 
but  to  pay  his  liabilities. 

P 


338 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE. 


The  last  of  my  servants,  also  a Hottentot  and  a wagon- 
driver,  known  as  u old  Piet,”  was,  however,  a most  excellent 
and  well-behaved  man.  He  had  been,  it  is  true,  in  the  habit 
of  getting  drunk,  but,  once  out  of  the  Cape,  he  proved  him- 
self a hard-working,  honest,  and  faithful  fellow,  and  has  never 
since  left  my  service. 

Finding  that  a Mr.  Reid, 
whose  acquaintance  I had  made 
in  Great  Namaqua-land,  and 
who  had  been  very  kind  and  at- 
tentive to  me  when  I was  laid 
up  by  fever,  was  about  to  un- 
dertake a trading  excursion  to 
Walfisch  Bay,  I gladly  availed 
myself  of  the  opportunity  thus 
afforded  of  dividing  between  us 
the  expenses  of  a vessel ; a con- 
siderable sum  was  accordingly 
saved  to  me. 

At  last,  after  many  difficul- 
ties and  delays,  we  were  ready ; 
and  on  the  sixteenth  of  January, 
having  embarked  in  the  schoon- 
er Flying  Fish , we  unfurled  our 
sails  and  bade  farewell  to  Cape- 
Town,  where,  during  a second  stay,  I enjoyed  much  kindness 
and  hospitality. 

* The  above  wood-cut  is  a portrait  of  a negro  youth  born  and  bred 
at  the  Cape.  He  has  been  jobbing,  and  is  returning  home  with  the 
various  articles  intrusted  to  his  charge. 


ARRIVE  AT  WALFISCH  BAY THE  NAMAQUA.  339 


CHAPTER  XXVIIL 

Arrival  at  Walfisch  Bay.— Atrocities  of  the  Namaquas. — Mr.  Hahn. — 
His  Philanthropy. — Author  departs  for  Richterfeldt.  — Shoots  a 
Lion. — Lions  unusually  numerous. — Piet’s  Performances  with  Li- 
ons.— The  Lion  a Church-goer. — Barmen. — Eikhams. — Kamapyu’s 
mad  Doings  and  Consequences  thereof.— Kamapyu  is  wounded  by 
other  Shafts  than  Cupid’s. — Author  visits  Cornelius  ; here  he  meets 
Amral  and  a party  of  Griqua  Elephant-hunters.— Reach  Rehoboth. 
— Tan’s  Mountain. — Copper  Ore. — Jonathan  Afrika. — A Lion  sups 
on  a Goat. — A Lion  besieges  the  Cattle. 

We  had  an  excellent  run  to  Walfisch  Bay,  and  reached  it 
on  the  23d  of  the  month  in  which  we  left  the  Cape.  In  the 
afternoon  I landed  the  horses,  but  very  nearly  lost  the  best. 
The  halter  having  slipped  off  his  head,  he  was  making 
straight  for  the  sea,  and  was  well-nigh  exhausted  before  we 
could  again  secure  him.  The  same  night  I rode  over  to 
Scheppmansdorf,  but  the  darkness  was  so  profound  that  I was 
unable  to  see  the  track  or  hold  any  course.  It  was  by  the 
merest  accident  that  I stumbled  upon  the  house,  to  the  great 
surprise  of  my  old  friends,  the  Bam  family,  whom  I found 
well,  but  not  so  comfortably  lodged  as  when  I saw  them  last, 
the  Kuisip  having  swept  away  their  dwelling-house  and  out- 
buildings. 

From  the  worthy  missionary  I learned  much  both  to  please 
and  grieve  me.  The  Namaquas  had,  as  usual,  been  pillaging 
the  Damaras,  and  were  dealing  death  and  desolation  around 
them.  It  was  no  longer  considered  safe  even  for  white  men 
to  remain.  Indeed,  the  Namaquas  had  already  attacked 
Richterfeldt.  Early  one  morning  a horde  of  these  maraud- 
ers suddenly  appeared,  and  carried  off  all  the  cattle  belonging 
to  the  people  of  the  station.  Not  satisfied  with  this,  they 


340 


MEET  OLD  FRIENDS. 


fired  several  shots  into  the  dwelling-house,  though,  fortunate- 
ly, without  effect.  Mrs.  Rath  and  children  were  laid  up  by 
“eye-sickness,”  and  Mr.  Schoneberg,  who  had  arrived  the 
day  previously,  and  who  was  in  a very  weak  state  from  the 
effects  of  a recent  severe  illness,  was  almost  frightened  out 
of  his  senses  by  the  sudden  and  unexpected  onset. 

On  Mr.  Rath  walking  up  to  the  barbarians  to  remonstrate 
with  them  on  their  brutal  conduct,  they  seized  and  flogged 
him  most  severely.  A Damara  who  was  at  his  side  they 
shot  dead.  In  consequence  of  this  attack,  Messrs.  Rath  and 
Schoneberg  were  daily  expected  to  leave  their  stations,  and 
to  remove  to  Mr.  Barn’s  place. 

On  the  other  hand,  I heard  that  a party  of  Bechuanas  had 
been  visiting  Jonker  Afrikaner,  and  it  was  supposed  they  had 
crossed  the  Kalahari  desert.  This  was  gratifying  intelli- 
gence, because,  if  these  natives  had  been  able  to  pass  through 
such  dreaded  regions,  I might  also  humbly  hope  to  do  the 
same. 

On  my  return  to  the  Bay  I found  almost  all  my  goods, 
and  those  of  my  friend,  Mr.  Reid,  safely  landed,  and,  with 
the  assistance  of  Mr.  Barn’s  oxen,  every  thing  was  quickly 
transferred  to  the  station.  This  was  scarcely  effected  when 
the  Rev.  Messrs.  Kleinschmidt  and  Hahn  arrived  from  the 
Cape.  The  latter  had  been  on  his  road  to  Europe  to  pay  a 
visit  to  his  family,  and  make  some  arrangements  respecting 
the  education  of  his  children.  But  his  heart  bled  for  the 
wretched  condition  of  this  benighted  land,  and,  at  immense 
sacrifice,  he  returned  with  a view  of  endeavoring  once  more 
to  bring  about  a reconciliation  between  the  Namaquas  and 
the  Damaras. 

Next  to  the  love  and  worship  which  we  owe  to  our  Cre- 
ator must  be  ranked  the  love  of  our  own  species.  This  Di- 
vine doctrine  recalls  those  beautiful  lines  by  Leigh  Hunt : 

uAbou  Ben  Adhem  (may  his  tribe  increase!) 

Awoke  one  night  from  a deep  dream  of  peace, 


PHILANTHROPY JONKER  INEXORABLE MR.  BAM.  341 

# 

And  saw,  within  the  moonlight  in  his  room, 

Making  it  rich,  and  like  a lily  in  bloom, 

An  angel  writing  in  a book  of  gold  : 

Exceeding  peace  had  made  Ben  Adhem  bold, 

And  to  the  presence  in  the  room  he  said, 

4 What  writest  thon  ?’  The  vision  raised  its  head, 

And,  with  a look  made  of  all  sweet  accord, 

Answered,  4 The  names  of  those  who  love  the  Lord.’ 

‘And  is  mine  one?’  said  Abou.  ‘Nay,  not  so,’ 

Replied  the  angel.  Abou  spoke  more  low, 

But  cheerly  still ; and  said,  4 1 pray  thee,  then, 

Write  me  as  one  that  loves  his  fellow-men.’ 

The  angel  wrote,  and  vanished.  The  next  night 
It  came  again  with  a great  wakening  light, 

And  showed  the  names  whom  love  of  God  had  bless’d, 

And  lo!  Ben  Adhem’s  name  led  all  the  rest.” 

All  Mr.  Hahn’s  exertions  and  painstakings,  however,  were 
in  vain.  Jonker  was  inexorable.  He  flatly  told  him  there 
was  no  occasion  for  missionaries,  since  they  themselves  were 
quite  capable  of  managing  the  affairs  of  the  country.  This 
proved  the  death-blow  to  the  Damara  mission ; for,  though 
Messrs.  Schoneberg  and  Rath  continued  their  labors  for  some 
time  afterward,  they  were  finally  compelled  to  desist. 

On  leaving  Great  Namaqua-land  the  preceding  year,  I 
placed  two  teams  of  wagon-oxen  under  the  charge  of  my 
friend,  William  Zwartbooi,  to  be  kept  ready  for  emergences. 
I now  lost  no  time  in  sending  people  to  fetch  them  down ; 
but  the  distance  was  great,  and  I could  not  expect  them  for 
several  weeks  to  come.  Through  my  interference,  Mr.  Bam 
kindly  furnished  Mr.  Reid  with  a sufficiency  of  trained  oxen 
for  his  own  conveyance  at  a very  moderate  cost,  which  ena- 
bled him  to  start  for  the  interior  with  scarcely  any  delay. 

While  waiting  for  my  own  cattle,  I busied  myself  with 
arranging  my  baggage,  sketching  plans  for  the  future,  eating 
naras,  and  now  and  then  mounting  my  steed  to  chase  the 
ostrich. 

On  the  9th  of  February  Mr.  Rath  arrived,  and,  seeing  my 


342 


THE  AUTHOR  SHOOTS  A LION. 


dilemma,  kindly  proposed  to  place  some  of  his  oxen  at  my 
disposal  as  far  as  Barmen.  I gratefully  accepted  the  disin- 
terested offer,  and  having  obtained  a few  more  oxen  from  the 
Namaqua  chief  Jacob,  at  Scheppmansdorf,  I prepared  to 
commence  my  journey  with  one  of  the  wagons,  leaving  the 
other  to  follow  as  soon  as  my  cattle  arrived.  Rehobotli 
having  been  appointed  as  the  place  of  rendezvous , I started. 

My  course,  as  on  former  occasions,  lay  by  Tineas,  Onanis, 
and  Tjobis,  places  well  known  to  the  reader.  I saw  a good 
deal  of  game,  but  was  too  much  pressed  for  time  to  stop  and 
shoot.  Until  we  reached  Richterfeldt,  little  or  nothing  of 
interest  occurred.  William  and  Bonfield,  in  rambling  about 
the  hills  one  day,  stumbled  upon  a lion,  and  it  being  the  first 
time  they  had  ever  seen  the  dreaded  beast  in  his  native  state, 
they  became  almost  petrified  with  fear. 

I also  had  an  opportunity  of  shooting  one  of  these  animals. 
While  one  day  pursuing  some  gemsboks,  a lion  unexpectedly 
sprang  out  of  a bush  within  forty  or  fifty  paces  of  me.  The 
brute’s  sudden  appearance  somewhat  startled  me,  but  I had 
so  often  been  balked  in  my  attempts  to  get  a shot  at  lions 
that  I only  hesitated  for  a moment.  Accordingly,  the  lion 
having  turrled  round  to  look  at  me,  I took  a deliberate  aim 
at  his  forehead  and  fired,  and,  as  good  luck  would  have  it, 
with  deadly  effect.  Indeed,  so  accurate  was  my  aim  that  it 
almost  split  his  skull  in  two,  and,  as  a matter  of  course,  killed 
him  on  the  spot. 

My  prize  proved  a full-grown  male,  but  his  hide  was  so 
much  worn  and  torn  that  I did  not  deem  it  worth  the  trouble 
of  preservation. 

Lions  had  been  unusually  numerous  and  daring  during  the 
year.  Mr.  Rath’s  wagon-driver,  Piet,  a mighty  Nimrod,  and 
his  two  foster-sons,  had  killed  upward  of  twenty  in  the 
course  of  a few  months.  And  many  and  wonderful  were 
their  escapes  from  these  animals. 

One  night  the  old  man  was  awakened  by  a peculiar  noise 


piet’s  performance  with  lions.  343 

outside  his  door,  which  was  constructed  so  as  to  shut  in  two 
parts.  The  lower  division  was  closed,  but  the  upper  was 
left  open  on  account  of  the  oppressive  state  of  the  atmos- 
phere. Quietly  taking  up  his  gun,  Piet  stole  softly  to  the 
door,  expecting  to  meet  with  a hyaena,  as  he  knew  that  one 
of  these  beasts  was  in  the  habit  of  harassing  the  goat-kids, 
which,  for  better  security,  he  had  kraaled  against  the  wall 
of  the  house.  His  amazement,  however,  was  great  when, 
instead  of  a hyaena,  a lion  stood  before  him.  Without  losing 
his  presence  of  mind,  he  poked  the  muzzle  of  his  piece  against 
the  animal’s  head  and  blew  out  its  brains. 

Again : Riding  along  one  morning  in  a very  weak  state, 
having  just  recovered  from  a severe  fever,  a lion  suddenly 
rushed  at  him.  The  ox  became  frightened,  and  threw  the 
old  man.  One  of  his  feet  was  caught  in  the  stirrup ; but, 
fortunately,  the  “ veld”  shoe  slipped  off.  “ I know,”  said  the 
veteran  hunter,  “I  was  thrown,  and  that  I got  on  my  legs 
again,  but  in  what  manner  is  quite  a mystery  to  me  this  day. 
I called,  as  loud  as  my  feeble  voice  permitted,  to  my  people 
to  bring  a gun,  the  lion  always  getting  nearer  and  nearer, 
until  he  stood  within  arm’s  length.  I once  or  twice  tried  to 
pull  out  my  pistol  or  my  sword-knife,  which,  as  you  know, 
I usually  carry  about  with  me,  but  in  my  anxiety  I missed 
them.  My  jacket  was  lying  just  in  front  of  me  on  the  ground, 
but  the  brute  had  one  of  his  paws  on  it.  I felt  desperate, 
however,  and,  pulling  it  forcibly  away,  struck  the  lion  on  the 
head,  when  he  grinned  and  growled  terribly,  and  I expected 
every  moment  he  would  tear  me  to  pieces.  At  this  junc- 
ture, my  Damara,  who  fortunately  had  heard  my  cries  of 
distress,  came  running  up  with  my  gun.  Taking  the  piece 
from  the  man,  I fired  at  the  lion,  who  had  retreated  a few 
paces,  where  he  sat  quietly  looking  at  me.  I don’t  know 
whether  I hit  him,  for  what  with  the  sudden  fright,  and 
my  weak  constitution,  I felt  very  unsteady.  Be  that  as  it 
may,  it  had,  at  all  events,  the  effect  of  scaring  him  away, 


344  A LION  GOES  TO  CHURCH MEET  MR.  REID. 

for  at  the  report  of  the  gun  he  instantly  betook  himself  to 
cover.” 

On  another  occasion,  when  the  missionary  wagon  was  on 
its  road  to  Walfisch  Bay,  a lion  sprang  unexpectedly  into 
the  midst  of  the  sleeping  party,  which  was  bivouacking,  at 
the  time,  on  the  banks  of  the  Kubakop  River.  One  of  Piet’s 
sons,  who  was  present,  picked  up  his  gun  from  the  ground ; 
but,  in  order  to  prevent  the  dew  from  injuring  it,  he  had 
wrapped  his  waistcoat  round  the  lock,  and  in  the  hurry  he 
was  unable  to  disengage  the  garment.  Finding,  however, 
that  the  lion  was  just  about  to  lay  hold  of  him,  he  held  out 
the  piece  and  fired  at  random,  but  fortunately  with  deadly 
effect. 

Once  a lion  found  his  way  into  the  church  at  Richterfeldt ! 
The  alarm  being  given,  the  Damaras,  assegai  in  hand,  rush- 
ed to  the  spot,  and,  seizing  him  by  the  tail  and  ears,  dragged 
him  bodily  out  of  the  sacred  edifice.  The  poor  brute  was 
actually  dying  from  starvation,  and  offered  but  a very  feeble 
resistance.  I saw  his  skin. 

At  Barmen  I was  obliged  to  leave  Mr.  Rath’s  cattle ; but, 
by  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Hahn’s  wagon-driver,  who,  on  rea- 
sonable terms,  lent  me  half  a dozen  first-rate  oxen,  I was  able 
to  prosecute  my  journey.  On  arriving  at  Eikhams  I met 
my  friend  Reid,  who  had  been  very  successful  in  the  disposal 
of  his  stock  in  trade.  I saw  Jonker  ; but,  though  he  was 
civil  and  obliging,  the  constant  forfeiture  of  his  word  had  dis- 
gusted me,  and  I felt  compelled  to  treat  him  with  great  cool- 
ness and  reserve. 

Before  leaving  Eikhams,  an  accident  occurred  that  might 
have  ended  seriously.  A half-cast  native  lad,  whom  Eye- 
brecht  had  placed  at  my  disposal,  was  the  occasion  of  it. 
Though  a shrewd  youth,  he  was  cursed  with  a passionate 
temper.  The  Namaquas  had  been  teasing  him  for  some  time, 
when,  suddenly  unfolding  his  clasp-knife,  he  threatened  to 
stab  the  nearest  man,  but  was  quickly  deprived  of  the  deadly 


THE  AUTHOR  SAVES  KAMAPYU’S  LIFE.  345 

instrument.  His  blood  was  up,  however,  and,  seeing  my  rifle 
standing  against  the  wall  of  the  old  church,  he  made  a rush 
for  it,  and  was  about  to  discharge  the  contents  into  one  of 
his  tormentors,  when,  throwing  myself  hurriedly  between  the 
contending  parties,  I fortunately  prevented  the  catastrophe. 
Being  now  convinced  that  a storm  was  brewing,  I quickly 
pushed  the  boy  through  the  door  of  the  building,  and  placed 
myself  resolutely  at  the  entrance. 

Notwithstanding  the  Namaquas  would  not  hesitate  to  shoot 
any  of  their  slaves  for  the  smallest  olfense,  they  consider  such 
an  act  on  the  part  of  one  of  the  subjected  race  against  his 
master  to  be  of  so  atrocious  a character  that  they  would  un- 
doubtedly have  torn  the  lad  to  pieces  had  I not  been  present. 
As  it  was,  they  rose  to  a man,  and  swore  they  would  have 
his  life.  The  boy,  on  his  part,  instead  of  betraying  any  symp- 
toms of  fear,  was  foaming  with  rage,  and,  had  I permitted 
it,  would  unhesitatingly  have  attacked  the  whole  party. 

Finding  that  I was  determined  to  foil  them  of  their  vic- 
tim, they  turned  their  ire  on  me.  I quietly  told  them  that 
the  lad  was  in  my  employ,  and  that,  if  they  left  him  alone,  I 
would  duly  investigate  the  matter,  and,  should  I find  him 
guilty,  would  punish  him  severely;  but,  if  they  chose  to 
take  the  law  into  their  own  hands,  they  must  look  to  the 
consequences,  for  they  should  only  pass  to  the  youth  over  my 
body.  This  somewhat  cooled  their  rage,  and,  after  much 
parleying,  the  matter  was  finally  and  peaceably  settled. 

Many  a time  since  has  the  same  boy,  by  the  violence  of  his 
temper,  placed  me  and  himself  in  the  most  critical  positions, 
and  I often  marveled  that  he  was  not  killed.  At  last  he  re- 
ceived a severe  lesson.  Having  one  day  coquetted  with  some 
Kalahari  women,  the  indignant  husband  or  parent  sent  him 
off  with  two  poisoned  arrows,  one  of  which  pierced  his  nose, 
and  the  other  transfixed  his  arm.  For  a short  time  he  suf- 
fered agonies,  but  escaped  with  his  life. 

Excepting  his  passionate  temper,  he  was  an  excellent  fel- 
P 2 


346 


VISITS  CORNELIUS CATTLE-TRADE. 


low — honest,  willing,  obliging,  industrious,  enduring,  but, 
above  all,  an  inimitable  “tracker.”  Indeed,  in  this  respect 
he  surpassed  the  Bushmen.  Many  a wxary  mile  have  I trod- 
den under  his  able  guidance,  and  many  a wild  beast  have  I 
laid  low  by  his  assistance.  His  sight  was  also  remarkable. 
I rather  pride  myself  on  my  experience  as  a woodsman,  and 
usually  proved  a match  for  the  natives ; but  this  youth  beat 
me  hollow.  My  men  called  him  Kamapyu — a most  appro- 
priate name,  since  it  signified  hot  water.  I was  at  last  com- 
pelled to  part  with  him,  which  I did  with  considerable  re- 
luctance. I rewarded  his  services,  which  had  proved  inval- 
uable to  me,  by  a variety  of  things,  besides  sufficient  cattle  to 
buy  him  half  a dozen  wives,  an  acquisition  which,  next  to 
carnivorous  food,  is  the  greatest  bliss  of  a savage. 

After  my  departure  from  Jonker’s  I directed  my  steps  to- 
ward Cornelius.  On  taking  leave  of  this  chief  the  previous 
year,  I promised  forthwith  to  return  with  a supply  of  goods, 
provided  he  and  his  people  behaved  themselves  satisfactorily. 
In  order  to  save  time,  I dispatched  a messenger  to  acquaint 
him  with  my  approach,  as  also  to  request  him  to  call  his 
tribe  together,  and  urge  them  to  bring  such  cattle  as  they  de- 
sired to  dispose  of.  My  wish  was  attended  to  ; for,  on  arriv- 
ing at  the  werft,  I found  about  two  hundred  head  of  cattle 
waiting  for  me,  which,  after  some  little  bargaining,  I secured 
in  the  course  of  two  days.  I had  the  misfortune,  however, 
to  lose  a small  portion  of  this  number,  which  broke  through 
the  kraal  in  the  night,  and  were  never  again  heard  of.  I 
strongly  suspect  they  were  stolen  by  the  original  owners.  I 
had  also  the  mishap  to  get  my  telescope  spoiled.  Being 
probably  smitten  by  the  lustre  of  the  metal,  the  mischievous 
Namaqua  lads  extracted  the  object-glass,  which  could  be  of 
no  earthly  use  to  them  except  as  an  ornament. 

About  this  time  two  of  my  horses  died  of  the  “ horse-sick- 
ness.” One  still  remained,  and,  though  a remarkably  fleet 
animal,  was  so  shy  as  to  be  useless  as  a hunter.  He  was  the 


A Mil  A L A PARTY  OF  GRIQUAS. 


347 


same  that  ran  away  with  me  at  Cape-Town.  The  natives 
offered  to  buy  him  at  a great  price,  but  I had  made  up  my 
mind  that,  rather  than  go  without  him,  I would  run  the  risk 
of  losing  him  by  the  fearful  distemper  in  question.  How- 
ever, he  lived  to  see  the  Lake,  where  I finally  disposed  of 
him. 

Some  days  after  my  arrival  at  Cornelius’s  werft,  my  old 
friend  Amral  made  his  appearance.  He  was  accompanied 
by  a party  of  Griquas,*  from  whom  I learned  much  to  in- 
terest me. 

In  the  hope  of  meeting  with  elephants,  they  had  crossed 
the  Kalahari  direct  from  their  own  country,  but  had  suffer- 
ed great  privations ; for,  though  from  all  appearances  water 
must  have  been  abundant  in  the  rainy  season,  the  desert  was 
fearfully  dry  when  they  passed  through  it.  They  had  occa- 
sionally been  as  much  as  nine  consecutive  days  without  a 
drop  of  water,  but  sustained  their  own  lives  and  those  of 
their  quadrupeds  by  sucking  and  eating  the  wild  gourd, 
which  fortunately  covered  the  waste  in  great  abundance. 
To  lessen  the  bitterness  of  the  juice,  they  first  cooked  or 
roasted  the  fruit. 

The  party,  which  consisted  of  no  less  than  forty-seven 
wagons,  had  penetrated  to  within  a few  days  of  the  Lake 
Ngami,  but  not  finding  elephants,  they  retraced  their  steps. 
A certain  portion  of  the  country  they  had  visited  was  infest- 
ed by  the  “ tsetse,”  by  whose  poisonous  bites  they  had  lost 
some  of  the  cattle  and  horses.  The  66  horse-sickness”  also 
prevailed. 

I engaged  as  Bechuana  interpreter  one  of  the  Griquas, 
who  had  visited  the  lake  by  the  ordinary  route  ( via  Kuru- 
man).  He  spoke  of  the  inhabitants  as  civil  and  hospitable, 
but  warned  me  against  the  jDutch  farmers,  shodld  I fall  in 
with  any.  I was  well  aware  of  their  troublesome  disposi- 

* Descendants  of  Dutch  farmers  and  Hottentot  women,  and  hence 
also  called  Bastards. 


348 


ARRIVAL  AT  REHOBOTH TANS  MOUNTAIN. 


tion,  but,  of  course,  made  due  allowance  for  the  exaggera- 
tions of  an  individual  belonging  to  a nation  who  are  sworn 
enemies  to  the  Boers.  The  Griquas  supposed  that  Ngami 
might  be  reached  in  nine  days  from  Tunobis  (the  farthest 
point  to  the  eastward  reached  by  Mr.  Galton  about  a year 
and  a half  ago),  and  said  that  two  or  three  fountains  existed 
on  the  road. 

On  the  17th  of  March  I found  myself  at  Behoboth,  hav- 
ing, in  little  more  than  a month,  with  borrowed  oxen,  pass- 
ed over  several  hundred  miles  of  country,  and  obtained  by 
barter  about  three  hundred  head  of  cattle.  I felt  rather 
proud  of  the  performance.  My  other  wagons,  which  I had 
ordered  to  take  the  Kuisip  route,  had  not  yet  arrived.  I 
felt  disappointed,  and  was  unable  to  account  for  the  delay, 
since  want  of  oxen  could  not  have  been  the  cause,  the  mis- 
sionaries having  kindly  and  promptly  sent  me  more  than  one 
team.  Indeed,  Onesimus  had  started  with  upward  of  forty 
well-trained  beasts  several  weeks  previously  to  my  reaching 
the  station,  and  I began  to  fear  that  some  evil  had  befallen 
them. 

While  abiding  their  forthcoming,  I busied  myself  in  map- 
ping the  country  and  exploring  the  neighborhood.  Close  to 
the  station  rose  some  conspicuous  masses  of  granite  (on  Mr. 
Galton’s  map  erroneously  termed  limestone),  interspersed 
with  large  quantities  of  glittering  quartz.  From  the  high- 
est peak  I obtained  a fine  and  extensive  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  The  beautiful  table-mountain  of  Tans, 
visible  from  many  points,  stood  out  in  bold  relief  against  the 
western  horizon.  In  a clear  atmosphere  it  may  be  distin- 
guished at  an  immense  distance.  Thus  it  can  be  discerned 
at  Onanis,  from  the  top  of  “ Wit-water”  range,  at  Behoboth, 
and  even  considerably  to  the  south  on  the  Fish  Biver. 

Sir  James  Alexander,  in  his  journey  to  Walfisch  Bay  from 
the  Orange  Biver,  climbed  Tans  Mountain,  and  considered 
its  elevation  to  be  about  4000  feet,  but  he  does  not  say 


COPPER  ORE A FALSE  FRIEND JONATHAN  AFRIKA.  349 

whether  above  the  plain  or  the  level  of  the  sea.  Be  that  as 
it  may,  however,  I do  not  think  either  estimation  correct. 
Mr.  Vollmer,  who  once,  with  great  labor,  crossed  the  table 
of  Tans  in  his  own  wagon,  informed  me  that  its  western  as- 
pect, or  the  side  facing  the  Kuisip,  is  very  steep  and  high, 
but  the  eastern  slope  is  gradual,  and  not  a great  deal  elevated 
above  the  plain. 

The  rocks  all  about  Rehoboth  are  strongly  impregnated 
with  copper,  and  specimens  of  the  ore  of  a very  productive 
quality  (forty  to  ninety  per  cent.)  are  occasionally  found.  I 
presented  Mr.  Reid  with  several  pieces,  giving  him  permission 
to  use  them  as  he  thought  fit.  I advised  him,  however,  to 
get  them  analyzed  by  Mr.  Schmieterleuv,  whom  I knew  to 
be  a straightforward  man;  but  he  preferred  to  subject  them 

to  his  own  friend,  Dr.  G . After  about  a year’s  absence 

I met  Mr.  Reid  again,  and  on  asking  him  what  advantage 
he  had  derived  from  the  copper  I gave  to  him,  he  replied, 

“ None  whatever.  Dr.  G declared  the  specimens  were 

worthless.”  Yet  not  long  afterward  he  went  into  partner- 
ship with  a certain  merchant  on  the  strength  of  these  identi- 
cal specimens.  So  much  for  friendship ! 

Captain  Zwartbooi’s  people  had  started  off  to  Damara-land 
under  pretext  of  looking  out  for  fountains,  but  the  sequel 
proved  it  was  solely  with  a view  of  stealing  cattle.  The  ex- 
ample set  them  by  Jonker,  Cornelius,  and  others,  was  too 
strong  to  be  longer  withstood. 

One  evening  Jonathan  Afrika  presented  himself  at  the  sta- 
tion. I had  already,  at  Barmen,  seen  this  man,  who  was  of 
Bechuana  extraction,  but  had  been  brought  up  among  civil- 
ized people.  A shrewder  fellow  I never  came  across.  He 
bore  an  excellent  character  throughout  the  country.  When 

he  first  arrived  he  accompanied  Mr.  M , the  trader,  in 

whose  service  he  suffered  much  privation. 

Jonathan,  who  soon  afterward  entered  into  my  service,  was 
a man  of  great  courage  and  an  excellent  marksman.  He 


350 


A NIMROD A LION’S  SUPPER. 


had  shared  many  a hunting  exploit  with  his  friend  Hans,  and 
had  made  numerous  lions  bite  the  dust. 

On  one  occasion,  Jonathan  was  riding  leisurely  along,  when 
suddenly,  a short  distance  in  advance  of  him,  a fine  lion  rush- 
ed out  of  the  bushes.  Throwing  himself  quickly  off  the  ox, 
he  gave  chase  to  the  beast,  calling  out  loudly,  “Nay,  stop 
a little.  To-day  we  must,  indeed,  talk  with  each  other.” 
Whether  the  lion  thought  he  could  not  escape,  or  that  he 
considered  his  dignity  concerned,  I shall  not  presume  to  say ; 
but,  at  all  events,  he  stopped  to  look  at  his  pursuer.  No 
sooner,  however,  had  he  turned  his  head,  than  a well-directed 
ball  entered  one  of  his  eyes,  and  laid  him  low  in  an  instant. 

After  waiting  at  Eehoboth  for  about  a week,  I had  the 
satisfaction  to  see  my  men  and  wagon  arrive  in  safety.  The 
cause  of  the  delay  had  been  the  nature  of  the  road,  the  great- 
er part  of  wThich  consisted  of  a succession  of  sand-ridges,  as 
bad  as  those  at  Scheppmansdorf.  The  oxen  were  good,  and 
more  than  sufficient  to  do  the  work ; but,  from  want  of  yokes, 
they  could  only  make  use  of  twelve  at  a time. 

The  men  had  also  been  much  plagued  by  lions.  One  fine 
moonlight  night,  just  as  they  had  unyoked  at  the  base  of  a 
small  sand-hill,  one  of  these  animals  appeared  immediately 
above.  After  having  eyed  them  for  a moment,  he  dashed  in 
among  the  goats,  and,  before  the  men  could  get  their  guns  in 
order,  he  was  out  of  harm’s  way  with  one  of  the  quadrupeds. 

At  another  time,  a lion  made  a rush  at  the  cattle  when  at 
pasture,  who  fled  precipitately  into  a defile,  where,  not  find- 
ing an  outlet,  they  faced  about  and  confronted  their  fierce  an- 
tagonist. The  beast  evidently  dreaded  the  forest  of  bristling 
horns ; for,  after  having  paced  to  and  fro  at  the  entrance  of 
the  pass  the  best  part  of  the  night,  keeping  cattle  and  men  in 
great  tribulation  by  his  savage  growls,  he  slunk  off  toward 
morning. 


DISPATCH  CATTLE  TO  THE  CAPE. 


351 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Dispatch  Cattle  to  the  Cape. — Terrible  Thunder-storm. — Trees  struck 
by  Lightning.— The  Nosop  Biver. — A Comet. — The  Author  nearly 
poisoned. — Some  of  the  Men  abscond  ; they  return  to  their  Duty. — * 
Babel-like  confusion  of  Tongues. — Game  abundant. — Author  shoots 
a Giraffe. — Meet  Bushmen. — Unsuccessful  Elephant-hunt. — Suffer- 
ings from  Hunger. — Tunobis. — Game  scarce. — Author  and  Steed 
entrapped. — Pitfalls. — The  Men  turn  sulky. — Preparations  for  de- 
parture from  Tunobis. — Vicious  Pack-oxen. — Consequences  of  ex- 
cessive Fatigue. — The  Jackal’s  handiwork. — Tracks  of  Elephants. 
— More  Pitfalls. — Loss  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  Lion  and  the  Swedish 
Cross. — Beach  Ghanze. 

On  the  1st  of  April  I dispatched  my  cattle  (three  hundred 
and  sixty  in  number)  to  the  Cape,  in  charge  of  old  Piet  and 
Thomas  Gibbons,  William,  and  two  or  three  Damaras.  The 
first-mentioned  was  well  accustomed  to  a large  drove  of  oxen, 
and  was  the  only  one  of  the  party  in  whom  I had  any  con- 
fidence. Under  such  circumstances,  it  was  perhaps  natural 
that  I should  feel  some  misgivings  about  their  safe  arrival. 
But  I placed  my  trust  in  that  same  Providence  who  had 
hitherto  watched  over  the  lonely  stranger,  firm  in  the  con- 
viction that  whatever  befell  me  or  my  property  (both  of 
which  I was  about  to  risk  in  the  cause  of  humanity  and 
civilization)  would  be  for  the  best. 

Fearing  from  experience  that  wagons  would  be  only  an 
incumbrance,  and  impede  the  dispatch,  if  not  defeat  the 
success  of  my  expedition  to  the  Ngami,  I parted  with  them. 
As  I knew,  however,  that  the  road  as  far  as  Tunobis  was 
practicable  for  wheel  carriages,  I borrowed  an  old  battered 
vehicle  for  the  occasion,  intending  to  send  it  back  with  Eye- 
brecht.  Thence  I purposed  pursuing  the  journey  with  pack- 
and-ride  oxen.  This,  though  the  most  eligible  plan,  subjects 


352 


TERRIBLE  THUNDER-STORM. 


the  traveler  to  much  hardship  and  inconvenience,  from  ex- 
posure to  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  and  the  very  small 
stock  of  provisions,  &c.,  that  can  be  conveyed. 

Up  to  this  period  the  men  had  worked  well  and  willingly ; 
but  the  day  on  which  I bade  farewell  to  the  hospitable  mis- 
sionary roof  (5th  of  April)  Timbo  became  sulky,  and  ex- 
pressed a wish  to  return  to  the  Cape,  from  which  I had  some 
difficulty  in  persuading  him.  It  was  the  first  time  I had 
real  cause  for  being  dissatisfied  with  the  man,  but  not  the 
last. 

Four  days  after  this  little  difficulty  was  got  over,  it  came 
on  to  rain  so  tremendously  that  it  seemed  as  if  we  were 
going  to  have  another  deluge.  For  three  days  and  as  many 
nights  it  continued  to  pour  down  with  scarcely  any  inter- 
mission. The  scriptural  expression,  “ The  windows  of  heaven 
were  opened,”  might  indeed  have  been  here  realized.  Dur- 
ing the  last  twelve  hours  the  thunder  and  lightning  were 
truly  appalling,  and  perfectly  stunned  and  blinded  us.  Peal 
after  peal,  flash  after  flash,  followed  in  rapid  succession,  re- 
echoed and  reflected  from  a hundred  peaks.  Trees  were 
broken  short  off  or  torn  up  by  the  roots  by  the  violence  of 
the  wind. 

“The  clouds, 

From  many  a horrid  rift,  abortive  pour’d 
Fierce  rain  with  lightning  mix’d,  water  with  fire 
In  ruin  reconciled ; nor  slept  the  winds 
Within  their  stony  caves,  but  rush’d  abroad 
From  the  four  hinges  of  the  world,  and  fell 
On  the  vexed  wilderness,  whose  tallest  pines 
(Though  rooted  deep  as  high)  and  sturdiest  oaks 
Bow’d  their  stiff  necks,  loaden  with  stormy  blast 
Or  torn  up  sheer.” 

The  men’s  tent,  which  was  secured  with  numerous  strong 
straps  to  the  side  of  the  wagon,  was  carried  bodily  away, 
and  men  and  quadrupeds  were  literally  swimming  in  the  tor- 
rent, which,  rushing  down  with  irresistible  fury  from  the 


ITS  EFFECTS— GAME  BONES NOSOP  RIVER.  353 

slopes  of  the  hills,  swept  over  our  camping-ground.  The 
poor  dogs  howled  from  fear  and  suffering.  Every  moment  I 
expected  to  see  the  wagon  capsized  by  the  blast,  or,  what 
was  worse,  struck  by  lightning,  as  we  had  somewhat  incau- 
tiously encamped  under  a kameel-doorn  boom,  which  is  one 
of  the  most  certain  of  conductors.  Indeed,  nearly  two  thirds 
of  the  full-grown  trees  of  this  kind  are  found  splintered  by 
the  electric  fluid. 

So  completely  did  this  deluge  saturate  and  swamp  the  lo- 
cality, that  for  two  days  after  the  rains  had  ceased  we  were 
unable  to  move ; yet  such  is  the  partial  operation  even  of 
such  thunder-storms  as  we  had  just  endured,  that,  after  trav- 
eling a day  or  two  farther  to  the  eastward,  we  all  but  per- 
ished from  thirst,  and  the  vegetation  was  parched  and  sun- 
burnt ! 

Our  route  lay  through  a country  similar  in  character  to 
that  traveled  over  by  Mr.  Galton  and  myself  about  a year 
and  a half  previously  in  our  journey  to  the  eastward,  name- 
ly, large  sandy  plains,  richly  covered  with  fine  grass  and 
brushwood,  with  occasional  clusters  of  kameel- thorn-trees. 
Water  was  very  scarce. 

From  the  number  of  bleached  bones  of  rhinoceroses,  gi- 
raffes, and  other  wild  beasts  scattered  about,  it  was  evident 
that  game  had  at  one  time  been  abundant  in  these  parts  ; but 
the  introduction  of  fire-arms  among  the  Namaquas  had  ei- 
ther put  an  end  to  the  animals,  or  scared  them  away  to  less 
peopled  haunts.  With  the  exception  of  hyaenas  and  jackals, 
beasts  of  any  size  were  scarce. 

In  about  a fortnight  we  reached  the  Nosop  Fiver,  near  to 
its  junction  with  the  Black  Nosop.  The  two  streams,  when 
united,  flow  under  the  common  name  of  Nosop ; and,  though 
nothing  is  known  of  the  course  of  this  river  three  days  south 
of  Wesley  Yale,  it  is  believed  ultimately  to  make  its  way 
to  the  Orange  Fiver.  Indeed,  the  fact  of  fish  having  been 
found  in  the  pools  at  Elephant  Fountain  of  similar  kind  to 


354 


A HAPPY  FAMILY COMET SICKNESS. 


those  inhabiting  the  Garieb  (the  Orange)  River  strengthens 
the  supposition. 

I had  ordered  Eyebrecht  to  meet  me  on  the  Nosop,  and  I 
found  him  in  company  with  a handsome  Griqua  girl,  whom 
he  had  married  according  to  the  fashion  of  the  Namaquas. 
The  union  bade  fair  to  be  a fruitful  one,  for  the  happy  couple 
were  already  blessed  with  an  infant.  The  face  of  the  tawny  - 
complexioned  husband  was  beaming  with  paternal  pride  and 
satisfaction.  He  was  living  with  his  father-in-law  (Jan 
Zaal),  a great  hunter,  with  whom  I also  took  up  my  quarters 
for  a short  time.  The  people  were  exceedingly  kind  to  me, 
and  remarkably  clean  and  neat  in  all  their  household  ar- 
rangements. Besides,  I enjoyed  an  unlimited  supply  of  sweet 
and  sour  milk,  both  of  which  I greatly  relished. 

During  my  stay  on  the  Nosop  I observed  for  several  nights 
a remarkable  comet.  On  the  last  of  April,  about  eight 
o’clock  in  the  evening,  when  about  to  set,  the  latitude  being 
23°  S.,  it  bore  298°  by  compass. 

Having  engaged  my  host’s  son,  Klaas  Zaal,  to  accompany 
me  as  a wagon-driver  as  far  as  Tunobis,  whence  he  and  Eye- 
brecht were  to  return,  I was  again  on  the  move  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  4th  of  May.  For  a day  or  two  we  followed  the 
right  bank  of  the  White  Nosop,  and  then  crossed  over  to  the 
other  branch,  where,  in  order  to  explore  the  road  before  us, 
we  rested  a couple  of  days. 

Having  proceeded  one  morning  in  search  of  game,  I be- 
came very  hungry,  and,  observing  an  inviting  bean-looking 
fruit,  I ate  greedily  of  it,  but  it  nearly  cost  me  my  life.  I 
was  seized  with  giddiness,  vomiting,  and  racking  pains,  and 
arrived  in  a staggering  and  bewildered  state  at  our  camp, 
completely  exhausted.  I then  learned  that  the  pulse  I had 
eaten  was,  in  a raw  state,  highly  deleterious,  but  if  cooked, 
could  not  alone  be  eaten  with  impunity,  but  was  really  bene- 
ficial. 

Almost  from  my  first  entrance  into  the  country,  thinking 


SOME  OF  THE  SERVANTS  ABSCOND INTERPRETERS.  355 

that  I might  one  day  be  obliged  to  live  on  Bushman  diet,  I 
partook  eagerly  of  every  root,  bulb,  berry,  &c.,  that  grew  wild 
about  the  country,  but  always  (with  the  exception  of  the 
above  instance)  took  the  precaution  first  to  ascertain  from  the 
natives  its  properties.  I derived  benefit  from  this  plan ; for, 
when  ordinary  food  failed  me,  I could  at  all  events  contrive 
to  exist  for  a time  on  this  rude  fare. 

On  returning  one  day  to  the  camp  from  a fatiguing  hunt, 
I found  that  all  my  Damaras  had  absconded.  I was  aston- 
ished and  vexed  beyond  measure,  for  the  greater  part  had 
been  long  in  my  employ,  and  had  proved  themselves  very 
faithful.  One  of  them  had,  only  the  day  previously,  been 
telling  me  that,  unless  I drove  him  forcibly  away,  he  would 
never  abandon  me,  but  would  share  my  fortune,  whether  good 
or  bad.  I soon  discovered  that  Timbo  had  caused  the  de- 
fection. I had  appointed  him  head  man  of  the  servants ; but 
he  being  dark-complexioned,  the  Damaras  did  not  like  to  be 
ruled  by  one  so  much  resembling  themselves. 

In  the  first  burst  of  anger  I declared  I would  do  without 
them,  and  that  I would  punish  them  severely  on  my  return. 
A moment’s  reflection,  however,  convinced  me  that,  both  for 
my  own  sake,  and  by  way  of  example  for  the  remainder  of 
the  men,  it  was  necessary,  if  possible,  to  bring  them  back  to 
their  duty.  Eyebrecht  was  accordingly  dispatched  on  this 
errand.  After  several  days’  absence  he  returned  with  the 
runaways,  and  as  they  looked  penitent,  I thought  it  best  to 
pass  the  offense  quietly  over,  and  say  nothing. 

At  Twass,  the  head-quarters  of  Lambert,  Amral’s  eldest 
son — a chief  of  even  greater  importance  than  his  father — I 
was  joined  by  Piet,' the  Griqua,  who  was  to  accompany  me 
to  the  Lake  in  the  capacity  of  interpreter.  He  knew  the 
Bechuana  language  tolerably  well,  and,  as  a matter  of  course, 
spoke  Dutch  fluently.  Onesimus  also  knew  a smattering  of 
this  last  tongue,  and  was  perfect  in  the  Damara  and  Nama- 
qua.  Louis  was  pretty  well  versed  in  Portuguese  and  the 


356 


NEW  ROUTE EYEBRECHT  UNHORSED. 


different  dialects  of  the  countries  bordering  upon  the  settle- 
ments about  the  Mozambique  Channel.  Personally,  I could 
make  myself  understood  in  more  than  one  European  lan- 
guage ; and  this  Babel-like  confusion  was  completed  by  Tim- 
bo’s  patois . 

The  preceding  year,  when  our  steps  were  pointed  in  the 
same  direction  as  at  present,  we  traveled  on  the  summit  of 
the  low  range  of  hills  which  take  their  rise  near  to  Twass, 
extending  eastward.  We  were  then  on  saddle-oxen;  but, 
from  what  we  saw  of  the  country,  we  deemed  it  nearly  im- 
practicable for  wagons.  I therefore  determined  to  strike 
through  the  woods  at  the  base  of  the  hills  in  question,  or 
along  the  valley  intervening  between  them  and  another 
mountain  range  running  in  the  same  direction.  The  soil 
proved  exceedingly  soft  and  yielding,  and  the  bushes  harass- 
ing ; yet  this  new  route  was  preferable  to  the  other. 

We  saw  a good  deal  of  game,  chiefly  of  the  larger  kinds ; 
but  the  animals  were  wary,  and  I shot  badly.  My  horse 
was  so  unsteady  as  to  be  of  little  or  no  use.  His  speed  was 
great ; he  was  a match  for  the  swiftest  antelope ; but  when 
I fired  from  his  back,  he  was  very  apt  to  start  on  one  side. 
If  his  rider,  at  such  times,  was  not  on  his  guard,  the  chances 
were  in  favor  of  his  being  dismounted.  One  day  Eyebrecht 
begged  eagerly  to  be  allowed  to  try  his  hand  on  the  giraffes, 
which  abounded  in  this  locality.  His  request  was  granted, 
and  I lent  him  my  horse,  though  we  well  knew  what  would 
be  the  result.  After  nearly  a whole  day’s  absence,  he  re- 
turned, when  the  men  hailed  him  with  shouts  of  laughter,  as 
his  appearance  too  plainly  indicated  his  misfortunes.  But, 
notwithstanding  his  flushed  face  and  torn  and  soiled  dress, 
he  stoutly  denied  having  been  thrown.  It  so  happened,  how- 
ever, that  the  very  next  day  we  passed  a spot  where  he  had 
been  chasing  a herd  of  giraffes,  and  where  we  could  distinct- 
ly see  the  marks  of  how  the  scared  horse  had  been  dragging 
Eyebrecht  along  the  ground  for  a considerable  distance. 


A FEAST  AND  A PAST UNSUCCESSFUL  ELEPHANT-HUNT.  357 

On  arriving  at  Elephant  Kloof  we  had  better  success. 
My  first  prize  consisted  of  a magnificent  giraffe,  which 
dropped  dead  to  the  first  shot — the  only  instance  I recol- 
lected of  killing  this  animal  outright  with  a single  bullet.  I 
never  before  or  since  (excepting,  perhaps,  a cow-elephant) 
saw  so  fat  an  animal.  The  flesh  was  delicious,  and  I thought 
my  men  would  kill  themselves  by  gorging.  Indeed,  Bonfield 
became  seriously  ill,  and  for  a whole  week  was  unable  to 
take  nourishment  of  any  description,  not  even  coffee.  Ev- 
ery thing  he  tried  to  swallow  was  instantly  rejected.  At  one 
time  I became  apprehensive  for  his  safety.  My  Griqua  guide 
also  got  indisposed  from  feeding  too  heartily  on  an  oily  os- 
trich. 

From  the  midst  of  abundance  we  were,  or  rather  I was, 
soon  reduced  to  the  other  extreme.  When  half  way  to  Ot- 
jombinde  we  encountered  some  Bushmen,  who  persuaded  me 
to  go  in  search  of  elephants,  which  they  said  abounded  at  no 
great  distance.  A person  might  visit  the  place  they  frequent- 
ed, and  come  back  the  same  day.  Having  hastily  made  a 
few  arrangements,  I set  out,  but,  foolishly  relying  on  their 
statements,  provided  myself  with  only  one  small  slice  of  raw 
flesh,  which,  after  a while,  in  the  full  anticipation  of  a quick 
and  successful  return,  I gave  to  the  half-starved  “ children 
of  the  desert.”  I was  sadly  out  of  reckoning,  however,  for, 
instead  of  it  being  merely  a few  hours  to  the  water  in  ques- 
tion, we  traveled  a whole  day  at  a brisk  pace  before  reaching 
our  destination. 

We  were  now  at  the  beginning  of  the  cold  season,  and  the 
nights  had  already  attained  a very  low  temperature.  The 
day  had  been  oppressively  hot,  we  had  journeyed  rapidly, 
and,  in  the  hurry,  I had  come  away  without  my  coat.  As 
evening  set  in  I felt  a deadly  chill  stealing  over  me,  and 
though  we  found  fuel,  I deemed  it  necessary  to  do  with  as 
little  fire  as  possible,  for  fear  of  alarming  the  elephants,  should 
they  make  their  appearance.  Thrusting  my  head  into  a bush, 


358 


SUFFERINGS  FROM  HUNGER. 


and  bundling  the  rest  of  my  body  in  as  small  a compass  as 
was  possible,  I spent  a long  and  comfortless  night. 

At  break  of  day  we  were  stirring.  On  arriving  at  the  wa- 
ter, which  was  not  far  distant  from  our  bivouac,  we  had  the 
satisfaction  to  discover  the  fresh  tracks  of  elephants,  but  out 
of  the  troop  that  had  visited  the  place  there  was  only  one 
bull.  His  tracks  were  of  course  selected  in  preference  to  the 
rest,  but,  though  we  followed  them  perseveringly  till  near 
sunset,  all  our  endeavors  to  come  up  with  the  animal  proved 
vain. 

Hungry,  disheartened,  and  exhausted,  we  retraced  our  steps 
to  the  bivouac,  where  we  spent  another  still  more  cheerless 
night.  Two  days  had  now  elapsed  without  my  having  tasted 
a morsel  of  food,  nor  did  I obtain  any  until  I reached  my  own 
people  at  the  expiration  of  the  third  day.* 

During  the  last  twelve  hours,  I am  free  to  confess,  I was 
almost  ravenous  enough  to  eat  my  shoe-soles,  and  probably 
might  have  done  so  had  time  and  opportunity  permitted  to 
boil  them  down  to  a jelly.  Contrary  to  custom,  the  field  we 
had  traversed  was  destitute  of  eatables  of  any  sort.  Once, 
indeed,  I observed  a small  antelope,  but  the  animal  only  seem- 
ed to  mock  our  sufferings,  for,  before  I could  level  my  piece, 
he  vanished.  Seeing  the  Bushmen  try  to  appease  their  hun- 
ger with  a bitter  woody  substance,  I could  not  resist  the 
temptation  to  taste  it,  though  warned  of  the  consequences ; 
but  scarcely  had  I masticated  the  first  mouthful  before  I 
was  seized  with  tormenting  nausea  and  sickness. 

From  our  great  success  on  a former  occasion  at  Tunobis, 
I expected  to  find  full  employment  for  my  rifle  on  my  ar- 
rival there.  But,  alas  ! now  that  we  stood  so  much  in  need 
of  animal  food,  not  a wild  beast  was  to  be  seen.  At  first, 

* On  accidentally  mentioning  my  fast  to  Captain  Sturt,  the  distin- 
guished Australian  traveler,  he  assured  me  it  was  a mere  trifle  to  what 
he  himself  had  once  suffered,  having  been  six  and  a half  consecutive 
days  without  nourishment  of  any  kind  ! 


THE  GUNS  ALL  BEWITCHED A DILEMMA. 


359 


one  might  almost  be  led  to  imagine  that  the  amazing  num- 
ber of  animals  congregated  here  less  than  two  years  before 
must  be  either  killed  or  driven  altogether  away  from  the  lo- 
cality; but  this  was  not  the  case.  Water  was  still  to  be 
found  in  the  vleys  and  pools  at  some  distance,  and,  until 
these  were  exhausted,  wild  animals  were  little  likely  to  visit 
a spot  where  they  were  subject  to  constant  persecution. 

One  or  two  rhinoceroses,  however,  occasionally  visited  the 
fountains,  as  appeared  by  their  tracks.  These  I determined 
to  watch,  while  I dispersed  my  men  over  the  adjoining  coun- 
try in  search  of  game.  One  night  a huge  animal  came  wad- 
dling along,  but,  though  I lodged  a ball  in  its  body,  it  was  to 
no  purpose.  The  men  were  equally  unsuccessful,  and  re- 
turned, after  several  days’  absence,  half  starved,  and,  conse- 
quently, as  ravenous  as  wolves.  They  had  encountered  sev- 
eral rhinoceroses,  zebras,  &c.,  but  they  only  wounded  or 
mangled  the  poor  beasts.  It  seemed  as  if  every  gun,  mine 
included,  had  been  bewitched. 

Tunobis,  as  often  stated  in  the  preceding  pages,  was  the 
farthest  easterly  point  which  Galton  and  myself  had  attain- 
ed in  our  journey  toward  the  Ngami.  Every  inch  of  the 
ground  ahead  was  now  unknown  to  Europeans  at  least. 
The  Bushmen,  it  is  true,  had  furiyshed  us  with  some  infor- 
mation, but  it  was  either  too  vague  to  be  relied  upon,  or  not 
applicable  to  the  course  I intended  to  pursue.  Knowing 
nearly  the  position  of  the  Lake,  I was  anxious  to  take  as 
straight  a line  as  possible  ; but,  on  consulting  the  few  natives 
hereabout,  they  declared  that,  were  I to  do  so,  it  would  be 
certain  destruction  to  myself  and  cattle,  inasmuch  as  the 
“ field”  in  that  direction  was  one  howling  wilderness,  totally 
destitute  of  water.  By  traveling  southward,  however,  for  a 
few  stages  along  the  sandy  and  dry  water-course  of  Otjom- 
binde,  I should,  they  said,  run  no  risk.  I was  quite  at  a loss 
to  know  how  far  I could  depend  on  their  information ; but 
Piet,  the  interpreter,  who  had  crossed  the  Kalahari  in  the  be- 


360 


THE  PITFALL. 


ginning  of  the  rainy  season,  having  corroborated  their  story, 
I no  longer  hesitated  to  follow  their  advice. 

Before  finally  quitting  Tunobis,  an  incident  occurred  which 
bade  fair  to  finish  my  career  in  this  world.  Cantering  along 
one  day  in  the  bed  of  the  River  Otjombinde,  with  a view  of 
ascertaining  its  course,  I all  at  once  found  myself  on  the  very 
verge  of  a pitfall ! but  it  was  too  late,  for  at  the  moment  I 
was  about  to  rein  in  my  horse,  down  we  both  went  together, 
with  a fearful  crash,  through  the  light  net-work  of  sticks  and 
grass  that  covered  it,  to  the  bottom  of  the  gulf,  which  could 
not  have  been  less  than  ten  feet  in  depth,  though  happily 
without  either  of  us  breaking  our  necks. 

This  pitfall  was  specially  intended  for  the  giraffe,  which 
abounded  hereabout,  and  was  very  different  in  construction 
from  those  in  use  for  elephants,  rhinoceroses,  and  other  large 
animals ; for,  instead  of  a single  cavity,  it  was  divided  into 
two  compartments,  separated  from  each  other  by  a wall  of 
earth.  Though  I never  before  knew  the  meaning  of  this  pe- 
culiar arrangement,  it  was  soon  explained.  My  horse,  having 
recovered  somewhat  from  his  surprise  and  the  stunning  ef- 
fects of  the  fall,  plunged  violently  forward,  and  endeavored 
to  leap  the  wall  in  question ; but  he  only  got  his  fore  quar- 
ters over  it,  and  the  depth  of  the  hole  preventing  him  from 
touching  the  ground  either  with  his  fore  or  hind  feet,  his 
whole  weight  rested  on  his  belly,  and  thus  suspended  be- 
tween earth  and  heaven,  he  became  totally  helpless. 

Seeing  that  the  poor  animal  could  not  possibly  live  long 
in  this  position,  and  that  I was  too  far  from  camp  to  return 
for  assistance,  I unhesitatingly  sprang  back  into  the  pit  from 
which  I had  just  extricated  myself,  and  placing  my  shoulders 
under  his  chest  (my  feet  resting  against  the  side  of  the  pit  to 
give  me  a better  leverage),  I exerted  all  my  strength,  and 
succeeded  in  pushing  him  back  into  the  compartment  in  which 
he  had  been  originally  deposited.  Finding  that  he  was  about 
to  renew  the  plunge,  I seized  the  bridle  with  my  left  hand 


THE  PITFALL RELEASE. 


361 


and  held  his  head  forcibly  down,  while  with  my  right  hand, 
and  by  the  aid  of  a stick  that  I picked  up,  I scraped  away 
the  soil  on  one  side  of  the  pit  so  that  it  became  in  a degree 
an  inclined  plane;  with  my  feet  I also  so  far  leveled  the 
wall  that  it  formed  a kind  of  platform.  This  matter  being 
arranged,  I laid  myself  on  my  back  on  the  edge  of  the  pit  and 
pulled  stoutly  at  the  bridle.  The  horse  understood  me,  for 
with  a violent  jerk  of  his  body  he  sprang  on  to  the  platform, 
and  next  to  the  inclined  plane,  where  for  a moment  he  near- 
ly lost  his  equilibrium,  but  at  last  successfully  cleared  the 
abyss. 

The  poor  brute  was  so  sensible  of  the  danger  he  had  es- 
caped that,  on  finding  himself  on  firm  ground,  he  uttered  a 
wild,  half-suppressed  neighing,  or  rather  scream,  and  con- 
tinued to  tremble  violently  for  several  minutes.  On  examin- 
ing him,  I found  he  had  sustained  no  farther  injury  than 
the  loss  of  a few  inches  of  skin  and  a quantity  of  hair.  As 


PITFALLS. 


Q 


362  GAME-PITS ENDURANCE  OP  THE  NATIVES. 

for  myself,  I escaped  with  a violent  twist  of  the  neck,  which 
inconvenienced  me  slightly  for  a few  days. 

Almost  all  the  tribes  of  Southern  Africa  avail  themselves 
of  pitfalls  (often  on  a most  gigantic  scale)  for  the  capture  of 
game.  These  traps,  or  rather  these  lines  of  pitfalls,  are  either 
constructed  in  the  shape  of  very  obtuse  triangles,  open  at  the 
base  and  gradually  tapering  to  a point,  where  a single,  double, 
or  treble  row  of  pits  are  dug,  into  which  the  game  is  driven 
by  shouts  or  yells,  or  they  are  formed  in  the  shape  of  a cres- 
cent— often  miles  in  extent — usually  shutting  out  a valley 
or  defile,  with  pits  at  every  fifty  or  a hundred  paces  apart, 
artfully  concealed  with  grass,  sand,  &c.,  the  intervening  spaces 
being  planted  and  filled  up  with  stout  palisades,  closely  inter- 
woven with  boughs  and  branches  of  thorn-trees. 

The  Hill-Damaras  are  remarkable  for  the  perseverance 
and  industry  they  exhibit  in  the  construction  of  game-pits. 
From  want  of  proper  tools,  the  trees  have  first  to  be  burnt 
down  and  then  carried  on  men’s  shoulders  to  their  destina- 
tion, and  when  we  add  to  this  that  the  task  is  frequently  ex- 
ecuted in  the  most  arid  districts — the  haunts  of  the  gemsbok, 
the  eland,  the  koodoo,  and  other  tenants  of  the  wilds,  who 
are  capable  of  existing  more  or  less  without  water  for  long 
periods — it  is  easy  to  imagine  the  labor  and  fatigue  of  the 
process. 

On  counting  over  the  different  articles  of  my  baggage,  I 
found  that  at  least  nine  or  ten  oxen  would  be  required  to 
carry  them,  in  addition  to  those  necessary  for  myself  and 
men  to  ride  upon.  Almost  all  my  cattle  were  young,  and 
only  half  broken-in,  and  there  was  scarcely  time  for  further 
training.  To  save  all  trouble,  I felt  inclined  to  push  on  with 
the  old  wagon  ; but,  for  more  than  one  reason,  the  idea  was 
quickly  abandoned.  I tvorked  night  and  day,  but  was  much 
harassed.  Through  carelessness,  the  hyaenas  were  allowed 
to  devour  the  skins  intended  for  pack  “riems”  and  divers 
minor  articles.  The  men  were  lazy,  stubborn,  and  ill-humor- 


SERVANT  PUNISHED PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE.  363 

ed,  and  I was  kept  constantly  on  the  rack  by  their  annoy- 
ances. One  day  I was  obliged  to  resort  to  the  very  unusual 
measure  of  flogging  Onesimus,  who  by  this  time  thought 
himself  too  civilized  to  need  correction.  Indeed,  they  were 
all  more  or  less  of  this  opinion,  and  wanted  their  dismissal. 
Having  always  been  kind  and  considerate  toward  my  men — 
too  much  so,  perhaps — I felt  disgusted  at  their  ingratitude, 
and  exclaimed,  rather  passionately,  “ Yes ; go,  cowards ! go 
and  tell  your  friends  that  you  have  left  your  master  in  the  des- 
ert to  the  mercy  of  wild  beasts  and  savage  men ; go  and  exult. 
Your  conduct  shall  not  prevent  me  from  persevering  in  my 
plans.”  On  more  mature  consideration,  however,  they  thought 
better  of  it,  and  again  returned  to  their  duty  with  a good 
will. 

After  many  delays  and  the  most  strenuous  exertions,  ev- 
ery thing  was  at  length  in  readiness  for  a start.  Before  set- 
ting off,  I wrote  to  some  of  my  friends  at  the  Cape,  and  also 
a letter  or  two  to  Europe,  intrusting  them  to  Eyebrecht,  who 
returned  forthwith  to  Walfisch  Bay. 

At  noon  of  the  14th  of  June  we  assembled  our  oxen  and 
began  to  pack ; but,  though  we  labored  till  our  heads  turned 
giddy  and  our  arms  were  paralyzed,  we  made  but  slow  prog- 
ress. No  sooner  had  we  finished  arranging  the  burden  of 
one  ox  than  another  threw  off  his  pack.  It  is  utterly  im- 
possible for  those  who  have  never  had  ocular  demonstration 
of  this  kind  of  work  with  half-wild  cattle  to  understand  the 
difficulty,  and  imagine  the  ludicrous  scenes  that  take  place. 
I have  already  given  a faint  sketch  of  the  process  of  training 
oxen,  from  which  the  reader  may  glean  some  notion  of  the 
obstacles  to  be  surmounted,  bearing  in  mind,  at  the  same 
time,  that  instead  of  a single  ox  we  had  ten  to  load,  besides 
those  on  which  we  were  mounted,  and  which  were  not  the 
most  manageable. 

At  last  we  were  off ; but  the  day  was  then  so  far  advanced 
that  we  were  unable  to  accomplish  more  than  seven  or  eight 


364 


TIRED  OUT LAUGHED  AT  BY  A JACKAL. 


miles  before  we  found  it  necessary  to  make  a halt  and  biv- 
ouac for  the  night.  We  were  so  thoroughly  knocked  up  with 
the  severe  labor  of  the  day,  that  after  having  hastily  removed 
the  packs  from  the  vicious  beasts,  we  literally  dropped  to 
sleep  where  we  stood,  not  one  of  the  party  giving  a thought 
as  to  food,  fire,  water,  or  covering,  of  each  and  all  of  which 
we  stood  greatly  in  need. 

On  returning  to  consciousness  the  following  morning,  the 
first  object  that  met  my  half-sleepy  gaze  was  a jackal,  busily 
engaged  examining  our  baggage.  Having  no  gun  within 
reach,  I threw  a handful  of  sand  at  the  impudent  fellow,  on 
which  he  saluted  me  with  a mocking  laugh,  and  slowly  re- 
treated. But  had  I then  been  aware  of  the  full  extent  of  his 
mischievous  propensities,  he  should  certainly  not  have  es- 
caped so  easy.  The  brute  had,  indeed,  devoured  one  of  the 
“ riems”  with  which  we  secured  the  packs  on  the  oxen. 
Nothing  could  possibly  have  been  more  unfortunate ; the 
thong  was,  at  that  time,  worth  its  weight  in  gold.  We  had 
ten  oxen  to  pack,  and  only  nine  66  riems !”  Here,  then,  was 
a fine  opportunity  for  a man  to  exert  his  ingenuity.  It  was 
totally  out  of  the  question  to  divide  any  of  the  remaining 
straps,  for  they  were  short  and  narrow  enough  already,  and 
they  must  be  of  a certain  length  and  solidity  in  order  to  serve 
the  purpose  effectually.  At  length,  however,  and  after  much 
searching,  patching,  and  splicing,  a very  indifferent  substitute 
was  produced,  and  we  were  again  en  route , though  not  be- 
fore I had,  for  the  fiftieth  time,  vowed  dire  vengeance  against 
the  whole  race  of  jackals. 

This  day  (May  15th)  we  proceeded  alternately  in  the  bed 
and  on  the  borders  of  the  Otjombinde  River.  The  soil  con- 
sisted of  fine  white  sand,  reflecting  a light  dazzling  and  pain- 
ful to  the  eyes,  while  it  was  soft  and  yielding  to  the  feet. 
The  grass  was  still  green  and  very  plentiful,  and  the  vegeta- 
tion, in  general,  was  rank.  We  passed  several  vleys  contain- 
ing small  quantities  of  muddy  water,  alive  with  loathsome 


SAND-WELLS  IN  THE  DESERT. 


365 


reptiles ; and,  in  some  places,  the  wallowing  of  elephants  and 
rhinoceroses  had  converted  it  into  a substance  not  unlike  a 
mass  of  well-kneaded  dough,  heaving  with  insect  life,  and 
tinted  and  variegated  by  the  stains  of  larger  animals.  Yet 
we  drank,  or  rather  gulped  it  with  avidity ! 

We  encountered  also  a vast  number  of  “ sand- wells,”  vary- 
ing from  one  to  three  fathoms  in  depth,  with  an  average  di- 
ameter at  the  top  of  twenty  feet.  The  construction  of  these 
pits  indicated  great  perseverance  and  skill,  and  had  evidently 
been  formed  by  a pastoral  people  possessed  of  large  herds  of 
cattle.  No  European  would  have  ever  dreamed  of  looking 
for  water  in  such  localities,  since  it  usually  lay  ten  feet  below 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  which  gave  no  indication  whatever 
of  its  presence.  Not  having  been  used  or  kept  in  repair  for 
many  a long  year,  several  were  partially  filled  with  sand, 
but  the  greater  portions  were  still  in  tolerable  order.  They 
contained  no  standing  water,  but  plenty  of  moisture ; and, 
by  inserting  a reed — the  plan  adopted  by  the  Bushmen  when 
the  liquid  will  not  flow — enough  to  quench  a person’s  thirst 
was  generally  obtained.  Elephants  had  been  at  work  in 
many,  but  were  clearly  disappointed. 

About  sunset  we  came  to  a large  vley  where  a troop  of 
elephants  had  evidently  only  a short  time  previously  been 
enjoying  themselves.  This  circumstance  put  my  men  on  the 
qui  vive;  and  my  Griqua  interpreter,  who  was  one  of  the 
most  chicken-hearted  of  beings,  took  good  care  to  magnify 
the  danger  of  encountering  these  animals  at  night.  He  de- 
clared that  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  come  to  a halt; 
but  this  did  not  suit  my  purpose  at  all.  I assured  my  men 
that  elephants,  if  left  unmolested,  were  very  timid  and  civil 
beasts,  and  that,  no  doubt,  if  we  met  them  and  only  gave 
them  room  to  pass,  they  would  in  all  probability  treat  us 
with  equal  courtesy.  This  having  in  some  degree  quieted 
their  apprehensions,  we  proceeded  till  about  nine  o’clock, 
when  we  unloaded  the  tired  oxen  and  camped  for  the  night. 


366 


THE  BIVOUAC MORE  PITFALLS— SPORT. 


As  for  ourselves,  though  much  fatigued,  we  took  the  pre- 
caution to  provide  security  from  all  skulking  night-prowlers. 
By  a roaring  fire,  and  over  a hearty  supper,  we  forgot  the 
miseries  of  the  day,  and,  in  the  firm  anticipation  of  success, 
cheerfully  resigned  our  weary  limbs  to  sleep. 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning  we  were  on  the  move. 
The  air  being  cool,  we  proceeded  briskly.  About  noon  some 
Bushmen  were  observed  digging  roots ; but  they  only  allowed 
us  to  approach  within  shouting  distance.  We  managed,  how- 
ever, to  hold  some  little  conversation  with  them,  and  learned 
that  water  was  not  far  off.  They  warned  us  to  proceed  with 
caution,  as  the  whole  river-bed  in  advance  was  undermined 
with  pitfalls.  And  true  enough  ; for,  before  being  aware  of 
it,  we  found  ourselves  entrapped  in  a maze  of  yawning  chasms, 
down  some  of  which  bipeds  and  quadrupeds  went  together  in 
the  most  amicable  confusion.  However,  being  partially  pre- 
pared for  the  event,  and  traveling  at  a slow  pace,  we  escaped 
with  a few  bruises.  To  prevent  a recurrence  of  the  mischief, 
a man  or  two  proceeded  in  advance,  and  unmasked  the  re- 
mainder. They  were  constructed  on  the  same  principle  as 
the  one  into  which  I had  a short  time  previously  been  so  un- 
ceremoniously precipitated. 

At  two  o’clock  P.M.  we  came  to  a halt  by  a well  of  clear, 
good  water.  Within  gunshot  of  this  place  was  a 66  salt-lick,” 
much  frequented  by  wild  animals,  such  as  rhinoceroses,  gi- 
raffes, gemsboks,  koodoos,  elands,  gnoos,  &c. ; but  I prefer- 
red to  devote  the  ensuing  night  to  rest  and  astronomical  ob- 
servations rather  than  lying  in  ambush  for  game. 

At  an  after  period  I had  some  good  sport  in  this  locality, 
as  also  some  spirited  chases  after  elands.  But  space  prevents 
me  from  entering  into  details. 

The  Otjombinde,  without  materially  taking  us  out  of  our 
direct  route,  had  thus  far  befriended  us ; but,  if  I wished  to 
reach  the  Lake,  it  was  now  out  of  the  question  any  longer  to 
follow  this  river,  as  hence  it  pursued  too  southerly  a course. 


LOSS  OP  THE  “LION”  AND  THE  “CROSS.”  367 

According  to  the  advice  of  the  Bushmen,  therefore,  we  now 
left  it  to  the  right,  and  struck  out  in  a northerly  direction 
through  an  intensely  dense  “ Wacht-een-bigte”  (thorn-jun- 
gle). After  a few  hours’  travel,  “we  packed-off”  to  the 
eastward  of  some  dilapidated  limestone  pits ; but,  though  they 
contained  water,  from  the  depth  of  the  cavities,  and  the  dif- 
ficulty of  access  to  them,  it  occupied  the  men  several  hours 
to  supply  the  wants  of  our  small  herd  of  cattle.  The  next 
stage — a short  one — we  slept  without  water. 

In  the  course  of  the  following  day’s  march  we  had  tra- 
versed dense  brakes  which  annoyed  us  excessively,  for  the 
thorns  not  only  tore  our  flesh  and  clothes,  but  subtracted 
several  articles  of  value  from  the  pack-saddles.  Among  other 
losses,  I had  to  bewail  that  of  two  magnificent  flags — the 
British  and  the  Swedish — which  had  been  expressly  made 
for  and  presented  to  me  by  my  friend,  Mr.  Letterstedt,  the 
Swedish  consul-general  at  the  Cape,  and  which  I hoped  to 
have  unfurled  on  the  shores  of  the  far-famed  Ngami.  All  my 
efforts  to  recover  these  valued  standards  proved  fruitless,  some 
hyaenas  having  probably  swallowed  the  Anglo-Saxon  Lion 
and  the  Swedish  Cross. 

At  dusk,  after  having  been  ten  hours  in  the  saddle,  we 
reached  a famous  place  called  Ghanze,  where  we  pitched  our 
camp. 


368 


GHANZE. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Ghanze. — Spotted  Hyaena. — The  Rhinoceros. — Where  found. — Sev- 
eral Species. — Description  of  Rhinoceros.— Size. — Appearance. — 
Age. — Strength.  — Speed.  — Food. — Water. — The  Young. — Affec- 
tion.— Senses. — Disposition.  — Gregarious. — Indolence. — Domesti- 
cation.— Flesh. — Horns. — The  Chase. — Mr.  Oswell’s  Adventures 
with  Rhinoceroses. — A Crotchet. — Where  to  aim  at  the  Rhinoce- 
ros.— Does  not  bleed  externally  when  wounded. — Great  numbers 
slain  annually. 

Ghanze,  according  to  the  interpretation  of  my  Griqua, 
signifies  very  large,  and  yet  very  small.  Absurd  as  this  ex- 
planation may  appear,  there  is,  nevertheless,  some  aptness  in 
it.  The  u very  large”  means  that  from  the  moisture  of  the 
ground  there  is  an  indication  of  much  water,  while  the  real 
quantity  is  trifling.  Ghanze  is  a peculiar  and  dreary-look- 
ing place,  consisting  of  an  extensive  hollow  with  innumera- 
ble small  stones  scattered  over  its  surface,  and  one  side  fenced 
by  a natural  limestone  wall  three  to  five  feet  in  height.  The 
whole  is  hemmed  in  with  thorn  coppices  intersected  by  nu- 
merous footpaths,  the  work  of  those  huge  creatures,  the  ele- 
phant and  the  rhinoceros,  who  have  probably  wandered  here 
for  ages  in  undisputed  sway.  Here  and  there  an  “ iron -tree,” 
the  mythological  progenitor  of  the  Damaras,  stands  majestic- 
ally forth,  shooting  its  wide-spreading  branches  high  into 
space. 

Ghanze,  it  would  appear,  has  been  long  known  to  the  Be- 
chuanas  and  the  Griquas.  A party  of  the  latter,  I was  told, 
reached  it  many  years  previously  to  my  arrival  in  a despair- 
ing state,  having  been  obliged  to  abandon  their  wagons  in  the 
Kalahari.  The  body  of  men  from  whom  I obtained  my  in- 
terpreter had  also  visited  it.  It  had  even  been  frequented  by 


THE  SPOTTED  HYJENA HOW  MUTILATED  ; 


369 


Europeans.  An  English  traveler,  Moyle,  crossed  the  desert 
in  safety,  and  arrived  at  Ghanze  in  1852,  on  a trading  and 
hunting  expedition.  From  this  place  he  was  guided  by 
Bushmen  to  Great  Namaqua-land,  whence  he  retraced  his 
steps  home.  The  year  after  this  he  again  crossed  the  desert, 
though  under  unfavorable  circumstances,  having,  with  the 
exception  of  two  horses,  lost  all  his  beasts  of  burden,  as  also 
his  servants,  some  of  whom  died  from  want. 

Almost  the  first  animal  I saw  at  this  place  was  a gigantic 
“ tiger-wolf,”  or  spotted  hyaena,  which,  to  my  surprise,  in- 
stead of  seeking  safety  in  flight,  remained  stationary,  grin- 
ning in  the  most  ghastly  manner.  Having  approached  with- 
in twenty  paces,  I perceived,  to  my  horror,  that  his  fore 
paws,  and  the  skin  and  flesh  of  his  front  legs,  had  been  gnaw- 
ed away,  and  that  he  could  scarcely  move  from  the  spot. 
To  shorten  the  sufferings  of  the  poor  beast,  I seized  my  op- 
portunity and  knocked  him  on  the  head  with  a stone,  and, 
catching  him  by  the  tail,  drove  my  hunting  knife  deep  into 
his  side ; but  I had  to  repeat  the  operation  more  than  once 
before  I could  put  an  end  to  his  existence.  I am  at  a loss 
how  to  account  for  his  mangled  condition.  It  certainly  could 
not  have  been  from  age,  for  his  teeth  were  good.  Could  it 
be  possible  that,  from  want  of  food,  he  had  become  too  weak 
for  further  exertions,  and  that,  as  a last  resource,  he  had  at- 
tacked his  own  body  ? or  was  he  an  example  of  that  extra- 
ordinary species  of  cruelty  said  to  be  practiced  by  the  lion  on 
the  hyaena  when  the  latter  has  the  insolence  to  interfere  with 
the  monarch’s  prey 

Fortune  once  again  favored  us ; for,  in  the  course  of  the 
few  days  we  remained  at  Ghanze,  several  rhinoceroses  were 
shot,  affording  an  abundance  of  provisions.  These  animals 
were  very  numerous,  but  rather  shy.  One  night  I counted 

* It  is  asserted  by  more  than  one  experienced  hunter,  that  when 
the  hyaena  proves  troublesome,  the  lion  has  been  known  to  bite  off  all 
its  feet,  and,  thus  mutilated,  leave  the  poor  animal  to  its  fate ! 

Q 2 


370 


RHINOCEROSES DIFFERENT  SPECIES. 


twenty  defiling  past  me,  though  beyond  reach.  The  cause 
of  so  unusual  a number  being  seen  together  was  as  follows : 
In  the  early  part  of  the  night,  one  or  two  were  approaching 
the  water,  but,  having  winded  me,  they  kept  walking  rest- 
lessly round  the  place,  grunting  and  snorting  most  viciously. 
This  had  the  effect  of  putting  those  who  arrived  later  on 
guard,  and  they  soon  joined  company. 

Of  all  the  South  African  animals,  not  the  least  curious, 
perhaps,  is  the  rhinoceros.  He  inhabits  a large  portion  of 
the  African  continent — such  localities,  at  least,  as  are  suita- 
ble to  his  habits.  Formerly,  as  before  mentioned,  he  was 
common  even  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Cape-Town  ; but, 
owing  to  constant  persecution,  is  now  rarely  met  farther  to 
the  southward  (I  speak  of  the  West  Coast)  than  about  the 
twenty-third  degree  of  latitude.  In  the  interior,  however, 
the  tribe  is  still  very  numerous.  “ On  one  occasion,”  says 
Captain  Harris,  in  a private  letter,  “while  walking  from  the 
wagons  to  bring  the  head  of  a koodoo  that  I had  killed  about 
a mile  off,  I encountered  twenty-two  rhinoceroses,  and  had 
to  shoot  four  of  them  to  clear  the  way.” 

The  rhinoceros  is,  moreover,  an  inhabitant  of  Bengal, 
Siam,  China,  and  other  countries  of  Asia ; also  of  Java, 
Sumatra,  and  Ceylon.  But  the  three  species*  indigenous  to 
this  quarter  of  the  globe  would  seem  to  be  quite  different 
from  any  yet  found  in  Africa.  Almost  all  the  Asiatic  species 
have  an  exceedingly  coarse  hide,  covered  with  large  folds,  not 
unlike  a coat  of  mail,  while  that  of  the  African  species  is 
comparatively  smooth.  Two  of  the  Indian  rhinoceroses  have 
only  one  horn,  whereas  all  the  African  are  provided  with 
two.f  The  third  Asiatic  species,  which  is  found  in  the  isl- 

* Rhinoceros  Indians,  Rhinoceros  Sondaicus,  and  Rhinoceros  Bicornis 
Sumatrensis. 

t I have  met  persons  who  told  me  that  they  have  killed  rhinoceroses 
with  three  horns ; but  in  all  such  cases  (and  they  have  been  but  few), 
the  third,  or  posterior  horn  is  so  small  as  to  be  scarcely  perceptible. 


HEADS  OF  RHINOCEROSES.  371 

and  of  Sumatra,  resembles  the  African  in  having  two  horns, 
but  in  other  respects  differs  considerably. 


Though  the  rhinoceros  is  abundant  in  the  interior  of  Af- 


3IEADS  OF  RHINOCEROSES.* 


rica,  it  is  described  as  far  more  numerous  in  Asia,  and  as  less 
generally  distributed  than  the  elephant. 

Four  distinct  species  of  rhinoceroses  are  known  to  exist  in 
South  Africa,  two  of  which  are  of  a dark  color,  and  two  of  a 
whitish  hue.  Hence  they  are  usually  designated  the  “ black” 
and  the  “ white”  rhinoceros. 

One  of  the  two  species  of  “ black” — the  Borele,  as  it  is 
called  by  the  Bechuanas — is  the  common  small  black  rhinoc- 

* The  above  wood-cut  is  a rough  but  characteristic  outline  of  the 
heads  of  the  four  distinct  species  of  rhinoceroses  recognized  as  indig- 
enous to  Africa.  The  two  lowest  heads  in  the  sketch  are  those  of 
the  “ black.” 


372 


HORNS  OP  RHINOCEROS  OSWELLII. 


eros  {rhinoceros  bicornis );  the  other,  the  Keitloa  {rhinoceros 
Keitloo ),  or  the  two-horned  black  rhinoceros,  as  it  is  also 
termed  by  naturalists.  The  latter  differs  from  the  Borele  in 
being  somewhat  larger,  with  a longer  neck;  in  having  the 
horns  of  nearly  equal  length,  with  a lesser  number  of  wrinkles 
about  the  head ; and  it  is  of  a more  wild  and  morose  disposi- 
tion. The  upper  lip  of  both  (more  especially  in  the  Keitloa) 
is  pointed,  overlaps  the  lower,  and  is  capable  of  extension. 
It  is  pliable,  and  the  animal  can  move  it  from  side  to  side, 
twist  it  round  a stick,  collect  its  food,  or  seize  with  it  any 
thing  it  would  carry  to  its  mouth.  Both  species  are  ex- 
tremely fierce,  and,  excepting  the  buffalo,  are  perhaps  the 
most  dangerous  of  all  the  beasts  in  Southern  Africa. 

Of  the  white  species,  we  have  the  common  white  rhinoc- 
eros ( rhinoceros  simus , Burch.),  called  Monoohoo  by  the  Be- 
chuanas,  and  the  Kobaaba  {rhinoceros  Osweliii , Gray),  or  long- 


HOEN8  OF  RHINOCEROS  OSWELLII. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  RHINOCEROS. 


373 


horned  white  rhinoceros.*  It  is  with  regard  to  their  horns 
that  the  two  species  chiefly  differ  from  each  other ; for  while 
the  anterior  horn  of  the  Monoohoo  has  an  average  length  of 
two  or  three  feet,  curving  backward,  that  of  the  Kobaaba 
not  unfrequently  exceeds  four  feet,  and  is  slightly  pointed  for- 
ward, inclining  from  the  snout  at  about  an  angle  of  forty-five 
degrees.  This  rhinoceros  is  also  the  rarer  of  the  two,  and  is 
only  found  in  the  more  interior  parts  of  South  Africa. 

The  chief  distinguishing  characteristics  of  the  white  rhi- 
noceros are  its  superior  size,  the  extraordinary  prolongation 
of  its  head,  which  is  not  far  from  one  third  of  the  whole 
length  of  the  animal’s  body,  its  square  nose  (hence  also 
designated  “ square-nosed  rhinoceros”),  and  the  greater  length 
of  the  anterior  horns. 

The  “ black”  and  the  u white”  rhinoceros,  though  so  nearly 
allied  to  each  other,  differ  widely  in  their  mode  of  living, 
habits,  &c.  The  chief  sustenance  of  the  former  animal  con- 
sists of  the  roots  of  certain  bushes,  which  it  plows  up  with 
its  strong  horn,  and  the  shoots  and  tender  boughs  of  the 
“ wait-a-bit”  thorn;  while  the  “ white”  rhinoceros,  on  the 
contrary,  feeds  solely  on  grasses. 

In  disposition,  also,  there  is  a marked  distinction  between 
them  ; for  while  the  “ black”  is  of  a very  savage  nature,  the 

* Only  the  horns  of  this  species  have  been  described  by  naturalists. 
Dr.  Gray,  of  the  British  Museum,  seems  to  be  one  of  the  first  who 
drew  attention  to  the  Kobaaba  as  a distinct  rhinoceros.  In  the  “ Pro- 
ceedings of  the  Zoological  Society,”  No.  ccl.,  p.  46,  the  following  de- 
tails appear.  They  were  obtained  from  a pair  of  horns  (of  which  the 
wood-cut  in  the  opposite  page  is  an  excellent  likeness)  presented  by  Mr. 
Oswell  to  Colonel  Thomas  Steele,  of  Upper  Brook  Street : 

“The  front  horn  is  elongated  and  thick ; but,  instead  of  being  bent 
back,  as  is  the  general  character  of  R.  bicornis,  or  erect,  as  in  R.  simus , 
it  is  bent  forward,  so  that  the  upper  surface  is  worn  flat  by  being  rubbed 
against  the  ground.  The  front  horn  is  thirty-one  inches  long,  flat, 
square,  rough  and  fibrous  in  front,  rounded  and  smooth  behind.  The 
hinder  horn,  eleven  inches  in  length,  is  short,  conical,  and  sub-quad- 
rangular.” 


374 


DESCRIPTION  OF  RHINOCEROS. 


“white,”  on  the  other  hand,  is  of  a comparatively  mild  dis- 
position, and,  unless  in  defense  of  its  young,  or  when  hotly 
pursued,  or  wounded,  will  rarely  attack  a man. 

The  body  of  the  rhinoceros  is  long  and  thick ; its  belly  is 
large,  and  hangs  near  the  ground ; its  legs  are  short,  round, 
and  very  strong ; and  its  hoofs  are  divided  into  three  parts, 
each  pointing  forward.  The  head,  which  is  remarkably 
formed,  is  large ; the  ears  are  long  and  erect ; its  eyes  small 
and  sunk.  The  horns,  which  are  composed  of  a mass  of  fine 
longitudinal  threads  or  laminae,  forming  a beautifully  hard 
and  solid  substance,  are  not  affixed  to  the  skull,  but  merely 
attached  to  the  skin,  resting,  however,  in  some  degree,  on  a 
bony  protuberance  above  the  nostrils.  It  is  believed  by  many 
that,  when  the  animal  is  at  rest,  the  horns  are  soft  and  pli- 
able, but  that,  when  on  the  move,  they  at  once  become  hard 
and  solid.  Moreover,  that  it  can,  at  will,  turn  the  posterior 
horn,  the  other  horn  meanwhile  remaining  firm  and  erect; 
but  there  can  scarcely  be  sufficient  foundation  for  such  no- 
tions. 

In  size  the  African  rhinoceros — the  white  species,  at  least 
— is  only  exceeded  by  the  elephant.  A full-grown  male  (JR. 
simus)  measures  from  the  snout  to  the  extremity  of  the  tail 
(which  is  about  two  feet)  between  fourteen  and  sixteen  feet, 
with  a circumference  of  ten  or  twelve.  To  judge  from  these 
data,  and  the  general  bulkiness  of  the  body,  it  can  not  weigh 
less  than  from  four  to  five  thousand  pounds.  In  our  “ bush- 
cuisine”  we  reckoned  one  of  these  animals  equal  to  three 
good-sized  oxen. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  African  rhinoceros  is  not 
unlike  that  of  an  immense  hog  shorn  of  his  hair,  or,  rather, 
bristles,  for,  with  the  exception  of  a tuft  at  the  extremity  of 
the  ears  and  the  tail,  it  has  no  hair  whatever ; and,  as  if  in 
mockery  of  its  giant  form,  its  eyes  are  ludicrously  small — so 
small,  indeed,  that  at  a short  distance  they  are  impercepti- 
ble. Altogether,  what  with  its  huge  body,  misshapen  head, 


AGE STRENGTH SPEED FOOD.  375 

ungainly  legs  and  feet,  and  diminutive  organs  of  vision,  the 
rhinoceros  is  the  very  image  of  ugliness. 

I have  no  data  that  would  enable  me  to  determine  the  age 
of  this  animal,  but  if  we  are  to  judge  from  the  length  of  time 
that  the  horns  require  to  be  perfected,  and  supposing  the  an- 
imal to  continue  to  grow  in  the  mean  while,  it  may  be  safe- 
ly conjectured  that  he  is  one  of  the  most  long-lived  of  beasts. 
Indeed,  it  is  probable  he  attains  the  age  of  one  hundred 
years. 

In  strength  the  rhinoceros  is  scarcely  inferior  to  the  ele- 
phant. Of  its  prodigious  power  sufficient  evidence  was 
shown  in  the  manner  in  which  it  charged  the  missionary 
wagon,  as  mentioned  at  page  50  of  this  volume.  It  is  on 
record,  moreover,  that  the  rhinoceros  which  Emanuel,  King 
of  Portugal,  sent  to  the  Pope  in  the  year  1513,  destroyed,  in 
a paroxysm  of  fury,  the  vessel  in  which  he  was  transported. 

Ungainly  and  heavy  as  the  rhinoceros  looks,  it  is,  never- 
theless, so  exceedingly  swift  of  foot — at  least  as  regards  the 
black  species — “that  a horse  with  a rider,”  to  quote  the 
words  of  Gordon  Cumming,  “ can  rarely  manage  to  overtake 
it.”  The  testimony  of  Captain  Harris  is  to  the  like  effect ; 
for,  when  speaking  of  the  chase  of  this  animal,  and  after  tell- 
ing us  that  it  is  most  difficult  to  kill,  he  says,  “From  its 
clumsy  appearance,  one  would  never  suppose  it  could  dart 
about  as  it  does,  like  lightning.” 

The  food  of  the  rhinoceros  consists  entirely,  as  mentioned, 
of  vegetables,  shoots  of  trees,  grasses,  &c.  It  is  fond  of  the 
sugar-cane,  and  eats  all  kinds  of  grain  ;*  but  it  does  not  seem 
to  be  a voracious  feeder.  Indeed,  it  would  appear  to  be 
somewhat  fastidious  in  the  selection  of  its  food,  in  search  of 
which  it  wanders  far  and  wide. 

* The  Asiatic  specimen  in  the  Zoological  Gardens,  Kegent’s  Park, 
is  fed  on  clover,  straw,  rice,  and  bran.  His  daily  allowance  is  one 
truss  of  straw,  three  quarters  of  a truss  of  clover,  one  quart  of  rice, 
half  a bushel  of  bran,  and  twenty  to  twenty-four  gallons  of  water. 


376 


WATER YOUNG BREEDING SIZE. 


Water  is  indispensable  to  the  rhinoceros,  and,  even  if  his 
usual  haunts  be  distant  from  the  fountain,  he  seeks  it  at  least 
once  in  the  course  of  the  twenty-four  hours,  as  well  to  quench 
his  thirst  as  to  wallow  in  the  mud,  with  which  his  body  is 
frequently  incrusted,  leaving  to  the  thirsty  traveler  nothing 
but  a mass  of  well-kneaded  dough. 


Little  seems  to  be  known  of  the  breeding  habits  of  this 
animal : whether  it  lives  in  monogamy,  or  has  a plurality  of 
wives,  and  so  forth.  It  appears  certain,  however,  that  the 
female  only  produces  one  young  at  a birth,  and  that,  too,  at 
considerable  intervals.  During  the  first  month,  the  young 
rhinoceros  exceeds  not  the  size  of  a large  dog,  with  the  mer- 
est indication  of  horns.  A complete  and  full-grown  foetus 
of  JR.  Keitloa  that  I once  obtained  measured  thus : 

Length  of  body  (from  tip  of  nose,  over  the  head,  and  Ft.  in. 


along  the  back)  to  insertion  of  tail....... 3 6 

Length  of  tail 0 10 

Circumference  of  body  behind  shoulder 2 4 

“ neck 1 8 

“ head  (across  the  eyes) 1 8 

Height  at  the  shoulder 2 1 

Length  of  head  between  ears  and  eyes 0 4£ 

Breadth  “ 11  “ 0 4 


eyes  (corner  nearest  nostrils)  0 7 


HORNS HEARING SMELL SIGHT DISPOSITION.  377 

At  the  age  of  two  years  the  horn  is  said  to  be  not  more 
than  an  inch  long ; at  six  years  old  it  is  nine  or  ten  inches 
long,  and  grows,  as  seen  in  the  whitfe  species,  to  the  length 
of  three  or  four  feet. 

The  rhinoceros  is  a very  affectionate  mother,  and  guards 
her  offspring  with  the  tenderest  care.  The  young,  in  its  turn, 
clings  dotingly  to  its  dam,  and,  even  for  a day  or  two  after 
the  latter  has  been  killed,  the  calf  is  frequently  found  along- 
side the  carcass.  Several  instances  of  the  kind  have  come 
under  my  personal  notice,  and  many  others  are  to  be  found 
in  the  records  of  African  travelers  and  hunters. 

The  sense  of  hearing  and  smell  of  this  animal  is  most 
acute.  I have  had  numerous  opportunities  of  testing  both 
these  qualities.  Even  when  feeding,  lying  down,  or  obeying 
any  passing  demand  of  nature,  he  will  listen  with  a deep  and 
continued  attention  until  the  noise  that  has  attracted  his  at- 
tention ceases.  He  “ winds”  an  enemy  from  a very  great  dis- 
tance ; but  if  one  be  to  leeward  of  him,  it  is  not  difficult  to  ap- 
proach within  a few  paces. 

His  sight,  on  the  other  hand,  is  not  good.  From  the  pe- 
culiar position  of  his  eyes,  which  are  deep  set  in  the  head, 
and  his  unwieldy  horns,  he  can  only  see  what  is  immediately 
before  him. 

The  “ black”  species,  as  before  said,  are  of  a very  sullen 
and  morose  disposition.  They  are,  moreover,  subject  to  sud- 
den paroxysms  of  unprovoked  fury,  rushing  and  charging 
with  inconceivable  fierceness  animals,  stones,  bushes  — in 
short,  any  object  that  comes  in  their  way. 

Seen  in  his  native  wilds,  either  when  browsing  at  his  leis- 
ure, or  listlessly  sauntering  about,  a person  would  take  the 
rhinoceros  to  be  the  most  stupid  and  inoffensive  of  creatures  ; 
yet,  when  his  ire  is  roused,  he  becomes  the  reverse,  and  is 
then  the  most  agile  and  terrible  of  animals. 

Colonel  Williamson  speaks  of  a rhinoceros  in  India  whose 
ferocity  was  such  as  to  render  the  roads  impassable  by  at- 


378 


FEROCITY  OF  THE  RHINOCEROS. 


tacking  travelers,  or  those  who  passed  near  his  haunts ; and  he 
relates  an  attack  upon  a sporting  company  by  the  same  ani- 
mal, in  the  close  of  the  year  1788,  as  generally  known  to  the 
army  and  residents  of  the  district.  “ Two  officers  belonging 
to  the  troops  cantoned  at  Dunapore,  near  Patna,  went  down 
the  river  toward  Monghyr  to -shoot  and  hunt.  They  had 
encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  Derrzapore,  and  had  heard  some 
reports  of  a rhinoceros  having  attacked  some  travelers  many 
miles  off.  One  morning,  just  as  they  were  rising,  about  day- 
break, to  go  in  quest  of  game,  they  heard  a violent  uproar ; 
and,  on  looking  out,  found  that  a rhinoceros  was  goring  their 
horses,  both  of  which,  being  fastened  by  their  head  and  heel 
with  ropes,  were  consequently  unable  either  to  escape  or  re- 
sist. Their  servants  took  to  their  heels,  and  concealed  them- 
selves in  the  neighboring  jungle;  and  the  gentlemen  had  just 
time  to  climb  up  into  a small  tree  not  far  distant,  before  the 
furious  beast,  having  completed  the  destruction  of  the  horses, 
turned  his  attention  to  their  masters.  They  were  barely 
out  of  his  reach,  and  by  no  means  exempt  from  danger,  es- 
pecially as  he  assumed  a threatening  appearance,  and  seemed 
intent  on  their  downfall.  After  keeping  them  in  dreadful 
suspense  for  some  time,  and  using  some  efforts  to  dislodge 
them,  seeing  the  sun  rise,  he  retreated  to  his  haunt ; not, 
however,  without  occasionally  casting  an  eye  back,  as  with 
regret,  at  leaving  what  he  wanted  the  power  to  destroy.” 
But  the  rhinoceros  is  not  dangerous  to  man  alone : all  the 
beasts  of  the  forest  dread  him,  and  none  venture  to  attack 
this  truly  formidable  animal.  The  lion,  if  they  chance  to 
meet,  slinks  out  of  his  way.  Even  the  elephant,  should  they 
encounter,  retreats,  if  possible,  without  hazarding  an  engage- 
ment. Major  Tally  stated  to  the  author  of  “ Oriental  Sports” 
that  he  once  witnessed,  from  a distant  hill,  a most  desperate 
battle  between  a large  male  elephant  and  a rhinoceros,  in 
which  the  former  was  worsted  and  fled.  Amral  told  me 
that  one  day,  while  himself  and  party  were  engaged  in  pur- 


GREGARIOUS  HABITS — DOMESTICATION.  379 

# 

suit  of  an  elephant,  a black  rhinoceros  suddenly  appeared 
among  them,  charging  madly  both  beasts  and  men,  several 
of  whom  had  narrow  escapes  from  being  gored  by  the  an- 
imal. 

The  rhinoceros  will  also  fight  his  own  species.  One  night, 
when  at  the  “skarm,”  I saw  four  huge  beasts  engage  each 
other  at  the  same  time,  and  so  furious  was  the  strife,  and 
their  gruntings  so  horrible,  that  it  caused  the  greatest  con- 
sternation among  my  party,  who  were  encamped  some  little 
way  off.  I succeeded  after  a while  in  killing  two  of  them, 
one  of  which  was  actually  unfit  for  food,  being  quite  rotten 
from  wounds  received  on  previous  occasions,  and,  probably, 
under  similar  circumstances. 

The  rhinoceros,  though  it  can  not  strictly  be  called  a gre- 
garious animal,  and  though  most  commonly  met  with  singly 
or  in  pairs,  would  seem  to  be  of  a somewhat  social  disposition. 
Indeed,  as  many  as  a dozen  have  been  seen  pasturing  and 
browsing  together. 

The  rhinoceros  is  nocturnal  in  his  habits.  At  the  ap- 
proach of  dusk  he  commences  his  rambles,  and,  if  not  dis- 
turbed, generally  visits  the  pool  at  an  early  hour  of  the 
evening;  afterward  he  not  unfrequently  wanders  over  a 
great  extent  of  country.  Soon  after  sunrise  he  -seeks  repose 
and  shelter  against  the  heat  under  some  friendly  mimosa, 
or  the  projecting  ledge  of  a rock,  where  he  spends  the  day 
in  sleep,  either  stretched  at  full  length  or  in  a standing  po- 
sition. Thus  seen  from  a distance,  he  may  easily  be  mistak- 
en for  the  fragment  of  a rock. 

The  Asiatic  species  is  frequently  kept  in  confinement,  but, 
though  generally  tractable,  his  morose  and  savage  nature 
makes  him  rather  dangerous.  The  least  provocation  often 
puts  him  into  a tempest  of  passion,  when  he  will  not  hesitate 
to  destroy  his  best  friend.  In  his  rage  he  will  jump  about, 
and  leap  to  a great  height,  driving  his  head  furiously,  and 
with  incredible  swiftness,  against  the  partitions  of  his  place 


380 


FLESH  AND  HORNS  OF  THE  RHINOCEROS. 


of  confinement.  Three  or  four  specimens  are  at  the  present 
day  alive  in  England. 

The  flesh  of  the  rhinoceros  varies  greatly  in  quality.  That 
of  the  “black”  species,  from  its  leanness,  and  the  animal 
feeding  on  the  “ wait-a-bit”  thorn  bushes,  which  gives  it  an 
acrid  and  bitter  flavor,  is  not  over-esteemed.  That  of  the 
white,  on  the  other  hand,  whose  sustenance  consists  of  grass, 
which  imparts  to  it  an  agreeable  taste,  coupled  with  its  usu- 
al fatness,  is  greatly  sought  after  by  natives  and  colonists. 
Indeed,  the  flesh  of  this  animal  seems  always  to  have  been 
in  repute  in  the  Cape  Colony.  Kolben,  when  speaking  of  it, 
says,  “ The  flesh  of  a rhinoceros,  which  I have  often  eaten 
with  a great  deal  of  satisfaction,  is  not  so  sinewy  as  some 
writers  have  represented.” 

The  horns  of  the  rhinoceros,  which  are  capable  of  a high 
polish,  are  a valuable  article  of  commerce.  At  the  Cape 
this  commodity  fetches  half  as  much  as  ordinary  elephant 
ivory.  It  is  extensively  used  in  the  manufacture  of  sword- 
handles,  drinking-cups,  ramrods  for  rifles,  and  a variety  of 
other  purposes.  In  Turkey  the  rhinoceros  horn  is  much  es- 
teemed, more  especially  such  as  have  a reddish  tint  about 
the  grain.  These,  when  made  into  cups,  the  Turks  believe 
to  have  the  virtue  of  detecting  poison. 

“The  horns  of  the  rhinoceros,”  says  Thunberg,  “were 
kept  by  some  people,  both  in  town  and  country,  not  only  as 
rarities,  but  also  as  useful  in  diseases,  and  for  the  purpose  of 
detecting  poison.  As  to  the  former  of  these  intentions,  the 
fine  shavings  of  the  horns  taken  internally  were  supposed  to 
cure  convulsions  and  spasms  in  children.  With  respect  to 
the  latter,  it  was  generally  believed  that  goblets  made  of  these 
horns  in  a turner’s  lathe  would  discover  a poisonous  draft 
that  was  put  into  them  by  making  the  liquor  ferment  till  it 
ran  quite  out  of  the  goblet.  Such  horns  as  were  taken  from 
a rhinoceros  calf  were  said  to  be  the  best,  and  the  most  to  be 
depended  upon.” 


VIRTUE  OF  THE  HORNS THE  CHASE. 


381 


“ The  horn  of  the  rhinoceros,”  Kolben  tells  us,  “ will  not 
endure  the  touch  of  poison.  I have  often  been  a witness  to 
this.  Many  people  of  fashion  at  the  Cape  have  cups  turn’d 
out  of  the  rhinoceros  horn.  Some  have  them  set  in  silver, 
and  some  in  gold.  If  wine  is  pour’d  into  one  of  these  cups, 
it  immediately  rises  and  bubbles  up  as  if  it  were  boiling ; and 
if  there  be  poison  in  it,  the  cup  immediately  splits.  If  poi- 
son be  put  by  itself  into  one  of  those  cups,  the  cup,  in  an  in- 
stant, flies  to  pieces.  Tho’  this  matter  is  known  to  thou- 
sands of  persons,  yet  some  writers  have  affirm’d  that  the 
rhinoceros  horn  has  no  such  virtue.  The  chips  made  in  turn- 
ing one  of  those  cups  are  ever  carefully  sav’d,  and  return’d  to 
the  owner  of  the  cup,  being  esteem’d  of  great  benefit  in  con- 
vulsions, faintings,  and  many  other  illnesses.” 

The  chase  of  the  rhinoceros  is  variously  conducted  in  South- 
ern Africa.  One  of  the  most  approved  plans  is  to  stalk  the 
animal  either  when  feeding  or  reposing.  If  the  sportsman 
keep  well  under  the  wind,  and  there  be  the  least  cover,  he 
has  no  difficulty  in  approaching  the  beast  within  easy  range, 
when,  if  the  ball  be  well  directed,  the  prey  is  usually  killed 
on  the  spot.  With  a little  precaution,  this  kind  of  sport 
may  be  conducted  without  greatly  endangering  a person’s 
safety.  - 

But  by  far  the  most  convenient  way  of  destroying  this  an- 
imal is  to  shoot  him  from  the  “ skarm”  as  he  comes  to  the 
pool  to  quench  his  thirst.  In  this  manner  I have  myself 
killed  several  scores  of  rhinoceroses. 

Occasionally  he  is  also  taken  in  pitfalls,  which  are  con- 
structed in  pretty  much  the  same  manner  as  those  for  the 
capture  of  elephants  and  other  large  game. 

He  is  not  often  pursued  on  horseback,  and  chiefly  because 
his  speed  and  endurance  are  such  that  it  is  very  difficult  to 
come  up  with  and  follow  him,  to  say  nothing  of  the  danger 
attendant  on  such  a course.  Many  a hunter,  indeed,  has 
thereby  endangered  his  life. 


382  MR.  OSWELL  AND  THE  WHITE  RHINOCEROS. 

“ Once,  as  I was  returning  from  an  elephant  chase,”  said 
Mr.  Oswell  to  me,  one  day  in  conversation,  “ I observed  a 
huge  white  rhinoceros  a short  distance  ahead.  I was  rid- 
ing a most  excellent  hunter,  the  best  and  fleetest  steed  that 
I ever  possessed  during*  my  shooting  excursions  in  Africa,  at 
the  time ; but  it  was  a rule  with  me  never  to  pursue  a rhi- 
noceros on  horseback,  and  simply  because  this  animal  is  so 
much  more  easily  approached  and.  killed  on  foot.  On  this 
occasion,  however,  it  seemed  as  if  fate  had  interfered.  Turn- 
ing to  my  after-rider,  I called  out,  6 By  Heaven ! that  fellow 
has  got  a fine  horn.  I will  have  a shot  at  him.’  With  that 
I clapped  spurs  to  my  horse,  who  soon  brought  me  alongside 
the  huge  beast,  and  the  next  instant  I lodged  a ball  in  his 
body,  but,  as  it  turned  out,  not  with  deadly  effect.  On  re- 
ceiving my  shot,  the  rhinoceros,  to  my  great  surprise,  instead 
of  seeking  safety  in  flight,  as  is  the  habit  of  this  generally 
inoffensive  animal,  suddenly  stopped  short,  then  turned  sharp- 
ly round,  and,  having  eyed  me  most  curiously  for  a second  or 
two,  walked  slowly  toward  me.  I never  dreamed  of  danger. 
Nevertheless,  I instinctively  turned  my  horse’s  head  away ; 
but,  strange  to  say,  this  creature,  usually  so  docile  and  gen- 
tle— which  the  slightest  touch  of  the  reins  would  be  sufficient 
to  guide — now  absolutely  refused  to  give  me  his  head.  When 
at  last  he  did  so,  it  was  too  late;  for,  notwithstanding  the 
rhinoceros  had  only  been  walking,  the  distance  between  us 
was  so  inconsiderable  that  by  this  time  I clearly  saw  contact 
was  unavoidable.  Indeed,  in  another  moment  I observed 
the  brute  bend  low  his  head,  and,  with  a thrust  upward, 
struck  his  horn  into  the  ribs  of  the  horse  with  such  force  as 
to  penetrate  to  the  very  saddle  on  the  opposite  side,  where  I 
felt  its  sharp  point  against  my  leg.  The  violence  of  the  blow 
was  so  tremendous  as  to  cause  the  horse  to  make  a complete 
somersault  in  the  air,  coming  heavily  down  on  his  back. 
With  regard  to  myself,  I was,  as  a matter  of  course,  violently 
precipitated  to  the  ground.  While  thus  prostrated,  I actu- 


MR.  OSWELL  AND  THE  BLACK  RHINOCEROS.  383 

ally  saw  the  horn  of  the  infuriated  brute  alongside  of  me ; 
but,  seemingly  satisfied  with  his  revenge,  without  attempting 
to  do  further  mischief,  he  started  off  at  a canter  from  the 
scene  of  action.  My  after-rider  having  by  this  time  come 
up,  I rushed  upon  him,  and,  almost  pulling  him  off  the  horse, 
leaped  into  the  saddle,  and,  without  a hat,  and  my  face 
streaming  with  blood,  was  quickly  in  pursuit  of  the  retreat- 
ing beast,  which  I soon  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  stretched 
lifeless  at  my  feet. 

“My  friend  Captain  Yardon,  by  whom  I was  accompa- 
nied on  this  journey,  soon  after  joined  me,  and,  seeing  my 
head  and  face  covered  with  blood,  at  first  imagined  me  to  be 
mortally  hurt  or  dying.  However,  with  the  exception  of  a 
blow  on  the  skull,  occasioned  by  the  stirrup-iron,  which  laid 
my  head  open  a few  inches,  I received  no  further  injury ; but 
the  horse  was  killed  on  the  spot.” 

Again  : “ On  another  occasion,  as  I was  bending  my  steps 
toward  my  camp  on  foot,  I espied,  at  no  great  distance,  two 
rhinoceroses  of  the  species  Keitloa.  They  were  feeding,  and 
slowly  approaching  me.  I immediately  couched  and  quiet- 
ly waited  their  arrival ; but,  though  they  soon  came  within 
range,  from  their  constantly  facing  me,  I was  unable  to  fire, 
well  knowing  the  uselessness  of  a shot  at  the  head.  In  a 
short  time  they  had  approached  so  close  that,  on  account  of 
the  exposed  nature  of  the  ground,  I could  neither  retreat  nor 
advance,  and  my  position  became  highly  critical.  I was 
afraid  to  fire;  for,  even  had  I succeeded  in  killing  one,  the 
other  would,  in  all  likelihood,  have  run  over  and  trampled 
me  to  death.  In  this  dilemma  the  thought  struck  me  that, 
on  account  of  their  bad  sight,  I might  possibly  save  myself 
by  trying  to  run  past  them.  No  time  was  to  be  lost ; and 
accordingly,  just  as  the  leading  animal  almost  touched  me,  I 
stood  up  and  dashed  past  it.  The  brute,  however,  was  much 
too  quick  for  me,  and  before  I had  made  good  many  paces,  I 
heard  a violent  snorting  at  my  heels,  and  had  only  time  to 


384 


MR.  O SWELL  WOUNDED A CROTCHET. 


fire  my  gun  at  random  into  his  head,  when  I felt  myself  im- 
paled on  his  horn. 

“ The  shock  stunned  me  completely.  The  first  return  to 
consciousness  was,  I recollect,  finding  myself  seated  on  one 
of  my  ponies,  and  a Cafifre  leading  it.  I had  an  indistinct 
notion  of  having  been  hunting,  and,  on  observing  the  man,  I 
asked  quickly  why  he  was  not  following  the  track  of  the  an- 
imal, when  he  mumbled  something  to  the  effect  that  it  was 
gone. 

“ By  accident  I touched  my  right  hip  with  my  hand,  and 
on  withdrawing  it,  was  astonished  to  find  it  clotted  with 
blood.  Yet  my  senses  were  still  so  confused,  and  the  side  so 
benumbed,  that  I actually  kept  feeling  and  working  the  wound 
with  my  fingers.  While  trying  to  account  for  my  strange 
position,  I observed  some  of  my  men  coming  toward  me  with 
a cartel,  and  on  asking  them  what  they  were  about,  they 
cried  out  that  they  had  come  to  fetch  my  body,  having  been 
told  that  I was  killed  by  some  animal.  The  truth  now  for 
the  first  time  broke  upon  me,  and  I was  quickly  made  aware 
of  my  crippled  condition.  The  wound  I had  received  was 
of  a very  serious  character,  and,  though  it  ultimately  healed, 
it  left  scars  behind  which  no  doubt  will  remain  to  the  day 
of  my  death.” 

We  are  fond  of  the  marvelous.  It  is  generally  received  as 
a fact  that  the  hide  of  the  rhinoceros  is  impenetrable  to  a 
bullet,  or  even  to  an  “ iron  ingot,”  as  a certain  writer  quaint- 
ly expresses  it.  But  this  is  just  as  idle  a notion,  as  regards 
the  African  species  at  least,  as  that  entertained  respecting 
the  softness  and  pliability  of  the  animal’s  horns,  for  a com- 
mon leaden  ball  will  find  its  way  through  the  hide  with  the 
greatest  facility.  It  is  true,  one  should  be  near  the  brute ; 
for,  though  I have  known  a rhinoceros  killed  at  the  distance 
of  a hundred  yards,  it  is  an  exception  to  the  rule.  Indeed, 
beyond  thirty  or  forty  paces  one  can  not  make  sure  of  the 
shot.  Under  all  circumstances,  a double  charge  of  powder 
is  desirable. 


THE  PART  TO  AIM  AT SELDOM  BLEEDS  EXTERNALLY.  385 

Though  a common  leaden  ball  may  do  the  work  well 
enough,  I would  not  recommend  it.  The  best  metal  is  spel- 
ter, which  has  almost  the  hardness  of  iron,  with  all  the  weight 
of  lead ; but  it  is  often  difficult  to  procure.  For  want  of  a 
better,  two  thirds  lead  and  one  third  solder  answers  the  pur- 
pose very  well. 

The  most  deadly  part  to  aim  at  is  just  behind  the  shoul- 
der ; a ball  through  the  centre  of  the  lobes  of  the  lungs  is 
certain  to  cause  almost  instantaneous  death.  From  the  very 
solid  structure  of  the  head,  the  great  thickness  of  the  hide 
on  that  part,  the  position  of  the  horns,  the  smallness  of  the 
brain,*  a shot  in  the  head  rarely  or  never  proves  fatal.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  breast. 

However  severely  wounded  the  rhinoceros  may  be,  he  sel- 
dom bleeds  externally.  This  is  attributable  in  part,  no  doubt, 
to  the  great  thickness  of  the  hide,  and  its  elasticity,  which 
occasions  the  hole  caused  by  the  bullet  nearly  to  close  up, 
as  also  from  the  hide  not  being  firmly  attached  to  the  body, 
but  constantly  moving.  If  the  animal  bleed  at  all,  it  is  from 
the  mouth  and  nostrils,  which  is  a pretty  sure  sign  that  it  is 
mortally  stricken,  and  the  chances  are  it  will  be  found  dead 
within  a short  distance. 

The  number  of  rhinoceroses  destroyed  annually  in  South 
Africa  is  very  considerable.  Of  this  some  idea  may  be 
formed  when  I mention  that  Messrs.  Oswell  and  Yardon 
killed  in  one  year  no  less  than  eighty-nine  of  these  animals : 
in  my  present  journey,  I myself  shot,  single-handed,  nearly 
two  thirds  of  this  amount. 

* Sparrman  says  that  the  cavity  containing  the  brains  of  a rhinoc- 
eros that  he  shot  was  only  six  inches  long,  and  four  high,  and  of  an 
oval  shape.  On  being  filled  with  peas,  it  was  found  to  hold  barely  one 
quart ; a human  skull,  measured  at  the  same  time,  did  not  require 
much  less  than  three  pints  to  fill  it. 

E 


386  DEPARTURE  FROM  GHANZE SEARCH  FOR  WATER. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Departure  from  Ghanze. — Nectar  in  the  Desert. — Difficulty  in  finding 
Water. — Arrive  at  Abeghan. — Unsuccessful  Chase. — A “ Charm.’’ 
— How  to  make  the  undrinkable  drinkable. — An  Elephant  wounded 
and  killed. — Bold  and  courageous  Dog. — Kobis. — Author  seized 
with  a singular  Malady.— Messengers  dispatched  to  the  Chief  of  the 
Lake  Ngami. — A large  troop  of  Elephants.— Author  kills  a huge 
Male. — Lions  and  Giraffe. — Author’s  hair-breadth  Escapes : from  a 
black  Rhinoceros ; from  a white  Rhinoceros ; from  two  troops  of 
Elephants ; he  shoots  a couple  of  his  Adversaries. — Where  to  aim 
at  an  Elephant. 

Haying  enjoyed  a good  deal  of  shooting,  and  feasted  our- 
selves and  Bushmen  on  rhinoceros  flesh  to  our  hearts’  content, 
we  left  Ghanze  on  the  23d  of  June.  The  first  portion  of  the 
country  through  which  our  road  led  was  very  thorny ; but 
the  bush  gradually  opened,  and  we  journeyed  with  more  ease. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  day  after  our  departure  I caused 
my  horse  to  be  saddled,  and  rode  off  to  look  for  water. 
About  noon  I reached  a hollow,  of  a similar  nature  as 
Ghanze,  but  on  a smaller  scale.  I thought  I perceived  indi- 
cations of  the  existence  of  water;  and  having  “hoppled”  the 
steed,  went  in  search  of  it.  The  elephants,  however,  had  so 
trampled  the  place,  that,  though  I could  not  doubt  of  water 
being  there,  I soon  found  that  it  was  only  to  be  had  by  a 
vast  deal  of  labor. 

While  reflecting  on  what  was  best  to  do,  whether  to  re- 
main and  clear  out  the  pit,  or  to  push  on  in  hopes  of  finding 
another  watering-place,  I observed  several  small  birds  flying 
in  and  out  at  a small  crevice  in  the  limestone  rock.  Run- 
ning to  the  spot,  I discovered  a narrow  circular  aperture, 
about  two  feet  broad,  and  perhaps  twice  as  much  in  depth, 


NECTAR THE  “ EYE”  OF  A SPRING DISAPPOINTMENT.  387 

with  something  at  the  bottom  reflecting  light.  Taking  for 
granted  that  it  was  water  which  thus  shone,  and  being  tor- 
mented with  thirst,  I leaped  into  the  hole  and  greedily  swal- 
lowed a large  quantity.  I was  too  eager  to  be  able  to  dis- 
tinguish its  taste,  but,  having  somewhat  slaked  my  burning 
thirst,  my  palate  resumed  its  function,  and  I thought  I had 
never  experienced  so  abominable  a flavor.  Imagine  my  hor- 
ror when,  taking  a small  portion  in  the  hollow  of  my  hand 
and  holding  it  up  to  the  light,  I found  I had  been  drinking 
blood , mixed  with  the  refuse  of  some  wild  animal ! I shall 
never  forget  the  loathing  I felt  on  making  this  discovery,  and, 
though  my  stomach  was  presently  relieved  of  its  nauseous 
contents,  I long  retained  a qualmish  sensation.  The  myste- 
ry was,  however,  cleared  up.  On  a more  close  examination 
of  the  aperture  in  question,  it  was  found  that  a herd  of  zebras 
had,  like  myself,  been  looking  for  water,  and,  in  so  doing,  one 
of  them  had  fallen  in,  and  been  found  and  killed  by  the  Bush- 
men. Hence  the  blood  and  offal  of  the  unfortunate  animal. 

As  soon  as  the  men  arrived  with  the  cattle,  every  person 
who  could  be  spared  was  employed  in  cleaning  out  the  hole 
where  I had  at  first  seen  indications  of  water.  Large  frag- 
ments of  rock,  which  the  bulky  forms  of  elephants  and  other 
gigantic  animals  had  pushed  into  the  cavity,  were  removed 
after  immense  exertions.  Occasionally,  in  displacing  a firm- 
ly-imbedded stone  or  piece  of  wood,  the  pure  liquid  would 
gush  forth  with  great  vigor,  and  we  flattered  ourselves  that 
we  had  found  the  “ eye”  of  a spring,  but  the  next  instant  all 
our  hopes  vanished.  After  eight  or  nine  hours’  hard  work, 
our  best  endeavors  to  discover  any  steady  supply  of  water 
proved  abortive.  The  little  we  did  obtain— sufficient  for  the 
horse  and  dogs — was  of  such  questionable  quality  that,  thirsty 
as  we  were,  it  was  with  the  utmost  repugnance  we  could  pre- 
vail on  ourselves  to  swallow  a few  mouthfuls. 

At  break  of  day  the  next  morning  we  renewed  our  labors, 
but  with  no  better  success.  I now  became  anxious  for  the 


388 


WATER  DISCOVERED A GLORIOUS  NIGHT, 


safety  of  the  cattle,  which  began  to  show  symptoms  of  dis- 
tress. Mounting  my  horse,  and  guided  by  two  active  Bush- 
men, I rode  briskly  in  the  direction  of  the  Lake,  giving  or- 
ders to  my  men  to  continue  their  exertions  during  the  remain- 
der of  the  day ; but,  should  they  not  succeed  in  obtaining  a 
sufficiency  of  drink  for  the  cattle  by  the  next  morning,  they 
were  to  follow  on  my  tracks. 

I had  ridden  long.  The  sun  had  already  sunk  below  the 
tree-tops,  and  yet  no  water.  The  Bushmen,  however,  gave 
me  to  understand  by  signs  that  it  was  not  far  off,  and  the 
number  of  wild-beast-tracks  gave  weight  to  their  assertion. 
At  last  the  noisy  chattering  of  Guinea-fowls,  the  cooing  of 
doves,  and  the  screams  of  paroquets  broke  on  my  ear,  and 
indicated  a more  favorable  vicinity.  Putting  spurs  to  my 
horse,  I struck  into  a large  “ game-path,”  and  just  as  the  sun 
was  sinking  below  the  horizon  I came  alongside  a large  sheet 
of  clear  water.  I felt  truly  thankful,  and  only  wanted  my 
own  people  and  cattle  to  complete  my  happiness.  This  place, 
according  to  my  interpreter,  was  called  Abeghan. 

At  dark  I tied  up  my  horse  some  little  distance  from  the 
water,  cut  him  an  ample  supply  of  grass  with  my  hunting- 
knife,  and,  having  struck  a light  for  the  Bushmen,  and  given 
them,  as  a reward  for  their  services,  the  piece  of  flesh  we 
carried  with  us,  I shouldered  my  rifle,  and  proceeded  to  the 
fountain  with  a view  of  procuring  something  for  the  larder. 
It  was  a glorious  night.  The  sky  was  dark,  but  studded 
with  innumerable  twinkling  stars  reflected  in  the  watery 
mirror  below.  For  some  fifty  paces  the  locality  was  tol- 
erably free  from  bushes,  and  on  one  side  the  prospect  ex- 
tended nearly  a quarter  of  a mile  through  an  avenue  lined 
on  either  side  with  noble  Damara  “ parent  trees.”  Else- 
where the  darkness  was  impenetrable.  Silence,  like  that 
of  the  sepulchre,  reigned  in  this  remote  solitude,  relieved 
at  long  intervals  by  the  hyaena  and  the  jackal  lapping  the 
water,  and  the  distant  grunting  of  the  rhinoceros.  The 


BAD  LUCK A CHARM TIMBO. 


389 


latter,  however,  took  care  not  to  come  within  range  of  the 
rifle. 

At  the  return  of  daylight,  having  then  been  already  twen- 
ty-four hours  without  food,  I felt  very  hungry,  and  hastened 
back  to  the  Bushmen  to  see  whether  they  had  left  any  of  the 
flesh  I had  given  them  ; but  I might  as  well  have  searched 
the  dens  of  ravenous  wolves  as  the  lair  of  these  starved  “ chil- 
dren of  the  desert.”  Indeed,  they  looked  very  crestfallen 
when  I announced  my  bad  luck. 

Fearing  my  men  might  possibly  delay  in  following  me,  I 
wrote  a few  hurried  lines  in  my  note-book,  and  tearing  out 
the  leaf,  handed  it  to  one  of  the  guides  with  the  intimation 
that  he  must  hasten  back  whence  he  came ; but,  having  nev- 
er seen  a piece  of  paper  before,  he  received  it  at  first  with 
caution,  and,  taking  it  between  two  of  his  fingers,  began 
blowing  on  it,  thinking  probably  it  was  a kind  of  “ charm” 
for  better  luck.  Seeing  me  smile,  he  took  courage  and  blew 
still  harder.  This  was  too  much,  and  I burst  into  a roar  of 
laughter,  in  which  I was  heartily  joined  by  my  tawny  friend. 
However,  after  numerous  signs  and  gestures,  I made  him  com- 
prehend my  wishes,  and  off  he  started  to  meet  the  caravan. 

After  another  twelve  hours’  fasting  and  waiting,  and  just 
as  it  was  getting  dark,  I had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  whole 
party  arrive  safely.  They  had  succeeded  in  procuring  enough 
water  for  almost  all  the  oxen. 

To  guard  against  thirst  by  the  way,  the  men  had  brought 
two  wooden  kegs  of  water  from  the  last  halting-place.  See- 
ing Timbo  about  to  take  his  fill  from  one  of  the  vessels  in 
question,  I observed  to  him  that  there  was  surely  no  longer 
any  necessity  to  partake  of  such  villainous  stuff.  He  never- 
theless drank,  exclaiming,  “ Master,  the  water  is  capital!” 
“ Nonsense,”  I ejaculated,  skeptically,  “ you  don’t  mean  to 
say  that  that  abominable  fluid  is  good?”  “ Well,”  he  rejoined, 
“ if  master  won’t  believe  me,  he  better  try  it  himself.”  Less 
from  any  faith  in  what  he  said  than  from  curiosity,  I did 


390 


AN  IRREPARABLE  ACCIDENT. 


taste  it,  and,  truly  enough,  it  was  “ capital.”  Even  the 
smell  had  vanished.  Every  body  agreed  in  praising  its  ex- 
cellence. I could  not  account  for  so  great  a marvel,  but 
supposed  that  under  the  influence  of  the  sun  the  water  had 
undergone  some  chemical  change.  In  the  course  of  twelve 
hours,  four  gallons  of  turbid  water  had,  without  any  appar- 
ent cause,  been  converted  into  a fluid  as  bright  and  sweet  as 
was  ever  drawn  from  fresh  spring. 

On  leaving  the  pestiferous  fountain,  I intrusted  young 
Bonfield  with  my  watch,  in  order  that  he  might  ascertain 
the  number  of  hours  they  were  on  the  road.  On  again  meet- 
ing the  lad,  he  told  me  in  a flurried  manner  that  he  thought 
there  was  something  the  matter  with  the  “ piece,”  as  it  would 
not  go  properly.  The  truth  at  once  flashed  across  me.  In 
winding  it  up,  he  had  forcibly  pushed  it  the  wrong  way,  and 
thus  made  it  useless.  I can  not  describe  my  feelings  on  as- 
certaining this  fact.  My  chronometer  and  another  watch 
had  some  time  previously  ceased  to  act.  This  was  my  last 
time-piece.  I had  no  longer  the  means  of  going  on  with  my 
observations.  Latitudes  I could  still  manage,  but  as  for 
longitudes,  the  most  important  part,  it  was  out  of  the  ques- 
tion— at  least  I thought  so  at  the  time.  I had  indulged  in 
the  hope  of  being  able  to  settle  the  position  of  the  Lake. 

I was  totally  unacquainted  with  the  mechanism  of  a 
watch ; but  necessity  has  no  law,  and,  as  a last  chance,  I 
determined  to  pull  it  to  pieces,  in  order  to  ascertain  the 
cause  of  its  stopping.  Twice  I did  so,  and  twice  I success- 
fully put  it  together,  but  it  would  not  go  properly.  / I dis- 
sected it  a third  time,  but  was  even  less  fortunate  than  be- 
fore, for  the  chain  snapped  in  two  places.  Nothing  daunted, 
however,  I procured  a very  fine,  well-dried  gut,  with  which 
I tried  to  splice  it ; but  it  is  easy  to  imagine  the  result.  I 
believe  at  that  moment  I would  have  freely  given  the  best- 
half  of  what  I possessed  in  this  world — and  that,  perhaps, 
after  all,  was  not  much — for  a good  strong  watch. 


AN  ELEPHANT  WOUNDED COURAGEOUS  DOG.  391 

The  second  night  after  my  arrival  at  Abeghan,  and  when 
lying  in  wait  near  the  water  for  wild  animals,  I was  surprised 
by  three  huge  bull-elephants,  whose  approach  had  been  so 
silent  that,  before  I was  aware  of  their  presence,  they  were 
within  ten  paces  of  me.  I was  ambushed  in  a very  exposed 
place,  but  nevertheless  stoutly  held  my  ground,  and,  taking  a 
steady  aim  at  the  fore  leg  of  the  leader,  fired.  As  he  wheeled 
about  I saluted  him  with  the  contents  of  the  second  barrel. 
He  gave  a loud  shriek,  and,  curling  up  his  trunk,  trotted 
quickly  away.  The  next  day  we  followed  many  a weary 
mile  on  his  track.  He  had  separated  from  the  rest ; but  we 
were  unable  to  overtake  him.  Some  time  afterward,  how- 
ever, I heard  of  his  death.  The  Bushmen  brought  the  tusks. 

The  same  evening  I shot  a couple  of  rhinoceroses.  One 
of  them,  on  receiving  my  ball,  made  a headlong  charge,  and 
was  so  close  upon  me  that,  to  avoid  actual  contact,  I threw 
myself  backward  and  fell  to  the  ground.  He  then  ran  a few 
hundred  yards,  when  he  came  to  a stand.  At  break  of  day 
my  men  went  on  his  trail.  He  had  still  strength  enough  to 
make  a dash  at  them,  and  would  probably  have  laid  hold  of 
some  of  them,  had  not  a small  bitch  (half  terrier  and  half 
bull  dog),  called  44  Venus”  (in  derision  of  her  ugliness),  caught 
the  enraged  animal  by  the  lower  lip,  where  she  stuck  with 
such  tenacity  that  the  rhinoceros,  with  all  his  fury,  was  un- 
able to  shake  her  off.  She  only  relinquished  her  hold  when 
her  huge  antagonist  was  fairly  laid  prostrate  by  a ball. 

But  the  sagacity  of  this  favorite  dog  was  as  great  as  her 
courage.  Being  now  in  a game  country,  all  sorts  of  beasts 
of  prey  abounded,  more  especially  jackals,  which  might  be 
seen  running  about  by  dozens.  In  order  not  to  frighten  the 
elephants  and  other  large  animals,  we  were  in  the  habit  of 
encamping  some  little  way  from  the  water,  to  which  Miss 
44  Venus”  regularly  resorted  to  bathe  and  drink.  On  perceiv- 
ing a jackal,  she  instantly  crouched,  looking  very  timid. 
54  Reynard,”  mistaking  her  posture  as  an  indication  of  fear, 


392  “venus’s”  sagacity — reach  kobis — good  news. 

and  probably  thinking  that,  from  her  diminutive  size,  she 
would  prove  an  easy  conquest,  boldly  approached  his  sup- 
posed victim.  But  he  had  reckoned  without  mine  host;  for 
the  instant  the  cunning  dog  found  her  antagonist  sufficiently 
near,  she  leaped  like  a cat  at  his  throat,  and  once  there,  the 
beast  had  no  chance.  She  then  returned  to  camp,  where  her 
contented  looks  and  bloody  jaws  soon  attracted  the  attention 
of  the  men,  who  immediately  went  on  her  track  and  brought 
the  jackal,  who  was  valued  on  account  of  his  fur. 

Having  dried  some  of  the  flesh  of  the  rhinoceroses,  and 
given  the  rest  to  the  hungry  Bushmen,  who  had  already  be- 
gun to  flock  round  us,  we  set  out  for  Kobis,  which  we  reach- 
ed after  less  than  two  hours’  journeying.  This  place,  owing 
probably  to  heavy  rains  at  no  very  distant  period,  was  a mag- 
nificent sheet  of  water  (a  glorious  sight  to  our  thirsty  imag- 
ination), swarming  with  geese  and  ducks.  From  the  num- 
ber of  well  and  freshly  trodden  paths,  we  conjectured  it  to 
be  the  great  stronghold  of  game ; nor  were  we  disappointed. 
I therefore  determined  to  devote  a few  days  here  to  shoot- 
ing, and  selected  my  camp  with  caution  and  to  the  best  of 
my  judgment. 

I had  not  been  long  settled  in  my  new  quarters  when 
some  Bushmen  made  their  appearance,  carrying  bundles  of 
reeds  (intended  as  shafts  for  their  arrows),  which  they  had 
brought  from  the  Lake  Ngami,  or  “ Tlannis,”  as  they  called 
it  in  their  language.  They  had  been  five  days  on  the  road, 
but  said  it  might  be  reached  in  two.  This  was  cheerful 
news.  But  I was  nearly  foiled  in  my  plans  on  the  threshold 
of  the  object  of  my  ambition. 

Having  late  one  night,  with  much  danger  and  difficulty, 
succeeded  in  dispatching  an  enormously  large  white  rhinoc- 
eros, I fell  asleep  toward  morning,  overpowered  by  the  ex- 
ertion and  fatigue  of  several  previous  nights’  watching.  I 
was  awakened  by  a smarting  sensation  a little  below  the  left 
knee ; and  when  I reached  my  people  the  pain  had  become 


SINGULAR  MALADY EMBASSADORS  APPOINTED.  393 

intolerable.  I was  compelled  to  go  to  bed  immediately.  The 
next  day  the  affected  part  was  much  inflamed.  The  skin 
became  so  tender  that  I could  not  bear  even  the  touch  of  my 
linen ; and  when  little  George  applied  (though  with  the  ten- 
derest  care)  the  lotion  I had  prescribed,  I screamed  with  an- 
guish. No  position  suited  me.  If  I was  compelled  to  change, 
which  could  only  be  effected  by  another  person’s  assistance, 
the  movement  was  agonizing. 

Apprehending  that  my  illness  might  be  of  some  duration, 
and  knowing  but  too  well  the  character  of  savages,  I deemed 
it  advisable  to  dispatch  one  or  two  of  my  men  with  a few 
trifling  presents  to  Lecholetebe,  the  chief  of  the  Bechuanas 
and  the  other  people  who  inhabited  the  borders  of  the  Lake 
Ngami,  to  inform  him  of  my  arrival  in  his  neighborhood  and 
the  motive  of  my  journey.  Timbo,  and  Piet  the  Griqua, 
were  selected  to  carry  out  my  wishes. 

While  anxiously  awaiting  their  return,  we  once  more  ran 
short  of  flesh.  I possessed  a few  sheep,  it  is  true,  but  I was 
afraid  to  kill  them,  not  knowing  what  the  future  had  in  store 
for  me. 

I therefore  dispersed  my  men  over  the  surrounding  coun- 
try ; but,  though  they  met  with  game  in  abundance,  from 
mismanagement  and  bad  shooting  they  were  unable  to  bag  a 
single  animal. 

One  evening  I desperately  resolved  to  go  to  the  water  my- 
self, in  the  hope  of  succeeding  better.  Accordingly,  I ordered 
my  servants  to  prepare  a “ skarm,”  and  to  carry  me  there, 
taking  the  chance  of  being  run  over  or  gored  by  elephants  or 
rhinoceroses ; for,  in  my  disabled  state,  it  was  impossible, 
should  any  animal  charge,  to  get  out  of  its  way.  Seeing  my 
helpless  condition,  the  men  remonstrated,  but  I was  resolved 
to  go,  and  fortune  favored  me. 

I had  patiently  waited  till  nigh  morning  without  seeing 
any  thing  but  hyaenas  and  jackals.  I believe  these  creatures 
knew  I would  not  hurt  them,  for  they  approached  within  a 

R 2 


394 


AUTHOR  SHOOTS  AN  ELEPHANT. 


very  few  paces,  staring  and  laughing  at  me  in  the  most  im- 
pudent manner.  I threw  gravel  pebbles  at  them,  but  this 
only  served  to  increase  their  mockery.  I could  stand  it  no 
longer,  but  hurled  my  camp-chair  at  their  heads,  when  they 
quickly  betook  themselves  to  flight. 

Scarcely  had  they  made  their  exit  than  I heard  the  heavy 
tramp  of  elephants.  At  this  sound  my  heart  beat  violently, 
but  it  was  only  momentarily.  The  next  instant  I recovered 
my  self-possession.  Pushing  my  gun  gently  over  the  “ skarm,’  ’ 
I quietly  waited  (without  daring  to  think  of  my  poor  leg)  the 
approach  of  the  giants.  Nearer  and  nearer  they  came ; their 
steps  were  more  distinct  and  measured ; confused  forms  were 
seen  advancing  among  the  trees.  Gradually  they  assumed 
shape ; and,  lo ! suddenly  a huge  elephant  stood  out  in  bold 
relief  against  the  sky  line;  then  another,  and  another,  till 
the  ground  became  alive  with  their  numbers.  There  must 
have  been  at  least  fifty.  They  hesitated  for  a moment,  but 
then  came  swiftly  on  by  a broad  path  at  right  angles  to  and 
within  a dozen  feet  of  my  place  of  concealment.  I scarcely 
dared  to  breathe.  The  leader  stood  conspicuously  forth  from 
the  rest,  and,  as  a matter  of  course,  I selected  him  for  a 
mark.  Having  allowed  the  huge  creature  to  pass  a few  paces 
beyond  me,  so  as  to  have  an  opportunity  of  a second  shot,  I 
gave  a low  whistle,  which  instantly  arrested  the  attention  of 
the  brutes,  who,  partially  raising  their  huge  ears,  and  de- 
scribing with  their  trunks  eccentric  circles  through  the  air, 
seemed  anxiously  to  inquire  the  cause  of  the  strange  noise. 
This  was  my  opportunity ; and,  in  an  instant,  the  forest  re- 
sounded with  the  report  of  the  gun.  Curling  up  his  trunk, 
the  stricken  animal  uttered  a faint  cry,  and,  turning  sharply 
round,  staggered  back  whence  he  came.  It  was  clear  the 
wound  he  had  received  was  mortal ; but,  to  make  more  sure, 
I gave  him  the  contents  of  my  second  barrel,  though  appar- 
ently without  effect.  Having  reached  the  skirts  of  the  wood, 
he  tottered,  and,  plunging  violently  forward,  came  heavily 
to  the  ground. 


THE  CAMP  ALARMED REJOICINGS. 


395 


I had  eagerly  watched  the  scene ; and  now,  strange  to  re- 
late, that  the  danger  and  excitement  was  over,  I was  seized 
with  a violent  tremor.  After  a time,  however,  when  my 
nerves  had  become  somewhat  composed,  I pushed  down  part 
of  the  inclosure,  and,  though  crippled,  crawled  on  all  fours 
up  to  the  carcass.  Having  ascertained  that  life  was  extinct, 
I scrambled  on  to  the  back  of  the  defunct  elephant,  where, 
like  a schoolboy,  I seated  myself  in  triumph. 

By  this  time  the  day  began  to  dawn.  Being  within  hear- 
ing of  the  camp,  and  feeling  chilly,  I shouted  to  my  people 
to  bring  some  fire.  But,  though  I received  no  answer,  I 
could  distinctly  hear  them  in  earnest  conversation,  as  if  dis- 
cussing some  weighty  matter.  I shouted  again  and  again, 
but  with  no  better  success.  Being  convinced  they  must  have 
heard  me,  I was  puzzled  and  vexed  at  not  receiving  a reply. 
At  last,  after  having  waited  fully  a quarter  of  an  hour,  I ob- 
served a number  of  flickering  lights,  resembling  so  many 
will-o’-the-wisps,  and  soon  afterward  I was  joined  by  my 
men.  The  mystery  of  their  unaccountable  silence  to  me  was 
presently  explained.  It  appeared  that  on  first  hearing  my 
shouts,  which  they  took  to  be  cries  of  distress,  they  were 
struck  with  fear  and  astonishment ; and,  as  the  shouts  pro- 
ceeded from  a rather  different  quarter  to  that  where  they  had 
left  me  on  the  previous  evening,  they  were  led  to  suppose  that 
some  savage  beast  had  carried  me  away.  Their  own  loud 
talking,  it  seemed,  had  arisen  in  debating  in  what  manner 
they  could  best  assist  me.  I could  not  help  saying  to  myself, 
“ How  brave  and  considerate !” 

There  was  now  no  want  of  flesh,  and  the  result  was  great 
rejoicings.  The  report  of  my  success  spread  like  wildfire, 
and  the  animal  was  scarcely  cold  before  scores  of  hungry 
Bushmen — -like  so  many  vultures — had  assembled  to  partici- 
pate in  the  feast.  Before  noon,  with  the  exception  of  the 
sternum,  the  head,  and  some  of  the  larger  bones,  every  ves- 
tige of  the  giant  beast  had  disappeared.  The  way  in  which 


396 


LIONS  AND  GIRAFFE. 


the  Bushmen  gorge  on  the  carcass  of  elephants  is  very  dis- 
gusting ; and  the  process  of  cutting  it  up,  in  which  they  show 
no  little  method  and  dexterity,  is  nearly  equally  so. 

Elephants,  rhinoceroses,  gnoos,  zebras,  &c.,  were  now  shot 
almost  nightly.  Giraffes  were  not  very  numerous  in  this 
neighborhood,  but  occasionally  they  made  their  appearance 
at  the  pool,  when  I managed  to  get  a shot.* 

Late  one  evening,  in  another  part  of  the  country,  I had 
badly  wounded  a lion,  and  at  an  early  hour  on  the  succeed- 
ing morning  was  following  the  bloody  tracks  of  the  beast,  in 
the  hope  of  putting  an  end  to  his  career.  Presently  we 
came  upon  the  u spoor”  of  a whole  troop  of  lions,  as  also 
that  of  a solitary  giraffe.  So  many  tracks  confused  us ; and 
while  endeavoring  to  pick  out  from  the  rest  those  of  the 
wounded  lion,  I observed  my  native  attendants  suddenly 
rush  forward,  and  the  next  instant  the  jungle  re-echoed  with 
shouts  of  triumph.  Thinking  they  had  discovered  the  lion 
we  were  in  pursuit  of,  I also  hurried  forward ; but  imagine 
my  surprise  when,  emerging  into  an  opening  in  the  jungle,  1 
saw,  not  a dead  lion,  as  I expected,  but  five  living  lions  (two 
males  and  three  females)}  two  of  whom  were  in  the  act  of 
pulling  down  a splendid  giraffe,  the  other  three  watching, 
close  at  hand,  and  with  devouring  looks,  the  deadly  strife. 
The  beautiful  illustration  facing  the  title-page  of  this  volume 
is  an  exact  representation  of  this  most  interesting  incident. 

The  scene  was  of  so  imposing  a nature  that,  for  the  mo- 
ment, I forgot  I carried  a gun.  The  natives,  however,  in 
anticipation  of  a “ glorious  gorge,”  dashed  madly  forward, 
and,  with  the  most  piercing  shrieks  and  yells,  compelled  the 
lions  to  beat  a hasty  retreat. 

When  I reached  the  giraffe,  now  stretched  at  full  length 
on  the  sand,  it  made  a few  ineffectual  attempts  to  raise  its 

* It  was  my  intention  to  introduce  at  length  the  history  of  this  ani- 
mal ; hut  being  (as  already  alluded  to  in  a preceding  chapter)  con- 
fined as  to  space,  I must,  though  reluctantly,  abandon  the  idea. 


OTHER  ANIMALS  DREAD  THE  ELEPHANT. 


397 


neck ; its  body  heaved  and  quivered  for  a moment,  and  the 
next  instant  the  poor  animal  was  dead.  It  had  received 
several  deep  gashes  about  the  flanks  and  chest,  caused  by  the 
claws  and  teeth  of  its  fierce  assailants.  The  strong  and 
tough  muscles  of  the  neck  were  also  bitten  through. 

All  thought  of  pursuing  the  wounded  lion  was  now  out 
of  the  question.  The  natives  remained  gorging  on  the  carcass 
of  the  camelopard  until  it  was  devoured.  A day  or  two 
afterward,  however,  I had  the  good  fortune  to  fall  in  with 
my  royal  antagonist,  and  finished  him  without  much  diffi- 
culty. 

At  Kobis  and  the  neighborhood  I enjoyed  shooting  to  per- 
fection.* But  I had  many  hair-breadth  escapes  from  ele- 
phants and  rhinoceroses. 

* The  cut  on  the  next  page  represents  one  of  those  numerous  and 
exciting  scenes  that  I have  witnessed  at  night,  at  the  water,  when 
lying  in  ambush  for  game.  There  is  one  fact — a fact  that  has  hitherto 
escaped  the  attention  of  the  African  sportsman — connected  with  this 
illustration  that  makes  it  particularly  interesting,  and  which  induced 
me  to  designate  it  “The  Approach  of  Elephants.”  The  animals  are 
just  appearing  above  the  distant  hill.  If  the  spring  or  pool,  as  the 
case  may  he,  he  of  small  extent,  all  the  animals  present  will  invariably 
retire  from  the  water  as  soon  as  they  are  aware  of  the  presence  of  the 
elephants,  of  whom  they  appear  to  have  an  instinctive  dread,  and  will 
remain  at  a respectful  distance  until  the  giants  have  quenched  their 
thirst.  Thus,  long  before  I have  seen,  or  even  heard  the  elephants, 
I have  been  warned  of  their  approach  by  the  symptoms  of  uneasiness 
displayed  by  such  animals  as  happened  to  be  drinking  at  the  time. 
The  giraffe,  for  instance,  begins  to  sway  his  long  neck  to  and  fro ; 
the  zebra  utters  subdued,  plaintive  cries  ; the  gnoo  glides  away  with  a 
noiseless  step ; and  even  the  ponderous  and  quarrelsome  black  rhinoc- 
eros, when  he  has  time  for  reflection,  will  pull  up  short  in  his  walk  to 
listen ; then,  turning  round,  he  listens  again,  and,  if  he  feel  satisfied 
that  his  suspicions  are  correct,  he  invariably  makes  off,  usually  giving 
vent  to  his  fear  or  ire  by  one  of  his  vicious  and  peculiar  snorts.  Once, 
it  is  true,  I saw  a rhinoceros  drinking  together  with  a herd  of  seven 
male  elephants ; but  then  he  was  of  the  white  species,  and,  besides,  I 
do  not  believe  that  either  party  knew  of  each  other’s  proximity. 


898 


THE  APPROACH  OP  ELEPHANTS. 


THE  APPROACH  OF  ELEPHANTS. 


HAIR-BREADTH  ESCAPE  FROM  A RHINOCEROS.  399 

One  fine  moonlight  night,  when  snugly  ensconced  in  my 
“skarm,”  and  contemplating  the  strange  but  picturesque 
scene  before  me,  my  reverie  was  interrupted  by  the  inhar- 
monious grunting  of  a black  rhinoceros.  He  was  evidently 
in  bad  humor,  for,  as  he  emerged  from  among  the  trees  into 
more  open  ground,  I observed  him  madly  charging  any  thing 
and  every  thing  that  he  encountered,  such  as  bushes,  stones, 
&c.  Even  the  whitened  skulls  and  skeletons  of  his  own 
species,  lying  scattered  about  on  the  ground,  were  attacked 
with  inconceivable  fury.  I was  much  amused  at  his  eccentric 
pastime ; but,  owing  to  the  openness  of  the  ground,  and  the 
quantity  of  the  limestone  thereabout,  which  made  objects 
more  distinct,  he  was  not  easy  of  approach.  However,  after 
divesting  myself  of  my  shoes,  and  all  the  more  conspicuous 
parts  of  my  dress,  I managed  to  crawl — pushing  my  gun  be- 
fore me — to  within  a short  distance  of  the  snorting  beast. 
As  he  was  advancing  in  a direct  line  toward  me,  I did  not 
like  to  fire,  because  one  has  little  chance  of  killing  the  rhi- 
noceros when  in  that  position.  Having  approached  to  within 
a few  feet  of  me,  his  attention  was  attracted,  and  suddenly 
uttering  one  of  those  strange  “ blowing”  noises  so  peculiar 
to  the  beast  when  alarmed  or  enraged,  he  prepared  to  treat 
me  in  a similar  manner  to  the  stones  and  skulls  he  had  just 
so  unceremoniously  tossed  about.  Not  a moment  was  to  be 
lost ; and,  in  self-defense,  I fired  at  his  head.  I shall  never 
forget  the  confusion  of  the  animal  on  receiving  the  contents 
of  my  gun.  Springing  nearly  perpendicularly  into  the  air, 
and  to  the  height  of  many  feet,  he  came  down  again  with  a 
thump  that  seemed  to  make  the  earth  tremble ; then  plung- 
ing violently  forward  (in  doing  which  he  all  but  trampled  on 
me),  he  ran  round  and  round  the  spot  for  fully  five  minutes, 
enveloping  every  object  in  a cloud  of  dust.  At  last  he  dashed 
into  the  wood  and  was  hidden  from  view.  Not  finding  blood 
on  his  tracks,  I had  no  reason  to  suppose  he  was  much  hurt. 
My  notion  is,  the  bullet  struck  his  horn,  partially  stunning 


400 


ESCAPE  FROM  A TROOP  OF  ELEPHANTS. 


him  with  its  jarring  violence.  Had  my  gun  missed  fire 
when  he  charged,  it  is  more  than  probable  I should  have 
been  impaled. 

Again  : having  on  a certain  night  stalked  to  within  a 
few  paces  of  a huge  white  rhinoceros  (a  female  as  it  proved), 
I put  a ball  in  her  shoulder,  but  it  nearly  cost  me  dear; 
for,  guided  by  the  flash  of  the  gun,  she  rushed  upon  me  with 
such  fury  that  I had  only  time  to  throw  myself  on  my  back, 
in  which  position  I remained  motionless.  This  saved  my 
life ; for,  not  observing  me,  she  came  to  a sudden  halt  just  as 
her  feet  were  about  to  crush  my  body.  She  was  so  near  to 
me  that  I felt  the  saliva  from  her  mouth  trickle  on  my  face ! 
I was  in  an  agony  of  suspense,  though,  happily,  only  for  a 
moment ; for,  having  impatiently  sniffed  the  air,  she  wheeled 
about,  and  made  off  at  her  utmost  speed.  I then  saw,  for 
the  first  time,  that  her  calf  was  in  company,  and  at  once 
recognized  the  pair  as  old  acquaintances,  and  as  specially 
vicious  animals. 

On  another  occasion,  when  the  night  was  very  dark,  I 
crept  to  within  a short  distance  of  seven  bull  elephants,  and 
was  endeavoring  to  pick  out  the  largest,  when  I was  startled 
by  a peculiar  rumbling  noise  close  behind  me.  Springing 
to  my  feet,  I perceived,  to  my  surprise  and  alarm,  a semi- 
circle of  female  elephants,  with  their  calves,  bearing  down 
upon  me.  My  position  was  critical,  being  between  two  fires, 
so  to  say,  and  I had  no  other  choice  than  either  to  plunge 
into  the  pool,  which  could  only  be  crossed  by  swimming,  in 
the  face  of  the  male  elephants,  or  to  break  through  the  ranks 
of  the  females.  I adopted  the  latter  alternative,  but  first 
fired  at  the  nearest  of  the  seven  bulls  ; and  then,  and  without 
a moment’s  delay,  I rushed  on  the  more  open  rank  of  the 
female  phalanx,  uttering,  at  the  time,  loud  shouts.  My  cries 
caused  a momentary  panic  among  the  animals,  of  which  I 
took  advantage  and  slipped  out  between  them,  discharging 
my  second  barrel  into  the  shoulder  of  the  nearest  as  I passed 


TWO  KILLED  IN  ONE  NIGHT— WHERE  TO  AIM.  . 401 

her.  No  sooner,  however,  had  I effected  my  escape,  than 
the  whole  herd  made  a simultaneous  rush  at  me,  and  trump- 
eted so  shrilly  as  to  cause  every  man  at  the  camp,  as  I learn- 
ed afterward,  to  start  out  of  his  sleep.  Fortunately,  the 
darkness  prevented  the  beasts  from  following  me ; and,  the 
jungle  being  close  by,  I was  soon  in  safety.  In  my  precipi- 
tate flight,  however,  I severely  lacerated  my  feet ; for,  when 
stalking  the  elephants,  I had  taken  off  my  shoes,  that  I might 
the  better  steal  upon  them. 

When,  after  a while,  I ventured  out  of  my  place  of  con- 
cealment, I found  every  thing  quiet ; only  one  solitary  ele- 
phant remained.  Having  approached  within  a short  dis- 
tance, I could  distinctly  see  him  laving  water  on  to  his  sides 
with  his  trunk.  I immediately  suspected  he  belonged  to  the 
troop  of  seven  bulls,  and  was  the  one  that  I had  fired  at. 
Seating  myself  right  across  his  path,  I quietly  watched  his 
proceedings.  After  a time  I saw  him,  as  I thought,  moving 
off  in  an  opposite  direction ; but  I was  mistaken,  for  in  an- 
other instant  his  towering  form  loomed  above  me.  It  was 
too  late  to  get  out  of  his  way ; so,  quickly  raising  myself  on 
one  knee,  I took  a steady  aim  at  his  fore  leg.  On  receiving 
the  ball  he  uttered  the  most  plaintive  cries,  and,  rushing  past 
me,  soon  disappeared  in  the  neighboring  forest.  The  next 
afternoon  he  was  discovered  dead  within  rifle-shot  of  the 
water.  It  had  been  a very  successful  night,  for  a fine  female 
elephant  had  also  fallen  to  my  other  shot.* 

* I lost  many  noble  beasts  from  the  small  calibre  of  my  guns,  which 
did  not  carry  more  than  fourteen  and  seventeen  balls  respectively  to 
the  pound.  This  was  more  especially  the  case  as  regarded  the  ele- 
phants ; and  it  was  not  Until  after  a time,  and  when  they  had  become 
scarce  and  shy,  that  I found  out  the  way  of  bringing  them  down  with 
any  certainty  at  one  or  two  shots.  I found  the  best  part  to  aim  at 
(when  shooting  by  night)  was  the  shoulder,  either  behind  or  in  the 
centre,  near  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  ear.  Another  good  point,  pro- 
vided the  gun  be  of  large  calibre,  is  to  fire  at  the  leg,  which  once 
broken,  the  animal,  in  almost  every  instance,  is  completely  at  the  mer- 
cy of  the  hunter. 


402 


TIMBO’  S RETURN— LECHOLETEBE LOGIC. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Timbo’s  Return  from  the  Lake ; liis  Logic ; he  takes  the  Law  in  his 
own  Hands. — Calf  of  Author’s  Leg  goes  astray. — A troop  of  Ele- 
phants.— Author  is  charged  by  one  of  them,  and  narrowly  escapes 
Death. — He  shoots  a white  Rhinoceros. — He  disables  a black  Rhi- 
noceros.— He  is  charged  and  desperately  bruised  and  wounded  by 
the  latter. — He  saves  the  Life  of  his  Attendant,  Kamapyu. — Author 
again  charged  by  the  Rhinoceros,  and  escapes  Destruction  only  by 
the  opportune  Death  of  his  Antagonist. — Reflections. — He  starts  for 
the  Ngami. 

After  about  a week’s  absence  Timbo  returned.  I learn- 
ed from  him  that,  previously  to  his  arrival  at  the  Ngami, 
Lecholetebe,  the  chief,  had  not,  contrary  to  my  expectations, 
been  made  aware  of  my  approach,  and  the  sudden  appear- 
ance of  strangers,  therefore,  created  no  small  degree  of  sur- 
prise and  consternation  both  to  him  and  his  people,  who  fled 
precipitately  with  their  flocks. 

Many  years  before,  when  my  friends,  the  Damaras,  extend- 
ed their  migration  to  the  neighborhood  of  the  lake  in  ques- 
tion, the  Bechuanas  were  in  the  habit  of  robbing  them  of 
their  cattle.  “ How  does  it  happen,”  said  Lecholetebe  to 
Timbo,  “ that  the  Damaras  are  your  servants  ? They  are  a 
mighty  nation,  rich  in  cattle,  which  I know  well,  because  my 
father  fought  many  a bloody  battle  with  them.  We  invari- 
ably came  off  victorious,  though  often  at  the  cost  of  numbers 
of  our  warriors,  who  were  slain  by  the  broad  assegai  of  the  Da- 
maras. All  is  not  right ! Is  your  master  richer  than  they  ?” 
To  this  query  Timbo  logically  replied,  “No,  my  master 
no  rich;  master  very  poor ; but  master  has  something,  and  Da- 
maras nothing ; therefore  master  more  rich  than  Damaras.” 
Timbo  then  explained  the  way  in  which  that  tribe  had 


TIMBO  TAKES  THE  LAW  INTO  HIS  OWN  HANDS.  403 

been  impoverished  and  nearly  exterminated,  as  also  the  mo- 
tives of  our  journey.  On  hearing  all  this,  the  apprehensions 
of  the  chief  gradually  subsided,  and  he  became  more  com- 
municative and  friendly,  urging  Timbo  to  return  to  me  with- 
out delay  and  hurry  on  my  departure,  being  anxious,  as  he 
said,  for  my  arrival ; he  moreover  hinted  that  he  would  forth- 
with send  men  to  meet  and  assist  us  in  our  progress.  But 
here  ended  his  courtesy;  for  subsequently  he  allowed  our 
party,  while  at  his  town,  all  but  to  starve.  It  seems  a char- 
acteristic of  black  chieftains  to  be  avaricious. 

Previously  to  reaching  Lecholetebe’s  residence  it  was  nec- 
essary to  cross  the  Zouga,  his  town  having  been  removed  to 
the  north  side  of  the  river,  from  fear,  as  it  is  said,  of  Sekomo, 
another  Bechuana  chieftain.  When  Timbo  and  his  party 
were  on  their  return  to  me,  the  natives  refused  to  ferry  them 
over  the  river  without  payment.  “ Me  have  no  money,” 
said  Timbo ; “ but  me  soon  make  Caffres  do  it  for  nothing : 
me  say,  6 So  you  will  not  row  me  across !’  And  wTith  that 
me  lay  hold  of  big  stick,  and  me  pitch  into  the  rascals.  Ob, 
master,  such  fun ! me  now  get  plenty  of  boats.”  “ But  were 
you  not  afraid  of  resorting  to  such  severe  measures?”  I in- 
quired. “ Me  frightened !”  he  exclaimed ; “ no,  me  flog  na- 
tives very  well ; it  do  them  plenty  good ; the  fellows  too  lazy 
to  do  work.” 

I now  resolved  to  lose  no  more  time,  but  to  push  on  at 
once  to  the  Lake.  My  leg  had  in  some  degree  recovered  its 
strength,  but,  unobserved  by  me,  it  had  received  a somewhat 
ugly  twist.  Little  George  first  drew  my  attention  to  the 
fact : “ Sir,”  said  he,  “ your  leg  has  grown  crooked.” 

“ Crooked !”  echoed  I,  somewhat  angrily.  “ What  do  you 
mean  V9 

“ Only,”  he  wickedly  replied,  “ the  calf  is  nearly  where 
the  shin  ought  to  be.” 

The  boy’s  remark  was  not  without  foundation  ; but  in  time 
the  leg  assumed  its  proper  shape. 


404 


GAME  WARY— ELEPHANTS  APPROACHING. 


Notwithstanding  my  anxious  desire  to  reach  the  Ngami — 
the  goal  of  my  wishes — I determined,  before  finally  leaving 
Kobis,  to  devote  one  more  day,  or  rather  night,  to  the  de- 
struction of  the  denizens  of  the  forest.  But  the  adventure 
nearly  terminated  fatally ; and  the  night  of  the  15th  of  July 
will  ever  be  remembered  by  me  as  one  of  the  most  eventful 
epochs  of  my  life  ; for,  in  the  course  of  it,  I was  three  sev- 
eral times  in  the  very  jaws  of  death,  and  only  escaped  de- 
struction by  a miracle. 

From  the  constant  persecution  to  which  the  larger  game 
had  of  late  been  subjected  at  Kobis,  it  had  become  not  only 
scarce,  but  wary ; and  hearing  that  elephants  and  rhinoce- 
roses still  continued  to  resort  to  Abeghan,  I forthwith  proceed- 
ed there  on  the  night  in  question.  Somewhat  incautiously 
I took  up  my  position — alone,  as  usual — on  a narrow  neck 
of  land  dividing  two  small  pools,  the  space  on  either  side 
of  my  “ skarm”  being  only  sufficient  for  a large  animal  to 
stand  between  me  and  the  water.  I was  provided  with  a 
blanket  and  two  or  three  spare  guns. 

It  was  one  of  those  magnificent  tropical  moonlight  nights 
when  an  indescribable  soft  and  enchanting  light  is  shed  over 
the  slumbering  landscape ; the  moon  was  so  bright  and  clear 
that  I could  discern  even  a small  animal  at  a considerable 
distance. 

I had  just  completed  my  arrangements,  when  a noise  that 
I can  liken  only  to  the  passage  of  a train  of  artillery  broke 
the  stillness  of  the  air  ; it  evidently  came  from  the  direction 
of  one  of  the  numerous  stony  paths,  or  rather  tracks,  leading 
to  the  water,  and  I imagined  it  was  caused  by  some  wagons 
that  might  have  crossed  the  Kalahari.  Raising  myself  par- 
tially from  my  recumbent  posture,  I fixed  my  eyes  steadily  on 
the  part  of  the  bush  whence  the  strange  sounds  proceeded, 
but  for  some  time  I was  unable  to  make  out  the  cause.  All 
at  once,  however,  the  mystery  was  explained  by  the  appear- 
ance of  an  immense  elephant,  immediately  followed  by  oth- 


THE  AUTHOR  ESCAPES  DEATH  BY  A MIRACLE.  405 

ers,  amounting  to  eighteen.  Their  towering  forms  told  me 
at  a glance  that  they  were  all  males.  It  was  a splendid 
sight  to  behold  so  many  huge  creatures  approaching  with  a 
free,  sweeping,  unsuspecting,  and  stately  step.  The  some- 
what elevated  ground  whence  they  emerged,  and  which  grad- 
ually sloped  toward  the  water,  together  with  the  misty  night 
air,  gave  an  increased  appearance  of  bulk  and  mightiness  to 
their  naturally  giant  structures. 

Crouching  down  as  low  as  possible  in  the  “skarm,”  I 
waited  with  beating  heart  and  ready  rifle  the  approach  of  the 
leading  male,  who,  unconscious  of  peril,  was  making  straight 
for  my  hiding-place.  The  position  of  his  body,  however, 
was  unfavorable  for  a shot ; and,  knowing  from  experience 
that  I had  little  chance  of  obtaining  more  than  a single  good 
one,  I waited  for  an  opportunity  to  fire  at  his  shoulder, 
which,  as  before  said,  is  preferable  to  any  other  part  when 
shooting  at  night.  But  this  chance,  unfortunately,  was  not 
afforded  till  his  enormous  bulk  towered  above  my  head.  The 
consequence  was,  that,  while  in  the  act  of  raising  the  muzzle 
of  my  rifle  over  the  “ skarm,”  my  body  caught  his  eye,  and, 
before  I could  place  the  piece  to  my  shoulder,  he  swung  him- 
self round,  and  with  trunk  elevated  and  ears  spread,  desper- 
ately charged  me.  It  was  now  too  late  to  think  of  flight, 
much  less  of  slaying  the  savage  beast.  My  own  life  was  in 
imminent  jeopardy ; and  seeing  that,  if  I remained  partially 
erect,  he  would  inevitably  seize  me  with  his  proboscis,  I 
threw  myself  on  my  back  with  some  violence,  in  which 
position,  and  without  shouldering  the  rifle,  I fired  upward  at 
random  toward  his  chest,  uttering  at  the  same  time  the  most 
piercing  shouts  and  cries.  The  change  of  position,  in  all 
human  probability,  saved  my  life ; for,  at  the  same  instant, 
the  trunk  of  the  enraged  animal  descended  precisely  on  the 
spot  where  I had  been  previously  couched,  sweeping  away 
the  stones  (mapy  of  a large  size)  that  formed  the  fore  part 
of  my  “ skarm”  like  so  many  pebbles.  In  another  moment 
liis  broad  fore  feet  passed  directly  over  my  face. 


406 


MORE  CLOSE  THAN  AGREEABLE. 


CLOSE  THAN  AGREEABLE. 


EXCITING  SPORT. 


407 


I now  expected  nothing  short  of  being  crushed  to  death. 
But  imagine  my  relief  when,  instead  of  renewing  the  charge, 
he  swerved  to  the  left,  and  moved  off  with  considerable  rapid- 
ity, most  happily  without  my  having  received  other  injuries 
than  a few  bruises,  occasioned  by  the  falling  of  the  stones. 
Under  Providence,  I attribute  my  extraordinary  escape  to 
the  confusion  of  the  animal,  caused  by  the  wound  I had  in- 
flicted on  him,  and  to  the  cries  elicited  from  me  when  in  my 
utmost  need. 

Immediately  after  the  elephant  had  left  me  I was  on  my 
legs,  and,  snatching  up  a spare  rifle  lying  at  hand,  I pointed 
at  him  as  he  was  retreating,  and  pulled  the  trigger ; but,  to 
my  intense  mortification,  the  piece  missed  fire.  It  was  mat- 
ter of  thankfulness  to  me,  however,  that  a similar  mishap  had 
not  occurred  when  the  animal  charged ; for,  had  my  gun  not 
then  exploded,  nothing,  as  I conceive,  could  have  saved  me 
from  destruction. 

During  this  incident  the  rest  of  the  elephants  retreated 
into  the  bush ; but  by  the  time  I had  repaired  my  “ skarm,” 
they  reappeared  with  stealthy  and  cautious  steps  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  pool,  though  so  distant  that  I could  not  fire 
with  any  prospect  of  success.  As  they  did  not  approach  near- 
er, I attempted  to  stalk  them,  but  they  would  not  allow  me 
to  come  to  close  quarters,  and  after  a while  moved  off  alto- 
gether. 

While  pondering  over  my  late  wonderful  escape,  I observed, 
at  a little  distance,  a huge  white  rhinoceros  protrude  his  pon- 
derous and  misshapen  head  through  the  bushes,  and  presently 
afterward  he  approached  to  within  a dozen  paces  of  my  am- 
buscade. His  broadside  was  then  fully  exposed  to  view,  and 
notwithstanding  I still  felt  a little  nervous  from  my  conflict 
with  the  elephant,  I lost  no  time  in  firing.  The  beast  did 
not  at  once  fall  to  the  ground,  but  from  appearances  I had 
every  reason  to  believe  he  would  not  live  long.  - 

Scarcely  had  I reloaded  when  a black  rhinoceros  of  the 


408  RENCOUNTERS  WITH  RHINOCEROSES. 

species  Keitloa  (a  female,  as  it  proved)  stood  drinking  at  the 
water ; but  her  position,  as  with  the  elephant  in  the  first  in- 
stance, was  unfavorable  for  a good  shot.  As,  however,  she 
was  very  near  me,  I thought  I was  pretty  sure  of  breaking 
her  leg  and  thereby  disabling  her,  and  in  this  I succeeded. 
My  fire  seemed  to  madden  her : she  rushed  wildly  forward  on 
three  legs,  when  I gave  her  a second  shot,  though  apparently 
with  little  or  no  effect.  I felt  sorry  at  not  being  able  to  end 
her  sufferings  -at  once ; but,  as  I was  too  well  acquainted  with 
the  habits  of  the  rhinoceros  to  venture  on  pursuing  her  un- 
der the  circumstances,  I determined  to  wait  patiently  for  day- 
light, and  then  destroy  her  with  the  aid  of  my  dogs.  But  it 
was  not  to  be. 

As  no  more  elephants  or  other  large  game  appeared,  I 
thought,  after  a time,  it  might  be  as  well  to  go  in  search  of  the 
white  rhinoceros  previously  wounded ; and  I was  not  long  in 
finding  his  carcass ; for  my  ball,  as  I supposed,  had  caused 
his  almost  immediate  death. 

In  heading  back  to  my  “ skarm,”  I accidentally  took  a turn 
in  the  direction  pursued  by  the  black  rhinoceros,  and  by  ill 
luck,  as  the  event  proved,  at  once  encountered  her.  She  was 
still  on  her  legs,  but  her  position,  as  before,  was  unfavorable. 
Hoping,  however,  to  make  her  change  it  for  a better,  and 
thus  enable  me  to  destroy  her  at  once,  I took  up  a stone,  and 
hurled  it  at  her  with  all  my  force ; when,  snorting  horribly, 
erecting  her  tail,  keeping  her  head  close  to  the  ground,  and 
raising  clouds  of  dust  by  her  feet,  she  rushed  at  me  with  fear- 
ful fury.  I had  only  just  time  to  level  my  rifle  and  fire  be- 
fore she  was  upon  me ; and  the  next  instant,  while  instinct- 
ively turning  round  for  the  purpose  of  retreating,  she  laid  me 
prostrate.  The  shock  was  so  violent  as  to  send  my  rifle,  pow- 
der-flask, and  ball-pouch,  as  also  my  cap,  spinning  in  the  air ; 
the  gun,  indeed,  as  afterward  ascertained,  to  a distance  of 
fully  ten  feet.  On  the  beast  charging  me,  it  crossed  my  mind 
that,  unless  gored  at  once  by  her  horn,  her  impetus  would  be 


DE&PERATE  SITUATION. 


DESPERATE  SITUATION. 


409 


410 


WOUNDED  BY  A BLACK  RHINOCEROS. 


such  (after  knocking  me  down,  which  I took  for  granted  would 
be  the  case)  as  to  carry  her  beyond  me,  and  I might  thus  be 
afforded  a chance  of  escape.  So,  indeed,  it  happened ; for, 
having  tumbled  me  over  (in  doing  which  her  head,  and  the 
fore  part  of  her  body,  owing  to  the  violence  of  the  charge,  was 
half  buried  in  the  sand),  and  trampled  on  me  with  great  vio- 
lence, her  fore  quarter  passed  over  my  body.  Struggling  for 
life,  I seized  my  opportunity,  and,  as  she  was  recovering  her- 
self for  a renewal  of  the  charge,  I scrambled  out  from  between 
her  hind  legs. 

But  the  enraged  beast  had  not  yet  done  with  me.  Scarce- 
ly had  I regained  my  feet  before  she  struck  me  down  a second 
time,  and  with  her  horn  ripped  up  my  right  thigh  (though  not 
very  deeply)  from  near  the  knee  to  the  hip ; with  her  fore  feet, 
moreover,  she  hit  me  a terrific  blow  on  the  left  shoulder,  near 
the  back  of  the  neck.  My  ribs  bent  under  the  enormous 
weight  and  pressure,  and  for  a moment  I must,  as  I believe, 
have  lost  consciousness — I have,  at  least,  very  indistinct  no- 
tions of  what  afterward  took  place.  All  I remember  is,  that 
when  I raised  my  head  I heard  a furious  snorting  and  plung- 
ing among  the  neighboring  bushes.  I now  arose,  though  with 
great  difficulty,  and  made  my  way,  in  the  best  manner  I was 
able,  toward  a large  tree  near  at  hand  for  shelter ; but  this 
precaution  w.as  needless ; the  beast,  for  the  time  at  'least, 
showed  no  inclination  further  to  molest  me.  Either  in  the 
melee,  or  owing  to  the  confusion  caused  by  her  wounds,  she 
had  lost  sight  of  me,  or  she  felt  satisfied  with  the  revenge  she 
had  taken.  Be  that  as  it  may,  I escaped  with  life,  though 
sadly  wounded  and  severely  bruised,  in  which  disabled  state 
I had  great  difficulty  in  getting  back  to  my  “ skarm.” 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  conflict  I preserved  my 
presence  of  mind ; but  after  the  danger  was  over,  and  when 
I had  leisure  to  collect  my  scattered  and  confused  senses,  I 
was  seized  with  a nervous  affection,  causing  a violent  trem- 
bling. I have  since  killed  many  rhinoceroses,  as  well  for 


AUTHOR  SAVES  KAMAPYU’S  LIFE. 


411 


sport  as  food,  but  several  weeks  elapsed  before  I could  again 
attack  those  animals  with  any  coolness. 

About  sunrise,  Kamapyu,  my  half-caste  boy,  whom  I had 
left  on  the  preceding  evening  about  half  a mile  away,  came 
to  the  44  skarm”  to  convey  my  guns  and  other  things  to  our 
encampment.  In  few  words  I related  to  him  the  mishap 
that  had  befallen  me.  He  listened  with  seeming  incredulity, 
but  the  sight  of  my  gashed  thigh  soon  convinced  him  I was 
not  in  joke. 

I afterward  directed  him  to  take  one  of  the  guns  and  pro- 
ceed in  search  of  the  wounded  rhinoceros,  cautioning  him  to 
be  careful  in  approaching  the  beast,  which  I had  reason  to 
believe  was  not  yet  dead.  He  had  only  been  absent  a few 
minutes  when  I heard  a cry  of  distress.  Striking  my  hand 
against  my  forehead,  I exclaimed,  44  Good  God ! the  brute 
has  attacked  the  lad  also !” 

Seizing  hold  of  my  rifle,  I scrambled  through  the  bushes 
as  fast  as  my  crippled  condition  would  permit,  and,  when  I 
had  proceeded  two  or  three  hundred  yards,  a scene  suddenly 
presented  itself  that  I shall  vividly  remember  to  the  last  days 
of  my  existence.  Among  some  bushes,  and  within  a couple 
of  yards  of  each  other,  stood  the  rhinoceros  and  the  young 
savage,  the  former  supporting  herself  on  three  legs,  covered 
with  blood  and  froth,  and  snorting  in  the  most  furious  man- 
ner ; the  latter  petrified  with  fear — spell-bound,  as  it  were — 
and  riveted  to  the  spot.  Creeping,  therefore,  to  the  side  of 
the  rhinoceros  opposite  to  that  on  which  the  boy  was  stand- 
ing, so  as  to  draw  her  attention  from  him,  I leveled  and  fired, 
on  which  the  beast  charged  wildly  to  and  fro  without  any 
distinct  object.  While  she  was  thus  occupied  I poured  in 
shot  after  shot,  but  thought  she  would  never  fall.  At  length, 
however,  she  sank  slowly  to  the  ground,  and,  imagining  that 
she  was  in  her  death  agonies,  and  that  all  danger  was  over, 
I walked  unhesitatingly  close  up  to  her,  and  was  on  the  point 
of  placing  the  muzzle  of  my  gun  to  her  ear  to  give  her  the 


412 


.REFLECTIONS SET  OFF  FOR  THE  LAKE. 


coup  de  grace , when,  to  my  horror,  she  once  more  rose  on  her 
legs.  Taking  a hurried  aim,  I pulled  the  trigger,  and  instant- 
ly retreated,  with  the  beast  in  full  pursuit.  The  race,  how- 
ever, was  a short  one,  for,  just  as  I threw  myself  into  a bush 
for  safety,  she  fell  dead  at  my  feet,  so  near  me,  indeed,  that  I 
could  have  touched  her  with  the  muzzle  of  my  rifle ! Anoth- 
er moment,  and  I should  probably  have  been  impaled  on  her 
murderous  horn,  which,  though  short,  was  sharp  as  a razor .* 

When  reflecting  on  the  wonderful  and  providential  es- 
capes I recently  experienced,  I could  not  help  thinking  that 
I had  been  spared  for  some  good  purpose,  and  my  heart  was 
lifted  in  humble  gratitude  to  the  Almighty,  who  had  thus 
extended  over  me  His  protecting  hand. 

The  second  day  after  the  scenes  described  my  bruises  be- 
gan to  show  themselves,  and  on  the  third  day  they  were 
fully  developed,  giving  my  body  a black  and  yellow  hue. 
So  far  as  I was  aware,  none  of  my  bones  we^e  broken ; but 
burning  and  agonizing  pains  in  the  region  of  the  chest  were 
clearly  symptomatic  of  severe  internal  injury.  Indeed,  at 
flrst,  serious  apprehensions  were  entertained  for  my  life. 
After  great  suffering,  however,  I recovered ; and,  as  my  shoot- 
ing mania  had  by  this  time  somewhat  cooled  down,  my  whole 
thoughts  were  bent  on  seeing  the  Ngami.  Though  my  frame 
was  quite  unequal  to  bear  fatigue,  my  spirit  would  not  brook 
longer  delay. 

With . the  assistance  of  my  men,  I therefore  mounted  my 
steed  on  the  23d  of  July,  and  was  off  for  the  Lake,  leaving 
my  hunting  spoils  and  other  effects  under  the  care  of  the 
Bushman-chief  at  Kobis. 

* The  black  rhinoceros  is,  under  all  circumstances,  as  already  men- 
tioned, a morose  and  sulky  beast.  The  one  in  question  was  unusual- 
ly savage,  as  she  had  probably  a young  sucking  calf.  We  did  not  see 
the  latter,  it  is  true,  but  assumed  such  to  be  the  case  from  the  beast’s 
teats  being  full  of  milk.  It  is  most  likely  that  her  offspring  was  of  too 
tender  an  age  to  accompany  her,  and  that,  as  not  unfrequently  hap- 
pens, she  concealed  it  among  the  bushes  when  about  to  quench  her 
thirst  at  the  pool. 


START  FROM  IvOBXS MEET  BECHUANAS. 


413 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Start  from  Kobis.  — Meet  Becliuanas. — False  Report. — Wonderful 
Race  of  Men. — The  Baobob-tree.— The  Ngami. — First  Impressions 
of  the  Lake. — Reflections.— Experience  some  Disappointment. — 
Reach  the  Zouga  River  and  encamp  near  it. — Interview  with  Chief 
Lecholetebe. — Information  refused. — Immoderate  Laughter. — Pres- 
ents to  the  Chief. — His  Covetousness. — His  Cruelty. — Formidable 
Difficulties. — Author  permitted  to  proceed  northward. 

Our  first  day’s  march  from  Kobis  lay  through  an  exceed- 
ingly dense  “ wait-a-bit”  thorn  coppice,  crossed  in  every  di- 
rection by  numerous  paths  of  rhinoceroses  and  elephants. 
The  soil  consisted  of  soft  and  yielding  sand,  which  made  trav- 
eling very  fatiguing.  The  second  day,  at  an  early  hour,  we 
arrived  at  a fine  vley  of  water,  where  I was  met  by  a num- 
ber of  Bechuanas  (among  whom  were  some  of  the  leading 
men  of  the  tribe)  waiting  to  conduct  me  to  Lecholetebe,  who 
had  given  them  orders  to  render  me  any  assistance  I might 
require.  Whether  this  was  from  courtesy,  or  to  serve  his 
own  purposes,  I am  uncertain ; though,  from  what  I after- 
ward saw  of  the  chief,  I am  inclined  to  think  it  was  entirely 
from  selfish  motives. 

The  men  in  question  belonged  to  a tribe  called  Batoana, 
residing  on  the  shores  of  the  Lake  Ngami.  They  were  re- 
markably fine-looking  fellows,  stout  and  well  built,  with 
Caffre  features  and  longish  hair.  Their  appearance,  indeed, 
was  not  unlike  thatr  of  the  Damaras.  One  and  all  ■were 
armed  with  a shield  (oblong  in  form,  and  made  of  a single 
fold  of  ox-hide),  and  a bundle  of  assegais  of  various  descrip- 
tions, each  provided  with  several  barbs.  What  with  these 
formidable  weapons  and  their  martial  bearing,  the  aspect 
of  these  savages  was  imposing  and  warlike.  They  wore  few 
or  no  ornaments.  , 


414  A FALSE  ALARM SENSUALITY  AND  CUNNING. 

By  a liberal  supply  of  tobacco  and  flesh,  we  soon  became 
excellent  friends  ; but  all  my  endeavors  to  elicit  information 
about  the  country  were  fruitless.  They  merely  shrugged 
their  shoulders,  urging  as  an  excuse  their  ignorance  of  such 
matters;  they  said,  however,  that  their  chief  would,  no 
doubt,  satisfy  my  curiosity  on  these  points. 

We  bivouacked  at  the  vley,  where  a great  number  of 
Bushmen — friends  and  relatives  of  those  at  Kobis — also  hap- 
pened to  be  encamped.  Just  as  I had  retired  to  rest,  and 
while  watching  with  interest  the  animated  features  and  ges- 
tures of  our  new  friends,  the  Bechuanas,  who,  by  a glorious 
fire,  were  regaling  themselves  with  the  pipe  and  the  “ flesh- 
pots,”  Bonfield  came  running  up  to  me  in  great  haste,  say- 
ing, “ Please,  sir,  the  Bushmen  tell  us  that  Sebetoane, 
having  heard  of  our  coming,  had  sent  a message  to  Lecho- 
letebe  with  orders  to  dispatch  people  to  waylay  and  kill  us, 
and  that  these  were  the  very  individuals  to  whom  the  task 
was  intrusted !” 

Being  myself  by  this  time  pretty  well  used  to  similarly 
absurd  and  unfounded  stories,  and  knowing  that  I had  noth- 
ing to  fear,  I took  no  notice  of  the  communication,  but  again 
retired  with  as  much  unconcern  as  if  I had  been  in  a civil- 
ized country.  This,  however,  was  far  from  the  case  with  my 
men,  for  the  following  morning  I learned  that  their  anxiety 
had  kept  them  awake  during  the  greater  part  of  the  night, 
and  that  some  had  actually  packed  up  their  things,  intend- 
ing to  steal  away  secretly. 

The  next  morning  proved  the  groundlessness  of  the  report. 
The  Bushmen,  we  found,  had  fabricated  the  story  as  a means 
of  prolonging  my  stay  among  them,  in  the  anticipation  of 
obtaining  an  occasional  gorge  from  the  spoils  of  the  chase. 
The  low  cunning  of  this  people  is  only  equaled  by  their  cre- 
dulity. To  them,  no  tales  can  be  too  ridiculous  and  absurd 
for  belief.  For  instance,  my  Bushmen  guides  amused  me  by 
relating  one  evening  that  a tribe  of  black  people  had  just 


THE  BAOBOB-TREE ENCAMP  IN  THE  WOODS.  415 

taken  up  their  abode  a little  in  advance  of  us,  “ whose  stom- 
achs rested  on  their  knees,  and  whose  whole  aspect  was  of 
the  most  unnatural  and  ferocious  character.” 

About  noon  on  the  same  day  we  were  again  en  route. 
Instead  of  feeling  our  way  by  the  zigzag  tracks  made  by 
rhinoceroses  and  other  wild  beasts,  our  guides  now  took  us  a 
straight  cut  across  the  country,  which  was  densely  wooded. 

The  “ wait-a-bit”  thorns  were  extremely  harassing,  tearing 
to  ribbons  our  clothes,  carosses,  and  even  pack-saddle  bags, 
made  of  strong  ox-hide.  Notwithstanding  the  wooded  char- 
acter of  the  country,. it  affords  excellent  pasturage  ; and  the 
numerous  old  wells  and  pits  found  between  Tunobis  and  the 
Ngami  clearly  indicate  that  these  regions  have,  at  no  very 
remote  period,  been  largely  resorted  to  by  some  pastoral 
people. 

I hoped  to  reach  the  Lake  by  the  evening,  but  sunset 
found  us  still  at  a distance  from  the  object  of  our  enterprise. 
We  encamped  in  a dense  brake,  near  to  which  were  several 
gigantic  baobob*-trees,  the  first  we  had  seen ; the  stems  of 
some  we  judged  to  be  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  in  circum- 
ference. Finding  abundance  of  fuel,  the  wood  was  soon  il- 
luminated by  numerous  watch-fires,  around  which,  besides 
my  own  party,  were  grouped  many  a merry  and  laughing 
savage,  each  with  his  shield  planted  as  a guard  behind  him. 
Altogether,  the  scene  was  striking  and  picturesque. 

The  return  of  daylight  found  us  again  on  the  move.  The 
morning  being  cool  and  pleasant,  and  our  goal  near,  the 

* “The  baobob,”  says  Mr.  Livingstone,  “the  body  of  which  gives 
one  the  idea  of  a mass  of  granite,  from  its  enormous  size,  yields  a fruit 
about  the  size  of  a quart  bottle ; the  pulp  between  the  seeds  tastes  like 
cream  of  tartar,  and  it  is  used  by  the  natives  to  give  a flavor  to  their 
porridge.”  Mr.  Green  writes  me  that  plants  have  been  raised  in  En- 
gland of  the  baobob  from  seeds  brought  home  by  his  son,  Frederick 
Green,  who  is  at  present  treading  in  my  tracks  in  the  interior  of  South- 
western Africa.  For  further  details  of  the  baobob,  see  “Saturday 
Magazine”  for  the  year  1832. 


416 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE  LAKE GRATITUDE. 


whole  party  was  in  high  spirits,  and  we  proceeded  cheerily 
on  our  road.  1 myself  kept  well  ahead,  in  hope  of  obtaining 
the  first  glimpse  of  Ngami.  The  country  hereabout  was 
finely  undulated,  and  in  every  distant  vale  with  a defined 
border  I thought  I saw  a lake.  At  last  a blue  line  of  great 
extent  appeared  in  the  distance,  and  I made  sure  it  was  the 
long-sought  object;  but  I was  still  doomed  to  disappointment. 
It  turned  out  to  be  merely  a large  hollow,  in  the  rainy  season 
filled  with  water,  but  now  dry  and  covered  by  saline  incrust- 
ations. Several  valleys,  separated  from  each  other  by  ridges 
of  sand,  bearing  a rank  vegetation,  were  afterward  crossed. 
On  reaching  the  top  of  one  of  these  ridges,  the  natives,  who 
were  in  advance  of  our  party,  suddenly  came  to  a halt,  and, 
pointing  straight  before  them,  exclaimed,  “ Ngami ! Ngami !” 
In  an  instant  I was  with  the  men.  There,  indeed,  at  no  very 
great  distance,  lay  spread  before  me  an  immense  sheet  of 
water,  only  bounded  by  the  horizon — the  object  of  my  ambi- 
tion for  years,  and  for  which  I had  abandoned  home  and 
friends,  and  risked  my  life. 

The  first  sensation  occasioned  by  this  sight  was  very  curi- 
ous. Long  as  I had  been  prepared  for  that  event,  it  now  al- 
most overwhelmed  me.  It  was  a mixture  of  pleasure  and 
pain.  My  temples  throbbed,  and  my  heart  beat  so  violently 
that  I was  obliged  to  dismount  and  lean  against  a tree  for 
support  until  the  excitement  had  subsided.  The  reader  will 
no  doubt  think  that  thus  giving  way  to  my  feelings  was  very 
childish  ; but  “ those  who  know  that  the  first  glimpse  of  some 
great  object  which  we  have  read  or  dreamed  of  from  earliest 
recollection  is  ever  a moment  of  intensest  enjoyment,  will 
forgive  the  transport.”  I felt  unfeignedly  thankful  for  the 
unbounded  goodness  and  gracious  assistance  which  I had  ex- 
perienced from  Providence  throughout  the  whole  of  this  pro- 
longed and  perilous  journey.  My  trials  had  been  many; 
but,  my  dearest  aspirations  being  attained,  the  difficulties 
were  all  forgotten.  And  here  I could  not  avoid  passing  my 


DISAPPOINTMENT. 


417 


previous  life  in  review.  I had  penetrated  into  deserts  almost 
unknown  to  civilized  man ; had  suffered  the  extremity  of 
hunger  and  thirst,  cold  and  heat ; and  had  undergone  des- 
perate toil,  sometimes  nearly  in  solitude,  and  often  without 
shelter  during  dreary  nights  in  vast  wildernesses  haunted  by 
beasts  of  prey.  My  companions  were  mostly  savages.  I 
was  exposed  to  numerous  perils  by  land  and  by  water,  and 
endured  torments  from  wounds  inflicted  by  wild  animals. 
But  I was  mercifully  preserved  by  the  Creator  through  the 
manifold  dangers  that  hovered  round  my  path.  To  Him  are 
due  all  homage,  thanksgiving,  and  adoration. 

After  feasting  my  eyes  for  a while  on  the  interesting  scene 
before  me,  we  descended  from  the  higher  ground  toward  the 
Lake,  which  we  reached  in  about  an  hour  and  a half.  But, 
though  we  breathed  a fresher  atmosphere,  no  perfumed  or 
balmy  scents,  as  might  have  been  anticipated  on  the  borders 
of  a tropical  lake,  were  wafted  on  the  breeze. 

Whether  my  expectations  had  been  raised  to  too  high  a 
pitch,  or  that  the  grandeur  of  this  inland  sea  and  the  luxu- 
riance of  the  surrounding  vegetation  had  been  somewhat  ex- 
aggerated by  travelers,  I must  confess  that,  on  a closer  in- 
spection, I felt  rather  disappointed.  In  saying  this,  I must 
admit  having  visited  it  at  a season  of  the  year  little  favora- 
ble to  the  display  of  its  grandeur.  But,  if  I am  not  mis- 
taken, its  discoverers,  Messrs.  Oswell,  Livingstone,  and  Mur- 
ray, saw  it  under  no  more  auspicious  circumstances.  The 
eastern  extremity,  however,  the  only  portion  ever  seen  by  the 
gentlemen  in  question,  certainly  possesses  superior  attrac- 
tions to  the  western,  or  where  I first  struck  upon  the  Ngami. 

The  Lake  was  how  very  low,  and,  at  the  point  first  seen 
by  us,  exceedingly  shallow.  The  water,  which  had  a very 
bitter  and  disagreeable  taste,  was  only  approachable  in  a few 
places,  partly  on  account  of  the  mud,  and  partly  because  of 
the  thick  coating  of  reeds  and  rushes  that  lined  the  shore, 
and  which  were  a favorite  resort  of  a great  variety  of  water- 

S 2 


418  ENCAMP  ON  THE  ZOUGA FIRST  INTERVIEW . 

fowl.  Many  species  new  to  us  were  among  them ; but  we 
had  no  time  to  spare  for  approaching  the  birds. 

We  twice  bivouacked  on  the  south  border  of  Ngami  before 
coming  in  sight  of  Lecholetebe’ s residence,  situated  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  River  Zouga,  and  at  a short  distance  from 
where  its  waters  separate  themselves  from  the  Lake. 

I had  accomplished  the  journey  from  Kobis  in  five  days. 
With  unencumbered  oxen,  it  might,  with  some  exertion,  be 
made  in  half  this  time. 

Lecholetebe  requested  me  to  pitch  my  tent  in  his  immedi- 
ate vicinity ; but,  feeling  fatigued,  and  well  knowing  the  in- 
convenience of  being  in  too  close  proximity  to  the  natives,  we 
encamped  on  the  south  side  of  the  Zouga. 

I determined  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  chief  at  an  early 
hour  on  the  following  morning.  To  make  a favorable  im- 
pression on  the  mind  of  savages  at  the  first  interview  is  of 
great  importance,  as  much  of  their  future  good-will  toward 
one  depends  on  this,  and  scarcely  any  thing  propitiates  them 
more  than  outward  show. 

Accordingly,  at  the  contemplated  hour,  I donned  my  best 
apparel,  which  consisted  of  jacket  and  trowsers  of  fine  white 
duck,  a handsome  red  velvet  sash,  lined  with  silk  of  the  same 
color,  and  a gold-embroidered  skull-cap. 

The  two  last  articles  of  dress  were  a memento  of  a dear 
female  friend,  and  I had  pledged  myself  to  wear  them  on  the 
first  grand  occasion. 

Having  crossed  the  Zouga  River,  a few  minutes’  walk 
brought  me  to  Batoana  town,  the  capital  and  residence  of 
Lecholetebe.  I found  the  chief  seated  on  a wooden  stool,  in 
the  midst  of  forty  or  fifty  of  his  followers,  drinking  coffee 
within  a stout  semicircular  palisading.  He  was  attired  in 
a half-European  and  half-barbarous  costume ; his  lower  ex- 
tremities were  immersed  in  a pair  of  wide  moleskin  trowsers ; 
he  had  incased  his  feet  in  socks  and  “ veld”  shoes,  while  from 
his  shoulders  depended  gracefully  a very  handsome  jackal 


THE  CHIEF  IGNORANT EXCHANGE  VISIT. 


419 


caross.  This  latter,  however,  he  almost  immediately  ex- 
changed for  waistcoat  and  jacket. 

Piet  the  Griqua,  and  a Bechuana  man,  whom  a trader 
(then  at  the  Lake)  had  kindly  placed  at  my  disposal,  were 
my  interpreters.  After  the  first  salutations  were  over,  I ex- 
plained to  the  chief  the  motives  of  my  visit,  the  friendly 
wishes  of  the  British  government  at  the  Cape,  and  so  forth. 
He  listened  to  my  story  with  apparent  attention  and  in  pro- 
found silence,  eyeing  me  the  whole  time  suspiciously.  But 
he  asked  no  question,  nor  did  he  venture  any  remark. 

Having  conveyed  to  him  all  I had  to  say,  I prepared  to 
depart.  Previously,  however,  to  taking  leave,  I requested 
him  to  have  the  goodness  to  give  me  some  information  about 
his  country,  to  which  he  abruptly  replied, 

“ I know  nothing  at  all !” 

“ Is  there,  then,”  I said,  “ none  of  your  people  who  can 
furnish  me  with  some  account  of  it  V9 
“No,”  was  his  immediate  answer. 

I was  annoyed,  but  felt  the  necessity  of  concealing  my 
vexation ; and,  soon  after  rising,  I said,  “ Well,  Lecholetebe, 
perhaps,  when  we  become  better  acquainted,  you  will  be  more 
communicative.  In  the  mean  time,  when  it  suits  you,  come 
over  to  my  encampment  and  have  a chat,  and  maybe  you 
will  find  something  there  to  captivate  your  fancy.” 

I had  no  occasion  to  say  this  twice,  as  I too  soon  found  to 
my  cost.  Unlike  our  fat  friend,  King  Nangoro,  who  had  the 
courtesy  to  make  us  wait  about  three  days  before  he  conde- 
scended to  see  us,  the  Bechuana  chief  could  scarcely  restrain 
his  curiosity  for  as  many  hours. 

When  he  arrived  I was  busy  preparing  some  skins  of  birds 
and  snakes,  which  caused  no  small  amount  of  jesting  among 
his  followers.  One  fellow,  more  inquisitive  and  impertinent, 
than  the  rest,  approached  close  to  me,  and,  seizing  one  of  the 
reptiles  by  the  tail,  held  it  up  before  the  multitude,  which 
were  now  thronging  my  tent  to  inconvenience,  and,  addres?- 


420 


IMMODERATE  LAUGHTER— PRESENTS. 


ing  to  it  some  unintelligible  words,  the  whole  assembly  burst 
out  into  a deafening  roar  of  laughter.  Indeed,  the  mirth  be- 
came so  outrageous  as  to  throw  the  party  into  convulsions, 
many  casting  themselves  at  full  length  on  the  ground,  with 
their  hands  tightly  clasped  across  their  stomachs,  as  if  in  fear 
of  bursting,  while  their  greasy  cheeks  became  furrowed  with 
tears  trickling  down  in  streams.  Fancy,  reader,  a royal  cor- 
tege prostrated  in  the  dust  by  laughter ! Although  this  mer- 
riment was,  no  doubt,  at  my  expense,  the  sight  more  amused 
than  annoyed  me. 

As  soon  as  the  noise  had  subsided,  I brought  forward  my 
presents  for  the  chief,  consisting  of  beads,  knives,  tobacco, 
snuff,  steel  chains,  rings,  blue  calico,  red  woolen  caps,  and 
trinkets  of  various  kinds.  Without  deigning  even  a look  of 
satisfaction,  Lecholetebe  silently  distributed  the  goods  among 
the  principal  of  his  men  who  were  grouped  around  him,  re- 
serving, apparently,  nothing  to  himself.  This  being  done,  he 
looked  anxiously  round,  from  which  I inferred  that  some  un- 
gratified desire  was  still  on  his  heart.  Nor  was  I deceived; 
for  all  at  once  he  inquired  whether  I had  not  brought  him 
some  powder  and  lead,  which  he  might  barter  for  ivory.  I 
told  him  that  I had  some ; but,  firstly,  it  was  not  more  than 
I myself  wanted;  and,  secondly,  I was  prohibited  by  the 
British  government  at  the  Cape  from  disposing  of  either  arms  * 
or  ammunition,  and  that  I could  not  think  of  disobeying  these 
orders. 

At  this  declaration  his  countenance  fell,  and  I saw  clear- 
ly that  he  was  very  much  annoyed.  But  I was  prepared  for 
his.  displeasure ; and,  by  opportunely  placing  in  his  hand  a 
double-barreled  pistol,  which  I had  previously  been  informed 
he  coveted  excessively,  and  which  I begged  him  to  accept  as 
a memento  of  my  visit,  his  visage  soon  beamed  with  delight 
and  satisfaction,  and  we  became  excellent  friends. 

When  Europeans  first  visited  the  Lake,  they  were,  I am 
told,  liberally  entertained  by  Lecholetebe ; but,  whatever  ci- 


POLICY  AND  POWER  OP  LECHOLETEBE.  421 

vility  he  might  have  shown  to  strangers  in  former  times, 
much  can  not  be  said  in  favor  of  his  hospitality  at  the  pres- 
ent day.  During  my  whole  stay  at  the  Lake,  I never  received 
from  him  so  much  as  a handful  of  corn  or  a cup  of  milk. 
On  the  contrary,  he , while  we  ourselves  were  almost  starv- 
ing, was  in  the  habit  of  begging  food  daily  from  me. 

If  any  thing  takes  his  fancy — no  matter  what,  it  may  be 
the  shirt  you  wear — he  has  no  scruple  in  asking  you  for  it 
at  once.  Upon  your  refusal,  he  will,  perhaps,  leave  you  for 
a time,  but  is  sure  to  return  and  renew  his  request  with  the 
greatest  pertinacity,  never  ceasing  his  solicitations  till,  by  his 
vexatious  importunity,  he  has  succeeded  in  getting  the  object 
of  his  desire — a line  of  policy  the  success  of  which  he  seems 
fully  to  understand. 

The  arrival  of  several  wagons  at  the  Lake  at  the  same 
time  puts  him  in  the  highest  glee.  On  these  occasions  he 
never  fails  to  make  his  rounds,  craving  bread  from  one,  sugar 
from  another,  coffee  from  a third,  meat  from  a fourth,  and 
so  on. 

The  traders,  however,  know  how  to  take  advantage  of  this 
weakness  in  his  character,  and  often  make  him  pay  dearly 
for  such  articles  as  may  captivate  his  fancy ; for  instance,  I 
have  known  a man  to  get  a good-sized  bull-elephant  tusk  for 
three  common  copper  drinking-cups  !* 

Lecholetebe  possesses  great  power  over  his  people,  when 
he  chooses  to  exercise  it ; but  I am  inclined  to  think  their 
subjection  is  attributable  more  to  superstition  and  the  force 
of  custom  than  to  any  real  regard  for  his  person.  Gener- 
ally speaking,  he  is,  not  of  a cruel  disposition ; but  that  he 
holds  human  life  in  very  light  estimation,  the  following  in- 
cident, which  came  under  my  own  immediate  notice,  serves 
to  show. 

* When  the  lake  was  first  discovered,  a man  told  me  that  he  ob- 
tained, in  exchange  for  a musket,  twelve  hundred  pounds  of  ivory, 
worth,  at  the  least,  £240  sterling! 


422  HUMAN  LIFE  LITTLE  VALUED  BY  LECHOLETEBE. 

Having  lately  bought  some  horses,  two  Bushmen  were  or- 
dered to  take  charge  of  them ; but,  unfortunately,  by  their 
neglect,  one  of  the  animals  fell  into  a quagmire,  and  was  suf- 
focated. Being  afraid  to  tell  the  truth,  they  reported  to  the 
chief  that  the  horse  had  died  from  the  effects  of  the  bite  of  a 
snake.  On  hearing  this,  Lecholetebe  questioned  the  men  as 
to  the  part  of  the  body  wounded  by  the  reptile,  and  being 
told  that  it  was  in  the  head,  he  ordered  the  men  to  lead  him 
to  the  place,  that  he  might  see  for  himself.  On  arriving  at 
the  spot,  he  at  once  saw  how  the  case  stood,  and  told  the 
Bushmen  that  the  animal  had  not  died  from  the  bite  of  a 
snake,  but  was  evidently  choked  in  the  mud,  to  which  they 
confessed,  as  there  was  no  longer  any  chance  of  concealing 
the  truth.  "Without  further  question  or  remark,  the  chief  or- 
dered the  halter  of  the  dead  horse  to  be  loosened,  and  the 
hands  and  feet  of  the  Bushmen  to  be  secured  with  it.  This 
being  done,  they  were  thrown  into  the  mud  alongside  the 
dead  quadruped,  where,  of  course,  they  soon  miserably  perish- 
ed, Lecholetebe  coolly  exclaiming,  u There,  now  mind  the 
horse !” 

Another  instance  of  the  little  value  he  sets  on  human 
(rather  Bushman)  life  I have  upon  good  authority.  A Bush- 
man lad,  who  had  long  been  successfully  engaged  in  sheep- 
stealing, was  at  length  detected,  and,  as  a punishment  for  his 
crimes,  was  tied  to  a tree,  and  practiced  upon  with  guns  at 
the  long  distance  of  two  hundred  paces. 

The  object  I had  now  chiefly  in  view  was  to  visit  a place 
called  Libebe,  situated  considerably  to  the  north  of  the  Lake, 
not  so  much  to  see  the  country  as  to  collect  information  in 
regard  to  the  mighty  waters  (part  of  which  are  tributaries  to 
the  Ngami)  lately  brought  to  light  in  that  remote  region,  as 
also  to  ascertain  if  any  water  communication  existed  with 
the  sea.  But  many  difficulties  were  in  the  way.  My  people 
refused  almost  to  a man  to  accompany  me ; and  as  our  agree- 
ment only  bound  them  as  far  as  the  Ngami,  I could  not  com- 


ANXIOUS  TO  VISIT  LIBEBE LECHOLETEBE  CONSENTS.  423 

pel  them  to  go  on.  The  parts  that  I should  have  to  pass 
through  are  infected  with  fevers  fatal  to  human  life ; and  then, 
again,  the  tsetse  fly  abounds,  which,  from 'the  ravages  it  causes 
among  cattle,  renders  traveling  by  land  almost  impossible. 

The  only  way  left  was  to  penetrate  northward  by  water, 
if  practicable ; but  here  again  I found  serious  impediments. 
I had  no  boat  of  my  own,  and  Lech  ole  tebe  (like  all  native 
chiefs)  was  known  to  be  particularly  hostile  to  any  attempt 
to  pass  beyond  his  territory.  Not  the  most  alluring  promises 
of  presents  and  rewards  had  yet  succeeded  in  inducing  him 
to  assist  any  one  in  this  matter.  Consequently,  I could  not 
expect  that  he  would  treat  me  differently,  the  rather  as  I 
was  really  not  in  a position  to  offer  him  a bribe  of  any  value. 
It  being  a darling  scheme  of  mine,  however,  to  penetrate  to 
Libebe,  I was  determined  on  carrying  it  out,  if  possible. 

Accordingly,  I seized  the  first  favorable  opportunity  of 
broaching  the  subject  to  the  chief,  and  requested  he  would 
furnish  me  with  men  and  canoes.  To  my  great  astonish- 
ment, but  no  less  delight,  and  without  the  slightest  objec- 
tion, he  agreed  to  my  proposal.  As,  however,  I could  not 
flatter  myself  that  I had  produced  a more  favorable  impres- 
sion than  any  other  traveler,  I suspected  deceit  of  some  kind, 
and  the  sequel  proved  I was  not  mistaken  in  my  conjecture. 


CHAPTER  XXXIY. 

The  Ngami. — When  discovered. — Its  various  Names. — Its  Size  and 
Form. — Great  Changes  in  its  Waters. — Singular  Phenomenon. — The 
Teoge  River. — The  Zouga  River. — The  Mukuru-Mukovanja  River. 
— Animals.- — Birds. — Crocodiles. — Serpents. — Fish. 

At  an  early  period  of  the  present  century  rumors  had 
reached  Europeans  of  a vast  lake  in  the  interior  of  South 
Africa,  but  for  a very  long  time  its  existence  continued  to  be 
involved  in  mystery,  and  travelers  and  hunters  were  unavail- 


424  THE  NGAMI WHEN  DISCOVERED NAMES. 

ingly  expending  their  resources  and  energies  to  solve  the  grand 
problem. 

The  cause  of  all.  these  failures  was  chiefly  to  be  found  in 
the  desert  and  inhospitable  regions  which  lie  between  the 
explorers  and  the  supposed  lake,  commonly  known  as  the 
Kalahari  desert.  Toward  the  close  of  1849,  however,  and 
when  the  hope  of  our  being  able  to  overcome  this  apparently 
insurmountable  barrier  was  almost  extinguished,  the  great 
object  was  accomplished  by  the  persevering  exertions  of 
Messrs.  Oswell,  Livingstone,  and  Murray,  and  the  existence 
was  made  known  of  a fine  fresh-water  lake  in  the  centre  of 
South  Africa. 

This  important  and  highly  interesting  discovery  at  once 
opened  a new  and  extensive  field  for  the  inquiries  of  the  ge- 
ographer and  the  naturalist,  and  gave  a fresh  impulse  to  the 
enterprising  and  speculating  spirit  of  the  colonists  of  South- 
ern Africa.  The  lake  was  described  as  a magnificent  sheet 
of  water,  abounding  in  fish  and  hippopotami,  and  the  coun- 
try around  as  well  stocked  with  elephants  and  other  large 
game,  while  the  vegetation  was  said  to  be  on  the  most  lux- 
uriant scale.  The  discovery  excited  very  considerable  in- 
terest. 

The  Lake  goes  with  the  natives  by  different  names — all  of 
which  are  more  or  less  appropriate— such  as  Inghabe  (the  gi- 
raffe) ; NoJca  ea  Botletle  (lake  of  the  Botletle) ; Noka  ea  Mo - 
koron  (lake  of  boats)  ; and  Ngami , or  The  Waters.  As  the 
last  designation  is  the  one  by  which  the  Lake  is  best  known 
to  Europeans,  I will  retain  it  throughout  the  remainder  of 
this  narrative. 

As  before  said,  on  taking  a nearer  survey  of  the  Lake,  I 
experienced  some  disappointment  as  to  its  attractions.  It  is, 
however,  indisputably  a fine  sheet  of  water,  but  in  size  is 
somewhat  overrated,  the  estimation  of  its  length  alone  being 
at  one  time  considered  no  less  than  one  hundred  miles,  and 
the  width  about  fifteen  or  sixteen.  The  misconception  may 


SIZE  AND  FORM  OF  THE  LAKE. 


425 


thus,  perhaps,  be  accounted  for.  In  the  first  instance,  no 
person,  to  the  best  of  my  belief,  has  ever  yet  been  quite  round 
it ; secondly,  the  shores — -with  the  exception  of  the  south  and 
west  sides — are  low  and  sandy,  and  in  hazy  weather  can  not 
easily  be  distinguished ; and,  lastly,  I am  inclined  to  think 
that  the  discoverers  mistook  its  length  for  its  breadth,  for, 
according  to  Cooly,  “The  travelers  beheld  with  delight  the 
fine  river,  and  the  Lake  extending  out  of  sight  to  the  north 
and  west.”  Again,  my  friend  Mr.  Frederick  Green,  who 
visited  the  Lake  shortly  after  its  discovery,  thus  states,  in 
his  manuscript  journal,  the  impression  he  experienced  on  first 
viewing  it. 

“The  day  after  reaching  the  town  of  Batoani,  we  took  a 
ride  to  view  the  Lake.  From  the  southern  side,  we  could 
trace  the  opposite  shore  some  ten  or  twelve  miles,  but  be- 
yond that  distance,  and  to  the  westward,  we  could  not,  even 
with  the  aid  of  a telescope,  discern  any  sign  of  land — only  a 
blue  horizon  of  water.  In  a subsequent  journey,  however, 
and  when  traveling  along  its  southern  shores,  I found  that 
the  opposite  strand  could  always  be  seen.  When  first  view- 
ing it,  we  were  not,  as  we  then  thought,  looking  across,  but 
lengthwise .” 

The  whole  circumference  is  probably  about  sixty  or  seven- 
ty geographical  miles ; its  average  breadth  is  seven  miles,  and 
not  exceeding  nine  at  its  widest  parts.  Its  shape,  moreover, 
is  narrow  in  the  middle  and  bulging  out  at  the  two  ends ; 
and  I may  add,  that  the  first  reports  received  many  years 
ago  from  the  natives  about  the  Lake,  and  which  concurred  in 
representing  it  of  the  shape  of  a pair  of  spectacles,  are  correct. 

The  northern  shore  of  Ngami  is  low  and  sandy,  without  a 
tree  or  bush,  or  any  other  kind  of  vegetation  within  half  a 
mile,  and  more  commonly  a mile.  Beyond  this  distance 
(almost  all  round  the  lake)  the  country  is  very  thickly  wood- 
ed with  various  sorts  of  acacia  indigenous  to  Southern  Africa, 
the  Damara  “ parent  tree,”  a few  species  of  wild  fruit-trees. 


426 


GREAT  CHANGES  IN  THE  LAKE. 


and  here  and  there  an  occasional  baobob,  which  raises  its 
enormous  head  high  above  the  highest  giant  of  the  forest. 
The  southern  coast  of  the  Lake  is  considerably  elevated,  and 
the  water  is  so  closely  fringed  by  extensive  belts  of  reeds  and 
rushes  that  it  is  only  accessible  in  a few  places,  or  where  the 
native  cattle  have  broken  through  these  natural  defenses. 
The  west  shore  of  the  Lake  is  also  somewhat  raised,  though 
the  water  is  very  shallow ; but  it  deepens  considerably  to- 
ward its  eastern  extremity. 

The  Ngami  must  have  undergone  very  considerable  changes 
at  different  periods.  The  natives  have  frequently  pointed 
out  to  me  places,  now  covered  with  vegetation,  where  they 
used  to  spear  the  hippopotamus.  Again,  there  are  unmis- 
takable proofs  of  its  having  been  at  one  time  of  smaller  di- 
mensions than  at  present,  for  submerged  stumps  of  trees  are 
constantly  met  with.  This  is  not,  I believe,  to  be  attributed 
to  the  upheaving  or  to  the  sinking  of  the  land,  but  that,  in 
all  probability,  the  Lake  was  originally  of  its  present  size, 
or  nearly  so,  when  a sudden  and  unusually  large  flood  poured 
into  it  from  the  interior,  which,  on  account  of  the  flatness 
of  the  country,  could  not  be  drained  off  as  quickly  as  it  flow- 
ed in,  but  caused  the  water  to  rise  above  its  usual  height, 
which,  remaining  in  that  state  some  time,  soon  destroyed  the 
vegetation. 

Before  the  Lake  was  known,  and  when  only  rumors  had 
reached  us  of  its  existence,  the  natives  spoke  of  its  waters  as 
retiring  daily  to  “ feed.”  But  I am  rather  inclined  to  think 
they  pointed  to  a singular  phenomenon  that  I observed  when 
navigating  its  broad  waters,  which  I then  attributed  to  the 
wind,  though,  on  consideration,  I suspect  it  was  more  likely 
to  have  arisen  from  the  effects  of  the  moon’s  attraction. 

When  navigating  the  Lake,  we  were  in  the  habit  of  land- 
ing every  night  to  bivouac,  always  taking  the  precaution  to 
unload  the  most  important  articles  of  our  baggage.  The 
canoes  were  then  pushed  in  shore  as  far  as  the  shallowness 


THE  TEOGE ITS  SOURCE  UNKNOWN. 


427 


of  the  water  would  permit,  and  left  to  themselves,  perhaps, 
as  far  as  two  hundred  yards  from  terra  firma . On  remon- 
strating with  the  boatmen  for  not  better  securing  our  little 
flotilla,  they  replied  that  any  further  precautions  were  un- 
necessary, inasmuch  as  the  water  (which  had  already  begun 
to  ebb)  would  shortly  recede  and  leave  the  canoes  dry  on  the 
beach.  I felt  skeptical,  but,  nevertheless,  allowed  them  to 
have  their  own  way.  In  the  course  of  the  night  it  fell  calm 
(a  fresh  breeze  had  been  blowing  during  the  day),  and  next 
morning  we  found  that  what  the  boatmen  had  predicted  was 
fulfilled ; the  canoes  were  as  far  from  the  water  as,  on  the 
preceding  evening,  they  had  been  from  the  shore. 

From  the  time  that  the  wind  fell  the  water  began  slowly 
to  return*  and  about  nine  o’clock  in  the  morning  it  was  at 
its  usual  height,  and  the  canoes  floated  once  more  without 
any  effort  on  our  side. 

The  Lake  is  fed  by  the  Teoge  at  its  northwest  extremity. 
The  river  never,  perhaps,  much  exceeds  forty  yards ; but  it 
is  deep,  and,  when  at  its  greatest  height,  contains  a large  vol- 
ume of  water.  Its  annual  overflow  takes  place  in  June,  July, 
and  August,  and  sometimes  even  later.  The  source  of  the 
Teoge  is  as  yet  unknown,  but  is  supposed  to  be  very  distant. 
It  may  probably  have  its  rise  on  the  same  high  table-land 
as  the  Quanza,  and  other  streams  of  importance.  The  main 
course  of  the  Teoge  is  northwest,  but  it  is  so  serpentine  that, 
in  thirteen  days  when  I ascended  it,  traveling  on  an  average 
five  miles  per  day,  and  reckoning  two  and  a quarter  miles  to 
the  hour,  I only  made  about  one  degree  of  latitude  due  north 
of  the  Lake.  As  far  as  I proceeded,  however,  it  was  naviga- 
ble with  smaller  craft ; for  only  in  three  places  that  I can 
remember  did  I find  less  than  five  feet  of  water,  and,  gener- 
ally speaking,  the  depth  was  considerable.  It  must  be  recol- 
lected, however,  that  it  was  then  at  its  greatest  height. 

Though  that  portion  of  the  Teoge  ascended  by  me  is  nar- 
row, I am  told  that,  on  approaching  its  source,  it  widens 


428 


THE  ZOUGA GREAT  REED  VLEY. 


considerably  (one  of  the  many  curious  points  in  African 
geography)  ; and  the  country  on  both  sides  is  often  inundated 
to  a very  great  extent,  frequently  having  the  appearance  of 
an  endless  lake,  thickly  overgrown  with  reeds  and  rushes, 
and  dotted  with  islets  covered  with  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs. 

At  its  eastern  extremity  the  Ngami  finds  an  outlet  (the 
only  one)  in  the  fine  and  stately  Zouga.  This  river,  near  to 
Batoana-town,  where  it  escapes  from  the  Lake,  is-about  two 
hundred  yards  wide,  and,  from  its  gentle  flow,  appears  at 
rest,  the  motion  of  the  stream  being  imperceptible  to  the  eye. 
Indeed,  it  is  asserted  by  some — and  should  it  be  found  cor- 
rect, it  certainly  would  be  a most  extraordinary  fact — that 
the  waters  of  the  Zouga  are,  at  one  time  of  the  year,  forced 
back  into  the  Lake  by  a branch  of  the  Teoge,  which  river 
thus  not  only  feeds  the  Lake  at  its  northwest  extremity,  as 
has  been  already  stated,  but  at  the  east  as  well.  From  the 
very  imperfect  development  of  the  water-courses  in  these 
parts,  I do  not  think  this  impossible. 

The  Zouga  continues  to  run  in  an  easterly  direction  from 
the  Lake  for  nearly  a month’s  journey,  or  a distance  of  about 
three  hundred  miles,  taking  all  the  windings  into  account, 
when  it  is  lost  in  an  immense  marsh  or  sand-flat,*  called,  by 
some,  Great  Reed  Vley.  It  is  a perfect  sea  of  reeds  (with 
occasional  openings),  and  affords  a favorite  resort  to  innu- 
merable herds  of  buffaloes. 

About  twenty  miles  before  the  Zouga  ceases  to  flow  it  ex- 
pands into  a lake  from  two  to  four  miles  broad,  and  about 
twelve  or  fifteen  in  extent.  During  the  dry  season  this  riv- 
er presents  “ a series  of  pools  with  dry  spaces  between.” 

The  vegetation  all  along  its  course  is  varied  and  luxuri- 

* Many  are  of  opinion  that  this  river  continues  to  flow  subterrane- 
ously,  and  that  it  ultimately  finds  an  outlet  into  the  sea  on  the  east 
coast.  It  is  by  no  means  uncommon  in  African  geography — and  we 
have  in  England  an  instance  of  it  in  the  Mole — to  find  a river  sud- 
denly disappearing  and  as  unexpectedly  reappearing  at  some  little 
distance. 


THE  ZOUGA. 


429 


ant,  and  in  some  places  the  scenery  is  quite  charming,  the 
banks  of  the  river  being  often,  to  the  very  water’s  edge,  cov- 
ered with  majestic  trees  of  beautiful  and  dense  foliage.  The 
baobob  is  particularly  conspicuous,  attaining,  not  unfrequent- 
ly,  round  its  stem,  a girth  of  from  sixty  to  seventy-five  feet. 
“ The  banks,”  says  Mr.  Livingstone,  in  a letter  to  a friend, 
“are  beautiful  beyond  any  we  had  ever  seen,  except,  per- 
haps, some  parts  of  the  Clyde.  * * * The  higher  we  as- 

cended the  river  the  broader  it  became,  until  we  often  saw 
more  than  one  hundred  yards  of  clear  deep  water  between 
the  broad  belt  of  reed  which  grows  in  the  shallower  parts. 
* * * One  remarkable  feature  in  this  river  is  its  period- 

ical rise  and  fall.  It  has  risen  nearly  three  feet  since  our  ar- 
rival ; and  this  is  the  dry  season.  That  the  rise  is  not  caused 
by  rains  is  evident  from  the  water  being  so  pure.  Its  purity 
and  softness  increased  as  we  ascended  toward  its  junction 
with  the  Tamanakle,  from  which,  although  connected  with 
the  lake,  it  derives  its  present  increased  supply.  The  people 
could  give  no  reason  for  the  rise  of  the  water  further  than 
that  a chief,  who  lives  in  a part  of  the  country  to  the  north, 
called  Mazzekiva,  kills  a man  annually  and  throws  his  body 
into  the  stream,  after  which  the  water  begins  to  flow.” 
Before  closing  my  remarks  on  the  rivers  of  the  Lake,  I 
must  beg  to  draw  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  a circum- 
stance which  may  prove  of  the  most  vital  interest  to  the  civ- 
ilization and  commerce  of  these  regions.  It  is  as  follows : 
About  two  days  west  of  the  Teoge,  two  rivers  are  report- 
ed to  exist.  The  one  is  a small  branch  of  the  Teoge,  and  is 
supposed,  after  meandering  through  a desert  for  a couple  of 
days,  to  lose  itself  in  a marsh.  The  second  (and  to  which  I 
particularly  desire  to  draw  notice)  is  of  larger  dimensions, 
though,  near  to  its  source,  only  periodical.  In  its  course, 
however,  it  is  fed  by  fountains — not  an  uncommon  thing  in 
Africa — and  it  soon  increases  to  a constantly  running  stream. 
In  due  time  it  becomes  a mighty  river,  flowing  slowly  through 


430 


THE  MUKURU-MUKOVANJA. 


the  country  of  several  black  nations,  and  ultimately  discharg- 
ing itself  into  the  sea.  This  is  the  statement  of  a party  of 
Griquas  who  traveled  in  this  direction  in  search  of  elephants. 
I should,  perhaps,  have  hesitated  to  give  credit  to  their  ac- 
count had  it  not,  on  more  than  one  occasion,  been  corrobo- 
rated. While  on  our  visit  to  the  Ovambo,  we  inquired,  as 
mentioned,  if  they  were  not  aware  of  any  permanently  run- 
ning river  in  their  neighborhood,  to  which  they  immediately 
and  unhesitatingly  replied  in  the  affirmative.  “The  Cu- 
nene,”  they  said,  “ was  only  four  or  five  days’  foot-journey 
distant  from  them,”  but  added  “ that  it  was  not  to  be  com- 
pared with  a river  called  Mukuru-Mukovanja,  that  comes 
out  of  Ovatjona-land  (clearly  the  Bechuana  country),  of 
which  the  Cunene  is  only  a branch.”  This  valuable  and  in- 
teresting information  was  confirmed  by  the  Hill-Damaras. 

Again,  when  Mr.  Galt  on  and  myself,  distant  only  some 
eight  or  ten  days’  journey  from  the  Lake,  were  obliged  to 
retrace  our  steps  on  account  of  excessive  drought,  we  were 
informed  by  the  Bushmen  of  the  existence  of  a large  river 
to  the  north,  coming  from  Bechuana-land,  and  running  west- 
ward. They  further  added  that  another  small  river  comes 
from  the  same  direction,  but  is  soon  lost  in  the  sand,  or  ter- 
minates in  a marsh.  Now,  excepting  that  the  latter  is  a 
branch  of  the  Teoge  (instead  of  having  its  source  in  the 
Lake,  in  common  with  the  large  river,  as  they  asserted),  their 
account  may  be  said  to  have  been  substantiated. 

From  these  statements,  the  existence  of  a river,  in  all 
probability  of  great  magnitude,  and  perhaps  navigable  to  its 
very  source,  or  nearly  so,  is  so  far  authenticated  that  I have 
had  no  hesitation  in  laying  it  down  on  my  map.  Assuming 
that  the  Teoge  and  the  Mukuru-Mukovanja  run  parallel, 
though  in  contrary  directions,  at  the  distance  from  each  other 
of  two  or  three  days’  journey,  as  I was  informed  by  the 
Griquas  above  mentioned,  there  exists  an  almost  uninterrupt- 
ed navigation  of  several  hundred  miles,  affording  a compara- 


THE  LECHE. 


43  i 


tively  easy  transport  to  the  sea-coast  of  the  produce  of  a rich 
and  fertile  interior. 

A great  variety  of  animals  are  found  in  the  Lake  regions, 
more  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  rivers,*  such  as  ele- 
phants, rhinoceroses,  buffaloes,  giraffes,  koodoos,  pallahs,  &c., 
as  also  two  new  species  of  antelopes,  the  nakong  and  the 
leche,  both  of  which  are  well  represented  on  the  following 
plate. 

The  leche  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  pallah,  but  is 
altogether  a larger  animal.  In  size,  indeed,  it  almost  equals 
the  water-buck  ( aigocerus  ellipsipry minus),  and  the  horns  are 
very  similar  to  those  of  the  male  of  that  beast.  The  general 
color  of  the  skin  is  a pale  brown ; chest,  belly,  and  orbits, 
white ; and  front  of  legs  dark  brown.  The  fur  (which  in  the 
young  animal  is  long,  soft,  and  often  curly)  of  the  adult  is 
short  and  66  adpressed.”  The  upper  part  of  the  nape  and 
withers  are  provided  with  a small  whorl  of  hair.  The  tip 
of  the  tail  (slender  at  the  base)  is  adorned  with  a tuft  of 
black  hair. 

The  leche  is  a species  of  water-buck  ; for,  though  not  act- 
ually living  in  water,  he  is  never  found  any  distance  from  it. 
When  pursued,  the  leche  unhesitatingly  plunges  into  the 
water,  however  deep.  Great  numbers  are  annually  destroy- 
ed by  the  Bayeye,  who  convert  their  hides  into  a kind  of  rug 
for  sleeping  on,  carosses,  and  other  articles  of  wearing  apparel. 

To  the  best  of  my  belief,  the  nakong  has  never  been  de- 
scribed by  naturalists.  I Unfortunately,  the  materials  I pos- 

* Dr.  Livingstone  informs  us  that  on  the  first  discovery  of  the 
Zouga,  its  hanks  literally  swarmed  with  wild  animals,  and  that  in  the 
course  of  three  years  no  less  than  nine  hundred  elephants  were  killed. 
However,  from  the  persecution  to  which  the  game  is  constantly  ex- 
posed, and  the  introduction  of  fire-arms,  the  number  of  animals  has 
rapidly  decreased,  and  what  remain  are  wild  and  wary. 

f Dr.  Gray,  of  the  British  Museum,  to  whom  I submitted  an  imper- 
fect skin  and  a sketch  of  the  head  of  the  nakong,  is  unable  to  determ- 
ine its  exact  nature,  but  seems  inclined  to  consider  it  identical  with 


432 


NAKONG  AND  LECHE. 


NAKONG  AND  LECHE. 


THE  NAKONG. 


433 


sessed,  and  which  would,  in  some  degree,  have  enabled  me  to 
supply  this  deficiency,  were  left  behind  in  Africa.  Through 
the  kindness  of  Colonel  Steele,  an  opportunity  has  been  af- 
forded me  of  inspecting  one  or  two  heads  of  the  nakong,  as 
also  a caross  (brought  from  the  Lake  Ngami  by  Mr.  O swell) 
made  out  of  pieces  of  the  skins  of  this  animal.  But  they  are 
all  so  imperfect  that  to  attempt  any  thing  like  a scientific 
description  would  be  ineffectual ; the  more  so,  perhaps,  as  X 
only  once  had  an  opportunity  of  viewing  a pair  of  nakongs, 
and  that  was  at  a distance.  Suffice  it,  therefore,  to  say,  that 
the  general  color  of  the  animal  is  a subdued  brown,  darkest 
on  the  back,  and  on  the  front  of  head  and  legs.  Beneath  it 
is  of  a lighter  hue — almost  ash-colored.  On  each  side  of  the 
rump,  as  also  on  the  inside  of  the  legs,  if  X remember  rightly, 
there  is  a whitish  line  or  patch.  The  hair  of  the  skin,  which 
is  much  used  by  the  natives  for  carosses,  is  long  and  coarse. 
The  horns  are  black,  very  like  those  of  the  koodoo,  and,  in 
the  adult  animal,  would  appear  to  attain  to  an  equal,  if  not 
larger  size.  Before  they  are  much  developed  there  is  scarce- 

the  tragdaphus  eurycerus — the  broad-horned  antelope — of  which  speci- 
mens of  horns  and  heads  have  been  brought  from  the  Bight  of  Biafra, 
on  the  west  coast  of  Africa.  In  the  “ Proceedings  of  the  Zoological 
Society,”  No.  250,  p.  47,  the  following  details  appear: 

“Head,  pale  brown.  Broad  band  before 'the  eyes,  and  two  large 
spots  on  cheeks ; chin  and  front  of  upper  lip  white.  Horns  elongate, 
thick,  scarcely  bent  forward  at  the  tip.  Throat  with  long  black  hairs.” 
Again,  from  a head  in  Mr.  Warwick’s  collection : 

“ The  horns  are  very  similar  to  those  of  t.  angasii , but  the  head  is 
considerably  larger,  nearly  as  large  as  that  of  the  koodoo,  and  the 
horns  are  thicker  and  larger ; they  are  twenty-seven  inches  long  in  a 
straight  line  from  base  to  tip,  and  nine  inches  in  circumference  at  the 
base.  The  hair  of  the  head  is  also  paler  and  more  uniformly  colored, 
and  with  very  large  white  spots  on  the  cheek,  much  larger  than  those 
of  the  koodoo  or  of  t.  angasii.  The  throat  has  a distinct  mane  of  black- 
ish rigid  hairs.  The  muffle  is  very  like  that  of  t.  angasii]  and  larger 
than  that  of  the  koodoo.  The  skull  is  imperfect;  it  has  no  appear 
ance  of  any  suborbital  pit  or  slit.” 

T 


434 


HIPPOPOTAMI OTTERS BIRDS. 


1 y any  indication  of  spiral  turns,  and  they  are  then  not  un- 
like the  horns  of  goats. 

The  nakong  is  a water-buck.  By  means  of  its  peculiarly 
long  hoofs  (which  are  black),  not  unfrequent ly  attaining  a 
length  of  six  to  seven  inches,  it  is  able  to  traverse  with  fa- 
cility the  reedy  bogs  and  quagmires  with  which  the  lake 
country  abounds — localities  only  fit  for  the  feathery  tribe. 
When  at  the  Ngami  I offered  very  tempting  rewards  to  the 
natives  if  they  would  bring  me  this  animal  either  dead  or 
alive ; but  they  protested  that,  though  they  frequently  kill 
the  nakong  by  pitfalls  and  spears,  it  was  not  then  possible 
to  gratify  my  wishes,  as,  at  that  season,  the  beast  dwelt  al- 
most entirely  in  muddy  and  watery  localities,  where  any  at- 
tempt to  follow  it  would  be  certain  destruction  to  a man. 

Hippopotami  abound  on  the  northern  side  of  the  Ngami, 
and  more  especially  toward  its  northwest  extremity,  or  to 
the  right  of  where  the  Teoge  Biver  enters  the  lake. 

Otters  are  not  uncommon  in  the  rivers  and  the  Lake.  They 
appear  to  be  of  the  same  species  as  with  us,  but  present  great 
variety  of  color.  The  fur  is  good,  and  much  sought  after. 

If  the  quadrupeds  of  the  Lake  Fauna  are  numerous  and 
varied,  the  aves  class  is  no  less  rich  and  abundant.  In  our 
first  journey  through  Damara-land  I had  made  such  a com- 
plete collection  of  its  birds  and  insects  that  I almost  despair- 
ed of  obtaining  any  thing  new  and  interesting;  but  here  I 
found  at  once  an  unexplored  and  almost  unlimited  field  for 
the  naturalist.  Unfortunately,  I was  not  in  a state  to  be 
able  to  benefit,  to  any  extent,  by  its  abundance  and  variety, 
which  I regret  exceedingly. 

The  aquatic  birds  were  particularly  numerous  and  varied. 
A friend  who  visited  the  Lake  assured  me  that  here  and  on 
the  Zouga  he  had,  at  one  time  and  another,  killed  specimens 
of  no  less  than  nineteen  species  of  ducks  and  geese.  One  of 
the  latter  varieties  is  not  larger  than  a common  teal,  but 
clothed  in  the  most  brilliant  plumage.  The  herons  and 


THE  CROCODILE. 


435 


water-hens  vie  with  the  duck  tribe  in  numbers  and  gaudi- 
ness of  plumage.  During  a hurried  journey  up  the  Teoge, 
I procured,  in  a short  time,  herons  of  upward  of  ten  distinct 
species,  besides  several  different  kinds  of  storks,  cranes,  &c. 

The  Lake  and  its  rivers  swarm  with  crocodiles.  During 
the  cold  time  of  the  year  they  resort  to  deep  water,  where 
they  remain  in  a state  of  comparative  inactivity  ; but  on  the 
approach  of  the  hot  season  they  again  come  forward,  and 
may  be  seen  lying  in  great  numbers  along  the  banks,  basking 
in  the  noonday  sun,  and  looking  exactly  like  so  many  logs  of 
wood.  I have  often  surprised  them  in  this  position ; and, 
if  not  too  close,  they  have  invariably  feigned  to  be  asleep. 
The  instant,  however,  that  I have  raised  my  gun,  or  even 
merely  pointed  toward  them,  they  have  plunged  into  the  deep 
like  a shot. 

They  are  said  occasionally  to  attain  a gigantic  size,  but 
no  authenticated  instance  has  come  to  my  knowledge  of  any 
specimen  being  killed  which  measured  above  fifteen  or  sixteen 
feet,  though  I have  heard  it  asserted  that  they  sometimes 
reach  double  that  length. 

The  crocodile  chiefly  lives  on  quadrupeds,  which  he  lies  in 
wait  for,  and  destroys  when  coming  to  drink ; but  he  is  said 
never  to  devour  his  prey  before  the  flesh  has  arrived  at  a state 
of  putrefaction. 

When  in  its  native  element,  the  power  of  this  animal  must 
be  enormous ; for  if  the  testimony  of  the  inhabitants  is  to  be 
relied  on,  he  not  unfrequently  succeeds  in  destroying  the  buf- 
falo, which  they  say  he  accomplishes  by  seizing  the  beast  by 
the  muzzle  and  dragging  him  into  deep  water,  where  he  suf- 
focates him.  This  being  done,  he  hauls  his  victim  back  to 
the  shore,  and,  pushing  the  carcass  above  water-mark,  watch- 
es over  it  until  it  has  become  nicely  tainted,  when  he  com- 
mences his  feast. 

From  the  moist  and  swampy  nature  of  the  ground  about 
the  Lake  and  the  rivers,  snakes,  as  may  well  be  supposed,  arp 


436 


SERPENTS FISH THE  BATOANA. 


numerous ; but,  though  they  at  times  attain  a gigantic  size, 
they  appear  very  harmless,  being  often  destroyed  by  the  na- 
tives, who  devour  them  with  great  relish.  I never  myself 
saw  a specimen  exceeding  seven  or  eight  feet  in  length,  but 
procured  skins  measuring  fully  three  times  that  size.  The 
Bushmen  assured  me  that  they  not  unfrequently  surprise 
these  monsters  when  asleep  and  gorged,  and  that  on  such  oc- 
casions it  was  not  unusual  to  dispatch  them  with  a blow  on 
the  head  from  the  knob-kierie.  These  snakes  feed  chiefly  on 
birds  and  smaller  quadrupeds. 

The  finny  tribe  was  also  pretty  numerous ; but  my  stay  at 
the  Lake  was  of  too  short  a duration  to  collect  much  infor- 
mation on  this  head.  I saw  and  tasted  many  different  kinds, 
some  of  which  were  most  excellent  eating,  and  had  a rich 
and  agreeable  flavor.  The  only  ones,  however,  which  I re- 
member had  any  likeness  to  northern  fishes  were  a sort  of 
perch,  and  one  or  two  barbel  kinds. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

The  Batoana. — Government. — Eloquence. — Language. — Mythology. 
— Religion.  — Superstition. — The  Rain-maker.  — Polygamy. — Cir- 
cumcision.— Burial. — Disposition  of  the  Bechuanas. — Thievish  Pro- 
pensities.— Dress. — Great  Snuff-takers. — Smoking. — Occupations. 
— Agriculture. — Commerce. — Hunting  and  Eishing. 

The  people  who  dwell  on  the  shores  of  the  Lake  are,  as 
before  said,  called  Batoana,*  under  the  rule  of  Lecholetebe. 
They  are  a small  tribe  of  that  large  family  of  “ blacks” 

* Some  of  the  notions  entertained  of  these  people  before  the  exist- 
ence of  the  Ngami  was  known  to  Europeans  are  curious  and  amusing. 
Captain  Messum,  in  an  article  in  the  Nautical  Magazine  on  “ the  ex- 
ploration of  Western  Africa,”  says  that  he  had  heard  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Lake  regions  represented  as  monsters,  with  only  one  eye  in  the 
centre  of  the  forehead,  and  feeding  on  human  flesh,  as  the  giants  of 
old  used  to  take  their  breakfasts.  “ A baby  was  nothing ; they  swal- 
lowed it  whole.” 


THE  BECHUANAS THE  BATOANA GOVERNMENT.  437 

known  as  Bechuanas,  who,  as  a whole,  are  probably  the  most 
widely  distributed  and  the  most  powerful  of  all  the  dark- 
colored  nations  in  Southern  Africa.  The  Batoana  have  not 
been  long  dwellers  in  the  Lake  regions ; they  came  as  con- 
querors under  Lecholetebe’s  father.  Having  dispossessed  the 
aborigines,  they  reduced  them  to  a state  of  slavery,  giving 
them  a name  corresponding  to  their  condition,  viz.,  j Balcoba 
or  MaJcoba , that  is,  “serfs.”  These  people,  however,  style 
themselves  Bayeye,  or  “Men;”  and  by  that  appellation  I 
shall  hereafter  call  them. 

In  giving  a general  description  of  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms, religious  rites,  superstitions,  &c.,  of  the  Bechuanas — 
the  parent  stock,  as  shown,  of  the  Batoanas — I shall  also  have 
described  those  of  the  latter  tribe ; for,  though  they  may  differ 
in  some  respects,  they  agree  in  the  main. 

“ The  government  of  the  people  is  at  once  both  monarch- 
ical and  patriarchal,  and  comparatively  mild  in  its  character. 
Each  tribe  has  its  chief  or  king,  who  commonly  resides  in  the 
largest  town,  and  is  held  sacred  from  his  hereditary  right  to 
that  office.  A tribe  generally  includes  a number  of  towns  or 
villages,  each  having  its  distinct  head,  under  whom  there  are 
a number  of  subordinate  chiefs.  These  constitute  the  aris- 
tocracy of  the  nation,  and  all  acknowledge  the  supremacy  of 
the  principal  one.  His  power,  though  very  great,  and  in 
some  instances  despotic,  is,  nevertheless,  controlled  by  the 
senior  chiefs,  who,  in  their  pichos  or  pitshos  (their  Parliament 
or  public  meetings),  use  the  greatest  plainness  of  speech  in 
exposing  what  they  consider  culpable  or  lax  in  his  govern- 
ment. An  able  speaker  will  sometimes  turn  the  scale  even 
against  the  king.  * * * These  assemblies  keep  up  a 

tolerable  equilibrium  of  power  between  the  chiefs  and  their 
king ; but  they  are  only  convened  when  it  is  necessary  to 
adjust  differences  between  tribes — when  a predatory  expedi- 
tion is  to  be  undertaken — or  when  the  removal  of  a tribe  is 


438 


THE  BECHUANA  PICHO ELOQUENCE. 


THE  BECHUANA  PICHO. 

contemplated,  though  occasionally  matters  of  less  moment 
are  introduced.”* 

The  language  used  by  the  natives  on  public  occasions,  and 
more  especially  by  the  chiefs,  is  often  powerful,  eloquent, 
shrewd,  and  fluent,  and  would  do  honor  to  the  best  edu- 
cated European.  Take  the  following  speech  as  an  example, 
which  contains  the  address  of  the  famous  Basuto  king,  Mo- 
sheshe,  to  his  people,  when  congratulating  them  on  the  happy 
event  of  having  received  three  worthy  missionaries  among 
them : 

“Rejoice,  you  Makare  and  Mokatchani!  you  rulers  of 
cities,  rejoice!  We  have  all  reason  to  rejoice  on  account  of 
the  news  we  have  heard.  There  are  a great  many  sayings 
among  men.  Among  them  some  are  true  and  some  are 
false ; but  the  false  have  remained  with  us  and  multiplied ; 
therefore  we  ought  to  pick  up  carefully  the  truths  we  hear, 
lest  they  should  be  lost  in  the  rubbish  of  lies.  We  are  told 
that  we  have  all  been  created  by  one  Being,  and  that  we  all 
spring  from  one  man.  Sin  entered  man’s  heart  when  he  ate 

* Moffat. 


LANGUAGE — -MYTHOLOGY. 


439 


the  forbidden  fruit,  and  we  have  got  sin  from  him.  These 
men  say  that  they  have  sinned ; and  what  is  sin  in  them  is 
sin  in  us,  because  we  come  from  one  stock,  and  their  hearts 
and  ours  are  one  thing.  Ye  Makare  have  heard  these  words, 
and  you  say  they  are  lies.  If  these  words  do  not  conquer, 
the  fault  will  lie  with  you.  You  say  you  will  not  believe 
what  you  do  not  understand.  Look  at  an  egg ! If  a man 
break  it,  there  comes  only  a watery  and  yellow  substance  out 
of  it ; but  if  it  be  placed  under  the  wing  of  a fowl,  a living 
thing  comes  from  it.  Who  can  understand  this  ? Who  ever 
knew  how  the  heat  of  the  hen  produced  the  chicken  in  the 
egg  ? This  is  incomprehensible  to  us,  yet  we  do  not  deny 
the  fact.  Let  us  do  like  the  hen.  Let  us  place  these  truths 
in  our  hearts  as  the  hen  does  the  eggs  under  her  wings ; let 
us  sit  upon  them,  and  take  the  same  pains,  and  something 
new  will  come  of  them.” 

The  language  of  the  Bechuanas  (the  plural  of  Mochuana, 
a single  individual)  is  called  Sichuana,  an  adjective  imply- 
ing any  thing  belonging  to  the  nation.  It  is  exceedingly  soft 
and  mellifluous,  owing  to  there  being  few  syllables  that  end 
with  a consonant.  The  only  exceptions  are  u nouns  in  the 
ablative  case,  plural  verbs,  verbs  definite,  and  the  interroga- 
tives  why , how , and  what , all  of  which  end  with  the  ringing  n.” 

The  first  acquaintance  of  Europeans  with  the  Bechuanas 
dates  from  an  early  period  of  the  history  of  the  Cape  Colony. 
There  is  reason  to  believe  that  this  nation  once  extended  as 
far  as  the  Orange  River,  but  at  the  present  day  none  of 
the  tribes  are  found  beyond  the  28th  parallel  of  south  lati- 
tude. 

The  Bechuanas  (as  already  mentioned  in  the  history  of 
the  Damaras)  believe  that  they  originally  sprang  from  a cave, 
said  to  exist  in  the  Bakone  country,  where  the  footmarks  of 
the  first  man  may  still  be  seen  in  the  rock. 

If  we  are  to  credit  the  testimony  of  some  missionaries,  the 
Bechuanas  have  no  notion  of  a Superior  Being.  It  is  a 


440 


RELIGION. 


strong  argument  in  favor  of  this  hypothesis  that  no  word  in 
their  language  properly  denotes  God.  Speaking  of  these 
people,  Mr.  Moffat  says : “ I have  often  wished  to  find  some- 
thing by  which  I could  lay  hold  on  the  minds  of  the  natives ; 
an  ‘ altar  to  the  unknown  God/  the  faith  of  their  ancestors, 
the  immortality  of  the  soul,  or  any  religious  association ; 
but  nothing  of  this  kind  ever  floated  in  their  minds.  4 They 
-looked  on  the  sun  with  the  eyes  of  an  ox.’  To  tell  the  great- 
est of  them  that  there  was  a Creator,  the  Governor  of  the 
heavens  and  earth — of  the  fall  of  man,  or  the  redemption  of 
the  world — the  resurrection  of  the  dead,  and  immortality  be- 
yond the  grave,  was  to  tell  them  what  appeared  to  be  more 
fabulous,  extravagant,  and  ludicrous  than  their  own  vain 
stories  about  lions,  hyaenas,  and  jackals.  To  tell  them  that 
these  (referring,  of  course,  to  the  different  elements  of  our 
creed)  were  articles  of  our  faith  would  extort  an  interjection 
of  superlative  surprise,  as  if  they  were  too  preposterous  for 
the  most  foolish  to  believe.” 

“‘What  is  the  differenced  said  a native  one  day  to  the 
writer  just  quoted,  pointing  to  his  dog, ‘ between  me  and  that 
animal  ? You  say  I am  immortal,  and  why  not  my  dog  or 
my  ox?  They  die;  and  do  you  see  their  souls?  What  is 
the  difference  between  man  and  beast?  None,  except  that 
man  is  the  greater  rogue  of  the  two !’ 

“ They  could  not  see  that  there  was  any  thing  in  our  cus- 
toms more  agreeable  to  flesh  and  blood  than  in  their  own, 
but  would,  at  the  same  time,  admit  that  we  were  a wiser 
and  a superior  race  of  beings  to  themselves.  For  this  supe- 
riority, some  of  their  wise  heads  would  try  to  account ; but 
this  they  could  only  do  on  the  ground  of  our  own  statement, 
that  God  made  man. 

“A  wily  fellow,  who  was  the  oracle  of  the  village  in  which 
he  dwelt,  once  remarked,  after  hearing  me  enlarge  on  the 
subject  of  creation,  ‘If  you  verily  believe  that  one  Being 
created  all  men,  then,  according  to  reason,  you  must  also  be- 


SUPERSTITION THE  RAIN-MAKER. 


441 


lieve  that,  in  making  white  people,  he  had  improved  on  his 
work.  He  tried  his  hand  on  Bushmen  first,  and  he  did  not 
like  them,  because  they  were  so  ugly,  and  their  language 
like  that  of  frogs.  He  then  tried  his  hand  on  the  Hottentots; 
but  these  did  not  please  him  either.  He  then  exercised  his 
power  and  skill,  and  made  the  Bechuanas,  which  was  a great 
improvement;  and  at  last  he  made  the  white  people.  There- 
fore,’ exulting  with  an  air  of  triumph  at  the  discovery, 4 the 
white  people  are  so  much  wiser  than  we  are  in  making  walk- 
ing houses  (wagons),  teaching  the  oxen  to  draw  them  over 
hill  and  dale,  and  instructing  them  also  to  plow  the  gardens, 
instead  of  making  their  wives  do  it,  like  the  Bechuanas.’  ” 

Dealers  in  the  black  art  are  numerous  among  the  Bechua- 
nas, who  place  the  most  implicit  confidence  in  the  sayings 
and  prescriptions  of  the  wizards.  This  applies  more  especial- 
ly to  those  persons  who  devote  themselves  to  the  study  of 
“ rain-making.” 

The  rain-maker  possesses  an  influence  over  the  minds  of 
the  people  superior  even  to  that  of  their  king,  who  is  like- 
wise compelled  to  yield  to  the  dictates  of  these  “ arch-offi- 
cials.” They  are,  in  general,  men  of  natural  talent  and  in- 
genuity. Indeed,  it  is  probable  that,  in  the  full  conscious- 
ness of  their  superiority,  they  are  emboldened  to  lay  the 
public  mind  prostrate  before  their  mysteries.  Being,  more- 
over, usually  foreigners,  they  take  good  care  to  magnify  pro- 
digiously their  feats  abroad.  Each  tribe  has  one  rain-maker, 
and  sometimes  more.  The  wizards  are  also  doctors ; and,  at 
times,  they  assume  the  office  of  sextons  by  superintending  the 
disposal  of  the  dead,  it  being  generally  believed  that  the 
ceremonies  practiced  by  these  impostors  have  some  influence 
over  the  watery  treasures  floating  in  the  skies.  It  not  un- 
frequently  happens  that  the  rain-maker  prohibits  the  usual 
form  of  interment,  and  perhaps  orders  the  dead  to  be  dragged 
to  a distance  to  be  devoured  by  beasts  of  prey. 

Mr.  Moffat,  in  his  “ Missionary  Labors  and  Scenes  in 

T2 


442 


THE  RAIN-MAKER. 


Southern  Africa/’  has  given  at  some  length  a very  striking 
account  of  one  of  these  rain-makers,  which  amply  illustrates 
the  immense  influence  exercised  by  them  over  the  ignorant 
and  superstitious  mind,  as  also  the  craft  and  ingenuity  of  the 
men  themselves,  in  order  to  effect  their  purpose.  It  is  in 
substance  as  follows : 

Having  for  a number  of  years  experienced  severe  droughts, 
the  Bechuanas  at  Kuruman  held  a council  as  to  the  best 
measures  for  removing  the  evil.  After  some  debate,  a reso- 
lution was  passed  to  send  for  a rain-maker  of  great  renown, 
then  staying  among  the  Bahurutsi,  two  hundred  miles  IST.E. 
of  the  station.  Accordingly,  commissioners  were  dispatched, 
with  strict  injunctions  not  to  return  without  the  man;  but 
it  was  with  some  misgivings  as  to  the  success  of  their  mission 
that  the  men  started.  However,  by  large  promises,  they  suc- 
ceeded beyond  their  most  sanguine  expectations. 

During  the  absence  of  the  embassadors  the  heavens  had 
been  as  brass,  and  scarcely  a passing  cloud  obscured  the  sky, 
which  blazed  with  the  dazzling  rays  of  a vertical  sun.  But, 
strange  to  relate,  the  very  day  that  the  approach  of  the  rain- 
maker was  announced,  the  clouds  began  to  gather  thickly, 
the  lightning  darted,  and  the  thunder  rolled  in  awful  gran- 
deur, accompanied  by  a few  drops  of  rain.  The  deluded 
multitude  were  wild  with  delight;  they  rent  the  sky  with 
their  acclamations  of  joy,  and  the  earth  rang  with  their  ex- 
ulting and  maddening  shouts.  Previously  to  entering  the 
town,  the  rain-maker  sent  a peremptory  order  to  all  the  in- 
habitants to  wash  their  feet.  Scarcely  was  the  message  de- 
livered before  every  soul,  young  and  old,  noble  and  ignoble, 
flew  to  the  adjoining  river  to  obey  the  command  of  the  man 
who  they  imagined  was  now  collecting  in  the  heavens  all 
his  stores  of  rain. 

The  impostor  proclaimed  aloud  that  this  year  the  women 
must  cultivate  gardens  on  the  hills  and  not  in  the  valleys, 
for  the  latter  would  be  deluged.  The  natives,  in  their  enthu- 


THE  RAIN-MAKER. 


443 


siasm,  saw  already  their  corn-fields  floating  in  the  breeze,  and 
their  flocks  and  herds  return  lowing  homeward  by  noonday 
from  the  abundance  of  pasture.  He  told  them  how,  in  his 
wrath,  he  had  desolated  the  cities  of  the  enemies  of  his  peo- 
ple by  stretching  forth  his  hand  and  commanding  the  clouds 
to  burst  upon  them ; how  he  had  arreste'd  the  progress  of  a 
powerful  army  by  causing  a flood  to  descend,  which  formed 
a mighty  river,  and  stayed  their  course.  These,  and  many 
other  pretended  displays  of  his  power,  were  received  as  sober 
truths,  and  the  chief  and  the  nobles  gazed  on  him  with  silent 
amazement  The  report  of  his  fame  spread  like  wildfire, 
and  the  rulers  of  the  neighboring  tribes  came  to  pay  him 
homage. 

In  order  to  carry  on  the  fraud,  he  would,  when  clouds  ap- 
peared, command  the  women  neither  to  plant  nor  sow,  leg, 
the  seeds  should  be  washed  away.  He  would  also  requir* 
them  to  go  to  the  fields,  and  gather  certain  roots  and  herbs, 
with  which  he  might  light  what  appeared  to  the  natives 
mysterious  fires.  Elate  with  hope,  they  would  go  in  crowds 
to  the  hills  and  valleys,  collect  herbs,  return  to  the  town  with 
songs,  and  lay  their  gatherings  at  the  magician’s  feet.  With 
these  he  would  sometimes  proceed  to  certain  hills,  and  raise 
smoke ; gladly  would  he  have  called  up  the  wind  also,  if  he 
could  have  done  so,  well  knowing  that  the  latter  is  frequent- 
ly the  precursor  of  rain.  He  would  select  the  time  of  new 
and  full  moon  for  his  purpose,  aware  that  at  those  seasons 
there  was  frequently  a change  in  the  atmosphere.  But  the 
rain-maker  found  the  clouds  in  these  parts  rather  harder  to 
manage  than  those  of  the  Bahurutsi  country,  whence  he  came. 

One  day,  as  he  was  sound  asleep,  a shower  fell,  on  which 
one  of  the  principal  men  entered  his  house  to  congratulate 
him  on  the  happy  event;  but,  to  his  utter  amazement,  he 
found  the  magician  totally  insensible  to  what  was  transpir- 
ing. “Hela  ka  rare!  (halloo,  by  my  father!)  I thought  you 
were  making  rain,”  said  the  intruder.  Arising  from  his 


444 


THE  BAIN-MAKER. 


slumber,  and  seeing  his  wife  sitting  on  the  floor,  shaking  a 
milk-sack  in  order  to  obtain  a little  butter  to  anoint  her  hair, 
the  wily  rain-maker  adroitly  replied,  u Do  you  not  see  my  wife 
churning  rain  as  fast  as  she  can  V9  This  ready  answer  gave 
entire  satisfaction ; and  it  presently  spread  through  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  town  that  the  rain-maker  had  churned 
the  shower  out  of  a milk-sack. 

The  moisture,  however,  caused  by  this  shower  soon  dried 
ip,  and  for  many  a long  week  afterward  not  a cloud  ap- 
peared. The  women  had  cultivated  extensive  fields,  but  the 
seed  was  lying  in  the  soil  as  it  had  been  thrown  from  the 
hand ; the  cattle  were  dying  from  want  of  pasture,  and  hund- 
reds of  emaciated  men  were  seen  going  to  the  fields  in  quest 
of  unwholesome  roots  and  reptiles,  while  others  were  perish- 
ing with  hunger. 

All  these  circumstances  irritated  the  rain-maker  very 
much,  and  he  complained  that  secret  rogues  were  disobey- 
ing his  proclamations.  When  urged  to  make  repeated  trials, 
he  would  reply,  “You  only  give  me  sheep  and  goats  to  kill, 
therefore  I can  only  make  goat-rain ; give  me  fat  slaughter 
oxen,  and  I shall  let  you  see  ox-rain.” 

One  night  a small  cloud  passed  over,  and  a single  flash  of 
lightning,  from  which  a heavy  peal  of  thunder  burst,  struck 
a tree  in  the  town.  Next  day  the  rain-maker  and  a number 
of  people  assembled  to  perform  the  usual  ceremony  on  such 
an  event.  The  stricken  tree  was  ascended,  and  roots  and 
ropes  of  grass  were  bound  round  different  parts  of  the  trunk. 
When  these  bandages  were  made,  the  conjuror  deposited 
some  of  his  nostrums,  and  got  quantities  of  water  handed  up, 
which  he  poured  with  great  solemnity  on  the  wounded  tree, 
while  the  assembled  multitude  shouted  “ Pula ! pula !”  The 
i ree  was  now  hewn  down,  dragged  out  of  the  town,  and  burn- 
ed to  ashes.  Soon  after,  the  rain-maker  got  large  bowls  of 
water,  with  which  was  mingled  an  infusion  of  bulbs.  All 
the  men  of  the  town  were  then  made  to  pass  before  him, 


THE  RAIN-MAKER. 


445 


when  he  sprinkled  each  person  with  a zebra’s  tail  dipped  in 
water. 

Finding  that  this  did  not  produce  the  desired  effect,  the 
impostor  had  recourse  to  another  stratagem.  He  well  knew 
that  baboons  were  not  very  easily  caught  among  rocky  glens 
and  shelving  precipices,  and,  therefore,  in  order  to  gain  time, 
he  informed  the  men  that,  to  make  rain,  he  must  have  a bab- 
oon ; moreover,  that  not  a hair  on  his  body  was  to  be  want- 
ing ; in  short,  the  animal  should  be  free  from  blemish.  After 
a long  and  severe  pursuit,  and  with  bodies  much  lacerated,  a 
band  of  chosen  runners  succeeded  in  capturing  a young  bab- 
oon, which  they  brought  back  triumphantly  and  exultingly. 
On  seeing  the  animal,  the  rogue  put  on  a countenance  ex- 
hibiting the  most  intense  sorrow,  exclaiming,  “My  heart  is 
rent  in  pieces!  I am  dumb  with  grief!”  Pointing,  at  the 
same  time,  to  the  ear  of  the  baboon,  that  was  slightly  scratch- 
ed, and  the  tail,  which  had  lost  some  hair,  he  added,  “Did  I 
not  tell  you  I could  not  bring  rain  if  there  was  one  hair 
wanting  ?’ 

He  had  often  said  that,  if  they  could  procure  him  the  heart 
of  a lion,  he  would  show  them  he  could  make  rain  so  abund- 
ant that  a man  might  think  himself  well  off  to  be  under  shel- 
ter, as  when  it  fell  it  might  sweep  whole  towns  away.  He 
had  discovered  that  the  clouds  required  strong  medicines,  and 
that  a lion’s  heart  would  do  the  business.  To  obtain  this, 
the  rain-maker  well  knew,  was  no  joke.  One  day  it  was  an- 
nounced that  a lion  had  attacked  one  of  the  cattle  outposts 
not  far  from  the  town,  and  a party  set  off  for  the  twofold 
purpose  of  getting  a key  to  the  clouds  and  disposing  of  a 
dangerous  enemy.  The  orders  were  imperative,  whatever  the 
consequences  might  be.  Fortunately,  the  lion  was  shot  dead 
by  a man  armed  with  a gun.  Greatly  elated  by  their  suc- 
cess, they  forthwith  returned  with  their  prize,  singing  the 
conqueror’s  song  in  full  chorus.  The  rain-maker  at  once  set 
about  preparing  his  medicines,  kindled  his  fires,  and,  stand- 


446 


THE  RA1N-MAKEK. 


ing  on  the  top  of  a hill,  he  stretched  forth  his  hands,  beckon- 
ing to  the  clouds  to  draw  near,  occasionally  shaking  his 
spear,  and  threatening  them  with  his  ire  should  they  disobey 
his  commands.  The  populace  believed  all  this,  and  wondered 
the  rain  would  not  fall. 

Having  discovered  that  a corpse  which  had  been  put  into 
the  ground  some  weeks  before  had  not  received  enough  wa- 
ter at  its  burial,  and  knowing  the  aversion  of  the  Bechuanas 
to  a dead  body,  he  ordered  the  corpse  to  be  taken  up,  washed, 
and  re-interred.  Contrary  to  his  expectation,  and  horrible 
as  the  ceremony  must  have  been,  it  was  performed.  Still 
the  heavens  remained  inexorable. 

Having  exhausted  his  skill  and  ingenuity,  the  impostor 
began  to  be  sorely  puzzled  to  find  something  on  which  to  lay 
the  blame.  Like  all  of  his  profession,  he  was  a subtle  fel- 
low, in  the  habit  of  studying  human  nature,  affable,  acute, 
and  exhibiting  a dignity  of  mien,  with  an  ample  share  of 
self-complacency,  which  he  could  not  hide.  Hitherto,  he 
had  studiously  avoided  giving  the  least  offense  to  the  mis- 
sionaries, who  he  found  were  men  of  peace,  who  would  not 
quarrel.  He  frequently  condescended  to  visit  them,  and  in 
the  course  of  conversation  would  often  give  a feeble  assent  to 
their  opinion  as  to  the  sources  of  that  element  over  which 
he  pretended  to  have  sovereign  control.  However,  finding 
all  his  wiles  unavailing  to  produce  the  desired  result,  and 
notwithstanding  the  many  proofs  of  kindness  he  had  received 
from  the  missionaries,  he  began  to  hint  that  the  reverend 
gentlemen  were  the  cause  of  the  obstinacy  of  the  clouds! 
One  day  it  was  discovered  that  the  rain  had  been  prevented 
by  Mr.  Moffat  bringing  a bag  of  salt  with  him  from  a jour- 
ney that  he  had  undertaken  to  Griqua-town.  But  finding, 
on  examination,  that  the  reported  salt  was  only  white  clay 
or  chalk,  the  natives  could  not  help  laughing  at  their  own 
credulity. 

From  insinuations  he  proceeded  to  open  accusations.  Aft- 


THE  RAIN-MAKER. 


447 


er  haying  kept  himself  secluded  for  a fortnight,  he  one  day 
appeared  in  the  public  fold  and  proclaimed  that  he  had  at 
last  discovered  the  cause  of  the  drought.  After  keeping  the 
audience  in  suspense  for  a short  time,  he  suddenly  broke  forth, 
“ Do  you  not  see,”  he  asked,  “ when  clouds  cover  us,  that 
Hamilton  and  Moffat  looked  at  them?  Their  white  faces 
scare  them  away,  and  you  can  not  expect  rain  so  long  as 
they  are  in  the  country.”  This  was  a home  stroke.  The 
people  became  impatient,  and  poured  forth  their  curses  against 
the  poor  missionaries  as  the  cause  of  all  their  sorrows.  The 
bell,  which  was  rung  for  public  worship,  they  said,  frightened 
the  vapors  ; the  prayers  even  came  in  for  a share  of  the 
blame.  “ Don’t  you,”  said  the  chief  one  day  rather  fiercely 
to  Mr.  Moffat,  “bow  down  in  your  houses,  and  pray  and 
talk  to  something  bad  in  the  ground?” 

But  to  shorten  a long  story  : after  exposing  the  missiona- 
ries to  much  risk  and  danger  by  his  insinuations  and  accusa- 
tions, the  tables  were  turned  in  their  favor.  The  rain-maker 
was  now  suspected ; his  gross  impositions  were  unveiled,  and 
he  was  about  to  pay  the  penalty  of  death — the  well-merited 
reward  for  his  scandalous  conduct — when  Mr.  Moffat  gener- 
ously interfered,  and,  through  his  presence  of  mind  and  hu- 
manity, succeeded  in  saving  the  life  of  one  who  had  so  often 
threatened  his  own,  and  who  would  not  have  scrupled  to 
take  it,  could  he  thereby  have  served  his  purpose.  Death, 
however,  soon  overtook  him,  for  he  was  eventually  murdered 
among  the  Bauangketsi  nation. 

Mr.  Moffat  concludes  his  remarks  on  the  career  of  this 
notable  rain-maker  by  the  following  observation : 

“It  is  a remarkable  fact  that  a rain -maker  never  dies  a 
natural  death.  I have  known  some,  and  heard  of  many,  who 
had,  by  one  means  or  other,  fallen  a prey  to  the  fury  of  their 
disappointed  employers;  but,  notwithstanding  this,  there 
was  no  want  of  successors.  There  is  not  one  tribe  whose 
people  have  not  imbrued  their  hands  in  the  blood  of  these 


448 


POLYGAMY BURIAL. 


impostors,  whom  they  first  adore,  then  curse,  and  lastly  de- 
stroy.” 

Polygamy  exists  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent.  A man 
may  have  as  many  wives  as  he  chooses,  provided  he  can  pay 
for  such  privilege  the  usual  fees,  which  vary  according  to 
the  wealth  of  the  husband. 

Like  the  Damaras,  the  Bechuanas  practice  circumcision. 
From  an  early  age  upward,  even  to  manhood,  the  males  are 
circumcised.  Children,  however,  born  of  parents  previously 
to  their  having  been  operated  upon,  can  not  inherit  regal 
power.  The  ceremony  being  performed,  the  youth  is  anoint- 
ed, and  at  once  assumes  the  character,  air,  and  dress  of  a 
man.  He  is  also  considered  fit  to  carry  arms. 

The  females  have  also  their  “ religious”  festival  about  the 
same  age  as  the  boys,  and,  for  a certain  period,  are  under 
the  tuition  of  matrons,  who  indoctrinate  them  in  all  the 
duties  of  wives — passive  obedience  being  especially  inculca- 
ted. As  a last  ordeal,  they  are  made  to  carry  a piece  of 
heated  iron,  in  order  to  show  that  their  hands  are  fit  for 
labor.  They  are  then  lubricated  with  grease ; the  lower  part 
of  their  hair  is  shaven  off,  and  the  remainder  profusely  be- 
daubed with  a paste  of  butter  and  sebilo  (dark,  shining  ochre). 
They  now  adopt  the  usual  female  dress.  “ Raised  thus  from 
comparative  infancy  to  what  they  consider  womanhood,  they 
view  themselves  with  as  much  complacency  as  if  they  were 
enrobed  in  the  attire  of  a daughter  of  an  Eastern  potentate. 
They  have  reached  nearly  to  a climax  in  their  life,  for  they 
expect  soon  to  be  married ; to  be  a mother  they  consider  the 
chief  end  of  a woman’s  existence.” 

The  Bechuanas  generally  bury  their  dead.  The  ceremony 
of  interment,  &c.,  varies  in  different  localities,  and  is  influ- 
enced by  the  rank  of  the  deceased ; but  the  following  is  a 
fair  specimen  of  the  way  in  which  these  obsequies  are  man- 
aged. 

On  the  approaching  dissolution  of  a man,  a skin  or  net 


BURIAL  OP  THE  DEAD* 


449 


is  thrown  oven  the  body,  which  is  held  in  a sitting  posture, 
with  the  knees  doubled  up  under  the  chin,  until  life  is  ex- 
tinct. A grave  is  then  dug— very  frequently  in  the  cattle- 
fold-— six  feet  in  depth,  and  about  three  in  width,  the  interior 
being  rubbed  over  with  a certain  large  bulb.  The  body, 
having  the  head  covered,  is  then  conveyed  through  a hole 
made  for  the  purpose  in  the  house  and  the  surrounding  fence, 
and  deposited  in  the  grave  in  a sitting  position,  care  being 
taken  to  put  the  face  of  the  corpse  against  the  north.  “ Por- 
tions of  an  ant-hill  are  placed  about  the  feet,  when  the  net 
which  held  the  body  is  gradually  withdrawn.  As  the  grave 
is  filled  up,  the  earth  is  handed  in  with  bowls,  while  two 
men  stand  in  the  hole  to  tread  it  down  round  the  body,  great 
care  being  taken  to  pick  out  every  thing  like  a root  or  peb- 
ble. When  the  earth  reaches  the  height  of  the  mouth,  a 
small  twig  or  branch  of  an  acacia  is  thrown  in,  and  on  the 
top  of  the  head  a few  roots  of  grass  are  placed.  The  grave 
being  nearly  filled,  another  root  of  grass  is  fixed  immediately 
over  the  head,  part  of  which  stands  above  ground.  When 
this  portion  of  the  ceremony  is  over,  the  men  and  women 
stoop,  and  with  their  hands  scrape  on  to  the  little  mound 
the  loose  soil  lying  about.  A large  bowl  of  water,  with  an 
infusion  of  bulbs,  is  now  brought,  when  the  men  and  women 
wash  their  hands  and  the  upper  part  of  their  feet,  shouting 
6 Pula!  piila!’  (Pain!  rain!)  An  old  woman,  probably 
a relative,  will  then  bring  the  weapons  of  the  deceased  (bow, 
arrows,  war-axe,  and  spears) ; also  grain  and  garden-seeds  of 
various  kinds;  and  even  the  bone  of  an  old  pack-ox,  with 
other  things.  They  finally  address  the  grave,  saying,  c These 
are  all  your  articles.’  The  things  are  then  taken  away,  and 
bowls  of  water  are  poured  on  the  grave,  when  all  retire,  the 
women  wailing  6 Yo ! yo ! yo !’  with  some  doleful  dirge,  sor- 
rowing without  hope.” 

“ The  ancients  were  of  opinion  that  the  face  was  always 
the  index  of  the  mind.  Modern  physiognomists  have  gone 


450  BECHUANA  CHARACTER THIEVISH  PROPENSITIES. 

a step  farther,  pretending  that  a fine  form,  perfect  in  all  its 
parts,  can  not  contain  a crooked  or  an  imperfect  mind.” 
Judging  the  mind  of  a Bechuana  by  such  a rule,  it  would 
not  be  pronounced  deficient  in  talent.  Nor  is  it.  But, 
though  the  Bechuanas  are  a very  superior  race  of  men,  they 
frequently  conceal  cunning  and  duplicity  under  an  open  and 
dignified  exterior.  Any  act,  no  matter  how  disgraceful,  if 
attended  with  success,  will  make  them  perfectly  happy. 
“The  Bechuana  character  is  frank  and  sociable,  which, 
however,  does  not  appear  to  rise  from  benevolence  of  dispo- 
sition, so  much  as  from  a degree  of  etiquette,  and  habits  aris- 
ing from  relationship  and  docility.”  Like  most  barbarians, 
their  political  wisdom  consists  in  duplicity  and  petty  cunning, 
and  their  ordinary  wars  are  merely  predatory  incursions  upon 
weaker  neighbors  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  off  cattle  with, 
as  little  exposure  as  possible  of  their  own  lives. 

They  are  exceedingly  vindictive  and  revengeful ; but  if  the 
injured  party  be  propitiated  with  gifts,  and  the  enemy  ac- 
knowledge the  error  of  his  doings,  apparent  cordiality  and 
unanimity  generally  succeed  to  the  most  inveterate  hatred. 

From  the  king  to  the  slave,  theft  is  a prevailing  vice  with 
the  Bechuanas,  and,  from  what  I have  seen  of  them,  I am 
confident  that  the  wealthiest  and  the  most  exalted  among 
them  would  not  hesitate*  to  steal  the  shirt  off  one’s  back, 
could  he  effect  it  without  being  compromised.  Their  pilfer- 
ing habits  know  no  bounds,  and  they  carry  on  the  game 
with  much  dexterity.  When  grouped  about  our  camp-fires 
I have  known  them  to  abstract  the  tools  with  which  we  have 
been  working ; nay,  indeed,  the  very  knives  and  forks  from 
our  plates.  Once  they  actually  took  the  meat  out  of  the 
pot  as  it  was  boiling  on  the  fire,  substituting  a stone ! They 
will  place  their  feet  over  any  small  article  lying  on  the  ground, 
burying  it  in  the  sand  with  their  toes,  and,  if  unable  to  carry 
it  away  at  the  time,  they  return  to  fetch  it  at  a more  conven- 
ient period. 


THIEVISH  PROPENSITIES. 


451 


I have  suffered  cruelly  from  their  thievish  propensities. 
When  at  the  Lake  they  deprived  me  of  almost  the  whole  of 
my  wardrobe,  besides  numerous  other  articles.  Not  liking 
to  make  a disturbance,  and  knowing  the  uselessness  of  com- 
plaining, I bore  my  misfortunes  for  a time  with  patience ; but 
there  is  a limit  to  every  thing.  Finding,  one  morning,  that 
a bag  containing  no  less  than  forty  pounds  of  shot  (a  most 
invaluable  treasure  to  me)  had  disappeared  in  a mysterious 
manner,  I could  no  longer  restrain  my  rage.  We  tracked 
the  thief  to  the  water,  but  here,  of  course,  all  our  efforts  to 
follow  him  farther  were  frustrated.  I then  proceeded  direct 
to  the  chief,  and  represented  to  him,  in  the  strongest  colors, 
the  abominable  conduct  of  his  people,  who  robbed  me  with 
impunity  under  his  very  eyes,  adding  that  their  behavior 
was  the  more  flagitious,  as  I had  loaded  both  him  and  his 
men  with  presents,  and  treated  them  with  undeviating  kind- 
ness. To  my  astonishment  and  disgust,  he  laughed  outright 
in  my  face,  and  told  me  that  he  could  not  control  his  men  in 
this  respect.  Indeed,  his  own  relations  would  play  him  the 
same  trick. 

“ So  much  the  more  disgraceful  to  you,”  I remarked,  add- 
ing that  he  might  rest  assured  I would  take  good  care  to  tell 
my  countrymen  of  the  villainous  conduct  of  the  people  at 
Lake  Ngami. 

u Well,”  he  replied,  “ I really  can  not  assist  you  in  this 
matter,  but  will  give  you  wholesome  advice,  and  my  author- 
ity for  acting  on  it ; that  is,  to  hang  on  the  nearest  tree  the 
first  man  you  catch  stealing.” 

He  said  this  with  so  much  coolness,  indifference,  and  good- 
humor,  that  I could  not,  vexed  as  I was,  refrain  from  smil- 
ing ; and,  half  reconciled,  I turned  away  from  him,  exclaim- 
ing, “Well,  Lecholetehe,  you  are  an  incurable  rogue!” 

That  the  people  really  did  purloin  articles  from  their  own 
chief  I had  an  instance  when  at  the  Lake.  Entering  a trad- 
er’s hut  one  day,  I observed  some  beautiful  hippopotamus  teeth, 


452  DRESS EUROPEAN  CUSTOMS  RIDICULED. 

and  on  inquiring  how  he  had  become  possessed  of  them,  he 
replied,  “Why,  Lecholetebe  has  just  asked  the  same  ques- 
tion. They  were  stolen  from  the  chief  by  his  own  uncle 
this  very  morning,  who  sold  them  to  me  as  his  individual 
property  not  above  half  an  hour  ago.” 

The  attire  of  the  Bechuanas  is  scanty  enough.  Those, 
however,  who  have  had  much  intercourse  with  Europeans  be- 
gin to  adopt  their  mode  of  dress ; but  the  women,  contrary 
to  custom,  are  very  tenacious  of  their  peculiar  toilet,  appar- 
ently preferring  the  garb  of  mother  Eve.  The  appearance 
of  the  ladies  is  masculine,  and  far  from  prepossessing.  Their 
figures  are  usually  short,  stout,  and  clumsy,  which  is  still 
farther  increased  by  the  vast  numbers  of  beads  worn  by  the 
more  wealthy,  which  hang  in  cumbrous  coils  round  the  waist 
and  neck.  Their  wrists,  arms,  and  ankles,  moreover,  are 
encircled  by  rings  of  copper,  iron,  and  brass,  of  various  forms 
and  sizes.  They  delight  in  finery,  and  besides  the  decora- 
tion of  their  own  persons,  they  profusely  ornament  their  skin, 
shirts,  and  cloaks,  the  whole  being  bedaubed  with  masses 
of  fat  and  red  ochre.  “ Their  naturally  woolly  hair  is  twist- 
ed in  small  cords,  and  matted  with  the  above  substances 
into  apparently  metallic  pendules,  which,  being  of  equal 
length,  assume  the  appearance  of  a skull-cap  or  inverted  bowl 
of  steel.” 

Notwithstanding  the  Bechuanas  acknowledge  us  to  be  a 
superior  race  to  themselves,  they  have  no  hesitation  to  pro- 
nounce many  of  our  habits  and  customs  both  clumsy  and 
troublesome.  They  laugh  at  us  for  putting  our  legs  and 
arms  into  bags,  and  using  buttons  for  the  purpose  of  fasten- 
ing bandages  round  our  bodies,  instead  of  suspending  them  as 
ornaments  from  the  neck  or  hair  of  the  head.  Once  initiated 
in  the  use  of  these  things,  however,  they  are  but  too  glad  to 
benefit  by  them.  To  wash  the  body  instead  of  lubricating 
it  with  grease  and  red  ochre  seems  to  them  a disgusting  cus- 
tom, and  cleanliness  about  one’s  food,  house,  bedding,  &c., 
often  creates  their  mirth  and  ridicule. 


SNUFF-TAKING HANDKERCHIEFS. 


453 


The  Bechuanas  are  great  snuff-takers,  and  they  indulge  in 
the  luxury  to  excess.  Sharing  the  contents  of  your  snuff- 
box with  a stranger  is  almost  the  greatest  compliment  that 
can  be  paid  to  him.  Knowing  their  propensity  in  this  re- 
spect, I brought  with  me  a large  supply,  but,  on  my  arrival 
at  the  Lake,  was  astonished  to  find  that  they  scarcely  deign- 
ed to  look  at  it.  I soon  discovered  the  cause  of  their  singu- 
lar abstinence,  which  arose  simply  from  the  article  not  being 
sufficiently  pungent.  Unless  it  forces  tears  into  their  eyes, 
they  look  upon  snuff  as  worthless. 

The  way  in  which  the  Bechuanas  themselves  manufacture 
snuff  is  singular  enough.  A piece  of  tobacco  being  present- 
ed to  a man,  two  stones  are  forthwith  procured,  between 
which  the  weed  is  carefully  ground,  and,  when  of  sufficient 
fineness,  a quantity  of  wood-ash  is  added,  which,  to  their 
nostrils,  constitutes  the  very  perfection  of  snuff.  When  the 
amalgamation  of  the  ingredients  is  perfected,  every  one  pres- 
ent presses  eagerly  forward  to  have  a pinch.  Each  fills  the 
palm  of  his  hand  with  the  mixture,  and  scoops  it  into  the 
nose  with  a peculiarly  shaped  iron  or  ivory  spoon,  hung 
round  the  neck,  drawing  every  grain  leisurely  up  into  the 
nostrils  in  such  abundance  as  to  force  big  tears  into  the  eyes, 
thus  proving  the  extent  of  the  enjoyment.  “ Worse  than 
barbarian  would  that  man  be  esteemed  who  would  wanton- 
ly interrupt  a social  party  so  employed.”  Their  greasy  fin- 
gers constitute  their  handkerchiefs  on  such  occasions,  and 
their  faces,  after  one  of  these  66  snuff-floods,”  may  not  inaptly 
be  likened  to  a dewy  and  furrowed  field.  Their  snuff-boxes 
are  either  the  kernel  of  the  palm-fruit,  hollowed  out,  or  a 
diminutive  gourd,  and,  like  the  ladles,  are  suspended  round 
the  neck,  though  sometimes  they  are  secured  to  the  arm 
above  the  elbow. 

The  Bechuanas  smoke,  but  it  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  a 
fashionable  vice  among  them.  This  is,  at  least,  as  regards 
the  men,  for  the  women,  on  the  contrary,  are  inveterate 


454 


SMOKING OCCUPATIONS. 


smokers,  a habit  (as  already  mentioned  when  speaking  of  the 
Hill-Damaras)  often  productive  of  serious  bodily  disorders. 

The  occupations  of  the  men  consist  chiefly  in  going  to  war, 
hunting,  preparing  fur  and  skins  for  carosses,  milking  the 
cows,  &c.,  while  those  of  the  women  are  by  far  the  heaviest 
— namely,  the  erection  of  houses,  collecting  and  bringing 
fuel,  tilling,  sowing,  reaping,  thrashing  and  grinding  the 
corn,  not  to  mention  the  heavy  task  of  rearing  a family. 
While  cultivating  the  ground,  I have  often  seen  a woman 
with  one  or  two  babies  fastened  to  her  back  under  a scorch- 
ing sun.  Yet,  notwithstanding  all  these  exhausting  and  gall- 
ing duties,  they  would  be  amazed  were  a person  to  tell  them 
that  a state  of  “ single  blessedness”  would  be  preferable  to 
that  of  being  the  drudge  of  a haughty  and  indolent  husband. 

“While  standing  near  the  wife  of  one  of  the  grandees,” 
writes  Mr.  Moffat,  66  who,  with  some  female  companions,  was 
building  a house,  and  making  preparations  to  scramble,  by 
means  of  a branch,  on  to  the  roof,  I remarked  that  they 
ought  to  get  their  husbands  to  do  that  part  of  the  work. 
This  set  them  all  into  a roar  of  laughter.  Mahuto,  the 
queen,  and  several  of  the  men  drawing  near  to  ascertain  the 
cause  of  the  merriment,  the  wives  repeated  my — to  them — 
strange  and  ludicrous  proposal,  when  another  peal  of  mirth 
ensued.  Mahuto,  who  was  a sensible  and  shrewd  woman, 
stated  that  the  plan,  though  hopeless,  was  a good  one,  as  she 
often  thought  our  custom  was  much  better  than  theirs.  It 
was  reasonable  that  woman  should  attend  to  household  af- 
fairs and  the  lighter  parts  of  labor,  while  man,  wont  to  boast 
of  his  superior  strength,  should  employ  his  energy  in  more 
laborious  occupations;  adding,  she  wished  I would  give  their 
husbands  medicine  to  make  them  do  the  work.” 

The  Bechuanas  who  inhabit  the  shores  of  the  Ngami  are 
rich  in  sheep  and  goats,  but  possess  comparatively  few  horn- 
ed cattle.  Like  other  tribes  of  that  nation,  they  are  excess- 
ively fond  of  their  oxen,  but  more  particularly  prize  their 


AGRICULTURE COMMERCE HUNTING FISHING.  455 

cows,  which  scarcely  any  thing  can  induce  them  to  part 
with.  Indeed,  they  will  readily  give  ivory,  when  plentiful, 
in  exchange  for  cows. 

Gardening  and  agriculture  are  much  practiced  by  the  Be- 
chuanas.  These  occupations  are  conducted  in  nearly  a sim- 
ilar manner  as  that  described  among  the  Ovambo.  The  veg- 
etables and  the  grain  are  also  very  much  the  same. 

The  only  marketable  articles  as  yet  ascertained  at  the 
Lake  are  ostrich  feathers,  furs  and  skins  of  various  sorts, 
rhinoceros  horns,  and  ivory  (elephant  and  hippopotamus). 
The  staple  articles  of  exchange  are  beads,  and  more  especial- 
ly ammunition.  Clothing  is  as  yet  but  very  little  in  de- 
mand, the  people  not  being  sufficiently  advanced  in  civiliza- 
tion to  care  for  such  a luxury.  Even  beads  are  not  sought 
after  with  the  avidity  they  used  to  be,  such  quantities  hav- 
ing of  late  been  exported  to  the  Lake  country  that  (to  use 
a vulgar,  but  very  emphatic  expression  of  Lecholetebe)  “ the 
women,”  who  chiefly  wear  beads,  “ grunt  under  their  bur- 
dens like  pigs.”  No  visitor,  however,  should  be  entirely 
without  them.  All  large  beads  are  useless.  Small  beads  of 
the  following  colors,  pink,  dull  white,  light  green,  brick-col- 
ored, light  blue,  dark  blue,  and  yellow,  are  chiefly  in  demand. 

The  Bechuanas  of  the  Lake  are  fond  of  the  chase,  and  al- 
most daily  parties  are  sent  out  to  provide  for  the  chiefs  ta- 
ble. But,  though  possessed  of  a great  number  of  fire-arms, 
few  of  the  men  have  as  yet  attained  any  proficiency  in  their 
use.  By  far  the  greater  portion  of  animals  slain  are  obtain- 
ed by  means  of  pitfalls  dug  by  the  Bushmen  and  the  Bayeye 
along  the  banks  of  tfie  rivers.  As  many  as  thirty  to  forty 
pitfalls  may  be  seen  extending  in  one  continuous  line. 

Though  the  finny  tribe  is  pretty  numerous  in  the  Lake 
and  its  rivers,  none  of  the  Bechunas  take  the  trouble  to  catch 
them.  The  conquered  race,  the  Bayeye,  however,  are  very 
expert  and  industrious  fishermen. 


456 


DEPARTURE  FOR  LIBEBE. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Departure  for  Libebe. — The  Canoe. — The  Lake. — Reach  the  Teoge. 
— Adventure  with  a Leclie. — Luxurious  Vegetation. — Exuberance 
of  animal  Life. — Buffaloes. — The  Koodoo. — His  Haunts. — Pace. 
— Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — Disposition.  — Gregarious  Habits. — The 
Chase. 

As  Lecholetebe  proved  true  to  his  word  with  regard  to 
providing  me  with  men  and  boats,  I was  able,  after  only  a 
few  days’  stay  at  the  Lake,  to  proceed  on  my  exploring  tour 
to  the  north.  To  the  last  moment,  however,  the  chief  and 
his  people  endeavored  to  dissuade  me  from  the  attempt,  urg- 
ing, among  other  reasons,  the  enormous  windings  of  the 
Teoge,  which  would  prevent  me  from  reaching  my  destina- 
tion for  many  months,  as,  also,  the  great  number  of  hippo- 
potami, which  they  represented  as  the  most  savage  and  vora- 
cious of  beasts. 

I did  not  give  much  credit  to  the  story  of  these  men,  not 
having  the  least  faith  in  their  word.  I told  them  that,  with 
regard  to  the  sinuosities  of  the  stream,  I hoped  to  overcome 
that  difficulty  by  patience ; and  as  to  the  sea-cows,  if  they 
really  were  such  monsters  as  described,  I assured  them  I was 
quite  confident  that  my  black  followers  (pointing  to  the  boat- 
men), to  whom  they  were  accustomed,  would  be  first  swal- 
lowed, which  would  give  me  time  to  escape.  With  this  rude 
joke,  which  highly  pleased  my  untutored  audience,  I stepped 
into  the  canoe,  and  waving  my  hand,  in  token  of  leave,  to 
my  men  and  the  chief,  I launched  forth  on  the  Zouga. 

The  canoe  in  which  I embarked  (and  they  are  all  some- 
what similarly  constructed)  was  but  a miserable  craft.  It 
consisted  of  the  trunk  of  a tree,  about  twenty  feet  long,  point- 
ed at  both  ends,  and  hollowed  out  by  means  of  fire  and  a 


THE  CANOE A LOST  PARTY— A LUXURY. 


457 


small  hatchet.  The  natives  are  not  at  all  particular  as  to 
the  shape  of  the  canoe.  The  after-part  of  some  that  have 
come  under  my  notice  would  form  an  angle  of  near  forty- 
live  degrees  with  the  stem!  Nevertheless,  they  were  pro- 
pelled through  the  water  by  the  Bayeye  (my  boatmen  were 
of  that  nation)  with  considerable  speed  and  skill. 

The  u appointments”  of  the  canoe  consist  of  a paddle,  and 
a pole  ten  to  twelve  feet  in  length.  The  paddle-man  sits 
well  in  the  stern,  and  attends  mostly  to  the  steering ; while 
his  comrade,  posted  at  the  head  of  the  canoe,  sends  her  along, 
by  means  of  the  pole,  with  great  force  and  skill. 

The  natives,  however,  rarely  venture  any  distance  from 
the  shore  in  their  frail  skiffs.  It  was  said  that  they  had 
made  several  attempts  to  cross  the  widest  part  of  the  Lake, 
but  had  never  succeeded.  A party,  consisting  of  ten  or 
twelve  canoes,  hazarded  the  experiment  a few  years  previous 
to  its  discovery  by  Europeans,  but  were  not  again  heard  ofl 
from  which  it  was  concluded  that  they  had  been  overtaken 
by  a storm  and  perished.  After  about  an  hour’s  paddling, 
the  broad  expanse  of  the  Lake  lay  before  me,  glittering  in  all 
the  beauty  and  softness  produced  by  reflection  of  the  warm 
rays  of  a tropical  sun.  It  was,  indeed,  a luxury,  after  so 
much  traveling  in  the  burning  desert,  to  be  able  at  last  to 
float  upon 

“ The  glassy,  cool,  translucent  wave,” 
and  the  pleasure  was  increased  by  my  partiality  to  water, 
an  element  with  which  I became  familiar  in  the  early  stages 
of  boyhood,  and  on  which  I have  spent  some  of  my  happiest 
days. 

As  I felt  the  cool  breeze  fanning  my  cheeks,  new  life  seem- 
ed to  stir  within  me,  and  my  heart  beat  high  with  joyouh 
excitement. 

Our  party,  at  starting,  consisted  of  only  three  or  four  ca- 
noes ; but,  as  we  proceeded  on  the  voyage,  the  number  in- 
creased, and  ultimately  amounted  to  about  a dozen. 

IT 


458 


REACH  THE  TEOGE AN  ADVENTURE. 


In  consequence  of  the  frail  structure  of  our  craft,  and  the 
boatmen’s  tenacity  in  keeping  near  the  shore,  we  were  two 
days  in  getting  from  the  Zouga  to  the  western  extremity  of 
the  Lake,  although,  in  reality,  it  is  only  one  good  day’s  voy- 
age. It  was  not,  therefore,  until  the  third  day  that  we 
reached  the  chief  entrance  of  the  mouth  of  the  Teoge  (for 
here  the  river  spreads  out  into  several  branches),  where  there 
is  a bar.  The  water  was  so  low  on  it  that  although  the 
stream  was  fast  rising  at  the  time  (August),  we  were  forced 
to  draw  the  canoes  across  it  by  main  force.  It  is  true  we 
might  have  avoided  the  inconvenience  by  proceeding  a mile 
or  two  to  the  westward,  where  a channel  exists  that  is  said 
to  be  navigable  at  all  seasons. 

Our  voyage  across  the  Lake  was  attended  with  no  incident 
worth  recording,  but,  on  reaching  the  point  just  mentioned, 
I had  a little  adventure  with  a leche,  hundreds  of  which 
might  be  seen  grazing  and  sporting  among  the  shallows  and 
the  numerous  little  islets  of  the  Teoge. 

I had  gone  in  advance  of  my  party  in  the  hope  of  obtain- 
ing a shot ; but  though  I met  with  vast  numbers  of  animals, 
the  openness  of  the  ground  prevented  me  from  getting  with- 
in range.  Being  quite  tired  by  my  severe  but  fruitless  ex- 
ertions, I was  resting  on  the  rifle,  contemplating  the  novel 
and  striking  scene — the  Lake,  with  its  broad  blue  waters — its 
finely-wooded  shores — the  varied  and  vast  herds  of  animals — 
the  Teoge,  with  its  numerous  little  channels  and  sedgy  shores 
— when  I saw,  a little  ahead  of  me,  two  magnificent  stag 
leches  approaching  each  other,  evidently  with  no  friendly  in- 
tentions. I was  right  in  my  conjecture,  for  in  a few  sec- 
onds afterward  they  were  engaged  in  combat.  Taking  ad- 
vantage of  this  lucky  incident,  I approached,  unperceived, 
within  a dozen  paces,  when  I quickly  dropped  on  one  knee 
and  took  a deliberate  aim  at  the  shoulder  of  the  nearest; 
but,  just  as  I pulled  the  trigger,  he  received  a violent  thrust 
from  his  antagonist,  which  made  him  swerve  to  one  side,  and 


ADVENTURE  WITH  A LECHE. 


459 


the  consequence  was  that  the  ball,  instead  of  piercing  his 
heart,  merely  smashed  one  of  his  hind  legs.  The  animals, 
nevertheless,  were  so  intently  engaged,  that,  notwithstanding 
the  report  of  the  gun,  and  the  wounded  state  of  one  of  them 
(he  probably  attributed  this  to  his  adversary),  they  did  not 
observe  me.  Throwing  aside  the  rifle,  I drew  my  hunting- 
knife,  and  thus  armed,  rushed  upon  the  combatants.  Just, 
however,  as  I was  about  to  bury  the  fatal  weapon  in  the 
flank  of  one  of  the  animals,  they  both  suddenly  became  aware 
of  me,  and  fled  precipitately.  The  wounded  beast  at  once 
made  for  the  river,  which  was  hard  by,  and  though  it  was 
running  very  swiftly  at  this  point,  perhaps  not  less  than  four 
or  five  miles  an  hour,  he  plunged  into  the  water. 

Not  being  then  aware  of  the  aquatic  habits  of  this  species 
of  antelope,  I was  very  much  astonished,  and  for  a while 
thought  the  beast  would  surely  be  carried  away  by  the  vio- 
lence of  the  current  and  drowned.  But  I was  soon  unde- 
ceived ; for  he  struck  bravely  out  for  the  opposite  shore,  his 
course  being  marked  with  streaks  of  crimson.  On  gaining 
the  bank,  he  gave  one  glance  behind  him,  shook  his  bloody 
and  drizzling  coat,  and  made  off.  I was  determined,  how- 
ever, not  to  be  beaten ; and,  as  I had  nothing  on  but  a pair 
of  trowsers  and  a flannel  shirt,  I threw  myself,  as  I was,  into 
the  stream,  and  soon  succeeded  in  reaching  the  opposite  bank, 
when  I at  once  started  in  pursuit. 

In  this  way,  swimming  and  wading  alternately,  several 
rivulets,  swamps,  and  dikes  were  crossed  and  recrossed ; but, 
for  a long  time,  the  result  was  doubtful.  At  last,  however, 
the  poor  animal  slackened  his  pace,  staggered,  and  lay  down, 
but  again  proceeded,  though  apparently  with  pain  and  diffi- 
culty. Seeing  this,  I redoubled  my  exertions,  and  having- 
succeeded  in  turning  him  toward  the  Lake,  I drove  him  right 
into  the  water,  which  was  here  shallow,  and  where  he  sev- 
eral times  stuck  fast  in  the  mud.  I now  felt  sure  of  my 
quarry ; and,  having  approached  sufficiently  near,  I seized 


460 


ASPECT  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


him  by  the  wounded  leg,  and  severed  the  tendon  at  the  knee- 
joint.  The  struggle  between  us  now  became  severe.  On 
trying  to  lay  hold  of  his  horns,  which  were  most  formidable 
weapons,  with  the  intention  of  cutting  his  throat,  he  struck 
out  with  so  much  violence  as  to  upset  me,  and  I was  nearly 
smothered  with  mud  and  water.  But  the  poor  creature’s 
course  was  run.  His  loss  of  blood  and  crippled  state  soon 
enabled  me  to  put  an  end  to  his  miseries.  He  was  a noble 
old  stag — the  finest  antelope  of  the  species  that  I ever  shot, 
and  they  were  many ; he  well  rewarded  me  for  all  my  exer- 
tions. 

After  passing  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Teoge,  the  depth 
of  the  water  increased,  and  the  current  flowed  with  less  ve- 
locity— from  two  to  three  miles  per  hour,  I should  say.  For 
the  first  few  days’  journey  the  country  presented  a rather 
dreary  and  monotonous  appearance,  being  frequently  flooded 
for  many  miles,  thus  converting  the  land  on  both  sides  into 
extensive  reedy  marshes,  only  occasionally  relieved  by  a 
pleasant  group  of  the  date  and  the  fan-palm.  The  banks 
were  in  many  places  so  low  that,  when  bivouacking  on  shore, 
we  often  slept  in  the  water.  Even  where  the  banks  rose  a 
few  feet  above  the  surface,  they  were  entirely  undermined  by 
the  stream ; and  if  a stick  was  thrust  through,  water  imme- 
diately appeared  in  the  hole.  Fuel  was  exceedingly  scarce, 
and  could  only  be  purchased  from  the  natives  (thinly  scatter- 
ed along  its  banks),  who  not  unfrequently  brought  it  from  a 
very  great  distance. 

On  the  fourth  day  the  landscape  assumed  a more  pleas- 
ing aspect  the  banks  of  the  river  became  higher,  and  were 
richly  covered  with  a rank  vegetation.  There  was  the  fan- 
palm,  the  date,  the  black-stemmed  mimosa,  the  wild  and 
wide-spreading  sycamore,  the  elegant  and  dark-foliaged  mo- 
shoma,  and  a variety  of  other  beautiful,  often  to  me  new, 
trees,  many  yielding  an  abundance  of  palatable  and  nourish- 
ing fruit.  Timbo,  who  accompanied  me,  recognized  no  less 


VEGETATION ANIMAL  LIFE. 


461 


ASCENDING  THE  TEOGE- 


than  six  or  seven  kinds  of  fruit-trees  indigenous  to  the  east 
coast  of  Africa  and  the  adjacent  countries.  The  arboreal 
scenery,  indeed,  in  some  places  exceeded  in  beauty  any  thing 
that  I had  ever  seen.  I could  have  spent  days  under  the 
shade  of  some  of  these  ornamental  trees,  resounding  at  times 
with  the  wild  notes  of  birds,  while  in  the  distance  might  be 
seen  herds  of  the  finest  of  the  antelope  tribe.  Yet  common 
prudence  forbids  the  traveler  to  tarry.  When  the  stream, 
after  the  annual  overflow,  begins  to  subside,  noxious  effluvia 
are  emitted,  carrying  death  along  with  them.  Such  is  the 
climate  of  Africa ! 

Animal  life  was  almost  on  a par  with  the  exuberant 
vegetation.  Rhinoceroses,  hippopotami,  buffaloes,  sassabys, 
hartebeests,  pallahs,  reed-bucks,  leches,  &c.,  were  constantly 
seen,  and  every  day  some  game  animal  or  other  wras  shot. 
Thus  I was  able  to  support  and  satisfy  our  large  and  hungry 
party,  now  consisting  of  fifty  or  sixty  individuals. 

One  fine  afternoon  we  came  to  a place  where  the  tracks 


462 


A FAILURE BUFFALOES  FOUND. 


of  buffaloes  were  unusually  numerous  ; and,  having  hitherto 
seen  little  of  that  animal,  I determined  to  halt  for  a day  or 
two,  in  the  hope  not  only  of  becoming  better  acquainted  with 
it,  but  of  having  good  sport.  The  surrounding  scenery,  be- 
sides, was  attractive,  which  was  an  additional  inducement  to 
devote  a short  time  to  rest  and  amusement. 

The  first  night  that  I passed  at  a “ skarm”  was  a failure 
in  respect  of  game,  owing  probably  to  my  being  to  windward 
of  the  point  whence  the  buffaloes  were  likely  to  come,  who, 
getting  scent  of  me  from  a distance,  did  not  venture  to  ap- 
proach my  place  of  concealment.  A small  herd  of  these  an- 
imals, however,  came  within  range  of  Timbo,  whom  I had 
also  placed  in  ambush  some  little  way  from  me;  but,  as 
usual,  he  missed,  and  they  all  went  off  unhurt. 

Returning  to  the  camp  the  following  morning,  the  natives, 
on  hearing  of  our  ill  luck,  looked  so  hungry  and  unhappy 
withal,  that,  although  I stood  greatly  in  need  of  rest  and  re- 
freshment, I again  shouldered  my  rifle  and  started  off  in 
search  of  game. 

On  this  occasion  I was  accompanied  by  about  a score  of 
natives.  A couple  of  pallahs  and  a koodoo  were  soon  bagged, 
but  a noble  sassaby  that  we  met  with  got  off  unscathed. 

Afterward  we  searched  long  without  finding  any  thing, 
but  the  numerous  tracks  of  buffaloes  testified  that  this  part 
of  the  country  was  a favorite  haunt  of  those  animals.  At 
last  we  came  to  the  skirts  of  a dense  thicket ; and,  peering 
among  the  bushes,  I presently  espied  several  dark  objects 
on  the  ground,  which  at  once  struck  me  must  be  buffaloes. 
Placing  my  finger  on  my  lips  as  a sign  that  silence  was  re- 
quired, and  pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  dark  objects,  I 
whispered  the  word  “onja,”  meaning  buffalo.  Not  the  pres- 
ence of  his  satanic  majesty  could  have  caused  greater  con- 
sternation among  my  followers ; for  no  sooner  was  the  magic 
word  uttered,  than  one  and  all  of  them  wheeled  about,  and 
made  a headlong  retreat.  One  of  the  men  was  carrying  a 


A PANIC IN  DOUBT  — A BUFFALO  KILLED. 


463 


heavy  rifle  of  mine,  and  wishing  to  get  possession  of  it,  I fol- 
lowed in  their  footsteps.  But  this  made  bad  worse  ; for,  see- 
ing me  also  running,  and  thinking  the  enemy  was  at  their 
heels,  they  redoubled  their  pace,  nor  did  they  stop  until  at 
a most  respectful  distance  from  the  thicket.  It  was  really 
absurd  to  see  us  thus  endeavoring  to  outrun  each  other. 

Having  at  length  overtaken  the  men  and  secured  my 
rifle,  I returned  to  the  spot  whence  I had  first  observed  the 
suspicious  objects ; but,  though  I approached  to  within  a 
dozen  paces  of  them,  I was  unable,  from  the  denseness  of 
the  cover,  to  make  out  their  identity. 

A tree  was  hard  by;  and,  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a 
better  view,  I at  once  ascended  it.  But  in  this  matter  I was 
disappointed,  for  even  when  thus  elevated  I could  see  no 
better  than  from  the  ground.  As  the  only  mode  left  me  of 
satisfying  my  doubts,  I now  fired  into  the  midst  of  the  dark 
objects  in  question ; but  not  a living  thing  stirred.  For  a 
moment  I fancied  I must  have  been  in  error,  and  that  what 
I had  taken  for  animals  were  neither  more  nor  less  than 
huge  stones.  However,  to  set  the  point  at  rest,  after  reload- 
ing, I sent  a second  ball  in  the  same  direction  as  the  first, 
and  this  time  to  some  purpose,  for  at  the  report  of  the  gun 
up  sprung  to  their  feet  four  magnificent  male  buffaloes  ; and 
after  tossing  their  heads  proudly,  and  sniffing  the  air  for  a 
moment,  they  broke  cover  in  good  style,  and,  to  all  appear- 
ance, unhurt.  I never  saw  them  again. 

Following  leisurely  on  their  tracks  in  order  to  ascertain 
whether  any  of  the  beasts  were  hurt,  a herd  of  buffaloes — at 
least  two  hundred  in  number — suddenly  rushed  past  us  with 
the  violence  of  a tornado,  breaking  down  and  crashing  every 
thing  that  opposed  their  headlong  career,  and  raising  so 
great  a cloud  of  dust  as  nearly  to  conceal  their  dark  forms 
from  view.  I fired  into  the  midst  of  them  at  random,  and 
had  the  satisfaction  to  see  a cow  drop  to  the  shot. 

The  report  of  the  rifle  brought  the  whole  herd  almost  im- 


464  BUFFALOES  PROOF  AGAINST  BULLETS. 

mediately  to  a stand,  and,  facing  round,  they  confronted  us 
in  one  dark  mass.  Taking  advantage  of  a tree  at  some  little 
distance  ahead,  I stalked  to  within  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  paces  of  this  formidable  phalanx.  Resting  the  gun  on 
a branch,  I took  a steady  aim  at  the  leading  bull ; but, 
though  I very  distinctly  heard  the  bullet  strike  him,  he  did 
not  flinch  in  the  slightest  degree. 

One  of  the  natives  having  by  this  time  mustered  courage 
to  steal  up  to  me  with  my  rifle,  I fired  a second  time,  though 
at  another  of  the  herd,  but  with  no  better  result.  Six  sev- 
eral times,  at  the  least,  did  I repeat  the  dose,  and  though  on 
each  occasion  the  ball  told  loudly  on  the  animaFs  body, 
neither  it  nor  any  one  of  the  herd  (strange  as  it  may  appear) 
budged  an  inch ! They  seemed  to  be  chained  to  the  spot  by 
some  invisible  power,  eyeing  me  all  the  while  with  an  omin- 
ous and  sinister  look.  Their  strange  and  unaccountable  bear- 
ing puzzled  me  beyond  measure.  I expected  every  instant 
to  see  them  charge  down  upon  me.  But,  even  had  this  hap- 
pened— though  I am  free  to  confess  I felt  any  thing  but  com- 
fortable— my  personal  safety  would  not,  perhaps,  have  been 
much  endangered,  as  by  ascending  the  tree  against  which  I 
was  leaning  I should  have  been  out  of  harm’s  way.  How- 
ever, I was  not  driven  to  this  extremity ; for,  while  about  to 
ram  down  another  ball,  the  whole  herd  suddenly  wheeled 
about,  and,  with  a peculiar  shrieking  noise,  tails  switching  to 
and  fro  over  their  backs,  and  heads  lowered  almost  to  the 
ground,  they  made  off  at  a furious  pace. 

On  proceeding  to  the  spot  where  the  buffaloes  had  been 
standing,  I observed  large  patches  of  blood  on  the  ground, 
and  felt  convinced  that  both  the  animals  at  which  I had  fired 
must  have  been  severely,  if  not  mortally  wounded.  We  fol- 
lowed their  tracks  for  a considerable  distance,  but  saw  no 
more  of  them.  From  information  received  from  the  Bush- 
men at  a subsequent  period,  however,  there  is  little  doubt  that 
both  perished; 


ANOTHER  BUFFALO  KILLED KOODOOS. 


465 


The  night  closing  in,  I determined  on  once  more  lying  in 
ambush.  I waited  long  in  vain  ; but  at  last  I observed  a sol- 
itary buffalo — an  immense  bull — slowly  and  cautiously  ap- 
proaching my  hiding-place,  stopping  every  now  and  then  to 
listen.  When  so  near  the  “ skarm”  as  almost  to  touch  it,  I 
pulled  the  trigger,  but,  to  my  great  annoyance,  the  gun  snap- 
ped. On  hearing  the  click,  the  animal  wheeled  about  and 
hurriedly  retreated ; but,  after  proceeding  about  forty  paces, 
he  suddenly  halted,  and,  turning  partially  round,  exposed  his 
broadside.  Having,  in  the  interim,  put  on  another  cap,  I took 
advantage  of  his  favorable  position,  and  again  pulled  the  trig- 
ger. This  time  I succeeded  in  placing  a bullet  well  in  the 
beast’s  shoulder.  The  instant  he  received  the  shot  he  leaped 
high  into  the  air,  and  then  plunged  violently  forward.  Im- 
mediately afterward  I heard  a deep  moaning  in  the  direction 
he  had  taken — an  unmistakable  sign  that  he  was  mortally 
hurt.  Nevertheless,  what  with  the  severe  lesson  I had  re- 
cently received  from  the  black  rhinoceros,  and  the  well-known 
savage  nature  of  a wounded  buffalo,  I did  not  think  it  pru- 
dent to  follow  him.  The  next  morning,  however,  search  was 
made,  when  he  was  found  dead  within  less  than  a hundred 
yards  of  my  “ skarm,”  the  ball  having  pierced  his  heart. 

Koodoos  were  also  occasionally  seen  and  killed.  Of  all 
that  varied  and  beauteous  form  of  animal  life  to  be  found  in 
the  boundless  woods  and  plains  of  tropical  South  Africa,  the 
koodoo  is  unquestionably  the  most  distinguished  for  elegance 
and  gracefulness,  united  with  strength.  The  height  of  the 
male  at  the  shoulder  is  about  four  feet.  The  general  color 
of  his  body  is  a “ rufous  gray,”  marked  with  several  white  bars 
over  the  back  and  croup.  The  male  carries  his  exquisitely 
formed  head,  ornamented  wTith  ponderous  spiral  horns  of  about 
three  feet  or  more  in  length,  very  erect,  which  gives  him  an 
air  of  nobility  and  independence.  The  koodoo,  in  short,  is  a 
perfect  picture ; and  “ when  standing  broadside  on,  is  decided- 
ly one  of  the  grandest-looking  antelopes  in  the  world.” 

U 2 


466 


GAIT FOOD BREEDING HIDE. 


The  koodoo  is  not  uncommon  throughout  the  more  wooded 
districts  of  Damara-land ; but,  from  its  leading  a very  seclu- 
ded life,  it  is  not  so  often  seen  as  others  of  the  antelope  tribe. 
His  favorite  haunts  are  the  stony  slopes  of  hills,  overgrown 
with  brushwood.  In  localities  not  much  frequented  by  man, 
however,  and  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  he  may  be  seen  in 
more  open  ground,  on  the  outskirts  of  woods,  borders  of  vleys, 
and  banks  of  rivers. 

His  gait  is  very  graceful ; but  his  pace,  which  consists  of 
a moderately  fast  gallop,  is  less  elegant.  When  pursued,  he 
clears  with  considerable  agility  bushes,  stones,  and  other 
minor  obstructions  that  may  oppose  his  course,  his  leaps  be- 
ing often  of  very  considerable  extent. 

His  food  consists  chiefly  of  leaves,  buds,  and  the  young 
shoots  of  trees  and  bushes.  He  seems  capable  of  going  a long 
time  without  water,  and  only  occasionally  frequents  the  pool. 

The  koodoo  produces  only  one  young  at  a time.  His 
flesh,  when  in  good  condition,  is  excellent,  and  the  soup,  or 
bouillon , made  from  it  is  delicious.  The  marrow  extracted 
from  the  bones  is  highly  prized  by  the  natives,  who  deem  it 
better  than  that  obtained  from  any  other  animal.  They  con- 
sequently devour  it  greedily,  and  without  any  kind  of  prepa- 
ration. 

The  hide  of  the  koodoo  is  greatly  valued,  as  well  by  the 
hunter  as  the  colonist.  It  is  rather  thin,  but  exceedingly 
tough  and  pliable,  and  will  stand  more  wear  and  tear  than 
any  other  hide  of  the  same  substance.  It  is  chiefly  used  for 
shoes,  lashes  of  whips,  thongs,  straps,  and  harness  in  general. 
A koodoo  hide,  well  prepared  according  to  the  custom  of  the 
country,  is  worth  from  twenty  to  thirty  shillings ; and,  being 
much  in  request  among  the  farmers,  is  no  despicable  article 
of  commerce  for  home  consumption. 

The  koodoo  is  naturally  of  a shy  and  timid  nature ; but 
the  male,  when  hotly  pressed  and  wounded,  will  not  unfre- 
quently  face  about,  and  even  attack  his  pursuer. 


HABITS MODES  OF  HUNTING. 


467 


This  species  of  antelope  is  gregarious,  though  seldom  seen 
in  large  herds,  five  or  six  being  the  usual  number.  The 
males  are  frequently  met  with  singly. 

As  already  seen,  when  taken  young,  this  animal  is  easily 
domesticated,  and  becomes  very  tame.  Notwithstanding,  to 
the  best  of  my  belief,  no  specimen  has  ever  been  brought  to 
this  country  alive. 

From  the  koodoo’s  secluded  habits,  fewer  of  these  animals 
are  killed — as  regards  Damara-land,  at  least — than  any  oth- 
er species  of  antelope  indigenous  to  Southern  Africa.  He  is 
sometimes  hunted  on  horseback,  and  if  a hunter  has  the  good 
fortune  to  meet  with  one  in  a favorable  and  open  locality, 
there  is  no  great  difficulty  in  running  it  down ; but  as  the 
animal  holds,  for  the  most  part,  to  hilly  and  stony  ground, 
and  such  as  is  wooded  withal,  the  chase,  even  if  successful, 
usually  proves  an  arduous  one. 

The  preferable  course  is  to  hunt  it  on  foot.  Stalking  the 
koodoo  was  a favorite  pursuit  of  mine,  and  many  a noble 
stag  have  I thus  laid  low.  But,  on  account  of  the  wooded 
nature  of  the  country  it  inhabits,  the  difficulty  of  approach- 
ing unperceived  within  gunshot  is  very  considerable,  and  it 
is  greatly  increased  by  Nature,  who,  with  her  usual  wonder- 
ful provision,  has  provided  the  koodoo  with  the  most  exqui- 
site sense  of  hearing.  Its  large,  prominent  ears  apparently 
act  as  a kind  of  focus,  against  which  any  unusual  noise  or 
sound  is  quickly  arrested  in  its  progress. 

The  Bushmen  have  a way  of  their  own  of  hunting  the 
koodoo,  viz.,  by  running  it  down,  not  by  speed  of  foot,  but  by 
gradually  exhausting  it.  When  a hunt  of  this  kind  is  de- 
cided on,  a number  of  these  people  assemble,  armed  with  as- 
segais, &c.  Having  started  the  animal,  one  of  the  party 
takes  up  its  “ spoor”  at  a quick  pace,  the  rest  following  more 
leisurely.  On  feeling  fatigued,  the  leading  man  drops  behind 
his  comrades,  and  the  next  in  order  takes  up  the  pursuit,  and 
so  on,  until  they  secure  the  prize.  Sometimes  this  is  effected 


468 


THE  HUNT— THE  TSETSE. 


in  the  course  of  a few  hours;  but  it  happens,  also,  that  the 
chase  lasts  for  a whole  day,  or  even  longer.  All  depends  on 
the  ground.  If  stony  or  rocky,  the  men  have  an  immense 
advantage  over  the  animal,  who,  under  such  circumstances, 
soon  becomes  foot-sore,  lies  down  repeatedly,  and,  after  a 
while,  is  found  unable  to  rise,  when  he  is  quickly  dispatched. 
The  women. and  children  carry  water  on  these  occasions  for 
the  hunters,  so  that,  should  the  animal  prove  very  enduring, 
his  pursuers  may  not  be  necessitated  to  give  up  the  chase  for 
want  of  that  indispensable  necessary. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Tsetse  Fly. — Confined  to  particular  Spots. — Its  Size.— Its  Destructive- 
ness. — Fatal  to  Domestic  Animals.  — Symptoms  in  the  Ox  when 
bitten  by  the  Tsetse. 

During  my  hunting  excursions  along  the  Teoge,  I en- 
countered, for  the  first  time,  that  most  extraordinary  of  in- 
sects, the  tsetse  ( glossina  morsitans , Westw.  ).*  Among  the  sev- 
eral scourges  to  which 
the  traveler  is  subject- 
ed in  the  South  Afri- 
can wilderness,  one  of 
the  greatest  is  this  in- 
sect ; not,  it  is  true,  as 
to  the  wayfarer’s  own 
person,  for  he  himself 
escapes  very  nearly  un- 
scathed, but  as  regards 
the  horses  and  cattle. 
The  tsetse  is  found 
chiefly  in  the  bush  or  among  the  reeds,  but  rarely  in  the 

* For  a scientific  description  of  this  insect,  see  “ Proceedings  of  the 
Zoological  Society,”  No.  ccxvii. 


TSETSE  FLY. 


LOCALITY SIZE DESTRUCTIVENESS. 


469 


open  country.  It  is  confined  to  particular  spots,  and  is  nev- 
er known  to  shift  its  haunts.  Thus  cattle  may  be  seen  graz- 
ing securely  on  one  side  of  a river,  while  the  opposite  bank 
swarms  with  the  insect.  Should  the  natives,  who  are  well 
acquainted  with  localities  frequented  by  the  fly,  have  occa- 
sion to  change  their  cattle-posts,  and  are  obliged  to  pass 
through  tracts  of  country  where  it  exists,  they  choose,  I am 
told,  a moonlight  winter’s  night,  as,  during  the  hours  of  rest 
in  the  cold  season,  it  does  not  bite. 

In  size  the  tsetse  is  somewhat  less  than  the  common  blue 
fly  that  settles  on  meat,  but  its  wings  are  longer.  Yet,  though 
so  small  and  insignificant  in  appearance,  its  bite  carries  with 
it  a poison  equal  to  that  of  the  most  deadly  reptile.  Many 
is  the  traveler  who,  from  his  draft-oxen  and  horses  having 
been  destroyed  by  this  pestiferous  insect,  has  not  only  had 
the  object  of  his  journey  completely  marred,  but  his  personal 
safety  endangered  by  the  loss  of  his  means  of  conveyance. 

Very  lately,  indeed,  a party  of  Griquas,  about  twenty  in 
number,  who  were  elephant-hunting  to  the  northwest  of  the 
Ngami,  and  who  were  provided  with  three  wagons  and  a 
large  number  of  trek,  or  draft-oxen,  lost,  prior  to  their  re- 
turn to  the  Lake,  all  their  cattle  by  the  bite  of  the  tsetse. 
Some  horses,  brought  with  them  to  further  their  sport,  shared 
a similar  fate. 

The  very  same  year  that  this  disaster  happened  to  the 
Griquas,  a party  of  Englishmen,  among  whom  was  my  friend 
Mr.  Frederick  Green,  attempted  to  reach  Libebe ; but  they 
had  only  proceeded  seven  or  eight  days’  journey  to  the  north 
of  the  Ngami  when  both  horses  and  cattle  were  bitten  by  the 
fly  in  question,  and  the  party  were,  in  consequence,  compelled 
to  make  a hasty  retreat.  One  of  the  number,  I am  told,  was 
thus  deprived  of  as  many  as  thirty-six  horses,  excellent  hunt- 
ers, and  all  sustained  heavy  losses  in  cattle. 

There  are  large  tribes  which  can  not  keep  either  cattle  or 
sheep  because  the  tsetse  abounds  in  their  country.  But  it  is 


470 


A PROBLEM SYMPTOMS. 


only  fatal  to  domestic  animals,  as  wild  animals  feed  undis- 
turbed #in  parts  infested  by  the  insect.  Yet  many  of  them, 
such  as  oxen  and  buffaloes,  horses  and  zebras,  dogs  and  jack- 
als, &c.,  possess  somewhat  the  same  nature.  Moreover,  it 
bites  man,  and  no  danger  follows.  The  sensation  experi- 
enced has  not  inaptly  been  likened  to  the  sting  of  a flea.* 
The  problem  to  be  solved  is,  what  quality  exists  in  domesti- 
cation which  renders  domestic  animals  obnoxious  to  this  poi- 
son? “Is  man  not  as  much  a domestic  animal  as  a dog? 
Is  it  the  tsetse  at  all  which  kills  the  animal  ?” 

Captain  Vardon,  of  the  Indian  army,  one  of  the  earlier  pi- 
oneers of  the  more  interior  parts  of  Southern  Africa,  was 
among  the  first  to  decide  the  point ; for  he  rode  his  horse  up 
a hill  infested  by  tsetse,  and  in  twenty  days  his  doubts  were 
removed  by  the  death  of  his  horse. 

According  to  the  statement  of  the  celebrated  explorers, 
Messrs.  Oswell  and  Livingstone,  who  were  severe  sufferers  by 
the  tsetse,  the  following  symptoms  are  observed  in  the  ox 
when  bitten : the  eye  runs,  the  glands  under  the  throat  swell, 
the  coat  loses  its  gloss,  there  is  a peculiar  flaccidity  of  the 
muscles  generally,  and  emaciation  commences,  which  pro- 
ceeds unchecked  until — perhaps  months  after  the  bite — purg- 
ing supervenes,  and  the  animal  perishes  of  exhaustion.  Some 
die  soon  after  the  bite  is  inflicted,  especially  if  they  are  in 
good  condition,  or  should  rain  fall ; but,  in  general,  the  pro- 
cess of  emaciation  goes  on  for  many  weeks.  In  some  cases 
the  animals  become  blind  before  they  die.f 

* When  allowed  to  settle  on  the  hand  of  man,  all  it  is  observed  to 
do  is  to  insert  its  proboscis  a little  farther  than  seems  necessary  to 
draw  blood.  It  then  partially  withdraws  the  dart,  which  assumes  a 
crimson  hue.  The  mandibles  now  appear  to  be  agitated ; the  shrunk- 
en body  swells ; and,  in  a few  seconds,  the  insect  becomes  quite  full, 
and  quietly  abandons  its  prey. 

f “ One  of  my  steeds,”  says  Gordon  Cumming,  “died  of  the  tsetse. 
The  head  and  body  of  the  poor  animal  swelled  up  in  a most  distress- 
ing manner  before  he  died ; his  eyes  were  so  swollen  that  he  could 


SYMPTOMS  IN  THE  OX  WHEN  BITTEN.  471 

“ From  what  I have  seen  of  the  tsetse,”  writes  Mr.  Oswell 
to  me,  66 1 believe  that  three  or  four  flies  are  sufficient  to  kill 
a full-grown  ox.  We  examined  about  twenty  of  ours  that 
were  bitten  and  died,  and  the  appearances  were  similar  in  all. 
On  raising  the  skin,  we  perceived  a glairy  appearance  of  the 
muscles  and  flesh,  which  were  much  wasted.  The  stomach 
and  intestines  were  healthy ; heart,  lungs,  and  liver,  some- 
times all,  but  invariably  one  or  the  other,  much  diseased. 
The  heart,  in  particular,  attracted  our  attention.  It  was  no 
longer  a firm  and  muscular  organ,  but  collapsed  readily  on 
compression,  and  had  the  appearance  of  flesh  that  had  been 
steeped  in  water.  The  blood  of  the  whole  carcass  was  greatly 
diminished  in  quantity.  Not  more  than  twenty  pints  (a 
small  pailful)  were  obtained  from  the  largest  ox,  and  this 
thick  and  albuminous ; the  hands,  when  plunged  into  it,  came 
out  free  of  stain.  The  poison  would  seem  to  grow  in  the 
blood,  and,  through  the  blood,  affect  the  vital  organs. 

“ A curious  feature  in  the  case  is,  that  dogs,  though 
reared  on  milk,  die  if  bitten,*  while  calves  and  other  young 
sucking  animals  are  safe  as  long  as  they  suck . Man,  and  all 
the  wild  animals,  escape  with  impunity.  Can  the  poison  be 
alkaline,  and  neutralized  by  the  acid  V9 


CHAPTER  XXXYIII. 

The  Crocodile. — An  Englishman  killed  by  one  of  these  Monsters. — 
The  Omoroanga  Yavarra  River. — Hardships. — Beautiful  Scenery. 
— Leeholetebe’s  Treachery. — The  Reed-ferry. 

As  we  journeyed  up  the  Teoge,  we  frequently  observed 
crocodiles  basking  in  the  sun  in  the  more  secluded  parts  of 
the  river.  One  day,  while  trying  to  trace  a wounded  ante- 

not  see ; and,  in  darkness,  he  neighed  for  his  comrades  who  stood 
feeding  beside  him.” 

* A dog  reared  on  the  meat  of  game  may  be  hunted  in  tsetse  dis- 
tricts in  safety ! 


472  AN  ENGLISHMAN  KILLED  BY  A CROCODILE. 

lope,  I nearly  trod  on  one  of  these  monsters  who  was  fast 
asleep.  My  foot  was  already  descending  on  his  tail  before  1 
was  aware  of  him.  Without  daring  to  move,  I gently  raised 
the  rifle  to  my  shoulder,  and,  with  a well-directed  ball  behind 
the  ear,  killed  him  on  the  spot. 

One  does  not  often  hear  of  crocodiles  in  these  parts  seizing 
on  human  beings  when  immersed  in  water,  which  would  seem 
to  prove  that  these  animals  are  u man-eaters”  from  the  com- 
pulsion of  hunger  rather  than  from  habit.  Indeed,  I have 
been  assured  by  several  persons  that  there  is  little  danger  of 
being  attacked,  provided  one  makes  a great  noise  previously 
to  entering  the  water.  Accidents,  however,  do  occur.  Only 
a few  years  ago  an  English  gentleman,  Mr.  R , was  car- 

ried off  by  one  of  these  horrid  creatures.  He  and  his  com- 
panion, Mr.  M , who  told  me  the  sad  story,  had  en- 

camped on  the  banks  of  the  Zouga,  and,  as  a number  of 
water-fowl  were  seen  disporting  themselves  on  the  stream,  Mr. 

R proceeded  there  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  a shot.  He 

soon  succeeded  in  killing  several,  and  among  the  rest  a Mus- 
covy duck  ; but  he  was  unable  to  secure  it  for  want  of  a boat. 

While  looking  about  for  a canoe,  he  observed  a fine  ante- 
lope approaching ; and,  running  quickly  toward  the  wagon, 
which  was  hard  by,  he  called  out  to  his  men  to  bring  him  a 
rifle.  On  his  return  to  the  river,  he  found  that  the  antelope 
had  escaped.  He  then  proceeded  toward  the  spot  whence 
he  had  shot  at  the  duck,  which  was  still  floating  on  the  sur- 
face. His  companion  having  by  this  time  joined  him,  he  ex- 
pressed his  determination  to  possess  the  bird  at  any  cost,  and 
that  he  would  swim  after  it.  He  confessed,  however,  that 
he  felt  some  doubt  about  the  safety  of  such  a proceeding, 
adding  that  he  had  once  been  witness  to  the  death  of  a man 
who  was  seized  and  destroyed  by  a shark  alongside  his  own 
boat.  Notwithstanding  this  (his  own)  opinion  of  the  risk  he 
was  about  to  incur,  and  the  warning  of  his  friend,  he  un- 
dressed and  plunged  into  the  stream.  Having  swum  a little 


THE  OMOROANGA  VAVARRA HARDSHIPS.  473 

distance,  he  was  observed  to  throw  himself  on  his  back,  as 
if  startled  at  some  object  beneath  him ; but  in  another  mo- 
ment he  was  pursuing  his  course.  When,  however,  he  was 
about  to  lay  his  hands  on  the  bird,  his  body  was  violently  con- 
vulsed, and,  throwing  his  arms  on  high,  he  uttered  a most 
piercing  shriek,  after  which  he  was  seen  to  be  gradually  drawn 
under  the  surface,  never  to  reappear ! 

On  the  ninth  day  after  we  had  entered  the  Teoge  we  left 
the  principal  channel  and  passed  into  the  Omoroanga  (little 
river)  Yavarra.  This  rivulet  is  merely  one  of  the  small 
branches  of  the  main  stream  (formed  by  its  overflowing  its 
banks)  so  frequently  met  with,  and  which  usually  rejoin  it 
after  a day  or  two.  The  Omoroanga  Yavarra  is  only  navi- 
gable with  canoes  when  the  Teoge  is  at  its  greatest  height, 
and  even  then  the  navigation  is  of  the  most  intricate  descrip- 
tion. The  boatmen,  many  of  whom  were  born  and  bred  in 
the  neighborhood,  constantly  lose  their  way.  We  passed 
two  nights  on  the  Omoroanga,  during  which  time  we  were 
exposed  to  much  inconvenience  and  hardship. 

Lecholetebe  had  placed  two  canoes  at  my  disposal,  but  the 
rascally  boatmen  had  by  this  time  so  filled  them  with  their 
own  things  that  no  place  was  left  for  me.  The  consequence 
was,  as  the  country  was  one  succession  of  swamps,  lakes, 
rivulets,  and  quagmires,  I found  myself  early  and  late  im- 
mersed in  water,  sometimes  swimming,  at  others  wading  up 
to  my  neck.  Indeed,  from  the  time  that  I left  my  camp  on 
the  Zouga  to  my  return  to  it,  a period  of  about  a month,  I 
scarcely  knew  what  it  was  to  have  a dry  thread  about  me. 
The  only  time  I could  partially  dry  my  clothes  was  at  night 
along  the  bivouac-fire ; but  then  I had  to  lie  down  wet.  It 
would  have  been  ruinous  to  any  constitution  not  previously 
inured  to  hardships  of  all  kinds. 

But  I was  compensated  for  what  I lost  in  comfort  by  the 
beauty  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  Wherever  the  soil  was 
raised  a few  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  it  was 
covered  by  a rich  and  majestic  vegetation. 


474  BAYEYE  VILLAGE DECEIVED  BY  LECHOLETEBE. 

At  length,  and  after  about  twelve  days’  voyaging,  we 
reached  a large  village  where  the  great  chief  of  the  Bay  eye 
resided.  This  was  a charming  spot,  and  one  to  which  the 
most  skillful  artist  would  have  had  some  difficulty  in  doing 
justice.  Located  on  a small  island  about  two  hundred  feet 
long  by  one  hundred  in  breadth,  the  village  consisted  of 
somewhat  more  than  a hundred  houses,  standing  in  the  midst 
of  a beautiful  group  of  elegant  fan-palms,  and  some  gigantic 
wild  fruit-trees.  At  the  foot  of  the  werft,  in  a semicircle, 
the  clear,  transparent  Teoge  wound  its  meandering  course. 
On  every  side,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  lay  stretched  a 
sea  of  fresh  water,  in  many  places  concealed  from  sight  by  a 
covering  of  reeds  and  rushes  of  every  shade  and  hue,  while 
numerous  islands,  spread  over  its  surface,  and  adorned  with 
rich  vegetation,  gave  to  the  whole  an  indescribably  beautiful 
appearance.  This  was  particularly  the  case  at  sunrise  and 
sunset,  when  the  luxuriant  vegetation  received  additional 
charms  by  the  brilliant  but  softened  rays  of  a tropical  sun. 

I had  been  given  to  understand  by  Lecholetebe  that  the 
chief  at  whose  werft  I had  now  arrived  was  to  have  pro- 
vided me  with  other  men  and  other  boats.  To  save  time,  as 
also  in  accordance  with  the  men’s  own  wishes,  I sent  my 
principal  guide  and  others  to  inform  the  chieftain  of  my  com- 
ing, requesting  him  to  get  every  thing  ready ; but,  on  reach- 
ing the  place  the  following  day,  I found,  to  my  utter  aston- 
ishment, that  he,  with  all  his  people,  had  set  out  that  very 
morning  to  hunt  the  sea-cow;  and  no  one  could,  or  rather 
would,  inform  me  when  the  great  man  was  likely  to  return. 

It  now  occurred  to  me  that  I was  deceived,  and  my  sus- 
picions at  once  fell  upon  Lecholetebe.  Still,  hoping  I might 
be  mistaken,  I waited  patiently  for  several  days,  but  to  no 
purpose.  In  the  mean  time,  the  women  of  the  village  had 
secretly  informed  Timbo,  who,  as  usual,  was  a great  favorite 
with  the  sex,  that  their  husbands  would  to  a certainty  not 
return  for  a month,  and  that  even  then  I could  not  expect 


THE  AUTHOR’S  PLANS  MARRED. 


475 


to  receive  any  assistance  from  them.  I felt  excessively  mor- 
tified at  being  thus  basely  duped,  an^  at  once  called  on  the 
only  man  left  in  the  place,  who,  I was  informed,  was  the 
chief’s  brother,  and  ordered  him  to  tell  me,  without  prevari- 
cation, the  real  state  of  the  case.  As  I had  suspected,  Le- 
choletebe  was  at  the  bottom  of  the  affair.  The  man  declared 
he  had  no  orders  to  furnish  me  with  men  and  boats,  but  that, 
if  I insisted  on  proceeding,  he  was  to  give  a guide  to  the  next 
tribe,  whence  I was  to  find  my  way  to  Libebe  as  well  as  I 
could,  well  knowing  that  such  an  arrangement  was  quite  in- 
compatible with  my  designs. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  my  feelings  at  being  thus  baf- 
fled, as,  from  the  success  that  had  hitherto  attended  me,  I had 
sanguinely  hoped  it  would  have  been  in  my  power  fully  to 
carry  out  all  my  plans.  Here  I was,  in  the  midst  of  an  in- 
undated country  of  unknown  extent,  without  men,  without 
conveyances,  without  provisions — in  short,  without  any  thing 
necessary  for  such  an  expedition.  Indeed,  I was  so  com- 
pletely at  the  mercy  of  the  natives  that  I could  not  stir  a 
step  without  their  assistance.  Nevertheless,  rather  than  be 
thus  foiled,  I determined  to  risk  the  utmost,  and  directed  the 
promised  guide  to  appear  without  delay,  declaring  my  inten- 
tion of  proceeding  to  Libebe  on  foot.  But  it  was  quite  clear 
they  had  resolved  not  to  let  me  pass  beyond  them,  for,  though 
I waited  several  days  more,  the  man  was  not  forthcoming. 

Finding  remonstrances  unavailing,  I had  no  alternative  but 
to  retrace  my  steps,  and,  accordingly,  I requested  the  tem- 
porary chief  to  prepare  the  canoes  to  convey  me  back  to  the 
Lake.  This  highly  delighted  and  gratified  the  wily  savage. 

Mortified  and  annoyed  at  the  shameful  manner  in  which 
I had  been  treated,  I was  nevertheless  glad  to  have  come 
thus  far.  I had  learned  much  in  this  short  time  (a  summary 
of  which  will  be  given  in  the  following  chapters),  which  I 
could  not  have  done  had  I remained  at  the  Lake,  to  say  noth- 
ing of  the  beautiful,  diversified,  and  novel  scenery  which  al- 


47G 


THE  REED-FERRY THE  BA  YE  YE. 


most  daily  presented  itself  to  the  vi.ew,  which  alone  was  a 
sufficient  reward  for  my  troubles  and  anxieties. 


REED-FERRY.  * 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

The  Bayeye.- — Their  Country ; Persons ; Language ; Disposition  ; Ly- 
ing and  Pilfering  Habits.— -Polygamy  practiced  among  the  Bayeye. 
— Their  Houses;  Dress;  Ornaments;  Weapons;  Liquors;  Agri- 
culture; Grain;  Fruits;  Granaries. — Hunting. — Fishing. — Nets. — 
Diseases. — The  Matsanyana. — The  Bavicko. — Libebe. 

For  a considerable  distance  to  the  northward  of  the  chief’s 
werft,  the  banks  of  the  Teoge  are  inhabited  by  Bayeye,  and 
a few  scattered  Bushmen,  all  acknowledging  Lecholetebe  as 
their  chief.  Cooley  supposes  that  these  people  came  origin- 
ally from  the  West  Coast,  and  that  they  have  been  established 

* The  above  wood-cut  represents  a native  in  the  act  of  ferrying  him- 
self across  the  river  on  nothing  but  a bundle  of  reeds,  with  sidings 
and  uprights  of  the  same  light  materials.  It  is  a most  ingenious  con- 
trivance, and,  in  localities  where  wood  is  scarce,  answers  the  purpose 
admirably. 


THE  BAYEYE. 


477 


in  their  present  abode  for  a long  period.  Formerly,  and  be- 
fore their  subj  ugation  by  the  Bechuanas,  they  must  have  pos- 
sessed a large  territory,  and  even  now  the  country  they  oc- 
cupy is  of  considerable  extent,  consisting,  as  I believe,  of  one 
continued  plain,  intersected  by  rivers,  with  extensive  marshes. 
The  banks  of  the  rivers  are,  in  general,  very  low,  but  wher- 
ever they  rise  a few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water  they 
are  shaded  by  a rank  and  wild  vegetation.  The  trees  are  of 
a gigantic  size,  having  their  stems  and  branches  interwoven 
with  beautiful  parasitical  plants  and  creepers. 

In  person,  feature,  and  complexion  the  Bayeye  appear  close- 
ly allied  to  the  Ovambo  and  the  Hill-Damaras. 

The  language  of  the  Bayeye  bears  considerable  resemblance 
to  the  Ovaherero,  and  has,  moreover,  some  affinity  with  the 
dialects  of  the  East  Coast,  though  two  or  three  64  klicks”  would 
seem  to  indicate  a Hottentot  origin.* 

The  Bayeye  are  of  a merry  and  cheerful  disposition,  and, 
like  my  friends  the  Hamaras,  are  the  happiest  of  creatures, 
provided  they  have  a pot  full  of  flesh  and  a pipe.  These  ele- 
ments of  human  felicity  are  not,  however,  peculiar  to  savages, 
as  may  be  seen  in  the  following  stanza  of  an  old  song,  often 
chanted  by  our  English  rustic  forefathers : 

“ What  more  can  any  man  desire, 

Nor  sitting  by  a good  coal  fire, 

* As  perhaps  many  of  my  readers  are  interested  in  philology,  I may 
mention  that  in  the  “ Geographical  Journal”  of  this  year  I have  intro- 
duced a short  vocabulary  of  the  Bayeye  language.  The  words,  though 
necessarily  few  in  number,  have  been  selected  with  a view  to  their 
utility,  and  consist  chiefly  of  those  denoting  family  relations,  names 
of  the  different  parts  of  the  body,  familiar  objects,  numerals,  &c.  I 
have,  at  the  same  time,  given  the  corresponding  terms  in  the  Otjihe- 
rero  (Damara)  and  the  Chjlimanse  (a  tribe  inhabiting  the  country 
west  of  the  Portuguese  settlement  on  the  East  Coast)  to  show  the  strik- 
ing analogy  existing  between  these  languages.  The  nations  here  men- 
tioned occupy  a narrow  strip  of  territory  extending  obliquely  across 
the  continent  from  the  West  Coast  almost  to  that  of  the  East. 


478 


THIEVING  PROPENSITIES. 


And  on  his  knee  a pretty  wench, 

And  on  the  table  a bowl  of  punch  ?** 

In  one  respect  the  English  clown  has  an  advantage  over  the 
barbarian  of  South  Africa,  inasmuch  as  the  latter  does  not  ap- 
pear to  make  any  stipulation  in  favor  of  a female  companion. 

The  Bayeye  are  much  given  to  lying  and  pilfering,  and  are 
as  suspicious  as  they  are  deceitful.  As  an  instance  of  their 
thievish  propensities,  I may  mention  that,  when  ascending  the 
Teoge,  they  deprived  me  gradually  of  almost  the  entire  stock 
of  articles  of  exchange,  consisting  chiefly  of  beads.  These 
things  constituted  my  only  money,  and  being  well  aware  that 
without  it  I should  not  be  able  to  get  on,  I determined  to 
recover  my  property  at  all  hazards.  But,  before  proceeding 
to  extremes,  I was  anxious  to  acquire  positive  proofs  of  the 
guilt  of  my  treacherous  companions.  Accordingly,  I order- 
ed my  own  men  to  mark  carefully  the  different  parcels.  As 
soon  as  the  canoes  arrived  at  night  at  the  appointed  rendez- 
vous (we  ourselves,  as  I have  mentioned,  were  walking)  we 
hastened  to  the  shore,  and,  while  Timbo  was  ransacking  the 
baggage,  I stationed  myself  at  the  head  of  the  canoe,  in  order 
to  prevent  tho  crew  from  landing  until  we  had  ascertained  if 
any  pilfering  had  taken  place  during  our  absence. 

Scarcely  had  my  servant  opened  the  first  pack  before  he 
exclaimed,  “ Oh  yes,  master,  the  rascals  have  been  there,  sure 
enough !”  Immediately  stepping  up  to  the  native  who  was 
in  charge  of  the  canoe,  I presented  my  gun,  on  cock,  at  his 
head,  threatening  to  blow  out  his  brains  if  he  did  not  instant- 
ly produce  the  stolen  goods.  A scene  of  the  utmost  confusion 
now  took  place.  The  men  appeared  at  first  inclined  to  be 
hostile,  many  seizing  their  arms,  while  the  women  were  run- 
ning to  and  fro,  crying  and  howling  in  a manner  which  baf- 
fles all  description.  However,  I was  determined,  come  what 
would,  to  have  my  property  back,  and  I quietly  told  them 
that  their  menaces  should  be  of  no  avail,  for  the  first  indi- 
vidual who  attempted  to  molest  me  would,  to  a certainty,  be 


MYTHOLOGY— RELIGION POLYGAMY.  47  9 

a dead  man.  And,  to  give  effect  to  my  threat,  I added,  with 
a significant  look  at  the  gun,  that  they  well  knew  I was  not 
much  in  the  habit  of  missing  my  mark.  Conceiving  that  I 
was  in  earnest,  they  thought  better  of  the  matter,  and  in  a 
few  seconds  I had  half  a dozen  of  them  at  my  feet,  begging 
I would  spare  their  lives,  and  promising  that  if  I would  not 
mention  the  circumstance  to  their  paramount  chief,  Lecho- 
letebe,  they  would  forthwith  restore  the  missing  articles. 

Being  but  too  glad  to  recover  my  property  on  such  easy 
terms,  I declared  myself  satisfied,  warning  them,  however, 
of  the  consequences  of  any  future  attempt  on  their  part  to 
steal,  as  I should  certainly  not  again  trouble  myself  about 
inquiring  who  was  the  thief,  but  would  simply  shoot  the  first 
man  I came  across.  This  had  the  desired  effect;  for  they 
not  only  left  my  property  untouched  for  the  future,  but  treated 
me  with  far  more  civility  than  they  had  hitherto  manifested. 

The  men,  excepting  when  hunting  and  fishing,  in  which 
pursuits  they  show  great  activity,  usually  lead  a very  idle 
life  at  home.  All  the  drudgery  falls  on  the  women,  who 
till  the  ground,  reap,  and  afterward  cleanse  and  grind  the 
corn,  &c. 

Respecting  their  mythology  and  religion  I am  so  much  in 
the  dark  that  it  would  not  be  worth  while  to  communicate 
to  the  reader  the  little  I know.  It  is  always  difficult  to  ob- 
tain information  on  these  subjects  from  savages;  and,  be- 
sides, it  requires  both  time  and  a knowledge  of  their  lan- 
guage. This  applies  also,  though  not  to  as  great  extent,  to 
their  superstitious  notions,  which  are  numerous,  and,  as  may 
well  be  supposed,  often  ridiculous. 

Polygamy  prevails  among  the  Bay  eye,  and  one  not  un- 
frequently  finds  the  more  wealthy  consoling  themselves  with 
half  a dozen  wives. 

They  live  in  large  round  huts,  covered  with  matting  made 
of  rushes,  and  constructed  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of 
the  Namaquas. 


480 


DRESS ORNAMENTS ARMS OCCUPATION. 


The  men  have  adopted,  as  in  many  other  things,  the  dress 
of  their  conquerors,  the  Bechuanas,  which  consists  simply  of 
a piece  of  skin,  broad  in  front,  tied  round  the  waist,  with  a 
tassel  attached  to  it  on  each  side  falling  down  pver  the  hips ; 
and,  in  addition  to  this,  they  wear  a skin,  or  light  caross, 
which  they  accommodate  to  the  body  according  to  the  state 
of  the  weather. 

The  women  dress  very  much  like  those  of  the  Damaras, 
viz.,  with  a short  skin  skirt,  which,  as  well  as  their  own 
persons  (when  they  can  afford  it),  is  profusely  bedecked  with 
beads  and  various  brass,  copper,  and  iron  ornaments.  But 
the  plate  facing  this  page  will  give  a far  better  idea  of  the 
appearance,  attire,  &c.,  of  these  people  than  can  be  conveyed 
in  words. 

They  are  fond  of  the  dance,  which  is  a mimic  representa- 
tion of  the  playful  sports  and  courtships  of  the  different  wild 
animals  surrounding  them. 

The  only  weapons  in  use  among  the  Bayeye  are  light  jav- 
elins, having  sometimes  two  or  three  barbs.  In  addition  to 
this,  the  elders  of  the  nation  carry  a shield,  nearly  oval  in 
form,  made  of  a single  fold  of  ox-hide  ;•  but  they  have  only 
become  acquainted  with  this  means  of  defense  since  they 
were  subdued  by  the  Bechuanas.  To  the  want  of  shields 
they  entirely  attribute  their  own  defeat. 

With  regard  to  their  habits,  customs,  manners,  &c.,  much 
of  what  has  already  been  said  of  the  Bechuanas  may  be  ap- 
plied to  the  Bayeye — a natural  consequence  of  subjugation. 

Like  most  dark-colored  nations,  they  are  addicted  to  in- 
toxicating liquors.  They  understand  how  to  brew  beer,  on 
which  they  frequently  become  inebriated. 

The  men  are  inveterate  snuff-takers,  and  the  women 
“ dacka”  smokers. 

In  former  times  the  Bayeye  possessed  numerous  herds  of 
cattle,  but  these  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Bechuanas 
upon  their  assuming  the  mastery  over  the  country.  They 


B Ay  EYE. 


481 


BAYEYE. 


X 


482 


PRODUCTS. 


are  permitted,  however,  to  rear  a few  goats,  which  they  do 
less  for  the  sake  of  the  milk  and  flesh  than  for  the  skins, 
which  are  converted  into  sleeping  rugs,  and  carosses  for  wear. 
They  also  keep  a few  barn-door  fowls,  but  apparently  of  a 
very  ordinary  breed. 

They  derive  their  chief  subsistence  from  the  produce  of  the 
soil,  which  is  fertile,  yielding  the  necessaries  of  life  in  abun- 
dance, and  with  little  labor.  A month  or  two  before  the 
rainy  season  the  ground  for  cultivation  is  selected,  cleared, 
and  slightly  worked  by  a small,  short  hoe,  the  only  agricul- 
tural implement  I have  seen  used  by  the  Bayeye  in  tilling. 
After  the  first  heavy  rains  they  begin  to  sow  the  corn,  of 
which  there  are  two  kinds  indigenous  to  the  country,  name- 
ly, the  common  “ Cadre,”  and  another  sort,  very  small-grain- 
ed, and  not  unlike  canary-seed — a description  which  is  akin, 
as  I am  informed,  to  the  “ badjera”  of  India.  This  is  more 
nutritious  than  the  other,  and,  when  well  ground,  makes  ex- 
cellent flour.  Tobacco,  calabashes,  watermelons,  pumpkins, 
beans,  and  small  peas  are  also  grown,  as  well  as  different 
kinds  of  edible  earth-fruits,  of  which  the  oiengora  (motu-o- 
hatsi  of  the  Bechuanas,  I believe)  may  be  mentioned  in  par- 
ticular. This  is  a sort  of  bean,  having  its  pods  under  ground. 
It  is  well  known  to  the  Mozambiques ; is  extensively  grown 
by  the  black  population  in  Mauritius,  and  is,  I am  told,  no 
uncommon  article  of  importation  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

Moreover,  the  country,  as  before  said,  produces  a variety 
of  wild  fruit-trees,  which  serve  no  less  to  beautify  the  scene- 
ry than  to  afford  good  and  wholesome  sustenance  to  the  in- 
habitants. Among  the  most  handsome  and  useful  trees,  the 
moshoma  stands,  perhaps,  pre-eminent.  On  account  of  the 
great  height,  the  straightness  of  the  trunk,  and  the  distance 
at  which  it  begins  to  branch  out,  the  fruit  can  only  be  gath- 
ered when  it  falls  to  the  ground.  It  is  then  exposed  to  the 
sun  for  some  time,  and,  when  sufficiently  dried,  is  put  into 
a hollow  piece  of  wood  (a  sort  of  mortar)  and  pulverized.  It 


A USEFUL  PLANT HUNTING FISHING. 


483 


is  fit  for  use  at  any  time  by  simply  mixing  it  with  water, 
when  it  is  not  unlike  honey  in  appearance,  and  has  a sweet, 
agreeable  flavor.  Strangers,  however,  must  use  it  cautiously 
at  first,  for  if  eaten  in  any  large  quantity  it  is  apt  to  derange 
the  stomach.  The  moshoma  invariably  grows  on  the  banks 
of  rivers,  or  in  their  immediate  neighborhood,  and  may,  with 
the  greatest  facility,  be  conveyed  down  the  Teoge  to  the 
Lake.  The  Bayeye  use  the  timber  extensively  for  canoe- 
building and  in  the  manufacture  of  utensils.  I found  the 
moshoma  growing  in  Ovambo-land,  and  I am  also  given  to 
understand  that  it  is  common  throughout  the  countries  west 
of  the  Portuguese  settlements  on  the  East  Coast. 

The  Bayeye  store  their  corn  and  other  products  of  the  soil 
in  large  baskets,  not  unlike  those  of  the  Ovambo,  manufac- 
tured from  palm -leaves  and  other  fibrous  and  tenacious  sub- 
stances. 

The  Bayeye  are  fond  of  hunting,  and  as  the  country 
abounds  in  game,  the  spoils  of  the  chase  contribute  material- 
ly to  the  support  of  the  people.  They  are,  moreover,  ex- 
pert fishermen.  They  either  strike  the  fish  with  a barbed 
spear,  or,  more  commonly,  capture  them  in  nets.  These  are 
made  from  the  fibrous  stalks  of  a species  of  aloe,  which  is 
found  in  abundance  throughout  the  countries  of  the  Nama- 
quas,  Damaras,  the  Ovambo,  and  others  lying  to  the  east- 
ward, but  only  grows  to  perfection  about  the  Teoge.  The 
fibres  are  of  great  tenacity,  apparently  stronger  and  more  flex- 
ible than  hemp,  though  requiring  less  labor  and  attention  in 
its  growth  and  manufacture.  Could  this  plant  be  natural- 
ized, it  would  no  doubt  prove  a valuable  acquisition  to  any 
country.  I believe  the  nets  are  also  occasionally  manufac- 
tured from  fibrous  and  tenacious  leaves,  rushes,  and  grasses. 
The  meshes  are  knotted  the  same  way  as  in  Europe. 

From  the  humid  nature  of  the  country,  the  Bayeye,  al- 
though, generally  speaking,  a healthy  race,  suffer  at  times 
from  rheumatism  and  other  similar  affections.  Ophthalmia 


484  THE  MATSANYANA THE  BAVICKO LIBEBE. 

is  also  of  frequent  occurrence ; and  many  of  the  natives  bear 
marks  of  the  small-pox.  Like  the  Lake  district,  the  Teoge 
and  the  surrounding  country  is  visited  by  a dangerous  fever, 
which  carries  off  many  of  the  natives. 

North  of  the  Bayeye  country  we  find  the  Matsanyana, 
but  I have  not  been  able  to  ascertain  whether  these  people 
form  a distinct  nation. 

Still  further  north,  that  is,  beyond  the  Matsanyana,  we 
hear  of  the  Bavicko  (or  Wavicko)  nation,  whose  capital  is 
called  Libebe,  from  which  also  the  chief  derives  his  name. 
The  Griquas,  whom  I mentioned  when  speaking  of  the  water- 
sheds of  the  Lake,  and  whom  I met  and  conversed  with  on 
the  subject,  say  that  the  country  about  Libebe  is  flat  and 
thickly  overgrown  with  bush,  occasionally  relieved  by  large 
isolated  trees,  and  that  the  Teoge  is  there  of  great  width  and 
studded  with  beautiful  islands,  on  which  the  natives  chiefly 
dwell. 

The  Bavicko  are  represented  as  an  industrious  and  honest 
people  of  agricultural  habits.  Their  mode  of  dress  resem- 
bles that  of  the  Moviza  (a  great  trading  nation  in  the  interior 
of  the  East  Coast,  and  west  of  the  Portuguese  settlement). 
Timbo,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  appearance  of  the 
Moviza,  on  hearing  a description  of  the  Bavicko,  mistook 
them  for  the  former  nation.  The  latter  have  some  slight 
knowledge  of  metallurgy.  Iron  they  procure  easily  and  in 
abundance  from  their  neighbors  ; but,  from  all  I can  gather, 
this  ore  does  not  seem  to  be  indigenous  to  their  own  country. 

Libebe  appears  to  be  the  centre  of  a great  inland  trade. 
Among  other  tribes  that  repair  here  for  the  purpose  of  com- 
merce are  the  Mambari,  a race  probably  resident  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  new  Portuguese  settlement,  Little  Fish  Bay. 
A strong  argument  in  favor  of  this  supposition  is,  that  the 
Griquas,  lately  alluded  to,  and  who  found  a party  of  these 
men  at  Libebe,  were  informed  by  them  that  their  tribe  was 
visited  by  two  different  white  nations:  by  one  of  them — 


DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  BAYEYE  WERFT  ON  A RAFT.  485 

meaning  probably  the  Portuguese — chiefly  for  the  purpose  of 
purchasing  slaves  ; by  the  other— most  likely  the  English  or 
Americans — to  obtain,  by  barter,  ivory  and  other  valuable 
productions  of  the  country.  The  Mambari  bring  to  Libebe, 
as  articles  of  exchange,  blue  and  striped  cotton,  baize,  beads, 
and  even  cattle. 

Again,  we  find  the  Ovapangari  and  Ovapanyama  also 
visiting  Libebe  for  trading  purposes.  These  nations,  as  be- 
fore mentioned,  occupy  the  country  north  of  Ovambo-land. 
On  a visit  to  the  latter  in  1851  (Galton’s  expedition),  we 
found  the  tribes  above  named  likewise  trading  with  the 
Ovambo.  The  Bavicko  have,  moreover,  intercourse  with 
Sebetoane,  Lecholetebe,  and  others. 


CHAPTER  XL. 

Departure  from  the  Bayeye  Werft. — The  Reed-raft. — The  Hippopota- 
mus.— Behemoth  or  Hippopotamus. — Where  found. — Two  Species. 
— Description  of  Hippopotamus. — Appearance. — Size. — Swims  like 
a Duck. — Food. — Destructive  Propensities  of  the  Animal. — Disposi- 
tion.— Sagacity. — Memory. — Gregarious  Habits. — Nocturnal  Habits. 
— Domestication. — Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — Ivory.-— Medicinal  Vir- 
tues. 

After  about  a week’s  stay  at  the  Bayeye  werft,  I was 
once  more  launched  on  the  Teoge,  and  only  regretted  that 
my  course  did  not  lie  to  the  north  instead  of  to  the  south. 
My  departure  afforded  a fresh  proof  of  the  rascality  of  the 
Bayeye.  As  previously  mentioned,  according  to  the  injunc- 
tions of  Lecholetebe,  I was  to  have  two  canoes  at  my  dis- 
posal ; but,  on  the  day  in  question,  the  natives  unceremoni- 
ously deposited  me  on  a raft  composed  solely  of  reeds ! When 
I first  saw  the  unshapely  mass,  I could  not  help  smiling  ; and 
it  was  not  until  I had  set  my  people  the  example  that  they 
ventured  to  embark. 

This  primitive  raft,  which  is  in  general  use  among  the 


486 


THE  REED-RAFT. 


Bayeye,  either  for  hunting  purposes  or  for  descending  the 
Teoge  and  other  rivers,  is  exceedingly  simple  in  its  construc- 
tion. All  one  has  to  do  is  to  cut  the  reeds  (the  different 
species  of  palmyra,  from  their  buoyancy,  are  peculiarly  well 
adapted  to  the  purpose)  j ust  above  the  surface  of  the  water, 
and  to  throw  them  in  layers,  crosswise,  until  the  heap  is  of 
sufficient  size  to  support  the  party.  No  binding  of  any  kind 
is  requisite;  but  fresh  layers  of  reeds  must  occasionally  be 
added  to  the  raft,  as,  from  the  constant  pressure  at  the  top, 
the  reeds  get  soaked,  and  the  air  contained  in  them  displaced 
by  water.  A stout  pole  is  placed  upright  in  the  centre  of  the 
mass,  to  which  is  attached  a strong  and  long  rope.  * When 
the  voyagers  wish  to  land,  this  rope  is  taken  ashore  by  one 
of  the  men  in  the  canoe  that  is  always  in  tow  or  on  board 
the  raft,  and  secured  to  a tree  or  other  firm  object. 

No  small  recommendation  to  the  reed-raft  is  the  extreme 
facility  and  ease  with  which  it  can  be  constructed.  In  the 
course  of  an  hour,  three  or  four  men  can  put  one  together  of 
sufficiently  large  dimensions  to  support  themselves  and  bag- 
gage. 

This  mode  of  conveyance,  though  inconvenient  enough,  is 
well  worthy  the  traveler’s  attention,  and  more  especially  in 
localities  where  suitable  wood  for  the  construction  of  a com- 
mon raft  is  difficult  to  procure — any  where,  in  short,  where 
boats  or  canoes  are  not  obtainable.  It  must  be  borne  in 
mind,  however,  that  the  reed-raft  is  only  available  where  the 
current  is  in  one’s  favor. 

Though  I was  at  first  much  disconcerted  at  the  appear- 
ance of  our  very  primitive  looking  craft,  I soon  got  accus- 
tomed to  it,  and  it  proved  far  more  comfortable  than  might 
have  been  supposed.  It  was  much  safer,  moreover,  than  our 
own  canoes,  one  or  two  of  which  we  obtained  shortly  after 
our  departure.  No  efforts  were  made  to  steer  or  propel  the 
raft,  which  was  left  entirely  to  the  stream.  As  soon  as  we 
were  caught  by  some  projecting  reed-bed — and  this  was  of 


BEHEMOTH. 


487 


frequent  occurrence — the  raft  immediately  swung  round  and 
thus  disengaged  itself ; but  when  we  came  in  contact  with 
trees  overhanging  the  river,  we  were  more  inconvenienced ; 
for,  before  we  could  get  clear  of  them,  ourselves  and  baggage 
were  at  times  nearly  swept  into  the  water.  In  this  manner, 
nevertheless,  and  without  serious  accident,  we  accomplished 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  nine  days,  entirely  by 
the  force  of  the  current,  which  rarely  exceeded  two  miles  an 
hour. 

While  descending  the  Teoge  we  met  several  parties  of  na- 
tives in  pursuit  of  the  hippopotamus ; the  men  were  em- 
barked on  rafts  similarly  constructed  as  our  own.  But,  be- 
fore describing  the  manner  in  which  the  chase  is  conducted 
by  these  people,  it  may  be  proper  to  say  a few  words  regard- 
ing the  natural  history  of  the  above  animal. 

“ Behold  now  behemoth  which  I made  with  thee ; he  eat- 
eth  grass  as  an  ox  : his  bones  are  as  strong  pieces  of  brass  ; 
his  bones  are  like  bars  of  iron ; he  lieth  under  the  shady 
trees,  in  the  covert  of  the  reed  and  fens.  The  shady  trees 
cover  him  with  their  shadow : the  willows  of  the  brook  com- 
pass him  about.  Behold,  he  drinketh  up  a river ; he  trusteth 
that  he  can  draw  up  Jordan  into  his  mouth.  He  taketh  it 
with  his  eyes ; his  nose  pierceth  through  snares.5’ 

The  above  grand  and  figurative  language  of  the  book  of 
Job  seems  particularly  applicable  to  the  hippopotamus,  whom 
most  people  believe  to  be  identical  with  the  behemoth  of  the 
sacred  writer.  Indeed,  in  his  “ Systema  Naturas,55  Linnaeus 
ends  his  description  of  the  hippopotamus  with  calling  it  the 
“ Behemot  Jobi .”  » 

The  hippopotamus  is  generally  distributed  in  the  large 
rivers  and  lakes  of  Africa,  from  the  confines  of  the  Cape 
Colony  to  about  the  22d  or  23d  degree  of  north  latitude.  It 
is  found  in  none  of  the  African  rivers  that  fall  into  the  Med- 
iterranean except  the  Nile,  and  in  that  part  of  it  only  which 
runs  through  Upper  Egypt,  or  in  the  fens  and  lakes  of  Ethi- 


488 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS. 


opia.  It  is,  however,  receding  fast  before  civilization.  It 
inhabits  both  fresh  and  salt  water. 

Formerly,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  it  existed  in  parts 
of  Asia ; but  the  species  is  now  extinct  on  that  continent. 

There  are  said  to  be  two  species  of  hippopotami  in  Africa, 
namely,  the  hippopotamus  amphibius  and  the  hippopotamus 
Liberiensis , the  latter  being  described  as  very  much  the  small- 
er of  the  two ; but,  to  the  best  of  my  belief,  I never  fell  in 
with  it. 

The  hippopotamus  is  a most  singular-looking  animal,  and 
has  not  inaptly  been  likened  to  a “ form  intermediate  be- 
tween an  overgrown  hog  and  a high-fed  bull  without  horns 
and  with  cropped  ears.”  It  has  an  immensely  large  head. 
Kay  says  the  upper  mandible  is  movable,  as  with  the  croco- 
dile. Each  of  its  jaws  is  armed  with  two  formidable  tusks ; 
those  in  the  lower,  which  are  always  the  largest,  attain,  at 
times,  two  feet  in  length.  The  inside  of  the  mouth  has  been 
described  by  a recent  writer  as  resembling  “ a mass  of  butch- 
er’s meat.”  The  eyes — which  Captain  Harris  likens  66  to 
the  garret  windows  of  a Dutch  cottage” — the  nostrils  and 
ears,  are  all  placed  nearly  on  the  same  plane,  which  allows  the 
use  of  three  senses,  and  of  respiration,  with  a very  small  por- 
tion of  the  animal  being  exposed  when  it  rises  to  the  surface 
of  the  water.  The  size  of  its  body  is  not  much  inferior  to  , 
that  of  the  elephant,  but  its  legs  are  much  shorter — so  low, 
indeed,  is  the  animal  at  times  in  the  body  that  the  belly  al- 
most touches  the  ground.  The  hoofs  are  divided  into  four 
parts,  unconnected  by  membranes.  The  skin,  which  is  of 
nearly  an  inch  in  thickness,  is  destitute  of  covering,  excepting 
a few  scattered  hairs  on  the  muzzle,  edges  of  the  ears,  and 
tail.  The  color  of  the  animal,  when  on  land,  is  of  a purple 
brown;  but  when  seen  at  the  bottom  of  a pool  it  appears 
altogether  different,  viz.,  of  a dark  blue,  or,  as  Dr.  Burcliell 
describes  it,  of  a light  hue  of  Indian  ink. 

When  the  hippopotamus  is  enraged,  its  appearance  is  most 


SIZE  OF  THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS. 


489 


forbidding  and  appalling,  and  I am  not  surprised  to  hear  of 
people  losing  their  presence  of  mind  on  being  suddenly 
brought  into  contact  with  the  monster,  whose  horrible  jaws, 
when  fully  distended,  afford  ample  accommodation  for  a man.  '" 

The  size  of  the  II.  amphibius  is  enormous.  The  adult 
male  attains  a length  of  eleven  or  twelve  feet,  the  circum- 
ference of  its  body  being  nearly  the  same.  Its  height,  how- 
ever, seldom  much  exceeds  four  and  a half  feet.  The  female 
is  a good  deal  smaller  than  the  male,  but  in  general  appear- 
ance the  sexes  are  nearly  alike. 

The  following  dimensions  of  the  female  hippopotamus  at 
the  Zoological  Gardens,  Regent’s  Park,  may  enable  those 
who  are  curious  in  the  matter  to  form  some  notion  of  the 
progressive  growth  of  the  animal — at  least  in  a state  of  con- 
finement— when  young : 


On  its  arrival,  July  22,  1854. 


From  nose  to  tip  of  tail 8 ft.  4 in. 

Circumference  of  body 7 1 

Height  at  shoulder 3 5 


At  present,  Jan.,  1856, 

“ 10  ft.  1 in. 

“89 
“ 3 10 


The  hippopotamus,  when  in  the  water — I won’t  say  its 
u native  element,”  for  it  seems  to  belong  as  much  to  the  land 
as  the  deeps — swims  and  dives  like  a duck,  and,  considering 
its  great  bulk  and  unwieldiness  of  form,  in  a manner  perfect- 
ly astonishing.  When  on  terra  firma,  however,  what  with 
its  dumpy  legs  and  the  weight  they  have  to  support,  its 
progress  is  any  thing  but  rapid. 


“ The  hippopotamus,  amidst  the  flood 
Flexile  and  active  as  the  smallest  swimmer, 

But  on  the  bank  ill-balanced  and  infirm.” 

Even  were  the  beast  to  charge — provided  the  locality  was 
tolerably  open — a man  would  have  no  great  difficulty  in  get- 
ting out  of  his  way.  It  is  seldom  met  with  at  any  consid- 

* In  an  old  painting  at  Hampton  Court  representing  the  Last  J udg- 
ment,  the  mouth  of  the  hippopotamus  is  said  to  be  figured  as  the  en- 
trance of  the  “ place  of  the  wicked.” 

X 2 


490 


FOOD DESTRUCTIVENESS DISPOSITION. 


erable  distance  from  water,  for  which  it  instantly  makes 
when  disturbed. 

The  hippopotamus  is  an  herbaceous  animal.  Its  chief 
food,  in  the  selection  of  which  it  appears  rather  nice,  con- 
sists of  grass,  young  reeds,  and  bulbous  succulent  roots. 

When  the  hippopotamus  is  located  near  cultivated  dis- 
tricts, it  is  very  destructive  to  plantations  of  rice  and  grain. 
Mr.  Melly,  in  his  description  of  the  Blue  and  White  Nile,  in- 
forms us  that  the  inhabitants  of  a certain  island  found  them- 
selves so  plagued  by  these  animals  that  they  were  obliged  to 
apply  for  troops  to  drive  them  away,  which  was  responded 
to  by  a hundred  soldiers  being  dispatched  in  pursuit  of  the 
marauders.  Mr.  Burckhardt,  again,  in  his  travels  in  Nubia, 
tells  us  that  in  Dongola,  the  u barnick”  (the  Arabic  name 
for  hippopotamus)  is  a dreadful  torment  on  account  of  its 
voracity,  and  the  want  of  means  on  the  part  of  the  natives 
to  destroy  it.  During  the  day  it  remains  in  the  water,  but 
comes  on  shore  at  night,  destroying  as  much  by  the  treading 
of  its  enormous  feet  as  by  its  voracity. 

The  ravages  of  the  hippopotamus  would  appear  to  be  an 
old  grievance,  for  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson,  when  speaking  of 
the  ancient  Egyptians,  says  : “ Though  not  so  hostile  to  man 
as  the  voracious  crocodile,  it  was  looked  upon  as  an  enemy, 
which  they  willingly  destroyed,  since  the  ravages  it  commit- 
ted at  night  in  the  fields  occasioned  heavy  losses  to  the 
farmer.” 

Naturalists  and  others  represent  the  hippopotamus  as  of 
a mild  and  inoffensive  disposition.  It  may  be  so  in  regions 
where  it  is  unacquainted  with  man  ; from  the  numerous  un- 
provoked attacks  made  by  these  animals  on  voyagers,  and 
the  very  great  dread  entertained  of  them  by  the  Bayeye,  who, 
so  to  say,  live  among  them,  I am  inclined  to  believe  they  are 
not  quite  such  harmless  animals  as  we  are  given  to  under- 
stand. In  ascending  the  Teoge,  I saw  comparatively  little 
of  them,  and  used  almost  to  ridicule  the  natives  on  account 


FEARLESSNESS SAGACITY HABITS. 


491 


of  the  timidity  they  showed  when  these  beasts  made  their 
appearance.  But  on  my  return  journey  I very  frequently 
encountered  the  hippopotamus.  More  than  once  I narrowly 
escaped  with  life,  and  found  that  the  men  had  good  reason 
to  fear  a contest  with  this  truly  formidable  animal. 

In  regions  not  much  visited  by  the  European  hunter  and 
his  destructive  companion,  the  firelock,  the  hippopotamus 
appears  as  a comparatively  fearless  animal,  not  unfrequently 
abiding  the  approach  of  man,  whom  he  apparently  surveys 
with  a curious  and  searching  look,  as  much  as  to  say, 
“Why  this  intrusion  upon  my  native  haunts,  which  I have 
enjoyed  in  undisturbed  tranquillity  from  time  immemorial  V9 
But  man  is  cruel,  and  by  his  relentless  persecutions  a na- 
ture, once  unsuspicious  and  confiding,  is  soon  changed  to 
that  of  the  most  timid  and  circumspective,  causing  the  ani- 
mal to  take  instant  refuge  in  the  water  on  hearing  the  least 
noise. 

The  sagacity  of  the  hippopotamus  is  very  considerable. 
Indeed,  if  we  are  to  credit  the  testimony  of  Plinius,  the  cun- 
ning and  dexterity  of  this  beast  is  so  great  that,  when  pur- 
sued, he  will  walk  backward  in  order  to  mislead  his  enemies. 
“ The  habits  of  the  animal,”  says  Dr.  Andrew  Smith,  “ are 
opposed  to  our  becoming  intimately  acquainted  with  it ; yet, 
from  what  has  been  noticed  of  its  adroitness  in  guarding 
against  assailants,  in  avoiding  pits  dug  purposely  to  entrap 
it,  in  conducting  its  young  both  in  and  out  of  the  water,  and 
in  migrating  from  localities  which  it  may  have  discovered 
are  not  to  be  longer  held  without  serious  danger  to  others 
not  exposed  to  such  inconveniences — even  though  to  reach 
those  it  may  require  to  make  long  journeys — are  all  evidences 
that  it  is  far  from  the  stupid  animal  it  has  been  frequently 
described.” 

It  is  asserted  that  if  a hippopotamus  be  shot  dead  just 
after  calving,  the  offspring  will  immediately  make  for  the 
water,  an  element  which  it  has  never  yet  seen! 


492 


MEMORY HABITS. 


Its  memory  is  also  considered  good.  “ When  once  a hip- 
popotamus/’ says  the  author  just  quoted,  “ has  been  assailed 
in  its  watery  dwelling,  and  injured  from  incautiously  expos- 
ing itself,  it  will  rarely  be  guilty  of  the  same  indiscretion  a 
second  time;  and  though  its  haunts  may  not  again  be  ap- 
proached by  hunters  till  after  a long  period  has  elapsed,  it 
will  survey  such  approaches,  and  perform  the  movements 
necessary  for  its  respiration  with  a degree  of  caution,  which 
clearly  shows  that  it  has  not  forgotten  the  misfortunes  to 
which  an  opposite  course  had  exposed  it.” 

The  hippopotamus  is  gregarious,  and  is  usually  found  in 
troops  of  from  five  or  six,  to  as  many  as  twenty  or  thirty. 
It  is  amusing  to  watch  these  animals  when  congregated  ; to 
see  them  alternately  rising  and  sinking,  as  if  impelled  by 
some  invisible  agency,  in  the  while  snorting  most  tremen- 
dously, and  blowing  the  water  in  every  direction.  At  others, 
they  will  remain  perfectly  motionless  near  the  surface,  with 
the  whole  or  part  of  their  heads  protruding.  In  this  posi- 
tion they  look,  at  a little  distance,  like  so  many  rocks. 

The  hippopotamus  is  a nocturnal  animal,  and  seldom  or 
never  feeds  except  during  the  night.  He  usually  passes  most 
part  of  the  day  in  the  water,  but  it  is  somewhat  doubtful 
if  this  be  not  rather  from  necessity  than  choice.  Indeed,  in 
more  secluded  localities,  one  most  commonly  sees  it  reclining 
in  some  retired  spot : “ He  lieth  under  the  shady  trees,  in 
the  covert  of  the  reeds  and  fens.  The  shady  trees  cover  him 
with  their  shadows,  the  willows  of  the  brook  compass  him 
about.”  Or  it  may  be  under  shelter  of  an  overhanging  dry 
bank ; or,  at  least,  with  its  body  partially  out  of  the  water. 
I have  not  unfrequently  found  the  animal  in  this  situation, 
and  once  shot  an  immense  fellow  while  fast  asleep,  with  his 
head  resting  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

When,  from  fear  of  enemies,  the  hippopotamus  is  com- 
pelled to  remain  in  the  water  throughout  the  day,  it  takes 
the  shore  on  the  approach  of  night  in  order  to  feed.  Just  as 


DOMESTICATION KNOWN  TO  THE  ANCIENTS.  493 

it  emerges  into  the  shallows,  it  has  the  peculiar  habit  of  per- 
forming some  of  the  functions  of  nature,  during  which  it 
keeps  rapidly  thumping  the  surface  of  the  water  with  its 
stumpy  tail,  thereby  creating  a very  great  noise.  I have 
known  from  twenty  to  thirty  hippopotami  thus  occupied  at 
once ; and,  to  add  to  the  din,  they  would  at  the  same  time 
grunt  and  bellow  to  such  a degree  as  to  deprive  our  party  of 
the  rest  that  exhausted  nature  but  too  much  needed. 

During  the  nocturnal  excursions  of  the  hippopotamus  on 
land,  it  wanders  at  times  to  some  distance  from  the  water. 
On  one  occasion  the  animal  took  us  by  surprise,  for,  without 
the  slightest  warning,  it  suddenly  protruded  its  enormous 
head  within  a few  feet  of  our  bivouac,  causing  every  man  to 
start  to  his  feet  with  the  greatest  precipitation,  some  of  us,  in 
the  confusion,  rushing  into  the  fire  and  upsetting  the  pots 
containing  our  evening  meal. 

The  hippopotamus  would  seem  to  be  easily  domesticated. 
We  may  judge  so,  at  least,  from  the  fine  specimens  now  in  the 
Zoological  Gardens,  Regent’s  Park,  which  are  as  manageable 
as  most  of  the  larger  animals  of  that  magnificent  establish- 
ment. Though  these  are  the  first  living  specimens  that  ever 
found  their  way  into  England,  the  ancient  Romans  (who,  dur- 
ing their  conquests  in  Northern  Africa,  became  acquainted 
with  the  hippopotamus)  held  them  in  captivity.  This  may 
be  safely  inferred ; for  “ on  a medal  of 
the  Emperor  Philip,  or  rather  of  his 
Queen  Otacilla  Severa  is  (as  seen  in 
the  adjoining  wood-cut)  a very  strik- 
ing likeness  of  a young,  and,  perhaps, 
hungry  hippopotamus,  designed  by 
some  Wyon  of  the  day.  This  is,  per- 
haps, the  earliest  good  figure  of  the 
creature;  and  its  representation  on 
such  a place  shows  in  what  estimation,  as  a novelty,  it  was 
held.” 


494 


FOOD FLESH HIDE TEETH. 


For  the  information  of  the  curious  in  these  matters,  I may 
mention  that  the  food  of  the  larger  of  the  hippopotami  now 
in  the  Regent’s  Park  Gardens,  when  first  shipped  at  Alexan- 
dria in  1850,  and  when  yet  comparatively  a “baby,”  con- 
sisted of  the  milk  of  two  cows  and  three  goats.  This  quan- 
tity, however,  until  supplemented  with  Indian  corn-meal,  was 
found  insufficient  to  satisfy  his  voracity.  On  his  arrival  at 
the  gardens,  “ oatmeal  was  substituted  for  Indian  corn ; and 
the  change,  with  an  extra  supply  of  milk,  seemed  to  give  the 
gigantic  infant  great  satisfaction.”  By  degrees,  vegetable  diet 
was  supplied  instead  of  milk ; and  at  the  present  day  the 
animal  is  fed  on  clover,  hay,  corn,  chaff,  bran,  mangle-wur- 
zel,  carrots,  and  white  cabbage.  The  three  last-named  vege- 
tables constitute  his  most  favorite  food.  On  this  (1  cwt.  be- 
ing his  daily  allowance)  he  thrives  wonderfully,  a proof  of 
which  is,  that  since  his  arrival  (he  then  weighed  about  one 
thousand  pounds)  he  has  increased  more  than  a ton  in  weight. 

The  flesh  of  the  hippopotamus  is  highly  esteemed,  and 
with  justice,  for  it  is  very  palatable.  The  tongue  is  reck- 
oned a delicacy,  and  the  fat  (“  speck,”  as  it  is  termed  by  the 
colonists)  is  very  excellent,  and  forms  a capital  substitute  for 
butter.  In  general,  both  flesh  and  fat  of  wild  animals  have 
a peculiar  and  often  strong  flavor,  but  that  of  the  hippopot- 
amus is  an  exception. 

The  hide  is  also  in  much  request,  and  forms  no  mean  arti- 
cle of  commerce  in  the  Cape  Colony.  As  already  mentioned, 
it  is  chiefly  converted  into  “ shamboks.”  In  Northern  Afri- 
ca the  hide  is  used  as  whips  for  the  dromedary,  as  also  for 
punishing  refractory  servants.  The  ancient  Egyptians  em- 
ployed it  largely  in  the  manufacture  of  shields,  helmets,  jave- 
lins, &c. 

But  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  hippopotamus  is  its 
teeth  (canine  and  incisors),  which  are  considered  greatly  su- 
perior to  elephant  ivory,  and  when  perfect,  and  weighty — 
say  from  five  to  eight  pounds  each — have  been  known  to 


MEDICINAL  VIRTUES THE  HARPOON  DESCRIBED.  495 

fetch  as  much  as  one  guinea  per  pound.  It  is  chiefly  used 
for  artificial  teeth,  for  which  purpose  it  is  particularly  well 
adapted,  since  it  does  not  readily  turn  yellow,  as  is  frequent- 
ly the  case  with  elephant  ivory ; as  also  for  instruments,  knife- 
handles,  and  a variety  of  other  purposes. 

Medicinal  virtues  are  attributed  to  certain  parts  of  the 
body  of  the  hippopotamus.  According  to  Thunberg,  the  pro- 
cessus mamillaris  of  this  animal  is  an  effectual  remedy  for  the 
stone  and  gravel,  and  “the  fat,”  says  Kolben,  “is  reckoned 
an  excellent  thing  against  a surfeit  and  a redundancy  of  hu- 
mors in  the  body.” 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

The  Bayeye  harpoon  the  Hippopotamus. — The  Harpoon  described. — 
How  the  Chase  of  the  Hippopotamus  is  conducted  by  the  Bayeye. 
— How  it  was  conducted  by  the  ancient  Egyptians. — The  Spear 
used  by  them. — Ferocity  of  the  Hippopotamus. — Killed  by  Guns. — - 
Frightful  Accident. — The  Downfall. 

On  the  Teoge,  and  other  rivers  to  the  northward  of  Ngami, 
the 'natives  are  accustomed  to  harpoon  the  hippopotamus  in 
a somewhat  similar  manner  as  that  practiced  with  the  whale. 
X will  endeavor  to  describe  the  process,  which,  singularly 
enough,  has  never,  to  my  knowledge,  been  done  by  any  trav- 
eler. 

The  harpoon  (of  iron),  A,  is,  as  seen  in  the  following  dia- 
gram, short  and  strong,  and  provided  with  a single  barb,  B. 
The  shaft,  or  handle,  C C,  consists  of  a stout  pole,  from  ten 
to  twelve  feet  in  length,  by  three  or  four  inches  in  thickness. 
At  the  inner  end  of  the  shaft,  C C,  is  a socket  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  harpoon,  A,  which  is  farther  secured  to  the  shaft 
(at  about  one  third  from  the  socket)  by  a number  of  small 
cords,  EE*  These  cords,  when  the  animal  is  struck,  and 

* The  object  of  having  the  connecting  line  to  consist  of  a number 
of  small  cords  instead  of  a single  stout  one  is  to  reduce  the  chance 
of  its  being  severed  by  the  teeth  of  the  hippopotamus. 


496 


HOW  THE  CHASE  IS  CONDUCTED. 


a strain  consequently  comes  upon  them,  relax,  so  as  to  allow 
the  harpoon  to  slip  out  of  the  socket,  though,  of  course,  it 
still  remains  attached  to  the  shaft.  To  the  other  extremity 
of  the  handle  is  fixed  the  harpoon-line,  F,  which  is  strong,  and 
of  considerable  length,  and  to  the  end  of  this  a “float”  or 
“ buoy,”  G. 


HIPPOPOTAMUS  HARPOON. 


From  the  weight  of  the  shaft  the  harpoon  is  seldom  or 
never  hurled  at  the  hippopotamus,  but  is  held  by  the  har- 
pooner,  who  drives  it  either  vertically  or  obliquely  into  the 
body  of  the  animal. 

Sometimes  the  chase  is  conducted  with  canoes  alone;  at 
others  in  connection  with  a 66  reed-raft,”  similarly  construct- 
ed to  that  recently  described.  We  will  suppose  the  latter 
plan  is  adopted.  At  the  appointed  time  the  men  assemble 
at  the  rendezvous,  and  after  every  thing  has  been  duly  ar- 
ranged, and  the  canoes  needed  for  the  prosecution  of  the 
hunt  drawn  up  on  the  raft,  the  latter  is  pushed  from  the 
shore,  and  afterward  abandoned  entirely  to  the  stream,  which 
propels  the  unwieldy  mass  gently  and  noiselessly  forward. 

Hippopotami  are  not  found  in  all  parts  of  the  river,  but 
only  in  certain  localities.  On  approaching  their  favorite 
haunts,  the  natives  keep  a very  sharp  look-out  for  the  ani- 
mals, whose  presence  is  often  known  by  their  snorts  and 
grunts,  while  splashing  and  blowing  in  the  water,  or  (should 
there  be  no  interruption  to  the  view)  by  the  ripple  on  the 
surface,  long  before  they  are  actually  seen. 

As  soon  as  the  position  of  the  hippopotami  is  ascertained, 
one  or  more  of  the  most  skillful  and  intrepid  of  the  hunters 
stand  prepared  with  the  harpoons,  while  the  rest  make  ready 


APPROACHING  THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS, 


497 


to  launch  the  canoes,  should  the  attack  prove  successful. 
The  bustle  and  noise  caused  by  these  preparations  gradually 
subside.  Conversation  is  carried  on  in  a whisper,  and  every 
one  is  on  the  qui  vive.  The  snorting  and  plunging  become 
every  moment  more  distinct ; but  a bend  in  the  stream  still 
hides  the  animals  from  view.  The  angle  being  passed,  sev- 
eral dark  objects  are  seen  floating  listlessly  on  the  water,  look- 
ing more  like  the  crests  of  sunken  rocks  than  living  creatures. 
Ever  and  anon,  one  or  other  of  the  shapeless  masses  is  sub- 
merged, but  soon  again  makes  its  appearance  on  the  surface. 
On,  on  glides  the  raft  with  its  sable  crew,  who  are  now 
worked  up  to  the  highest  state  of  excitement.  At  last  the 
raft  is  in  the  midst  of  the  herd,  who  appear  quite  unconscious 
of  danger.  Presently  one  of  the  animals  is  in  immediate 
contact  with  the  raft.  Now  is  the  critical  moment.  The 
foremost  harpooner  raises  himself  to  his  full  height  to  give 


THE  REED-RAFT  ANT)  IJARPOONERS. 


498  HOW  THE  CHASE  IS  CONDUCTED THE  SPEAR. 

the  greater  force  to  the  blow,  and  the  next  instant  the  fatal 
iron  descends  with  unerring  accuracy  in  the  body  of  the  hip- 
popotamus. 

The  wounded  animal  plunges  violently  and  dives  to  the 
bottom,  but  all  his  efforts  to  escape  are  unavailing.  The 
line  or  the  shaft  of  the  harpoon  may  break,  but  the  cruel 
barb  once  imbedded  in  the  flesh,  the  weapon  (owing  to  the 
thickness  and  toughness  of  the  beast’s  hide)  can  not  be  with- 
drawn. 

As  soon  as  the  hippopotamus  is  struck,  one  or  more  of  the 
men  launch  a canoe  from  off  the  raft,  and  hasten  to  the  shore 
with  the  harpoon-line,  and  take  a “ round  turn”  with  it  about 
a tree  or  bunch  of  reeds,  so  that  the  animal  may  either  be 
“ brought  up”  at  once,  or,  should  there  be  too  great  a strain 
on  the  line,  “ played”  (to  liken  small  things  to  great)  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  salmon  by  the  fisherman.  But  if  time 
should  not  admit  of  the  line  being  passed  around  a tree,  or 
the  like,  both  line  and  “buoy”  are  thrown  into  the  water, 
and  the  animal  goes  wheresoever  he  chooses. 

The  rest  of  the  canoes  are  now  all  launched  from  off  the 
raft,  and  chase  is  given  to  the  poor  brute,  who,  so  soon  as  he 
comes  to  the  surface  to  breathe,  is  saluted  with  a shower  of 
light  javelins,  of  which  the  following  wood-cut  is  a sample. 
Again  he  descends,  his  track  deeply  crimsoned  with  gore. 
Presently,  and  perhaps  at  some  little  distance,  he  once  more 
appears  on  the  surface,  when,  as  before,  missiles  of  all  kinds 
are  hurled  at  his  devoted  head. 


THE  SPEAE. 


When  thus  beset,  the  infuriated  beast  not  unfrequently 
turns  upon  his  assailants,  and,  either  with  his  formidable 
tusks,  or  with  a blow  from  his  enormous  head,  staves  in  or 
capsizes  the  canoes.  At  times,  indeed,  not  satisfied  with 


ANCIENT  METHOD  OF  CHASING  THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS.  499 

wreaking  his  vengeance  on  the  craft,  he  will,  attack  one  or 
other  of  the  crew,  and,  with  a single  grasp  of  his  horrid  jaws, 
either  terribly  mutilates  the  poor  fellow,  or,  it  may  be,  cuts 
his  body  fairly  in  two ! 

The  chase  often  lasts  a considerable  time.  So  long  as  the 
line  and  the  harpoon  hold,  the  animal  can  not  escape,  be- 
cause the  “ buoy”  always  marks  his  whereabout.  At  length, 
from  loss  of  blood  or  exhaustion,  Behemoth  succumbs  to  his 
pursuers. 

It  is  a remarkable  fact  that  almost  the  same  method  of 
securing  the  hippopotamus  as  that  just  described  was  adopt- 
ed by  the  ancient  Egyptians.* 

“ The  hippopotamus,”  says  Diodorus,  “ is  chased  by  many 
persons,  each  armed  with  iron  javelins.  As  soon  as  it  makes 
its  appearance  at  the  surface  of  the  water,  they  surround  it 
with  boats,  and,  closing  in  on  all  sides,  they  wound  it  with 
blades  furnished  with  iron  barbs,  and  having  hempen  ropes 
fastened  to  them,  in  order  that,  when  wounded,  it  may  be  let 
out  until  its  strength  fails  it  from  loss  of  blood.” 

The  many  drawings  relating  to  the  chase,  &c.,  of  the  hip- 
popotamus to  be  found  on  the  sculptures  and  monuments  of 
Thebes  would  seem  to  prove  that  the  ancient  Egyptians 
greatly  delighted  in  this  kind  of  sport.  One  of  these  rep- 
resentations is  shown  on  the  following  page,  and  has  been 
borrowed  from  that  valuable  work,  “The  Manners  and  Cus- 
toms of  the  Ancient  Egyptians,”  by  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson, 
who  thus  explains  the  very  interesting  illustration. 

“The  chasseur  is  here  in  the  act  of  throwing  the  spear  at 
the  hippopotamus, , which  he  has  already  wounded  with  three 
other  blades,  indicated  by  the  ropes  he  holds  in  his  left  hand ; 
and  having  pulled  the  animal  toward  the  surface  of  the  wa- 

* In  some  parts  of  ancient  Egypt  the  hippopotamus  was  worshiped. 
It  is  also  said  to  have  been  a representation  of  Typho  (in  connection 
with  the  crocodile)  and  Mars.  According  to  Plutarch,  it  “ was  reck- 
oned among  the  animals  emblematic  of  the  Evil  Being.” 


500 


EGYPTIANS  AND  HIPPOPOTAMUS. 


ter,  an  attendant  endeavors  to  throw  a noose  over  its  head 
as  he  strikes  it  for  the  fourth  time.  Behind  him  is  his  son 
holding  a fresh  spear  in  readiness ; and  in  order  that  there 
should  be  no  question  about  the  ropes  belonging  to  the  blades, 
the  fourth  is  seen  to  extend  from  his  hand  to  the  shaft  of  the 


spear  he  is  throwing.  The  upupa,  heron,  and  other  birds  are 
frightened  from  the  rushes  as  the  boat  approaches ; and  the 
fish,  with  a young  hippopotamus,  seen  at  the  bottom  of  the 
water,  are  intended  to  show  the  communication  of  the  fenny 
lake  with  the  Nile.” 

“ The  spear  they  used  on  these  occasions  was  evidently 
of  a different  construction  from  that  intended  for  ordinary 


THE  SPEAR  AND  REEL. 


501 


purposes,  and  was  furnished,  as  Diodorus  observes,  with  a 
rope  for  letting  out  the  wounded  animal,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  practiced  by  the  modern  Ethiopians;*  there  was 


sometimes  another  line  fastened  to  the  shaft,  and  passing 
over  a notch  at  its  upper  end,  which  was  probably  intended 
to  give  the  weapon  a great  impetus,  as  well 
as  to  retain  the  shaft  when  it  left  the 
blade.  The  rope  attached  to  the  blade  was 
wound  upon  a reel,  generally  carried  by 
some  of  the  attendants.  It  was  of  very 
simple  construction,  consisting  of  a half 
ring  of  metal,  by  which  it  was  held,  and  a 
bar  turning  on  it,  on  which  the  line  or 
string  was  wound.” 

Again : “ This  weapon,”  alluding  to  the  harpoon,  “ con- 
sisted of  a broad,  flat  blade,  furnished  with  a deep  tooth  or 


* Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson  informs  us  further  that  the  inhabitants  at 
Sennaar  still  follow  up  the  practice  of  their  ancestors,  and,  like  them, 
prefer  chasing  it  in  the  river  to  an  open  attack  on  shore. 


502 


LITTLE  DANGER  WHILE  ON  THE  RAFT. 


barb  at  the  side,  having  a strong  rope  of  considerable  length 
attached  to  its  upper  end,  and  running  over  the  notched  sum- 
mit of  a wooden  shaft,  which  was  inserted  into  the  head  or 
blade  like  a common  javelin.  It  was  thrown  in  the  same 
manner,  but,  on  striking,  the  shaft  fell,  and  the  iron  head 
alone  remained  in  the  body  of  the  animal,  which,  on  receiv- 
ing a wound,  plunged  into  deep  water,  the  rope  having  been 
immediately  let  out.  When  fatigued  by  exertion,  the  hip- 
popotamus was  dragged  to  the  boat,  from  which  it  again 
plunged,  and  the  same  was  repeated  till  it  became  perfectly 
exhausted,  frequently  receiving  additional  wounds,  and  being 
entangled  by  other  nooses,  which  the  attendants  held  in  read- 
iness as  it  was  brought  within  their  reach.” 

To  return : If  the  hippopotamus  hunt,  as  just  described 
by  me,  was  conducted  altogether  from  the  reed-raft,  one’s  per- 
sonal safety  would  be  little,  or  not  at  all,  endangered;  for, 
on  account  of  the  great  size,  buoyancy,  and  elasticity  of  the 
raft,  the  animal,  however  wickedly  inclined,  could  neither 
“ board”  nor  capsize  it.  But  when  one  pursues  him  in  a ca- 
noe— though  far  the  most  exciting  way — the  peril,  as  shown, 
is  considerable.  One  morning,  when  descending  the  Teoge, 
we  met  a party  of  hippopotami  hunters,  one  of  whose  canoes 
had  been  upset  by  one  of  those  animals,  whereby  the  life  of 
a man  was  sacrificed.  Indeed,  similar  mishaps  are  of  con- 
stant occurrence  on  that  river. 

Our  own  safety,  moreover,  was  considerably  jeopardized 
by  a hippopotamus.  One  afternoon,  about  an  hour  before 
sunset,  I sent  a canoe,  with  several  men,  in  advance,  to  look 
out  for  a bivouac  for  the  night,  and  to  collect  fuel.  They 
were  scarcely  out  of  sight  when  an  immense  hippopotamus, 
with  its  calf,  rushed  out  from  among  the  reeds,  where  she 
had  been  concealed,  and,  passing  under  our  raft,  almost  im- 
mediately afterward  made  her  appearance  on  the  surface  of 
the  water.  Upon  seeing  this,  I lost  no  time  in  firing,  but, 
though  to  all  appearance  mortally  wounded,  we  lost  sight 


FEROCITY  OF  THE  HIPPOPOTAMUS. 


503 


of  her  at  the  time.  A few  minutes  afterward,  however,  on 
coming  to  a bend  of  the  river,  we  fell  in  with  the  canoe  that 
had  been  sent  on,  bottom  uppermost,  and  found,  to  our  great 
consternation,  that  the  wounded  beast,  in  going  down  the 
stream,  had  caught  sight  of  the  canoe,  and,  instantly  attack- 
ing itj  had,  with  one  blow  of  her  head,  capsized  it.  The  men 
saved  themselves  by  swimming,  but  all  the  loose  articles  were 
either  lost  or  spoiled  by  the  water.  Fortunately  for  me,  how- 
ever, I had  taken  the  advice  of  the  Bay  eye  to  remove  the 
most  valuable  of  my  things,  such  as  books,  instruments,  &c., 
to  the  raft  previous  to  the  canoe  leaving. 

Innumerable  instances,  showing  the  ferocity  of  the  hippo- 
potamus, are  on  record.  “ Lieutenant  Vidal,”  says  Captain 
Owen,  in  his  Narrative  of  Voyages,  and  when  speaking  of 
the  River  Temby,  “ had  just  commenced  ascending  this  stream 
in  his  boat,  when  suddenly  a violent  shock  was  felt  from  un- 
derneath, and  in  another  moment  a monstrous  hippopotamus 
reared  itself  up  from  the  water,  and,  in  a most  ferocious  and 
menacing  attitude,  rushed,  open-mouthed,  at  the  boat,  and, 
with  one  grasp  of  its  tremendous  jaws,  seized  and  tore  seven 
planks  from  her  side ; the  creature  disappeared  for  a few 
seconds,  and  then  rose  again,  apparently  intending  to  renew 
the  attack,  but  was  fortunately  deterred  by  the  contents  of 
a musket  discharged  in  its  face.  The  boat  rapidly  filled,  but, 
as  she  was  not  more  than  an  oar’s  length  from  the  shore,  the 
crew  succeeded  in  reaching  it  before  she  sank.  The  keel,  in 
all  probability,  touched  the  back  of  the  animal,  which,  irri- 
tating him,  occasioned  the  furious  attack;  and  had  he  got 
his  upper  jaw  above  the  gunwale,  the  whole  broadside  must 
have  been  torn  out.  The  force  of  the  shock  from  beneath, 
previously  to  the  attack,  was  so  violent  that  her  stern  was 
almost  lifted  out  of  the  water,  when  the  midshipman  steer- 
ing was  thrown  overboard,  but,  fortunately,  rescued  before 
the  irritated  animal  could  seize  him.” 

In  justice,  however,  to  the  poor  hippopotamus,  who,  in 


504 


KILLED  BY  GUNS. 


these  parts,  has  already  earned  for  itself  a sufficiently  bad 
name  for  ferocity,  one  must  not  attribute  the  whole  of  the 
casualties  that  occur  on  the  Teoge  to  willful  attacks  on  t^ie 
part  of  the  animal;  for,  owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the 
stream,  it  doubtless,  at  times,  happens  that,  on  coming  to  the 
surface  to  breathe,  it  accidentally  encounters  a canoe,  and  in 
its  fright,  or,  it  may  be,  in  playful  frolic,  upsets  it. 

The  colonists,  and  others  who  are  possessed  of  guns,  most 
commonly  shoot  the  animal  from  the  shore ; and  this  is  not 
a matter  of  any  great  difficulty,  for  when  it  comes  to  the  sur- 
face, either  to  breathe  or  for  amusement,  “a  single  shot 
through,  or  under  the  ear,”  as  Captain  Harris  truly  says,  “is 
fatal  to  the  Behemoth.”  If  there  are  several  “gunners,” 
and  they  station  themselves  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  pool 
where  the  hippopotami  are  congregated  (in  which  case  the 
animals,  when  rising  to  the  surface,  invariably  come  within 
range  of  one  or  other  of  the  party),  great  slaughter  may  be 
committed. 

Should  the  hippopotamus  be  killed  outright,  it  usually 
sinks,  but  in  about  half  a day  reappears  at  the  surface  ; and, 
in  order  eventually  to  secure  the  carcass,  it  is  only  necessary 
to  keep  a sharp  look-out  in  the  stream  below. 

Shooting  the  hippopotamus  from  the  shore  is  attended 
with  but  little  danger.  Accidents,  however,  do  at  times 
occur. 

“ A native,”  says  Mr.  Moffat,  “ with  his  boy,  went  to  the 
river  to  hunt  sea-cows.  Seeing  one  at  a short  distance  below 
an  island,  the  man  passed  through  a narrow  stream  to  get 
nearer  to  the  object  of  his  pursuit.  He  fired,  but  missed, 
when  the  animal  immediately  made  for  the  island.  The  man, 
seeing  his  danger,  ran  to  cross  to  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river;  but,  before  reaching  it,  the  sea-cow  seized  him,  and 
literally  severed  his  body  in  two  with  his  monstrous  jaws. 

Various  devices  are  resorted  to  by  the  natives  of  Southern 
Africa  to  destroy  the  hippopotamus.  At  times  he  is  entrap- 


THE  DOWNFALL 


505 


% 


THE  DOWNFALL. 


Y 


506 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DOWNFALL. 


ped  in  pitfalls ; but  the  most  ingenious  plan,  and  which  will 
be  readily  understood  by  the  preceding  wood-cut,  is  by  means 
of  the  downfall,  which  the  natives  would  seem  to  practice 
with  considerable  success. 

A is  Behemoth ; B,  a downfall,  consisting  of  a log  of  wood ; 
C C,  stones  attached  to  the  downfall  to  increase  its  weight ; 
D,  the  harpoon  affixed  to  the  lower  end  of  the  downfall ; E, 
a tree,  or,  in  lieu  of  it,  an  artificial  support  of  about  twenty- 
five  feet  in  height ; F F,  a line  attached  to  the  downfall, 
which,  after  having  been  passed  over  a branch  of  the  tree  or 
artificial  support,  crosses  horizontally  the  pathway  that  the 
hippopotamus  is  in  the  habit  of  frequenting  during  his  noc- 
turnal rambles.  When  the  animal  (which,  from  the  short- 
ness of  his  legs,  lifts  his  feet  but  little  from  the  ground)  comes 
in  contact  with  the  line,  secured  on  either  side  of  the  path 
by  a small  peg,  it  at  once  snaps,  or  is  disengaged  by  means 
of  a trigger.  The  liberated  downfall  instantly  descends,  and 
the  harpoon  is  driven  deep  into  the  back  of  the  beast,  who, 
wounded  and  bloody,  rushes  with  pain  and  fury  to  the  near- 
est water,  where  he  shortly  dies.  His  death  is  sometimes 
hastened  by  the  iron  being  poisoned. 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

Return  to  the  Lake.— The  Author  starts  for  Namaqua-land  to  procure 
Wagons. — Night  Adventure  with  a Lion. — Death  of  the  Beast. — 
Sufferings  of  the  Author. 

After  about  a month’s  absence,  I returned  in  safety  to 
the  Lake,  and  was  delighted  to  find  that  affairs  were  going 
on  prosperously  at  my  camp.  My  men,  however,  complain- 
ed much  of  the  begging  and  pilfering  of  the  natives.  They 
had  also  been  greatly  annoyed  by  Lecholetebe,  who  was  one 
of  the  first  persons  I encountered  on  my  arrival.  I had  long 
been  puzzling  my  brains  how  I could  most  effectually  pay  off 


CUNNING  OF  LECHOLETEBE RETURN  TO  NAMAQUA-LAND.  507 

the  chief  for  his  treachery,  and  had  resolved  to  assume  an 
angry  and  dissatisfied  air;  but  a glance  at  his  smooth,  sly, 
smiling  face  was  sufficient  to  mollify  every  feeling  of  resent- 
ment ; and  when,  with  the  most  innocent  look,  he  inquired 
if  I had  seen  Libebe,  and  if  I felt  satisfied  with  the  trip  in 
general,  my  anger  was  turned  into  mirth,  and  I burst  into  a 
hearty  laugh.  This  was  all  my  cunning  friend  wanted  : he 
seemed  like  one  resting  completely  on  a profound  sense  of  his 
own  merits,  and  waiting  to  receive  the  thanks  and  praises 
which  he  felt  to  be  his  due. 

When  stopped  so  unexpectedly  in  my  exploring  career  by 
the  artifices  of  Lecholetebe,  I made  up  my  mind  to  return 
forthwith  to  the  Cape,  partly  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a 
fresh  outfit,  and  partly  to  procure  boats  suitable  to  navigate 
the  Ngami  and  its  water-sheds,  and  then  return  to  the  Lake 
to  follow  up  my  discoveries.  But  it  was  not  to  be. 

As  the  reader  will  probably  remember,  I reached  the 
Ngami  by  means  of  pack-and-ride  oxen ; but  I had  found 
this  mode  of  traveling  so  exceedingly  inconvenient  that  I al- 
most dreaded  a renewal  of  it.  Moreover,  my  collection  of 
ivory,  specimens  of  natural  history,  curiosities,  &c.,  had  by 
this  time  so  increased  that  I found  my  few  remaining  half- 
broken-in  cattle  altogether  inadequate  to  the  task  of  convey- 
ing me  and  my  stores  to  the  Cape.  A wagon  had  become 
absolutely  necessary,  and  the  only  possible  way  of  obtaining 
one  was  to  return  to  Namaqua-land,  where,  should  my  man 
Eyebrecht  not  have  such  a vehicle  at  my  disposal,  I was  in 
hope  of  being  able  *to  borrow  one  from  the  natives.  To  in- 
sure dispatch,  although  I stood  sadly  in  need  of  rest  and 
quiet,  I determined  on  undertaking  the  journey. 

After  about  a week’s  stay  at  Batoana-town,  I set  out  for 
Namaqua-land  on  the  10th  of  September,  accompanied  by 
only  one  man,  leaving  Timbo  in  charge  of  the  camp  in  my 
absence. 

Before  X returned  to  the  Lake,  and  was  fairly  on  my  way 


508 


A NIGHT  ADVENTUKE  WITH  A LION. 


home,  four  months  had  elapsed ; but,  though  this  portion  of 
my  travels  was  not  devoid  of  interest,  the  volume  has  already 
swelled  to  such  a bulk  that  I must  content  myself  with  re- 
lating merely  one  striking  incident  that  befell  me,  and  a few 
general  remarks. 

Journeying  in  a very  lonely  part  of  the  country,  and  only 
accompanied  by  a single  native,  I arrived  one  day  at  a fount- 
ain, situated  in  a defile  between  some  craggy  rocks.  The 
water  issued  from  different  parts  among  these  cliffs,  forming 
little  pools  here  and  there ; and  though  the  place  was  difficult 
of  access,  elephants  and  other  large  game  were  in  the  habit 
of  flocking  to  the  water  nightly.  As  the  stony  nature  of 
the  ground  afforded  excellent  “ ambuscades,”  and  being  much 
in  want  of  provision,  I determined  to  watch  the  pools  in 
question  for  a night  or  two. 

The  first  night  was  a failure,  but  in  the  second  I succeed- 
ed in  killing  a white  rhinoceros.  After  this,  though  I watch- 
ed long  and  well,  nothing  appeared,  and  at  last  sleep  overtook 
me.  How  long  I slumbered  I know  not ; but  on  a sudden  I 
thought,  or  dreamed,  that  I was  in  danger.  From  much 
night-watching,  my  hearing  and  sight  had  gradually  acquired 
such  an  acuteness  that  even  in  sleep  I was  able  to  retain  a 
certain  consciousness  of  what  was  passing  around  me,  and 
it  is  probable  that  I was  indebted  to  this  remarkable  faculty 
for  the  preservation  of  my  life  on  the  present  occasion.  At 
first  I could  not  divest  myself  of  fear,  and  for  a while  my 
senses  were  too  confused  to  enable  me  to  form  any  accurate 
notion  of  the  imagined  danger.  Gradually,  however,  con- 
sciousness returned,  and  I could  distinctly  hear  the  breathing 
of  an  animal  close  to  my  face,  accompanied  by  a purr  like 
that  of  a cat.  I knew  that  only  one  animal  existed  in  these 
parts  capable  of  producing  the  sound,  and  at  once  I came  to 
the  conclusion  that  a lion  was  actually  stooping  over  me. 

If  a man  had  ever  cause  for  dread,  I think  I certainly  had 
on  this  occasion.  I became  seriously  alarmed.  My  first  im- 


DEATH  OF  THE  BEAST TRYING  SITUATION.  509 

pulse  was  to  get  hold  of  my  gun,  which  was  lying  ready 
cocked  immediately  before  me,  and  the  next  to  raise  myself 
partially  from  my  reclining  position.  In  doing  so,  I made 
as  little  noise  as  possible;  but,  slight  though  it  might  be,  it 
was  sufficient  to  attract  the  notice  of  the  beast,  who  uttered 
a gruff  kind  of  growl,  too  well  known  to  be  misunderstood. 
Following  with  my  eyes  the  direction  of  the  sound,  I endeav- 
ored to  discover  the  lion,  but  could  only  make  out  a large 
dark  mass  looming  through  the  night-mist.  Scarcely  know- 
ing what  I was  about,  I instinctively  leveled  my  gun  at  the 
beast.  My  finger  was  on  the  trigger;  for  a moment  I hesi- 
tated ; but,  by  a sudden  impulse,  pulled  it,  and  the  next  in- 
stant the  surrounding  rocks  rang  with  the  report,  followed  by 
roarings  from  the  beast,  as  if  in  the  agonies  of  death.  Well 
knowing  what  a wounded  lion  is  capable  of,  and  how  utter- 
ly helpless  I was,  I regretted  my  rashness.  The  wounded 
beast,  who  at  times  seemed  to  be  within  a few  paces  of  the 
“skarm,”  and  at  others  at  some  little  distance,  was  rolling 
on  the  ground,  and  tearing  it  up,  in  convulsive  agonies.  How 
long  this  struggle  between  life  and  death  lasted  is  hard  to 
say,  but  to  me  it  appeared  an  age.  Gradually,  however,  and 
to  my  great  relief,  his  roars  and  moans  subsided,  and  after  a 
while  ceased  altogether. 

Dawn  at  length  appeared ; but  it  was  not  until  after  some 
time,  and  then  with  much  caution,  that  I ventured  to  ascer- 
tain the  fate  of  the  lion,  whom,  to  my  great  satisfaction,  I found 
dead  within  fifty  yards  of  my  place  of  concealment.  The 
beast  was  of  an  average  size,  but,  unfortunately,  the  hygenas 
and  jackals  had  played  sad  havoc  with  his  skin. 

Some  time  previously,  my  men,  Eyebrecht  and  Klaas  Zaal, 
had  also  shot  a lion  in  this  identical  spot ; but,  owing  to  his 
fearful  growls  while  dying,  they  thought  it  best  to  decamp  at 
once  without  ascertaining  his  fate. 

During  the  four  months  that  I was  absent  from  my  men, 
I traveled,  either  alone  or  accompanied  by  a single  native, 


510  , SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  AUTHOR. 

sometimes  on  foot,  and  at  others  on  horseback  or  ox-back, 
over  upward  of  a thousand  miles  of  country,  parts  of  it  emu- 
lating the  Sahara  in  scarcity  of  water  and  general  inhospi- 
tality. Tongue  is  too  feeble  to  express  what  I suffered  at 
times.  To  say  nothing  of  narrow  escapes  from  lions  and 
other  dangerous  beasts,  I was  constantly  enduring  the  crav- 
ings of  hunger  and  the  agonies  of  thirst.  Occasionally  I was 
as  much  as  two  days  without  tasting  food;  and  it  not  un- 
frequently  happened  that  in  the  course  of  the  twenty-four 
hours  I could  only  once  or  twice  moisten  my  parched  lips. 
Sometimes  I was  so  overcome  by  these  causes,  coupled  with 
bodily  fatigue,  that  I fainted.  Once  both  my  steed  and  my- 
self (as  seen  in  the  sketch  below)  dropped  down  in  the  midst 
of  a sand-plain,  where  we  remained  a long  time  in  a state 


AUTHOR  AND  STEED  I5ROKEN  DOWN. 


bordering  on  unconsciousness,  and  exposed  to  all  the  injuri- 
ous effects  of  a tropical  sun.  I would  at  times  pursue  my 


SIGNAL  STATION. 


511 


course  with  a pained  and  listless  step,  scarcely  knowing  what 
I was  about,  and  staggering  like  a drunken  man.  “ This,” 
says  Captain  Messum,  when  speaking  of  the  hardships  he  had 
undergone  in  a short  tour  into  the  interior  of  the  West  Coast, 
“was  the  pleasure  of  traveling  in  Africa.  It  requires  the 
endurance  of  a camel  and  the  courage  of  a lion.” 


SIGNAL  STATION  AT  0 APE-TOWN, 


% 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


A. 

Aamhoup,  the,  a periodical  river,  303; 
splendid  mirage,  at,  ib. 

Abeghan,  a watering-place,  388 ; the  Au- 
thor shoots  a large  bull-elephant  there, 
891. 

Afrika,  Jonathan,  349  ; his  adventure 
with  a lion,  350. 

Allen,  John,  71 ; enters  Mr.  Galton’s  serv- 
ice, ib. ; his  adventure  on  the  banks  of 
the  Swakop,  264 ; falls  sick  of  a fever, 
301 ; emigrates  with  Hans  to  Australia, 
334. 

Amral,  a Namaqua  chieftain,  319. 

Amulets,  great  faith  of  the  South  African 
natives  in,  179,  319. 

Ana,  the,  a species  of  acacia,  42,  58;  its 
fruit  nutritious  food  for  cattle,  ib. 

Animals,  domestic,  of  the  Ovambo,  201 ; 
of  the  Damaras,  228 ; of  the  Namaquas, 
324;  of  the  Bechuanas,  454;  of  the 
Bayeye,  480. 

Antelopes,  Author  stalking,  in  company 
with  lions,  210. 

Archery,  the  Ovambo  inferior  to  the  Da- 
maras in,  184. 

Articles  of  barter  of  the  Ovambo,  175. 

B. 

Baboon  Fountain,  172. 

Bahurutsi,  the  natives  at  Kuruman  send 
embassadors  to  a rain-maker  residing 
among  the,  442. 

Bain,  Mr. , the  distinguished  South  Afri- 
can geologist,  333. 

Bam,  Mr.,  slight  results  of  his  missiona- 
ry efforts  among  the  Namaquas,  42  ; his 
wonderful  escape  from  a rhinoceros, 
49,  50. 

Baobob-tree,  the,  415,  426. 

Barmen,  its  aspect  and  situation,  106 ; ill 
suited  for  an  encampment,  125 ; return 
to,  214 ; second  departure  from,  241. 

Basutos,  the  famous  king  of  the,  438. 

Batoana,  the,  a Bechuana  tribe,  413; 
their  appearance  and  manners,  ib.  ; 
their  government,  437 ; their  Pichos, 
ib. 

Bayeye,  the,  expert  fishermen,  455. 

Beads,  in  request  with  the  South  African 
tribes,  202;  kinds  most  esteemed,  ib ., 
323,  455. 

Bean,  a species  of  white,  used  as  an  anti- 
dote for  snake-bites,  296;  the  Author 
falls  sick  from  eating  a bean-looking 
fruit,  354. 

Y 


Bears,  affecting  story  of  two,  20. 

Bechuanas,  the,  their  language,  439 ; first 
acquaintance  of  Europeans  with,  ib. ; 
their  want  of  religious  ideas,  440 ; wiz- 
ards numerous  among,  441  ; hold  a 
council  at  Kuruman  as  to  the  best 
means  of  removing  a severe  drought, 
442 ; practice  circumcision,  448 ; festi- 
vals attending  the  age  of  puberty,  ib. ; 
funeral  ceremonies,  ib. ; vindictiveness, 
450 ; theft  a prevailing  vice  among,  ib. ; 
attire,  452 ; great  snuff-takers,  453. 

Beer,  193,  480. 

Bees,  wild,  frequently  make  their  nests 
in  the  giant  dwellings  of  the  termites, 
137 ; their  disposition  unusually  quiet 
and  forbearing,  ib. 

Berry,  delicious,  145. 

Bethany,  a Rhenish  missionary  station, 
304. 

Bill,  a Damara  lad  in  the  Author’s  serv- 
ice, loses  himself  in  the  bush,  211. 

Blacksmiths,  203. 

Boers,  the,  on  the  Trans-vaal  River,  27 ; 
Sir  Harry  Smith’s  opinion  of,  28;  an 
uncivil  one,  328. 

Bonfield,  George,  886;  spoils  the  Au- 
thor’ s watch,  390. 

Boom-slang,  the  (or  tree-snake),  294. 

Borele,  a species  of  rhinoceros,  371,  372. 

Buffaloes,  following  the  tracks  of,  462; 
proof  against  bullets,  464. 

Buphaga  Africana,  the  sentinel  bird,  212. 

Bushmen,  a few  met  with  near  Omuve- 
reoom,  158;  Lake  Omanbond&,  called 
Saresab  in  their  language,  ib. ; a few 
met  with  near  Baboon  Fountain,  172 ; 
and  at  Otjikoto,  182 ; legend  of  a Bush- 
woman  changing  herself  into  a lion, 
320 ; some  met  with  returning  from 
Lake  Ngami,  892 ; their  manner  of 
hunting  the  koodoo,  467. 

Bush-ticks,  deadly  effects  of  the  bite  of, 
36. 

Bustard,  the  large,  very  abundant  at 
Schmelen’s  Hope,  135 ; the  flesh  good 
eating,  136. 

Buxton  Fountain,  origin  of  its  name,  105. 
C. 

Caffre-corn,  the,  188,  482. 

Camelopards,  a troop  of  them  seen  near 
Omanbond^,  166;  one  shot,  ib. 

Canoe,  description  of  a Bayeye,  456. 

Cape  Cross,  a vessel  supposed  to  be  wreck- 
ed at,  129,  139. 

2 


514 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Cape-Town,  24;  varieties  of  the  human 
race  encountered  in  its  streets,  ib. ; sen- 
sation caused  by  the  Author’s  appear- 
ance in,  329. 

Caracal,  the,  135;  its  fur  warm  and  hand- 
some, ib. ; supposed  medicinal  virtues 
of  the  skin,  ib. 

Caravan,  178  ; caravan  route,  182. 

Chikor’onkombd,  chief  of  an  Ovambo 
trading  caravan,  175;  his  residence, 
188 ; desertion  of,  206. 

Christmas  in  the  desert,  119. 

Cobra  di  capella,  the,  common  in  the 
Cape  Colony,  293 ; a remarkable  escape 
from  one,  ib. 

Cockatrice,  the,  Damara’s  account  of,  292. 

Cold  weather,  154,  185,  300. 

Comet,  the  Author  observes  a remarka- 
ble, 354. 

Cornelius,  chief  of  a powerful  tribe  of 
Namaquas,  280. 

Cow,  the  Damara,  309. 

Cunene,  a river  of  Africa,  its  discovery 
and  subsequent  mysterious  disappear- 
ance, 204 ; the  Ovambo  often  extend 
their  trading  excursions  to,  205;  at- 
tempt of  Mr.  Galton’s  party  to  visit  it 
frustrated,  206;  the  Ovambo1  s account 
of,  430. 

D. 

Dacre’s  pulpit,  333. 

Damara-land  only  partially  inhabited, 
217 ; the  seasons  there  the  reverse  of 
those  in  Europe,  ib. ; reptiles  numer- 
ous in,  298. 

Damaras,  the,  beautifully  formed,  62; 
not  strong,  ib. ; complexion,  ib. ; sym- 
metrical shape  of  the  women,  64 ; cloth- 
ing, ib. ; ornaments,  weapons,  65 ; di- 
vided into  two  large  tribes,  66 ; carry 
firebrands  at  night,  94 ; one  struck 
dead  by  lightning,  108 ; believe  that  all 
men  of  a light  complexion  are  their  en- 
emies, 111 ; entirely  a pastoral  people, 
121 ; their  notions  respecting  property 
in  land,  ib.  ; cruelly  treated  by  the  Na- 
maquas, 127 ; the  flesh  of  the  leopard, 
hysena,  and  other  beasts  of  prey  eaten 
by  the  poor,  135;  a Damara’s  opinion 
of  his  countrymen,  143 ; addicted  to 
telling  falsehoods,  144;  their  method 
of  cooking  and  eating,  151 ; villages, 

■ 159 ; their  immorality,  177 ; eight  Da- 
mara women  surprised  and  put  to  death 
by  Bushmen,  208;  general  reflections 
on,  214,  215;  whence  they  came,  215; 
their  conquests,  ib. ; attacked  by  the 
Namaquas,  216;  their  own  ideas  re- 
specting their  origin,  218;  their  chief 
deity,  ib. ; their  tribes,  ib. ; have  great 
faith  in  witchcraft,  219 ; a fire  always 
kept  burning  before  the  hut  of  their 
chief,  220;  curious  customs  respecting 
food  among  the,  221 ; the  women  mar- 
ry at  much  the  same  age  as  those  in 
Europe,  ib. ; customs  on  the  occasion 
of  a girl’s  betrothal,  ib.  ; polygamy 


practiced  among,  222 ; domestic  habits, 
ib. ; customs  respecting  the  naming  of 
children,  ib. ; bury  their  dead,  223  ; 
ceremonies  on  the  death  of  one  of  the 
tribe,  ib. ; the  law  of  succession  among, 
222,  225 ; ceremonies  on  the  accession 
of  a new  chief,  225 ; fever  and  ophthal- 
mia their  prevailing  maladies,  226 ; 
milk  their  staple  food,  227 ; fond  of 
music  and  dancing,  ib. ; power  of  the 
chief,  ib. ; rudiments  of  science  among, 
228;  value  their  cattle  next  to  their 
women,  309. 

Dance,  a,  at  Nangoro’s  residence,  193. 

Daviep,  arrival  at,  52 ; much  frequented 
by  lions,  ib. 

Dogs,  miserable  plight  of  the  Namaqua, 
278. 

Duikers,  the  (cormorants  and  shags), 
mode  in  which  they  obtain  their  food, 
32. 

E. 

Eggs,  the,  of  the  ostrich,  60;  of  the 
Guinea-fowl,  92,  136. 

Eikhams,  the  residence  of  Jonker  Afri- 
kaner, 130 ; twilight  at,  230;  abundant- 
ly supplied  with  water,  ib. ; hot  spring 
in  the  neighborhood  of,  ib. ; history  of 
the  mission  at,  231;  terrific  thunder- 
storm at,  277. 

Elands,  spirited  chase  after,  366. 

Elephants,  tracks  of,  143 ; breed  near  to 
Omuvereoom,  158 ; combat  between 
rhinoceros  and,  164 ; unsuccessful  hunt 
of,  170;  Hans  and  JPhillippus  kill  one, 
175;  the  Author  shoots  a large  bull- 
elephant,  391 ; a midnight  meeting  with 
a troop  of,  394 ; adventure  with  a herd 
of  female  elephants  at  Kobis,  400;  a 
midnight  spectacle  of  a magnificent 
troop  of,  405. 

Elephant  Fountain,  arrival  at,  233 ; for- 
merly a Wesleyan  missionary  station, 
ib.;  chiefly  inhabited  by  Hill-Dama- 
ras,  ib. ; nature  of  the  country  east- 
ward of,  ib. ; return  to,  236 ; abundance 
of  game  in  its  neighborhood,  237. 

Elephant  Kloof,  the  Author  shoots  a 
magnificent  giraffe  at,  357. 

Erongo,  a mountain  famous  for  its  pe- 
culiar formation,  and  as  a stronghold 
of  the  Hill-Damaras,  114;  about  three 
thousand  feet  in  height  above  the  level 
of  the  plain,  120. 

Etosha,  a sterile  plain,  156;  at  times  in- 
undated, ib. 

Euphorbia  Candelabrum,  use  made  of  its 
poison  by  the  Ovaherero  and  the  Hill- 
Damaras,  91 ; fatal  to  the  white  rhino- 
ceros, but  harmless  to  the  black  species, 
ib. ; abundant  at  Okamabuti,  176. 

Eyebrecht,  Mr.,  Jonker’ s right-hand  man, 
231.  v . % 

F. 

Fever,  the  Author  attacked  by,  300. 

Fig-tree,  a gigantic  one  near  Otjironjuba 
fountain,  156. 


GENERAL  INDEX, 


515 


Fire,  the  Author  nearly  destroyed  by, 
185. 

“ Fiseaal,”  the,  curious  belief  of  the  Cape  . 
people  respecting,  78. 

Fish,  182. 

Fly,  wasp-like,  57 ; the  Author  severely 
stung  by  one,  ib. 

Flying-Fish,  the,  a schooner,  338. 

Foam,  the,  a small  schooner  chartered  by 
Mr.  Galton  for  the  voyage  to  Walfisch 
Bay,  28,  29. 

Fowl,  domestic,  201,  482. 

G. 

Gabriel,  his  violent  disposition,  79 ; dis- 
missed at  Barmen,  125 ; marks  his  sub- 
sequent career  with  violence  and  inso- 
lence, 140. 

Galton,  Mr.,  starts  for  the  Erongo  Mount- 
ain, 114 ; obtains  information  from 
Jonker,  139  ; departs  for  England,  247. 

Gemsbok,  the,  first  sight  of,  57 ; death  of 
one,  123 ; the  Damaras  feast  on  it,  124 ; 
description  of,  273. 

Geological  characteristics  of  Great  Na- 
maqua-land,  813. 

Ghanze,  arrival  at,  367 ; description  of, 
368 ; departure  from,  386. 

Giraffe,  the,  one  killed,  59 ; their  marrow 
good  eating,  ib. ; troop  of,  92 ; peculiar 
motion  of,  93;  troop  of,  154;  a splen- 
did one  pulled  down  by  lions,  396. 

Giraffe-thorn,  the,  42. 

Gnoo,  a,  chase  after  and  death  of,  113 ; 
stalking  them  in  company  with  lions, 
210. 

Grain,  kind  of,  grown  among  the  Ovam- 
bo,  188 ; the  storing  of,  201. 

Griquas,  the  Author  meets  with  a party 
of,  847 ; one  of  them  engaged  as  inter- 
preter, ib. ; information  derived  from, 
429,  430;  severe  losses  sustained  by  a 
party  of,  469. 

Grosbeak,  the  social,  104. 

Guinea-fowls,  an  immense  number  at 
Onanis,  92 ; the  flesh  of  the  young  ten- 
der and  well  flavored,  ib. ; the  best 
mode  of  shooting  them,  ib. ; their  eggs 
excellent,  136. 

Guitar,  193. 

H. 

Hahn,  Mr.,  a missionary  of  the  Rhenish 
Society,  settled  among  the  Damaras, 
56 ; a Russian  by  birth,  108 ; his  mis- 
sionary labors,  109 ; his  coadjutors,  ib. ; 
his  fruitless  efforts  to  bring  about  a rec- 
onciliation between  the  Damaras  and 
the  Nam  aquas,  127. 

Hans  (Larsen),  68 ; a fine  specimen  of  the 
true  Northman,  69 ; his  great  strength, 
ib.  ; an  indefatigable  sportsman,  70 ; 
enters  Mr.  Galton1  s service,  ib. ; his 
character  for  being  a good  woodsman 
damaged,  154;  meets  with  a little  ad- 
venture, 241 ; enters  into  partnership 
with  the  Author,  265 ; goes  into  Dama- 
ra-land  to  trade  with  the  natives,  269; 


has  an  adventure  with  the  Damaras, 
ib. ; emigrates  to  Australia,  334. 

Hare,  the  Namaqua  superstition  respect- 
ing, 317. 

Hareld,  the  (Arctic  duck),  mode  in  which 
it  obtains  its  food,  32. 

Heat,  effects  of  excessive,  51, 101. 

Heitjeebib,  a deity  worshiped  by  the  Na- 
maquas,  316. 

Hill-Damaras,  the,  60 ; a kraal  of,  at  Ona- 
nis, 89 ; cultivate  dacka  or  hemp  as  a 
substitute  for  tobacco,  ib.  ; unusual 
manner  in  which  they  smoke,  ib. ; de- 
scription of  the  pipe  they  use,  89,  90; 
a kraal  of,  at  the  foot  of  Omuvereoom, 
157 ; probably  the  aborigines  of  Dama- 
ra-land,  215. 

Hippopotamus,  the,  the  actions  and  figure 
of,  mimicked  by  a Damara,  159 ; visits 
Omanbond5,  163  ; one  takes  up  his 
abode  at  Schmelen’s  Hope,  ib. ; abound 
on  the  northern  side  of  Lake  Ngami, 
434 ; its  supposed  identity  with  the  Be- 
hemoth of  Scripture,  487 ; where  found, 
ib. ; two  species  in  Africa,  488 ; descrip- 
tion of,  ib.  ; its  food,  490  ; ravages 
caused  by,  ib.  ; possessed  of  a good 
memory,  492  ; nocturnal  excursions, 
493 ; easily  domesticated,  ib. ; kept  in 
captivity  by  the  ancient  Romans,  ib. ; 
details  respecting  those  in  the  Zoolog- 
ical Society’s  Gardens  in  the  Regent’s 
Park,  London,  494;  its  most  valuable 
parts,  ib. ; manner  in  which  the  Bayeye 
harpoon,  495 ; drawings  on  the  monu- 
ments and  sculptures  of  Thebes  relat- 
ing to  the  chase  of,  499 ; the  Author’s 
safety  jeopardized  by  one,  502;  in- 
stances of  the  ferocity  of,  503 ; various 
devices  for  destroying,  504. 

History  of  Damara-land,  215. 

Hogs,  found  among  the  Ovambo,  189. 

Honey,  wild,  poisonous,  91. 

Horse,  the  Cape  Colony,  326 ; instance  of 
the  extraordinary  endurance  of,  327. 

Horse-sickness,  the,  67 ; three  mules  and 
one  horse  perish  of,  ib. ; its  cause  un- 
known, ib. ; usually  makes  its  appear- 
ance in  the  months  of  November  and 
December,  68 ; common  throughout  va- 
rious parts  of  Southern  Africa,  68. 

Hottentots,  a small  kraal  of,  39 ; Fred- 
erick, their  chieftain,  and  the  alarum, 
ib. ; of  Great  Namaqua-land,  314. 

' Ilountop  River,  the,  Author’s  party  en- 
camps near,  801 ; game  abundant  in 
the  neighborhood  of,  ib. ; an  interest- 
ing atmospheric  phenomenon  at,  302. 

Houses,  the  Ovambo,  201 ; the  Damara, 

, 222;  the  Namaqua,  315;  the  Bayeye, 

’ 479. 

Hyaena,  the,  123 ; called  wolf  by  the  col- 

. onists,  181 ; mode  of  setting  spring- 

| guns  for,  132;  startling  appearance  of 
a spotted,  369. 

; la  Kabaka,  the,  a mountain,  144,  155, 


516 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Ice,  209,  300. 

Implements  of  husbandry,  58,  104,  202. 

Ivory,  202. 

J. 

Jackal,  a mischievous,  364. 

Jonker  Afrikaner,  108, 112 ; a letter  from, 
125 ; his  quarrel  with  Kahichene,  127 ; 
an  instance  of  his  cruelty,  129 ; Mr. 
Galton  sets  out  to  visit,  130 ; relations 
between  him  and  William  Zwartbooi, 
188 ; sends  an  express  to  Zwartbooi  for 
his  horses,  ib.  ; promises  to  live  in 
peace  and  amity  with  the  Damaras,  ib. ; 
his  first  victories  over  the  Damaras, 
216  ; whence  he  came,  ib. ; gifts  pre- 
sented by  Mr.  Galton  to,  231 ; the  Au- 
thor takes  his  portrait,  ib. ; loses  the 
greater  part  of  his  cattle,  240 ; his  werft 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Eikhams,  278; 
engaged  in  a cattle-lifting  foray,  287  ; 
the  Author  upbraids  him  for  his  depre- 
dations, 289 ; his  defense,  ib. 

Justice,  summary,  149. 

K. 

Kachamaha,  a powerful  Damara  chief, 
287 ; the  Author’s  visit  to,  ib. 

Kahichene,  a Damara  chieftain,  122 ; im- 
mense number  of  oxen  and  sheep  pos- 
sessed by,  ib. ; his  quarrel  with  Jonker 
Afrikaner,  127 ; meets  the  Author’s 
party  at  Kotjiamkombe,  147 ; his  ap- 
pearance and  manners,  ib. ; at  variance 
with  a tribe  of  Damaras  under  the  rule 
of  Omugunde,  149 ; his  summary  treat- 
ment of  thieves,  ib. ; his  kraal,  ib. ; his 
death,  152. 

Kaiaob,  the  Namaqua  witch-doctor,  318. 

Kamapyu,  a half-caste  native  lad,  344. 

Kameel-doom,  the,  104;  hardness  of  its 
wood,  ib.  ; the  social  grosbeak  con- 
structs its  nest  in  the  branches  of,  ib. ; 
groups  of,  163. 

Klaas  Zaal,  engaged  as  a wagon-driver, 
354. 

Kleinschmidt,  Mr.,  139,  286. 

Kobis,  good  shooting  at,  398 ; adventure 
with  a black  rhinoceros  there,  399 ; 
with  a white  one,  400  ; and  with  a herd 
of  female  elephants,  ib.  ; departure 
from,  412. 

Kolbe,  Mr.,  109,  127,  138. 

Komaggas,  a Rhenish  missionary  station, 
325. 

Konyati,  the,  a mountain,  143. 

Koodoo,  the,  a young  one  caught  and 
reared,  130 ; its  tragic  end,  131 ; de- 
scription of,  465;  the  Bushmen’s  man- 
ner of  hunting,  467. 

Kotjiamkombe,  a splendid  vley,  146. 

Kuisip,  the,  a periodical  stream,  41 ; swol- 
len by  heavy  rains,  264. 

L. 

Lambert,  eldest  son  of  Amral,  a Namaqua 
chief,  355. 

Larsen  ( vide  Hans). 


Larvae,  locust,  sudden  appearance  of  at 
Schmelen’s  Hope,  140;  conjecture  re- 
specting, ib. ; devoured  by  storks,  ib. 

Leche,  the,  a species  of  antelope,  431 ; the 
Author  shoots  one,  458. 

Lecholetebe,  chief  of  the  Batoanas,  the 
Author  sends  presents  to,  393 ; Timbo’s 
interview  with,  402 ; the  Author  visits, 
418 ; his  manner  of  receiving  presents, 
420 ; his  greediness,  421 ; his  prompt 
mode  of  punishing  his  subjects,  422. 

Leopard,  the,  erroneously  called  tiger  by 
the  Dutch,  133 ; one  seizes  and  wounds 
a favorite  dog,  134 ; pursued  and  slain, 
134. 

Libebe,  the  capital  of  the  Bavicko,  situ- 
ated considerably  to  the  north  of  Lake 
Ngami,  422;  the  Author  determines  to 
visit,  423 ; the  centre  of  a great  inland 
trade,  484 ; visited  by  the  Mambari,  ib. 

Lightning,  a man  killed  by,  108. 

Lion,  the,  a daring  and  destructive  one 
slain  by  Messrs.  Galton  and  Bam,  41 ; 
a horse  and  mule  killed  by  lions,  53; 
panic  caused  by  a troop  of  lions,  66,  67 ; 
two  met  with  on  the  banks  of  the  Swa- 
kop,  93  ; narrow  escape  from,  ib. ; mid- 
night interview  with  a,  97 ; one  de- 
prived of  his  prey,  98;  one  mistaken 
for  a zebra,  112 ; one  kills  a goat,  114 ; 
pursued  and  slain,  118;  the  travelers 
serenaded  by  a whole  troop  of,  123 ; 
Mr.  Galton  confronted  by  one,  164  ; 
stalking  antelopes  in  company  with, 
210 ; very  numerous  and  daring  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Zwart  Nosop,  238 ; ad- 
venture with  one  at  night,  ib. ; story  of 
the  seizure  of  lion  cubs,  243 ; troops  of 
them  in  the  neighborhood  of  Tineas 
and  Onanis,  267 ; a lion  devours  a lion- 
ess, 302 ; a fair  shot  at  one,  342 ; Old 
Piet’s  adventures  with,  343;  one  finds 
his  way  into  the  church  at  Richterfeldt, 
344 ; instances  of  their  boldness,  350 ; 
unexpected  meeting  with  five,  396 ; se- 
rious night  adventure  with  one,  508. 

Locust,  the,  larvae  of,  281  ; immense 
masses  of,  ib. ; their  arrival  a cause  of 
rejoicing  to  the  Bushmen,  283;  how 
prepared  as  food,  284. 

Locust-bird,  the  ( Spring-haan  vogel ),  284. 

Louis,  a Mozambique  liberated  slave,  337. 

M. 

Mackintosh  punt,  160. 

Malays,  the,  religion  and  mode  of  life  of, 
24,  25. 

Mambari,  the,  an  African  tribe,  484. 

Matsanyana,  the,  an  African  tribe  resid- 
ing north  of  the  Bayeye,  484. 

Mimosa,  the  black-stemmed,  found  in  the 
periodical  water-courses,  90. 

Mirage,  a remarkable,  33,  303. 

Missionaries,  their  exertions  unavailing 
in  Namaqua-land,  42;  the  natives  very 
reserved  on  their  first  appearance  in 
Damara  - land,  109  ; prospect  of  their 
success  at  Schmelen’s  Hope  disappoint- 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


517 


ed,  12T ; arrival  of  the  missionary  ship, 
246;  decline  of  the  mission  at  Reho- 
both,  286  ; the  Rhenish  missionary  sta- 
tion at  Bethany,  304;  blamed  by  the 
Bahurusti  rain-maker  as  the  cause  of  a 
severe  drought,  447. 

Monoohoo,  a species  of  rhinoceros,  372. 

Mortar,  John,  irritability  his  only  fault, 
80 ; a famous  teller  of  stories,  81 ; his 
disappointment  in  the  matter  of  soap 
manufacture,  237. 

Mosheshe,  the  famous  Basuto  king,  438. 

Mukuru-Mukovanja,  a large  river,  204; 
the  Ovambos’  account  of,  430. 

Mules,  the,  one  becomes  exhausted  and 
is  left  behind,  51 ; shortly  afterward 
killed  by  lions,  53 ; the  travelers  lay  in 
a stock  of  mules’  flesh,  54 ; the  flesh  of, 
not  unpalatable,  56 ; worn  out,  61 ; 
three  killed  by  sickness,  67 ; escape, 
and  are  intercepted  at  Barmen,  130; 
again  make  off,  and  are  not  retaken,  ib. 

Mummies,  182. 

Mushrooms,  grow  on  the  sides  of  the 
nests  of  the  termites,  137. 

N. 

Naarip,  the,  a sterile  plain,  48,  51 ; trav- 
elers often  lose  their  way  on,  74 ; the 
Author’s  party  suffers  much  from  cold 
on,  76;  affords  a good  road,  84;  its 
pleasant  appearance  after  rains,  266. 

Naitjo,  an  Ovambo  man,  188. 

Nakong,  the,  a species  of  antelope,  431 ; 
description  of,  431-433. 

Namaqua  - land,  Great,  description  of, 
312 ; in  a geological  point  of  view,  313. 

Namaquas,  the,  their  character,  42,  43 ; 
their  astonishment  at  the  first  wagons 
they  saw,  43 ; treat  the  Damaras  very 
cruelly,  127;  usually  very  barbarous, 
129 ; their  respect  for  truth -tellers,  290 ; 
best  mode  of  behaving  toward,  ib. ; 
names  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Northern, 
315 ; their  habitations,  ib. ; their  relig- 
ious ideas,  316 ; their  superstitions  with 
regard  to  the  hare,  317  ; have  great 
faith  in  sorcery,  318 ; their  neglect  of 
widows,  and  cruel  treatment  of  old  and 
disabled  persons,  322;  their  custom  of 
adopting  fathers  and  mothers,  ib. ; per- 
sonal adornment,  323 ; excessively  idle, 
ib.  ; understand  the  art • of  distilling 
spirits,  324;  attack  Richterfeldt,  339; 
ill-treat  the  missionaries,  ib. 

Nangoro,  king  of  the  Ovambo,  165 ; as- 
sists a Damara  chief,  169 ; a messenger 
sent  to,  186;  interview  Avith,  191 ; his 
personal  appearance,  ib. ; his  wives, 
198. 

Naras,  the,  a delicious  fruit,  27 ; its  ben- 
eficial qualities,  38;  where  found,  ib. 

Ngami,  the  Lake,  preparations  for  nav- 
igating, 22 ; failure  of  Mr.  Galton  and 
the  Author  to  reach  it,  234;  the  Au- 
thor resolves  to  make  another  attempt, 
236;  first  appearance  of,  416;  arrival 
at,  417;  first  information  received  by 


Europeans  respecting,  423 ; different 
names  by  which  it  is  known  among  the 
natives,  424;  description  of,  ib. ; Mr. 
Green’ s description  of,  425 ; its  shores, 
ib. ; must  have  undergone  very  consid- 
erable changes  at  different  periods, 
426 ; the  Author  navigates,  ib.  ; fed  by 
the  River  Teoge,  427 ; finds  an  outlet 
at  its  eastern  extremity  in  the  Zouga, 
428 ; a great  variety  of  animals  found 
in  its  neighborhood,  431 ; hippopotami 
abound  on  the  northern  side  of,  434; 
swarms  with  crocodiles,  435;  snakes 
numerous  on  the  shores,  435,  436 ; fish, 
436 ; departure  from,  507. 

Nosop,  the  river,  353. 

O. 

Obesity  equivalent  to  high  treason  among 
certain  African  tribes,  191. 

Oerlams,  a branch  of  the  Hottentot  race, 
314. 

Okamabuti,  the  residence  of  the  Damara 
chief  Tjopopa,  168 ; the  northern  limit 
of  Damara-land,  169 ; rank  vegetation 
at,  176. 

Omanbonde,  Lake,  Mr.  Galton  hears  of, 
111 ; surmises  respecting  its  extent, 
158;  Mr.  Galton’s  party  makes  prep- 
aration for  spending  some  time  on  its 
shores,  160;  arrival  at,  161;  its  insig- 
nificance ib. ; visited  by  hippopotami, 
ib. ; departure  from,  166. 

Omatako,  141;  its  beautiful  appearance, 
ib. ; the  river  of,  143. 

Ombotodthu,  a mountain,  149  ; remarka- 
ble for  its  peculiar  red  stone,  150. 

Ommutenna,  a tributary  to  the  Swakop, 
61,  114. 

Omoroanga  Vavarra,  the,  a branch  of  the 
Teoge,  473. 

Omugunde,  the  chief  of  a tribe  of  Dama- 
ras, 147 ; slays  several  of  Kahichen^’s 
children,  and  keeps  the  others  prison- 
ers, 148. 

Omukuru,  the  chief  deity  of  the  Dama- 
ras, 218. 

Omumborombonga,  a tree,  the  supposed 
progenitor  of  the  Damaras,  215. 

Omuramba-k’  Omatako,  a periodical  riv- 
er, 208;  supposed  to  flow  toward  the 
Bechuana  country,  209. 

Omurangere,  the  holy  fire  of  the  Dama- 
ras, 220. 

Omutjamatunda,  a cattle-post  belonging 
to  the  Ovambo,  1S3;  a copious  fount- 
ain, 184;  ducks  and  grouse  numerous 
there,  ib. 

Omuvereoom,  the,  a mountain,  144;  dis- 
tance betAveen  it  and  Omatako,  153; 
arrival  at  the  southern  extremity  of, 
155;  extensive  view  from  its  summit, 
157. 

Onanis,  the  residence  of  a kraal  of  very 
poor  Hill-Damaras,  89;  fine  pastur- 
ages, 91 ; troops  of  lions  seen  at,  267. 

Ondangere,  the  vestal  virgin  of  the  Da- 
maras, 220, 


518 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Ondara,  the,  a species  of  serpent,  291 ; 
story  of  one,  ib. 

Ondonga,  the  country  of  the  Ovambo, 
186 ; arrival  in,  ib. ; water  and  pastur- 
age scarce,  189 ; departure  from,  206. 

Onesimus,  Zwartbooi’s  henchman,  joins 
the  Author’s  party,  140;  is  flogged, 
863. 

Ongeama,  native  name  for  lion,  114 ; 
cries  of,  178. 

Onguirira,  a species  of  animal  resem- 
bling, but  totally  distinct  from,  the 
lion,  153. 

Ophthalmia,  the  Author  attacked  by,  281. 

Orange  River,  the,  description  of,  310. 

Oranges,  a feast  of,  331. 

Orukumb’  ombura,  4 ‘ rain  - beggars,”  the 
name  given  by  the  Damaras  to  col- 
umns of  sand  driven  along  by  the  wind, 
217. 

Oryx,  the  death  of  one,  123 ; the  Dama- 
ras feast  on  it,  124 ; description  of,  273. 

Ostrich,  the,  omelet  of  the  eggs,  60 ; the 
egg  equal  to  twenty-four  of  the  com- 
mon fowl,  ib. ; numerous  on  the  Naa- 
rip  plain,  247 ; chase  and  capture  of 
part  of  a brood  of  young  ones,  248  ; in- 
teresting manoeuvre  of  a parent  ostrich, 
ib.  ; districts  in  which  found,  250 ; 
types  in  other  parts  of  the  world,  ib. ; 
general  appearance,  ib.  ; its  cry  great- 
ly resembles  that  of  the  lion,  251 ; its 
marvelous  speed,  ib. ; food,  ib. ; power 
of  enduring  thirst,  252  ; season  for 
breeding,  ib.  ; period  of  incubation, 
253 ; a peculiarity  in  regard  to  the  eggs 
of  the  ostrich,  254;  nature  of  the  cov- 
ering of  the  young  birds,  ib. ; the  flesh 
of  the  young  ostrich  palatable,  ib. ; in 
estimation  with  the  ancient  Romans  as 
an  article  of  food,  255 ; uses  to  which 
the  ecrg-shells  are  applied,  256 ; ostrich 
feathers,  ib. ; the  ostrich  in  a wild 
state,  258;  its  powers  of  digestion,  259; 
resemblance  to  quadrupeds,  ib.  ; modes 
in  which  it  is  captured,  262. 

Os'well,  Mr.,  his  chase  of  a rhinoceros, 
382. 

Otjihako-tja-Muteya,  186 ; sufferings  from 
cold  on,  207. 

Otjikango,  the,  name  of  a series  of  wells, 
172,  179. 

Otjikoto  fountain,  180 ; a wonderful  freak 
of  nature,  181 ; its  remarkable  cavern, 
ib. ; visited  by  a great  number  of  doves, 
182;  Bushmen  reside  near  to  it,  ib. 

Otjironjuba  Fountain,  156 ; departure 
from,  158. 

Otjombindd,  283. 

Otjruru,  an  apparition,  219. 

Otters,  not  uncommon  in  Lake  Ngami, 
434. 

Ovaherero,  the,  their  mode  of  using  to- 
bacco, 90;  tip  their  arrows  with  the 
poison  of  euphorbia  candelabrum,  91. 

Ovambo,  the,  a people  of  Africa,  165; 
first  interview  with,  172;  their  food, 
173;  arms,  174;  effect  of  fireworks  on, 


192 ; musical  instruments  in  use  among, 
193;  their  personal  appearance,  194; 
their  strict  honesty,  196 ; no  pauperism 
in  their  country,  ib. ; their  national 
pride,  ib. ; hospitality,  197 ; staple  food, 
ib. ; morality  among,  198 ; state  of  re- 
ligion among,  ib. ; their  dwellings,  201 ; 
domestic  animals,  ib. ; farm  imple- 
ments, 202;  their  chief  articles  of  ex- 
port, ib. ; have  some  slight  knowledge 
of  metallurgy,  203. 

Ovapangari,  the,  an  African  tribe,  205, 
485. 

Oxen,  invaluable  in  South  Africa,  44; 
method  of  breaking  in,  45 ; one  charges 
Mr.  Galton,  47 ; manner  of  guiding  a 
saddle-ox,  71 ; can  be  made  to  travel  at 
a pretty  quick  pace,  ib. ; training  for 
the  yoke,  77 ; vicious  one  ridden  by 
Mr.  Schoneberg,  102 ; become  wild  and 
unmanageable  from  their  over -long 
rest,  123 ; several  stolen  from  Mr.  Gal- 
ton’s  party,  148;  extraordinary  confu- 
sion among,  and  the  cause  of  it,  212 ; 
curious  custom  when  an  ox  dies  at  a 
chiefs  werft  in  Damara-land,  220; 
their  instinctive  power  of  catching  the 
scent  of  humid  winds  and  green  herb- 
age at  a great  distance,  240;  instance 
of  affection  between  two,  268;  Author’s 
adventure  with  a runaway,  270;  the 
Author  has  an  ugly  fall  from  one,  288  ; 
superstition  that  they  refrain  from  eat- 
ing on  Christmas-eve,  307  ; the  Damara 
breed  of,  ib. ; the  Bechuana  breed  of, 
308 ; the  Namaqua  breed  of,  324. 

P. 

Palm-trees,  a large  number  seen,  166; 
description  of  a peculiar  kind  of  fan- 
palm,  ib.  ; fruit  of  the,  ib.,  188. 

Parrots,  crested,  57,  59. 

Pelicans,  77 ; curious  mode  of  flight,  ib. 

Phenomenon,  143. 

Phillippus,  a Damara,  joins  the  Author’s 
party  as  a wagon -driver,  140. 

Pichos,  the  (or  Parliaments),  of  the  Bato- 
anas,  437. 

Pitfalls  for  the  capture  of  game,  362. 

Polygamy,  198,  222,  321,  448,  479. 

Population  of  the  Ovambo  country  esti- 
mated, 189. 

Portuguese,  183. 

Puff-adder,  the,  294 ; its  manner  of  seiz- 
ing its  prey,  ib. 

R. 

Rain-maker,  the  Bahurutsi,  442  ; murder- 
ed among  the  Bauangketsi  nation,  447. 

Rains,  the,  begin  as  early  as  September 
and  October,  125. 

Rath,  Mr.,  61,  109,  121;  his  description 
of  the  track  of  a nondescript  animal, 
133. 

Rehoboth,  a Rhenish  missionary  station, 
139,  281 ; description  of,  286 ; the  rocks 
in  its  neighborhood  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  copper,  349. 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


519 


Religion,  198. 

Reptiles,  numerous  in  Damara-land  and 
Namaqua-land,  293;  superstitions  re- 
specting, 294 ; antidotes  used  in  South- 
ern Africa  for  the  bites  of,  295. 

Rhinoceros,  the,  curious  anecdote  pre- 
served in  the  archives  of  Cape-Town 
relating  to  a death  of  one,  26;  Mr. 
Barn’s  story  of  his  wonderful  escape 
from  one,  49,  50 ; tracks  of,  49 ; one 
shot,  72 ; fall  frequently  on  their  knees 
when  killed,  73;  curious  anecdote,  ib. ; 
flesh  not  unpalatable,  ib. ; hide  useful, 
ib. ; discovery  of  a,  84;  adventure  in 
pursuit  of  one,  85 ; its  escape,  86,  87 ; 
combat  between  elephant  and,  164 ; 
several  shot  at  Ghanze,  369;  where 
found,  370 ; four  distinct  species  known 
to  exist  in  South  Africa,  371 ; distinc- 
tions between  the  black  and  the  white 
rhinoceros,  373;  appearance  of,  374; 
food,  375;  breeding,  376 ; Colonel  Will- 
iams’s story  respecting  one,  377,  878; 
conflicts  with  elephants,  878 ; the  flesh 
and  horns,  380 ; adventure  with  a black 
rhinoceros  at  Kobis,  899 ; with  a white 
one,  400;  the  Author  shoots  a white 
one,  407 ; desperate  adventure  with  a 
black  one,  407,  408 ; method  of  chasing, 
381 ; Mr.  Oswell’s  stories  respecting  the 
chase  of,  382. 

Richterfeldt,  a Rhenish  missionary  sta- 
tion, reached,  61 ; water  abundant,  ib. ; 
soil  fertile,  ib. ; when  founded,  62 ; re- 
turn to,  95  ; bid  a final  farewell  to,  123. 

Rifle,  obtained  in  barter,  150;  excellent 
weapon,  ib. 

Rights  of  succession,  198,  222,  225. 

Ringel-hals,  the,  or  ring-throat,  a species 
of  snake,  294. 

Roode  Natie,  the  (or  Red  Nation),  a pow- 
erful tribe  of  Namaquas,  279;  their 
character,  280 ; Cornelius,  their  chief, 
ib. ; their  country,  281 ; few  Damara 
slaves  among  them,  ib. 

S. 

Salt-lick,  a,  366. 

Sand  Fountain,  excursion  to,  34 ; badness 
of  its  water,  35 ; its  disagreeable  guests, 
36 ; its  advantages,  37 ; general  aspect 
of  the  country  in  the  neighborhood  of, 

Sand-wells,  365. 

Scarlet  flower,  the,  emotions  on  first  see- 
ing, 48 ; observe  it  again,  49. 

Scenery,  striking,  170. 

Schaap-steker,  the,  a species  of  snake, 
294. 

Scheppmansdorf,  Mr.  Galton  arrives  at, 
40 ; all  the  baggage  safely  deposited  at, 
41 ; description  of,  ib. ; first  impres- 
sions of,  76;  kind  friends  at,  77 ; de- 
parture from,  83. 

Scheppman’s  Mountain,  origin  of  its 
name,  103. 

Schmelen,  Mr. , a highly-gifted  and  enter- 
prising missionary,  127. 


SchmClen’s  Hope,  its  situation,  126;  ori- 
gin of  its  name,  127;  agreeable  resi- 
dence; abundance  of  game  to  be  ob- 
tained there,  135 ; departure  from,  146 ; 
return  to,  214. 

Schoneberg,  Mr.,  101;  his  mishap,  102; 
his  wailing,  103. 

Scorpions,  a swarm  of,  105;  their  fond- 
ness of  warmth,  ib.  ; their  bite  poison- 
ous, but  rarely  fatal,  ib. 

Season,  the  rainy,  in  Ovambo-land,  201 ; 
in  Damara-land,  217. 

Sebetoane,  an  African  chief,  false  report 
respecting,  414. 

Serpent,  tracks  of  an  immense  (the  On- 
dara),  290 ; story  of  a,  291. 

Serpent-stones,  297. 

Servants,  described,  78-83 ; African  trav- 
elers can  not  be  too  particular  in  the 
selection  of,  79;  become  refractory,  125; 
adventure  of  one  of  them  with  an  ox, 
270 ; Damara  servants  abscond,  355. 

Shambok,  the,  73,  74. 

Shrike,  a species  of,  78 ; superstitious  be- 
lief respecting,  ib. 

Smith,  Dr.  Andrew,  213,  491. 

Snake,  a curious  species  of,  292 ; several 
species  occasionally  met  with  in  Da- 
mara-land and  Namaqua-land,  294; 
antidotes  for  the  bites  of,  295 ; numer- 
ous in  and  about  Lake  Ngami,  485,  436. 

Snake-stone,  the,  298. 

Snuff,  manner  in  which  the  Bechuanas 
manufacture,  458. 

Spring,  hot,  at  Barmen,  108 ; at  Eikhams, 
280;  at  Rehoboth,  286. 

“ Spring,”  Author’s  ride-ox,  71. 

Spuig-slang,  the,  or  spitting-snake,  294. 

St.  Helena,  John,  officiates  as  head  wag- 
oner, 80 ; his  extraordinary  disposition, 
ib. ; discourses  on  ghosts,  331. 

Steinbok,  the,  a young  one  taken  and 
reared,  130 ; its  tragic  end,  131. 

Stewardson,  Mr.,  45. 

Stink-hout,  a species  of  oak,  170. 

Sugar-cane,  supposed  to  exist  in  many 
parts  of  Southern  Africa,  188. 

Sun -stroke,  Author  receives  one,  58 ; us- 
ual results  of  a,  ib. ; the  Author  in  dan- 
ger of  a second,  88. 

Sunrise,  the,  in  the  tropics,  51 ; often  fol- 
lowed by  intense  heat,  and  suffering.; 
thereon,  ib. ; a mule  left  behind,  ib. 

Superstition,  a,  with  regard  to  oxen,  152. 

Swakop,  the,  first  appearance  of,  49;  its 
cheerful  aspect,  ib. ; the  Author’s  party 
attacked  by  two  lions  on  the  bank  of, 
93 ; the  Damaras  flock  with  their  cattle 
to,  241. 

T. 

Table  Mountain,  25;  ascent  by  the  Au- 
thor of,  ib. 

Tans  Mountain,  348, 

Tent,  the  Author’s,  takes  fire,  299. 

Teoge,  the  River,  feeds  Lake  Ngami,  427 ; 
scenery  along  the  banks  of,  460 ; croco- 
diles observed  on,  471. 


520 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Termites,  the,  Schmelen’s  Hope  swarms 
with,  136 ; their  method  of  constructing 
their  nests,  ib. ; encampment  in  the 
middle  of  a nest  of,  145 ; instances  of 
the  fearful  ravages  they  are  capable  of 
committing  in  an  incredibly-short  space 
of  time,  155. 

Textor  erythorhynchus , a parasitical  in- 
sect-feeding bird,  213. 

Thirst,  suffering  from,  52;  water  not 
quenching  thirst,  ib. 

Thorn  coppices,  182. 

Thunder-storm,  a,  in  the  tropics,  107, 141, 
352. 

Tiger-wolf  (or  spotted  hyaena),  369. 

Timbo,  a native  of  Mazapa,  81;  carried 
into  captivity  by  Caffres,  ib. ; sold  as  a 
slave  to  the  Portuguese,  82;  liberated 
by  an  English  cruiser,  ib. ; his  faithless 
spouse,  ib. ; his  good  qualities,  ib. ; his 
love  of  (native)  country,  83  ; friendship 
between  him  and  George  Bonfield,  836 ; 
turns  sulky,  852 ; the  Author  sends  him 
to  Lake  Ngami,  393 ; his  return,  402. 

Tineas,  the  mountain,  52 ; great  strong- 
hold and  breeding-place  of  lions,  ib. 

Tineas,  the  River,  84. 

Tjobis,  a river  and  tributary  to  the  Swa- 
kop,  59. 

Tjobis  Fountain,  arrive  at,  60,  93;  de- 
part from,  61,  93. 

Tjopopa,  a great  chief  of  the  Damaras, 
168 ; reach  his  werft,  169 ; his  charac- 
ter, ib. ; death  of  his  mother,  176;  his 
idleness  and  fondness  for  tobacco,  ib. ; 
sensuality,  177 ; leaves  Okamabuti, 
207. 

Tobacco,  great  size  of  leaves  of,  110 ; the 
Ovambo  cultivate  it,  189;  buy  sheep 
for,  208. 

Topnaars,  a branch  of  the  Hottentot 
tribe,  314. 

Toucans,  59. 

Trans-vaal  River,  the,  rumors  respecting 
the  churlish  conduct  of  the  Boers  on, 
27. 

Traveling  by  day  injurious,  58,  61;  by 
night  preferable,  but  dangerous,  84; 
difficulties  of  African,  160. 

Trees,  bearing  an  apple-looking  fruit, 
176,  189;  enormous  sized,  ib. 

Tsetse  fly,  the,  where  chiefly  found,  468 ; 
description  of,  469 ; poisonous  nature 
of  its  bite,  ib. ; result  of  Captain  Var- 
don’s  experiment  on,  470;  Mr.  Oswell’s 
examination  of  oxen  bitten  by,  471; 
wild  animals  unaffected  by  the  poison 
of,  ib. 

Tunobis,  233  ; days  profitably  and  pleas- 
antly passed  there,  235 ; immense  quan- 
tity of  game  in  the  neighborhood  of,  ib.; 
the  Author's  misadventure  at,  360. 

Twass,  the  head-quarters  of  the  Namaqua 
chief  Lambert,  355. 

U. 

Usab,  the,  a striking  gorge,  we  arrive  at, 


V. 

“Venus,”  a small  half-breed  dog,  her 
combat  with  a rhinoceros,  391;  great 
sagacity  of,  ib. 

Voet-gangers  ( vide  larvse). 

Vollmer,  Mr.,  139,  286. 

W. 

W aggoner,  J ohn,  his  sulkiness  and  reluc- 
tance to  work,  79;  dismissed  at  Bar- 
men, 125;  his  subsequent  dishonest  ca- 
reer, 139. 

Wagons,  the,  fifteen  hundred  weight  a 
good  load  for,  78  ; accident  to,  170. 

Wait-a-bit  thorn,  the,  156;  great  strength 
of  its  prickles,  ib. ; excessively  trouble- 
some, 367,  413,  415. 

Walfisch  Bay,  the  Author’s  party  advised 
to  select  this  place  as  a starting-point 
for  their  journey  into  the  interior,  28; 
arrival  at  the  entrance  of,  29;  appear- 
ance of  the  coast  as  seen  from,  ib. ; de- 
scription of,  30 ; trading  establishments 
there,  ib.  ; frequented  by  immense 
numbers  of  water-fowl,  31 : outrageous 
conduct  of  the  crews  of  whaling  and 
guano  ships  visiting,  248;  extroardi- 
nary  number  of  dead  fish  in,  245 ; the 
Author’s  second  visit  to,  339. 

Water,  difficulty  of  obtaining,  306,  387. 

Water-courses,  the  periodical,  afford  the 
only  really  practicable  roads,  124. 

i Wenzel,  Abraham,  79 ; his  thievish  hab- 
its, ib. ; dismissed  at  Schmelen’s  Hope, 
140. 

Whirlwinds,  217. 

Williams,  John,  results  of  his  careless- 
ness, 80. 

Willow-tree,  the,  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Omuvereoom,  155. 

Witch-doctor,  the  Namaqua,  318. 

Witchcraft,  Damaras  have  great  faith  in, 
219;  the  Bechuanas  have  great  faith 
in,  442. 

“Wolf,”  114. 

Wolves,  or  hyaenas,  131. 

Women,  Ovambo,  194;  Damara,  221; 
Bayeye,  480. 

Z. 

Zebra,  melancholy  wail  of  the,  88;  the 
Author  shoots  one,  102;  its  flesh  not 
very  palatable,  ib. ; a lion  mistaken  for 
one,  112  ; the  Author  shoots  one,  142. 

Zouga,  a river  which  flows  out  of  Lake 
Ngami,  403;  runs  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion from  Lake  Ngami  for  a distance 
of  about  three  hundred  miles,  428;  veg- 
etation along  its  course  varied  and  lux- 
uriant, ib. 

Zwartbooi,  William,  a Namaqua  chief- 
tain, 137;  relations  between  Jonker 
Afrikaner,  and,  ib. ; his  territory,  188 ; 
assists  us  with  servants,  140. 

Zwart  Nosop,  many  pitfalls  for  game  con- 
structed in  the  neighborhood  of,  238. 

Zwart-slang,  the,  or  black  snake,  294,  295. 


LATIN  INDEX. 


521 


LATIN  INDEX. 


Acacia  giraffe,  42, 104. 

Aigocerus  ellipsiprymnus,  431. 
Amadina  squamif'rons,  213. 
Behemot  Jobi,  487. 

Buphaga  Africana,  212. 

Canis  mesomelas,  278. 

Chizoerhis  concolor,  59. 

Columber  canus,  294. 

Croton,  323. 

Diosma,  323. 

Euphorbia  candelabrum,  91,  176. 
Felis  caracal,  135. 

Francolinus  adspersus,  50. 

Glossina  morsitans,  468. 

Gryllas  devastator,  281. 

Harelda  glacialis,  32. 
Hippopotamus  amphibius,  488,  489. 

“ Liberiencis,  488. 

Holcus  Caffrorum,  173. 

Hyrax  Capensis,  291. 

Lanius  subcoronatus,  78. 


Loxia  socia,  104. 

Naia  haje,  294. 

Oryx  Capensis,  272. 

“ beisa,  272. 

“ leucoryx,  272. 

Otis  kori,  135. 

Processus  mamillaris,  495. 

Python  Natalensis,  290. 

Quercus  Africana,  170. 

Rhinoceris  bicornis,  372,  373. 

“ “ Sumatrensis,  370. 

“ Indicus,  370. 

“ Keitloa,  372,  376. 

“ Oswellii,  372. 

u simus,  372,  373,  374. 

“ Sondaicus,  370. 

Textor  erythrorhynchus,  218. 
Tragelaphus  Angasii,  433. 

“ eurycerus,  433. 
Trimerorhinus  rhombeatus,  294. 
Yipera  inflata,  294. 


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